(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?


By Pinballgeek

6 years ago



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#659 1 year ago

Does anyone know where to get the patron insert replacements?

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#662 1 year ago
Quoted from branlon8:

I bought mine at Ministry of Pinball in the Netherlands. I got the whole set of insert decals when I pulled off the mylar and redid the playfield. With some Novus I got the playfield looking really nice and shiny, replaced the damaged inserts then put down a proti.
The decals were quite usable, but I cannot say I’m completely satisfied. The faces of the diners are darker than on the original. I suppose they could have faded over time, but they looked like yours. The new ones are fine when you’re playing and the insert lights are on. It’s one big piece with all 5 diners - it fit pretty well.
What didn’t work so well was the decal over the DINER letters. It didn’t cover the inserts entirely so I had to start getting creative. I discovered that the red on a Time Magazine cover matched the red on Diner almost exactly. Also I kind of wish the yellow around the letters was less translucent.
The worst was the decal for the grill area - I wound up not using it at all and making my own.

To be fair, I don't own one yet, but hoping to soon. And upon reading through the pinside forums, it seems to be a common theme with this specific area.

#665 1 year ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

CPR is working on reproductions of the playfield if that changes your mind on decals.

Is there any ETA on the playfields?

#669 1 year ago

Looks like I’ll be an owner of a Diner soon. I’m sure I’ll have questions as I dive into this as a first time owner.

Side art graphics need to be replaced

Would this be the best place to get them from?

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-DINER-CABSETNG

Also, I believe the cabinet should be sanded and painted black semi-gloss before the Art is applied. Any particular brand?

Thanks

#670 1 year ago

Anyone know if there is a specific name for the Lane change instruction artwork or if it's available for sale anywhere?

Thanks.

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#673 1 year ago

I should clarify, I was not referring to the instruction cards.

Looking for the checkered artwork that says “Lane change. Hold flipped button for status report” which also has the fork and spoon

#675 1 year ago

Just got a Diner.

Outside artwork needs some TLC.

As a first time pinball owner, I’m seeking some advice.

Wondering just to leave it alone, attempt to touch it up, or just get new side art.

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#676 1 year ago

Most of the plastics are cracked and/or worn

I see several different companies selling plastics for the playfield.

Is there one company recommended over another?

Thanks

#678 1 year ago

I’m going to focus on replacing the plastics and cleaning the playfield

For the cabinet, if I go that route, I agree that decals are the way to go. Can the primer and paint be applied with a roller (foam?) or must it be applied by an air sprayer?

Playfield is worn in some spots. Does CPR do good work with their replacement playfields?

#682 1 year ago

Man I love digging into this thing as a first time owner....

I made a quick pass with some Turtle wax chrome polish on the playfield and it’s cleaning up well.

Hopefully this weekend I can remove the plastics and give them and the playfield a good cleaning.

I seem to recall a thread where people used 4 blue LED’s for the lampposts on the backglass. Anyone know the color or part number?

I have 3 of these plastic domes that have the sides snapped off. Can anyone direct me to replacements?

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#683 1 year ago
Quoted from NJDevils30:

The last indication from CPR is the CNC is done. They noted - "We have created a custom made insert in the D-I-N-E-R area in the middle of the PF that should make the actual letters stand out much better than the ill fitting original inserts." I'm really curious to see what they did here, probably a lot that you could do with the CNC.

Where in the overall process would this tell us? More than 50% done?

#685 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I bought some of these from marco

Do you know what these pieces are called?

Thanks

#688 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I made an account and added my games to search easier. You can search Diner and click on the pinball machine and only Diner parts come up. Here is the part I think you need. You can get the dome seperate. Take yours apart to confirm.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8172-13

Perfect. That’s it

#689 1 year ago

Now onto the LED’s. The game has about 90% of the lights replaced, so I don’t feel an LED kit is necessary

Behind the backglass needs (6) LED’s all in the lower row.

Any idea on colors or voltage?

