(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?


By Pinballgeek

6 years ago



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  • 1,140 posts
  • 157 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Sonic
  • Topic is favorited by 60 Pinsiders

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There are 1140 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 23.
#701 1 year ago

replaced LED's with incandescents? if so, then yes.

#702 1 year ago
Quoted from weaverj:

replaced LED's with incandescents? if so, then yes.

No, just removed the broken LED's and did not replace them with anything until I can get the replacements in. So right now, the backbox only has about 1/2 the LED lamps installed.

I did notice that the ground wire from the speaker to the bottom of the back box was not firmly screwed in with the wing-nut. I tightened it and it made no difference.

When I was working on the game originally, I turned the volume off since I didn't want to deal with sounds for a long period of time. When I went back a few hours later, I still had the volume off, but that's when I heard the buzz. I'd be curious if I can hear it with the volume at a normal level.

Maybe I'll try reseating the cables and the sound board screws (none are missing that I can see)

#703 1 year ago

A follow up..,

No difference
-Tried another outlet
-Pull connectors and reattach
-Tightened screws

Made sound louder
-Removed screws from soundboard

#704 1 year ago

I was replacing the star posts and a couple of the "claw holders" broke that allow the screws to go into them.

Is there a specific term for these?

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#705 1 year ago

Anyone know what the best way is to access the target decals so I can replace them?

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#706 1 year ago

I'm trying to remove the cup and saucer. I understand there is a 90 degree L bracket behind the playfield that keeps this in place.

I tried lifing the entire playfield straight up and lifting it up off the hinges so I could access it, but was not successful.

Can anyone recommend the easiest way to do this?

Thanks.

#707 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Anyone know what the best way is to access the target decals so I can replace them?
[quoted image]

T nuts are what is on the bottom. Posts svrew into them and sometimes they use loc tite and they break.

#708 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I'm trying to remove the cup and saucer. I understand there is a 90 degree L bracket behind the playfield that keeps this in place.
I tried lifing the entire playfield straight up and lifting it up off the hinges so I could access it, but was not successful.
Can anyone recommend the easiest way to do this?
Thanks.

I would disconnect the wires in the back box and remove the playfield, personally.

#709 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I would disconnect the wires in the back box and remove the playfield, personally.

Got it. Thanks

#710 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I'm trying to remove the cup and saucer. I understand there is a 90 degree L bracket behind the playfield that keeps this in place.
I tried lifing the entire playfield straight up and lifting it up off the hinges so I could access it, but was not successful.
Can anyone recommend the easiest way to do this?
Thanks.

Definitely don't need to remove the playfield or really any connectors. From earlier in the thread. Doing this I could get plenty of space to remove the cup and the whole back panel.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diner-clubowners-and-previous-owners-welcome/page/12#post-4348412

#711 1 year ago

I’m in the process of replacing the LED’s

Are the black slots on the back box to be filled with 13V flasher LED’s?

Also, the top row on the pcb on the back box (that lights the customers) only takes 13v?

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#712 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I’m in the process of replacing the LED’s
Are the black slots on the back box to be filled with 13V flasher LED’s?
Also, the top row on the pcb on the back box (that lights the customers) only takes 13v?

The top 3 are flashers, the bottom 3 are GI (555's).

#713 1 year ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

The top 3 are flashers, the bottom 3 are GI (555's).

Appreciate the info, thanks

#714 1 year ago

I’m in the process of reassembling pieces around the cup.

I should have taken a picture beforehand, but did not. Is the bracket orientation correct in this photo? I do not recall it’s purpose.

Thanks

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#715 1 year ago

Hard to tell what that bracket is, but I do not have one there.

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#716 1 year ago

Can anyone tell me the length or type of screw used here?

I believe it got stripped off and when I attach the ramp to it, it’s loose.

Thanks

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#717 1 year ago

The ice cream floats on the sides of the flippers have 3 screws/post studs.

Can anyone tell me which one goes in each hole?

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#718 1 year ago

Anyone here have a really good pic of the area between the lower flippers? im helping a friend to repaint some of the black figures (a dog and some women i think it was) due to being worn away abit and kinda need a pic that shows the white lines in the black figure areas.

#719 1 year ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Anyone here have a really good pic of the area between the lower flippers? im helping a friend to repaint some of the black figures (a dog and some women i think it was) due to being worn away abit and kinda need a pic that shows the white lines in the black figure areas.

I can try to get something for you later tonight if you don't get one sooner.

#720 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I can try to get something for you later tonight if you don't get one sooner.

Thanks, i wont meet up with him until after christmas so you have lots of time.

#721 1 year ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Anyone here have a really good pic of the area between the lower flippers? im helping a friend to repaint some of the black figures (a dog and some women i think it was) due to being worn away abit and kinda need a pic that shows the white lines in the black figure areas.

Sorry, glass is still on. Do you need better?

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#722 1 year ago

I noticed one of the flipper buttons had an E clip and one did not.

I replaced the buttons from blue to red and am having a problem trying to reinstall the E clip.

Are they needed?

#723 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Are they needed?

Depends on the buttons.

To the best of my knowledge:
The original buttons use a spring (on the outside of the cabinet) and have the e-clip.
Remakes have no spring, and have a plastic lip, with no groove to put an e-clip on, and have no use for them.
-mof

#724 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Sorry, glass is still on. Do you need better?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those are good enough, but i need one of the dog below aswell, if you could. Very much thanks anyway for your work.

