(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club


By goren1818

2 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (2 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (2 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (1 year ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (1 year ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (1 year ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (1 year ago)

Post #1253 Velcro fix for right ramp hangup Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1258 Detailed pictures for adjusting a misbehaving trap door Posted by foobeer (1 year ago)

Post #1332 Getting access to computer in backbox on Dialed In Posted by hank527 (1 year ago)

Post #1347 Ball trap location. Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1377 Fix for USB at the coin door not working Posted by Pinhead1982 (1 year ago)

Post #1391 Fix for Tilt Bob not working all of a sudden Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1431 Adjustment point to grease for trap door to operate smoothly Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1451 Adjusting arm on Quantum Mechanic Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #2507 How to get in backbox to check audio connections Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #2661 DIY Lighting how-to for sides of Dialed In backglass Posted by lyonsden (1 year ago)


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#370 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

I hope they update some of the music and call outs.

What's there now is within newscast/disaster theme, so I'm not sure how they could make it better without breaking the cohesion of all the things that make Dialed In feel and sound like it does.

#372 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

I don't think some decent Jackpot callouts would hurt the cohesion.

Within the game's framework of newscaster and announcer, what kind of callouts would you call "decent"?

#380 2 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

Certainly glad I moved the "Visit Bob's when flashing" sign to be at a better angle.

That (better) orientation creates a potential ball trap. I did something similar, but faced it with a piece of clear so an airball couldn't get caught there.

#386 2 years ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

What playfield angle are you using? 6.5, 6, less?

I think it's cool that Dialed In comes preset to 6.5 degrees with all levelers down. Out of the box, it's the "right" angle.

#389 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yeah I've never tried this but I keep hearing it. Is it true because JJP set up info does not claim it.

I was claimed at the launch of the machine by JJP.

#401 2 years ago
Quoted from mrofnoc:

The phone scoop protector made it harder on mine, and even worse as the protector deformed from ball hits. It's worse than it looks in the pic as the top is dented which you can't see real well in the pic. The right side got it worse which I blamed on the mini post, could be wrong, but replaced that post with sleeve like the one to the left of the scoop and removed the protector. Much better now.
The ball kept getting hung up on the skill shot protector, so it had to go as well.
Sim hole protector is great and so is the one for the trough.
No clue what that other one in the kit was for. Shaped like a V and maybe 2 inches long.

The V shaped one was probably two stuck together. They're protectors for the inlane rollovers where the ball drops in from the ramps.

Did it look like this:
http://littleshopofgames.com/product/universal-rollover-protector/

It looks like the left side of the phone protector in your pic was tweaked by tightening the post that goes into it too much. Might have torqued the whole protector just enough to make shots harder. It shouldn't have that much of an effect when it's installed.

#404 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

If your game isn't steep enough, the ball can get hung up on the skill shot protector. I set my game at 7 and occasionally it will still gets stuck, but a slight nudge sets it free.

If you adjust it *just right* it will never get stuck. It took me over a week of adjusting to find the sweet spot. It involved bending it back so the wire wasn't so vertical, and then centering it left to right (by loosening the switch, adjusting, re-tightening). Lots of trial and error, but hasn't stuck there for over a month, and it was doing it every 6-8 games.

#405 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Been playing location DI for awhile now. More airballs than I expected, some already mentioned here. Sometimes (got it twice in the same game) the electricity guy on a stick, when it is all the way over to the right, will impede the ball from rolling down the wireform habitrail to return to the left flipper. The lightning bolt sticks out over that wireform and stops the ball. Strange. Gets cleared when the electro guy moves during ball search. Could have easily been averted with a simple design change.

The lightning he's holding is installed backwards. It doesn't do that if it's installed correctly. There's even a paper that comes with the new machine warning of installing it wrong and showing how it's supposed to be done. Someone didn't read instructions at that location.

#407 2 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

The operator has to install a playfield toy himself? Not done at the factory? Just want to get my story straight when I alert the operator.

The QED guy's there, installed on the track from the factory, but the lightning piece isn't in his hands, you have to snap it in. Takes like 2 seconds. But if you don't read the instructions, some people install it backwards or upside down, leading to the issues you're talking about.

#421 2 years ago
Quoted from mrofnoc:

Not that one. See pic.

Oh, that's for the right side of the shooter lane. You MUST use a clamp when installing so it doesn't slip out of alignment after installation.