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#690 1 year ago

The right side of the rear backglass is missing (1) lamp holder on the top row. The others in this row hold a yellow comet 13 VAC LED

The remaining ones are marked ED-3. Trying to find a replacement. Are these common pieces or exclusive to Williams?
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#691 1 year ago

Any idea for colors on the following lamps?

#13 - Release
#14 - Rush 1
#15 - Rush 2
#47 - Cup Scores 10x Diner Letter

#693 1 year ago

Is there a specific name for this piece?

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#697 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8319-13
just replace all of them. new star posts really shine up a game.

Yeah, was going to do that anyways.

I take it there were incandescent bulbs installed in these straight from the factory?

#698 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Also your missing base is the larger flasher bulb holder. I could not find those when I wanted one.
[quoted image]

Looks like a replacement is here:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8803
Part number: 24-8803

#700 1 year ago

I was working on the game earlier tonight for a good hour. I was removing some LED’s

Went to dinner. A few hours later, I turned it back on and now there is a slight hum/buzz coming from the speakers. I do not see any loose wires in the backbox or screws missing from the soundboard (no noise earlier on)

Would removal of any LED’s cause this hum?

#702 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

replaced LED's with incandescents? if so, then yes.

No, just removed the broken LED's and did not replace them with anything until I can get the replacements in. So right now, the backbox only has about 1/2 the LED lamps installed.

I did notice that the ground wire from the speaker to the bottom of the back box was not firmly screwed in with the wing-nut. I tightened it and it made no difference.

When I was working on the game originally, I turned the volume off since I didn't want to deal with sounds for a long period of time. When I went back a few hours later, I still had the volume off, but that's when I heard the buzz. I'd be curious if I can hear it with the volume at a normal level.

Maybe I'll try reseating the cables and the sound board screws (none are missing that I can see)

#703 1 year ago

A follow up..,

No difference
-Tried another outlet
-Pull connectors and reattach
-Tightened screws

Made sound louder
-Removed screws from soundboard

#704 12 months ago

I was replacing the star posts and a couple of the "claw holders" broke that allow the screws to go into them.

Is there a specific term for these?

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#705 12 months ago

Anyone know what the best way is to access the target decals so I can replace them?

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#706 12 months ago

I'm trying to remove the cup and saucer. I understand there is a 90 degree L bracket behind the playfield that keeps this in place.

I tried lifing the entire playfield straight up and lifting it up off the hinges so I could access it, but was not successful.

Can anyone recommend the easiest way to do this?

Thanks.

#709 12 months ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I would disconnect the wires in the back box and remove the playfield, personally.

Got it. Thanks

#711 12 months ago

I’m in the process of replacing the LED’s

Are the black slots on the back box to be filled with 13V flasher LED’s?

Also, the top row on the pcb on the back box (that lights the customers) only takes 13v?

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#713 12 months ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

The top 3 are flashers, the bottom 3 are GI (555's).

Appreciate the info, thanks

#714 12 months ago

I’m in the process of reassembling pieces around the cup.

I should have taken a picture beforehand, but did not. Is the bracket orientation correct in this photo? I do not recall it’s purpose.

Thanks

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#716 12 months ago

Can anyone tell me the length or type of screw used here?

I believe it got stripped off and when I attach the ramp to it, it’s loose.

Thanks

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#717 12 months ago

The ice cream floats on the sides of the flippers have 3 screws/post studs.

Can anyone tell me which one goes in each hole?

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#719 11 months ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Anyone here have a really good pic of the area between the lower flippers? im helping a friend to repaint some of the black figures (a dog and some women i think it was) due to being worn away abit and kinda need a pic that shows the white lines in the black figure areas.

I can try to get something for you later tonight if you don't get one sooner.

#722 11 months ago

I noticed one of the flipper buttons had an E clip and one did not.

I replaced the buttons from blue to red and am having a problem trying to reinstall the E clip.

Are they needed?

