Thank you sir!

Will do, thanks!

I know it's a long shot, but anyone want to sell me used/new/I cracked sling plastics? Def don't need a complete set, but maybe you replaced yours and have spares? Thanks!

Diner is such a mega fast game. Love it.

My two cents on the cup shot: I almost always see the max amount scored and then a few extra loops. No new ramps or cup, just nice polish. Make sure the switch doesn't resist the ball much. Should get 3.5M no problem.

I disagree that the switch is supposed to register only half the time -- I swear it chimes for each pass...

Hi. Yes I have converted the flippers to WPC fliptronic style. I have also leveled the field front and back.

Thanks for all the tips. Maybe I'll pick up a ramp next month. I think my field is at 6.3-4 now, so Ill double check tonight. Crap I didn't even realize I'd have to transfer the diverter plate over to the new ramp. Any suggestions for a rivet press that would fit in there? Ill probably buy one since I'll use it in the future. Found this ( http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=72 ). Might be an inexpensive solution.

Got the same as you and I get the scratched record sound when I plunge.

May be a different sound rom?

You need a proper press, not a kit that you hit with a mallet. Steady, even pressure - otherwise it's way too easy to break the plastic. This one is the standard:
http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html
At $200 it hurts a little, but if you plan to shop out games more than once or twice it's worth it. I wish I'd just bought myself one as I ended up spending $50 sending mine to a guy by the time I paid postage. The upper ramp transition flaps on Diner and Pinbot both tore, easy to understand why. So any older game with a ramp that raises is likely to need those replaced.

I have a sample and the scratch is there. Could no scratch=shooter lane switch bad?

I was wondering that myself...

Anyone here can guide me on how to remove the cash registar to install LEDs? Thanks

There are four screws on the register face that allow you to access the board with 555s mounted in it underneath. It's easy to get at and you can swap lamps topside. Make sure you have some slack from the wire harness and you're good.

Ty very much!

Hello,

Does anybody here have pictures of the back area of the Diner PF? All the area behind the cup? I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

Check out this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-issue-diner#post-1835483

Thank you very much!

So, here's a question: the penny "Extra Ball w/Lit" outlane lights have never once come on during a game of Diner for me. It isn't that the bulbs are burnt out, because they light during attract mode/in between games. What's the deal?

It should only come on on third ball if you made very low score on your first 2 balls. I don't know what the low score is but I bet it is very low since I never got them lit if I remember.

Since I usually get the 150 000 jukebox skillshot, that's pretty much 450 000 free. If the low score is any lower than than hitting max skillshot will prevent to benefit from that setting.

Pinbot is setup like that and I will get the extra ball outlanes lit once in a while.

Actually, according to pinball arcade rules, it says it's a 40 sec timer on your first 2 balls.

image_(resized).jpg

I'll have to look at the adjustments, I never noticed a consolation timer. Would be just the thing for those SDTM drains you never even get a chance to take a swat at...

Thinking of leaving the club as I need the $. Mine is a pretty nice copy with a restored and cleared pf by Capt Neo and many new parts. If you are in the Midwest area, let me know.

Sorry to see you go!

You'll be back!

Hello,

Last night I noticed that while playing a few games, the machine started registering the drop targets being hit, only thing is that the ball was not hitting any of the targets, in fact, at one point, the ball was being held by the flippers and the drop targets were registering like crazy! Any of you had this issue before? Any help is greatly appreciated

Not sure what type of drops System 11 games use but it sure sounds like you have either a dirty opto or a leaf switch that is to close together.

Thanks! Texas strong! I'll check for that

Do the black plastic clocks exist in the replacement world? How about the stickers? They seem to be out of stock where I have looked.

Decal looks available here. http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=1492

The usual suspects either don't have the plastic clock part listed, or have it listed as out of stock. I'll need a new decal as well, but the lip of my clock is broken where the set screw holds the shaft. Previous owner glued it to the shaft at one point and the glue let go recently when I moved the game from a show.

I just modeled the clock. Might have to make my own at some point. Not the buses one is glued back in place.

Are they ever going to make a Diner playfield????

Can anyone tell me what type/size of screws are supposed to hold the 2 ramps together. (where the metal part connect both ramps)

Also, what is the type/size used to connect the ramp and the cup?

I'm under the impression that the one installed on my machine are too big or something, as they pop out instead of being flat.

They are tiny Phillips flat head screws, don't know the size but tiny. Mine does not have the screws hlding the ramp to the cup but it's nt needed. The ramp sit tight and flat against the cup.

something like that.

http://cdn3.volusion.com/vj539.howo6/v/vspfiles/photos/1600000-2.jpg?1467974646

Yeah I would like to know the exact # if possible. The one used to replace old screws look like 1mm too large or something.

