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(Topic ID: 273211)

Did the Williams chime unit have rubber part on chime where struck?


By loomis

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 29 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 73 days ago by Phoenix_Quill
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There have been 5 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

chime1 (resized).jpg
chime2 (resized).jpg
chime_slug2 (resized).jpg
WLL-B10686-1+ (resized).jpg
Capture (resized).PNG

#1 3 months ago

Hi.

Did the Williams chime units have some sort of material between the tip of the coil slug and the chime bar itself, where the strike happens? Like a piece of rubber or something? And if so, can someone show me a picture? Or if no, was it just metal hitting metal?

Thanks

#2 3 months ago

The plunger should have a rubber tip

#4 3 months ago

Hmmm that white piece posted above looks nothing like anything that was ever on this machine. Before I got this machine, the chime coil and parts around it had a meltdown, and I so I can see that there was some possibly black round donut looking thing (now a blob) either under the chime or on the end of the slug, but nothing like that white part pictured above.

#5 3 months ago

nylon tipped plunger
The chimes has rubber grommets where they attached to the chime box

#6 3 months ago

So the chime striker has same type of rubber tip that's on the plunger that is used to launch the pinball onto the playfield?

My chime itself has one hole in each end of the bar, two white plastic spools (aka spindles) one through each hole, and then a pair of brown felt doughnuts on the top and bottom of the spindle at each end. A screw goes through each, into the wood chime box.

#7 3 months ago
Quoted from loomis:

So the chime striker has same type of rubber tip that's on the plunger that is used to launch the pinball onto the playfield?
My chime itself has one hole in each end of the bar, two white plastic spools (aka spindles) one through each hole, and then a pair of brown felt doughnuts on the top and bottom of the spindle at each end. A screw goes through each, into the wood chime box.

No, it’s a nylon tip. You need to replace the whole plunger. PBR sells them.

#8 3 months ago
Quoted from loomis:

so I can see that there was some possibly black round donut looking thing

They sit on a rubber foam cushion.

Scroll down: http://www.pbresource.com/bells.html

#9 3 months ago
Quoted from currieddog:

They sit on a rubber foam cushion.
Scroll down: http://www.pbresource.com/bells.html

That's one piece of PBR kits I won't use. That stuff can melt to the plunger when it heats up and gunk up the plunger. There are holes in the chime frame that you can put grommets in that are far superior to the foam. If no holes you can glue in hard rubber that won't melt.

#10 3 months ago

This is the rubber part that I am talking about here:

The original one must've melted and turned to glue, causing the slug to stick to it at some point, and melted down the coil, like EMsin said.

WLL-B10686-1+ (resized).jpg

#11 3 months ago

And also this rubber lipstick-looking part too:

chime_slug2 (resized).jpg

#12 3 months ago

Usually the plunger gets gunk on it and either sticks to the bottom or in the coil. It will not melt the coil.

#13 3 months ago

Ok I have more details figured out.

The bottom of the slug (the flat side) fused with the rubber grommet at some point. The nipple end of the slug was halfway inside the coil, and the coil housing and sleeve melted down in the middle of the coil, surrounding the nipple. I'm assuming because the back of the slug became stuck to the grommet.

I had to cut the top half the coil apart and unwind it because I couldn't get to the screws to get the slug out, because it was locked at both ends, fully extended downward. I also couldn't get in from the top of the coil hole in order to try to cut the melted plastic out, because it was just not possible. Especially while trying to save the rubber nipple which I wasn't sure if it was in tact or not.

Now that I have it out, I think I can just insert an audio equipment rubber wire grommet in the bottom stop where the flat end of the slug hits. But maybe the slug will just knock it out. Who knows.

#14 3 months ago

What game is this on?

With all that you did is the coil still good now.?

#15 3 months ago
Quoted from loomis:

This is the rubber part that I am talking about here:
The original one must've melted and turned to glue, causing the slug to stick to it at some point, and melted down the coil, like EMsin said.
[quoted image]

I’m honestly confused what you are showing here. The chime is a 26-800 coil and the knocker is a 23-750 coil. It looks like a knocker assembly.

#16 3 months ago
Quoted from Mikala:

I’m honestly confused what you are showing here. The chime is a 26-800 coil and the knocker is a 23-750 coil. It looks like a knocker assembly.

No top on it for the plunger to hit though. I've never seen a Williams chime like that which is why I asked which game it is.

