Still looking for a diner in the east coast area!
(Topic ID: 50275)
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Diner
Williams, 1990
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1 month later
1 month later
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:First of all... I don't own this game.. but I like it. Why did I break into this club? No idea, I be in and out.... If you are satisfied how your inserts look when the machine is off. Then just lift your playfield, remove all the lights and hardware behind the insets that are being illuminated. Then paint "aka blackout" all the areas you don't want light to pass. You may need several layers or use very opaque black paint. After you do this, you must make these inserts LED. Buy "RETRO LED". If you paint behind an insert you can not have a standard bulb produce heat. LED = no heat... RETRO = Diner.
Last note: Shine a bright light on the playfield while you black out the other side. This way you will be able to see what you need to do. Take your time, use clean edges and keep adding layers till its amazing.
Seems like this may really make things look horrid. I don't know if I'd do this. Just leave them alone.
4 years later
Guys: I have a couple leads on a diner. However, they both really need shopped.
I know it's relative to experience, but how difficult is the shop out on diner?
Quoted from sawbill:Blackbeard, take care the playfield doesn’t have raised “DINER” and customer inserts. Otherwise, fixing that will be the most important task of your shopout.
The few I’ve been offered have raised inserts. Isn’t it somewhat easy to heat them from below and push them down?
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I roughened up the perimeter wall of the insert just a bit
Trying to visualize this. Are you talking about roughening up the parimeter wall of the insert itself (the small part protruding above the pf) OR are you talking about the parimeter wall of the insert hole of the pf, underneath the pf?
Quoted from Blackbeard:Trying to visualize this. Are you talking about roughening up the parimeter wall of the insert itself (the small part protruding above the pf) OR are you talking about the parimeter wall of the insert hole of the pf, underneath the pf?
EDIT: scanned vids how-to. I think you mean you actually popped out the insert, roughed up the edge, epoxied, and then clamped.
Do you always have to pop it out? Or can you just heat it up, push it down, glue and clamp? Or will this not be adequate?
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:No need to pop anything out unless the whole thing is loose. On mine, the ends towards the bottom of the playfield were still bonded. The upper ends were disconnected and they had all ramped upward.
What I meant is I roughed up the vertical walls of the inserts. I then put epoxy bridging the vertical sidewall of the inserts onto the wood of the playfield.
I think I see.
So you roughed up the edges of the insert sticking up out of
The pf, then applied epoxy underneath, and clamped them back down?
Also: when doing this, doesn’t it leave a line around the insert edge where it lifted and broke the old art/any clear the pf had? I supposed a black paint pen could conceal that break in the edge.
Makes sense now. I see youre roughing up the inside of the insert's edges. I was thinking the outside edge..
Quoted from vassq:Hate to throw this out there during this tech talk. I have a chance to buy a diamond pf diner in excellent condition. 3k. Thoughts.?
My thoughts are I'm jealous and if you pass, I'd like to buy it.
7 months later
So i may be joining the club, but the diner i'm looking at needs shopped. I've shopped a few system 11s, (bad cats, pinbot, police force, to name a few).
Always seems to be snapping those damn posts..
Anyway, i've read that diner is a bitch to shop. Anyone with insight on this? Posts snapping like crazy?
EDIT: looks like diner i'm looking at was shopped.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Cmjb13:Hi,
The "R" in the "DINER" on my playfield flickers and sometimes just goes out.
I have to twist the light holder and then it will light for a while.
I replaced the light holder and bulb and the same issue happens.
Possible cold solder joints?
Anything else I can try?
If it's a twist off holder with a wedge based socket, the little metal holder tabs can be bent inward a bit to make better contact and a snugger bit for the bulb..
Quoted from pinballinreno:Put a little solder on them. Just a thin coat.
Nice tip!
2 months later
Quoted from pinballinreno:Nice original cabinet and door!
Thanks. Need to
Locate the correct credit button. And needs shopped.
Looks daunting.
Quoted from cavalier88z24:Finally? You been after a one for a while? No?
Oh a few years now. This just popped up 2 hours away to I went fast.
The ramp system seems complete
For shopping
Purposes.
