(Topic ID: 50275)

Diner Owners Club...Can I Take Your Order ?


By Pinballgeek

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,150 posts
  • 160 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by sawbill
  • Topic is favorited by 60 Pinsiders

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There are 1150 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 23.
#601 1 year ago

Long shot I know- but does anyone happen to have a non- yellowed coffee cup plastic be it gently used or Repro?

#602 1 year ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

Long shot I know- but does anyone happen to have a non- yellowed coffee cup plastic be it gently used or Repro?

It depends what you mean by non-yellow. I have one, I replaced it by anew one. It's not bad, non-broken. Honestly, not sure it was worth the money. It's up for sale.

Do you have a picture of yours to compare?

Here's mine. Looks like a big difference but once in the game it's barely noticeable.

I should have flame polished my new cup before installing btw...

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#603 1 year ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

I should have flame polished my new cup before installing btw...

Where on earth did you even find a new cup??

#604 1 year ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Where on earth did you even find a new cup??

PPS about 3 years ago. I think it was hidden somewhere.

#605 1 year ago

Are these cups unobtanium at this point?

#606 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Are these cups unobtanium at this point?

Yes, and they have been for quite a while.

I myself passed on them back when they were available...I like the existing one just fine, and a little yellowing I think adds to the greasy Diner theme.

#607 1 year ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

It depends what you mean by non-yellow. I have one, I replaced it by anew one. It's not bad, non-broken. Honestly, not sure it was worth the money. It's up for sale.
Do you have a picture of yours to compare?
Here's mine. Looks like a big difference but once in the game it's barely noticeable.
I should have flame polished my new cup before installing btw...

Mine is prolly as yellowed as the one on the left, maybe even a bit more but not by much.

#608 1 year ago

First time I saw the Diner club. Didn't realize we had one.

#609 1 year ago

We are low profile

#610 1 year ago

I have been looking to purchase our first pin for the last few months and saw a Diner today for $2500. Everything looks good from a rookies eye, just curious what the problem areas are that I should look into before purchasing. I haven't played it yet but can when I return, just didn't have time today. Thanks in advance!

#611 1 year ago

Raised DINER and customer inserts in the middle of the playfield.

#612 1 year ago

And the usual battery damage on the cpu. Open the coin door and test all the solenoids and flashers too.

#613 1 year ago

Maybe it will be a Diamond Plate PF.

#614 1 year ago
Quoted from BKos:

what the problem areas are that I should look into before purchasing.

Usual playfield wear around the top from the shooter lane exit to the eject hole. Broken clock on the backbox. Broken plastic over the center drop targets.

#615 1 year ago

yep, check all high voltage circuits; most important.

#616 1 year ago
Quoted from sawbill:

Maybe it will be a Diamond Plate PF.

It does and looks like I’m joining the club!

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#617 1 year ago
Quoted from BKos:

It does and looks like I’m joining the club!
[quoted image]

Sweet! Congratulations!!!!

#618 1 year ago

The eject hole at the top of the playfield (left of the rollovers) can be badly deteriorated. I did some bondo repair on mine and used a repurposed Cliffy kickout protector. It was *very tricky* to get it right, which surprised me; I ended up swapping out the backstop with the backstop on the ball lock saucer, because otherwise the ball kept bouncing back out no matter how I positioned the Cliffy. Anyway, I did get it to where the game plays just right, but it took some finagling. Worth it, as that kickout gets a TON of use in every game.

#619 1 year ago

I got my Diner way back on march 11th of this year and immediately tore it apart. Did a full resto and some bugs haunted me for months but I finally am able to enjoy my Diner!!!

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#620 1 year ago

it's a good game. have fun.

#621 1 year ago

Enjoy your game buddy!

#622 1 year ago

Oh My Gosh, there is nothing like playing a game you put so much time and efforrt into! I love this Diner! All the blood sweat and tears were worth it.

#623 1 year ago

I mean it's not perfect but man what a good time!

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#624 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I mean it's not perfect but man what a good time!
[quoted image]

Nice looking game!

Terrible picture.

1 week later
#625 1 year ago

Dang, that's a *very* clean playfield. No wear around the inserts...really nice. Keep that game waxed! Maybe shoot another clear layer at some point to preserve it.

#626 1 year ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Dang, that's a *very* clean playfield. No wear around the inserts...really nice. Keep that game waxed! Maybe shoot another clear layer at some point to preserve it.

Thanks. It has about 10 coats of clear on it now. Was a very fun project.

