(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?

By Pinballgeek

9 years ago


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  • 1,829 posts
  • 217 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Mancave
  • Topic is favorited by 73 Pinsiders

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There are 1,829 posts in this topic. You are on page 37 of 37.
#1801 16 days ago
Quoted from zhu808:

Dude, at least take pictures first before you go snipping wires.

Trust me, i wasnt excites to (blindly) do it. I couldnt even see back there. All fixed.

#1802 16 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I have all my resto pics stored somewhere if you get stuck. Should have just about every pic possible.

Many thanks, but I'm almost done!

#1803 16 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

Many thanks, but I'm almost done!

I'm going to turn the tables. Most people ask for images from other people. I can't understand why. If you post an image of what you have, it is highly likely someone will be able to help you fix what you have without having to consult a reference image. The wiring information documented in the manual is often more than adequate.

If you're still stuck, why don't you post an image of what you have? You've already admitted to blindly cutting wires so there's no risk of someone showing that you did something embarrassing by doing self inflicted damage (which happens more often than most people will publicly admit to).

#1804 15 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I'm going to turn the tables. Most people ask for images from other people. I can't understand why. If you post an image of what you have, it is highly likely someone will be able to help you fix what you have without having to consult a reference image. The wiring information documented in the manual is often more than adequate.
If you're still stuck, why don't you post an image of what you have? You've already admitted to blindly cutting wires so there's no risk of someone showing that you did something embarrassing by doing self inflicted damage (which happens more often than most people will publicly admit to).

People that are not tech savvy rely heavily on visual aides. Those who just wing it or cluelessly misinterpret the info in the manual, blow up their games!

#1805 13 days ago

So playfield swap complete. Love the game, bit have a spinning the cup question:

I have the m&m switch that senses the ball, which is superior, but it seems like the game's software only wishes to reward every other spin for points. Is there a software setting to change this? I want my spins, dammit.

#1806 13 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

So playfield swap complete. Love the game, bit have a spinning the cup question:
I have the m&m switch that senses the ball, which is superior, but it seems like the game's software only wishes to reward every other spin for points. Is there a software setting to change this? I want my spins, dammit.

Im having this same problem with my switch.

I doesnt seem to register spins the same as the mechanical one.

Can anyone else comment on this?

#1807 13 days ago

I can't comment on this new switch, but if I'm not mistaken, with the original switch and spinning the cup, it depended on whether it was your first spin of the cup or not as to whether each rotation counted or whether it took two rotations to equal one uptick of the value.

The way mine works, I believe it takes you two rotations to get it up to 2.5 mil and then each single rotation after that counts for 100k. It has to do with the letters in DINER. When you start a ball or game, they are already all lit and the ramp is ready for the first shot to open the diverter and the second shot to go up to the cup. If the letters on the playfield aren't lit, you relight them by right ramp shots, D I N E R with values of 25k, 50k, 75k, 100k and then when they are all lit, the values are 10X, which is where your cup spin points come from.

If you watch the letters on the playfield as you are spinning the cup, you will see them fill in in much the same sequence as when you are relighting the ramp.

#1808 13 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im having this same problem with my switch.
I doesnt seem to register spins the same as the mechanical one.
Can anyone else comment on this?

It is registering them, as you see it spin past you'll see the display flicker every other spin that it doesnt award points.

#1809 13 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

So playfield swap complete. Love the game, bit have a spinning the cup question:
I have the m&m switch that senses the ball, which is superior, but it seems like the game's software only wishes to reward every other spin for points. Is there a software setting to change this? I want my spins, dammit.

It is operating correctly, spins 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 get you to 2.5M points. From 2.6-3.5M every spin counts for 100k.

#1810 12 days ago

I’m having an issue with my left flipper. It appears dead. I loosened the bolts to adjust the height in both flippers. Right flipper works fine.

I don’t see any disconnected wires.

I gather the first step would be to test the coil with the game off and it should measure 3-4 ohms? Anything higher should imply a failed coil?

#1811 12 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I’m having an issue with my left flipper. It appears dead. I loosened the bolts to adjust the height in both flippers. Right flipper works fine.
I don’t see any disconnected wires.
I gather the first step would be to test the coil with the game off and it should measure 3-4 ohms? Anything higher should imply a failed coil?

Well, its either mechanical or elecrical.

If it moves properly by hand with the power off, and there is no binding, then its electrical.

Look for broken off wires on the cabinet flipper button or the coil on the flipper (which youve done).

Check the fuse maybe F6:

https://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_Diner_Tech_Chart.pdf

Checking ohms on the coil is good, but they last forever and seldom fail (although sometimes the coil wires break off the lugs).

Looking at the fuse list tells you the fuse number and location (or in the manual).

There is a schematic that you can follow the circuit path in the manual also.

Check the end of stroke switch.