#422 2 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Anyone worked out an anti-ball trap for the right side of the left Ride Train ramp? Have had about 500 games played and it's the most common spot an air ball gets stuck. Can't shake it loose either.

Where? (Picture?) I can't visualize where you're talking about it getting stuck.

#423 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Tests - Devices - Theater. I set mine at 90
LTG : )

Negative 90, right?

#424 2 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Another small question, should the left orbit shot go around smoothly and quickly? On my machine it almost always enters the skill shot or the pops. I've got the right flipper at maximum strength but feels like it might not be strong enough.

Smooth on the one here. You shouldn't have to have the flipper at max to get the machine to work right. I think I only have the one here set 2 over stock.

Do you have an iphone? Super slo-mo recording is really helpful tracking down problems. Take the glass off and record the ball going into and coming out of (at the top) the left orbit and see if it's smooth of wobbling back and forth from wall to wall.

#426 2 years ago
Quoted from mrofnoc:

I noticed you have post sleeves on both sides of the phone scoop. Mine had a mini post on the right side but changed it to be like yours. Did yours come that way or did you change it?

The one here is white post sleeve on the left and mini post with a rubber on the right, not two sleeved posts. Build date on this one is 5/17.

#453 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Outstanding.
LTG : )

I dunno, in a lineup with Ghostbusters Premium and Batman SLE, it's earning about even with Ghostbusters Prem. That's not *bad*, but I thought it would do better. I really like it, but at this location it's at, the love is about 50/50. Although when someone gets selfie mode for the first time, it's funny when the people with them realize what's happening - they usually crack up and/or go nuts.

#463 1 year ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

I'd say that Dialed In isn't drawing that many casuals...most play is coming from the regulars (who are loving it).

Pretty much the same here. Casuals seem confused by it, which I think is weird, but I've seen it happen quite a bit. I even heard one player say "that one sucks" compared to Batman '66 next to it, which was...surprising. Veteran players seem to be the ones playing Dialed In the most. That said, DI is neck and neck with Ghostbusters Prem for earnings, pretty consistently.

#465 1 year ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Neck and neck with Ghostbusters current earnings? Or GB earnings back when it was new?

Week to week currently. GB is one of the best earners, and Dialed In is basically matching, not outperforming. The route I help with didn't get GB Prem until late Nov because of the playfield drama. Aerosmith Prem was an earnings dud and is already gone, just like Hobbit (which I think was hobbled because of the popping problem that made it irritating to play). KISS Prem and Metallica Prem both do very well on location (KISS earnings destroyed Aerosmith here).

#469 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Me to. I am about to pick up 3 Sterns to put at a brewery. GOT, GB, WWE.. Hope they do well..

GoT Premium does all right on location, but be sure to set it to casual mode. General public is REALLY confused when it asks them to choose a house right off the bat. Casual mode, you hit start and can launch a ball right off the bat. No questions.

I'd like to know what WWE does on location. I hate the game and believe it would be a dud earner, but it would be nice to have some real-world data.

#473 1 year ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

I think if WWE earned well, we would be seeing it on location.
GOT, after over a year at this location, has really picked up steam. Suddenly, and inexplicably, it has been #1 over the last two months. Maybe because of the show?
Also, I bought silicone grease today and went to put it on my left orbit trap door. Before doing so, I found a stronger spring and replaced the existing one. Works great again, no grease needed!

One month recently Play Meter had WWE on their monthly earning top 5! It HAD to be a tiny sample of operators for that to happen. I canned the Play Meter sub once they went from top 10 to top 5 lists for pins every month and seemed to radically reduce their survey sample size to get the rankings each month.

On GoT when I'm around at the location, I show regulars some of the ins and outs of choosing a house to play in advanced mode. They get a "new" experience with the game and seem to play more, trying out the various houses and devising strategies. Definitely bumps the machine's earnings. I wish Stern would update the machine to cover what's happened in the series since the game came out originally, but I'm sure that's a pipe dream.

Likewise, on Dialed In, if I'm around and a player is there, I'll show them the skill shot since it's not completely obvious.

#483 1 year ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Those things help a lot on DMDs, but I'm not sure how it would help much on a huge LCD.