#729 11 months ago
Quoted from mof:

Depends on the buttons.
To the best of my knowledge:
The original buttons use a spring (on the outside of the cabinet) and have the e-clip.
Remakes have no spring, and have a plastic lip, with no groove to put an e-clip on, and have no use for them.
-mof

Here’s a pic. Seems that this has the plastic lip.

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#731 11 months ago
Quoted from Tomass:

What exactly are you needing? I thought pics, but it is already installed in your pic. I might be able to help.

I was able to get the right pieces from the pile I had. Next time, I’ll be sure I label everything to make it easier to assemble.

4 weeks later
#736 10 months ago

Does anyone know if the playfield glass that came from the factory was tempered glass?

Thanks

2 weeks later
#750 10 months ago
Quoted from dozer1:

Anybody have some good custom apron cards for Diner?

There's one on the 1st page of this thread

3 weeks later
#769 9 months ago

So I’m playing Diner today and notice that the “A” in “EAT” on the back playfield is not lit.

I took the glass off and started a game.
Rolling the ball through “E” and “T” light up. Rolling it through “A” makes a sound so it would appear that the switch that the ball rolls over works.

I took another light socket holder from another location and it will also not light.

The silver (solder?) around the pcb light hole opening looks worn.

Would I be correct in saying that aside from the light not working the “switch” the ball goes over is working?

Looks like the manual says it's just a 3 lamp pcb (part #5768-12245-00), but seems to be discontinued.
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=5768-12245-00

Anyone know who sells them or alternatively maybe a hacked way to get the light working?

Thanks
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#770 9 months ago

Update:

I removed the pcb from the playfield and disconnected the molex head. I reconnected the molex connection and only 1 light would work.

I wiggled the molex connection and all 3 work

Go figure...

1 week later
#774 9 months ago

Took at look at the flipper EOS leaf switches and the right side looks badly worn.

I shall replace both.

Can anyone recommend a good place to get them?

Didn’t I read somewhere that it is best to replace these with high voltage EOS?

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#775 9 months ago

I’ve got a real loose ramp support post (ignore the picture where it’s come off. It’s very loose when on)

Can anyone tell me what the correct metal post should be based on the manual?

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#778 9 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Those are the cabinet switches - the EOS switches are part of the flippers assembly underneath the playfield. Cabinet switches sometimes need to be replaced
(these are now 29 years old, after all), but EOS switches burn out much sooner.
Check out Vid's Guide to Rebuilding Flippers on Pinside for the comprehensive tutorial on how to do it right.

I ordered 2 replacement switches.
I did notice that mine has capacitors installed.

I've seen switches for sale with capacitors already installed, but they weren't for Diner.

I take it they are needed if they are installed. Would I be able to re-use the existing ones or suggest getting new ones?

Any harm if they are left off?
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#782 9 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

This is the capacitor you want. It's a mystery to me why Marco doesn't put a link to this part in your face when you add the switch to your cart (unless they've gotten wise since last time I ordered a cab switch). If you have more than one sys 11 game, buy a bunch to have on hand. You may be able to get them cheaper at GPE, but if you're already shopping through Marco...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C.1M500VR

Thanks for the link

1 week later
#783 8 months ago
Quoted from cadmium:

I second this advice. Same issue with my Doctor Who light board. Reflowing the solder on all the pins took care of it.

So I’ve removed the lamp board.

Which side should I reflow?

The long pin side or the short pin side?

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#785 8 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Long pin side.

Much obliged.

Reflowed and appears stable where it was very flaky before.

2 weeks later
#788 8 months ago

Anyone know if these playfield light boards are readily available?

I couldn’t find them on Marcos site.

Thanks

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#802 8 months ago

So I’m playing Diner today and I notice that the some of the playfield lights on the right hand side are out starting with the ice cream and working up.

I lifted the playfield and noticed that they are daisy chained. It starts with one, daisy chains to a few others but then gets bundled in and is difficult to trace.

