(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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  • 2,027 posts
  • 230 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by Sonic
  • Topic is favorited by 83 Pinsiders

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There are 2,027 posts in this topic. You are on page 26 of 41.
#1251 3 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Don and I had a little back and forth about this in a PM. I have long been frustrated that the cup shot is nearly impossible to score a satisfying number of spins off of. On my machine, it *cannot* be done from a cradle - you absolutely must do it on the fly, meaning making the ramp and then immediately nailing it *JUST RIGHT* if you're gonna get the big spins that are the point of the feature. I'm not the greatest player, but I'm not THAT BAD, and I have had this machine for 5 years. It's baffling, because I'm pretty sure I remember seeing the cup hit from a cradle in the PAPA tutorial.
YES, I have proper voltage to the flippers, YES, I have rebuilt the flippers according to Vid's GUide, YES I have replace the cabinet switches, YES the boards have been professionally serviced, YES I replaced the old flame-polished (read:warped and no longer smooth) ramps with a new set form Starship Fantasy. The game otherwise plays great, and YES I can sometimes pull off a 3MIL shot, but it has to be timed EXACTLY. Otherwise it's likelier to be 1-3 spins.
Orange coils were a marginal improvement, but I do have concerns about wailing on the drop targets and plastics.
Anyway...just wondering if others have had the same issues.

Yes, cup spins are anemic from a cradled position. I really like it this way.
The game is simple enough that this adds a great fun challenge.

But from a rebound, 3.5 to 4 mil is common.

Maybe check your flipper angle as compared to the holes in the playfiled, instead of lining up with the lane guides which is common and way wrong for this game.

Flipper angle is critical for proper gameplay, they should droop slightly to make it easy to hit the ramp.

I set mine dead on with the holes and it plays really well with the regular coils.

If you have a replacement playfield that doesn't have the alignment holes, the flippers droop about 1/8" from the centerline. The flipper tip is centered on the centerline of the lane guides.

#1252 3 years ago

I still haven't seen more than a 3 spins in the cup BUT at least I can make it up to the cup and get a spin or 3 now! I know I just need to practice more and get the timing right.

#1253 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

I still haven't seen more than a 3 spins in the cup BUT at least I can make it up to the cup and get a spin or 3 now! I know I just need to practice more and get the timing right.

I just saw Pinballgoddess make 23 spins.

The cup score maxed at the 3.5 mil, but the high speed spins were incredible.

All on standard coils.

#1254 3 years ago

It is usually something subtle that takes the energy out of the ball. On mine the previous owner had patched together the ramp heading to the cup and the ball was tripping on a ledge from the repair killing all the energy. In my case I replaced the ramp and the ball entry to the cup was way better. You might try doing some slow motion video of each part of the ball's path.

#1255 3 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

It is usually something subtle that takes the energy out of the ball. On mine the previous owner had patched together the ramp heading to the cup and the ball was tripping on a ledge from the repair killing all the energy. In my case I replaced the ramp and the ball entry to the cup was way better. You might try doing some slow motion video of each part of the ball's path.

I do have brand new ramps.

#1256 3 years ago

Desperately in need of a nice used coffee cup. In the middle of shopping my game I dropped the cup. It was nice for a yellowed cup, but now it is cracked and has a chip. PM me if you have one to sell.
thx

#1257 3 years ago
Quoted from izzy:

Desperately in need of a nice used coffee cup. In the middle of shopping my game I dropped the cup. It was nice for a yellowed cup, but now it is cracked and has a chip. PM me if you have one to sell.
thx

I recently saw someone finished a batch of new cups. I forget who or where though. FB group maybe?

#1258 3 years ago

Thx. I've seen those here on Pinside. Thx to several Pinsiders response here or about my wanted ad, I've been able to buy a used one.

1 week later
#1259 3 years ago
Quoted from izzy:

Thx. I've seen those here on Pinside. Thx to several Pinsiders response here or about my wanted ad, I've been able to buy a used one.

