London
It should be off at the times it lighting up with the flipper press. It lights up correctly when it should be on.
(Topic ID: 50275)
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Diner
Williams, 1990
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Quoted from Andypc:It should be off at the times it lighting up with the flipper press. It lights up correctly when it should be on.
Weird. You might get more help on Pinballinfo.
I'd only guess a bad diode or similar but probably easy to fix once you do know the issue
Quoted from Andypc:I just noticed the green 10x insert is flashing when I press the flipper buttons. Any Ideas what the issue might be. Would changing it to an incandescent bulb solve it or is there an issue that needs to be fixed?
are you sure its not just a loose connection/duff holder or duff LED?
Neil.
Williamston, MI
Quoted from NeilMcRae:does anyone here have a CPR Diner playfield they want to move on ? I'll be at TPF next week and could ship to my hotel.
Neil.
What are you up to? Buying me a new pf so I don't use the protector?
Quoted from Andypc:I just noticed the green 10x insert is flashing when I press the flipper buttons. Any Ideas what the issue might be. Would changing it to an incandescent bulb solve it or is there an issue that needs to be fixed?
DaveTheTrain came round and had a few games on my Diner and he noticed it wasn't just the Green 10x insert is flashing every time the flipper were activated, it was also the Cup Flashers. After having a look under the playfield I realised the Green 10x insert has both a normal insert bulb and a flasher bulb. It was the flasher bulb that was flashing with the flipper activation. So essentially the three cup flashers were flashing every time the flippers activated.
I changed the flasher bulb under the Green 10x insert from an LED to an incandescent flasher bulb and it seems to have solved the problem. The cup flashers are still LED's but are no longer flash with the flipper activation. Should I consider this solved and just a quirk of using LED's or is there anything I need to fix?
Also while testing I noticed my ROM version is shown as Domestic Proto 0 ID 01 11/28/89. IPBD shows the production run as June 1990?
20220320_221615 (resized).jpgQuoted from Andypc:DaveTheTrain came round and had a few games on my Diner and he noticed it wasn't just the Green 10x insert is flashing every time the flipper were activated, it was also the Cup Flashers. After having a look under the playfield I realised the Green 10x insert has both a normal insert bulb and a flasher bulb. It was the flasher bulb that was flashing with the flipper activation. So essentially the three cup flashers were flashing every time the flippers activated.
I changed the flasher bulb under the Green 10x insert from an LED to an incandescent flasher bulb and it seems to have solved the problem. The cup flashers are still LED's but are no longer flash with the flipper activation. Should I consider this solved and just a quirk of using LED's or is there anything I need to fix?
Also while testing I noticed my ROM version is shown as Domestic Proto 0 ID 01 11/28/89. IPBD shows the production run as June 1990? [quoted image]
Upgrade the rom....
Proto ROMs are incomplete.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Upgrade the rom....
Proto ROMs are incomplete.
But if he upgrades the rom he'll lose my 1st place high score 
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:But if he upgrades the rom he'll lose my 1st place high score
What was your score???
Quoted from AlexRogan84:What was your score???
15mil. I didn't know what I was doing our own diner is still in pieces so haven't played many.
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:15mil. I didn't know what I was doing our own diner is still in pieces so haven't played many.
Such a fun game! And super satisfying to get that Dine Time jackpot. Love Diner!
It works!
I've had a few transistors blow, ones for a coil and flasher and two switch columns. It's odd.
Needs full LEDs, I just had some random spare ones to try out in some of the GI.
20220324_040844 (resized).jpg
I'd get a new cup but it's too expensive for us right now, plus ours isn't that bad when lit strategically with cool whites.
A few teething issues....
Sometimes the saucer on plunge takes a few seconds to register so you can miss the NUMBER ONEEE
Could it be as simple as the switch?
Secondly I removed the spinner and switch while cleaning and I am struggling to get the spinner to activate.
The switch works (seems finicky mind) but I can't seem to bend the actuator so it has the correct amount of travel to activate and deactivate the switch.