#725 1 year ago
Quoted from Luzur:

Those are good enough, but i need one of the dog below aswell, if you could. Very much thanks anyway for your work.

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#726 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

I was replacing the star posts and a couple of the "claw holders" broke that allow the screws to go into them.
Is there a specific term for these?[quoted image][quoted image]

Those are called t-nuts. It is common for these to break during removal on System 11 games like Diner because they were threadlocked (like a blue glue) into place during manufacture to prevent them coming loose during play. I hate that this was done and always have a few break on me. Gottlieb Sys 3 games have this issue too.

Relatively easy to replace if you have them on hand.

https://www.pinballlife.com/6-32-tee-nuts.html

The common sizes are 6-32, 8-32, 10-32

RussM

#727 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Anyone know what the best way is to access the target decals so I can replace them?
[quoted image]

You can either:

1. Raise the drop target into the Up position and jam a piece of folded cardboard under the reset plate to hold it up while you install new decals from the top side

2. Disconnect the connectors (2 I think, one to power the reset coil and one for the switches) and unscrew the bracket and pull the whole assembly out.

RussM

#728 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

[quoted image]

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#729 1 year ago
Quoted from mof:

Depends on the buttons.
To the best of my knowledge:
The original buttons use a spring (on the outside of the cabinet) and have the e-clip.
Remakes have no spring, and have a plastic lip, with no groove to put an e-clip on, and have no use for them.
-mof

Here’s a pic. Seems that this has the plastic lip.

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#730 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

The ice cream floats on the sides of the flippers have 3 screws/post studs.
Can anyone tell me which one goes in each hole?
[quoted image]

What exactly are you needing? I thought pics, but it is already installed in your pic. I might be able to help.

#731 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

What exactly are you needing? I thought pics, but it is already installed in your pic. I might be able to help.

I was able to get the right pieces from the pile I had. Next time, I’ll be sure I label everything to make it easier to assemble.

2 weeks later
#732 1 year ago

Had a chance to work on getting a Pinduino to work in a Diner this weekend controlling addressable LEDs in the cup. Let me know your thoughts. Order up!

Source code available: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/Diner-Cup

#733 1 year ago

The lighting sequence looks quite nice. Is the Pinduino sensing game activity in any way? I watched the video and it seemed like the behaviour changed initially then I could not tell after that.

#734 1 year ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

The lighting sequence looks quite nice. Is the Pinduino sensing game activity in any way? I watched the video and it seemed like the behaviour changed initially then I could not tell after that.

Thanks! Yes -- the pinduino senses game activity using P11 and P12 on the driver board. The core pinduino library and all the code I write is open source and available, and the controller for the pinduino is an Arduino nano. You can take a look at my code (if you like to read code) to see that it is programmed to sense things like the cup flashers and dine-time flasher for triggering various lighting effects.

1 week later
#735 1 year ago

Just a heads up, I'm probably going to try and do a Diner coffee cup repro sometime in the near future. Gauging interest in this thread - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diner-coffee-cup-group-buy

#736 1 year ago

Does anyone know if the playfield glass that came from the factory was tempered glass?

Thanks

#737 1 year ago
Quoted from Cmjb13:

Does anyone know if the playfield glass that came from the factory was tempered glass?
Thanks

Most definitely.

1 week later
#738 1 year ago

Table for one, please.

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#739 1 year ago

Hello fellow Diner owners. I've been doing a lot of 3D design and printing at my local library. After having some luck designing dalek pinball posts for Dr. Who I wanted to freshen up my Diner. The existing plastic switch covers for the ramps are big and boring. I hope y'all like these updated ones. Feel free to download the file and print your own.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3391247

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#740 1 year ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Hello fellow Diner owners. I've been doing a lot of 3D design and printing at my local library. After having some luck designing dalek pinball posts for Dr. Who I wanted to freshen up my Diner. The existing plastic switch covers for the ramps are big and boring. I hope y'all like these updated ones.

Very creative!!

#742 1 year ago

New member request. Is there supposed to be a deflector shield mounted in back of the cash register? If so, mine is missing. Could someone take a pic of it? Just recently picked this up and have it all apart now for a good shop out.

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#743 1 year ago
Quoted from dozer1:

New member request. Is there supposed to be a deflector shield mounted in back of the cash register? If so, mine is missing. Could someone take a pic of it? Just recently picked this up and have it all apart now for a good shop out.
[quoted image]

Here are some pics of mine.

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#744 1 year ago

Thanks tstone !, I'll be able to fab that up no problem off your pics. Won't be chrome, but shoot it the right red or something and it will look great.

#745 1 year ago

tstone , think I found my deflector shield for the cash register. Looking through my teardown pics I see this. Also saw it laying on my parts table and new it looked like the part, but knew it wasn't on the cash register. Looks like an old shop out fail.

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#746 1 year ago

My Diner does not have that part at all. I have yet to have a ball land up there though.

#747 1 year ago

That deflector fail is hilarious.

#748 1 year ago
Quoted from SewerUrchin:

That deflector fail is hilarious.

That's gold!

#749 1 year ago

Anybody have some good custom apron cards for Diner?

#750 1 year ago
Quoted from dozer1:

Anybody have some good custom apron cards for Diner?

There's one on the 1st page of this thread

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