The copper trace from the flasher goes to the second pin from the top on the connector, which has no wire in it.

Ah, interesting! Maybe we can mod it!

It shouldnt be too hard to hook it to a dine-time light.

Is there an easier way to install drop target decals on Diner besides disassembling the entire mechanism? Maybe just peel them off at playfield level? They're long enough that the sticker extends below the playfield itself. Thought about just trimming them to fit.

Any suggestions? Thanks.

Just take the mechanism out, you will thank yourself later when they look perfect! I was planning to replace all of mine but after a good cleaning the red ones were good as new!

I put the wires on molex connectors.

Just unplug and remove the whole mech.

2 mins

Whenever i do anything, first molex the wires.

Especially flipper mechs.

I ended up taking the mechanims off of the playfield because I realized it was easier than I first thought. The hardest part of replacing the target decals was getting the old sticker residue off of the plastic so that the new decals sit flush without bubbling. Here are the results:

IMG_20210505_172253529 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210505_180523100 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210505_192803117 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210505_194212871 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210505_194208735 (resized).jpg

While I had the drop target mechs out and apart, I took the time to wipe down the playfield, g.i. boards and solenoids.

Sounds like a good way to convert the machine over time. Can you show me a picture of what you mean? I'm getting ready to rebuild the flippers on Diner - this will be a first for me (ever).

get this tool:

https://www.crimpingtools.com/products/sn-28b-ratchet-terminal-crimper?currency=USD&variant=615305337&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping6262(

Get connectors and pins here:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=35

Get an assortment of 2 and 3 circuit .093 connectors and pins, both male and female.

For skinny wire use the .062 connectors and pins

Get a decent wire stripper, something like this:

https://gokimco.com/products/ideal-45-097-stripmaster-wire-stripper-16-to-26-awg?variant=31347565297716&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google+Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp86EBhD7ARIsAFkgakibk3tmho4CGAf6NGxi2hbR-T55LHUFWEBugVWQHH4BxWQMMia_ETMaAgieEALw_wcB

I use a klein katapult:

https://www.amazon.com/Stripper-Electrical-Klein-Tools-11063W/dp/B00BC39YFQ/ref=asc_df_B00BC39YFQ/

with this blade:

https://www.amazon.com/Blades-Stripper-Klein-Tools-11074/dp/B00776SKB6/ref=asc_df_B00776SKB6/

Watch video here:

Anyone have any advice on how to deal with a stripped screw on the diverter shaft? As soon as I manage to get this off, I'm replacing these Philips screws with hex heads...

No wonder this wasn't taken apart for maintenance.

Thanks.

Pull the playfield completely out and deal with it on the rotisserie.

Can you cut a slot into the broken part with a Dremel tool and then use a screwdriver to break free?

That's not an option for me

I did this with the diverter crank arm on my Whirlwind. Hex screw was completely stripped out and I couldn't drill it out either. Just used the Dremel and cut a slot until it broke free. Replaced the crank with a new one.

There may have been a better way, but this worked for me.

Cut a slot? I can't quite picture what you mean. Maybe cut the head off the screw and unscrew it from the nut side?

I'm getting a "check switch" message on startup: switch #16, Sub-P'fld Shooter 2. I checked it out and the wiring looks good. Switch moves and responds.

What might be causing this message to be displayed?

Thanks

Found a loose ground braid in the bottom of my cabinet. I was advised in another thread ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/questions-about-ground-braid-repair-and-location ) to place it underneath a nearby wing nut. I went ahead and stapled it down. Here's what I came up with:

IMG_20210511_175211998 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210511_175255389 (resized).jpg

Is this going to work? Are all grounds on the machine connected together? What do I need to know here?

I don't want to turn my machine on and watch it explode.

Thanks!

I have also had problems with the clock wheel not turning. The set screw can be tightened, although it is a bit of a pain. I have also resolved issues by cleaned the opto with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip. With a digital camera you can see light from the opto. My latest wheel problem was caused by a bad connector at the connection onto the clock board. Once the connector was replaced, everything worked.

Buck I did end up cleaning off the opto using the exact same method, even after I stopped getting the clock error. As with the mech that raises the ramp, I think both were just sitting idle so long that they needed to be worked a little bit to have normal range of movement restored. I do have another question though: Does the clock wheel need to be aligned to a certain starting position? I noticed it has a notch on it, which was helpful for adding a new decal, but I want to assume it has a greater purpose than just that.

Thanks.

I re-read your original post, and I think we're talking about two different parts. Here is an image of the diverter crank that had the stripped out screw. This piece holds the diverter in place and allows the coil to move the diverter. I had to cut a slot in the crank to allow the diverter to come free.

diverter-crank-arm (resized).jpg

Yep. I'm talking about the little Philips head screws that hold the "plate" onto the diverter shaft. I'll probably have to cut them off with a Dremel.

IMG_20210510_192034226 (resized).jpg

Try taking the diverter crank off from the bottom of the diverter shaft. It should then allow you to pull the entire diverter out without having to take those screws out.

Before grinding the heads off, which is a legitimate option, often you can grip them and loosen them to get them out.

I have had great success using this tool for tons of pinball work.
squeeze firmly to get it to bite, then crack them loose.

I use it all the time, I have 2 of them now lol:

https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-RT24CVS-Cresent-Tongue-Groove/dp/B01CDJCPUI/ref=asc_df_B01CDJCPUI/

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Crescent-4-5-in-Tongue-and-Groove-Plier-RT24CVS/206738172?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-HandTools_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_1_HAND_TOOLS-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-HandTools_LIA-71700000043839315-58700004592003384-92700061026903131&gclid=CjwKCAjw-e2EBhAhEiwAJI5jgxd0ABlS5Zg-88yYqXz1Ovp14mxv17uaAcnaVhZGUCz5Mcg8xTDnaBoC_2cQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Awesome. I'll try that. Thanks for the tip. Still want to replace the screws though. If I can remove the shaft altogether, I might have a shot at loosening the nuts so I don't risk damaging adjacent parts when using a grinder.

