Trust me, i wasnt excites to (blindly) do it. I couldnt even see back there. All fixed.

Many thanks, but I'm almost done!

I'm going to turn the tables. Most people ask for images from other people. I can't understand why. If you post an image of what you have, it is highly likely someone will be able to help you fix what you have without having to consult a reference image. The wiring information documented in the manual is often more than adequate.

If you're still stuck, why don't you post an image of what you have? You've already admitted to blindly cutting wires so there's no risk of someone showing that you did something embarrassing by doing self inflicted damage (which happens more often than most people will publicly admit to).

People that are not tech savvy rely heavily on visual aides. Those who just wing it or cluelessly misinterpret the info in the manual, blow up their games!

So playfield swap complete. Love the game, bit have a spinning the cup question:

I have the m&m switch that senses the ball, which is superior, but it seems like the game's software only wishes to reward every other spin for points. Is there a software setting to change this? I want my spins, dammit.

Im having this same problem with my switch.

I doesnt seem to register spins the same as the mechanical one.

Can anyone else comment on this?

I can't comment on this new switch, but if I'm not mistaken, with the original switch and spinning the cup, it depended on whether it was your first spin of the cup or not as to whether each rotation counted or whether it took two rotations to equal one uptick of the value.

The way mine works, I believe it takes you two rotations to get it up to 2.5 mil and then each single rotation after that counts for 100k. It has to do with the letters in DINER. When you start a ball or game, they are already all lit and the ramp is ready for the first shot to open the diverter and the second shot to go up to the cup. If the letters on the playfield aren't lit, you relight them by right ramp shots, D I N E R with values of 25k, 50k, 75k, 100k and then when they are all lit, the values are 10X, which is where your cup spin points come from.

If you watch the letters on the playfield as you are spinning the cup, you will see them fill in in much the same sequence as when you are relighting the ramp.

It is registering them, as you see it spin past you'll see the display flicker every other spin that it doesnt award points.

It is operating correctly, spins 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 get you to 2.5M points. From 2.6-3.5M every spin counts for 100k.

I’m having an issue with my left flipper. It appears dead. I loosened the bolts to adjust the height in both flippers. Right flipper works fine.

I don’t see any disconnected wires.

I gather the first step would be to test the coil with the game off and it should measure 3-4 ohms? Anything higher should imply a failed coil?

Well, its either mechanical or elecrical.

If it moves properly by hand with the power off, and there is no binding, then its electrical.

Look for broken off wires on the cabinet flipper button or the coil on the flipper (which youve done).

Check the fuse maybe F6:

https://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_Diner_Tech_Chart.pdf

Checking ohms on the coil is good, but they last forever and seldom fail (although sometimes the coil wires break off the lugs).

Looking at the fuse list tells you the fuse number and location (or in the manual).

There is a schematic that you can follow the circuit path in the manual also.

Check the end of stroke switch.

That's not how mine works. Every loop counts regardless of how many times it has been hit.

Thats the way mine used to work with the mechanical switch.

Then it would stop adding points when the limit was reached.

Thank you for the advice.

I took a look at fuse F6. I inserted a new 2A slow blow and the left flipper is now working.

It appears that the fuse that was in there was a 2A fast blow?

I would have thought if the fuse was bad, both flippers would stop working, not just one.

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I have a MRS in now too. Maybe that’s why the cup scores are terrible.

I dunno, but Pinballgoddess complained immediately.

Youre welcome!

You can only really test fuses with an ohm meter or a buzz box etc...

Selling a set of cabinet decals for 200 if anyone needs them. Still in their tube. Too darn lazy to do it now that I did a playfield swap.

Who made them?

Great question. When I get home i shall check.

Just got home. They're classic arcade decals.

Anyone Need A new Repro Cup with decal
Still have some left. PM & let me know

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What is the cost on these? I did a full resto on my Diner but my cup is yellowed.

The Cup with the decal is 195.00 plus shipping

I have a fairly stupid question: when you first start a ball, is it normal for both drop target banks to fire in addition to the ball being kicked out into the shooter lane? I seem to feel that they go off even if they're in the upright position upon start, just want to be sure if this is normal or not. They work perfect in play and register just fine.

Yes mate normal.

Question about the Classic Arcades character decals sheet: https://classic-arcades.com/shop?keywords=diner&olsPage=products%2Fcyclone-insert-decals

I got this Mylar characters art replacement sheet with my game and was considering installing it. Not sure how though.

