Heh, glad you found it!

so ive located the original coffee cup mold. trying to get it in my shop for repairs. might take some time but at least its not scrap.
working with PPS to get it moving.

Wow, that's pretty cool. If you are able to document that somehow whether in this thread or in another (please post a link here) I'd love to see that whole process.

Any pictures?

Question:

Any of you guys with early version/sample game (DP playfield, yellow wireform) have a center post on their game?

I swear mine looks original... What's the story.

I’m working with rick to try and make this happen. We did this same thing last year with the transporter the rescue ramp tooling and it worked out good. It may take some time but I’ve located the original mold in Chicago. I’m looking for a few other lost molds too. I can ask about he black rose cannon parts. I know I saw the disc mold.
The coffee cup mold looked canabalized but the guts (core and cavity) looked intact.

I had posted the process of finding the transporter ramp molds and getting them rebuilt to final parts. Transporter the rescue club thread.
I have a pic of the coffee cup mold I can post.

There is is, it exists! Pps Owns this tooling. I would just be the guy bringing it back to life. Any sales would take place through pps not me.
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Directly from the moon.

I have modeled the clock disc, as mine is cracked by the set screw. I was going to see if my Morgan Press could make them at some point.

If anyone is interested I've made a batch of hotdog switch covers and well sell them for $20 set(2). Free delivery at TPF.
DinerHotdog (resized).JPG

Looking for the "Chef" plastic piece on a spring that goes in the back box.

For some reason it was replaced with Buck, so I have two of those!??

Chef (resized).JPG

You may know this already but.. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1578-571

Yes, thanks for the link. I was hoping someone would have a spare, as I don't need the entire set. But, I'll probably end up getting the set. So, if anyone needs any of the other characters, let me know.

I’ve got a few emails bouncing back and forth about the cup tooling, hope I can get that moving this way. Will keep you all updated.

I needed the right ramp and got it from Starship Fantasy. It’s been great on location for over 2 years now.

So I’m playing Diner today and notice that the “A” in “EAT” on the back playfield is not lit.

I took the glass off and started a game.
Rolling the ball through “E” and “T” light up. Rolling it through “A” makes a sound so it would appear that the switch that the ball rolls over works.

I took another light socket holder from another location and it will also not light.

The silver (solder?) around the pcb light hole opening looks worn.

Would I be correct in saying that aside from the light not working the “switch” the ball goes over is working?

Looks like the manual says it's just a 3 lamp pcb (part #5768-12245-00), but seems to be discontinued.
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=5768-12245-00

Anyone know who sells them or alternatively maybe a hacked way to get the light working?

Thanks
lamp (resized).jpg

Update:

I removed the pcb from the playfield and disconnected the molex head. I reconnected the molex connection and only 1 light would work.

I wiggled the molex connection and all 3 work

Go figure...

Bad solder joints. Reflow the header connector on the PWB.

I second this advice. Same issue with my Doctor Who light board. Reflowing the solder on all the pins took care of it.

Any very nice used or NOS Diner translights out there? With the CPR backglasses, there must be a few good used translights to be had. PM me condition and price. Thx
Update...decided this is not worth messing with. Ordered CPR backglass.

Took at look at the flipper EOS leaf switches and the right side looks badly worn.

I shall replace both.

Can anyone recommend a good place to get them?

Didn’t I read somewhere that it is best to replace these with high voltage EOS?

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I’ve got a real loose ramp support post (ignore the picture where it’s come off. It’s very loose when on)

Can anyone tell me what the correct metal post should be based on the manual?

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hardware (resized).jpg

Those are the cabinet switches - the EOS switches are part of the flippers assembly underneath the playfield. Cabinet switches sometimes need to be replaced
(these are now 29 years old, after all), but EOS switches burn out much sooner.

Check out Vid's Guide to Rebuilding Flippers on Pinside for the comprehensive tutorial on how to do it right.

I am gonna guess one of the 02-4036 bumper posts with 02-4277-30 spacer post on top of it. See if the spacer post you have is 1 7/8" spacer length.

I ordered 2 replacement switches.
I did notice that mine has capacitors installed.

I've seen switches for sale with capacitors already installed, but they weren't for Diner.

I take it they are needed if they are installed. Would I be able to re-use the existing ones or suggest getting new ones?

Any harm if they are left off?
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This is the capacitor you want. It's a mystery to me why Marco doesn't put a link to this part in your face when you add the switch to your cart (unless they've gotten wise since last time I ordered a cab switch). If you have more than one sys 11 game, buy a bunch to have on hand. You may be able to get them cheaper at GPE, but if you're already shopping through Marco...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C.1M500VR

I've never seen cab switches with the capacitor on already, that would be kinda nice.
You can re-use them, but there's not much sense in it. They are 30 years old and, like everything else, were intended to last 3 years. So, they owe you nothing. I was playing my PinBot one day when the flipper started sticking in the up position even after releasing the button. I quickly turned the game off and smelled a sick, hot electrical smell...but this wasn't coming form the back box. Turned out the cabinet switch capacitor had burned up. I had some on hand so was able to replace it quickly, so in my case anyway the switches outlived the capacitors. But it's a pretty good part to replace; if they're originals and you're doing a flipper rebuild (like every wise pin owner does, unless they are *certain* it was done within recent memory, and done correctly) it's a good time to put in fresh contacts everywhere.

Any very nice used or NOS Diner translights out there? With the CPR backglasses, there must be a few good used translights to be had. PM me condition and price. Thx
Update...decided this is not worth messing with. Ordered CPR backglass.</blockquote

Don’t pinball centre do new translites? Sure I’ve seen them there.

Your right, looks like they do. I used to buy a few items from them, until the shipping got complicated. There is threads about somebody that re-ships the stuff and gets the price down on the shipping somewhat. Just seems like a PETA to me, so I avoid it. Too bad too, because I was always happy with Pinball Centres' products and service.

Thanks for the link

So I’ve removed the lamp board.

Which side should I reflow?

The long pin side or the short pin side?

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Long pin side.

Much obliged.

Reflowed and appears stable where it was very flaky before.

Really want to join this club!

I have a wanted ad posted

Projects ok.

PM me.

Where are you on this project? I'd really like 2 new cups.

Anyone know if these playfield light boards are readily available?

I couldn’t find them on Marcos site.

Thanks

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Nope, Nobody has ever had them as new replacements. Now and then you'll find some on ebay from someone parting a game.
Usually you just replace it with a 44 socket/bulb.

PM sent

Someone sell me a diner ! Lol
Gotta have it!

PM sent!

Yay!

That was easy!

Anyone interested in a new repo cup with decals? $112 shipped.

PM sent

Are the new ones from Rick's original molds available now?

I wish- I need two...

I think the real ones are coming pretty soon.

The molds are in good condition and can be made whole.

There was 2 people talking about doing these 45+ days ago, then nothing......