I just joined the club!!

I've looked for a long time and I have to say this has been the most difficult seller I have ever encountered...but I finally have one!!!

I am missing the cash register and some other plastics. Does anyone have them or a lead on where to get them?

Show us pics of your new game!

Congrats Thomas! And welcome to the club!

Yes when you get a second post some pics

That's going to be tough.

Might have to make one, it's just a little metal box with a decal and cutout for the lights.

Plastics are easy to get.

Wow! That playfield looks great!
Way better than mine.

That game looks like it will clean up beautifully.

Great find.

The cash register is kind of an odd thing to be missing.

Agree. The guy says he has it somewhere...but he has no clue. He didn't remember half the stuff he had.

I need the middle plastic if anyone can steer me in the right direction.

Also, what goes on the green circle area behind the back glass? (Pic for reference)

Screenshot_20191011-005806~2 (resized).png

The clock stopper motor. Interrupter and clock decal?

It looks like you might have the opto pc-board installed only, just missing some parts.

Better pics front and back would be a help.

I would definitely press him for the cash register. It might be unobtanium.

Can anyone tell me the count and types of LEDs that are in Diner?

I would use only 2smd sunlight color. Frosted lens from comet.

Get 100 each of the 555 and 44 base style.

I always use comet frosted sunlight. I'm just not sure if how many of each style (47, 555, 906)

I just buy the bulk packs of 100.
I always use them up and order more lol.

5smd cool white towers for the 906 bulbs, buy 25 at a time.

I only get a few of the 8smd cool white replacements for the 89 bulbs.
There seems to be only 1 or 2 in a game.

I need to touch up the cab on my diner. Does anyone know which brand of paints and what color code/style match the best?

The cab was stenciled but you can get a decal set for about the cost of materials for stenciling.

Check out all the krylon colors.
They have generally been a good match for colors and original style if paint

Krylon semi gloss for the black

Is there a guide for System 11 playfield removal? I have pulled many playfields on early Bally SS machines, but not on a System 11 before. At first glance it looks like there are 20+ connectors to remove all over the back box. It looks like I should separate the cabinet harnesses from the playfield ones, the whole mess is tie wrapped together and I would rather leave things connected that can stay that way.

Remove as many wire ties as necessary to separate the harnesses to make the job easier, but it shouldn't be super necessary unless someone way over did it.

Label the connectors with a sharpie for easy reassembly.

Disconnect the playfied ones. Stuff them into the cabinet.

Some wires go to the power harness, not the playfield.

Put the game on the ground (with legs off) to make it easier to remove the playfield.

You wont have to lift it as high.

Does anyone know what size/type the screws in the sling star posts are?

Are they listed in the manual?

Sounds like you are confirming the need to separate cabinet harnesses from playfield ones where they dangle down out of the head.

Any idea how many connectors I will have removed when I do it? There seem to be switch strobes and returns all times 2, lighting matrix, solenoid power lines.

Guys: I have a couple leads on a diner. However, they both really need shopped.

I know it's relative to experience, but how difficult is the shop out on diner?

It's no more difficult than any other game.

I find it easier to work on with the playfield removed and put on my rotisserie. For a total tear down.

Diner is def one of the more involved Sys11 as a tear down and shop. I just finished a playfield swap. There are lots of mechs under the playfield that need to be torn down cleaned and so forth.

But an freshly shopped machine always plays so great.

It would just be top side.

I would say removing the ramps is easy but you need to make sure you know how the flaps on the top end of the left ramp connect to the continued ramp behind it for instance. The other ramps are fiddly but not hard. Removing the cup is challenging and you need to move the play field forward several inches. You will spend a huge amount of time not getting at things until the playfield is moved.

Cleaning the mechanism underneath is pretty straightforward but 2 things to keep in mind. On mine after changing the sleeve on the under playfield shooter lane mechanism, it got so strong it was firing the ball into the jukebox. I had already thrown out the sleeve so I had to limit its travel to slow it down. On the ramp diverter, that solenoid plunger needs to bottom out fully or the diverter sits there and makes a loud buzz whenever it operates.

Maybe a weaker shooter spring..?
Mine had the wrong spring in it.

I am talking about the under playfield shooter. The solenoid suddenly got a lot stronger with a clean sleeve. The spring is just a recoil spring to push the plunger back.

Blackbeard, take care the playfield doesn’t have raised “DINER” and customer inserts. Otherwise, fixing that will be the most important task of your shopout.

The few I’ve been offered have raised inserts. Isn’t it somewhat easy to heat them from below and push them down?

I suspect most of them have this issue. They won't stay if you push them down, on mine it was quite severe and you could flex them down visibly quite easily. What saved the playfield was the factory mylar that just tented up with the inserts. I followed Vid1900's approach to fix them. Removed light sockets and things in the way. I roughened up the perimeter wall of the insert just a bit (did not touch the part we see through). Applied 2 part epoxy underneath where the insert meets the wood around the perimeter using a cheap plumbing flux brush. Placed wax paper over the insert, just in case, then a small hardwood block. Did a similar block underneath and used a deep throat C clamp to hold in place until cured. I did two inserts at a time this way. I got mine down very close to level, no more fly balls hitting the flippers.

Trying to visualize this. Are you talking about roughening up the parimeter wall of the insert itself (the small part protruding above the pf) OR are you talking about the parimeter wall of the insert hole of the pf, underneath the pf?

EDIT: scanned vids how-to. I think you mean you actually popped out the insert, roughed up the edge, epoxied, and then clamped.

Do you always have to pop it out? Or can you just heat it up, push it down, glue and clamp? Or will this not be adequate?

No need to pop anything out unless the whole thing is loose. On mine, the ends towards the bottom of the playfield were still bonded. The upper ends were disconnected and they had all ramped upward.

What I meant is I roughed up the vertical walls of the inserts. I then put epoxy bridging the vertical sidewall of the inserts onto the wood of the playfield.

I think I see.

So you roughed up the edges of the insert sticking up out of
The pf, then applied epoxy underneath, and clamped them back down?

Also: when doing this, doesn’t it leave a line around the insert edge where it lifted and broke the old art/any clear the pf had? I supposed a black paint pen could conceal that break in the edge.

s

I wish I had a good photo. 100% of everything is from below the playfield, hopefully the diagram makes it clear.

Insert (resized).jpg

Makes sense now. I see youre roughing up the inside of the insert's edges. I was thinking the outside edge..

Hate to throw this out there during this tech talk. I have a chance to buy a diamond pf diner in excellent condition. 3k. Thoughts.?

My thoughts are I'm jealous and if you pass, I'd like to buy it.

Well Im new to the Diner experience.
I played once in a tournament it was the first game in a pre determined line-up.
I was first and had three quick drainers.

I really like all system 11s. Ive had Dr Dude, big guns jokerz.
I own a non working road kings.

I am not sure I understand, a Diner with a diamond plate PF (good deal), or just the PF for $3k (terrible deal).

3k is a good price!
Should make for a great restoration candidate.

Any news on the Coffee Cup. My restoration is waiting on this part?

Somebody can help me? How can I pull the Coffee Cup from the wood frame? Any advice?
I want to clean and some inspection, so it needs to remove off the play field. I think now must remove the back panel I try to avoid removing.

cup (resized).jpg

Yes, you have to remove the back panel.

The metal flap in the shooter lane on my Diner is pretty badly corroded. I imagine this is a common problem - is there a way to improve the look of it (as I start on my CPR swap)? Or is there a source for a replacement? I see that Pinbits lists that part on their site but no longer has them in stock.

It is made from the same thin metal stock as are used at the base of ramps. It cuts well with scissors I made my own.