#627 1 year ago

Mine had worn artwork around d the characters and DINER letters from day one. Couldn't think of a good way to restore that since there aren't easy to mask boundary lines and the art is on both the playfield and the inserts; did you have to do that? If so how did you repair it?

#628 1 year ago

Mine had mylar down, but the inserts raised and the edges were worn. Some other spots were worn around the top but I repaired and touched it all up. I logged what I could here on pinside. I filled in gaps with clear then did the touchup. I also covered the inserts with intercoat clear before the 2 part clear. I wanted to avoid the insert issue with sys 11's.

#629 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I logged what I could here on pinside.

Link to thread?

#631 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Mine had mylar down, but the inserts raised

My inserts are raised under the Mylar but my Mylar is in good shape, no wear spots. Anyway to tap them back down into the playfield without removing the mylar?

#632 1 year ago

I think they will continue to move unless you glue them in. Just a thought; what if you tap slightly farther out, then put glue on the backside and tapped back down? I think just glueing the back side would not be permanent enough.

#633 1 year ago

Does anyone have their lift ramp fire 2 or 3 times before it stays up? At first it wouldn't stay but I bent the bracket that catches. A little more and it seems to bind though.

#634 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Does anyone have their lift ramp fire 2 or 3 times before it stays up? At first it wouldn't stay but I bent the bracket that catches. A little more and it seems to bind though.

That little mechanism is pretty finicky. Mine was like that when I got it. Now it works every time but vibration during play can make it fall. The machine lifts it back up immediately if that happens though.

#635 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

think they will continue to move unless you glue them in. Just a thought; what if you tap slightly farther out, then put glue on the backside and tapped back down? I think just glueing the back side would not be permanent enough.

I would be very cautious about striking 28 year old inserts with a mallet to set them; they may be brittle and apt to crack. A welder's 12" C-clamp or a vise-grip clamp such as Kreg makes would be a safer option. In either case, it's tricky to do without some degree of disassembly.

If you use the Loctite 2-part epoxy sold at hardware stores, you can swab in some glue on the backside of the inserts. Yes, it does seem better to have glue on the edges of the inserts, but there isn't any real way to do that short of removing and reinstalling them, which on Diner would make a mess of the artwork. Mine is a diamond plate but the clear was no match for the moving inserts (I've got a playfield protector on mine now). The wear around them isn't *horrible*, but would make for a pretty tough repair match, so I put my name on the CPR list.

Pinball perfectionism is a cruel mistress...

#636 1 year ago

All my Diner's large PF inserts were all over the map, tilted in different directions and some by quite a lot. I bought one of those HarborFreight 12" deep throat C-lamps, put wax paper on the topside, and small piece of hardwood over that. Removed the nearby sockets, wires, etc underneath. Put 2 part epoxy in a few spots around the insert perimeter, bridge over the insert on the underside with a scrap of wood, and clamped it. My epoxy would hold fast within 15 minutes. I could push them down by hand and they would spring up again immediately. Hitting them would have been pointless. The epoxy fix is permanent and pretty easy. Occasionally for various reasons I could not get one perfectly flush but definitely flat enough you would never think it was something to fix.

#637 1 year ago

I have a Diamondplate Pf with some 'insert opportunities'. Do I spend the money on having it restored/reworked, or do I wait and buy a CPR pf?

Technically if I go the latter, I will not have an early production game, but rather a game with a 'repro pf' and a yellow wireform. No way to differentiate from a early production vs a later production with a yellowed ramp....

#638 1 year ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

I have a Diamondplate Pf with some 'insert opportunities'. Do I spend the money on having it restored/reworked, or do I wait and buy a CPR pf?
Technically if I go the latter, I will not have an early production game, but rather a game with a 'repro pf' and a yellow wireform. No way to differentiate from a early production vs a later production with a yellowed ramp....

I completely enjoy restoring my playfileds but it takes a lot of time to make it look good. If you have the patiance and enjoy it, go for it. Mine was completely destroyed and I am very happy with the final product.

#639 1 year ago
Quoted from Wmsfan:

Technically if I go the latter, I will not have an early production game, but rather a game with a 'repro pf' and a yellow wireform.

Or swap in the CPR and take as much time as you need to restore your original. At that point you'll be able to sell either playfield and make back your money.

#640 1 year ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Sweet. It looks like Diner pf has graduated from the preorder list, and is now being made.
[quoted image]
Now we just need the coffee cup to be re-run. Or if anyone has a spare, let me know.

I'm in need for a new coffee cup as well- anyone have any leads?