Is the idea to lay it down directly on top of the existing playfield art? Or do you need to sand things down first? And what about the Mylar that is on the playfield? Mine is original and bubbling in spots, hence why I wanted to put this on.

Nevermind. I realized I already asked this nine months ago. And the decal sheet for the characters doesn’t fit anyway. I placed it on the playfield just to see how it might look and it doesn’t line up. Like the scale at which it was printed was a bit too small.

Hi Guys, asking this for someone who isn't on Pinside.
Is there any place to tap into 12V and Ground (for a mod) on either the driver board or mpu?
It's actually for a Bugs Bunny but both machines use the System 11C board set.
Any help will be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance

Well it's time: my 15yo daughter helped begin the teardown and plans to lend assistance through the full playfield swap, hoping to finish in time for Louisville Expo this year.

What are some recommended enhancements for this that we should consider? I see a crystal-clear cup is available but don't want to blow the budget all around, so want to consider all the options first. Was thinking of art blades but I personally don't like the ill-fitting cut-paste clipart on the Pingraffix set. Anyone have photos of mirrors, and where to get them? I seem to recall there were hotdogs or something else available for the switch covers - Anyone know where to get those? Anything else fun available to consider?

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Your original PF looks really good. If you want to sell it I would love to have one for a lighted wall art project. Awesome seeing that your daughter is helping you.

Oh I assure you it's beat to hell... we were shocked at how filthy it got on location in the two+ years since I shopped it, and some areas were even furthered down to woodgrain and flaking beyond. The center area is comprised of overlays. But to your point it's not too bad for wall or ceiling art, so if we don't come up with space for same I'll keep you in mind for dibs

Thanks! Mine was completely destroyed but I did a full resto on it. Came out amazing.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diner-restoration#

Upkick pinball shop here on pinside. Got the hotdog, burger and Ice cream for my Dad's Diner. Looks great and he loves them
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1256-upkick-pinball

AH yes those are the ones, and I didn't know about the combo meal either... thanks for the info!

I have a cpr playfield and used my old one to frame and backlight for wall art this week.

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My preference is for clean, unaltered and unmodified games. So with that in mind, I would actually go with the new, crystal clear cup replacement over the hot dog or fries add-ons and the like. Just my two cents.

Yeah I'm with you there and normally I don't go for gewgaws, but I'm letting the 15yo girl have some input. She was all for the cup til she realized we could get blades and the food things for less combined... now she wants to try Retrobrite on our existing cup. Which I said probably won't work too well, and I reserve the right to overrule.

It's a now-or-never time for the cup tho. What a pita that thing is to remove and replace.

Just for a comparison, I bought a cup ~2 years ago and also decided to Retrobrite my existing cup. My Retrobrited cup turned out so well, I never installed my new one. No it does not look as clear but is completely acceptable.

I like Pinballlife BrightCaps POP Bumpers. They look nice and provide much needed lighting to the top of the normally dark upper playfield, I set them to flash react for added pop or you can set to constant. I prefer PDI mirror blades over Diner art blades.

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I am new to the forum and have a tech question. My Diner game has recently defaulted to 4-player mode. It immediately goes to 4-player after turn on and hitting the start button once. The multiple player select worked nomally for years. Any ideas how to troubleshoot this problem?

Check leaf switch behind the start button. Make sure it's not corroded, it should only make momentary contact when the button is pressed in. One credit for each time leaf switch makes contact. Make sure game is off when you clean the point of contact on the leaf switch.
Check that the button itself is operating correctly, should spring back after released. It could be sticking, if so take button off cabinet and clean.
.

I thought that was a leaf switch?

I would definitely go into switch test mode and see what the start button is doing.

Good catch, it is a leaf switch and edited my previous post as follows.

Check leaf switch behind the start button. Make sure it's not corroded, it should only make momentary contact when the button is pressed in. One credit for each time leaf switch makes contact. Make sure game is off when you clean the point of contact on the leaf switch.

Ok checked and cleaned contacts on the start/credit switch. No change. Still starts a 4-player game as soon as the button is pressed one time. Any other ideas?

Is it wired right?

How is the pricing set up in the settings. Is it on free play?

I'm a big fan of those as well (even moreso the version with a hollow core / outer ring only) and add them to most of my games; have a set lined up for this one already

I keep flip-flopping on blades, though. Sometimes I look and think "YES!" and other times it's more... meh. Not sure why.

No wiring changes since this problem started, and all wiring is factory. It is on free play. Did a successful factory reset of settings with no change on this problem.

Is the switch gapped right?