(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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  • 2,027 posts
  • 230 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Sonic
  • Topic is favorited by 83 Pinsiders

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#457 7 years ago

Hey gang, by chance does anyone have a partial insert decal set they want to sell? I actually only need the "TOP 5 WHEN LIT" decal at the top of the shooter lane. I am trying to avoid blowing $50-$60 on the whole insert/overlay set, just for one decal.

7 months later
#493 6 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

does this thing need something attached to it?

That "thing" doesnt belong there at all, it is not a part of your game, it is a universal "L" bracket found at hardware stores, typically used for building cabinetry... Remove it.

3 months later
#538 6 years ago
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:

Quick update. It is fixed.
My issue was the "today's special" ejector hole and the wire form under the playfield sending the ball to hard and high into the jukebox and preventing the ball from going where it should.
I disassembled and pulled the habitrail out where I could visually inspect it. The crux of the issue was the angle where the wireform meets the playfield. It was too extreme. I gently pried the ends to flatten it out slightly. Maybe 2-3mm. It appears this was planned for as the holes drilled for the posts at the end of the wireform are very large and allow for some tweaking. Once flattened slightly, I reassembled it and have not had a failed eject since. Forgive me, but below is the worst drawing ever trying to show it. Just trying to help someone in the future. I didn't think to snap photos or I would have.

Good job! Way to dig in and troubleshoot properly. Are you by chance missing the clear plastic with the records on it that hangs over the shooter lane near the top? That was intentionally placed there to help deflect "misguided" ejected balls from hitting the jukebox.

IMG_0308.pngIMG_0308.png

3 months later
#561 6 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Still stumped as to why the ball can go under the left ramp, pause, and then register as a drain. Just went into switch test and clicked that switch ~50 times and it registered as the proper switch each time.

If it's in fact true that all your hardware checks out good, its likely that you have a logic glitch. Most of those issues are resolved with a simple RAM clear... Turn off, unplug, pull batteries, wait 2-3 mins, reinsert batteries, plug in, turn on, re-adjust settings.

3 weeks later
#575 5 years ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

Thanks guys! My first successful solder job! The connector had been torqued and broken the pins free from the solder. Reflowed them and it works perfectly. Cheers!

2 weeks later
#584 5 years ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

I am cleaning up the clock on my machine and I am wondering about the start position and how to adjust it. When I start a new game the hand is at about 1:20, I'm guessing it should be at 1:00? To adjust I see a set screw on holding the clock face to the stepper motor shaft, can anyone advise how to set the position properly or adjust it? I see the flag for the opto but it is fixed in relation to the clock hands so I don't know moving the clock on the shaft will make any difference as I expect it is the opto that sets the position? The notch on the clock face sticker is aligned with the notch on the wheel. Thanks.

Your assumptions are correct. The hand will never hit every hour dead perfect, but if the hand is equally off on each number, the only way to adjust the clock hand to the backglass is to remove, rotate and remount the entire clock assembly on the insert panel. And there is only a very tiny amount of room to move it.

4 months later
#603 5 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

I should have flame polished my new cup before installing btw...

Where on earth did you even find a new cup??

2 months later
#667 5 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Does anyone know where to get the patron insert replacements?
[quoted image]

If anyone needs, I have a new set (characters and D I N E R inserts) that I will sell you for cheap.

1 week later
#712 5 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I’m in the process of replacing the LED’s
Are the black slots on the back box to be filled with 13V flasher LED’s?
Also, the top row on the pcb on the back box (that lights the customers) only takes 13v?

The top 3 are flashers, the bottom 3 are GI (555's).

1 month later
#740 5 years ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Hello fellow Diner owners. I've been doing a lot of 3D design and printing at my local library. After having some luck designing dalek pinball posts for Dr. Who I wanted to freshen up my Diner. The existing plastic switch covers for the ramps are big and boring. I hope y'all like these updated ones.

Very creative!!

2 months later
#789 4 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Anyone know if these playfield light boards are readily available?
I couldn’t find them on Marcos site.
Thanks

Nope, Nobody has ever had them as new replacements. Now and then you'll find some on ebay from someone parting a game.
Usually you just replace it with a 44 socket/bulb.

