(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?


By Pinballgeek

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,163 posts
  • 162 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by sethbenjamin
  • Topic is favorited by 62 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 266 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20200519_161755 (resized).jpg
20200519_161712 (resized).jpg
20200519_125943_HDR (resized).jpg
20200518_202557_HDR (resized).jpg
Diner_drop_Decals.pdf (PDF preview)
dine time kit 2 (resized).jpg
dt1 (resized).jpg
dt2 (resized).jpg
61016001816__91AA3330-A14F-44BF-89CB-9A34732E245F (resized).JPG
7C89D481-ED76-4510-B1BD-E6771E6F4ABF (resized).jpeg
E7A085B0-712B-4172-8E1A-65BE2CF18687 (resized).jpeg
8F79EAF3-B523-4357-9574-4D4524611DE3 (resized).jpeg
252F47B6-1EB4-4E80-B24B-6CB74382AEBB (resized).jpeg
C4A1A68C-6249-4036-B482-D3D4F4ECE0FB (resized).jpeg
7D41F62C-DDFA-490E-9266-B5872E22FE60 (resized).jpeg
DA1435AC-5F5D-4DCF-9EF1-922A0224D290 (resized).jpeg

There are 1163 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 24.
#351 4 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

You'll be fine! Work methodically, soberly, and not in a hurry. Get help removing the playfield and reinstalling it.
Once it's out, you'll be able to look at things and understand them better than you did before. And you'll be able to clean off a lot of stuff that is dirty, as well as replace parts you didn't notice were broken or missing, and tighten things you didn't realize were loose. If you take advantage of having your playfield out and spend a few days tuning it up, you'll be amazed at how much more fun your old game is. A lot of people think that pinball used to be less exciting in the 80s, because they play games at arcades where the older games have never been properly shopped in decades, sitting alongside new Sterns and JJs that came off the assembly line a few months ago. (I'm looking at YOU, Pinball Wizard, up there in New Hampshire )
You may want to read Vid's guides to flipper rebuilding and pop bumper rebuilding. They're essential to getting your game to play the way it's meant to.
Also, don't forget to remove and clean the ball trough parts, and replace the balls! They get gross with age. Smooth metal parts mean clean, undamaged pinballs and less wear and faster play.

Thank you sir!

#352 4 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

The gate is finicky. If you lift it all the way up, it should activate the switch. (First try just the switch itself and make sure it's OK. Easy enough to replace, but usually the metal arms wear out before the actual switch itself.) Once you know the switch is OK, you need to shim up the gate with a washer or two. It may take a couple tries to get it dialed in. I just went through this process. It isn't hard, just fussy. Remember to test using a ball, not lifting it with your finger.
When you're done, get some Novus on that ramp!

Will do, thanks!

#353 4 years ago

I know it's a long shot, but anyone want to sell me used/new/I cracked sling plastics? Def don't need a complete set, but maybe you replaced yours and have spares? Thanks!

Diner is such a mega fast game. Love it.

My two cents on the cup shot: I almost always see the max amount scored and then a few extra loops. No new ramps or cup, just nice polish. Make sure the switch doesn't resist the ball much. Should get 3.5M no problem.

I disagree that the switch is supposed to register only half the time -- I swear it chimes for each pass...

#354 4 years ago
Quoted from pintime:

ArcadiusMaximus are your flippers converted to external return spring ? Is your playfield level from side to side ? I use a 6" level between slings to check . Even with strong working flippers it take a fairly clean shot to get a lot of spins in the coffee cup

Hi. Yes I have converted the flippers to WPC fliptronic style. I have also leveled the field front and back.

Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Indeed, you need a new ramp. (No amount of fussing over your EOS switches will help, or putting in stronger coils, or tinkering with the playfield pitch will help. Playfields are supposed to be pitched at 6.5 degrees, period. I've done all the other stuff and nothing helped. A new ramp made an immediate difference.) You'll also need to transfer the metal tabs from your existing ramp using rivets (insanely, they rivet new transition metal for you, but not the other stuff. Great.) Don't use pop rivets on things the ball will travel over (the diverter arm guide plate). Find somebody who has a rivet press if you don't have one...otherwise, nicked balls and playfield damage.
The switch is supposed to only register every other pass. Save the $5.

