(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 89 days ago by Sonic
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There are 2,027 posts in this topic. You are on page 36 of 41.
#1751 1 year ago

20221023_212433 (resized).jpg20221023_212433 (resized).jpgDoes the Chef flasher have a use? It's not in the test menu and mine doesn't have a wire in the connector.
It's the secondoin down
20221023_204418 (resized).jpg20221023_204418 (resized).jpg

Also those with a MRS for their cup, where did you place yours? I had mine where pictured, just to the right of the original switch slot. But I was getting false activations if the diverter was open and the ball was up near the rollover lanes. Very weird!
20221023_212433 (resized).jpg20221023_212433 (resized).jpg

#1752 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Also those with a MRS for their cup, where did you place yours? I had mine where pictured, just to the right of the original switch slot. But I was getting false activations if the diverter was open and the ball was up near the rollover lanes. Very weird!
[quoted image]

Hey Dave - here to help! The MRS is likely false registering due to a interfering magnetic field - seemingly from the diverter being activated - but without being there to know for sure a rule of thumb is it's always going to be the coil in closest proximity that may cause interference....some coils do, some don't - this is due to the varying magnetic fields/intensities...but that all said...it's a game of millimeters, not inches - so simply moving your MRS to a slightly different location will do the trick...one of the things we preach about MRS' is that they can go wherever it makes sense (pun intended) for them to go to be discreet and still function - they do NOT have to go where the original switches were....so experiment a little my moving it along the circumference of the cup, and it'll stop with the false registration...

let me know how it goes!

matt

#1753 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

[quoted image]Does the Chef flasher have a use? It's not in the test menu and mine doesn't have a wire in the connector.
It's the secondoin down
[quoted image]
Also those with a MRS for their cup, where did you place yours? I had mine where pictured, just to the right of the original switch slot. But I was getting false activations if the diverter was open and the ball was up near the rollover lanes. Very weird!
[quoted image]

I put my MRS to the left of the hole in the cup and it works perfectly.

However, super fast balls spinning around the cup fail to register.

I tested this out against a brand new switch. Properly adjusted the mechanical switch doesnt miss a beat.

It can be the difference in points from 3 mil to 4 mil.

After installing the MRS I never had a 4 mil cup spin again. Lots of them with the mechanical switch.

Its a great switch but super fast balls can make it fail to regiser in my game.

#1754 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I put my MRS to the left of the hole in the cup and it works perfectly.
However, super fast balls spinning around the cup fail to register.
I tested this out against a brand new switch. Properly adjusted the mechanical switch doesnt miss a beat.
It can be the difference in points from 3 mil to 4 mil.
After installing the MRS I never had a 4 mil cup spin again. Lots of them with the mechanical switch.
Its a great switch but super fast balls can make it fail to regiser in my game.

That shouldn't be as the MRS is contactless and far more responsive than a conventional microswitch...however, given that yours is almost 3 years old now...and we've redesigned it a few times since then (it's half the size for example) ...I'd be curious to see yours again, if you care to remove it and send it back...if it doesn't perform to the current testing standard, then I'll replace it with a newer one...it may be simply a sensitivity difference as we've increased the sensitivity over time...

Matt
M&M Creations

#1755 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

That shouldn't be as the MRS is contactless and far more responsive than a conventional microswitch...however, given that yours is almost 3 years old now...and we've redesigned it a few times since then (it's half the size for example) ...I'd be curious to see yours again, if you care to remove it and send it back...if it doesn't perform to the current testing standard, then I'll replace it with a newer one...it may be simply a sensitivity difference as we've increased the sensitivity over time...
Matt
M&M Creations

I may just do that.

Ill PM you about it.

