(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?

By Pinballgeek

8 years ago


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  • 1,533 posts
  • 199 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by Aflacjack
  • Topic is favorited by 75 Pinsiders

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There are 1533 posts in this topic. You are on page 31 of 31.
#1501 31 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Just got back in the club and this time it will never leave. Anybody noticed vibration when the ramp diverter opens to have access to the cup?

Pull it apart and inspect the coil for loose/cracked lugs or wires. Check the connector and transistors on the driver board. Sounds like the power is unstable or intermittent.

Quoted from KornFreak28:

I’m also having an issue where the left flipper stays up during game play.

Does the flipper stay up if you turn off the game? If so, its mechanical.

Mechanical binding? Pull apart the mech and carefully examine and clean/replace all the parts.
Broken/missing return spring?

Flipper drops if you turn off the power?

Could be cabinet button leaf switch?

Could be EOS switch failure or adjustment or bad poorly soldered wire? Game not going into hold power and staying on high power.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

I rebuilt my flippers and put in the newer style return springs.
The old conical plunger mounted return springs bounce the flippers and are crap in comparison.

I also molexed the mechs for easy removal.

#1502 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Pull it apart and inspect the coil for loose/cracked lugs or wires, switch and diode. Its chuddering.

Does the flipper stay up if you turn off the game? If so, its mechanical.
Mechanical binding? Pull apart the mech and carefully examine and clean/replace all the parts.
Flipper drops if you turn off the power?
Could be cabinet button leaf switch?
Could be EOS switch failure or adjustment or bad poorly soldered wire? Game not going into hold power and staying on high power.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

Flipper starts at normal position when game is started. Then it stays up after a few flips. Sometimes it comes down on it’s own during the game, sometimes it stays up until you turn the game off. It always goes down when the game is turned off.

I started messing with the mechanics to see if anything is binding and it all looked good. After I did this, the flipper now is super super weak and only goes up about 1/4 inch or less and It’s super weak.

#1503 31 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Flipper starts at normal position when game is started. Then it stays up after a few flips. Sometimes it comes down on it’s own during the game, sometimes it stays up until you turn the game off. It always goes down when the game is turned off.
I started messing with the mechanics to see if anything is binding and it all looked good. After I did this, the flipper now is super super weak and only goes up about 1/4 inch or less and It’s super weak.

System 11 games have a pretty simple flipper system, not much to go wrong electronically.

After cleaning the cab switch and EOS switch and properly gapping the EOS switch and checking all the wires for cold joints including the cab switch wires. Basically everything clean and smooth running mechanically.

Check the coil and diodes. Check voltages at the coil.

Check for problems in the 50v going to the flipper.

Could be a loose left flipper fuse or corroded or cracked joint at the fuse holder. Or even a bad fuse.

Could be a loose wire at the flipper power board or burnt pin at the connector.

There is also a relay that the contacts can be cleaned, but I dont think thats what it is.

Could just be a bad/shorted coil...running on hold power or a 50v wire hanging by a thread.

If you run out of things the check, Swap the mechs and see if the problem moves.

Probably time to just rebuild the flippers completely.

#1504 30 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Just got back in the club and this time it will never leave. Anybody noticed vibration when the ramp diverter opens to have access to the cup?
I’m also having an issue where the left flipper stays up during game play.
Any pics or info will be appreciated. Thanks!

If the plunger does not seat firmly against the coil stop it will vibrate.

#1505 30 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

System 11 games have a pretty simple flipper system, not much to go wrong electronically.
After cleaning the cab switch and EOS switch and properly gapping the EOS switch and checking all the wires for cold joints including the cab switch wires. Basically everything clean and smooth running mechanically.
Check the coil and diodes. Check voltages at the coil.
Check for problems in the 50v going to the flipper.
Could be a loose left flipper fuse or corroded or cracked joint at the fuse holder. Or even a bad fuse.
Could be a loose wire at the flipper power board or burnt pin at the connector.
There is also a relay that the contacts can be cleaned, but I dont think thats what it is.
Could just be a bad/shorted coil...running on hold power or a 50v wire hanging by a thread.
If you run out of things the check, Swap the mechs and see if the problem moves.
Probably time to just rebuild the flippers completely.

Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

If the plunger does not seat firmly against the coil stop it will vibrate.

Thank you both! I will go through this carefully and report back. What’s the yellow cylinders on the flipper mech for?

#1506 30 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Thank you both! I will go through this carefully and report back. What’s the yellow cylinders on the flipper mech for?

Those are capacitors to help make the EOS contacts last and lower/prevent the arcing.

You see similar capacitor ideas on high voltage cabinet flipper switches to make the contacts last longer.

They are non-polarized (go any direction), and are on all of the system 11 games as well as WPC89 games like funhouse.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C2.2M250VA-NP

#1507 26 days ago

I'm looking at getting a new jukebox made for my playfield, as the existing one is wrecked. It will be as close as possible to the original, with a chrome finish.

