(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?

By Pinballgeek

6 years ago

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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by sawbill
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#113 4 years ago

Hi guys!

Since saturday, I'm the proud owner of an early production Diner. I'm very happy. Everything works and it's in wonderful shape.

Got a few questions about the game:

Mine as yellow legs and have longer legs at the back. It this normal? One of the few sample with those specs? Or just a mismatch with custom color?

Mine also has a center post betwwen flippers and the wire railing behind the flippers are down to the playfield instead of raised up. Again, someone else has that? This looks totally factory and guessing it's a sample feature but I know not every sample has those. Anyone else got that?

Here's a few pics the seller sent me before I buy. And yes, the glass is scratched as hell

IMG_20150410_143756 1.jpg

#115 4 years ago

It is a repro yes. And the color is off, it's kinda pink instead of orange.

Not sure where the guy told me it was from. He ordered 2 and I have 1 more spare + the original broken.

Good eye

1 month later
#118 4 years ago

Hey All,

I'm about to replace my posts rubber sleeves and can't decide on a color. Blue, yellow red, orange?

Can some of you with custom color can post pictures to help me out on my decision?


P.S. I kinda saw yellow on Cliff website but I'd like more views

#122 4 years ago

Actually, I already ordered from Cliff, lite blue rubber sleeves. I think it will complement the other blue accent well. I'll post pictures when installed. I thought about white but it gets dirty faster...

I also ordered the right ramp protector to keep it intact and a slot protector for the left ramp/ right inlane drop.

#123 4 years ago
Quoted from SSrig:

Miss Diner! Had 2 different ones over the years. This is from my everything needs a topper phase

Can't afford toppers, my basement ceiling's too low! I wonder what I'll do when I get the coveted Taxi or Whitewater.

#127 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

and my coffee cup is as clear as a bell!!Peace

Who's thinking about replacing their Coffee Cup for a new one? Who did it? Worth the price tag? 60$ cup + 25$ decals + shipping will set me back more than 100$ here in Canada. Mine is pretty yellowed but still it's only cosmetic.

I'm about to get a big order from Marco and wondering if I should pick up one...

Some you you with a new cup can show me pictures to see the difference?

#129 4 years ago
Quoted from kungfucop:

You should try some peroxide. May be cheaper than a new cup.
Then you would only need the decals unless you can salvage your existing one.

Yes, I just got a hold of that thread! Will try!!!! I'll try to salvage the decal as well, worst case I get new one from BAA at 16$.

We'll keep you posted!

#133 4 years ago

Question about the game rules:

Whenever I enable multiball, rush or dine time, all I got to do is enter the top eject hole to complete "release", rush1 or dine time, without going through the spinner first which should be the correct shot.

For example, I'll shot "special" and the auto kicker will then shoot around to the top eject hole and complete the shot. Same with multiball, if a ball re-enters the top eject hole after being ejected, it will count as "rush1".

Should the game register the ball going through the spinner first?

How does it play for you guys? I know there is a game setting for the top eject that does something about that but I'm "factory" so I assume it should not be this way...

#135 4 years ago

I found my answer. The setting I was talking about, "eject hole award", does that. By default it does not require to go through the spinner to get the shot.

I'm wondering why it's ON by default.

#136 4 years ago

how do you remove the coffee cup? I can't seem to remove the backboard without the cup and vice versa. Do I need to remove the left ramp as well?

1 week later
#142 4 years ago

I got my Coffee cup out and tried retrobrite without success. Clear plastic won't get unyellowed. I'm ordering a new cup as everything is apart now. Would be silly to re-install this old one. I'm looking forward to put everything back together and play...

#144 4 years ago

Soaked the cup in hydrogen peroxide for 5 days under both the sun and UV light without success...

#148 4 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

That's incredible. Answer me this, is your ramp smooth/flat on the bottom? Mine is slightly humped up in the middle, and I am wondering if it was warped by flame polishing. I can occasionally get 3M+, but it is rare. Game is set up perfectly, flippers are solid, etc.