Quoted from cavalier88z24:Only to get behind the cup. I find easiest. A few light sockets behind there. wires seem to come off for some reason?
So it
Can be shopped with the pf In place then?
Quoted from Tomass:I can check mine tonight if no one answers before that. I know mine had that piece but can't remember where at the moment.
Awesome. Let me know please.
Anyone have any thoughts on how to tackle the playfield in terms of shopping it? Like order to remove ramps, etc.?
Quoted from pinballinreno:I like to pull out the playfield.
completely strip the top and bottom.
Repair, touch-up and clearcoat.
Then re-assemble with new or refurbished parts.
While the playfield is out, clean and repair the cabinet.
thanks.
I'm just looking to shop it however, hopefully not having to remove the pf.
Does anyone have any insight about beginning the teardown on this one? Order of ramps?
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I RetroBrited my cup, the liquid version and left it in the sun. Much of the yellowing is near the surface and my cup came out much better, a little yellow left but not much.
Wow never heard of this stuff. Is it a Home Depot buy?
SO anyone have luck lowering the center customer and DINER inserts?
I saw a great video where a guy used a harbor freight 12'' c-clamp and some blocks of wood to squeeze the inserts back into place and reglue. No pounding with a mallet or using heat.
Anyone try this ? The guy mentioned wood glue to reglue. Luckily my mylar was already removed without issue.
Quoted from pinballinreno:warm the area with a hair dryer for about 10 mins.
blocks of wood arent flat.
Use hardwood flooring samples from home depot on both sides.
It works great.
Did you reglue? Or does heating somehow reactivate the old glue?
Quoted from Sonic:Where's that MRS?
Not sure what you’re asking, but I basically had to crack that area off.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yes, you must rivet the old parts onto the new ramps.
They will crack really fast without support.
I’m thinking I can attach the old metal plate w tiny flat head screws and nuts underneath. Thoughts? Or would something like
A rivet gun work? Never used one.
That’s what I did w my bad cats ramps. Drilled out rivets then moved the metal parts to new ramps and attached w screws (tiny)
Just watched rays video. He does these rivets by hand w a hammer. Didn’t know that was possible.
Any reason to do
It that way as opposed to a gun? Is by hand the way most repairs are made to ramps?
Also, what do I need rivet washers for?
Hand clincher? Isn’t that a gun?
I thought I was to use the little punch looking thing to hammer the rivet halves together?
1 week later
Got
My diner back together. Turned out sweet.
Q: is it normal for the jackpot shot thru the spinner to be so hard to land? Seems like it never hits the hole. I always just go
For the Daily Special instead.
Is this
Normal for that spinner shot to the eject hole to be so hard to make?
Does anyone else seem to drain when the ball rolls out of the right side of the pop
Bumpers?
Seems to go straight down the middle. So annoying.
Quoted from Tomass:Nudge the right side as it comes down that rail and push it to the left flipper.
Gotcha.
So this is normal then?
Thanks guys.
Really liking diner. I’m liking the different paths one can take towards big points.
Wish the spinner shot was easier to hit for multiball instead of having to rely on the Today’s Special hole. I guess that’s my only gripe.
I also like that the ramps aren’t too easy to hit. Need to time the tip of the flipper just right.
4 months later
Guys, thinking of selling my diner. Thoughts on price...
All new ramps, including cup, shopping with new rubbers and leds. New star posts. Inserts levels. Above average playfield and cab. New flipper mechs.
I have no pics on me, but what are these things going for these days?
Quoted from DK:I might be biased, but high 3's-low 4's. A semi-restored Diner is MUCH more than mid 2's...
Yeah I was a little surprised. I know what I paid for it was middle 2s. Then all the costs for ramps and cup. Not the mention the bitch of a shop job on it and trying to get the ramps in.
Quoted from zerbam:are you open to trades for your diner?
Perhaps. It’s more about space
For me.
Pm is you have something to trade.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Have you looked around here lately?? Whatever the pinside price range says, find the middle and then double it! Some clueless asshat will come along and buy it, and destroy this hobby just a little bit more. What any game is actually worth, as well as condition, etc. is irrelevant anymore.
Are usually just try to get my money out of a pin and maybe A couple hundred for my efforts and shopping and all the other crap
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