So I'm pretty excited - I have a Dialed In coming tomorrow. I have basically been out of the hobby over the past couple years, so this is the first pinball move I have made in awhile (sadly, two of my existing pins were sacrificed to make this a reality).

Combing through all the posts regarding Dialed In, I have distilled a checklist of a few things I need to look into. I am hoping some owners out there can share some of their adjustments / advice that I may have missed.

1. Turn upper flipper coil strength down to 15 (so as to not destroy the SIM hole) - consider metal protectors from Cliffy or factory (WIP).
2. Check the sensitivity of the skill shot switch (top of the playfield) to avoid balls hang ups.
3. Adjust magnet delay time in Quantum Reality theater (in diags) so the ball is tossed back up into the pops and not dropped SDTM.
4. Protect cabinet art from destruction from deadly possible new leg design (I bought felt from Terry).
5. Make sure the trap door is working and doesn't get stuck. Lloyd recommends applying a spot of oil to pivot point and release coil contact point mechanism.
6. Factory mylar over the two magnet cores may bubble over time - one solution is to remove mylar installed directly on the metal cores.
7. Adjust backbox lock mechanism as necessary to correct design flaw (early production models only).

I think that is all I can remember - if there is anything else, I sure would appreciate a heads-up!

-PC

You know - after reading through some of these threads the other day, I removed the backglass on my WOZ for the first time. That was a bitch. This must be a design feature of JJP I'll keep this thread handy when I remove the DI backglass - thx.

I do have a sheet of mylar - somewhere.. maybe, I haven't looked through my pinball stash in awhile.

This is the first I heard anything about the wireform exit - what's the deal with it?

Thanks everyone, all good so far! Looking forward to the kids going to bed so I can really dig into these tips.

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I've heard that the legs have been coming in contact with the decal at a specific pinch point causing some creasing. I added some felt and made sure I didn't overtighten the legs. Seems to work OK so far (one day .
I haven't noticed an underpowered right flipper yet - will pay attention the next time I play tonight.
Other observations:
My game has a mfr date of 7/12/17
The upper flipper coil strength was already set to 15 at the factory - I turned it up to 17 as 15 was just too weak.
Right flasher light on the moving target wasn't working - it was a loose cable.
I have a noticeable scuff on the right side head decal - probably from the factory
My trap door was working good - but then wouldn't shut after about a dozen plays - temp fix by manually actuating the device.
One of the LEDs in the phone is dead - ugh, I bet that won't be easy to replace (I assume it will need a new pcb).
The pop bumber GI light is missing the connector cable entirely. I looked and looked for a dangling stray cable that may have jarred loose - but no luck so far. It seems GI lighting comes from an octopus type connector (a defined number of wire harnesses join at a common molex connector) - so this seems strange.
The spotlight on Betty flickers when lit - much like the acrylic wizard on WOZ. I wonder if this is just inherent in the lighting system?
Backglass popped right off - no trouble at all
All-in-all pretty minor considering how much stuff is packed into this pin. Looking at the phone, though, I bet it will be a real PITA to fix.
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Added over 7 years ago: update - I found the missing cable to the pop bumper GI light and plugged it in.

By Bob - do you mean the moving target, the Bob sign or something else?

Right - just wanted to make sure. Is there a known issue with the bottom two lights on the sign? Mine are working fine (I tested individually in LED test).

Me too - but maybe next time we don't drink El Toro tequila; the little red hat isn't worth the junk booze hangover - I'll spring for the good stuff

Something else I noticed in YouTube videos; I love that the comic strip cycles during attract mode. Mine hasn't shown that yet. Is it something that happens very occasionally and I haven't had it in attract long enough? I didn't notice anything in settings that mentions it.

Nope - I just noticed while playing tonight that my bottom BOB light were reversed, too

Three occurrences makes a trend, three trends make it common.

I did just spent an hour fixing the trap door. That is a hot mess that is sure to cause a lot of problems unless JJP changes something on the mech. I had to take it off, study it, figure out how it works and fix it.

I did find the cable that was not connected to the GI for the jets. It was bound into a ziptie bunch - needed to cut the zip to retrieve and connect it and rezip. Works great now.

I do just love the game, tho. Sound quality is amazing, far better than WOZ.

It's not necessary, but if you want the game to perform as it was intended to - then yes.

Chances are, if you don't adjust the magnet delay, the theater won't work properly and will often send the ball straight down the middle.

For me, if I didn't fix the trapdoor mechanism, it never would shut and I wouldn't have the left orbit shot available (making it impossible to complete certain modes).

Not waiting for better protection, my SIM card hole chipped - but I can live with that (it is not something you can see unless you look for it).

If I didn't check for loose connectors, some of my LEDs would still be non-operational.

It's common on all new machines to do some end user adjustments - it is not a big deal. These complex mechanical devices get jarred around quite a bit during shipping.

I cut out the mylar on the drone core - it was pretty gummy already but cleaned up nice. I am not going to bother with the theater core - too hard to access that location. It will be a good test to see what happens if you cut out the core as compared to not cutting it out. Great advice, though.

Unfortunately, at least for me, I had to study the mech to figure out why the door wouldn't shut.

There are two coils used in the mech.

The big coil actuates a lever that opens the trap door.

The door stay open because of a "notch" that catches a small bent plate.

The small coil pulls the bent plate away and the door shuts via gravity - kind of the like the classic animal trap with a stick and box. When the animal is under the box, you pull a string that releases the stick and the box falls to trap the animal.

What is awry with DI trap door - when the small release coil pulls the bent plate away from the notch, it inadvertently forces the trap door to pop up briefly before it shuts and the bent plate falls back into the catch position after the coil pulse and before the door falls.

So using the animal trap analogy, when the stick gets pulled out from the box, the box pops upwards from the force of the stick being pulled away and the stick resets itself before the box falls to the ground.

In software this could be easily corrected by holding the small coil a few milliseconds longer to allow the door to shut (via gravity).

Mechanically, I had to remount the mechanism to ensure there was no friction with the lever mechanism, and slightly bend the catch plate so it doesn't make the trap door pop up as hard on release. A dab of oil on the catch plate can reduce the upward force of the trap door, but it wasn't enough to correct it for me.

Mechanically, it's kind of a complicated problem that could easily be resolved in software (at least I think .

I did end up cutting the Mylar from the theater core from the underside of the playfield. There are three screws holding the magnet in place, removing those allows you to pull the core and carefully cut out the Mylar from the under side with an exacto knife, clean the gunk off the core and replace. I needed to recalibrate the magnet delay in diags after reassembling.

Nope - I cut the drone right on the playfield being very careful not to cut the wood, right around the magnet core seam. Use a sharp xacto with a fresh blade.