Definitely remove it from below. I have never needed to touch those topside screws. I even buffed that part while still on the shaft.

While the decal and the wheel need to be aligned (the notch you noted above), the wheel on the shaft should not matter.

Question about the left ramp:

Are the two side-mounted spring steel plates supposed to be seated inside the adjoining upper portion of the ramp, or do they sit outside of it? Maybe a silly question, but I don't trust the previous owner's reassembly work.

Thanks again.

ok guys, diner fans... can you give a tip how to repair the cup switch, one cable is off, and i cannot reach it...

please forget my post...

i found it out myself: you can reach the Cup switch via Backbox hole
fixed it, plays like a charm now...

first a rootbeer and a burger then...

Still having trouble with my left flipper:

Replaced everything except switch, coil and cap...

Flipper still seems weak and if I hold down the button long enough, it sticks in the upward position. I adjusted the leaf switch for the button to narrow the gap (old switch), and that didn't seem to do much good. When I let go of both buttons simultaneously, the left comes back down 1/4 second later each time. Return springs are brand new, also coil sleeve and bushing.

Maybe I'll try and readjust the gap...

Can someone please advise?

Thanks in advance.

Is it mechanically binding?

What is the condition of the bushing?

Is the flipper bat gapped properly?

If this only happens after a while is that coil getting really hot? It should feel warm, but not hot. Compare temperatures with the other flipper.

Readjusted flipper bat/bushing. Operated mechanism by hand, seems to be moving perfectly, so I'm thinking it's a coil issue. Adjusted flipper button leaf switch, seems perfect... Haven't checked for a heat difference, but I'm thinking it's gotta be the coil..

Coils don't go bad very often. Check the coil resistances they should be pretty similar, if they are it really cannot be the coil.

When in doubt just rebuild everything new.

I often just build new flipper mechs starting with a new base plate.

Then i know they should be solid barring any bad diodes.

I test diodes on all new coils.

Sometimes they are backwards.

Often i just replace the diodes with in4007 higher duty ones if they look sketchy.

Its just not worth the time to fool around with 30 year old crap.

In case anyone has a similar issue, I have always had a persistent speaker "buzz" on my Diner which was present anytime it was powered up. I was thinking it was some sort of power supply issue and never really spent any time diagnosing it. While messing around doing some general cleanup I was unplugging and reseating various connectors. I unplugged J2 on the sound board, reseated it and SHAZAM - the noise is gone and it is absolutely silent.

I have the same buzz.

Did you reseat J2 while the machine was powered on?

Yes, I had it powered up and as soon as I wiggled J2, the buzz changed dramatically. When I reseated it a couple of times, it was gone.

I reseated twice. No difference

New problem just cropped up…when hitting the right ramp the diverter moves and the machine gives a missing ball error message on the display. Then after a few seconds the game ends and resets to new game ball one zeroed out score.

Any ideas of were to search for this gremlin?

Fixed.

I just joined the club and it came from a guy who owned it 20 plus years. It needs a little love but it does have the yellow wire ramp. Its not a diamond plate playfield that's stamped anyway. Is this still a sample pin? I know the guy didnt add the wire ramp so I assume it came with it. It has some other unique things but those someone could of changed like above the center drop targets its a red metal piece vs plastic art.

Anyway, happy to have finally joined the club!

Serial 420-355 if that helps with anything

Just curious because I plan to replace things that are not perfect or like the original if we love it and its a keeper

I fixed it. Turned out to be a short coil sleeve: the cylinder wasn't tight in the sleeve, causing it to sag and create friction which resulted in a weak flip. Whoops... Thanks for always being so helpful.

Did the Diner from the Banning auction sell yet?

Long really but I don't suppose anyone has a Diner jukebox for sale? I got a new coffee cup, but my jukebox has lost its chrome...

Very difficult to find in good confition.

Maybe yours can have the plastic replated.

Its quite a process but looks great when done.

Some big plastic outfits and sign companies do it.

Joined the club about 9 months ago, but didn't really get into my Diner until just recently. Loving the game so far!
It's definitely time for some good cleaning & wax, though, and I'm having a heck of a time trying to get everything off the playfield. Is anyone able to tell me the steps for getting the ramps & coffee cup off? Just did this with my Cyclone and it wasn't too bad. This is as far as I got.
As you can see, it really needs it, as it seems the previous owners couldn't be bothered to go through this process! Mylar has thankfully saved the rest of the playfield.

20210921_160117_HDR (resized).jpg

20210921_160131 (resized).jpg

20210921_160916_HDR (resized).jpg

Diner seems confusing at first but is not that bad once you sort out the multiple layers of plastics. One big thing is to get in behind the back end of the playfield so you can remove the whole back panel. Lift the playfield up vertical on the pivots. About 4-6 inches below the pivots (when vertical) on the playfield bottom is open, with nothing there. Lift the playfield straight up vertically about 4" and then pivot it back down, it will now be hanging out past the front of the machine and the back panel is far enough forward you can reach in there and work on everything.

Just got back in the club and this time it will never leave. Anybody noticed vibration when the ramp diverter opens to have access to the cup?

I’m also having an issue where the left flipper stays up during game play.

Any pics or info will be appreciated. Thanks!

I love this game. Especially with extra light!

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C4588C94-473C-4C25-9E7A-A021F1097453 (resized).jpeg