About 33% of the time, when I get a strong hit into the right ramp, the ball will get "stuck" on the switch gate (about 4" from the bottom) and roll/bounce back onto the playflield. Like if there was not enough room for the ball to get through the gate. But there is plenty. Wondering if the ball gets slightly airborne and jam in the gate. Any of you have this problem?

#149 4 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

There's a guy in Australia who does 3d printed parts and mods; my brother had him make a mesh weave for the satellite dish in "Goldeneye" and it fit perfectly. I've been thinking of having that guy make a replacement cup in porcelain white, so that it actually looks like what's it's supposed to be. I know, it would be sacrificing some of the flashers, but apart from that I think it could look really nice. Probably expensive but a cool mod.

I ordered a new repro finally. After removing a bunch of things to get to the cup, I though it would be silly to leave that old yellowed one in place. I get Mof about how his Diner look "vintage" but mine is actually very very clean and a new cup will look great.

#150 4 years ago

Ordered a bunch of new parts for my Diner. Even if those cost only a few bucks the total ramp up pretty quickly. With new legs and coffee cup, got for about 250$ on new hardware to put in. Looking forward to it

3 weeks later
#155 4 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

My right ramp is smooth and gradual to the junction ,and into the cup! Mine has the diamond play field,and clear metal habitrails,not yellow,no post in the middle of my flippers either!

Mmmm, weird. DP playfield yet chrome habitrail... What's the production number?

#156 4 years ago
Quoted from BR80:

Figured this T-Nut Map might be useful for somebody down the road. I've got a Diner restore underway and made this up before sending out the playfield for touch-ups.

Thanks for that! Your playfield will need quite a bit of work. We can clearly see where there is the most ball action. Mine have very slight wear to certain area (above the "E" from the eat lane) and I can see why now looking at yours.

I don't know how many plays difference there are between yours and mine but I can only think the Diamond Plated playfields hold on way better.

#157 4 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Thanks for that! Your playfield will need quite a bit of work. We can clearly see where there is the most ball action. Mine have very slight wear to certain area (above the "E" from the eat lane) and I can see why now looking at yours.
I don't know how many plays difference there are between yours and mine but I can only think the Diamond Plated playfields hold on way better.

Quoted from Plumonium:

Thanks for that! Your playfield will need quite a bit of work. We can clearly see where there is the most ball action. Mine have very slight wear to certain area (above the "E/A" from the eat lane) and I can see why now looking at yours.
I don't know how many plays difference there are between yours and mine but I can only think the Diamond Plated playfields hold on way better.

1 week later
#158 4 years ago

Hi there,

I'm restoring my Diner and messed up 2 plastics. I'm wondering if you got a new set of plastics and would be willing to sell me your old ones. They are the plastics that goes underneath the left side of the right ramp. See image below

Thanks a lot, please get in touch!


#160 4 years ago
Quoted from pinfanatic:

Since saturday, I'm the proud owner of an early production Diner.

Well done! Do you have a few pictures? What is the overall condition?

1 week later
#163 4 years ago

Initially, all I wanted is to try to clean-up my Coffee Cup. Removed a few parts, took off some ramps, cleaned here and there, started making a shopping list... Now, I'm 400$ of parts in and took almost everything apart inside out, cleaning, repainting, replacing a whole lots of parts...

Haven't played a game for a few months now, waiting on my damn "back order" new coffee cup... God I look forward to finish it and play again. I said it before, it's gonna looks glorious.

2 weeks later
#170 4 years ago

Congrats and welcome!

3 weeks later
#180 4 years ago

Hey guys, I need some advice here...

I'm in the middle of a extensive clean up job for my Diner. Actually, I'm pretty much done except I'm waiting for the god damn coffee cup repro to be available again... So my game has been in pieces for 4 months now and I can't stand it anymore. I got to play.

