(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?

By Pinballgeek

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 1,053 posts
  • 149 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by pinballinreno
  • Topic is favorited by 59 Pinsiders


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#518 2 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

I put new decals on mine,they didn't come on the game,but they went right on without teardown!!

I just got my machine so I am thoroughly cleaning everything and the middle drops needed new decals. I just removed the whole drop target assembly since I wanted to clean it out. Once on the bench, removed the E-clips top and bottom of each target, but at the top watch out for the little spring that will disappear forever if you are not ready for it. The visible spring is the one that pulls it down, the other one is pushing the target forward at the top and is not easily seen while in the machine.

3 weeks later
#526 2 years ago

My Diner was pretty filthy when I bought it 2 months ago and I tore down the entire playfield (wow there are a lot of pieces) and am now putting it all back together. I swapped out all the coil sleeves and I have the PF only partially together but when I test the underside ball launcher it lobs them right out the back of the playfield and into the cabinet. I know once the back board is on with the juke box in place that won't happen but it seems like the juke box will take a pounding. It doesn't look like it has been beat up in the past. Is this normal?

#528 2 years ago

There is certainly the shooter lane guide the turns the ball left as it reaches the back corner. I do not see anything to deflect a ball that is too high.

#530 2 years ago

Is there an adjustment? The ball is riding up the rails correctly it just seems to be too fast now that I cleaned up the mechanism.

1 month later
#534 1 year ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

New member of the club here. Always had a soft spot for Diner and my wife and son think it's the best game we have.
Only issue is the ball eject. When not lit, and the ball goes in, it is fired out so hard that it hits the Juke box most times and falls right back towards the plunger. I am concerned it will break something. I have tried everything I know to do. I have adjusted the under playfield habitrail and feel like I have only made it worse, even going in both directions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Kicker solenoid matches what it originally called for.

Same thing happened to me when I shopped mine. The new coil sleeve seemed to be the big difference, it would fire right into the juke box. I taped a 5/8" ring onto the coil stop. This reduces the stroke of the solenoid core just enough that the ball comes out fast but never flying too high. It also does not require any switch adjusting. When the coil slows down with wear, I can just pull the ring out again.

#535 1 year ago

Here is a picture, the first ring covers the original stop, the second ring steps the coil plunger forward a bit. On my machine this works perfectly. I don't really get why its so powerful with just a clean coil sleeve though.

Coil Stop (resized).jpg

3 months later
#557 1 year ago

I had the switch in the cup fail in a similar way. As you know finally getting the ball swirling around should be met with cool sounds and a good score. In mine I could test it manually fine but the ball speed seemed to make it random. Finally switched it out and problem solved. Just need to get better at playing now.

#558 1 year ago

What setting do people use for the outlane spacing? I swear this game dumps more unsaveable balls into the outlanes than any other. I have never narrowed the outlane spacing on any game but on this game I am tempted. I find ball control after ricocheting off the sling shots really tough on Diner and I lose many balls into the outlanes from that alone. This game is hard.

#560 1 year ago

I agree, registering as a drain is pretty weird.

2 weeks later
#566 1 year ago

What sort of extra ball settings are people using? I like to set a scoring threshold where I get an extra ball, the manual seems to say 6,000,000. I would like to have more than one level but my Diner at least will not allow anything larger than 9,800,000 and having that and 4,900,000 seems like it makes the game too easy.

1 week later
#569 1 year ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

I just got my first pinball machine, #Diner, and I am loving it and will have lot of questions. First, when I make the cup shot, it only seems to register a score with every 2nd revolution around the cup. So the first will get 250k, 3rd 500k, 5th 750k etc. I have tried activating the switch manually and it does the same thing, every 2nd switch closing does not advance the score. Is this normal? Also, I see the sometimes the "extra ball" is lit in one of the out lanes but I have not figured out what does it, any ideas? Thanks.

It is supposed to score like that. You will notice that after 2,500,000 it will score on every turn until a maximum of 3,500,000.