I signed up for Play Meter and recently started contributing to these. It's a joke. The list you can choose from is preselected , and it's basically just modern Sterns, plus WOZ and TH, plus WNBJM. You choose a number 5-10 for each pin. That's it.
The latest poll had WNBJM tied for #1, based off a sample size of...get this: 1 operator. It's easy to back out the number of responses by looking at the percentages.

I guess that's their way of controlling the output due to the small sample size. But I have no idea WHY they use such a small sample size. I'm sure there are plenty of operators that would do the survey to get some legitimate data out of it by seeing the amalgamated lists monthly that they contributed to as well. The top earners would likely be similar and float to the top without the artificial restriction of a list.

#500 1 year ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

I believe that there are still NIB WWE games available from the initial run.

LE's, no less.

#547 1 year ago
Quoted from JWJr:

Once the phone is showing all the disaster icons, you can cycle through them (in both directions) with the flippers.

Or use the app to select disasters, launch the ball, and launch Big Bang on demand.

#548 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Yes I have done that. I'm wondering if you can TURN OFF the phone from constantly vibrating or ringing....

If you're getting the multiball notice for the first time, double tap both flippers to bypass multiball and stop the ringing. You only get this option ONCE.

#554 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

So skill shot not programmed yet?

Skill shot and double skill shots are all there.

Soft plunge to hit that little spot between the theatre exit and the pop bumper entrance for skill shot. When it ejects, hit the upper left ramp immediately to get a double skill shot. Which skill shot bonus is determined by what's lit in the shooter lane when you launch.

#564 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Right, it is. Got it once before I wrote the post and nothing happened, but since then its been paying out. Its a good skill shot too, and love the 2nd stage super skill shot.

If nothing happened (and that happens again), likely you have to adjust the stupid switch wire. The whole design of that area is REALLY touchy. Took me forever to get it adjusted so it would register and not get stuck so the ball had to wait for ball search.

#579 1 year ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

Remember when it was 6999 at expo launch, that was pretty hilarious.

SUPPOSEDLY that was a "joke" and was never the intended amount.

#582 1 year ago
Quoted from Vdrums:

Wow how long did that game last? Was that 3 balls or 5 (is that an appropriate question around here?)

Scores add up pretty fast if you manage to collect the SIM cards since they work as multipliers that really amp your score when you get a number of them.

#589 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

I just realized that some of the characters on the cell phone are not animated when speaking while others are. JJP revisiting to fix those or was that purposeful? Looks like they just ran out of time?

It's on the 1.13 bug list.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-113-bugs-and-features

#594 1 year ago
Quoted from tryton1000:

Hi all, I have the playfield protector on my LE, Every now and again, a ball will get trapped behind the right orbit flipper. Has anyone else had this issue? If so what would be the best way to fix it? Thanks in advance!

Doesn't it fall out when you raise the flipper?

#609 1 year ago
Quoted from tryton1000:

Not with the playfield protector

Doesn't releasing the flipper smack it out?

#617 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Why in the heck can't I find the setting to adjust the theatre magnet to prevent dropping the ball straight down the middle. I've read a negative setting is good but can anybody comment on where the hell this setting is and what number seems to work best. I'm at about a 6.6% pitch.

It's in the tests under theatre test, not the game settings (for some strange reason). Start at -90 and go down (bigger negative number) from there.

Since this seems to be a common "out of the box" adjustment needed by many, maybe JJP should add the location of the adjustment to the sheets with warnings and information taped to the glass when you unpack it.

#621 1 year ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Does anyone have a list of when the theater magnet should drop the ball down instead of flipping it back around to the upper flipper? My game does it during EMP and volcano mode, and also when hitting the train doors. The game was built about six weeks ago and had -120 for the theater magnet from the factory.

I haven't figured it out yet. Modes where I think it should it sometimes doesn't.

#623 1 year ago
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

Those modes are suppose to drop the ball down

I've had EMP whip it back and around, but I can't figure out why it does only sometimes.

#631 1 year ago
Quoted from psexton:

JJP sent me the metal protectors for the phone and sim scoops a couple of days ago. Both scoops already appear to have milar on them and I don't seem to see any issues of wear without having the metal protectors on and they appear to be quite a bit of work to put them on. I am sure it is best to put the metal protectors on but are they really necessary and what exactly would be the issue if I didn't put them on?

Put them on. Mylar will not stop the chipping, and they WILL chip.

#653 1 year ago
Quoted from dendoc:

I agree, much harder shot with the JJP protector on. I ordered a cliffy set before I knew the JJP ones were coming out, and may change it over for a comparison.