Anyone else have a used cup? Hit me up. Thanks

#1260 3 years ago

Just a heads up on these PINGRAFFIX Art Blades I purchased for a Diner Pin I was restoring for a customer. Really poor quality in colors and focus as seen in the pictures against the original colors and sharpness of the pin. I bought these because on their website it states... "These delectably delicious-looking inner art PinBlades™ match the game perfectly. Looks like they came from the factory. Give your awesome Williams Diner Pinball machine that final touch to complete your perfect meal."... Clearly not close to factory techniques even from the 90s! After showing these to the customer and a local Pin restorer, they didnt want these or use them in their pins. In the second pic I put a wallbox like theirs, that I printed on my cheap printer, to show how much clearer it could be and to show the picture was in focus. No sorry from them on the quality or let us ship out a new one, just " return it for a refund". Not the type of quality and service that I have seen on here or dealing with other Pinsiders. Awesome site! Always learning! Thanks for all the help!

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#1261 3 years ago

After a bunch of games I have to say that the blue coils work really well on my diner. If you're having trouble getting up the cup ramp, these coils will help. They're not so powerful that they feel like they will break plastics of drop targets.
I know some people switched to the orange which is ever so slightly more powerful than the originals, but they still had trouble with the cup shot.
Skip the orange and go right to the blue. You will thank me. >

#1262 3 years ago
Quoted from d0n:

After a bunch of games I have to say that the blue coils work really well on my diner. If you're having trouble getting up the cup ramp, these coils will help. They're not so powerful that they feel like they will break plastics of drop targets.
I know some people switched to the orange which is ever so slightly more powerful than the originals, but they still had trouble with the cup shot.
Skip the orange and go right to the blue. You will thank me. >

What's the number on these coils you are using?

#1263 3 years ago
Quoted from debaser:

What's the number on these coils you are using?

I found the number in this thread. I can't remember actually and have sold the game.

#1264 3 years ago

I’m in!

2D466144-CB7C-4F60-9F5A-A19705E587C4 (resized).jpeg2D466144-CB7C-4F60-9F5A-A19705E587C4 (resized).jpeg
#1265 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I’m in![quoted image]

Nice original cabinet and door!

#1266 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Nice original cabinet and door!

Thanks. Need to
Locate the correct credit button. And needs shopped.

Looks daunting.

#1267 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I’m in![quoted image]

Finally? You been after a one for a while? No?

#1268 3 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

Finally? You been after a one for a while? No?

Oh a few years now. This just popped up 2 hours away to I went fast.

The ramp system seems complete
For shopping
Purposes.

#1269 3 years ago

What’s the consensus on shopping it? Like order of ramps etx?

Does pf need to be pulled out?

#1270 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

What’s the consensus on shopping it? Like order of ramps etx?
Does pf need to be pulled out?

Only to get behind the cup. I find easiest. A few light sockets behind there. wires seem to come off for some reason?

#1271 3 years ago
Quoted from cavalier88z24:

Only to get behind the cup. I find easiest. A few light sockets behind there. wires seem to come off for some reason?

So it
Can be shopped with the pf In place then?

#1272 3 years ago

Yes for the most part. I just did mine. But getting behind that cup can be pain

#1273 3 years ago

Guys this doesn’t look correct. This metal price.

Any ideas?

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#1274 3 years ago

Definitely is not

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#1275 3 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Definitely is not[quoted image]

Ok any idea where it goes?

#1276 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Ok any idea where it goes?

I can check mine tonight if no one answers before that. I know mine had that piece but can't remember where at the moment.

#1277 3 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I can check mine tonight if no one answers before that. I know mine had that piece but can't remember where at the moment.

Awesome. Let me know please.

#1278 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys this doesn’t look correct. This metal price.
Any ideas?

First, its upside down, and I believe it mounts to lower screws on the back of the cash register, i'm going from memory, i'm at work right now.
Also, I'm thinking that piece was remade by someone, apparently out of stainless... The original is bright mirror-chrome.

#1279 3 years ago

Here, I found this online...

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#1280 3 years ago

Thanks. Looks like it also has a plastic on it?

#1281 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Thanks. Looks like it also has a plastic on it?

no, its just a reflection of the speaker panel, its mirror chrome.

#1282 3 years ago

Anyone have any thoughts on how to tackle the playfield in terms of shopping it? Like order to remove ramps, etc.?

#1283 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Anyone have any thoughts on how to tackle the playfield in terms of shopping it? Like order to remove ramps, etc.?

I like to pull out the playfield.
completely strip the top and bottom.
Repair, touch-up and clearcoat.
Then re-assemble with new or refurbished parts.

While the playfield is out, clean and repair the cabinet.