My dilemma is: keep waiting so I put it back together only when I get the new cup. Or, put it back together now with my old yellowed cup and once it gets available again disable and re-assemble again...

ALL I wanted to do initially was to replace the yellowed cup, that was the ONLY reason I took my game apart. Now, replaced a shit load of part on it but considering putting it back together without having done what I aimed for. It's kinda silly...

What you guys would do?

#183 4 years ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

I would forget about that repro cup and read this thread thoroughly, then transform your old cup back into a next to new one....
I´ve tried the method and it works wonders....

I tried retrobrite my cup in the first place. It did nothing.

Are you saying you actually retrobrite your cup or did it on some other plastic? I believe the cup is from another type of plastic and won't work.

#184 4 years ago
Quoted from sparkup:

May as well put it back together.
I went looking for a cup about 12mths ago and couldn't find any in stock then.

I'm talking with folks at Marco and Planetary and they both saying: "talked to the supplier, should have a few in a few weeks, really depends on the supplier..."

I really wanted a new one...

3 weeks later
#197 4 years ago

Hi all! After a few months, I'm finally done with my Diner. Please check out this link to dedicated thread


Here's a sneak peek.




1 week later
#201 4 years ago

They are sold out. Planetary Pinball Supply (PPS) will get some at some point. Reach out to them as I've been harassing them for some time now, may be they can expedit the process if more people want one.

#209 4 years ago

You LED shine very bright. Unlike mine which are still incandescent bulb for the diner letters and customers. That will make little defects stand out.


#211 4 years ago

Well, that's a huge decal for rectangular insert. I think this decal is meant to be a patch. Not a insert overlay, unless you manage to cut exactly what you need from the decal. Probably by removing the insert, cleaning it up from any ink, laying the decal face down and sticking the insert exactly where you need. Then cut around the insert for a nice flush insert overlay.

If you were to sand and clear the playfield, that big decal would work great though.

Only my 2 cents.

#213 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballgeek:

Where did you get the instruction cards from (mainly the free play one)

Were on the game when I bought it. No idea where they are coming from, never seen them before.

1 week later
#218 4 years ago

Pinfanatic, it's holding by a tiny Allen key screw through the spring assembly that attach to the coil plunger. https://flic.kr/p/zEqgDm, in the picture, bottom center next to the coil plunger with a spring around, the holder small end attach to the spring at the end of the plunger. The diverter goes through the holder larger end and is holding with Allen key.

Note that my spring is broken in the picture and had to replace it.

Paulywalnuts23, yes there is one, see: https://flic.kr/p/zq8BLW, same as the left side one I believe.

#219 4 years ago

Here you go



#222 4 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

Paulywalnuts23, yes there is one, see: https://flic.kr/p/zq8BLW, same as the left side one I believe.

I did!

#224 4 years ago

Np, cheers buddy!

2 weeks later
#230 4 years ago

Hey guys,

I will be putting my original Diner coffee cup up for sale, I found a new repro (the last one available on planet earth)

You can see it here, I can get you guys better pictures if interested. https://flic.kr/p/zFCitu

It's somewhat yellowed but clean and in perfect shape. Comes with the stickers. If you are in need of one, your's broken or cracked, that's a great contender.

PM and we can discuss pricing.


#232 4 years ago

Mine came all LED when I bought it. I switched the playfield GI back to incandescent.

2 weeks later
#245 4 years ago
Quoted from EricR:

These came on my game also. They look really good, perfectly integrated with the apron art. I can try asking the previous owner if he knows where they came from.

Yeah sure, I think other fellow Diner owner would like to know.

1 month later
#261 4 years ago

Looking good buddy, gotta love those new plastics

I'm telling you, Diner is hard to find (even more nice ones) and are getting a huge bump in value these days.

#262 4 years ago

oh yeah, don't forget to protect the right rollover inlane slot with a cliffy. This one gets abuse over time. I got a ramp protector for mine as well.