I suspect there is a loose wire along the way. The left side works just fine.

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#804 8 months ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Check the J6 connector on the interconnect board in the backbox....(all yellow wires, on the right hand side).

I traced the wires and they all piggyback off each other and ends at the GI light under the jukebox.

Wires were a bit loose on the one under the jukebox so I reflowed some solder. No change. I gather that’s the beginning of the chain and if I can get that to work, the others should also work.

I reseated the J6 connector in the backbox but all wires were brown. No change unless I’m looking in the wrong place

Even stranger I noticed a fuse lying on the cabinet floor under the playfield which I had never seen before. I’m not sure how it got there. I don’t think there are any fuses on the playfield.

Why would the left side work but not the right? Could it be a bad fuse?

Could I swap a fuse that controls the left side to see if it’s a bad fuse on the right?

#806 8 months ago

Thanks for the link. I was looking at it last night. It mentions the possibility of a blown fuse. I was also looking at the wrong connector yesterday in the backbox. The J6 connector with all the yellow wires looked good (nothing burnt).

I’ve also been reading about the GI playfield relay.

I removed mine to see if I should resolder any of the pins.

Look at the picture. It appears one of the solder connections on the bottom is burnt.
I’m not sure if that’s new or was there from a previous owner.

I resoldered the pins and now the GI lights appear very dimly lit. Looks like the relay board may be the culprit. If anyone has one for sale (5768-12243-00), let me know. It’s out of stock pretty much everywhere.

I would figure a bad relay board would have all GI lights or none at all, not half work half don’t.
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#807 8 months ago

The plot thickens...

I should have done this already, but I took the working relay board from the light box and put it on the playfield and the playfield lights are still dim.

I took the burnt looking playfield relay and put it in the light box and it works perfectly.

So it appears the issue is not the playfield relay.

#809 8 months ago
Quoted from dozer1:

If it's some of the general illumination lights that are giving you grief, I would look at the yellow GI connectors on the interconnect board. (long skinny board on the bottom of the back box. If and of those connectors look toasty, they need to be re-pinned. My Diner had several connectors that had to be replaced on that board. If you see ANY burnt connectors, replace them.

I took a look at those and they look clean as a whistle.

I was working on the machine the other day and I had to lift the playfield. GI lights started having issues after that.

I gather something happened because of it.

I’m wondering if it could be a bad fuse?

#811 8 months ago
Quoted from dozer1:

When you first started posting about this, some of your GI were out. Then later when you did the relay swap, you said the GI were dim. Does that mean you gained some ground here? If so, I would closely inspect the connector plug on the PF relay. Maybe slightly burnt or loose? You got some resistance somewhere if they are going on, but too dim. Corroded fuse holder somewhere maybe, but fuses themselves usually either work or are blown.

To summarize...

I was working on the machine the other day and I had to lift the playfield. GI lights started having issues after that.

Resoldering the pins on the existing relay board as well as swapping it out with the one in the light box produces the same behavior: dim lights.

So yes, slight progress.

Last I looked, the playfield relay connector looked fine. I’ll try wiggling it when the machine is on to see if the light changes in any way.

#812 8 months ago

Anyone know the molex head and pin size for the relay connector?

#815 8 months ago

One link I saw regarding a Cyclone issue with the right GI lights being out suggested replacing fuse.

Where would the fuse for the GI be located in the backbox?

Thanks.

#818 8 months ago
Quoted from pintime:

If the lights were working then quit,i would look for a broken wire on that string that starts at top right of playfield .Follow the string from lamp to lamp down to lower right side

After soldering the pins on the relay board, the lights are on, but so dim they may as well be off.

Would dimly lit lights be indicative of a broken wire?

#819 8 months ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I soldered the pins on the relay board and the lights are on but very dimly lit.

Would dimly lit lights be indicative of a broken wire?