Thanks for all the tips. Maybe I'll pick up a ramp next month. I think my field is at 6.3-4 now, so Ill double check tonight. Crap I didn't even realize I'd have to transfer the diverter plate over to the new ramp. Any suggestions for a rivet press that would fit in there? Ill probably buy one since I'll use it in the future. Found this ( http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=72 ). Might be an inexpensive solution.

#355 4 years ago
Quoted from jasonp:

I have a Diner question ... My early sample game ( Yellow ramp / Dimond plate ) doesn't make the scratched record sound when I launch the ball. Anyone know of any other differences on the sample games?

Got the same as you and I get the scratched record sound when I plunge.

May be a different sound rom?

#356 4 years ago
Quoted from ArcadiusMaximus:

Any suggestions for a rivet press that would fit in there? Ill probably buy one since I'll use it in the future.

You need a proper press, not a kit that you hit with a mallet. Steady, even pressure - otherwise it's way too easy to break the plastic. This one is the standard:
http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html
At $200 it hurts a little, but if you plan to shop out games more than once or twice it's worth it. I wish I'd just bought myself one as I ended up spending $50 sending mine to a guy by the time I paid postage. The upper ramp transition flaps on Diner and Pinbot both tore, easy to understand why. So any older game with a ramp that raises is likely to need those replaced.

#357 4 years ago

I have a sample and the scratch is there. Could no scratch=shooter lane switch bad?

#358 4 years ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

I have a sample and the scratch is there. Could no scratch=shooter lane switch bad?

I was wondering that myself...

#359 4 years ago

Anyone here can guide me on how to remove the cash registar to install LEDs? Thanks

#360 4 years ago

There are four screws on the register face that allow you to access the board with 555s mounted in it underneath. It's easy to get at and you can swap lamps topside. Make sure you have some slack from the wire harness and you're good.

#361 4 years ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

There are four screws on the register face that allow you to access the board with 555s mounted in it underneath. It's easy to get at and you can swap lamps topside. Make sure you have some slack from the wire harness and you're good.

Ty very much!

2 weeks later
#362 4 years ago

Hello,

Does anybody here have pictures of the back area of the Diner PF? All the area behind the cup? I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

#363 4 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Hello,
Does anybody here have pictures of the back area of the Diner PF? All the area behind the cup? I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

Check out this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-system-11-issue-diner#post-1835483

#365 4 years ago

So, here's a question: the penny "Extra Ball w/Lit" outlane lights have never once come on during a game of Diner for me. It isn't that the bulbs are burnt out, because they light during attract mode/in between games. What's the deal?

#366 4 years ago

It should only come on on third ball if you made very low score on your first 2 balls. I don't know what the low score is but I bet it is very low since I never got them lit if I remember.

Since I usually get the 150 000 jukebox skillshot, that's pretty much 450 000 free. If the low score is any lower than than hitting max skillshot will prevent to benefit from that setting.

Pinbot is setup like that and I will get the extra ball outlanes lit once in a while.

#367 4 years ago

Actually, according to pinball arcade rules, it says it's a 40 sec timer on your first 2 balls.

image_(resized).jpg

#368 4 years ago

I'll have to look at the adjustments, I never noticed a consolation timer. Would be just the thing for those SDTM drains you never even get a chance to take a swat at...

2 weeks later
#369 3 years ago

Thinking of leaving the club as I need the $. Mine is a pretty nice copy with a restored and cleared pf by Capt Neo and many new parts. If you are in the Midwest area, let me know.

1 week later
#370 3 years ago
Quoted from Methos:

Thinking of leaving the club as I need the $.

Sorry to see you go!

You'll be back!

1 week later
#371 3 years ago

Hello,

Last night I noticed that while playing a few games, the machine started registering the drop targets being hit, only thing is that the ball was not hitting any of the targets, in fact, at one point, the ball was being held by the flippers and the drop targets were registering like crazy! Any of you had this issue before? Any help is greatly appreciated

#372 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Hello,
Last night I noticed that while playing a few games, the machine started registering the drop targets being hit, only thing is that the ball was not hitting any of the targets, in fact, at one point, the ball was being held by the flippers and the drop targets were registering like crazy! Any of you had this issue before? Any help is greatly appreciated

Not sure what type of drops System 11 games use but it sure sounds like you have either a dirty opto or a leaf switch that is to close together.