#269 4 years ago
Quoted from tstone:

Also, it's too bad the left ball drop is too high to be protected by a Cliffy. I put a small mylar patch on the left one to protect against additional damage.

The left drop does not get as much action depending on your gameplay strategy.

#273 4 years ago
Quoted from tstone:

Same could be said of the right...

Well, it's a wise strategy to hit the left ramp in loop early in the game to go get that xball and max out the Dine Time value.

#277 4 years ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

Can anyone chime in on the repro Diner Coffee Cup ramps they've bought?

I recently got one from PPS as well, Did not installed yet. It is definitely not as clear as I would have hoped but better than the original that was there. I guess that's it? I can post a picture later.

#279 4 years ago

I'm wondering what PPS thinks of that?

#281 4 years ago

yeah they are very cloudy that's the problem. My original is clearer but yellowed...

#287 4 years ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

Well, after a more than a few 3+ hour nights after my day job I'm pretty much finished with it! Still a few small details but nothing major. Not the toughest shop ever, but definitely some pain in the ass little things here and there. Not mention my first PF swap. Here's a few final pics...

Hey man, where did you get that cup? Seems pretty clear to me.

#290 4 years ago

Oh wow. OK!

1 month later
#302 4 years ago

Heys guys, finally took the time and replaced my yellowed cup. It just sucks to take apart a perfectly working game for something just esthetic. I can say I'm done now and I must admit, Diner is my favourite game I think.



1 month later
#332 3 years ago

In the video, I also feel the cup is sitting pretty flat. Nothing seems to take away any momentum from the ball, it just goes around forever. On mine, it slows down pretty quickly I feel.

#342 3 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Where did you get that?! All the places I've looked say "SOLD OUT".

Got a left over from PPS a while back.

#343 3 years ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

Also my knocker doesn't sound off for an extra ball even though it works fine in test mode. Any ideas?

Diner does not knock for extra balls I believe.

#355 3 years ago
Quoted from jasonp:

I have a Diner question ... My early sample game ( Yellow ramp / Dimond plate ) doesn't make the scratched record sound when I launch the ball. Anyone know of any other differences on the sample games?

Got the same as you and I get the scratched record sound when I plunge.

May be a different sound rom?

3 weeks later
#363 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Does anybody here have pictures of the back area of the Diner PF? All the area behind the cup? I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

Check out this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-issue-diner#post-1835483

#366 3 years ago

It should only come on on third ball if you made very low score on your first 2 balls. I don't know what the low score is but I bet it is very low since I never got them lit if I remember.

Since I usually get the 150 000 jukebox skillshot, that's pretty much 450 000 free. If the low score is any lower than than hitting max skillshot will prevent to benefit from that setting.

Pinbot is setup like that and I will get the extra ball outlanes lit once in a while.

#367 3 years ago

Actually, according to pinball arcade rules, it says it's a 40 sec timer on your first 2 balls.


2 months later
#380 3 years ago

They are tiny Phillips flat head screws, don't know the size but tiny. Mine does not have the screws hlding the ramp to the cup but it's nt needed. The ramp sit tight and flat against the cup.

something like that.


1 week later
#389 3 years ago

I'm blowing the saucers/ramp down coil fuse and could use help diagnosing why.
It will play seemingly many games before this happens, and replacing the fuse temporarily fixes the issue.
It happens either on startup and I don't notice it, or it happens when the ball hits the first saucer lock on the skill shot past the jukebox. Either way, it sticks there and doesn't kick out.
Not sure what can cause intermittent fuse blowing in a coil, so your testing tips are most welcome. Thanks!

I had a similar issue with my Pinbot. The problem was the topper flashers + pop bumpers were drawing too many amps on the circuit. It is using a 4 amps slo-blow and it keeps blowing after a few plunge. I could have changed my topper flasher to LED but instead put in a 5 amps fuse and it solved it. I know I know, I should not have done that. Well, I spent lot of times troubleshooting it and found the circuit was peaking at around 5.5 amp for the time the flashers were going ON and the pops as well. Some said the 4 amps slo-blow should have held the peak but it did not, may be I had a bad set of fuses. The fuses were the single strand with the solder dot in the middle. I prefer the coil/spring ones design.