#823 4 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

After soldering the pins on the relay board, the lights are on, but so dim they may as well be off.
Would dimly lit lights be indicative of a broken wire?

There's a molex connector with the 4 yellow GI wires, coming off the power transformer... make sure that connector is clean and tightly connected. A loose or poor connection there can cause dim lights on one or more of the GI circuits. I had this exact issue with my Whirlwind, and that was the problem.

3 months later
#960 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

No one has a scan of the clock hand?
PM me if you do.

Just pull the image from Marco and print it on an white inkjet full-page decal... Piece of cake! The trick will be to orient it correctly.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1559-571-2

1 year later
#1201 3 years ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

When I start a new game, I hear multiple clicking sounds that sound like a ball is stuck
I’m hearing those same sounds at random times during gameplay while on the same ball.
You can hear it in the first and last 5 seconds. More annoying than anything else

Unfortunately the video is not very helpful, but if I had to guess, i'd say its maybe your drop target reset coil(s) are firing due to dirty optos, or maybe your right sling is activating due to vibration because the gap in one or more of the the leaf switches is too small... Pop bumpers can also have this problem. You need to identify what coils are firing, to determine how to resolve this issue.

2 months later
#1278 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys this doesn’t look correct. This metal price.
Any ideas?

First, its upside down, and I believe it mounts to lower screws on the back of the cash register, i'm going from memory, i'm at work right now.
Also, I'm thinking that piece was remade by someone, apparently out of stainless... The original is bright mirror-chrome.

#1279 3 years ago

Here, I found this online...

22_g_1-png_LI (resized).jpg22_g_1-png_LI (resized).jpg
#1281 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Thanks. Looks like it also has a plastic on it?

no, its just a reflection of the speaker panel, its mirror chrome.

1 month later
#1341 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

The drops look fantastic. Can you share more about them?

www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/Diner_Page.html

I bought these for my game a few years ago, a must-have addition. Diner should have been built with these from the factory!

2 months later
#1377 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

What is the part number for the Diner flipper button? I don't see it in the Manual. The Diner I'm shopping out has two different buttons and I would like to make them match. I think PBR has the correct button, WLL-A16883-4, but I wanted to double-check.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-9284

2 months later
#1423 2 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, thinking of selling my diner. Thoughts on price...

Have you looked around here lately?? Whatever the pinside price range says, find the middle and then double it! Some clueless asshat will come along and buy it, and destroy this hobby just a little bit more. What any game is actually worth, as well as condition, etc. is irrelevant anymore.

5 months later
#1518 2 years ago
Quoted from mike200mph:

I have plenty of New clear coffee cups if you need PM me if you need one

And what are these going for nowadays?

3 months later
#1554 2 years ago
Quoted from firefighter:

Just finished a full restoration on Diner and I did install the new MRS switch for the cup and it works perfect! I also put the switch in Creature also. I feel it give me a few extra points for the ball spinning around the cup and I need all the point I can get Installation was very easy too.
[quoted image]

Nice work! I one was of the first to get that MRS for the cup, it is simple to install, my only concern was the adhesive letting go over time. So far so good!

#1564 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

So is that to say I should be able to loosen the lock nut and readjust the zero so that all the way left is mute?

No, thats not how it works... The nut has nothing to do with the limits, it just holds it on the bracket, and there is no "zeroing". A potentiometer is a fixed value from end to end. The factory pot starts at zero ohms and goes to 10k ohms, so turning it all the way counterclockwise should set the volume to zero.
Its likely that someone replaced yours at some point with different limit values, or possible yours is malfunctioning (they dont last forever). I'd suggest just replacing it with a proper 0-10K ohm. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-8550-1

#1566 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Thanks for explaining how that works.
Is this the same one, minus the bracket? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5014-12363-00

Based on the description, it appears to be...

3 weeks later
#1602 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I guess what I'm wondering is how to install.

You need to remove and replace the existing mylar, the graphics are typically perfect underneath. The overlay is for games that have the artwork worn away or if you have to reset badly raised inserts. if you use the overlay you then put it on top of the existing artwork and apply the new mylar over it.
I can tell you that most insert repair sets came with that overlay, and people just kept it because they didn't actually need it... They just used specific insert art for areas that didn't have mylar over them from the factory, like the "Top 5 When Lit" insert that takes a beating!

