Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?

(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?


By Pinballgeek

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 782 posts
  • 125 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Cmjb13
  • Topic is favorited by 51 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 176 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

pasted_image (resized).png
hardware (resized).jpg
C047553B-7022-4C65-8F4E-E419F2DE830C (resized).jpeg
07E7EDB7-0F69-43FB-A456-8722AD0BC229 (resized).jpeg
DC186495-30D2-4E40-B030-2F743D96BC5C (resized).jpeg
lamp (resized).jpg
Chef (resized).JPG
DinerHotdog (resized).JPG
A08A7DC8-D644-465E-A12D-290A35D97494 (resized).jpeg
CA16A808-F587-4F03-9B29-E5648622FF7B (resized).jpeg
DSCF6804 (resized).JPG
DSCF6819 (resized).JPG
IMG_8349 (resized).jpg
IMG_8347 (resized).jpg
IMG_8351 (resized).jpg
IMG_8353 (resized).jpg

There are 782 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 16.
#751 39 days ago
Quoted from dozer1:

tstone , think I found my deflector shield for the cash register. Looking through my teardown pics I see this. Also saw it laying on my parts table and new it looked like the part, but knew it wasn't on the cash register. Looks like an old shop out fail.

Heh, glad you found it!

1 week later
#752 26 days ago

so ive located the original coffee cup mold. trying to get it in my shop for repairs. might take some time but at least its not scrap.
working with PPS to get it moving.

#753 26 days ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

so ive located the original coffee cup mold. trying to get it in my shop for repairs. might take some time but at least its not scrap.
working with PPS to get it moving.

Wow, that's pretty cool. If you are able to document that somehow whether in this thread or in another (please post a link here) I'd love to see that whole process.

#754 26 days ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

so ive located the original coffee cup mold. trying to get it in my shop for repairs. might take some time but at least its not scrap.
working with PPS to get it moving.

Any pictures?

#755 26 days ago

Question:

Any of you guys with early version/sample game (DP playfield, yellow wireform) have a center post on their game?

I swear mine looks original... What's the story.

#756 26 days ago

I’m working with rick to try and make this happen. We did this same thing last year with the transporter the rescue ramp tooling and it worked out good. It may take some time but I’ve located the original mold in Chicago. I’m looking for a few other lost molds too. I can ask about he black rose cannon parts. I know I saw the disc mold.
The coffee cup mold looked canabalized but the guts (core and cavity) looked intact.

#757 26 days ago

I had posted the process of finding the transporter ramp molds and getting them rebuilt to final parts. Transporter the rescue club thread.
I have a pic of the coffee cup mold I can post.

#758 26 days ago

There is is, it exists! Pps Owns this tooling. I would just be the guy bringing it back to life. Any sales would take place through pps not me.
A08A7DC8-D644-465E-A12D-290A35D97494 (resized).jpegCA16A808-F587-4F03-9B29-E5648622FF7B (resized).jpeg

#759 26 days ago

Directly from the moon.

#760 26 days ago

I have modeled the clock disc, as mine is cracked by the set screw. I was going to see if my Morgan Press could make them at some point.

#761 25 days ago
Quoted from pin-pimp:

so ive located the original coffee cup mold. trying to get it in my shop for repairs. might take some time but at least its not scrap.
working with PPS to get it moving.

I would be very interested in purchasing 2 of these.
cheers

#762 25 days ago

If anyone is interested I've made a batch of hotdog switch covers and well sell them for $20 set(2). Free delivery at TPF.
DinerHotdog (resized).JPG

#763 25 days ago

Looking for the "Chef" plastic piece on a spring that goes in the back box.

For some reason it was replaced with Buck, so I have two of those!??

Chef (resized).JPG

#764 25 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Looking for the "Chef" plastic piece

You may know this already but.. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1578-571

#765 24 days ago

Hi everyone,
I am wanting to purchase all new ramps for my diner, any info on what company makes the best ramps?
cheers
Trevor

#766 24 days ago

Yes, thanks for the link. I was hoping someone would have a spare, as I don't need the entire set. But, I'll probably end up getting the set. So, if anyone needs any of the other characters, let me know.

#767 19 days ago

I’ve got a few emails bouncing back and forth about the cup tooling, hope I can get that moving this way. Will keep you all updated.

#768 19 days ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

Hi everyone,
I am wanting to purchase all new ramps for my diner, any info on what company makes the best ramps?
cheers
Trevor

I needed the right ramp and got it from Starship Fantasy. It’s been great on location for over 2 years now.

#769 17 days ago

So I’m playing Diner today and notice that the “A” in “EAT” on the back playfield is not lit.

I took the glass off and started a game.
Rolling the ball through “E” and “T” light up. Rolling it through “A” makes a sound so it would appear that the switch that the ball rolls over works.

I took another light socket holder from another location and it will also not light.

The silver (solder?) around the pcb light hole opening looks worn.

Would I be correct in saying that aside from the light not working the “switch” the ball goes over is working?

Looks like the manual says it's just a 3 lamp pcb (part #5768-12245-00), but seems to be discontinued.
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=5768-12245-00

Anyone know who sells them or alternatively maybe a hacked way to get the light working?

