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(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?


By Pinballgeek

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,340 posts
  • 178 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Blackbeard
  • Topic is favorited by 69 Pinsiders

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There are 1340 posts in this topic. You are on page 27 of 27.
#1301 23 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Where's that MRS?

Not sure what you’re asking, but I basically had to crack that area off.

#1302 23 days ago

For those who purchase new ramps: for the right ramp, did you reattach the metal plate from the old ramp where the diverted rod runs thru, onto the new ramp somehow?

It’s riveted and I don’t have a machine. Just wondering if it’s that necessary.
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#1303 23 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

For those who purchase new ramps: for the right ramp, did you reattach the metal plate from the old ramp where the diverted rod runs thru, onto the new ramp somehow?
It’s riveted and I don’t have a machine. Just wondering if it’s that necessary.
[quoted image]

Yes, you must rivet the old parts onto the new ramps.

They will crack really fast without support.

#1304 23 days ago

I read thru another forum about a competition ROM for Diner. Is that available anywhere?

#1305 23 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Yes, you must rivet the old parts onto the new ramps.
They will crack really fast without support.

I’m thinking I can attach the old metal plate w tiny flat head screws and nuts underneath. Thoughts? Or would something like
A rivet gun work? Never used one.

That’s what I did w my bad cats ramps. Drilled out rivets then moved the metal parts to new ramps and attached w screws (tiny)

#1306 23 days ago

blackbeard, One of my repro cups will look
great in your game. You can try the retro brite
if you want but it Might just lighten it. I had no luck with it and it was just a different shade of yellow. hence why I took on the project of the repro cups. . Pm me if you would like one. Big difference. check out the pic
thanks mike

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#1307 23 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Not sure what you’re asking, but I basically had to crack that area off.

Sorry,.... what i meant was don't forget to get an MRS for that cup instead of the cherry switch ; )

#1308 23 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I’m thinking I can attach the old metal plate w tiny flat head screws and nuts underneath. Thoughts? Or would something like
A rivet gun work? Never used one.
That’s what I did w my bad cats ramps. Drilled out rivets then moved the metal parts to new ramps and attached w screws (tiny)

Dont do it.

The game is worth too much to f#ck it up.

Use the factory 1/8" tubular rivets.

Use the hanson rivet setting tool.
ht-174 (https://www.erivet.com/product_detail.cfm?itemNbr=HT-174)

Get the assorted rivet kit from pinball resource.

Just rivet it like everyone else.

Its fast and easy and not expensive.

If you need help, please ask. Many here can guide you, including me lol.

In a pinch get the tonka rivet tool. Its expensive but easy to use.

I have all the rivet tools (including the press) but use the hanson the most.

#1309 23 days ago

I picked up a Diner awhile back and noticed the decal on the cup is different. There is a matching decal inside the cabinet. I always wondered if this was an early run game or if someone decided to customize it.

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#1310 23 days ago

Will
Learn riveting. And will be asking questions.

Thanks!!

#1311 23 days ago

Hi Blackbeard, I learned how to rivet ramps by watching Ray’s Tech Tips by GRC Pinball on YouTube.

All I have is the Hansen rivet tool. Make sure to get an assortment of different lengths of rivets and also get plenty of small rivet washers. Using the correct length of rivet is important; don’t try to make a rivet that is too long work by beating the crap out of it with the rivet tool. My last bit of advice is that it really helps to have a vice; otherwise it is very difficult to back the rivet with a solid object while punching it from the topside.

#1312 23 days ago

Just watched rays video. He does these rivets by hand w a hammer. Didn’t know that was possible.

Any reason to do
It that way as opposed to a gun? Is by hand the way most repairs are made to ramps?

Also, what do I need rivet washers for?

#1313 23 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Just watched rays video. He does these rivets by hand w a hammer. Didn’t know that was possible.
Any reason to do
It that way as opposed to a gun? Is by hand the way most repairs are made to ramps?
Also, what do I need rivet washers for?

The gun if for pop-rivets, dont use those, they loosen up.

Use a hand clincher for tubular rivets.

Backing washers keep the rivets from pulling thru plastic parts.

#1314 23 days ago

Hand clincher? Isn’t that a gun?

I thought I was to use the little punch looking thing to hammer the rivet halves together?

#1315 23 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Hand clincher? Isn’t that a gun?
I thought I was to use the little punch looking thing to hammer the rivet halves together?

Everything that is not a rivet press is called a hand clincher.

Includung a hammer type setting tool.

https://www.hansonrivet.com/tools-machines/solid-rivet-tools-machines/hand-rivet-clinchers/

The hammer type has the most versatility as it fits into irregular areas that a traditional press will not.

As i said, i have all 3 of the popular clinching tools, but use the Hanson tool the most.

In fact, I can use the Hanson tool exclusively to rivet everything on a game if needed

This cannot be said for the more expensive press option.

#1316 23 days ago

A very powerful setup is to mount a piece of 3/4" bar stock about 6" long in a vice as a foundation for hand setting tubular rivets.

I have mounted a huge array of tools in my vice to hammer onto as a foundation. Hammers, wrenches, pry bars, cat paws etc.

Pretty much anything steel, with a smooth flat surface, that fits into the irregular shapes found on games.

The rivets are fairly soft and dont take much force to set them.

You don't have the beat them all to hell.

I use a 32 oz hammer for controlled strikes.

You will make a few mistakes and some rivets wont go in right the first time, but you just drill them out and do it again.

