(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?


By Pinballgeek

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 996 posts
  • 144 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Completist
  • Topic is favorited by 56 Pinsiders

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There are 996 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 20.
#951 31 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Sand down to bare wood or just enough to make smooth?
Paint the cab black with what kind of paint? (Oil/latex, flat/glossy?)
Also, is it possible to do all the outside artwork without having to remove the playfield or backbox pcb’s?

It is very possible to do the outside without removing the playfield.

There's a video of a guy who just layed the game on its side.

Pretty slick.

It's not recommended, but possible.

You have to remove the head and side rails so...after the playfield is all un plugged, pull it out of the cab...

Sand it all off, paint with rustoleum 2x gray primer then paint with rustoleum 2x satin black.

#952 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

It is very possible to do the outside without removing the playfield.
There's a video of a guy who just layed the game on its side.
Pretty slick.
It's not recommended, but possible.
You have to remove the head and side rails so...after the playfield is all un plugged, pull it out of the cab...
Sand it all off, paint with rustoleum 2x gray primer then paint with rustoleum 2x satin black.

Thanks for the info. What grit sandpaper should I be using?

The backbox has a few chunks missing from the corners.

Bondo or wood putty?

#953 31 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Thanks for the info. What grit sandpaper should I be using?
The backbox has a few chunks missing from the corners.
Bondo or wood putty?

Sounds like a total restoration is in order.

Peruse vids cabinet restoration thread

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide

#954 29 days ago

Successfully completed my first pinball maintenance task tonight. Feeling great about it. I’ve had an issue with the ramp lift not opening to get the ball lock. It has been trying and sometimes does it, but mostly not.

After pouring over the manual and lifting up the Playfield to try and figure out what I was looking at under there and overwhelmed at just how many parts make up that unit, I slowed down and reassessed. Instead of going all out and buying completely new mechanisms altogether I decided to shoot conservative and just focus on the things that would most likely wear out: coil sleeve, springs, and a lift crank lock plate. I went ahead and got some new clips and washers too mostly so I would have some but why not make everything a little fresh.

Man, that lift assembly rod that physically lifts the ramp is a pain to get out of there. I had to remove the plastic along the side and the cash register in order to actually get in there enough to unscrew the nut (I had hoped to not have to do all that). Underneath the mechanism was alright but the joints were greased up from a previous owner. I took it all apart and cleaned it. Fresh sleeve and springs. That tiny spring on casing around the smaller coil promptly shot across the room. So glad I bought two just in case! On closer assessment the lift crank lock plate probably wasn’t worn enough to really affect the mechanism but I traded it out anyway since I had one.

Anyway, it was a chore to put back together but I got it built back and then tested it before re-screwing all the plastics and ramps. It worked! My ramp lift will open for multiball lock once again! I’m also feeling good about my first mechanical troubleshoot as an owner. Next step will be flipper rebuilding!

#955 29 days ago
Quoted from life_boy:

Successfully completed my first pinball maintenance task tonight. Feeling great about it. I’ve had an issue with the ramp lift not opening to get the ball lock. It has been trying and sometimes does it, but mostly not.
After pouring over the manual and lifting up the Playfield to try and figure out what I was looking at under there and overwhelmed at just how many parts make up that unit, I slowed down and reassessed. Instead of going all out and buying completely new mechanisms altogether I decided to shoot conservative and just focus on the things that would most likely wear out: coil sleeve, springs, and a lift crank lock plate. I went ahead and got some new clips and washers too mostly so I would have some but why not make everything a little fresh.
Man, that lift assembly rod that physically lifts the ramp is a pain to get out of there. I had to remove the plastic along the side and the cash register in order to actually get in there enough to unscrew the nut (I had hoped to not have to do all that). Underneath the mechanism was alright but the joints were greased up from a previous owner. I took it all apart and cleaned it. Fresh sleeve and springs. That tiny spring on casing around the smaller coil promptly shot across the room. So glad I bought two just in case! On closer assessment the lift crank lock plate probably wasn’t worn enough to really affect the mechanism but I traded it out anyway since I had one.
Anyway, it was a chore to put back together but I got it built back and then tested it before re-screwing all the plastics and ramps. It worked! My ramp lift will open for multiball lock once again! I’m also feeling good about my first mechanical troubleshoot as an owner. Next step will be flipper rebuilding!

Great job!

A little patience and perservarance pays off big time!

Glad you got it sorted out.
Absolutely rebuild the flippers its pretty easy...

"Get lead out!"
"Your too slow!"
"We dont have all day!" Lol

#956 29 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I ordered a new clock wheel from marco:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8161
Part number looks correct.
Mine is very loose and crooked fitting. Plus a big chunk is missing from the arbor.
I drilled an tapped higher up as a fix but its awfully crispy plastic now.
It works good for now, but will probably crack off again.
Does anyone have a NOS or repro clock hand decal?
I can scan and make one but maybe one from vinyl would be more durable.

if you make scan i can do repro. i dont have this decal on my diner, and i still need it also.

#957 28 days ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

if you make scan i can do repro. i dont have this decal on my diner, and i still need it also.

let me see what I can do!

Does anyone here have a scan of the diner clock decal handy?

Im just getting lazy....

#958 24 days ago

I saw this today. The artwork is similar to the instruction cards on my Diner

20190724_173843 (resized).jpg20190724_173903 (resized).jpg
#959 24 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

let me see what I can do!
Does anyone here have a scan of the diner clock decal handy?
Im just getting lazy....

No one has a scan of the clock hand?

PM me if you do.

#960 21 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

No one has a scan of the clock hand?
PM me if you do.

Just pull the image from Marco and print it on an white inkjet full-page decal... Piece of cake! The trick will be to orient it correctly.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1559-571-2

#961 21 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Just pull the image from Marco and print it on an white inkjet full-page decal... Piece of cake! The trick will be to orient it correctly.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1559-571-2

Great idea!
Thanks.

#962 21 days ago

Has anyone installed their CPR playfield yet?

I'm curious how the new diner cutout looks.

My install is months away, I have a couple more games to restore before I get to mine.

#963 21 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Has anyone installed their CPR playfield yet?
I'm curious how the new diner cutout looks.
My install is months away, I have a couple more games to restore before I get to mine.

I'm with you. I can't wait to see all 10 of these new playfields in action.

#964 21 days ago

Mine is on the rotisserie now. I'll post pics when I finish it up.

IMG_20190724_190437858 (resized).jpg
#965 21 days ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

Mine is on the rotisserie now. I'll post pics when I finish it up.[quoted image]

The white cup looks way cool.
Needs a white plate below it.

Is this 3d printed or a mod?

#966 21 days ago

Thx. I scuffed and painted my original. I will add the decals and spray with auto cc to finish.
No way I could live with the old yellowed one.
And who knows when we will see a repro..

IMG_20190724_190448772 (resized).jpg
#967 20 days ago

White cup looks good but will make nudging to get 2,500,000+ a bear. Usually 2 little nudges timed perfectly is needed.

#968 20 days ago

That's fine with me. I think the cup scores too many points in the game.

#969 20 days ago

Who has much success nudging when in the cup? I never feel like I am affecting anything. What is the best timing? Front to back.

#970 20 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Who has much success nudging when in the cup? I never feel like I am affecting anything. What is the best timing? Front to back.

It has to be timed right. Just a front to back nudge like when you push out of the side lanes and if you are gentle enough you will get the tilt warning but it makes a huge difference. My tilt is set to a normal setting, so I am not nudging much, but I can almost always get the 2.5 mil. or more. I would try it not worrying about tilting to get the timing down.

#971 20 days ago
Quoted from Jjsmooth:

That's fine with me. I think the cup scores too many points in the game.

I see what you mean, but 2.5 mil on that shot compared to 12mil dinetime seems balanced enough for me. And if you don't hit it right and get the nudge in, 1 mil is even a stretch.

