Not sure what you’re asking, but I basically had to crack that area off.

For those who purchase new ramps: for the right ramp, did you reattach the metal plate from the old ramp where the diverted rod runs thru, onto the new ramp somehow?

It’s riveted and I don’t have a machine. Just wondering if it’s that necessary.
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Yes, you must rivet the old parts onto the new ramps.

They will crack really fast without support.

I read thru another forum about a competition ROM for Diner. Is that available anywhere?

I’m thinking I can attach the old metal plate w tiny flat head screws and nuts underneath. Thoughts? Or would something like
A rivet gun work? Never used one.

That’s what I did w my bad cats ramps. Drilled out rivets then moved the metal parts to new ramps and attached w screws (tiny)

blackbeard, One of my repro cups will look
great in your game. You can try the retro brite
if you want but it Might just lighten it. I had no luck with it and it was just a different shade of yellow. hence why I took on the project of the repro cups. . Pm me if you would like one. Big difference. check out the pic
thanks mike

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Sorry,.... what i meant was don't forget to get an MRS for that cup instead of the cherry switch ; )

Dont do it.

The game is worth too much to f#ck it up.

Use the factory 1/8" tubular rivets.

Use the hanson rivet setting tool.
ht-174 (https://www.erivet.com/product_detail.cfm?itemNbr=HT-174)

Get the assorted rivet kit from pinball resource.

Just rivet it like everyone else.

Its fast and easy and not expensive.

If you need help, please ask. Many here can guide you, including me lol.

In a pinch get the tonka rivet tool. Its expensive but easy to use.

I have all the rivet tools (including the press) but use the hanson the most.

I picked up a Diner awhile back and noticed the decal on the cup is different. There is a matching decal inside the cabinet. I always wondered if this was an early run game or if someone decided to customize it.

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Will
Learn riveting. And will be asking questions.

Thanks!!

Hi Blackbeard, I learned how to rivet ramps by watching Ray’s Tech Tips by GRC Pinball on YouTube.

All I have is the Hansen rivet tool. Make sure to get an assortment of different lengths of rivets and also get plenty of small rivet washers. Using the correct length of rivet is important; don’t try to make a rivet that is too long work by beating the crap out of it with the rivet tool. My last bit of advice is that it really helps to have a vice; otherwise it is very difficult to back the rivet with a solid object while punching it from the topside.

Just watched rays video. He does these rivets by hand w a hammer. Didn’t know that was possible.

Any reason to do
It that way as opposed to a gun? Is by hand the way most repairs are made to ramps?

Also, what do I need rivet washers for?

The gun if for pop-rivets, dont use those, they loosen up.

Use a hand clincher for tubular rivets.

Backing washers keep the rivets from pulling thru plastic parts.

Hand clincher? Isn’t that a gun?

I thought I was to use the little punch looking thing to hammer the rivet halves together?

Everything that is not a rivet press is called a hand clincher.

Includung a hammer type setting tool.

https://www.hansonrivet.com/tools-machines/solid-rivet-tools-machines/hand-rivet-clinchers/

The hammer type has the most versatility as it fits into irregular areas that a traditional press will not.

As i said, i have all 3 of the popular clinching tools, but use the Hanson tool the most.

In fact, I can use the Hanson tool exclusively to rivet everything on a game if needed

This cannot be said for the more expensive press option.

A very powerful setup is to mount a piece of 3/4" bar stock about 6" long in a vice as a foundation for hand setting tubular rivets.

I have mounted a huge array of tools in my vice to hammer onto as a foundation. Hammers, wrenches, pry bars, cat paws etc.

Pretty much anything steel, with a smooth flat surface, that fits into the irregular shapes found on games.

The rivets are fairly soft and dont take much force to set them.

You don't have the beat them all to hell.

I use a 32 oz hammer for controlled strikes.

You will make a few mistakes and some rivets wont go in right the first time, but you just drill them out and do it again.

I had to do this with many of of inserts. Press them down and they rise up again the next day. The problem is they are only adhered at one end as the factory adhesive has partially let go. I put wax paper on the PF, then the hard wood block. Put some 2 part epoxy on the lip of the insert in a couple of places. Clamp it for a few hours. I could do 2-3 inserts at a time with one clamped block if they were close to together. Used to have the ball jumping all over the places, now it runs much smoother.

Anyone have a link or
Part number to the metal deflector piece that goes here?

EDIT: Found part. Eject deflector 01-6933

I’d like to get rid of the old operator’s “mod”.
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I just recently bought a Diner and I love it, the question is where can I buy the shooter lane insert that says "top 5 when lit", mine is worn thru the center where the ball travels, the wear trough is quite deep.

Loving the new cup
Thanks Mike200mph!
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I just picked up a nice Diamond Plate example! Order up!