I might remove the ones on the cup then, cause they pop out like 4mm in the air. Don't think it's really good for the ball, or the cup scoring.

Lots of folks do, it is definitely the way to get max score.

I don't...I just let it spin. My best shots top off around 2.8M.

I can't see how nudging the game would help with the cup shot. I've had killer shots where I got more spins than it scores - top score on the cup is 3.2M. Has to be a perfectly clean shot.

Imagine a hula hoop. Nudging definitely adds to the score value.

sethbenjamin,Pinballgeek ,a clean coffee cup shot gives me 3.5 mil,however,if you just get it up there,the hula-hoop maneuver does it very well!! And yes i do it frequently! And about the ball registering in the cup,sometimes my ball is going so fast,it rides above the switch,and does miss a few spins!!

I'm blowing the saucers/ramp down coil fuse and could use help diagnosing why.

It will play seemingly many games before this happens, and replacing the fuse temporarily fixes the issue.

It happens either on startup and I don't notice it, or it happens when the ball hits the first saucer lock on the skill shot past the jukebox. Either way, it sticks there and doesn't kick out.

Not sure what can cause intermittent fuse blowing in a coil, so your testing tips are most welcome. Thanks!

Yes, 3.5 is the max, my mistake!

Well, shoot, I'm a hafta try that!

I had a similar issue with my Pinbot. The problem was the topper flashers + pop bumpers were drawing too many amps on the circuit. It is using a 4 amps slo-blow and it keeps blowing after a few plunge. I could have changed my topper flasher to LED but instead put in a 5 amps fuse and it solved it. I know I know, I should not have done that. Well, I spent lot of times troubleshooting it and found the circuit was peaking at around 5.5 amp for the time the flashers were going ON and the pops as well. Some said the 4 amps slo-blow should have held the peak but it did not, may be I had a bad set of fuses. The fuses were the single strand with the solder dot in the middle. I prefer the coil/spring ones design.

See if you can increase the fuse by 1 amp and if it fixes your problem. Some say it should only be a temp solution but hell of a good one... If not something is really drawing too much current most likely a short. that would need fixing. Check for pinched wires or lamp socket touching the kicker lugs or something. May be the lamp wire on the backboard.

You can test Amps with a DMM (min 10 amps) were the fuse goes. If you see it peak very high quickly remove it. If you see it peak just abobe the amp rating, try a slightly bigger fuse and cross your fingers.

Some says its normal for old electronics to draw more current since the conductivity is not as good as it used to be.

My 2 cents, I know nothing.

Thanks much -- I'll explore some options with this advice. Now that you mention it, a flasher on the same circuit (Hadji) was sticking on, and I replaced it with an LED a while back. Perhaps another is doing the same... And maybe this can ultimately be traced to the flasher transistor.

It was the flasher transistor. A small metal flake had fallen onto the transistor legs and shorted it on. I noticed after pulling the board and flicked it off. 100% fixed. *Eye-roll* Pinball amiright?

Pinball geek,yeah,i noticed that as well.Also,my TAFG glowed a lot under blacklight! Especially in the middle where the magnet is!!

That's cool, maybe it's time to test those UV LEDs...

On another topic, I'm currently changing rubbers on my Diner, and I want to remove the top left ramp. I noticed that there is a switch wire is going directly through the ramp plastic and is not held by a Tierap like the other ramp.

Is there a way to remove it other than unwelding the switch and weld it back after?

This what mine looked like when I did my restoration. Yeah the switch goes through the ramp. But it disconnect from under the playfield (or the back board) fortunately.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/54032729@N00/21933821059/in/album-72157659775055921/

Nice, I'll have a look at all these pics. I'm doing the same to remember how to put it all back together.

So you put back the register before installing the ramps?

BTW: Tu a pris ou tes cards, sont vraiment cool!?

Yeah, don't need to remove the register to remove the ramps, or may be only the register but not the lift ramp. Definitely not the lift ramp.

I was asked a lot about the cards. One can be found on the internet (Free Play) but the rules a cannot find. They were on the game when I got it.

I've changed most of the rubbers and I was wondering; is there an error in the manual? They list 3x (C 1 1/4 rubbers) and only 1x (F 3 1/2 rubbers). I'm stuck with a "C" that I don't know what to do with.

Also, when you want to change LEDs in the jukebox and the EAT. Can you do it without removing the back box? I was able to acces the LED with the playfield half lifted. But was wondering if it was the way to go, since you don't really see what you do. It would be kind of bad if you need to remove everything to change one bulb...

BTW I found the rule card on the net too. It's the last Diner file on that page.

http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/index.htm

Well done!