See if you can increase the fuse by 1 amp and if it fixes your problem. Some say it should only be a temp solution but hell of a good one... If not something is really drawing too much current most likely a short. that would need fixing. Check for pinched wires or lamp socket touching the kicker lugs or something. May be the lamp wire on the backboard.

You can test Amps with a DMM (min 10 amps) were the fuse goes. If you see it peak very high quickly remove it. If you see it peak just abobe the amp rating, try a slightly bigger fuse and cross your fingers.

Some says its normal for old electronics to draw more current since the conductivity is not as good as it used to be.

My 2 cents, I know nothing.

2 weeks later
#395 3 years ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

On another topic, I'm currently changing rubbers on my Diner, and I want to remove the top left ramp. I noticed that there is a switch wire is going directly through the ramp plastic and is not held by a Tierap like the other ramp.
Is there a way to remove it other than unwelding the switch and weld it back after?

This what mine looked like when I did my restoration. Yeah the switch goes through the ramp. But it disconnect from under the playfield (or the back board) fortunately.


#397 3 years ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

Nice, I'll have a look at all these pics. I'm doing the same to remember how to put it all back together.
So you put back the register before installing the ramps?
BTW: Tu a pris ou tes cards, sont vraiment cool!?

Yeah, don't need to remove the register to remove the ramps, or may be only the register but not the lift ramp. Definitely not the lift ramp.

I was asked a lot about the cards. One can be found on the internet (Free Play) but the rules a cannot find. They were on the game when I got it.

#400 3 years ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

BTW I found the rule card on the net too. It's the last Diner file on that page.

Well done!

#401 3 years ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

I've changed most of the rubbers and I was wondering; is there an error in the manual? They list 3x (C 1 1/4 rubbers) and only 1x (F 3 1/2 rubbers). I'm stuck with a "C" that I don't know what to do with.
Also, when you want to change LEDs in the jukebox and the EAT. Can you do it without removing the back box? I was able to acces the LED with the playfield half lifted. But was wondering if it was the way to go, since you don't really see what you do. It would be kind of bad if you need to remove everything to change one bulb...

I was too left with an extra rubber I believe, manual is wrong.

The backbox E-A-T letter and jukebox light sockets can be pulled out by raising the playfield slightly and holding it to create just enough space for your arm/hand to get in there.

1 week later
#403 3 years ago

FYI, elusive grill bonus plastic back in stock at Marco


1 week later
#405 3 years ago

I have my original coffee cup available if someone's broken or missing. It's yellowed as expected but comes with decals.

Just PM me.

#409 3 years ago

Yeah they were not that good and not a huge improvement.

#414 3 years ago

-Diner as somewhat long ball time (mine is an early production with the post between flippers so I guess it helps).

-Big scores are possible but you got to build your jackpot which adds replay value.

-I like it better than my Taxi (from same designer and similar in gameplay) and most of my family and friend also does. The theme is very friendly and appealing.

-Rules are not that deep (common or that era) but again need to build the jackpot.

-A few extra balls are available.

-Multiball is very hard to complete and can be challenging to get it to pay. Easy to start, hard to complete.

-Very exciting sound design. End of game high score music is awesome.

-Diner is raising in popularity and value.

My 2 cents!

#420 3 years ago

There might be the clock assembly on the back glass that is different and could use a test if its works properly.

#422 3 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

Can someone confirm whether Diner has ghosting issues.

Mine's ghosting.

1 week later
#426 3 years ago

Flash News: CPR is taking pre-order for Diner repro playfield.

2 weeks later
#437 3 years ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

I recently acquired a Diner. The lock shot only seems to stick about half the time - the rest of the time the ball goes on through and into the bumpers. Is this a common issue on Diner? Any suggested remedies?

