(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?


By Pinballgeek

8 years ago

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  • 1,476 posts
  • 191 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by zhu808
  • Topic is favorited by 75 Pinsiders

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There are 1476 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 30.
#1401 61 days ago

Thanks, guys. I did end up using the grinder to clean up the existing bracket. After getting it installed, I see the ball can still roll over the rivet heads, but hopefully it will play better now. At minimum, it gets rid of the mylar and ball hang locations.

20210314_101502 (resized).jpg20210314_115106 (resized).jpg
#1402 61 days ago
Quoted from herg:

Thanks, guys. I did end up using the grinder to clean up the existing bracket. After getting it installed, I see the ball can still roll over the rivet heads, but hopefully it will play better now. At minimum, it gets rid of the mylar and ball hang locations.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks perfect!

If the ball hangs, I might pull out the pop-rivets and use the regular tubular rivets. They have slightly lower heads.

#1403 60 days ago

The Diner I’m working on bringing back is missing some hardware. Can someone please post a photo of the intersection between the left side upper ramp and the right side ramp? Then I can see what hardware is used.

All those screws were missing and the ramps were broken.

Alberto

#1404 60 days ago
Quoted from Peruman:

The Diner I’m working on bringing back is missing some hardware. Can someone please post a photo of the intersection between the left side upper ramp and the right side ramp? Then I can see what hardware is used.
All those screws were missing and the ramps were broken.
Alberto

few pictures here
https://www.flippermarkt.de/community/forum/threads/komplett-restauration-diner.151511/

#1405 59 days ago

I‘ve often thought that the piece of galvanized sheet metal welded on to the right ramp at the intersection of the two ramps is one of the less attractive spots on otherwise an artistic masterpiece.

#1406 52 days ago

Hey there folks,

I'll be joining the Diner club sometime this week!

-z

#1407 52 days ago
Quoted from zhu808:

Hey there folks,
I'll be joining the Diner club sometime this week!
-z

Get lead out.

1 month later
#1408 18 days ago

I'm getting my Diner restored soon. Who makes the best quality cabinet decals?

#1409 17 days ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

I'm getting my Diner restored soon. Who makes the best quality cabinet decals?

Planetary Pinball

47dcee1a887c62acbdeff41693d56ebd91fffdf7 (resized).jpg
#1410 17 days ago
Quoted from Andypc:

Planetary Pinball[quoted image]

I looked over their site and couldn't find any...did you buy them recently?

#1411 17 days ago
Quoted from Andypc:

Planetary Pinball[quoted image]

Looks great!

#1412 16 days ago

Guys, thinking of selling my diner. Thoughts on price...

All new ramps, including cup, shopping with new rubbers and leds. New star posts. Inserts levels. Above average playfield and cab. New flipper mechs.

I have no pics on me, but what are these things going for these days?

#1413 16 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, thinking of selling my diner. Thoughts on price...
All new ramps, including cup, shopping with new rubbers and leds. New star posts. Inserts levels. Above average playfield and cab. New flipper mechs.
I have no pics on me, but what are these things going for these days?

I bought mine in similar condition for $2400
Pinside says $2800

#1414 16 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, thinking of selling my diner. Thoughts on price...
All new ramps, including cup, shopping with new rubbers and leds. New star posts. Inserts levels. Above average playfield and cab. New flipper mechs.
I have no pics on me, but what are these things going for these days?

I remember the search you had to find a Diner.

#1415 16 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I remember the search you had to find a Diner.

I remember you asking me to buy my Diner a few times

(Well blackbird not you )

#1416 16 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, thinking of selling my diner. Thoughts on price...
All new ramps, including cup, shopping with new rubbers and leds. New star posts. Inserts levels. Above average playfield and cab. New flipper mechs.
I have no pics on me, but what are these things going for these days?

Sounds nice. Based on description $3200 sounds reasonable to me.

#1417 16 days ago

With this market, pick your price and wait for a sucker.

#1418 16 days ago

are you open to trades for your diner?

#1419 16 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, thinking of selling my diner. Thoughts on price...
All new ramps, including cup, shopping with new rubbers and leds. New star posts. Inserts levels. Above average playfield and cab. New flipper mechs.
I have no pics on me, but what are these things going for these days?

I might be biased, but high 3's-low 4's. A semi-restored Diner is MUCH more than mid 2's...

#1420 16 days ago

Mine is fully restored and I wouldn't consider selling for less than 3500.

#1421 16 days ago
Quoted from MeNaCeFiRe:

I might be biased, but high 3's-low 4's. A semi-restored Diner is MUCH more than mid 2's...

Yeah I was a little surprised. I know what I paid for it was middle 2s. Then all the costs for ramps and cup. Not the mention the bitch of a shop job on it and trying to get the ramps in.

#1422 16 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

are you open to trades for your diner?

Perhaps. It’s more about space
For me.

Pm is you have something to trade.

#1423 16 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, thinking of selling my diner. Thoughts on price...

Have you looked around here lately?? Whatever the pinside price range says, find the middle and then double it! Some clueless asshat will come along and buy it, and destroy this hobby just a little bit more. What any game is actually worth, as well as condition, etc. is irrelevant anymore.