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Redone diner. I love this game. Sold it as original, the buyer rebuilt it completely and new playfield Nd I bought it back. Absolutely gorgeous.

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Blackbeard you are welcome
glad your happy with the new Diner Cup
Glad I could be apart of your resto.
The machine is coming along Nicely !!!
Post pics when you are done...

Has anyone found Diner playfield insert decals they are happy with?

Well... After a five year hiatus I restarting my Diner playfield restore project. I sure hope I can remember how everything goes together! Five years ago, I searched far and wide for good quality playfield inserts only to be disappointed with multiple purchases. My biggest problem are the patrons in the center. The last set of decals I purchased where printed ~97% size vs 100% size. They didn't come close to fitting.

Has anyone had luck with the "new" decal set available from arcade-classics? Others?

Thanks!
-pgregg

Got
My diner back together. Turned out sweet.

Q: is it normal for the jackpot shot thru the spinner to be so hard to land? Seems like it never hits the hole. I always just go
For the Daily Special instead.

Is this
Normal for that spinner shot to the eject hole to be so hard to make?

On mine the jackpot through the spinner is a little tough as well, I also shoot for the daily special usually.

On others I've played (with more flipper power) it was a lot easier.

Perhaps you have a weak-ish left flipper. Seems when that one is strong it goes straight in.

IMG-20201028-WA0004 (resized).jpgIMG-20201028-WA0003 (resized).jpgIMG-20201028-WA0002 (resized).jpgIMG-20201018-WA0008 (resized).jpgIMG-20201018-WA0007 (resized).jpgIMG-20201018-WA0004 (resized).jpgIMG-20200930-WA0011 (resized).jpgIMG-20200930-WA0010 (resized).jpgJust had my Diner fully refurbished with new cabinet decals, new playfield, ramps, plastics and cup + lots more.

The drops look fantastic. Can you share more about them?

anybody nearby have a nice diner that they would like to trade for a nice rocky and bullwinkle? i really would like to join the club

Does anyone else seem to drain when the ball rolls out of the right side of the pop
Bumpers?

Seems to go straight down the middle. So annoying.

Nudge the right side as it comes down that rail and push it to the left flipper.

Gotcha.

So this is normal then?

Mark Ritchie does that with Sorcerer as well, you have to pop the box good!

Mine does it if I don't give it a slap at least. That being said, I rarely lose a ball that way because I expect it and stay ready.

Thanks guys.

Really liking diner. I’m liking the different paths one can take towards big points.

Wish the spinner shot was easier to hit for multiball instead of having to rely on the Today’s Special hole. I guess that’s my only gripe.

I also like that the ramps aren’t too easy to hit. Need to time the tip of the flipper just right.

IIIIIIIIITS DINETIME!!!

Lock a ball and hit the mystery score. It will usually start multiball and then when it kicks it out you already have the first shot towards the rush when it hits the upper hole.

Also get really good at hitting the left ramp repeatedly and build up the jackpot to 12M before dine time. That will give you a nice score by the end of the game.

So far liking it over ww.

It seems a little more going on than taxi.

www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/Diner_Page.html

I bought these for my game a few years ago, a must-have addition. Diner should have been built with these from the factory!

If anyone is interested, I’m selling a used Diner playfield for wall art or restoration. $150 + shipping.

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Price reduction to $125 plus shipping

No longer available

FYI I have a new set of Plastics up in the marketplace for Diner

I am searching for tips on what an "IRQ error" at boot up means and how to fix for my Diner. Any referrals would be appreciated. Thanks

I'd check this out.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinbot-irq-failure

Hi Everyone

Just joined the club with a very mediocre Diner. It has bubbling mylar, raised inserts and some wear at the inlane drop spots. But other than that its in fairly decent shape. And i am actually enjoying it more than i thought i would

It has L2 roms in it, and i see L4 are available. However, i have been unable to find any info about the different revisions. Does anybody know what the differences are, or knows of a changelog?

Anyone need plastics? $10 + shipping. All are good except the three pcs on the very bottom.

-SOLD-
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Hey folks! Just wondering, recently my sound seems to be “off”... timing doesn’t line up. For starters, I’ve lost the “number 1!” Sound on the jukebox. Other times the customers phrases are cut short.

LastlY, replay was originally around 5mil, I’ve noticed it slowly drop since I’ve owned it.. down to 3.2m. Is this due to skill level?

Have a great NyE everyone!

Does anyone know what kind of screws go on the metal bracket that holds the two ramps together?

My diner has sheet metal screws and washers, which I guess isn't right, and I have a feeling I'm losing ball speed when it hits them.

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Is the ball actually hitting them? I replaced the originals with #4, maybe #5, pan head machine screws, nylon washers, and nuts, no interference. The originals, at least on mine, were some coarse thread screws that worked great for one installation but were pretty much wallered out and useless. I’d guess yours will be too if the already replaced with machine screws.