Does anyone know where to get the patron insert replacements?

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To be fair, I don't own one yet, but hoping to soon. And upon reading through the pinside forums, it seems to be a common theme with this specific area.

Is there any ETA on the playfields?

Looks like I’ll be an owner of a Diner soon. I’m sure I’ll have questions as I dive into this as a first time owner.

Side art graphics need to be replaced

Would this be the best place to get them from?

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-DINER-CABSETNG

Also, I believe the cabinet should be sanded and painted black semi-gloss before the Art is applied. Any particular brand?

Thanks

Anyone know if there is a specific name for the Lane change instruction artwork or if it's available for sale anywhere?

Thanks.

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I should clarify, I was not referring to the instruction cards.

Looking for the checkered artwork that says “Lane change. Hold flipped button for status report” which also has the fork and spoon

Just got a Diner.

Outside artwork needs some TLC.

As a first time pinball owner, I’m seeking some advice.

Wondering just to leave it alone, attempt to touch it up, or just get new side art.

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Most of the plastics are cracked and/or worn

I see several different companies selling plastics for the playfield.

Is there one company recommended over another?

Thanks

I’m going to focus on replacing the plastics and cleaning the playfield

For the cabinet, if I go that route, I agree that decals are the way to go. Can the primer and paint be applied with a roller (foam?) or must it be applied by an air sprayer?

Playfield is worn in some spots. Does CPR do good work with their replacement playfields?

Man I love digging into this thing as a first time owner....

I made a quick pass with some Turtle wax chrome polish on the playfield and it’s cleaning up well.

Hopefully this weekend I can remove the plastics and give them and the playfield a good cleaning.

I seem to recall a thread where people used 4 blue LED’s for the lampposts on the backglass. Anyone know the color or part number?

I have 3 of these plastic domes that have the sides snapped off. Can anyone direct me to replacements?

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Where in the overall process would this tell us? More than 50% done?

Do you know what these pieces are called?

Thanks

Perfect. That’s it

Now onto the LED’s. The game has about 90% of the lights replaced, so I don’t feel an LED kit is necessary

Behind the backglass needs (6) LED’s all in the lower row.

Any idea on colors or voltage?

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The right side of the rear backglass is missing (1) lamp holder on the top row. The others in this row hold a yellow comet 13 VAC LED

The remaining ones are marked ED-3. Trying to find a replacement. Are these common pieces or exclusive to Williams?
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Any idea for colors on the following lamps?

#13 - Release
#14 - Rush 1
#15 - Rush 2
#47 - Cup Scores 10x Diner Letter

Is there a specific name for this piece?

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Yeah, was going to do that anyways.

I take it there were incandescent bulbs installed in these straight from the factory?

Looks like a replacement is here:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8803
Part number: 24-8803

I was working on the game earlier tonight for a good hour. I was removing some LED’s

Went to dinner. A few hours later, I turned it back on and now there is a slight hum/buzz coming from the speakers. I do not see any loose wires in the backbox or screws missing from the soundboard (no noise earlier on)

Would removal of any LED’s cause this hum?

No, just removed the broken LED's and did not replace them with anything until I can get the replacements in. So right now, the backbox only has about 1/2 the LED lamps installed.

I did notice that the ground wire from the speaker to the bottom of the back box was not firmly screwed in with the wing-nut. I tightened it and it made no difference.

When I was working on the game originally, I turned the volume off since I didn't want to deal with sounds for a long period of time. When I went back a few hours later, I still had the volume off, but that's when I heard the buzz. I'd be curious if I can hear it with the volume at a normal level.

Maybe I'll try reseating the cables and the sound board screws (none are missing that I can see)

A follow up..,

No difference
-Tried another outlet
-Pull connectors and reattach
-Tightened screws

Made sound louder
-Removed screws from soundboard

I was replacing the star posts and a couple of the "claw holders" broke that allow the screws to go into them.

Is there a specific term for these?

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Anyone know what the best way is to access the target decals so I can replace them?

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I'm trying to remove the cup and saucer. I understand there is a 90 degree L bracket behind the playfield that keeps this in place.

I tried lifing the entire playfield straight up and lifting it up off the hinges so I could access it, but was not successful.

Can anyone recommend the easiest way to do this?

Thanks.

Got it. Thanks

I’m in the process of replacing the LED’s

Are the black slots on the back box to be filled with 13V flasher LED’s?

Also, the top row on the pcb on the back box (that lights the customers) only takes 13v?

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Appreciate the info, thanks

I’m in the process of reassembling pieces around the cup.

I should have taken a picture beforehand, but did not. Is the bracket orientation correct in this photo? I do not recall it’s purpose.

Thanks

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Can anyone tell me the length or type of screw used here?

I believe it got stripped off and when I attach the ramp to it, it’s loose.

Thanks

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The ice cream floats on the sides of the flippers have 3 screws/post studs.

Can anyone tell me which one goes in each hole?

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I can try to get something for you later tonight if you don't get one sooner.

I noticed one of the flipper buttons had an E clip and one did not.

I replaced the buttons from blue to red and am having a problem trying to reinstall the E clip.

Are they needed?