#1284 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I like to pull out the playfield.
completely strip the top and bottom.
Repair, touch-up and clearcoat.
Then re-assemble with new or refurbished parts.
While the playfield is out, clean and repair the cabinet.

thanks.

I'm just looking to shop it however, hopefully not having to remove the pf.

Does anyone have any insight about beginning the teardown on this one? Order of ramps?

#1285 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

thanks.
I'm just looking to shop it however, hopefully not having to remove the pf.
Does anyone have any insight about beginning the teardown on this one? Order of ramps?

I had just removed the ramps on mine to do this.. It was fairly uncomplicated, I recall only one thing from the underside needed to be removed (the diverter to the cup). Maybe take pictures so you remember where all the screws and posts go for re-assembly..

The only part I had any difficulty with was the cup. I had to pull off the back rise on the playfield to get access to finagle that out and back in.. I had pulled the play field out, so i could replace the cup. But even here I am sure I could of done it with it in the cabinet..

#1286 3 years ago

Guys where are you getting the coffee cup repros?

Anyone have a link to the goods?

#1287 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys where are you getting the coffee cup repros?
Anyone have a link to the goods?

Hit up mike200mph

#1288 3 years ago

Wow. New ramps and cup are like $500!

#1289 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Wow. New ramps and cup are like $500!

New cup looks really nice.. There is another option if your old cup is only yellowed.. People have been painting them white, that looks good too.. I may try that with my old cup and see how it comes out..

#1290 3 years ago

I’ll likely just bite the bullet and spend the loot. Just hurts!

#1291 3 years ago

I RetroBrited my cup, the liquid version and left it in the sun. Much of the yellowing is near the surface and my cup came out much better, a little yellow left but not much.

#1292 3 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I RetroBrited my cup, the liquid version and left it in the sun. Much of the yellowing is near the surface and my cup came out much better, a little yellow left but not much.

Wow never heard of this stuff. Is it a Home Depot buy?

#1293 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Wow never heard of this stuff. Is it a Home Depot buy?

https://retro-brite.com/

#1294 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Wow never heard of this stuff. Is it a Home Depot buy?

Its the peroxide that they sell at beauty supply stores.

Very potent.

Mixed with heat and UV its pretty effective.

#1295 3 years ago

SO anyone have luck lowering the center customer and DINER inserts?

I saw a great video where a guy used a harbor freight 12'' c-clamp and some blocks of wood to squeeze the inserts back into place and reglue. No pounding with a mallet or using heat.

Anyone try this ? The guy mentioned wood glue to reglue. Luckily my mylar was already removed without issue.

#1296 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

SO anyone have luck lowering the center customer and DINER inserts?
I saw a great video where a guy used a harbor freight 12'' c-clamp and some blocks of wood to squeeze the inserts back into place and reglue. No pounding with a mallet or using heat.
Anyone try this ? The guy mentioned wood glue to reglue. Luckily my mylar was already removed without issue.

warm the area with a hair dryer for about 10 mins.

blocks of wood arent flat.

Use hardwood flooring samples from home depot on both sides.

It works great.

#1297 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

warm the area with a hair dryer for about 10 mins.
blocks of wood arent flat.
Use hardwood flooring samples from home depot on both sides.
It works great.

Did you reglue? Or does heating somehow reactivate the old glue?

#1298 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Did you reglue? Or does heating somehow reactivate the old glue?

re-gluing isnt necessary unless you remove the inserts.

They are held in with a type of mastic glue that stays soft and sticky.

Maybe anchor them with epoxy to keep them from slipping down. The gap under the insert is pretty narrow normally. But if you can get some glue in there it might help.

Maybe CA gel and a syringe? I havent tried that yet.

#1299 3 years ago

So I’m mid shop. I need to get these two tiny screws out that connect the cup to the right ramp.

The issue is they’re basically not turning. I can get a tiny screw driver in there, but just cannot get them out. Any suggestions?!

F5DA3A4F-D3DF-4C0E-8F8E-76F967F2B564 (resized).jpegF5DA3A4F-D3DF-4C0E-8F8E-76F967F2B564 (resized).jpeg
#1300 3 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

So I’m mid shop. I need to get these two tiny screws out that connect the cup to the right ramp.
The issue is they’re basically not turning. I can get a tiny screw driver in there, but just cannot get them out. Any suggestions?![quoted image]

Where's that MRS?

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