#373 3 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Not sure what type of drops System 11 games use but it sure sounds like you have either a dirty opto or a leaf switch that is to close together.

Thanks! Texas strong! I'll check for that

2 weeks later
#374 3 years ago

Do the black plastic clocks exist in the replacement world? How about the stickers? They seem to be out of stock where I have looked.

#376 3 years ago

The usual suspects either don't have the plastic clock part listed, or have it listed as out of stock. I'll need a new decal as well, but the lip of my clock is broken where the set screw holds the shaft. Previous owner glued it to the shaft at one point and the glue let go recently when I moved the game from a show.

#377 3 years ago

I just modeled the clock. Might have to make my own at some point. Not the buses one is glued back in place.

#378 3 years ago

Are they ever going to make a Diner playfield????

3 weeks later
#379 3 years ago

Can anyone tell me what type/size of screws are supposed to hold the 2 ramps together. (where the metal part connect both ramps)

Also, what is the type/size used to connect the ramp and the cup?

I'm under the impression that the one installed on my machine are too big or something, as they pop out instead of being flat.

#380 3 years ago

They are tiny Phillips flat head screws, don't know the size but tiny. Mine does not have the screws hlding the ramp to the cup but it's nt needed. The ramp sit tight and flat against the cup.

something like that.

http://cdn3.volusion.com/vj539.howo6/v/vspfiles/photos/1600000-2.jpg?1467974646

#381 3 years ago

when shooting the cup do any of you slightly nudge the machine back and forth the keep the momentum ?

#382 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

They are tiny Phillips flat head screws, don't know the size but tiny. Mine does not have the screws hlding the ramp to the cup but it's nt needed. The ramp sit tight and flat against the cup.
something like that.
http://cdn3.volusion.com/vj539.howo6/v/vspfiles/photos/1600000-2.jpg?1467974646

Yeah I would like to know the exact # if possible. The one used to replace old screws look like 1mm too large or something.

I might remove the ones on the cup then, cause they pop out like 4mm in the air. Don't think it's really good for the ball, or the cup scoring.

#383 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinballgeek:

when shooting the cup do any of you slightly nudge the machine back and forth the keep the momentum ?

Lots of folks do, it is definitely the way to get max score.

I don't...I just let it spin. My best shots top off around 2.8M.

#384 3 years ago

I can't see how nudging the game would help with the cup shot. I've had killer shots where I got more spins than it scores - top score on the cup is 3.2M. Has to be a perfectly clean shot.

#385 3 years ago

Imagine a hula hoop. Nudging definitely adds to the score value.

#386 3 years ago

sethbenjamin,Pinballgeek ,a clean coffee cup shot gives me 3.5 mil,however,if you just get it up there,the hula-hoop maneuver does it very well!! And yes i do it frequently! And about the ball registering in the cup,sometimes my ball is going so fast,it rides above the switch,and does miss a few spins!!

#387 3 years ago

I'm blowing the saucers/ramp down coil fuse and could use help diagnosing why.

It will play seemingly many games before this happens, and replacing the fuse temporarily fixes the issue.

It happens either on startup and I don't notice it, or it happens when the ball hits the first saucer lock on the skill shot past the jukebox. Either way, it sticks there and doesn't kick out.

Not sure what can cause intermittent fuse blowing in a coil, so your testing tips are most welcome. Thanks!

#388 3 years ago
Quoted from hawkmoon:

a clean coffee cup shot gives me 3.5 mil

Yes, 3.5 is the max, my mistake!

Quoted from hawkmoon:

if you just get it up there,the hula-hoop maneuver does it very well!!

Well, shoot, I'm a hafta try that!

#389 3 years ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

I'm blowing the saucers/ramp down coil fuse and could use help diagnosing why.
It will play seemingly many games before this happens, and replacing the fuse temporarily fixes the issue.
It happens either on startup and I don't notice it, or it happens when the ball hits the first saucer lock on the skill shot past the jukebox. Either way, it sticks there and doesn't kick out.
Not sure what can cause intermittent fuse blowing in a coil, so your testing tips are most welcome. Thanks!