#17 3 months ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

No top on it for the plunger to hit though. I've never seen a Williams chime like that which is why I asked which game it is.

It’s a ‘69 Paddock

#18 3 months ago
Quoted from Mikala:

It’s a ‘69 Paddock

Coil shouldn't have a diode on it.

#19 3 months ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

Coil shouldn't have a diode on it.

I think the OP just posted a photo from the Internet (PBR), and that’s not his actual part. Which is what confused us.

#20 3 months ago

You just got me motivated to take the chime unit apart in my Big Shot since the 1,000 plunger is burred so much it doesn't even sound.

Be back in 40 minutes or so....

#21 3 months ago

Our paddock has the wooden chime box in the back box with a single coil and a single chime bar. It uses the plunger with the nylon tip that currieddog showed and does have a grommet on the bracket where the plunger rests. I remember searching for those grommets because they’re used on knockers and the single bell units. Can’t remember if I got them from PBR or Marco, but I can look it up if needed.

Dave

#22 3 months ago

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_1971-1972/index.html#/43/zoomed

You should be able to order the plunger with nylon tip, new coil & rubber bumper grommet from Pinball Resource.

#23 3 months ago

Hi. Ok I confused you guys by showing a PBR part. I apologize. Machine is a Williams Paddock.

I've clarified this thread in these two photos. Please have a look and tell me what you think.

Thanks
chime2 (resized).jpgchime1 (resized).jpg

#24 3 months ago

Woah holy cow I didn't know these parts manuals existed, let alone were online at that planetary pinball website!

Thanks to you guys posting the link to the parts manual I can now easily see that the chime unit's rubber grommet is part number 23A-6454, and the chime's plastic spools are part number 3A-7217. I also see the nipple-tipped slug if I decide I need a replacement.

Now the question is will PBR (why is their name Pabst Blue Ribbon?) have these parts.

#25 3 months ago
Quoted from loomis:

Now the question is will PBR (why is their name Pabst Blue Ribbon?) have these parts.

I've actually had a PBR at PBR!

#26 3 months ago

Pin Ball Resource is THE place for licensed Gottlieb parts, and has lots of pinball parts for all brands of machines. This is an old fashioned business - phone calls work best, and the website is not totally up to date. If you need a hard to find part, Steve likely has it.

If you have time, search the threads for Pinball Resource or PBR or specifically, Steve at Pinball Resource. He is a wealth of information, but is very direct. If you don't have the part number, do some searching first. If you have the wrong part that doesn't go for your machine, he will let you know.

#27 3 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Pin Ball Resource is THE place for licensed Gottlieb parts, and has lots of pinball parts for all brands of machines. This is an old fashioned business - phone calls work best, and the website is not totally up to date. If you need a hard to find part, Steve likely has it.
If you have time, search the threads for Pinball Resource or PBR or specifically, Steve at Pinball Resource. He is a wealth of information, but is very direct. If you don't have the part number, do some searching first. If you have the wrong part that doesn't go for your machine, he will let you know.

I've spoken with him twice now. He's very helpful. Quintessential New Yorker. Now that I know about this parts catalog, I can call PBR and not sound like a total idiot again.

#28 3 months ago
Quoted from loomis:

I've spoken with him twice now. He's very helpful. Quintessential New Yorker. Now that I know about this parts catalog, I can call PBR and not sound like a total idiot again.

The legend of Steve as an irascible a-hole will never die. I'm sure there's times when he's busy and people ask him dumb questions and he gets a bit tired of it. There's also times when you call up there and you practically have to hang up on him because he gets on a roll and wants to talk your ear off.

I think most of it comes from people who don't know any better who want to argue with him. Stay in your lane. The man is a walking pinball encyclopedia and he's forgotten more than most of us will ever know. 99.9% of the time if he tells you something he's right.

It's going to be a sad day when he decides he doesn't want to do it any longer and there's nobody there to take over which is how it looks right now at least. All of us who restore these old games are going to be in a bad way when that happens.

4 weeks later
#29 73 days ago

I have a question, I just bought one of these myself, and noticed 2 things, one was that my chime is wrapped up in what looks like painters tape, it still makes a clonking noise, but that's about it. Wasn't sure if I should remove the tape.
But the other thing I noticed was in a video of the machine, there's a second higher chime, but I don't hear one on mine, any idea what that's about?

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