#572 1 year ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

I have noticed that the E-A-T lights above the cup are only working intermittently on my machine. If I reach behind and jiggle the connector on the board that mounts the lights they will come on but after a bit of play time they are out again. Can anyone advise how to get at that circuit board? It seems like I will have to take a ton of stuff off the play field to get at it.

Tip the playfield up vertical, lift the playfield up out of the slots and sit it back down on the back of the slotted brackets. You can then lower it down but now the playfield can be slid forward another 6" or so when it is lowered. There is a light or two you have to watch when you do slide it forward. Then the back panel is quite a bit more accessible.

The non-obvious part is how to lift the playfield. I stand in front of the machine elbows on the side rails. I pry upward with my arms to lift it.

#579 1 year ago

That is a tough one to get to, you have to remove the ramp which is pretty tangled up with the cup. My machine came with it missing, I cloned the one on the left side which a mirror image. I just used piano wire and pliers.

1 week later
#583 1 year ago

I asked above but I think it got lost in the noise. What score setting do people use for getting a free ball. I would like to get more than one free ball based on score but everything has to fit underneath 9,800,000 which is low.

4 months later
#594 1 year ago

I recently made a new one from blue spring steel. I don't have any pictures handy though. Your patched version is the right size, you really only need it to rivet to the flap, the bracket and extend a short way into the plastic ball trough/ramp. I madde mine with scissors and riveted it in place. I used the scissors to round the corners like the original. You can do all that, leave the ramp end a bit long and trim it to size while test fitting it.

1 month later
#634 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Does anyone have their lift ramp fire 2 or 3 times before it stays up? At first it wouldn't stay but I bent the bracket that catches. A little more and it seems to bind though.

That little mechanism is pretty finicky. Mine was like that when I got it. Now it works every time but vibration during play can make it fall. The machine lifts it back up immediately if that happens though.

#636 1 year ago

All my Diner's large PF inserts were all over the map, tilted in different directions and some by quite a lot. I bought one of those HarborFreight 12" deep throat C-lamps, put wax paper on the topside, and small piece of hardwood over that. Removed the nearby sockets, wires, etc underneath. Put 2 part epoxy in a few spots around the insert perimeter, bridge over the insert on the underside with a scrap of wood, and clamped it. My epoxy would hold fast within 15 minutes. I could push them down by hand and they would spring up again immediately. Hitting them would have been pointless. The epoxy fix is permanent and pretty easy. Occasionally for various reasons I could not get one perfectly flush but definitely flat enough you would never think it was something to fix.

1 month later
#710 11 months ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I'm trying to remove the cup and saucer. I understand there is a 90 degree L bracket behind the playfield that keeps this in place.
I tried lifing the entire playfield straight up and lifting it up off the hinges so I could access it, but was not successful.
Can anyone recommend the easiest way to do this?

Definitely don't need to remove the playfield or really any connectors. From earlier in the thread. Doing this I could get plenty of space to remove the cup and the whole back panel.


3 weeks later
#733 11 months ago

The lighting sequence looks quite nice. Is the Pinduino sensing game activity in any way? I watched the video and it seemed like the behaviour changed initially then I could not tell after that.

4 weeks later
#746 10 months ago

My Diner does not have that part at all. I have yet to have a ball land up there though.

3 months later
#866 6 months ago

Just got my Diner pre-order CPR email, but x3 somehow. I never got any achknowledgement at the time so not sure what happened. I have one PF on the way so there might be 2 extra slots in the list for people.

#874 6 months ago

The clear on the one I just received is beautifully flat and seems more than adequate. I have a previous CPR, a Flash Gordon, where the clear is much thinner. I cannot picture wanting to add more clear to Diner.

2 months later
#969 4 months ago

Who has much success nudging when in the cup? I never feel like I am affecting anything. What is the best timing? Front to back.

2 months later
#1019 42 days ago

Is there a guide for System 11 playfield removal? I have pulled many playfields on early Bally SS machines, but not on a System 11 before. At first glance it looks like there are 20+ connectors to remove all over the back box. It looks like I should separate the cabinet harnesses from the playfield ones, the whole mess is tie wrapped together and I would rather leave things connected that can stay that way.