#1756 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Hey Dave - here to help! The MRS is likely false registering due to a interfering magnetic field - seemingly from the diverter being activated - but without being there to know for sure a rule of thumb is it's always going to be the coil in closest proximity that may cause interference....some coils do, some don't - this is due to the varying magnetic fields/intensities...but that all said...it's a game of millimeters, not inches - so simply moving your MRS to a slightly different location will do the trick...one of the things we preach about MRS' is that they can go wherever it makes sense (pun intended) for them to go to be discreet and still function - they do NOT have to go where the original switches were....so experiment a little my moving it along the circumference of the cup, and it'll stop with the false registration...
let me know how it goes!
matt

Hi Matt,
Interesting about the coil, that didn't occur to me and I was thinking it was the ramp flap above it, although that might not even be magnetic?
Sometimes it wasn't registering for a spin and in a test I noticed the MRS was stuck on.

Until a few months ago I had it lined up with the hole like the original switch, but the adhesive failed and it fell off at the UK Open in a finals round!
Since being home and fiddling I can't get it to stick. I've got a roll of double sided tape and it keeps falling off after a few days.
It's probably the quality of the tape or it not being cleaned well before reapplying. What tape would you reccomend?

#1757 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I put my MRS to the left of the hole in the cup and it works perfectly.
However, super fast balls spinning around the cup fail to register.
I tested this out against a brand new switch. Properly adjusted the mechanical switch doesnt miss a beat.
It can be the difference in points from 3 mil to 4 mil.
After installing the MRS I never had a 4 mil cup spin again. Lots of them with the mechanical switch.
Its a great switch but super fast balls can make it fail to regiser in my game.

4mil, are you sure?
Mine stops at 3.5mil no matter if it keeps some spinning. It might be my ROM version though.

#1758 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

4mil, are you sure?
Mine stops at 3.5mil no matter if it keeps some spinning. It might be my ROM version though.

The cap on cup spins on my game is 3.5 mil as well.

I've noticed that the metal flap that is on the vertical side of the cup is hindering the fast ball shots and slowing it down some. Like I think my flap is angled down just a little too much and the left hand corner is slightly below the point on the cup wall where the ball should be whipping around when going quick. I never get missed laps from the switch, but sometimes this lower corner of the flap takes enough speed off the ball that it will only get to 2.9 mil or low 3's.

#1759 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Hi Matt,
Interesting about the coil, that didn't occur to me and I was thinking it was the ramp flap above it, although that might not even be magnetic?
Sometimes it wasn't registering for a spin and in a test I noticed the MRS was stuck on.
Until a few months ago I had it lined up with the hole like the original switch, but the adhesive failed and it fell off at the UK Open in a finals round!
Since being home and fiddling I can't get it to stick. I've got a roll of double sided tape and it keeps falling off after a few days.
It's probably the quality of the tape or it not being cleaned well before reapplying. What tape would you reccomend?

Cleanliness is next to pinliness! That's the key, because the tape we use is MORE than strong enough to hold a 2 ounce MRS...we include alcohol pads with every order, and try to emphasize cleaning the spot well....as no matter how clean we think our pins are - boy they aren't. Was your cup fairly new perhaps (repro)?...Use a good quality, thin, 2-sided tape for mobile phone/tablet screen repairs like this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWRV1ZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Matt
M&M Creations

#1760 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

[quoted image]Does the Chef flasher have a use? It's not in the test menu and mine doesn't have a wire in the connector.

Nope, the Chef flasher isn't hooked up on any Diner I've seen.

#1761 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Cleanliness is next to pinliness! That's the key, because the tape we use is MORE than strong enough to hold a 2 ounce MRS...we include alcohol pads with every order, and try to emphasize cleaning the spot well....as no matter how clean we think our pins are - boy they aren't. Was your cup fairly new perhaps (repro)?...Use a good quality, thin, 2-sided tape for mobile phone/tablet screen repairs like this stuff:
amazon.com link »
Matt
M&M Creations

I'll try get some tape similar to what you've reccomended.. I don't think your tape was at fault. I probably hadn't cleaned it well or I'd readjusted it a few times.
I've been using some tape I've got and it'll at least work for trying to find the sweet spot.