#1424 16 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Have you looked around here lately?? Whatever the pinside price range says, find the middle and then double it! Some clueless asshat will come along and buy it, and destroy this hobby just a little bit more. What any game is actually worth, as well as condition, etc. is irrelevant anymore.

Are usually just try to get my money out of a pin and maybe A couple hundred for my efforts and shopping and all the other crap

#1425 16 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, thinking of selling my diner. Thoughts on price...
All new ramps, including cup, shopping with new rubbers and leds. New star posts. Inserts levels. Above average playfield and cab. New flipper mechs.
I have no pics on me, but what are these things going for these days?

I’d say higher. Prolly more like 35-3800. It will sell at that price.

#1426 11 days ago

Hey all,

Having trouble with my ball lock "door" getting stuck in the open position. Anyone else had this problem? Maybe it need some lubrication?

Thanks

z

#Diner

#1427 11 days ago
Quoted from zhu808:

Hey all,
Having trouble with my ball lock "door" getting stuck in the open position. Anyone else had this problem? Maybe it need some lubrication?
Thanks
z
#Diner

Check and clean the solenoid?

#1428 11 days ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

I’d say higher. Prolly more like 35-3800. It will sell at that price.

Condition of an unrestored game doesnt really matter as most of the parts have to be replaced in order to last another 30 years.

From a restorers point of view, price is a big motivating factor, the more beat-up (cheaper) the better.

From a players perspective, price is whatever the market will bear.

#1429 11 days ago

Im going to re-powder coat my wireforms, they are red right now.

I see yellow, red and black as possible options.

Im thinking of going yellow or red with chrome armor?

I have the CPR playfield NOS cup, NOS juke box, NOS plastic set, and the CPR backglass already.

I will have the cash register re-plated.

#1430 11 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Check and clean the solenoid?

Checked and cleaned. I figured out that it's actually the mechanism (bolt) on the end of the arm that raises the ramp entrance that's getting hung up for some reason. I'll find out why later when I disassemble the playfield to clean and re-rubber.

#1431 11 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Im going to re-powder coat my wireforms, they are red right now.
I see yellow, red and black as possible options.
Im thinking of going yellow or red with chrome armor?
I have the CPR playfield NOS cup, NOS juke box, NOS plastic set, and the CPR backglass already.
I will have the cash register re-plated.

I'm partial to the yellow. Already plenty of red on the p.f.

#1432 11 days ago

Can someone take some bright, detailed pics of their I.C. board - specifically connectors J9 (lower p.f. G.I.) and J6? The previous owner hacked the wiring and I'm trying to get things back to its factory state. Below are pics of the state of my wiring/connectors.

I would also welcome some good advice on how to proceed. Looking at the diagram, it seems pretty self-explanatory: J9(7) indicates which pin the wire runs to, and F3 is a fuse, right? Thanks! (Noob here)

IMG_20210424_142627472 (resized).jpgIMG_20210424_211854 (resized).jpgIMG_20210424_212151 (resized).jpgIMG_20210502_191441177 (resized).jpg

#1433 11 days ago
Quoted from zhu808:

The previous owner hacked the wiring and I'm trying to get things back to its factory state.

STOP. Do NOT apply power to this machine until you get everything back to factory. The way you currently have it wired is dangerous.

Quoted from zhu808:

Below are pics of the state of my wiring/connectors.

There's enough information there for me to be able to figure out how to get it back to factory for you.

Quoted from zhu808:

I would also welcome some good advice on how to proceed.

Here you go ...

The manual has the wiring information. Be aware that Williams manuals have errors in them so double check what you have in your machine physically with what the manual states. If you have any doubt then ask.

Whoever hacked up your wiring hacked it up "real good". They bypassed the GI fuses with the wire nuts. That is VERY bad because if there's a short it won't take out the fuse. It will take out the transformer. You don't want to take out the transformer because they are expensive to buy as well as expensive to ship!

This is how 2J6 should be wired.

01_icb_2j6.jpg

You have attached the burned connector incorrectly. You put the YEL wires in pins 6-9 instead of pins 1-4. The other side of the AC are the YEL-WHT wires that have been "wire nutted".

This is how 2J7 and 2J9 should be wired.

02_icb_2j7_2j9.jpg

For 2J7:

You have inserted the wires incorrectly in the new connector. Remember that pin #1 is the RIGHT pin and the pin numbers increase moving left. Looking at the connector (in your post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/found-this-diner-#post-6245673) as you have inserted the wires you have done this:

  1. NC
  2. NC
  3. NC
  4. NC
  5. NC
  6. NC
  7. ORG
  8. RED
  9. WHT-GRN
  10. WHT-BRN

It should be:

  1. NC
  2. NC
  3. NC
  4. NC
  5. ORG
  6. RED
  7. WHT-GRN
  8. WHT-BRN
  9. GRN
  10. BRN

Take the GRN and BRN wires from the wire nut and fix the wires in 2J7.