#1023 42 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Remove as many wire ties as necessary to separate the harnesses to make the job easier, but it shouldn't be super necessary unless someone way over did it.
Label the connectors with a sharpie for easy reassembly.
Disconnect the playfield ones. Stuff them into the cabinet.

Sounds like you are confirming the need to separate cabinet harnesses from playfield ones where they dangle down out of the head.

Any idea how many connectors I will have removed when I do it? There seem to be switch strobes and returns all times 2, lighting matrix, solenoid power lines.

3 weeks later
#1028 20 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys: I have a couple leads on a diner. However, they both really need shopped.
I know it's relative to experience, but how difficult is the shop out on diner?

I would say removing the ramps is easy but you need to make sure you know how the flaps on the top end of the left ramp connect to the continued ramp behind it for instance. The other ramps are fiddly but not hard. Removing the cup is challenging and you need to move the play field forward several inches. You will spend a huge amount of time not getting at things until the playfield is moved.

Cleaning the mechanism underneath is pretty straightforward but 2 things to keep in mind. On mine after changing the sleeve on the under playfield shooter lane mechanism, it got so strong it was firing the ball into the jukebox. I had already thrown out the sleeve so I had to limit its travel to slow it down. On the ramp diverter, that solenoid plunger needs to bottom out fully or the diverter sits there and makes a loud buzz whenever it operates.

#1030 19 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Maybe a weaker shooter spring..?
Mine had the wrong spring in it.

I am talking about the under playfield shooter. The solenoid suddenly got a lot stronger with a clean sleeve. The spring is just a recoil spring to push the plunger back.

#1033 19 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

The few I’ve been offered have raised inserts. Isn’t it somewhat easy to heat them from below and push them down?

I suspect most of them have this issue. They won't stay if you push them down, on mine it was quite severe and you could flex them down visibly quite easily. What saved the playfield was the factory mylar that just tented up with the inserts. I followed Vid1900's approach to fix them. Removed light sockets and things in the way. I roughened up the perimeter wall of the insert just a bit (did not touch the part we see through). Applied 2 part epoxy underneath where the insert meets the wood around the perimeter using a cheap plumbing flux brush. Placed wax paper over the insert, just in case, then a small hardwood block. Did a similar block underneath and used a deep throat C clamp to hold in place until cured. I did two inserts at a time this way. I got mine down very close to level, no more fly balls hitting the flippers.

#1036 18 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

EDIT: scanned vids how-to. I think you mean you actually popped out the insert, roughed up the edge, epoxied, and then clamped.
Do you always have to pop it out? Or can you just heat it up, push it down, glue and clamp? Or will this not be adequate?

No need to pop anything out unless the whole thing is loose. On mine, the ends towards the bottom of the playfield were still bonded. The upper ends were disconnected and they had all ramped upward.

What I meant is I roughed up the vertical walls of the inserts. I then put epoxy bridging the vertical sidewall of the inserts onto the wood of the playfield.

#1039 18 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I think I see.
So you roughed up the edges of the insert sticking up out of
The pf, then applied epoxy underneath, and clamped them back down?
Also: when doing this, doesn’t it leave a line around the insert edge where it lifted and broke the old art/any clear the pf had? I supposed a black paint pen could conceal that break in the edge.

I wish I had a good photo. 100% of everything is from below the playfield, hopefully the diagram makes it clear.

Insert (resized).jpg
#1044 18 days ago
Quoted from vassq:

Hate to throw this out there during this tech talk. I have a chance to buy a diamond pf diner in excellent condition. 3k. Thoughts.?

I am not sure I understand, a Diner with a diamond plate PF (good deal), or just the PF for $3k (terrible deal).

2 weeks later
#1050 4 days ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

The metal flap in the shooter lane on my Diner is pretty badly corroded. I imagine this is a common problem - is there a way to improve the look of it (as I start on my CPR swap)? Or is there a source for a replacement? I see that Pinbits lists that part on their site but no longer has them in stock.

It is made from the same thin metal stock as are used at the base of ramps. It cuts well with scissors I made my own.

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