I had a similar issue with my Pinbot. The problem was the topper flashers + pop bumpers were drawing too many amps on the circuit. It is using a 4 amps slo-blow and it keeps blowing after a few plunge. I could have changed my topper flasher to LED but instead put in a 5 amps fuse and it solved it. I know I know, I should not have done that. Well, I spent lot of times troubleshooting it and found the circuit was peaking at around 5.5 amp for the time the flashers were going ON and the pops as well. Some said the 4 amps slo-blow should have held the peak but it did not, may be I had a bad set of fuses. The fuses were the single strand with the solder dot in the middle. I prefer the coil/spring ones design.

See if you can increase the fuse by 1 amp and if it fixes your problem. Some say it should only be a temp solution but hell of a good one... If not something is really drawing too much current most likely a short. that would need fixing. Check for pinched wires or lamp socket touching the kicker lugs or something. May be the lamp wire on the backboard.

You can test Amps with a DMM (min 10 amps) were the fuse goes. If you see it peak very high quickly remove it. If you see it peak just abobe the amp rating, try a slightly bigger fuse and cross your fingers.

Some says its normal for old electronics to draw more current since the conductivity is not as good as it used to be.

My 2 cents, I know nothing.

#390 3 years ago

Thanks much -- I'll explore some options with this advice. Now that you mention it, a flasher on the same circuit (Hadji) was sticking on, and I replaced it with an LED a while back. Perhaps another is doing the same... And maybe this can ultimately be traced to the flasher transistor.

#391 3 years ago

It was the flasher transistor. A small metal flake had fallen onto the transistor legs and shorted it on. I noticed after pulling the board and flicked it off. 100% fixed. *Eye-roll* Pinball amiright?

#392 3 years ago

Has anyone else noticed that this game glows under blacklight especially the orange trim on the playfield and plastic.

#393 3 years ago

Pinball geek,yeah,i noticed that as well.Also,my TAFG glowed a lot under blacklight! Especially in the middle where the magnet is!!

#394 3 years ago

That's cool, maybe it's time to test those UV LEDs...

On another topic, I'm currently changing rubbers on my Diner, and I want to remove the top left ramp. I noticed that there is a switch wire is going directly through the ramp plastic and is not held by a Tierap like the other ramp.

Is there a way to remove it other than unwelding the switch and weld it back after?

#395 3 years ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

On another topic, I'm currently changing rubbers on my Diner, and I want to remove the top left ramp. I noticed that there is a switch wire is going directly through the ramp plastic and is not held by a Tierap like the other ramp.
Is there a way to remove it other than unwelding the switch and weld it back after?

This what mine looked like when I did my restoration. Yeah the switch goes through the ramp. But it disconnect from under the playfield (or the back board) fortunately.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/54032729@N00/21933821059/in/album-72157659775055921/

#396 3 years ago

Nice, I'll have a look at all these pics. I'm doing the same to remember how to put it all back together.

So you put back the register before installing the ramps?

BTW: Tu a pris ou tes cards, sont vraiment cool!?

#397 3 years ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

Nice, I'll have a look at all these pics. I'm doing the same to remember how to put it all back together.
So you put back the register before installing the ramps?
BTW: Tu a pris ou tes cards, sont vraiment cool!?

Yeah, don't need to remove the register to remove the ramps, or may be only the register but not the lift ramp. Definitely not the lift ramp.

I was asked a lot about the cards. One can be found on the internet (Free Play) but the rules a cannot find. They were on the game when I got it.

#398 3 years ago

I've changed most of the rubbers and I was wondering; is there an error in the manual? They list 3x (C 1 1/4 rubbers) and only 1x (F 3 1/2 rubbers). I'm stuck with a "C" that I don't know what to do with.

Also, when you want to change LEDs in the jukebox and the EAT. Can you do it without removing the back box? I was able to acces the LED with the playfield half lifted. But was wondering if it was the way to go, since you don't really see what you do. It would be kind of bad if you need to remove everything to change one bulb...

#399 3 years ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

I was asked a lot about the cards. One can be found on the internet (Free Play) but the rules a cannot find. They were on the game when I got it.

BTW I found the rule card on the net too. It's the last Diner file on that page.

http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/index.htm

#400 3 years ago
Quoted from Bagdad:

BTW I found the rule card on the net too. It's the last Diner file on that page.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/index.htm

Well done!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Laredo, TX
$ 18.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
There are 1163 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 24.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside