FYI- I got the pre-order email this morning for CPR playfields. It indicated that Gold is sold out and only Silver and Bronze is left.

I ordered 2 silver, so hopefully they are truly in stock.

What the hell? Did they only make 20 gold playfields? Ridiculous. Sounds like there was way more demand than what was made. Very disappointing. I have been wanting a new playfield for at least 20 years. Really don't want a digital repro and that seems to be their new business model. Will be surprised if I get an email for a silver.

Got my email yesterday too, only silver / bronze left. Got shipping confirm today.

They need a better way on these preorders.

I've never noticed this before, so I figure I would ask..

For a new game, is the clock supposed to start at 12:00 or 1:00?

Should be 1 for 1 million point dinetime.

I haven't heard a single word from CPR.
If you put your name on a pre-order list, no way they should be passing off their defective seconds and thirds to people.
Guess I'll be doing a restoration on mine after all.

Who knows parts number for diner flaps?

Flaps?

yep 3 metal flaps on playfield

Can you be specific? I assume this one but where are the other 2? Or do you mean the ramp flaps. Sorry, been a while since I had it opened up.

20190619_115507 (resized).jpg

Id guess the other two are the ramp flaps at the start of the ramps?

I dont think anyone has a ramp flap kit for diner.

Best cut new ones out of generic stock from pin bits or pinrestore or pinball life maybe.

Rivet them back on.

It can be drilled and cut with scissors.

New ramps come with flaps installed if you go that route.

i am talking about shooter flap and ramps flaps.

Got wood? CPR delievered!!
20190619_191327 (resized).jpg20190619_191253 (resized).jpg

Congrats on getting new pfs for an awesome title! I wanted to clear up a couple things real quick.

First off, I highly recommend you take your pf out of the box and put it somewhere safe to cure. CPR ships them out as soon as they possibly can, and the clear requires 90 days to cure for instillation (by my standards). In many cases the finish will look a little different in a couple months.

i also wanted to answer why people pay to have a new clear put on a new pf. First you have to understand I don't add a couple coats, and its not a matter of thickness. I sand off all of the stock clear to the ink, and I put down 8-10 thin coats over a longer period of time. The process takes 13 weeks because of curing in between coats. The biggest reason for this is after several hundred games my surface will show little to no wear and ball dimples.

The other big difference is though a stock finish is nice, it is no comparison to a finish that is block sanded flat up to 3000 wet grit, then high speed polished for an average of 6 hours. The stock sprayed finish is nice, but the material itsself has limitations even with the best spray man. The finish I work for has no spray texture or orange peal. when you watch the reflection, it is undistorted, and very sharp.

Its just a matter of a production paint job, like on a new car, (very nice and more than good enough for most of the buyers) and a custom job on a restored car. I don't have a comparison for the strength and longevity of the finish, but that is in there also. This is why most of my work is on games that are being restored, and not brand new games, though that is getting to be more and more lately. Like a car, again, when you do a restoration, it is something you built to your standards or dreams, rather than something you bought off the lot, and is the makers standards. Most folks hold games high in their heart that they restored, and often the best part of them is how you can see the difference both in appearance and function.

I may as well hawk my wears while I am at it. If you are going to install your pf and you are worried about drilling in to the clear coat, which is not made to be drilled, I have a install kit that I sell for 85$ shipped in the us. The concept is to remove an area of clear just big enough so you can pre drill without drilling thru clear. I also include a glue kit if your drill bit lifts a small part of the clear off the pf surface (which will happen often to one extent or another). After you remove the clear, and do your predrill, you can drip a drop of this glue down the inside edge of the hole in the clear. the glue will immediately wick in to the wood and spread around the hole from underneath, locking down the clear all around the hole. The kit is totally worth it if you just use it to remove the clear from the pop bumper lug holes that the screw/nail should be set flush to the surface. They are full of clear which causes the nail to either sit on top of the clear, or the fin on the nail/screw cracks the clear. It fixes the ghosting if you have it, and if you just want to make it super safe for the future, it will be. The kit includes 10 dremmil bits, a sizer tool, a stone to clean the bits, glue and 6 applicators. There are several mentions of it on threads where people install pfs that I have not cleared you can search and read. Its made for any pf that has clearcoat

I am looking forward to seeing some newly restored diners at the next show!!!

anybody have translite for sale?

Does anyone have (or has had) interior mirror blades or art on the inside of their Diner?

If so, is it worth it?

I have a spare translite.
PM me, maybe we can do a trade.

I have a back glass on mine, but the resolution is not the best. Also I do not have the numbers on the clock. Does anyone know qho did repros like this?

15611400085997453544496581615068 (resized).jpg

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Looks like a CPR that was sold cheaply as wall art due to being unfinished or errors and missing the mirror coat.

I have the CPR glass and the numbers are in mirror form.

Someone was probably going to make a clock out of it but put it in a game instead.

I imagine you could put some clock number stickers on it to fix it, or just get the new one.

this not a cpr repro. all cpr glasses were made by silk-screening each color 1 at a time, and the mirroring is always the first color. there is no way this is a cpr glass

Maybe a test sample sold at a show for wall art. Just to check the silk screens or test colors.
I think I saw something like these for $69 back aways...

Yeah, It's not real nice. A translight might be better.

Finally!

IMG_20190621_163149_01 (resized).jpg

Oohh nice! Which grade did you get?

I have them on my Rollergames, and installed them 2 years ago - at the time, the holes weren't located just right for a Sys 11 game (didn't offer earlier than WPC) but they may be making them now. I had to do a little tweaking to get the blades lined up just right. Otherwise they are relatively easy to install, and the quality is high. (I'm baffled as to why the various side art packages are mere decals rather than printed onto plastic blades - they seem not long for this world!) I run felt along the playfield edges to protect the blades during maintenance.

TBH, it wasn't as dazzling as I'd hoped! They're cool and all, and if you find a good deal on them at a show or something and want to bling things up, sure. But I've got 4 games now and really haven't felt possessed to add blades to the others in the lineup.

Anyone try the swap yet with the new CPR playfield? (Or are we all waiting for them to cure?) This would be my first attempt at a swap if I decide to do it myself (and I may not have a choice based on the price I was quoted by a local tech).

Any thoughts on whether this title is reasonably doable for a first-time swapper?

Silver. Golds were sold out.
There are no issues that will be seen once populated

Vid's Guide to re-populating the playfield will keep you from making 1st timer mistakes, very clear information. Also MOF's guide to his High Speed playfield swap here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-restoration

It's not for the fainthearted though. You'll want to replace a lot of parts while you're at it (rebuild your pop bumpers for sure), and you may need to buy a number of tools. If you're the kind of person who can focus on a project and be very cautious and not get frustrated, read these guides and take your time. If you're not a patient sort, you may want to hire it out or work on it with a friend.

Spot on, I do mine very similar to you, cure times are very important, on modern cars the paint is only a few microns thick, and the clear is not much thicker, old vintage cars I usually lay 4-5 coats of base, and 4 coats clear, the result on a properly cleared, cut and buffed PF not only gives a high gloss mirror like surface that protects the artwork, it also makes a very fast playing machine. You sir are an asset to the community, thank you

How much margin of error do you have when removing something like a CPR clear before the ink is gone? Sounds pretty high on the pucker factor.

This could help you decide whether to take this on:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-swap-guide

Missed out on the CPR Diner pre-order, checked the site yesterday and there was one bronze left - so I went for it!

Anyone else picked up a bronze and taken delivery? What are your thoughts?

I noticed the other day that there were a couple bronze playfields left - i kinda agonized over it for a day, saw one sold, so hopped on it really quick. Since they were being clearanced, seemed like a no brainer. I'm also curious to see what they look like.

Wtf? I was on the preorder list and didn't even get a notification to buy a bronze! So frustrating!

Maybe CPR had poor yields. It is a shame.

Sounds like they should have made quite a few more. When they're all tooled up, that's obviously the best time. I wonder how they so badly missed the mark for how many to make.

With only a couple thousand diners made, 150 to 200 playfields would be a lot maybe?

Diner has become a rare collectible these days.

I imagine with the new business model, more short runs might be in the works.

I missed out on a playboy playfield. I would like to get in on another short run of those.

I was on the standby list for a playfield, but never received any notifications about it after the confirmation email. As with SewerUrchin, I would have appreciated at least an offer to buy a bronze.

They say they are moving to a digital model to make small orders. They also state the colors wont match like a silkscreen. I'm really not interested in a digital repro.

Something definitely is off. If only a few of us here got one, who the hell got the rest?

Yeah, agreed,

Now they are trying to sell the BG that failed as wallart for half price, but you can't make a lightbox out of them either because they blacked them out! , Gl with that

I’ve been in the Diner club for about 2 weeks now. My first pin—I wasn’t looking for it in particular but it was the right price and right location. Finding something within reasonable driving distance of me has been a huge challenge. I knew I couldn’t go wrong with Williams system 11 and so far so good. Thankfully, my family has connected immediately too. Ironically, I have yet to beat the score on my very first game when we got it set up. 6.7mil.

I have my first orders from Marco and Pinball Life in the mail so that I can rebuild flippers and also (hopefully) solve my issue with the lift ramp not opening up. I can hear it trying to lift but it isn’t catching or something.

image (resized).jpg

This is a great family game. Congratulations!

My Diner is in the basement and I'm thinking of applying new side art. I do not have the ability to take it outside or work in the garage

Best way to prep for the new art...Sanding? Paint remover?

Sand it with a dustless system:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-Amp-Corded-6-in-Variable-Speed-Dual-Random-Orbital-Sander-with-AIRGUARD-Technology-R26111/100523155

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-3-Amp-Corded-5-in-Random-Orbital-Sander-with-AIRGUARD-Technology-R26011/100053683

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-JobPlus-Base-with-Multi-Tool-Attachment-Tool-Only-P340/202868525?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25T%7C25-9_PORTABLE+POWER%7CNA%7CLIA|71700000044155732|58700004615424082|92700045026638631&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjrvpBRC0ARIsAFrFuV_yW0Dd9guFODDNVFb0i-k0EhLCebq9un4gMz9tG5bauck28qWW1lMaAugWEALw_wcB

https://www.lowes.com/pd/shop-vac-8-ft-x-1-25-in-shop-vacuum-hose/1115373?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-tol-_-google-_-lia-_-129-_-wetdryvac-_-1115373-_-0&kpid&store_code=321&k_clickID=go_1736136440_67467311269_338420143110_pla-384467821188_m_9030872&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjrvpBRC0ARIsAFrFuV9MlA1WUa5HOIikWWTs4mLUhXR2AA0r7tRzGfhXldZUNiXITZT4bTcaAhHFEALw_wcB

Works for me.
Almost no dust.
Put a good filter on the shop vac.

I ordered a new clock wheel from marco:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8161

Part number looks correct.

Mine is very loose and crooked fitting. Plus a big chunk is missing from the arbor.

I drilled an tapped higher up as a fix but its awfully crispy plastic now.

It works good for now, but will probably crack off again.

Does anyone have a NOS or repro clock hand decal?

I can scan and make one but maybe one from vinyl would be more durable.

Sand down to bare wood or just enough to make smooth?

Paint the cab black with what kind of paint? (Oil/latex, flat/glossy?)

Also, is it possible to do all the outside artwork without having to remove the playfield or backbox pcb’s?