#1812 12 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I can't comment on this new switch, but if I'm not mistaken, with the original switch and spinning the cup, it depended on whether it was your first spin of the cup or not as to whether each rotation counted or whether it took two rotations to equal one uptick of the value.
The way mine works, I believe it takes you two rotations to get it up to 2.5 mil and then each single rotation after that counts for 100k. It has to do with the letters in DINER. When you start a ball or game, they are already all lit and the ramp is ready for the first shot to open the diverter and the second shot to go up to the cup. If the letters on the playfield aren't lit, you relight them by right ramp shots, D I N E R with values of 25k, 50k, 75k, 100k and then when they are all lit, the values are 10X, which is where your cup spin points come from.
If you watch the letters on the playfield as you are spinning the cup, you will see them fill in in much the same sequence as when you are relighting the ramp.

That's not how mine works. Every loop counts regardless of how many times it has been hit.

#1813 12 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

That's not how mine works. Every loop counts regardless of how many times it has been hit.

Thats the way mine used to work with the mechanical switch.

Then it would stop adding points when the limit was reached.

#1814 12 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Well, its either mechanical or elecrical.
If it moves properly by hand with the power off, and there is no binding, then its electrical.
Look for broken off wires on the cabinet flipper button or the coil on the flipper (which youve done).
Check the fuse maybe F6:
https://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_Diner_Tech_Chart.pdf
Checking ohms on the coil is good, but they last forever and seldom fail (although sometimes the coil wires break off the lugs).
Looking at the fuse list tells you the fuse number and location (or in the manual).
There is a schematic that you can follow the circuit path in the manual also.
Check the end of stroke switch.

Thank you for the advice.

I took a look at fuse F6. I inserted a new 2A slow blow and the left flipper is now working.

It appears that the fuse that was in there was a 2A fast blow?

I would have thought if the fuse was bad, both flippers would stop working, not just one.

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#1815 12 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Thats the way mine used to work with the mechanical switch.
Then it would stop adding points when the limit was reached.

I have a MRS in now too. Maybe that’s why the cup scores are terrible.

#1816 12 days ago
Quoted from Sethman:

I have a MRS in now too. Maybe that’s why the cup scores are terrible.

I dunno, but Pinballgoddess complained immediately.

#1817 12 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Thank you for the advice.
I took a look at fuse F6. I inserted a new 2A slow blow and the left flipper is now working.
It appears that the fuse that was in there was a 2A fast blow?
I would have thought if the fuse was bad, both flippers would stop working, not just one. [quoted image]

Youre welcome!

You can only really test fuses with an ohm meter or a buzz box etc...

#1818 11 days ago

Selling a set of cabinet decals for 200 if anyone needs them. Still in their tube. Too darn lazy to do it now that I did a playfield swap.

#1819 11 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

Selling a set of cabinet decals for 200 if anyone needs them. Still in their tube. Too darn lazy to do it now that I did a playfield swap.

Who made them?

#1820 11 days ago

Great question. When I get home i shall check.

Just got home. They're classic arcade decals.

#1821 8 days ago

Anyone Need A new Repro Cup with decal
Still have some left. PM & let me know

20211231_132956 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20211231-132901_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20211231-132908_Gallery (resized).jpg

#1822 8 days ago
Quoted from mike200mph:

Anyone Need A new Repro Cup with decal
Still have some left. PM & let me know
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What is the cost on these? I did a full resto on my Diner but my cup is yellowed.

#1823 8 days ago

The Cup with the decal is 195.00 plus shipping

#1825 5 days ago

I have a fairly stupid question: when you first start a ball, is it normal for both drop target banks to fire in addition to the ball being kicked out into the shooter lane? I seem to feel that they go off even if they're in the upright position upon start, just want to be sure if this is normal or not. They work perfect in play and register just fine.

#1826 4 days ago
Quoted from jorant:

I have a fairly stupid question: when you first start a ball, is it normal for both drop target banks to fire in addition to the ball being kicked out into the shooter lane? I seem to feel that they go off even if they're in the upright position upon start, just want to be sure if this is normal or not. They work perfect in play and register just fine.

Yes mate normal.

#1827 4 days ago

Question about the Classic Arcades character decals sheet: https://classic-arcades.com/shop?keywords=diner&olsPage=products%2Fcyclone-insert-decals

I got this Mylar characters art replacement sheet with my game and was considering installing it. Not sure how though.

Is the idea to lay it down directly on top of the existing playfield art? Or do you need to sand things down first? And what about the Mylar that is on the playfield? Mine is original and bubbling in spots, hence why I wanted to put this on.

#1828 4 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Question about the Classic Arcades character decals sheet: https://classic-arcades.com/shop?keywords=diner&olsPage=products%2Fcyclone-insert-decals
I got this Mylar characters art replacement sheet with my game and was considering installing it. Not sure how though.
Is the idea to lay it down directly on top of the existing playfield art? Or do you need to sand things down first? And what about the Mylar that is on the playfield? Mine is original and bubbling in spots, hence why I wanted to put this on.

Nevermind. I realized I already asked this nine months ago. And the decal sheet for the characters doesn’t fit anyway. I placed it on the playfield just to see how it might look and it doesn’t line up. Like the scale at which it was printed was a bit too small.

#1829 3 days ago

Hi Guys, asking this for someone who isn't on Pinside.
Is there any place to tap into 12V and Ground (for a mod) on either the driver board or mpu?
It's actually for a Bugs Bunny but both machines use the System 11C board set.
Any help will be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance

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