I'd really like it to sit around 12 o clock on the cup so you get a switch register before the ball falls down

#1762 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

4mil, are you sure?
Mine stops at 3.5mil no matter if it keeps some spinning. It might be my ROM version though.

Ill look into it a bit more.

#1763 1 year ago

What’s this Chef flasher mentioned?

#1764 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

What’s this Chef flasher mentioned?

It’s the flasher in the backbox which is behind the chef on the spring. There’s a flash lamp in there but no wire or power to flash it.

#1765 1 year ago

Does anyone have pics of the elevator ramp flap that's attached to the bracket. Ours came hacked and it often causes air balls at the top of the ramp and the impact knocks the flasher out on the right.

I'm taking it to someone who can rivet so will try to return it to how it should be but I'm a bit worried, "if it ain't broke don't fix it".

I thought it would be the same blue steel as the ramp flaps but I wonder if it's thicker as wouldn't the ramp sag when the ball goes up as it's only supported by the elevator arm?

20221027_211634 (resized).jpg20221027_211634 (resized).jpg20221027_211639 (resized).jpg20221027_211639 (resized).jpg20221027_211644 (resized).jpg20221027_211644 (resized).jpg

#1766 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Does anyone have pics of the elevator ramp flap that's attached to the bracket. Ours came hacked and it often causes air balls at the top of the ramp and the impact knocks the flasher out on the right.
I'm taking it to someone who can rivet so will try to return it to how it should be but I'm a bit worried, "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
I thought it would be the same blue steel as the ramp flaps but I wonder if it's thicker as wouldn't the ramp sag when the ball goes up as it's only supported by the elevator arm?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have this picture. We are going to swap out new flaps from Cliffy soon too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/order-up-a-diner-playfield-swap#post-7104094

#1767 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:

I have this picture. We are going to swap out new flaps from Cliffy soon too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/order-up-a-diner-playfield-swap#post-7104094

Oh my god look at that!
We had one of those CPR playfields but wasn't a fan of the yellow instead of green. So we sent it back as they'll do another run next year and we'd not have done the swap for a year anyway...

But, gosh it looks beautiful.
The flap though, is it thicker than a standard ramp flap?

It's hard to tell on yours but on another thread it looks thicker, but may have been an exception.

#1768 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Does anyone have pics of the elevator ramp flap that's attached to the bracket. Ours came hacked and it often causes air balls at the top of the ramp and the impact knocks the flasher out on the right.
I'm taking it to someone who can rivet so will try to return it to how it should be but I'm a bit worried, "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
I thought it would be the same blue steel as the ramp flaps but I wonder if it's thicker as wouldn't the ramp sag when the ball goes up as it's only supported by the elevator arm?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

thats not too bad of a repair from someone with no tools or parts IMO...

I would just buy the complete cliffys kit and rebuild it after cleaning it up a bit.

Rivets are super easy to install.

Get the assortment from @JodyG, it comes with the $30 hanson rivet tool that's pretty easy to use :

https://rampomatic.com/collections/hardware/products/complete-riveting-assortment

Or Get the Pintonka rivet tool, its incredibly easy to get perfect results:

https://www.pintonka.mountainminded.net/

Dont use pop-rivets, the aluminum ones wear out quickly, get loose etc.
Semi-tubular is the way to go.

#1769 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Oh my god look at that!
We had one of those CPR playfields but wasn't a fan of the yellow instead of green. So we sent it back as they'll do another run next year and we'd not have done the swap for a year anyway...
But, gosh it looks beautiful.
The flap though, is it thicker than a standard ramp flap?
It's hard to tell on yours but on another thread it looks thicker, but may have been an exception.

Sorry I didn’t make it clear This ramp flap in picture is an original. We are putting on new ones as the original was bent in a week or so.

As for the playfield, you’d have to ask the owner. I know he and I both thought the first run wasn’t up to snuff. This run is better but I would say it needs more work to be correct.