#972 20 days ago

First time pin owner here: Trying to figure out a lighting issue. The GI (I guess that’s what you call it) on the right side of playfield is wonky. It flickers while playing—sometimes turning on for a few seconds before flickering generally off. I lifted the playfield and disconnected what appeared to be the wire connector for those lights underneath. Reconnected. Was doing better for a few games but now is back to nearly being off.

Thoughts/advice appreciated.

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#973 20 days ago
Quoted from life_boy:

First time pin owner here: Trying to figure out a lighting issue. The GI (I guess that’s what you call it) on the right side of playfield is wonky. It flickers while playing—sometimes turning on for a few seconds before flickering generally off. I lifted the playfield and disconnected what appeared to be the wire connector for those lights underneath. Reconnected. Was doing better for a few games but now is back to nearly being off.
Thoughts/advice appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image]

Replace the GI connector with a trifurcon type.

Check the pins on the driver board for the GI, they are usually burnt and worn.

Replace them.

New leds use less power and wont burn up the connector again anytime soon on current pinball builds.

#974 19 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Replace the GI connector with a trifurcon type.
Check the pins on the driver board for the GI, they are usually burnt and worn.
Replace them.

Thank you. I’ll order some trifurcon connectors and see if that helps.

I checked all around the aux power driver board and the interconnect board, unplugging/checking connectors. I didn’t see anything burnt or worn. So I guess that’s good....‍♂️

#975 19 days ago
Quoted from life_boy:

Thank you. I’ll order some trifurcon connectors and see if that helps.
I checked all around the aux power driver board and the interconnect board, unplugging/checking connectors. I didn’t see anything burnt or worn. So I guess that’s good....‍♂️

Example of burnt connector from my doctor who:
20190615_101014 (resized).jpg

#976 19 days ago

Yeah, definitely didn't see anything like that all through my machine. I didn't unplug every connection but I did look around the yellow and red wires that seem to be doing the lamps and GI. Could it still be a connector? Do the wires themselves ever wear out or go bad?

#977 19 days ago
Quoted from life_boy:

Yeah, definitely didn't see anything like that all through my machine. I didn't unplug every connection but I did look around the yellow and red wires that seem to be doing the lamps and GI. Could it still be a connector? Do the wires themselves ever wear out or go bad?

Connectors get loose.
Crimped wire connections get loose.

Oxidation causes poor contact.

Spraying small amounts of deoxit on pins and connectors can buy some time.

Loose pins should be reheated.
Loose wires should be recrimped.
Loose connectors should be replaced.

GI connectors should be replaced with trifurcon type.

#978 17 days ago

Here's a scan of the clock as requested earlier in this thread

clock (resized).jpeg
#979 17 days ago
Quoted from Mneubey:

Here's a scan of the clock as requested earlier in this thread[quoted image]

That's beautiful!
Way better than the blurry image I got off of the marco site!

#980 16 days ago

i will make decals for clock in backbox. Because its out of stock everywhere. If somebody need it. Let me know.

#981 16 days ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

i will make decals for clock in backbox. Because its out of stock everywhere. If somebody need it. Let me know.

I'm in!
Make me a couple please..

#982 16 days ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

i will make decals for clock in backbox. Because its out of stock everywhere. If somebody need it. Let me know.

Yes please, count me in too.

#983 16 days ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

i will make decals for clock in backbox. Because its out of stock everywhere. If somebody need it. Let me know.

Yes please, I will have a few thanks.
cheers

#984 15 days ago

0A6EF824-5406-4831-B13A-8078F2C0A337 (resized).jpeg
6AB94C7C-66C9-4EE5-A6B6-9439CDF13393 (resized).jpeg

Decals is ready I have 9 in stock. “Can I take your order”))? Dm please

#985 15 days ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Decals is ready I have 9 in stock. “Can I take your order”))? Dm please

You need a spring for the chef! I could also use a few.

What springs do the characters use?