Thanks
lamp (resized).jpg

#770 17 days ago

Update:

I removed the pcb from the playfield and disconnected the molex head. I reconnected the molex connection and only 1 light would work.

I wiggled the molex connection and all 3 work

Go figure...

#771 17 days ago

Bad solder joints. Reflow the header connector on the PWB.

#772 14 days ago
Quoted from sawbill:

Bad solder joints. Reflow the header connector on the PWB.

I second this advice. Same issue with my Doctor Who light board. Reflowing the solder on all the pins took care of it.

#773 14 days ago

Any very nice used or NOS Diner translights out there? With the CPR backglasses, there must be a few good used translights to be had. PM me condition and price. Thx
Update...decided this is not worth messing with. Ordered CPR backglass.

1 week later
#774 5 days ago

Took at look at the flipper EOS leaf switches and the right side looks badly worn.

I shall replace both.

Can anyone recommend a good place to get them?

Didn’t I read somewhere that it is best to replace these with high voltage EOS?

07E7EDB7-0F69-43FB-A456-8722AD0BC229 (resized).jpegDC186495-30D2-4E40-B030-2F743D96BC5C (resized).jpeg

#775 5 days ago

I’ve got a real loose ramp support post (ignore the picture where it’s come off. It’s very loose when on)

Can anyone tell me what the correct metal post should be based on the manual?

C047553B-7022-4C65-8F4E-E419F2DE830C (resized).jpeg

hardware (resized).jpg
#776 5 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Took at look at the flipper EOS leaf switches and the right side looks badly worn.
I shall replace both.
Can anyone recommend a good place to get them?
Didn’t I read somewhere that it is best to replace these with high voltage EOS?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those are the cabinet switches - the EOS switches are part of the flippers assembly underneath the playfield. Cabinet switches sometimes need to be replaced
(these are now 29 years old, after all), but EOS switches burn out much sooner.

Check out Vid's Guide to Rebuilding Flippers on Pinside for the comprehensive tutorial on how to do it right.

#777 5 days ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Can anyone tell me what the correct metal post should be based on the manual?

I am gonna guess one of the 02-4036 bumper posts with 02-4277-30 spacer post on top of it. See if the spacer post you have is 1 7/8" spacer length.

#778 4 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Those are the cabinet switches - the EOS switches are part of the flippers assembly underneath the playfield. Cabinet switches sometimes need to be replaced
(these are now 29 years old, after all), but EOS switches burn out much sooner.
Check out Vid's Guide to Rebuilding Flippers on Pinside for the comprehensive tutorial on how to do it right.

I ordered 2 replacement switches.
I did notice that mine has capacitors installed.

I've seen switches for sale with capacitors already installed, but they weren't for Diner.

I take it they are needed if they are installed. Would I be able to re-use the existing ones or suggest getting new ones?

Any harm if they are left off?
pasted_image (resized).png

#779 4 days ago

This is the capacitor you want. It's a mystery to me why Marco doesn't put a link to this part in your face when you add the switch to your cart (unless they've gotten wise since last time I ordered a cab switch). If you have more than one sys 11 game, buy a bunch to have on hand. You may be able to get them cheaper at GPE, but if you're already shopping through Marco...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C.1M500VR

Quoted from Cmjb13:

I've seen switches for sale with capacitors already installed, but they weren't for Diner.
I take it they are needed if they are installed. Would I be able to re-use the existing ones or suggest getting new ones?
Any harm if they are left off?

I've never seen cab switches with the capacitor on already, that would be kinda nice.
You can re-use them, but there's not much sense in it. They are 30 years old and, like everything else, were intended to last 3 years. So, they owe you nothing. I was playing my PinBot one day when the flipper started sticking in the up position even after releasing the button. I quickly turned the game off and smelled a sick, hot electrical smell...but this wasn't coming form the back box. Turned out the cabinet switch capacitor had burned up. I had some on hand so was able to replace it quickly, so in my case anyway the switches outlived the capacitors. But it's a pretty good part to replace; if they're originals and you're doing a flipper rebuild (like every wise pin owner does, unless they are *certain* it was done within recent memory, and done correctly) it's a good time to put in fresh contacts everywhere.

#780 3 days ago

Any very nice used or NOS Diner translights out there? With the CPR backglasses, there must be a few good used translights to be had. PM me condition and price. Thx
Update...decided this is not worth messing with. Ordered CPR backglass.</blockquote

Don’t pinball centre do new translites? Sure I’ve seen them there.

#781 3 days ago

Your right, looks like they do. I used to buy a few items from them, until the shipping got complicated. There is threads about somebody that re-ships the stuff and gets the price down on the shipping somewhat. Just seems like a PETA to me, so I avoid it. Too bad too, because I was always happy with Pinball Centres' products and service.

#782 3 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

This is the capacitor you want. It's a mystery to me why Marco doesn't put a link to this part in your face when you add the switch to your cart (unless they've gotten wise since last time I ordered a cab switch). If you have more than one sys 11 game, buy a bunch to have on hand. You may be able to get them cheaper at GPE, but if you're already shopping through Marco...
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C.1M500VR

Thanks for the link

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 27.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 18.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Woodcliff Lake, NJ
$ 92.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 20.00
Electronics
Yorktown Parts and Equip
$ 21.00
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Oceanside, CA
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
There are 782 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 16.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside