Quoted from 20eyes:

Are you using the original MPU/Driver interconnect or an IDE cable? Not sure if these boards support the IDE replacement anymore. Sounds like it could be a bad connection between the MPU and driver.

Quoted from ChrisHibler:Curious. What does "bullet proofing" the sound board amount to?
I'd remove the fluorescent tube while debugging. The EMI from those things can cause issues at boot, at the very least.
The signals to the sound board come from the driver board. It is important that all of the edge connectors are clean, without oxidation or corrosion.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

One edge of the driver board has only two connectors. Both of them should be repinned.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

One edge of the driver board has only two connectors. Both of them should be repinned.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Quoted from G-P-E:

Contacts:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=77
Extraction tool:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=140
11-03-0016 (Molex)
W-HT-1884 (Waldom) looks just like the Molex but does not fit properly into these edge connectors.
As you can tell by the price, Molex is real proud of this tool. Some people (me) are too cheap to pay for the Molex tool and make our own. I have a slightly modified jeweler's screwdriver that costs much less and works just as well.

Quoted from zacaj:

They're not really designed to be removed, but it's not too bad. Need to push the locking tab on the pin in hard enough for it to stay down, then try to pull the wire out (which may take some finesse since there's tabs to hold it). Often the pin will come out with the wire, sometimes you need to use a pick or needle nose to pull it out after.

Quoted from G-P-E:

08-52-0072 works well for vast majority of fixes. 08-52-0134 is used when you have real small wires into the connector (can't think of any that small on a Gottlieb).

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Those aren't easy to find these days. I'd reuse as many as you can.
Hard to tell from the pic, but that one seems usable still.
That one is still in stock, fortunately.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=09-01-6041
Check around on Ed's site for others you might need.
Ed is the only supplier that I am aware of.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Yes. But it isn’t really needed for the type of connector pictured. I use a small screwdriver to smash the pin from the back, through the small rectangular hole where the pin tang snaps in to hold the pin. The pin can be easily pulled out after this.
To repin the black connector used to connect MPU and driver board, you do need that tool or something like it.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

Quoted from zacaj:

It doesn't need to be very small, most standard ones will work. It doesn't go in from the side, there's a little window on the front of the connector for each pin, where you can see the metal pin has a small tab holding it in against the edge of the window.

Quoted from the9gman:

exactly black on ground red on lead on the line.....I don't have your particular machine but all system 80B s use the same architecture the MA766 and the 886 use the same type commands. they use pull up resistors on the sound card and negative triggers to control the music and sounds ...most machines use lines labeled sound 1,sound 2,sound 4 ,sound 8 and sound 16 to create 31 possible triggers. During the game there is also a sequence that resets the board ......look on your schematics for these lines and they should all read 5 volts the triggers are so fast that you can only see them with an O-scope and you wont pick them up with a meter other then sound 16 which is controlled by the driver board under certain conditions so during the game it will be high or low but at the start it should be high. The same goes for sound 32 but it is not used in most games

Quoted from the9gman:

yes sound 1 thru 8 comes from the mpu and usually sound 16 from the driver board

Quoted from the9gman:

right if one of the lines is shorted to ground the board will not reset at the beginning of the game only when you reset the card manually like you spoke of earlier....you can turn on the game and hit the start button and then do you checks before you shoot the ball

Quoted from the9gman:

exactly

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

You are thinking of this wrong.
Those signals are tied to a pull-up resistor on the sound board.
Unless the MPU pulls that signal to ground, all of those pins should be at 5VDC (or close).
If you remove that connector and measure power at each of those pins, they should read 5V.
The game makes sounds by the MPU pulling 1 or more of those pins low, indicating a particular sound to play or an action to take.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

I can't see what connector that is in the second pic.
The first one looks normal to me.
While some pins are connected on the sound board PCB, they won't necessarily have a corresponding offboard wire.
With P1 removed, power on.
Each pin on P1, should measure 5VDC due to the onboard pullup resistor.
Black on backbox ground.
Red on each pin one at a time.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info[quoted image]

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

I can't see what connector that is in the second pic.
The first one looks normal to me.
While some pins are connected on the sound board PCB, they won't necessarily have a corresponding offboard wire.
With P1 removed, power on.
Each pin on P1, should measure 5VDC due to the onboard pullup resistor.
Black on backbox ground.
Red on each pin one at a time.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info[quoted image]

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

The black black orange and the
Green black black wires?
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com/ - The new place for pinball repair info

Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Those are sound select signals. They will come from the driver board.
With P1 removed, they should measure 5VDC.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info[quoted image]

Quoted from the9gman:

without having the schematics for the game its hard to tell, on most games, sound 16 which looks like pin 9 on A6P1 ...black black green usually comes from the driver board ....usually a transistor on that board and on most games it goes from the driver board thru P9 and then to the sound card.
Pin 10 looks like it is the NOT/Reset Not is designated by the line over the word reset ....from the looks of the and gate its tied to and the pull up resistor it should be normally high 5 .....my guess is that it comes directly from the MPU .....understand here that without the schematics I'm kinda pissing in the wind. That line may supposed to be held low on purpose . The reset of the 6502 chip on the sound board happens on a positive pulse ....that line may go positive for a millisecond at the start of the game to initiate a reset but you will never see it without an O-SCOPE
for now I would concentrate on pin 9 and check for a shorted transistor on the driver board or something mis-wired

Quoted from the9gman:

yes that is where it is coming from ....usually goes from there thru P9 and then to the sound board

Quoted from the9gman:

i thought about this after the last post ....I would just disconnect and insulate sound 16 off the sound board and then fire the game up and see if the sound card works normally ....with sound 16 disconnected you will be missing some sounds but the card should still work. if it does you need to find out where the short is on that line and it can be the Z2 flip flop chip holding Q5 on which is holding sound 16 low

Quoted from rocketman:

I’d take the 16 molex pin out of the connector and black tape her .... so which lady do you like best on the playfield??

Quoted from the9gman:

on the driver board on the schematic and yes I would just pull the pin and tape it back just to test it

Quoted from the9gman:

z2 provides a high to turn on Q5 which grounds output sound 16 ......so the question is if you open that line does the sound card reset normally on the start of the game ....then you have to figure out is Q5 on or is it shorted .....if it is on there will be a positive voltage on the base you can check it on either side of R5....if there is not then Q5 is bad

Quoted from the9gman:

exactly there will be a positive voltage on both sides of it and as long as its higher then + 1.2vdc it will turn Q5 on and Q5 will output a ground for sound 16
I would put the black lead on A3J4 pin 15 which should be the board ground and the red lead on R5

Quoted from frunch:

Which connectors have you re-pinned so far?

Quoted from frunch:

I don't have the schematics and i can't find them for download. Do you have a copy? I want to see what each of those connectors are for (and the rest of the connectors for that matter, to narrow down which could be the trouble maker)

Quoted from frunch:

Could you post the schematics that show the driver board connectors you re-pinned?

Quoted from frunch:

Have you replaced the big connector between the driver board and mpu? It looks like the sound signals go across that connector...

Quoted from yfz450:

Take a close look at the reset line going to the displays. Orange/black/white, I believe? If you don't get that reset signal when you turn on the machine, your sound board won't boot. Had this problem on my Genesis. Its been awhile but I believe that was my problem.
J.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Keep the connector and just repin it.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

I think you should repin every connector that you know hasn’t been repinned or replaced.
There has to be something that can substitute and used to get the old pins out of that connector.

Quoted from frunch:

Could you post a pic of the IDE cable you installed there?

Quoted from frunch:

Could you post a pic of the IDE cable you installed there?

Quoted from frunch:

Ohhhhh, i totally didn't realize the mpu had an IDE connector! Is that an aftermarket mpu? Does the driver board have an IDE plug as well? If so, i wouldn't necessarily bother getting the connectors from Docent. IDE cables are the better choice if possible.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Don’t worry about anything in the cabinet right now. Concentrate on repinning every connector that plugs into the boards in the head. Report back once all of that is done.

Quoted from frunch:

Says somewhere in the bottom cabinet. Not very helpful, lol! Still, it's a place to start looking. In fact, it appears to be a 9-pin connector and all the wire color codes are labeled.
[quoted image]
Just refer to the chart at the bottom right where the color codes are listed. [quoted image]
Then you can track down the 9-pin connector in the bottom of the cab that has that set of colored wires.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Remember all connectors have labels on them. Also remember that the connectors in the cabinet are mostly the cubed shaped ones. I’d look for a 3x3 one.

Quoted from chuckwurt:

A10J2 is in the backbox. It’s right in line with 1A4J1.
It’s square with 9 pins in it.