#1770 1 year ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Sorry I didn’t make it clear This ramp flap in picture is an original. We are putting on new ones as the original was bent in a week or so.
As for the playfield, you’d have to ask the owner. I know he and I both thought the first run wasn’t up to snuff. This run is better but I would say it needs more work to be correct.

I went through your thread and it was definitely inspiring but also daunting!

You do mean the ramp flap at the top of the elevator ramp? I'm hoping a friend can do a new one for me and post it back, we have an event at our house on the 13th of November so need it working by then, it's a little risky!
So no time to order stuff from the states or cliffy, but I do wonder what his flap is like, is it going to be as thick as the original?

#1771 1 year ago

I assume it would be. His stuff is good.

1 week later
#1772 1 year ago

Question for owners:
The lock shot under left ramp. Do you have cases where the shot is not registering for the lock and blows past the saucer?
Since going to a new CPR playfield I'm getting a decent amount of lock shots not stopping and end up back into the lanes up top or pops. Wondering if its because of the new, faster playfield with clear versus the old, slower original playfield which didn't seem to ever have that issue.

Also, right ramp shot into cup. I have new starship ramps and new cup. Rebuilt left flipper has enough strength to make the ramp fine for triggering diverter, but then making the longer / steeper shot into the cup I'm finding the ball doesn't have enough "umph" to make decent revolutions in the cup (yes I have a MRS switch so no resistance of normal switch). And the EOS has been set correctly, the flipper has plenty of power. Anyone else with similar experience?

Thanks.

#1773 1 year ago

I think with the cup it’s a little like the taxi spin out. Crazy infuriating to set up correctly but when it’s dialled in it’s sweet.
Maybe try a slow mo video and see if there’s a snag somewhere like the switch gate into the cup etc..

#1774 1 year ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Question for owners:
The lock shot under left ramp. Do you have cases where the shot is not registering for the lock and blows past the saucer?
Since going to a new CPR playfield I'm getting a decent amount of lock shots not stopping and end up back into the lanes up top or pops. Wondering if its because of the new, faster playfield with clear versus the old, slower original playfield which didn't seem to ever have that issue.
Also, right ramp shot into cup. I have new starship ramps and new cup. Rebuilt left flipper has enough strength to make the ramp fine for triggering diverter, but then making the longer / steeper shot into the cup I'm finding the ball doesn't have enough "umph" to make decent revolutions in the cup (yes I have a MRS switch so no resistance of normal switch). And the EOS has been set correctly, the flipper has plenty of power. Anyone else with similar experience?
Thanks.

I have an original playfield that is clear coated and plays super fast and I never have a shot blow past the lock. Did you forget a piece under there possibly?
As far as the cup, learn to time the nudge, front to back, and you can max the cup value.

#1775 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I have an original playfield that is clear coated and plays super fast and I never have a shot blow past the lock. Did you forget a piece under there possibly?
As far as the cup, learn to time the nudge, front to back, and you can max the cup value.

For lock shot, there’s not really much to it. There’s an angled bracket with rubber pad directly below the saucer hole, and a 1 way gate leading out back into the lane/pop area.
Only thing I can guess at is the angled bracket/stopper isn’t doing a good enough job.

#1776 1 year ago
Quoted from Sethman:

For lock shot, there’s not really much to it. There’s an angled bracket with rubber pad directly below the saucer hole, and a 1 way gate leading out back into the lane/pop area.
Only thing I can guess at is the angled bracket/stopper isn’t doing a good enough job.

Yeah, wasn't sure if you possibly left out the bracket. Maybe it's not bent enough or something. Something seems off though.

#1777 1 year ago

Anyone have mirror blades on their Diner? Please post pics.
Thanks!

#1778 1 year ago
Quoted from zhu808:

Anyone have mirror blades on their Diner? Please post pics.
Thanks!