Here’s a pic. Seems that this has the plastic lip.

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I was able to get the right pieces from the pile I had. Next time, I’ll be sure I label everything to make it easier to assemble.

Does anyone know if the playfield glass that came from the factory was tempered glass?

Thanks

There's one on the 1st page of this thread

So I’m playing Diner today and notice that the “A” in “EAT” on the back playfield is not lit.

I took the glass off and started a game.
Rolling the ball through “E” and “T” light up. Rolling it through “A” makes a sound so it would appear that the switch that the ball rolls over works.

I took another light socket holder from another location and it will also not light.

The silver (solder?) around the pcb light hole opening looks worn.

Would I be correct in saying that aside from the light not working the “switch” the ball goes over is working?

Looks like the manual says it's just a 3 lamp pcb (part #5768-12245-00), but seems to be discontinued.
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=5768-12245-00

Anyone know who sells them or alternatively maybe a hacked way to get the light working?

Thanks
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Update:

I removed the pcb from the playfield and disconnected the molex head. I reconnected the molex connection and only 1 light would work.

I wiggled the molex connection and all 3 work

Go figure...

Took at look at the flipper EOS leaf switches and the right side looks badly worn.

I shall replace both.

Can anyone recommend a good place to get them?

Didn’t I read somewhere that it is best to replace these with high voltage EOS?

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I’ve got a real loose ramp support post (ignore the picture where it’s come off. It’s very loose when on)

Can anyone tell me what the correct metal post should be based on the manual?

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I ordered 2 replacement switches.
I did notice that mine has capacitors installed.

I've seen switches for sale with capacitors already installed, but they weren't for Diner.

I take it they are needed if they are installed. Would I be able to re-use the existing ones or suggest getting new ones?

Any harm if they are left off?
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Thanks for the link

So I’ve removed the lamp board.

Which side should I reflow?

The long pin side or the short pin side?

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Much obliged.

Reflowed and appears stable where it was very flaky before.

Anyone know if these playfield light boards are readily available?

I couldn’t find them on Marcos site.

Thanks

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So I’m playing Diner today and I notice that the some of the playfield lights on the right hand side are out starting with the ice cream and working up.

I lifted the playfield and noticed that they are daisy chained. It starts with one, daisy chains to a few others but then gets bundled in and is difficult to trace.

I suspect there is a loose wire along the way. The left side works just fine.

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I traced the wires and they all piggyback off each other and ends at the GI light under the jukebox.

Wires were a bit loose on the one under the jukebox so I reflowed some solder. No change. I gather that’s the beginning of the chain and if I can get that to work, the others should also work.

I reseated the J6 connector in the backbox but all wires were brown. No change unless I’m looking in the wrong place

Even stranger I noticed a fuse lying on the cabinet floor under the playfield which I had never seen before. I’m not sure how it got there. I don’t think there are any fuses on the playfield.

Why would the left side work but not the right? Could it be a bad fuse?

Could I swap a fuse that controls the left side to see if it’s a bad fuse on the right?

Thanks for the link. I was looking at it last night. It mentions the possibility of a blown fuse. I was also looking at the wrong connector yesterday in the backbox. The J6 connector with all the yellow wires looked good (nothing burnt).

I’ve also been reading about the GI playfield relay.

I removed mine to see if I should resolder any of the pins.

Look at the picture. It appears one of the solder connections on the bottom is burnt.
I’m not sure if that’s new or was there from a previous owner.

I resoldered the pins and now the GI lights appear very dimly lit. Looks like the relay board may be the culprit. If anyone has one for sale (5768-12243-00), let me know. It’s out of stock pretty much everywhere.

I would figure a bad relay board would have all GI lights or none at all, not half work half don’t.
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The plot thickens...

I should have done this already, but I took the working relay board from the light box and put it on the playfield and the playfield lights are still dim.

I took the burnt looking playfield relay and put it in the light box and it works perfectly.

So it appears the issue is not the playfield relay.

I took a look at those and they look clean as a whistle.

I was working on the machine the other day and I had to lift the playfield. GI lights started having issues after that.

I gather something happened because of it.

I’m wondering if it could be a bad fuse?

To summarize...

I was working on the machine the other day and I had to lift the playfield. GI lights started having issues after that.

Resoldering the pins on the existing relay board as well as swapping it out with the one in the light box produces the same behavior: dim lights.

So yes, slight progress.

Last I looked, the playfield relay connector looked fine. I’ll try wiggling it when the machine is on to see if the light changes in any way.

Anyone know the molex head and pin size for the relay connector?

One link I saw regarding a Cyclone issue with the right GI lights being out suggested replacing fuse.

Where would the fuse for the GI be located in the backbox?

Thanks.

After soldering the pins on the relay board, the lights are on, but so dim they may as well be off.

Would dimly lit lights be indicative of a broken wire?

For kicks, I soldered the pins on the back of the interconnect board at J6

Still dim

I also wiggled the playfield relay connector. No difference

I also traced the lamp wires from lamp to lamp. No visible burnt or broken wires.

This is driving me nuts...

Pintime, thank you.