#1317 23 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

SO anyone have luck lowering the center customer and DINER inserts?
I saw a great video where a guy used a harbor freight 12'' c-clamp and some blocks of wood to squeeze the inserts back into place and reglue. No pounding with a mallet or using heat.
Anyone try this ? The guy mentioned wood glue to reglue. Luckily my mylar was already removed without issue.

I had to do this with many of of inserts. Press them down and they rise up again the next day. The problem is they are only adhered at one end as the factory adhesive has partially let go. I put wax paper on the PF, then the hard wood block. Put some 2 part epoxy on the lip of the insert in a couple of places. Clamp it for a few hours. I could do 2-3 inserts at a time with one clamped block if they were close to together. Used to have the ball jumping all over the places, now it runs much smoother.

#1318 19 days ago

Anyone have a link or
Part number to the metal deflector piece that goes here?

EDIT: Found part. Eject deflector 01-6933

I’d like to get rid of the old operator’s “mod”.
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#1319 15 days ago

I just recently bought a Diner and I love it, the question is where can I buy the shooter lane insert that says "top 5 when lit", mine is worn thru the center where the ball travels, the wear trough is quite deep.

#1320 14 days ago

Loving the new cup
Thanks Mike200mph!
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#1321 14 days ago

I just picked up a nice Diamond Plate example! Order up!

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#1322 14 days ago

Redone diner. I love this game. Sold it as original, the buyer rebuilt it completely and new playfield Nd I bought it back. Absolutely gorgeous.

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#1323 14 days ago

Blackbeard you are welcome
glad your happy with the new Diner Cup
Glad I could be apart of your resto.
The machine is coming along Nicely !!!
Post pics when you are done...

#1324 9 days ago

Has anyone found Diner playfield insert decals they are happy with?

Well... After a five year hiatus I restarting my Diner playfield restore project. I sure hope I can remember how everything goes together! Five years ago, I searched far and wide for good quality playfield inserts only to be disappointed with multiple purchases. My biggest problem are the patrons in the center. The last set of decals I purchased where printed ~97% size vs 100% size. They didn't come close to fitting.

Has anyone had luck with the "new" decal set available from arcade-classics? Others?

Thanks!
-pgregg

#1325 7 days ago

Got
My diner back together. Turned out sweet.

Q: is it normal for the jackpot shot thru the spinner to be so hard to land? Seems like it never hits the hole. I always just go
For the Daily Special instead.

Is this
Normal for that spinner shot to the eject hole to be so hard to make?

#1326 7 days ago

On mine the jackpot through the spinner is a little tough as well, I also shoot for the daily special usually.

On others I've played (with more flipper power) it was a lot easier.

Perhaps you have a weak-ish left flipper. Seems when that one is strong it goes straight in.

#1327 3 days ago

IMG-20201028-WA0004 (resized).jpgIMG-20201028-WA0003 (resized).jpgIMG-20201028-WA0002 (resized).jpgIMG-20201018-WA0008 (resized).jpgIMG-20201018-WA0007 (resized).jpgIMG-20201018-WA0004 (resized).jpgIMG-20200930-WA0011 (resized).jpgIMG-20200930-WA0010 (resized).jpgJust had my Diner fully refurbished with new cabinet decals, new playfield, ramps, plastics and cup + lots more.

#1328 3 days ago

The drops look fantastic. Can you share more about them?

#1329 2 days ago

anybody nearby have a nice diner that they would like to trade for a nice rocky and bullwinkle? i really would like to join the club

#1330 1 day ago

Does anyone else seem to drain when the ball rolls out of the right side of the pop
Bumpers?

Seems to go straight down the middle. So annoying.

#1331 1 day ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Does anyone else seem to drain when the ball rolls out of the right side of the pop
Bumpers?
Seems to go straight down the middle. So annoying.

Nudge the right side as it comes down that rail and push it to the left flipper.

#1332 1 day ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Nudge the right side as it comes down that rail and push it to the left flipper.

Gotcha.

So this is normal then?

#1333 1 day ago

Mark Ritchie does that with Sorcerer as well, you have to pop the box good!

#1334 1 day ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Gotcha.
So this is normal then?

Mine does it if I don't give it a slap at least. That being said, I rarely lose a ball that way because I expect it and stay ready.

#1335 1 day ago

Thanks guys.

Really liking diner. I’m liking the different paths one can take towards big points.

Wish the spinner shot was easier to hit for multiball instead of having to rely on the Today’s Special hole. I guess that’s my only gripe.

I also like that the ramps aren’t too easy to hit. Need to time the tip of the flipper just right.

#1336 1 day ago

IIIIIIIIITS DINETIME!!!

#1337 1 day ago

Hey folks, my Diner has LED's almost everywhere but I still have incandescent #89 flashers under the character inserts. Any advice on a recommended replacement for these? I would like to get rid of the heat under those inserts as they are lifting. Thanks.

#1338 1 day ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Thanks guys.
Really liking diner. I’m liking the different paths one can take towards big points.
Wish the spinner shot was easier to hit for multiball instead of having to rely on the Today’s Special hole. I guess that’s my only gripe.
I also like that the ramps aren’t too easy to hit. Need to time the tip of the flipper just right.

Lock a ball and hit the mystery score. It will usually start multiball and then when it kicks it out you already have the first shot towards the rush when it hits the upper hole.

#1339 1 day ago

Also get really good at hitting the left ramp repeatedly and build up the jackpot to 12M before dine time. That will give you a nice score by the end of the game.

#1340 1 day ago

So far liking it over ww.

It seems a little more going on than taxi.

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