Is there any demand out there for new ones, as I probably will have to get a few made. Anyone interested?

#1508 26 days ago
Quoted from mfresh:

I'm looking at getting a new jukebox made for my playfield, as the existing one is wrecked. It will be as close as possible to the original, with a chrome finish.
Is there any demand out there for new ones, as I probably will have to get a few made. Anyone interested?

That would be awesome!

They are totally unavailable. Im sure you could sell quite a few.

#1509 26 days ago
Quoted from mfresh:

I'm looking at getting a new jukebox made for my playfield, as the existing one is wrecked. It will be as close as possible to the original, with a chrome finish.
Is there any demand out there for new ones, as I probably will have to get a few made. Anyone interested?

How much?

#1510 26 days ago

I was going to ask the same question!

#1511 26 days ago

Probably about $80-$90. Set up costs for making them are high, but the more I get made the lower the cost will be.

It sounds a lot, but I need to get a model made, then there’s vacuum forming and chrome finishing.

#1512 26 days ago
Quoted from mfresh:

Probably about $80-$90. Set up costs for making them are high, but the more I get made the lower the cost will be.
It sounds a lot, but I need to get a model made, then there’s vacuum forming and chrome finishing.

The price seems about right.

#1513 25 days ago

Just to be clear, I am talking about the chrome coloured jukebox shell only - not the window and lightboard inside. These would be tranferred over from your existing jukebox

#1514 20 days ago

Hey guys we just got a diner and the wires around the service switches inside the coin door are a garbled mess and it would be absolutely amazing if somebody could postme a couple pictures of the wiring on the switches so i can see which ones to solder where, our other system 11 games look different I think it’s cause my others are sys11a and b anyway thank you in advance!

#1515 20 days ago

Here's a smattering of my Diner.

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#1516 18 days ago

Picking mine up on Sunday and I’m so excited I can’t tell you. Been after one for YEARS. Selling space station to fund it.
I’ve probably missed the boat with MRS and clear coffee cups. I think it comes with a spare yellowed one so may try the painting it white trick.

#1517 18 days ago

I have plenty of New clear coffee cups if you need PM me if you need one
Thanks mike

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#1518 18 days ago
Quoted from mike200mph:

I have plenty of New clear coffee cups if you need PM me if you need one

And what are these going for nowadays?

#1519 18 days ago

Hi
They are 195.00+ ups insured shipping
for the cup with the decal included.
Thanks Mike

#1520 18 days ago
Quoted from mike200mph:

Hi
They are 195.00+ ups insured shipping
for the cup with the decal included.
Thanks Mike

How about to the UK mate. Same?

#1521 18 days ago

Yes same price for cup and decal 195.00

Ups freight I would have to get you a quote
Pm me if you like with your address
Thanks Mike

#1522 17 days ago

anyone interested in trading your nice diner for my nice revenge from mars?..........i want to join the diner group

#1523 17 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

anyone interested in trading your nice diner for my nice revenge from mars?..........i want to join the diner group

Sure but you have to drive here to do the exchange.

#1524 16 days ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

Here's a smattering of my Diner.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

thank you sooooo much you are a lifesaver

#1525 16 days ago

I’m in!! Picked up today. Love it love it.
Cup is yellowed but not too bad. Also came with a spare which is very yellow so may experiment with painting it white.

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#1526 16 days ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

I’m in!! Picked up today. Love it love it.
Cup is yellowed but not too bad. Also came with a spare which is very yellow so may experiment with painting it white.[quoted image]

Dont paint it white, Its part of the fun to see how many spins you get from a strong hit.

#1527 16 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Dont paint it white, Its part of the fun to see how many spins you get from a strong hit.

I’m pretty tall, I think I would be able to see the ball if painted white....

#1528 16 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I’m pretty tall, I think I would be able to see the ball if painted white....

Ok!

#1529 16 days ago

Would make for a nice project painting that cup, Adding diff decals....Or How about adding “World’s best Dad” or something?

#1530 16 days ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Would make for a nice project painting that cup, Adding diff decals....Or How about adding “World’s best Dad” or something?

Haha or go all British and turn it into a tea cup!!

#1531 16 days ago

I’d highly recommend the MRS switch for your cup as well. More details in this thread, and you can contact the OP of it about getting one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-for-ramps-a-universal-solution-to-plastic-ramp-microswitches#post-5463927

I have this on my Diner and Shadow and it works great!

#1532 16 days ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

I’d highly recommend the MRS switch for your cup as well. More details in this thread, and you can contact the OP of it about getting one.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mrs-for-ramps-a-universal-solution-to-plastic-ramp-microswitches#post-5463927
I have this on my Diner and Shadow and it works great!

Already on it. Cheers mate. I have one for my taxi also

1 week later
#1533 8 days ago

Lighted flippers added to my Diner

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There are 1533 posts in this topic. You are on page 31 of 31.

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