I have but can only find 2 pics and they’re pretty useless at showing how cool they look. I’ll try and remember to post more later if no one else has

39092BB0-29DD-4F32-A334-CC5FBEECCE0C (resized).jpeg39092BB0-29DD-4F32-A334-CC5FBEECCE0C (resized).jpeg395856CE-7AE2-4577-8501-F5B52BB6AE76 (resized).jpeg395856CE-7AE2-4577-8501-F5B52BB6AE76 (resized).jpeg
#1779 1 year ago

Anybody know why it says to install 3 balls but the multi ball is only 2 balls? That doesn't seem to make sense.

#1780 1 year ago
Quoted from Flippingr8:

Anybody know why it says to install 3 balls but the multi ball is only 2 balls? That doesn't seem to make sense.

Lots on Diner point to it being unfinished, features being cut or it intending to be more...

There's two switches under the todays special hole, when only one has a use. As if you could lock two balls.

Customers request two items and the items inserts flash pointing to specific drop targets but you have to drop all the drop targets which confuses new players.

It definitely feels like Diner had more potential or cut ideas at the coding and rules stage and there being 3 balls is another indication of this...

Unless anyone else has any other ideas (or can ask Mark Ritchie).

#1781 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:

Lots on Diner point to it being unfinished, features being cut or it intending to be more...
There's two switches under the todays special hole, when only one has a use. As if you could lock two balls.
Customers request two items and the items inserts flash pointing to specific drop targets but you have to drop all the drop targets which confuses new players.
It definitely feels like Diner had more potential or cut ideas at the coding and rules stage and there being 3 balls is another indication of this...
Unless anyone else has any other ideas (or can ask Mark Ritchie).

I always wondered what other modes they were thinking of to add, the game has quite a bit in it for a System 11, or at least on par with other System 11s.

For the catapult under the playfield I felt had 2 switches though so the game would never lose track of a ball. I tried dumping two balls in it simultaneously and 1 kicked out on the first firing, then the second one. But the game would function with only one as well.

#1782 1 year ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

I have but can only find 2 pics and they’re pretty useless at showing how cool they look. I’ll try and remember to post more later if no one else has [quoted image][quoted image]

Looks pretty sweet - thanks! Seems like that "chrome" look really fits with the theme. Other arts blades I've seen are either tacky or a bit too much.

#1783 1 year ago

Is anyone able to recommend a replacement Translite, as I know several places are currently selling them. Unfortunatly the one I bought is missing the Williams logo and doesn't look that good. I also bought a CPR mirrored back glass, but was really not happy with the colours on it. Interested to know what the best option is or alternatively if anyone has a NOS Original Translite they would be willing to sell to me?

Thanks
Andy

#1784 1 year ago

I'm about to enter the club sunday. I'm going to do a restore. Anything I should know? The playfield swap looks fairly easy.

What about putting decals on? Is this directly printed on? It does seem like decals are applied on this from the factory but directly printed on?

#1785 1 year ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

I'm about to enter the club sunday. I'm going to do a restore. Anything I should know? The playfield swap looks fairly easy.
What about putting decals on? Is this directly printed on? It does seem like decals are applied on this from the factory but directly printed on?

Cabinet art is stenciled paint.

#1786 1 year ago
Quoted from zhu808:

Cabinet art is stenciled paint.

Perfect.

#1787 1 year ago
Quoted from Sethman:

Question for owners:
The lock shot under left ramp. Do you have cases where the shot is not registering for the lock and blows past the saucer?
Since going to a new CPR playfield I'm getting a decent amount of lock shots not stopping and end up back into the lanes up top or pops. Wondering if its because of the new, faster playfield with clear versus the old, slower original playfield which didn't seem to ever have that issue.
Also, right ramp shot into cup. I have new starship ramps and new cup. Rebuilt left flipper has enough strength to make the ramp fine for triggering diverter, but then making the longer / steeper shot into the cup I'm finding the ball doesn't have enough "umph" to make decent revolutions in the cup (yes I have a MRS switch so no resistance of normal switch). And the EOS has been set correctly, the flipper has plenty of power. Anyone else with similar experience?
Thanks.