For 2J9:

Take the loose WHT-YEL and WHT-VIO wires as well as the YEL and VIO wires from the wire nut and wire it like this:

  1. WHT-VIO
  2. NC
  3. NC
  4. NC
  5. VIO
  6. YEL
  7. WHT-YEL

For 2J6:

It doesn't really matter which of YEL-WHT and YEL wires go into which pins because they all originate at the same point.

03_gi_transformer_secondary.jpg

You can confirm everything in the wiring by double checking the interconnect board schematic.

04_icb_schematic.jpg

#1434 11 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

There's enough information there for me to be able to figure out how to get it back to factory for you.

I'll be doing this ASAP. Did I mention that you're my hero?
Will be reporting back here and on my thread once I've got it sorted out. Can't thank you enough.

How's it going? Busy as ever I'm guessing.

#1436 10 days ago

I'm shopping for connectors. There are various 9-pin female IDCs... Guessing I want the .156 spacing? 2J6 has fatter wires, so should I get the 18 gauge?

Screenshot_20210503-094833 (resized).png
Screenshot_20210503-094859 (resized).png

And I'm guessing this is not what I'm looking for:

Screenshot_20210503-094944 (resized).png

Sorry, I'm outside and don't have the manual in front of me.

z

#1437 10 days ago

Most people just get them from great plains electronics:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=35

No one gets new IDC connectors.

You just replace with trifurcon as you go.

Way better connection.

Get .156 connectors and pins, crimp them on.

#1438 10 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

No one gets new IDC connectors

They do if the old ones are melted off, like the ones I'm replacing.

#1439 10 days ago
Quoted from zhu808:

They do if the old ones are melted off, like the ones I'm replacing.

Yes, I know you need new connectors. Its common the see burnt/melted GI connectors.

What I mean is, replace the old style IDC with new style trifurcons, not IDC. Its a better type of connector.

#1440 10 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

What I mean is, replace the old style IDC with new style trifurcons, not IDC. Its a better type of connector

I'll look into how to do this. So you crimp the pin onto the end of a stripped wire and plug it into the connector? That's basically the gist?

Thanks for letting me know.

#1441 10 days ago
Quoted from zhu808:

I'll look into how to do this. So you crimp the pin onto the end of a stripped wire and plug it into the connector? That's basically the gist?
Thanks for letting me know.

yes

#1442 10 days ago

I found this. It's exactly my scenario. Hoping to avoid this happening again by switching all the G.I. to LED. The whole game is getting LEDed, actually. I'm already halfway there. Thank you for helping and advising me.

#1443 9 days ago

Question about the backbox flasher that is located behind the cook on the spring in the diner (position #3 out of the 6 ones on springs). I've never seen that one flash even with fiddling around with it. I can't find a test mode that is pertinent to that flasher. During what mode is that flasher supposed to go off? Same thing for which test mode? Thanks.

IMG_2371 (resized).jpeg

#1444 9 days ago
Quoted from Flippingr8:

Question about the backbox flasher that is located behind the cook on the spring in the diner (position #3 out of the 6 ones on springs). I've never seen that one flash even with fiddling around with it. I can't find a test mode that is pertinent to that flasher. During what mode is that flasher supposed to go off? Same thing for which test mode? Thanks.
[quoted image]

Lol. The cook isn't a character in the game, therefore, no flash.

#1445 9 days ago

The flasher above the chef is activated during dine time mode

#1446 9 days ago
Quoted from pintime:

The flasher above the chef is activated during dine time mode

Oh yeah, forgot about that !

Its jis only claim to fame!

#1447 9 days ago

Getting an error : wheel not turning. I've read a post talking about tightening the grub nut/screw? Also, I read that the opto sensor failing is a common reason for this error. Anything else I should be looking for? Can the opto be cleaned?

I believe it spins when the machine boots up. Also during gameplay, it shakes back and forth in place..

Thanks!

#1448 9 days ago
Quoted from pintime:

The flasher above the chef is activated during dine time mode

Are you sure about that? It's not in the matrix in the manual, it's not in test mode, and mine isn't even wired in...

#1449 9 days ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

Are you sure about that? It's not in the matrix in the manual, it's not in test mode, and mine isn't even wired in...

There are definitely copper traces on the PCB to FL3, the one in question. It would make sense that it would go off during Dine Time. Maybe I just need to fiddle with it some more - perhaps the connector on this board, or the one in the backbox to the driver. Would like it to work! Question for the group - if it is supposed to flash during Dine Time, and the other two flashers are working even though this one isn't, does that mean that the driver transistor is working? Or would it have a separate transistor driver?

IMG_2373 (resized).jpeg
#1450 9 days ago
Quoted from Flippingr8:

There are definitely copper traces on the PCB to FL3, the one in question. It would make sense that it would go off during Dine Time. Maybe I just need to fiddle with it some more - perhaps the connector on this board, or the one in the backbox to the driver. Would like it to work! Question for the group - if it is supposed to flash during Dine Time, and the other two flashers are working even though this one isn't, does that mean that the driver transistor is working? Or would it have a separate transistor driver?[quoted image]

Ive never seen mine flash lol, too busy playng the game!

But if its connected it should operate in the lamp test.

Its easy to trace the wires and inject 6v into the circuit to see it light up.

There are 1476 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 30.

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