Looking at the pictures I've taken from this part of the game, I don't see how the ball could go through the lock kick out hole and straight into the bumpers. May be your ball deflector is missing it's blue pad or is missing all together or twisted.


Actually, perhaps the wire guide is missing:

Capture (resized).JPG

#439 3 years ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Hmm, I was going from memory and it's been a few days since I saw this; it's possible that it's going into the EAT lanes rather than straight into the bumpers. In any case, the shot isn't staying in the lock about half the time. I will have to get in there and see what it looks like - thanks for the photo.

Sure shiffdog . The curved lane guide should bring the ball to the kick out hole. I don't see how it could go through in any way. The back left ramp assembly is not too bad to remove if I remember. Good luck and report back.

#443 3 years ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

Is it supposed to work that way?

Jukebox skill shot is awarded at any first switch it triggers. Either the kickout hole or any E-A-T lanes.

2 weeks later
#447 3 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Im getting ready to swap all the flashers over to led and was curios if they're all 89/906?

I think all playfields flashers are 906, not sure about the back box but most likely the same. Would it be easier to take a peek at your game?

2 weeks later
#451 3 years ago

My Diner made it into he last issue of Pinball Magazine (#4) featuring Mark Ritchie's games. Both the pictures from the playfield and the backglass. I love my Diner and it made her even more special

IMG_3485 (resized).JPG

3 weeks later
#455 3 years ago

Yes congrats. Nice cab, please take it away from the sunlight.

7 months later
#461 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

just got a diamond plate Diner yesterday. looks there's a hole or a mark at least for a center post. is it supposed to have one or what's the story?

Mine is an early production model (diamond plated and yellow habitrail) and YES it has a center post.

21932845818_aed9ed5120_h (resized).jpg

#487 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

want to mention (warn) that i may need some help putting this thing back together...

No worries!

1 week later
#495 2 years ago

My switch have a washer on each side to raise it. Everything else looks good.

image (resized).jpg

#498 2 years ago

My Diner has this same bracket. Really mysterious why... Ball hang ups?

No idea, I don't think it belongs anyway.

1 week later
#502 2 years ago
Quoted from branlon8:

hey all you Diner enthusiasts - I finally completed my Diner corner !

Well done. What is that at the front, stickers?

#506 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

my ramp-down started acting up tonight. the coil was firing, but i guess the catch wasn't dropping far enough to let the ramp-up holder tooth come back down. i cleaned off the mech with some naphtha. it's working again like it should. was wondering if you guys have to clean that off every once in awhile or is there a permanent fix for me?

These need to be adjusted just right. Just like Pinbot. You should be alright for a long time now.

#510 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

what are you supposed to do during multiball

1st ball through the spinner (rush 1), then the second ball in the "today's special" (rush 2). Then you do ramps for 500 000.

tip: Never collects the cup bonus so you are 2 shoots away of multiball. Start multiball through the spinner as much as possible before relying on Today's special to award multiball. Leave it for your 3rd ball because it's an easy shot.

3 weeks later
#512 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Bumping this random issue. It went away (seemingly) and then started happening again this weekend. These switches are not one the same row or column, so I'm thinking it's not a matrix issue. A short is a potential issue, but it's so random that I can't get it to happen at will.

You are 100% your switches do not need adjusting?

#519 2 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i had a ball the other night drain so hard it bounced down the ball trough to the staging area, so it never actually triggered the outhole switch and kicker. the game sat there playing music like i had a ball in play for a few seconds, then ended the ball. anything like that?
change of subject: how about tearing out the drop targets? i have new decals to install, but it doesn't look very easy. someone told me pull the e-clips, remove the opto board, then they just come out. does that sound right?

Exactly! Take this time to clean up everything and wax the targets for nice snappy sliding.

Quoted from weaverj:

you guys mylar the decals to protect them or anything?

I didn't and I wish I did. The red comes off a little bit when cleaning the target with novus2. Be gentle. so Yes extra protection never hurts.

