Just picked up a nice Diner. Only issue left to address is the drop targets. Somebody hacked up the connectors on the drop target boards pretty good and had them attached to the pins with zip ties. lol Was hoping somebody could snap some pics of their 4 connectors. Want to confirm the wires before I rebuild them, fairly certain mine are wired wrong. Thank you!
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I've seen the zip tie thing a bunch on boards. Esp since most of these were on route. It helped to ensure that the connectors didn't wiggle loose thus resulting in machines not working correctly and more service calls. That said it does look like your drop connectors have been "repaired" in the past. Sorry I'm not at home to offer any pics of mine right now.

GL

schematic shows the right adress hope it can help
green side has taken from side drop targets

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That will work. Thank you.

Hello fellow Diner owners!
After designing hot dog switch covers awhile back I was inspired to create the Diner Dine Time kit.
Items are available from my new Pinside shop individually or as a kit. Arriba!

UpKick Pinball

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Oh wow, I really like that and will order a kit. Not usually a fan of mods and add-ons, but that's really well done.

I can not for the life of me loosen the set screw for the right ramp diverter. Any tips?

Struggled with it for hours and finally just drilled it out.

Had some time at home, so I thought I'd add something to the drop targets and made these. I see them as a parody of real condiment packets.
Not sure which to use, but have my bases covered.

Diner_drop_Decals.pdf

Finally got the weather and time to get this cup mod done. I like how it turned out and figured I'd share some pictures here.
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-Jim

What?! No MRS?? Jim, I feel neglected...

Holy crap, I love it!!
Did you simply paint the original?
I have fantasized about a white cup since the first time I saw this machine! How do I do that?

Thanks, yeah i love it and had wanted to do it for a while. I used a dremel, files and sand paper to shape the handle. I used paint and taped off the inside so the ball doesn't come in contact with it... I used white vinyl on the bottom side of the "saucer". It turned out nice and was cheaper and IMHO better than a replacement clear cup. I printed the sticker on white vinyl.
You should go for it!
-Jim

it really looks nice!

A big shout out to @Cliffy, I just purchased some new ramp flaps from him for the cash register ramp and just installed them. Mine were cracked and the previous owner had duct tape holding It together. I’m really happy with how it turned out! Here’s some before and after pics. Thanks again Cliff!

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Shoot, and here I up and bought a rivet press so I could do this fix
(PinBot and Diner are both in the collection)
I thought about going stainless for the durability, but honestly I prefer the blue-black spring steel look. Just means having to replace it once in a while...

Just finished my Diner CPR playfield swap. Very happy with how it turned out! Color matched most inserts, for the GI, I went with warm whites, with a couple cool whites in the backbox (lamp posts) and red for the clock. Powder coated the habitrail electric yellow locally and repainted the coin door per Bryan Kelly’s youtube video:

Thanks to mike200mph for the new cup and Sonic for the awesome MRS cup switch. It works great and I highly recommend it!

I’m thinking of getting the new design plain Pingraffix Pinblades to finish it off but not sure yet.

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/diner-pinball-machine-plain

Anyways here’s a few pics of the old playfield and the newly swapped CPR and a video.

It’s DINE TIME!!!

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Holy cow - that thing looks amazing! Thanks for the thumbs up as well Jason! I forgot you bought the trifecta - Taxi, Diner & Creech.....that's a lot of MRS....

With the repro cups now being manufactured, does anyone have an old yellowed cup they'd like to get rid of? PM me if so.

I finally finished my Diner restoration about a month ago. Spent way too much time and money on this one. New CPR playfield, plastics and backglass, new ramps, NOS cup that I've had for years, Topper, red under cabinet lighting , upgraded speakers, Comet LED's, Titan rings, cut and riveted new blued stainless on the up/down ramp, and a lot more. I replaced the lock bar receiver with one of the excellent stainless ones from Mantis, tumble polished everything I could and replaced whatever hardware that didn't look new with stainless. Installed an NVRAM and recapped the power supply and changed the zeners to 91 volt ones. Repaired the GI connectors and on, and on, and on. Anyway it looks and plays like new so I guess the effort was worth it.

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Beautiful resto, well done.

I was a bit cheesed off that the CPR sling plastics were such a different colour to the originals, but actually it matches the colour they used on the playfield so actually it works well... so long as the playfield is CPR too I guess!