Quoted from Tomass:

I have an original playfield that is clear coated and plays super fast and I never have a shot blow past the lock. Did you forget a piece under there possibly?
As far as the cup, learn to time the nudge, front to back, and you can max the cup value.

Quoted from Sethman:

For lock shot, there’s not really much to it. There’s an angled bracket with rubber pad directly below the saucer hole, and a 1 way gate leading out back into the lane/pop area.
Only thing I can guess at is the angled bracket/stopper isn’t doing a good enough job.

Quoted from Tomass:

Yeah, wasn't sure if you possibly left out the bracket. Maybe it's not bent enough or something. Something seems off though.

My Diner does that sometimes too. Especially on strong, crisp shots into that leftside entrance under the ramp. They blow through unless you kind of baby the shot a little. But then at other times it grabs it pretty consistently.

Not sure why, though I figured it was something about that angled bracket and pad too. Like it doesn't slow it down enough or take the energy out of it, and so even when it hits the bracket, it bounces through the one-way gate. My playfield is not Diamond Plate and there is still Mylar on it. I wouldn't say it's lightning fast and perfect, but it's not that bad either.

Here's a couple pics I took when I had part of that area torn down. I still need to remove everything to do a couple more rubber rings. Anyone see something not angled or set-up correctly?

IMG_6694 (resized).JPGIMG_6694 (resized).JPGIMG_6695 (resized).JPGIMG_6695 (resized).JPGIMG_6696 (resized).JPGIMG_6696 (resized).JPG
#1788 1 year ago

Hey all. How do i remove the back wall of the playfield off. WhT is holding i to the playfield? I intend to justprop up the playfield and feel around for screws, bit i wanna know how many ans where theyre being held in at

#1789 1 year ago

I wouldn't even attempt taking the backboard off without taking the playfield out of the cabinet, which you should be able to do with the help of another. There are only 9 electrical connectors anyway so not much to disconnect in order to remove the playfield to a workbench.

To answer your question there are 4 wood screws in positions marked X in pic plus 4 bolts holding the cup in place circled in pic, plus 4 or 5 electrical connectors that need to come off. And even with this lot disconnected you will not be able to get the backboard out without removing the cup too, so there are 2 small screws that join the cup to the right ramp. You may also need to remove the right ramp fully and also the left U shaped ramp too, as I found that I couldn't remove the backboard and cup without doing so - the cup and board need to come directly upwards and the ramps get in the way - there isn't enough jiggle room to get them out and I didn't want to risk breaking anything.. And I was doing this last weekend with playfield out of the machine, so expect it will be an impossible task to remove and replace the backboard with the playfield in situ.

If you don't have a rotisserie, I would also recommend that you unscrew the 2 drop target banks mechanisms before removing the playfield as the playfield will then rest nicely on a flat surface on its pop bumper and slingshot coil assemblies (there is one point on the under-playfield shooter lane assembly that sticks down a little further than the coil brackets, so just hang that over the side of the table. This will give you easy access to remove the backboard.

You also need to remove a nut from under the playfield that holds the right hand side right ramp protector in place which is easiest to do with playfield upright and in machine. And at same time, remove the right ramp diverter which is held in by a small allen key grub screw on the under playfield mechanism at the top middle of the playfield.

So, process is:

1. 9 electrical connectors in backbox.
2. unscrew both drop target bank assemblies and secure flat with cable ties (if no rotisserie)
3. Remove nut from underside of playfield right ramp right side protector.
4. remove right ramp diverter.
5. remove playfield from cabinet
6. 4 or 5 electrical connectors near backboard
7. 8 cross head screws / bolts from rear of backboard
8. 2 screws connecting right ramp to cup.
9. maybe you can now jiggle the backboard and cup off (I couldn't). If not:
10. Remove right ramp. And try again. If not
11. Remove left ramp.