3 weeks later
#1629 2 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

looking for repair decals for where the ball drops from the ramps down by the slings

I had this idea many years ago.... If someone started making these for a huge range of games, they would get rich QUICK! I need some for my Fish Tales, but i'm not aware of anyone making these for any games...

3 weeks later
#1672 1 year ago
Quoted from NJDevils30:

Was able to meet Mark Ritchie at TPF 2022 and he signed my slingshot plastic. Glad to add this to my game.
[quoted image]

Nifty!!

#1679 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Mirror finish is definitely possible and some guys do it, but it plays weird. The balls shoot like a bowling ally and they dont roll like they should.
So, I bring it down to just before mirror sheen.

So true.... The ball slides a ton while rolling instead of rolling with any traction for accuracy or track predictability.
Too much wax can have a similar effect.

2 weeks later
#1691 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

My Diner when I power it on will occasionally fire the knocker coil. It happens the instant I flip the power switch underneath. Maybe 1 in 10 times I turn on the game. No idea why it does this but it startles me big time when it happens. It’s not every coil as the flippers don’t move and it shouldn’t be ball search related because this is the knocker in the back box.
Anyone ever seen this or know why it happens? Power supply issue perhaps? Something I can check to figure it out?

It means there is an error, usually a switch that hasnt triggered in a while. Its nothing to panic about, its normal. In WPC games, this was replaced with the "credit dot".

2 months later
#1724 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Can someone tell me what the correct strength shooter rod spring is for Diner? Part number and/or colour ideally. I don’t see that specifically in the manual. I am guessing medium-strong, which might be the blue one. 10-148-3 I think that would make it?

10-148-4 "medium-high" Green.

#1727 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I thought it was a blue spring! I bought a new one after looking at the manual, maybe I misread

Its actually not in the manual, my game is HUO and came from the factory with a green spring.

#1729 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

I didn't get it from the manual then, think I got it from here, which must be incorrect
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shooter-spring-strengthcolor-database#post-1863083

Well you can certainly use a blue, in fact you might get better/faster timing for the skill shot with a stronger spring.

4 months later
#1804 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I'm going to turn the tables. Most people ask for images from other people. I can't understand why. If you post an image of what you have, it is highly likely someone will be able to help you fix what you have without having to consult a reference image. The wiring information documented in the manual is often more than adequate.
If you're still stuck, why don't you post an image of what you have? You've already admitted to blindly cutting wires so there's no risk of someone showing that you did something embarrassing by doing self inflicted damage (which happens more often than most people will publicly admit to).

People that are not tech savvy rely heavily on visual aides. Those who just wing it or cluelessly misinterpret the info in the manual, blow up their games!

1 month later
#1872 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

UPDATE ON WHAT I HAVE DONE: Replaced the coil w/ a brand new AE-26-1500 (no diode). Grounded a wire and then placed it on the Q7 and the coil fired and held like it should. Replaced Q7 and Q3 on the CPU. Replaced Q5 and D16 on the Aux Power Board. Nothing changed. I am confused as a bitch..

I don't see anything where you've mentioned if the coil activates properly in test mode?? If not....
Since Q7 activates the coil properly by grounding it, apparently there's something going on between the logic function and the Q7 driver... You should try replacing the Q3 (2N4401) transistor, and if nothing, possibly the U17 (7408) IC.

1 month later
#1907 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

The resistor for my left ramp flashers is dead, a cable tie was resting on it, which melted. So I can't see the value of the resistor.
Could anyone let me know the value of this one, it's R11 on the interconnect board.
[quoted image]

4 ohms, same values as R9

2 weeks later
#1921 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-8726-L-1
Anyone know what the proper type and size and quantity of screws are for the playfield support brackets? I noticed mine don't have as many screws in it as it seems like it should and peering through the holes, it looks like maybe the ends are going into T-nuts or something else threaded (i.e. not wood screws). Just wondering what size thread and length the screws needed are.

All screws are 1/2" long. The 2 phillips are 8-32 and go into T-nuts.
The other 4 are #8 course-thread, hex-head wood screws.

Image1 (resized).pngImage1 (resized).png

5 months later
#1982 7 months ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

make from piece of shit a candy

Making candy from shit? Must be a Russian thing... Among other things I wont mention.

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