I thought the originals had just faded over time, but I agree that the purple CPR plastics look better on their playfield.

As far as the main fuse?

Then yes. 7 or 8 is good.

5 amp for euro versions usually.

Anyone looking to sell?

When we tested our game room, the electrician recommended no more than 6 games on the 20a breaker with 20a wire in tbe wall.

This gives us a ceilling of 75% so that nothing would be strained and no heat build up for total safety.

This also takes into account our coke machine and neon signs also on the same breaker.

So im thinking 8 games as an absolute max, with little else running.

Im running 6 dual outlets to spread out the load.

Yes, I asked the electrician about that.

My question was whats the difference between a big multi outlet strip vs 6 dual outlets, since they are all on the same 20a line and same 20a breaker added to my panel.

He said its a matter of load per outlet, per outlet wire. Being rated for specific loads per wall outlet.

So, I said "OK" and I basically have a dual outlet under or between each game.

Two different screws for the Eject Ball Deflectors?

It appears from a couple of restoration photos that the three eject ball deflectors use two "normal" 1/2-inch hex head screws, but the middle one is a phillips head screw. I am doing a playfield swap on my Diner, but I removed the top of playfield components a LONG time ago (long story), so I do not recall how mine were. I saw the 2&1 setup on a couple of people's teardown photos, so this is likely correct.

But - what is the length of the center phillips-head screw? 1/2" like the hex head? Or is it 3/8" or a longer one? Perhaps to distribute the force differently over a a couple of plywood layers?

Thanks!

Matt

The photo is a screen capture of portion of a Pinsider's teardown photos.

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I have Diner that wont turn on. Had one repair guy come out and he blew the fuse when he tried repairing it. He has now flaked twice on me to come back to fix what he did. Anyone know anyone in the Los Angeles area that can be trusted to rehab/fix pins, specifically Diner? Help, lol. I am fine with leaving it at someone's shop to repair.

So i may be joining the club, but the diner i'm looking at needs shopped. I've shopped a few system 11s, (bad cats, pinbot, police force, to name a few).

Always seems to be snapping those damn posts..

Anyway, i've read that diner is a bitch to shop. Anyone with insight on this? Posts snapping like crazy?

EDIT: looks like diner i'm looking at was shopped.

I just did a CPR playfield swap. The posts were a bitch on mine to remove as they all had loctite or something on them. I had to heat each one to remove. I snapped a couple screws or posts.

I would suggest calling Marco's (1-803-957-5500) and asking them. They recently have been collecting and building a database of pinball repair techs by location. Alternatively, if you want to bring it to our shop here in Houston I could fix it for you.

Summer Special @ M&M Creations!!!

We are offering the Diner Cup MRS for $20 (plus shipping) from now until July 15th. Simply PM me. That's $10 off the regular price - sale ends noon (EST) on 7/15.

Thanks!

Matt & Dan
M&M Creations

here is mine the lenght of it almost same I think it is little bit stronger screw

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Yes
Its a standard 2 wood screws and a bolt setup.

Thanks, guys! Just wanted to be sure.

One other question came to mind in the meantime. The rubber kit contains (3) of item "L" - #23-6645 Bumper Pad (the blue rubber stick-on pads), but the chart in the manual only shows two of them. Does the third one go on the different-shaped Eject Ball Deflector, the one on the Upper Left Ball Ejector? If so, does the long dimension go side to side? Or vertical, like the other two?

Thanks again in advance!

Matt

Where does this GI bulb connect to under the playfield? The picture is from another Pinsider's teardown, and it appears the wires go through that otherwise unused hole. But the typical 2-pin Molex connector used in the game will not fit through this hole.

Do these two wires just get soldered on one of the nearby GI bulbs underneath? Not certain if this bulb was even on my game when I disassembled the top a few years ago. I did not have this socket in the the boxes of parts I removed. I have a new socket and bulb ready - just wondered how the production games were made.

Thanks!

Matt

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If the contact pads are worn out on the light board. Put a little solder on them. Just a thin coat.

If it's a twist off holder with a wedge based socket, the little metal holder tabs can be bent inward a bit to make better contact and a snugger bit for the bulb..

Nice tip!

Looking for a Diner shooter gauge apron as mine is damaged. Thanks

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That's probably a salvageable part.
Some JB Weld on the crack and a new paint job...if you have another shooter gauge you can use short term, send me yours and I can do the repair and repainting.