If anyone has or can get a pic of the spinner switch and connecting rod under the pf it would be highly helped!
Sometimes when plunging or the ball is fired from the kicker in the shooter lane the ball hits something and rolls back into the shooter lane. Is this common? I tried removing the plastic with the records on and then the ball wouldn't make it around at all, like it needs to hit that a bit to get speed which seems odd!
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:It works!
I've had a few transistors blow, ones for a coil and flasher and two switch columns. It's odd.
Needs full LEDs, I just had some random spare ones to try out in some of the GI.
[quoted image]
I'd get a new cup but it's too expensive for us right now, plus ours isn't that bad when lit strategically with cool whites.
A few teething issues....
Sometimes the saucer on plunge takes a few seconds to register so you can miss the NUMBER ONEEE
Could it be as simple as the switch?
Secondly I removed the spinner and switch while cleaning and I am struggling to get the spinner to activate.
The switch works (seems finicky mind) but I can't seem to bend the actuator so it has the correct amount of travel to activate and deactivate the switch.
If anyone has or can get a pic of the spinner switch and connecting rod under the pf it would be highly helped!
See post#1571.
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:Sometimes when plunging or the ball is fired from the kicker in the shooter lane the ball hits something and rolls back into the shooter lane. Is this common? I tried removing the plastic with the records on and then the ball wouldn't make it around at all, like it needs to hit that a bit to get speed which seems odd!
When I rebuilt my Diner I found the under playfield kicker would launch the ball into the jukebox. Replacing the coil sleeve was the culprit, the kicker was now too strong. I had thrown out the old coil sleeves so I could not go back. I put a small post ring on the resting coil stop so the coil plunger had a shorter stroke, it had been there now for 3 years.
You definitely do not want to keep hitting the jukebox.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:When I rebuilt my Diner I found the under playfield kicker would launch the ball into the jukebox. Replacing the coil sleeve was the culprit, the kicker was now too strong. I had thrown out the old coil sleeves so I could not go back. I put a small post ring on the resting coil stop so the coil plunger had a shorter stroke, it had been there now for 3 years.
You definitely do not want to keep hitting the jukebox.
Good idea! Does it still make it into the saucer? I wasn't sure if it was supposed to but mine always does unless I remove the plastic it bounces off.
Quoted from Dpirhana:See post#1571.
Thanks! That's ideal
Quoted from NJDevils30:Was able to meet Mark Ritchie at TPF 2022 and he signed my slingshot plastic. Glad to add this to my game.
[quoted image]
Nifty!!
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:Good idea! Does it still make it into the saucer? I wasn't sure if it was supposed to but mine always does unless I remove the plastic it bounces off.
It still has tons of power. I thought for sure I would need to remove the spacer after a while but it has never really slowed down. Never been an issue to make it into the saucer.
For those of you with a CPR gold, silver or bronze playfield: What do you think of the clear coat quality? Is the quality good enough for a high end restoration (done by me) or Did you find the need to have a pro like HEP or Kruzman redo it?
I would hate to install it only to find out the clear isn’t that great. Thanks!
Quoted from KornFreak28:For those of you with a CPR gold, silver or bronze playfield: What do you think of the clear coat quality? Is the quality good enough for a high end restoration (done by me) or Did you find the need to have a pro like HEP or Kruzman redo it?
I would hate to install it only to find out the clear isn’t that great. Thanks!
I usually re-clear the new playfields.
Often there is a bit of shrinkage around the inserts and a little orange peel here and there.
Once in awhile I have to touch up some keylines if errors are too noticeable.
Sometimes there are little scratches that wont buff out easily without sanding.
You dont have to do it, but since its there, one can do a better job.
Its just part of the process.
It doesnt take a huge amount of work, so I do it.
Its not really the fault of the manufacturer, Its the nature of clearcoat.
No matter how good it looks initially, die back will occur as a natural process and small dents in it will show up in about 24 months around the inserts.