#986 15 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

You need a spring for the chef! I could also use a few.
What springs do the characters use?

i use this one for characters. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-363

#988 14 days ago

also i will reproduce all metal flaps from stainless steel, who interested in flaps, let me know i can do extra sets for you.

#989 14 days ago

Please can I be put on the list for a clock decal. Thanks

#990 14 days ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

also i will reproduce all metal flaps from stainless steel, who interested in flaps, let me know i can do extra sets for you.

Can you make the flaps from blue or black spring steel?

Regular stainless curls and bends too much and has a short life.

1 week later
#991 6 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Loose connectors should be replaced.
GI connectors should be replaced with trifurcon type.

I meant to post this sooner but I was waiting for parts to arrive. I did retrace the wiring and realized I had been tracing lamp wires rather than GI. I did find burnt molex connectors on the relay board. The pins on the board itself actually seemed to be in fine shape—no visible damage or discoloration.

When the parts did arrive I was suddenly confused by what I was observing. The problem I’m having is this “daisy chain” way that the wiring is looping through the molex. How am I supposed to solve this? I have trifurcon connectors but it looks like these original crimped differently. Should I split off the original wire into the molex? Or did I get the wrong connectors (I have .156” trifurcon crimp terminals)? Any thoughts/advice appreciated.

704E68AF-4E00-4B49-A649-2C6E66B5960B (resized).jpegA3105335-60D0-4D92-98B7-0FABA80C2C03 (resized).jpeg
#992 6 days ago
Quoted from life_boy:

When the parts did arrive I was suddenly confused by what I was observing. The problem I’m having is this “daisy chain” way that the wiring is looping through the molex. How am I supposed to solve this? I have trifurcon connectors but it looks like these original crimped differently. Should I split off the original wire into the molex? Or did I get the wrong connectors (I have .156” trifurcon crimp terminals)? Any thoughts/advice appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image]

Basically what you want to do is create a “Y” out of each wire. I take a piece of wire say 4” long and bend it in half. At the halfway point strip away some insulation. Slide on some heat shrink tube over the original wire, solder it to the new wire (in the middle where you stripped it), then slide heat shrink over joint and heat it up.

Now you have one wire split two wires (the Y), slap on some Trifurcons and insert into now molex housing in the same positions that formed the former loop. Repeat for each wire loop.

#993 6 days ago
Quoted from Completist:

Basically what you want to do is create a “Y” out of each wire. I take a piece of wire say 4” long and bend it in half.

Ok thanks.
I’m assuming this is the same gauge wire as what is already there? The GI wiring is a slightly higher gauge than some of the other lighting wires.

#994 6 days ago
Quoted from life_boy:

I meant to post this sooner but I was waiting for parts to arrive. I did retrace the wiring and realized I had been tracing lamp wires rather than GI. I did find burnt molex connectors on the relay board. The pins on the board itself actually seemed to be in fine shape—no visible damage or discoloration.
When the parts did arrive I was suddenly confused by what I was observing. The problem I’m having is this “daisy chain” way that the wiring is looping through the molex. How am I supposed to solve this? I have trifurcon connectors but it looks like these original crimped differently. Should I split off the original wire into the molex? Or did I get the wrong connectors (I have .156” trifurcon crimp terminals)? Any thoughts/advice appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks like the good ol' J6 plug on the interconnect board.

Here's the trick I use...works like a champ...

Create "solder bridges" on the back side of the circuit board. I've done this to ALL of my system 11 pins. I've never had a failure. DEFINITELY use trifurcon terminals and get rid of that nasty IDC connector.

#995 6 days ago

Solder bridge #1 & #2, #3 & #4, 5 is keyed, I think, then bridge #6 & #7, and #8 & #9....problem solved.

Replace the header pins while you're at it.

#996 6 days ago
Quoted from life_boy:

Ok thanks.
I’m assuming this is the same gauge wire as what is already there? The GI wiring is a slightly higher gauge than some of the other lighting wires.

I think the GI wiring is 18ga. But ya use the same gauge as the original.

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