#820 8 months ago

For kicks, I soldered the pins on the back of the interconnect board at J6

Still dim

I also wiggled the playfield relay connector. No difference

I also traced the lamp wires from lamp to lamp. No visible burnt or broken wires.

This is driving me nuts...

#821 8 months ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

For kicks, I soldered the pins on the back of the interconnect board at J6

Still dim

I also wiggled the playfield relay connector. No difference

I also traced the wires from lamp to lamp. No visible burnt or loose wires

This is driving me nuts...

#824 8 months ago

Pintime, thank you.

I replaced fuse F2 and all lights are working

I would like to thank everyone else for their input

#826 7 months ago

So I’m replacing the fuses today and when I get to F8, the fuse mount broke off. It took very little pressure for this to come off.

I have the part on order and ordered a few extra just to have.

Stupid question but process is basically desolder, remove mount, install mount, then solder?

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#829 7 months ago

I pulled the main board to reflow some solder on the pins.

I put it back in and when screwing on the top right screw, I didn’t realize that a small wire was behind it.

Once I realized it, I removed the screw.

I took a look at the wire and it was slightly chafed and I could slightly see some exposed wire underneath (silver?), but it looked intact. I can’t tell if it’s Blue/brown or blue/black

I put a piece of electrical tape on it.

Would liquid electrical tape work better?

Thanks

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#830 7 months ago

So I purchased a fuse kit from Marco as well as a fuse socket for location F8 on the Aux Power Driver board

I carefully replaced all the fuses and fuse socket. I made sure the correct amp fuses are in the right location.

Powered on the machine and all get is solid lights. No boot sequence or sounds whatsoever. The clock does not spin.

I checked the fuses again and noticed that the F2C fuse on the Aux was cracked. I replaced that fuse. Powered on again and get the same thing.

No boot sequence or sounds. No lights on any of the pcb’s in the backbox
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#833 7 months ago
Quoted from mof:

Once you get a repeat blown fuse, you may prefer to move to a fuse breaker situation while you track this down, unless you can afford/have unlimited fuses.
I have 1-2 "permanently" installed in a few games, where I gave up on tracking something down, and the failure rate is low... So it's good to be prepared for a wide range of sizes.
-mof
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/making-and-using-a-fuse-breaker
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/slow-blow-fuse-breaker-reference-mouser-links

I should clarify that when I replaced the cracked fuse and I get the same thing, I meant the lights are the same. Not another cracked fuse

#836 7 months ago

Anyone know the amperage for the power supply fuse near the coin door?

#838 7 months ago

Hmmm.

I must have missed the sticker on it the first time. Says 4.

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#840 7 months ago
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#842 7 months ago

I replaced fuses F4 and F5 on the power supply board, but left the backbox door open. Sure enough both fuses blew.

So it appears to be an issue with the power supply board. Not sure exactly what the issue is.

I’ll look into getting a replacement board

Can anyone recommend someone good who repairs these?

Thanks

#844 7 months ago

I swapped the power supply board with a new one and the same 2 fuses blew.

1 month later
#904 6 months ago

I've never noticed this before, so I figure I would ask..

For a new game, is the clock supposed to start at 12:00 or 1:00?

1 week later
#918 5 months ago

Does anyone have (or has had) interior mirror blades or art on the inside of their Diner?

If so, is it worth it?

3 weeks later
#947 4 months ago

My Diner is in the basement and I'm thinking of applying new side art. I do not have the ability to take it outside or work in the garage

Best way to prep for the new art...Sanding? Paint remover?

#952 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It is very possible to do the outside without removing the playfield.
There's a video of a guy who just layed the game on its side.
Pretty slick.
It's not recommended, but possible.
You have to remove the head and side rails so...after the playfield is all un plugged, pull it out of the cab...
Sand it all off, paint with rustoleum 2x gray primer then paint with rustoleum 2x satin black.

Thanks for the info. What grit sandpaper should I be using?

The backbox has a few chunks missing from the corners.

Bondo or wood putty?

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