I replaced fuse F2 and all lights are working

I would like to thank everyone else for their input

So I’m replacing the fuses today and when I get to F8, the fuse mount broke off. It took very little pressure for this to come off.

I have the part on order and ordered a few extra just to have.

Stupid question but process is basically desolder, remove mount, install mount, then solder?

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I pulled the main board to reflow some solder on the pins.

I put it back in and when screwing on the top right screw, I didn’t realize that a small wire was behind it.

Once I realized it, I removed the screw.

I took a look at the wire and it was slightly chafed and I could slightly see some exposed wire underneath (silver?), but it looked intact. I can’t tell if it’s Blue/brown or blue/black

I put a piece of electrical tape on it.

Would liquid electrical tape work better?

Thanks

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So I purchased a fuse kit from Marco as well as a fuse socket for location F8 on the Aux Power Driver board

I carefully replaced all the fuses and fuse socket. I made sure the correct amp fuses are in the right location.

Powered on the machine and all get is solid lights. No boot sequence or sounds whatsoever. The clock does not spin.

I checked the fuses again and noticed that the F2C fuse on the Aux was cracked. I replaced that fuse. Powered on again and get the same thing.

No boot sequence or sounds. No lights on any of the pcb’s in the backbox
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I should clarify that when I replaced the cracked fuse and I get the same thing, I meant the lights are the same. Not another cracked fuse

Anyone know the amperage for the power supply fuse near the coin door?

Hmmm.

I must have missed the sticker on it the first time. Says 4.

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I replaced fuses F4 and F5 on the power supply board, but left the backbox door open. Sure enough both fuses blew.

So it appears to be an issue with the power supply board. Not sure exactly what the issue is.

I’ll look into getting a replacement board

Can anyone recommend someone good who repairs these?

Thanks

I swapped the power supply board with a new one and the same 2 fuses blew.

I've never noticed this before, so I figure I would ask..

For a new game, is the clock supposed to start at 12:00 or 1:00?

Does anyone have (or has had) interior mirror blades or art on the inside of their Diner?

If so, is it worth it?

My Diner is in the basement and I'm thinking of applying new side art. I do not have the ability to take it outside or work in the garage

Best way to prep for the new art...Sanding? Paint remover?

Sand down to bare wood or just enough to make smooth?

Paint the cab black with what kind of paint? (Oil/latex, flat/glossy?)

Also, is it possible to do all the outside artwork without having to remove the playfield or backbox pcb’s?

Thanks for the info. What grit sandpaper should I be using?

The backbox has a few chunks missing from the corners.

Bondo or wood putty?

Am I correct in saying that Diner uses 8 amps?

Was more looking just to see how much the game uses to spec out how many amps I would need for a dedicated breaker.

Thanks for the info
I have 2 pinballs and various other machines (slot, skee-ball and Chexx)

I should be safe to put split everything amongst 2 dual outlets

6 dual outlets all on the same line?

Hi,

The "R" in the "DINER" on my playfield flickers and sometimes just goes out.
I have to twist the light holder and then it will light for a while.
I replaced the light holder and bulb and the same issue happens.

Possible cold solder joints?
Anything else I can try?

I tried this and will see how it works out long term

When I start a new game, I hear multiple clicking sounds that sound like a ball is stuck

I’m hearing those same sounds at random times during gameplay while on the same ball.

You can hear it in the first and last 5 seconds. More annoying than anything else

Thanks for the advice.

Looks like there are 3 switches

Looks like it should be a simple replacement.
I see 3 small diodes, 1 on each switch as well as what looks like a long diode on the bottom most switch.

What are they used for and does anyone know the part number for them?

Thanks

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I’ll see if I can find it online.

Is there a marking on the diode that shows which direction it should be installed or does it not matter?

Making some progress (I think)

I removed the balls from the machine and ran the switch test. The following appeared on the display.

Cup entry
06 29

Iced Tea
06 32

So it appears that these 2 are either activated, shorted or broken?

The hunt continues...

Looks like lifting the arm of the switch to the cup entry ramp fixed the problem.

Now upon boot I’m getting message “Press advance for test report".

Check switch spinner 56
Is that in the cup?

Ok, so it looks like the switch was behind the cup. A little tweaking and now the message does not appear upon boot

So you removed the switch by the hole in the cup? Where exactly did you install the MRS switch?

Played a few games and powered off. Powered back on and “Press advance for test report” reappears

Cup 17
Lower left eject 50

Took all the balls out and ran switch test. No errors. Very strange

I ordered an MRS switch for the cup.
Will replace that and keep an eye on it.
I guess I'll just replace the other switches as needed.

I have the same buzz.

Did you reseat J2 while the machine was powered on?

I reseated twice. No difference

I’m having an issue with my left flipper. It appears dead. I loosened the bolts to adjust the height in both flippers. Right flipper works fine.

I don’t see any disconnected wires.

I gather the first step would be to test the coil with the game off and it should measure 3-4 ohms? Anything higher should imply a failed coil?

Thank you for the advice.

I took a look at fuse F6. I inserted a new 2A slow blow and the left flipper is now working.

It appears that the fuse that was in there was a 2A fast blow?

I would have thought if the fuse was bad, both flippers would stop working, not just one.

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