Good luck

Paul

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1790 1 year ago

Playfield resting flat on its coil mechanisms with under playfield shooter mech hanging over side of table (3 bank drop target mechanisms removed)

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1791 1 year ago

This is the ramp protector which is easiest to remove whilst playfield still in machine.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1792 1 year ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Hey all. How do i remove the back wall of the playfield off. WhT is holding i to the playfield? I intend to justprop up the playfield and feel around for screws, bit i wanna know how many ans where theyre being held in at

I have removed the rear wall without removing the playfield. It really it is not very hard, just a little muscle needed to start. With the playfield upright as in the photo, I lean forward and with my forearms braced on the cabinet sides, I lift the playfield vertically up out of the pivots. You can see that below the pivots the playfield has nothing to really interfere with along the edges. I then pivot the playfield down laying on the cabinet pivots. The front edge of the play field can be forward by about 10”. I use something soft to lay the front of the playfield on wherever makes sense. You can now access the rear wall of the playfield with decent access. I did this to replace the cup, fix the EAT lamps and clean up messy wiring. The game was operable throughout the process.

2AC4E172-0C46-45E8-A53C-AA7E4FF1C0CA (resized).jpeg2AC4E172-0C46-45E8-A53C-AA7E4FF1C0CA (resized).jpeg
#1793 1 year ago

Thank you. I removed it, but had to snip some wires to do it and am now terrified i wont be able to put them back together. The right flasher (the 89 bulb) lools like just yellow wires on both sides? As if it was a stanard gi? Man, this is a huge ask, but does anyone have pics of the back if this thing? I dont know what wores go where, now.

#1794 1 year ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Thank you. I removed it, but had to snip some wires to do it and am now terrified i wont be able to put them back together. The right flasher (the 89 bulb) lools like just yellow wires on both sides? As if it was a stanard gi? Man, this is a huge ask, but does anyone have pics of the back if this thing? I dont know what wores go where, now.

Maybe this helps.

79BB921E-F840-47F3-90CF-939792725BD0 (resized).jpeg79BB921E-F840-47F3-90CF-939792725BD0 (resized).jpeg
#1795 1 year ago
Quoted from Dpirhana:

Maybe this helps.[quoted image]

This might be a little better.

4A8B6350-3890-4285-9B34-5F5433BD749F (resized).jpeg4A8B6350-3890-4285-9B34-5F5433BD749F (resized).jpeg
#1796 1 year ago
Quoted from Dpirhana:

This might be a little better.[quoted image]

One more for the hell of it.

7227CC17-584C-4C99-8F31-7DA4CF587910 (resized).jpeg7227CC17-584C-4C99-8F31-7DA4CF587910 (resized).jpeg
#1797 1 year ago

Holy smokes. Absolutely terrific. Amni seeing it right? Thise teo 89 flashers are tied together? So one jumps off the other ?? This is such a help!!!

#1798 1 year ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Holy smokes. Absolutely terrific. Amni seeing it right? Thise teo 89 flashers are tied together? So one jumps off the other ?? This is such a help!!!

Correct. It’s just “extending” the flasher so two flash from same signal instead of just one.

#1799 1 year ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Thank you. I removed it, but had to snip some wires to do it and am now terrified i wont be able to put them back together. The right flasher (the 89 bulb) lools like just yellow wires on both sides? As if it was a stanard gi? Man, this is a huge ask, but does anyone have pics of the back if this thing? I dont know what wores go where, now.

Dude, at least take pictures first before you go snipping wires.

#1800 1 year ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Thank you. I removed it, but had to snip some wires to do it and am now terrified i wont be able to put them back together. The right flasher (the 89 bulb) lools like just yellow wires on both sides? As if it was a stanard gi? Man, this is a huge ask, but does anyone have pics of the back if this thing? I dont know what wores go where, now.

I have all my resto pics stored somewhere if you get stuck. Should have just about every pic possible.

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