5 months later
#564 2 years ago

Here's mine.

IMG_20180325_073837 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180325_073830 (resized).jpg

6 months later
#602 1 year ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

Long shot I know- but does anyone happen to have a non- yellowed coffee cup plastic be it gently used or Repro?

It depends what you mean by non-yellow. I have one, I replaced it by anew one. It's not bad, non-broken. Honestly, not sure it was worth the money. It's up for sale.

Do you have a picture of yours to compare?

Here's mine. Looks like a big difference but once in the game it's barely noticeable.

I should have flame polished my new cup before installing btw...

pasted_image (resized).png
#604 1 year ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Where on earth did you even find a new cup??

PPS about 3 years ago. I think it was hidden somewhere.

#609 1 year ago

We are low profile

#614 1 year ago
Quoted from BKos:

what the problem areas are that I should look into before purchasing.

Usual playfield wear around the top from the shooter lane exit to the eject hole. Broken clock on the backbox. Broken plastic over the center drop targets.

1 week later
#621 1 year ago

Enjoy your game buddy!

#624 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I mean it's not perfect but man what a good time!
[quoted image]

Nice looking game!

Terrible picture.

3 weeks later
#647 1 year ago
Quoted from Tanooki:

I'm looking to maybe joining the club on this game. I've got a hmo Pinbot with a bit of mylar bubbling and the back of the topper cracked I may trade locally for Diner, owner wants a little cash on top. This game when I've tried it simulated seems like a whole lot of fun with lots more to do, and appears to lack the really finicky precision things pb has with the vortex and stuff. Would you as current/past owners feel 450 with the trade decent? And if I do this, anything I should be aware of as far as maintenance goes beyond the basics (like pb is with the vortex and center motorized targets?)

I own both as well.

Diner is more rare, hard to find in some places and in good condition, it will fetch more money I think. Diner will become more collectable as some people love sys11.

As for gameplay. Pinbot is a far more difficult and punishing game. It's a more mature theme as well.

Diner is more family oriented and games last generally longer, at least for me. Rules are simpler I think. I like Pinbot road to multi-ball better than Diner which is hard to finish (spinner shot if tough in mine). Diner is a very pretty game. Diner music is great as well.

I owned both Diner and Taxi and I sold Taxi. I liked Diner better of the two in terms of gameplay. Taxi's music and callouts are tough to beat though.

#648 1 year ago
Quoted from Tanooki:

anything I should be aware of as far as maintenance goes beyond the basics

Make sure the cash register ramp goes up down correctly. Verify the diverter works on the right ramp to the cup. Make sure the clock works in the backglass. Check for broken plastic on center drop targets. Check for wear on the orbit out of the shooter lane on top of the game (orange part). And check for raised insert (especially the big customer ones in the middle)

#652 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Pinbot is sys 11

Sure but it easier to come by. So a sys11 collector is most likely to try and add Diner to his line up.

That was my line of thought.

4 weeks later
#656 1 year ago
Quoted from Leosac:

Two flashers in the upper left corner of the playfield aren’t lighting. They don’t work during the diagnostic testing. All the other flashers work.
I have replaced the bulbs so it’s not that.
Any suggestions of what to try next?

Did you verify the connector? Do you have power at the connector?

2 months later
#748 1 year ago
Quoted from SewerUrchin:

That deflector fail is hilarious.

That's gold!

2 weeks later
#754 1 year ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

so ive located the original coffee cup mold. trying to get it in my shop for repairs. might take some time but at least its not scrap.
working with PPS to get it moving.

Any pictures?

#755 1 year ago


Any of you guys with early version/sample game (DP playfield, yellow wireform) have a center post on their game?

I swear mine looks original... What's the story.

#759 1 year ago

Directly from the moon.

1 month later
#794 12 months ago

That was easy!

8 months later
#1061 3 months ago

I have an original cup +sticker if someone else is cracked or broken. Mine is somewhat yellowed. The left one. PM me.

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