#641 1 year ago

Did you know that if you end a game with a ball locked, you can start a new game before the match sequence ends and you get to keep the lock? Kinda cheap, but just did it accidently.

#642 1 year ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Did you know that if you end a game with a ball locked, you can start a new game before the match sequence ends and you get to keep the lock? Kinda cheap, but just did it accidently.

I didn't know that.

#643 1 year ago

Anyone with a Diner parts playfield? I need the gate wire that is just to the right of the 'T' rollover lane at the top of the pf. The one-way gate that would keep the ball at the top to drain via the E-A-T lanes....yes I could try bending one, but I'd like an actual one if possible.

#644 1 year ago

I'm looking to maybe joining the club on this game. I've got a hmo Pinbot with a bit of mylar bubbling and the back of the topper cracked I may trade locally for Diner, owner wants a little cash on top. This game when I've tried it simulated seems like a whole lot of fun with lots more to do, and appears to lack the really finicky precision things pb has with the vortex and stuff. Would you as current/past owners feel 450 with the trade decent? And if I do this, anything I should be aware of as far as maintenance goes beyond the basics (like pb is with the vortex and center motorized targets?)

#645 1 year ago

I own both but have yet to play my pinbot. Still fixing it up. I love Diner, but I have spent my entire career in foodservice, so the theme works for me. Pinbot is a popular title and not sure Diner is worth 450 more, but that is just me. Condition of each would help make that call.

#646 1 year ago

According to pinside value the deal makes sense. I don't give a lot of weight to that though, but most people do.

#647 1 year ago
Quoted from Tanooki:

I'm looking to maybe joining the club on this game. I've got a hmo Pinbot with a bit of mylar bubbling and the back of the topper cracked I may trade locally for Diner, owner wants a little cash on top. This game when I've tried it simulated seems like a whole lot of fun with lots more to do, and appears to lack the really finicky precision things pb has with the vortex and stuff. Would you as current/past owners feel 450 with the trade decent? And if I do this, anything I should be aware of as far as maintenance goes beyond the basics (like pb is with the vortex and center motorized targets?)

I own both as well.

Diner is more rare, hard to find in some places and in good condition, it will fetch more money I think. Diner will become more collectable as some people love sys11.

As for gameplay. Pinbot is a far more difficult and punishing game. It's a more mature theme as well.

Diner is more family oriented and games last generally longer, at least for me. Rules are simpler I think. I like Pinbot road to multi-ball better than Diner which is hard to finish (spinner shot if tough in mine). Diner is a very pretty game. Diner music is great as well.

I owned both Diner and Taxi and I sold Taxi. I liked Diner better of the two in terms of gameplay. Taxi's music and callouts are tough to beat though.

#648 1 year ago
Quoted from Tanooki:

anything I should be aware of as far as maintenance goes beyond the basics

Make sure the cash register ramp goes up down correctly. Verify the diverter works on the right ramp to the cup. Make sure the clock works in the backglass. Check for broken plastic on center drop targets. Check for wear on the orbit out of the shooter lane on top of the game (orange part). And check for raised insert (especially the big customer ones in the middle)

#649 1 year ago

Well the current Diner up for trade in Louisville where I am is up on this site. Mine is not, it's just quietly sitting here, back of the topper is cracked, some bubbling in places on the mylar, but other than some superficial age wear/damage in here or there it's in excellent shape and no paint/wear loss on the play field as it's home use only. So I wasn't quite sure, figured I'd ask here as you all would know the best in this case.

Like you said Tomass, I don't put a lot of value in that either. I asked about the pb table here on the site a couple years back in the thread dedicated to that one, showed images of everything and was told 2K was fair, so unless my table lost value or they were just fan pricing it, I felt the margin felt a bit wide so I asked.

If you're curious: https://www.flickr.com/photos/22443064@N08/albums/72157690475359734 That's mine.

#650 1 year ago
Quoted from Plumonium:

I own both as well.
Diner is more rare, hard to find in some places and in good condition, it will fetch more money I think. Diner will become more collectable as some people love sys11.
As for gameplay. Pinbot is a far more difficult and punishing game. It's a more mature theme as well.
Diner is more family oriented and games last generally longer, at least for me. Rules are simpler I think. I like Pinbot road to multi-ball better than Diner which is hard to finish (spinner shot if tough in mine). Diner is a very pretty game. Diner music is great as well.
I owned both Diner and Taxi and I sold Taxi. I liked Diner better of the two in terms of gameplay. Taxi's music and callouts are tough to beat though.

Pinbot is sys 11

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