It takes about 14 weeks to get a new cabinet from virtua-pin.
It takes about 12 weeks for new clear to cure enough for installation.
8 to 10 more weeks to start being bullet-proof.
48 to 60 weeks to get rock hard.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I usually re-clear the new playfields.
Often there is a bit of shrinkage around the inserts and a little orange peel here and there.
Once in awhile I have to touch up some keylines if errors are too noticeable.
Sometimes there are little scratches that wont buff out easily without sanding.
You dont have to do it, but since its there, one can do a better job.
Its just part of the process.
It doesnt take a huge amount of work, so I do it.
Its not really the fault of the manufacturer, Its the nature of clearcoat.
No matter how good it looks initially, die back will occur as a natural process and small dents in it will show up in about 24 months around the inserts.
It takes about 14 weeks to get a new cabinet from virtua-pin.
It takes about 12 weeks for new clear to cure enough for installation.
8 to 10 more weeks to start being bullet-proof.
48 t0 60 weeks to get rock hard.
Did you find the need to re-clear the Gold you got?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Did you find the need to re-clear the Gold you got?
Yes.
Its pretty good over all, insert die back was the only problem.
I try to fill the insert edges with a bit more clear as they will trap wax and dirt if the dents are too deep.
Then I sand it down at 12 weeks to thin it down a bit and buff to a good finish, not mirror.
Mirror finish is definitely possible and some guys do it, but it plays weird. The balls shoot like a bowling ally and they dont roll like they should.
So, I bring it down to just before mirror sheen.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Mirror finish is definitely possible and some guys do it, but it plays weird. The balls shoot like a bowling ally and they dont roll like they should.
So, I bring it down to just before mirror sheen.
So true.... The ball slides a ton while rolling instead of rolling with any traction for accuracy or track predictability.
Too much wax can have a similar effect.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:So true.... The ball slides a ton while rolling instead of rolling with any traction for accuracy or track predictability.
Too much wax can have a similar effect.
Plus a little less mirror gives the wax something to bite onto.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Yes.
Its pretty good over all, insert die back was the only problem.
I try to fill the insert edges with a bit more clear as they will trap wax and dirt if the dents are too deep.
Then I sand it down at 12 weeks to thin it down a bit and buff to a good finish, not mirror.
Mirror finish is definitely possible and some guys do it, but it plays weird. The balls shoot like a bowling ally and they dont roll like they should.
So, I bring it down to just before mirror sheen.
Sorry but what’s insert die back?
Quoted from KornFreak28:Sorry but what’s insert die back?
Clearcoat is 70% ( or more) solvent when in liquid form before it cures.
The solvent leaves the paint thru evaporation and catylization.
This reduces its volume accordingly.
It shrinks down to a very thin and extremely hard and durable finish.
Any crevices or imperfections show up as the paint shrinks down.
This process is commonly called "die back".
The thicker you apply the paint, the more die back you will see.
Perfect mirror finshed playfields will show crevices (or light indenting) at the insert edges after 16 months or so.
Chris Hutchens adds extra clear to nearly all playfields a few weeks before assembly to help the die back have less presence.
He then sands them down to thin the paint. This is a very good practise and may lead to just filling the imperfections a bit more.
This is called "flattening".
This may include ones that he had previously cleared earlier.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Clearcoat is 70% ( or more) solvent when in liquid form before it cures.
The solvent leaves the paint thru evaporation and catylization.
This reduces its volume accordingly.
It shrinks down to a very thin and extremely hard and durable finish.
Any crevices or imperfections show up as the paint shrinks down.
This process is commonly called "die back".
The thicker you apply the paint, the more die back you will see.
Perfect mirror finshed playfields will show crevices (or light indenting) at the insert edges after 16 months or so.
Chris Hutchens adds extra clear to nearly all playfields a few weeks before assembly to help the die back have less presence.
He then sands them down to thin the paint. This is a very good practise and may lead to just filling the imperfections a bit more.
This is called "flattening".
This may include ones that he had previously cleared earlier.
I’m good at clear coating but never done anything like this before. I wonder if there’s a guide out there?
Thanks for the explanation btw
When I'm playing sometimes "Highest Score " pops up on the display... But it doesn't show the highest score, it shows the fourth place score, until you pass it then it seems to jump to first place score.
This seems odd considering it says "highest score".
Is this a bug or something up with my Diner?
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:It still has tons of power. I thought for sure I would need to remove the spacer after a while but it has never really slowed down. Never been an issue to make it into the saucer.
Thanks for this! I added two rubber rings to my plunger out of curiosity and it still makes it to the saucer. I might remove one to give it more umph! But it works.
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:When I'm playing sometimes "Highest Score " pops up on the display... But it doesn't show the highest score, it shows the fourth place score, until you pass it then it seems to jump to first place score.
This seems odd considering it says "highest score".
Is this a bug or something up with my Diner?
Mine does that, I just assumed it was to encourage me to beat the lowest score that would get me in the top 4 scores.
Quoted from KornFreak28:I’m good at clear coating but never done anything like this before. I wonder if there’s a guide out there?
Thanks for the explanation btw
Right here on pinside:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:Mine does that, I just assumed it was to encourage me to beat the lowest score that would get me in the top 4 scores.
I'm glad it's not something dodgy about my game, I have enough issues.
It is weird, bk2k next to it shows the actual Highest.
Just weird wording to put "highest score"
"Score to beat " would have made more sense.
1 week later
Quoted from Pinkitten:Trying to figure out the date of manufacture so I can replace this sticker. Can someone familiar with these read this? 1990 I’m sure, but the rest is unclear.
Thank you!
[quoted image]
Looks like 90260
If I’m not mistaken, the format they used was year (90) and day (260th). Which in your case would be September 17th, 1990 I believe.
My Diner when I power it on will occasionally fire the knocker coil. It happens the instant I flip the power switch underneath. Maybe 1 in 10 times I turn on the game. No idea why it does this but it startles me big time when it happens. It’s not every coil as the flippers don’t move and it shouldn’t be ball search related because this is the knocker in the back box.
Anyone ever seen this or know why it happens? Power supply issue perhaps? Something I can check to figure it out?
Quoted from AlexRogan84:My Diner when I power it on will occasionally fire the knocker coil. It happens the instant I flip the power switch underneath. Maybe 1 in 10 times I turn on the game. No idea why it does this but it startles me big time when it happens. It’s not every coil as the flippers don’t move and it shouldn’t be ball search related because this is the knocker in the back box.
Anyone ever seen this or know why it happens? Power supply issue perhaps? Something I can check to figure it out?
It means there is an error, usually a switch that hasnt triggered in a while. Its nothing to panic about, its normal. In WPC games, this was replaced with the "credit dot".
Quoted from TheOnlyest:It means there is an error, usually a switch that hasnt triggered in a while. Its nothing to panic about, its normal. In WPC games, this was replaced with the "credit dot".
I thought this wasn't true and it was more than one knock if there's an error.
I disconnected my knocker but still a coil occasionally fires on power on.
Someone told me this typical of sys11s.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:It means there is an error, usually a switch that hasnt triggered in a while. Its nothing to panic about, its normal. In WPC games, this was replaced with the "credit dot".
Not necessarily the case with the “mystery knock”.
I get that on mine like once every dozen times it turns on and no credit dot (btw, Diner will show a credit dot as well if there are any issues).
Thanks for the explanations on the startup knocker. Glad to hear it isn’t an issue. Game plays great. One of my faves.
3 weeks later
Quoted from zerbam:anyone have a pair of diner promo circles to sell?
Email PPS and see if they have any.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Email PPS and see if they have any.
They never answer their emails or Pinside PM’s!
Quoted from zerbam:anyone have a pair of diner promo circles to sell?
Out of curiosity, what can you use these things for?
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
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