SIM card hole is no difference with the cliffy. Phone hole with a cliffy is initially a little harder, but after a few dozen games, it gets banged down and the hole shot is fine again. His being very thin helps.

#666 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Nope, but I have held both in my hand, and in my opinion Cliffy's are far superior...do what u want with that information

I don't have the JJP ones yet, but they look a LOT thicker in the pictures (which is not good). Is that the way they are in real life?

#669 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

suggestions for hitting the sim card shot? I've done it with left loop, right upper flipper but anything else? Also just installed mirror blades. looks nice...!

Practice with the upper right flipper. It's a hard shot to hit reliably, IMO.

#674 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Mirror blades in. REALLY makes the game pop even more - highly recommended as those black walls just look so incomplete. LE version - mirror blades from Pinball side mirrors:
https://pinballsidemirrors.com/product/pinball-side-mirrors/
Get the JJP WoZ/Hobbit size. Great company and was timely in responding to my questions. Installation was easy (youtube mirror blades and there are videos on how to do this) - no cutting or trimming necessary. The right one was harder to get in (really need to push in) but they installed well and look great.
I think the only thing this game might need is something in that back left corner (against the wall). What a great game though. So butter smooth.

Did you move your Crazy Bob's sign or are they coming like that from the factory now? I had to add a clear plastic from the subway station to the angled sign so there wasn't an airball trap with the re-orientation, though.

#676 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

No it was moved so you can see it better. Didn't come like that.

I thought maybe JJP had made a production revision to make the board actually USEFUL when playing. Angled is the way to go, but if you do, you need a clear plastic to prevent airballs from getting stuck behind the now-angled sign.

#678 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

interesting. I played many games with it and never had an issue with airballs.

We had a ton of airballs off the post to the right of the phone hole until the machine calmed down.

#688 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - does your game have any rubber protection on the left inlane middle post? The left inlane has a rubber on the post to the left but the middle post that is in b/w - any rubber expected to go on that one?

Nope. It won't play right if you add one to it.

#700 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Ok I can see that but won't the metal on metal scratch the ball?

Ball trough is metal on metal, switches are metal on metal, there are a number of metal on metal points in a pin. That one isn't going to matter. Stern does those lane guides, too.

#734 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Question for owners. I'm considering buying a LE, but wondered about the following:
1) Does the game have depth?
2) Does it have an achievable wizard mode (unlike LOTR and TSPP)?
3) What is the build quality like?
4) Is it a family friendly game in respect to gameplay?
5) I notice that you can opt for a playfield protector. Is this Cliffy's?
Thanks

1. Yes, but not as much as WoZ.
2. Two, actually. Armageddon, where you do the disasters but don't collect all the SIM cards, and Showdown, where you have finished all disasters and collected all SIM cards. Armageddon is achievable within the first few weeks if you play a lot and are a reasonable player. Showdown is MUCH harder and more of a long-term goal.
3. Build quality is the best out there right now.
4. Yes.
5. Not sure if you're talking about the full playfield mylar protector (which I think is overkill and ruins the look of the PF after a short time), or the hole protectors for the SIM and Phone holes. JJP is supplying protectors for the two holes now, but I and others still feel the Cliffys are better.

#736 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Do the games now come with the hole protectors installed?
I don't see Dialed In protectors on Cliffy's site. What does his set include?

The CE are shipping with them, pretty sure they're rolling their protectors out to all of them now.

Cliff's set comes with SIM hole, phone hole, shooter lane, and two rollover protectors, though I think you can just ask for the hole protectors by themselves.

#738 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Yes, installed at the factory. Cliffy has been way behind on DI sets owing to the huge demand. He has a $100 or so full set with a tee shirt, inlane protectors for ball drops, both scoops and shooter lane. Just email Cliff directly and he'll take your order that way, but the factory now has both scoops covered.

Cliff's sets include T-shirts? I never got one!

#766 1 year ago
Quoted from brucipher:

If you buy one of the more recently produced games, they come with two scoop protectors installed at the factory. Granted, they are JJP protectors and not Cliffy protectors.

The JJP ones strangely do not cover the back of the SIM card hole, which gets the crap bashed out of it from hard shots from the upper right flipper.

#770 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - I need to trim a little off of the phone scoop cliffy. I realized it's grazing the ball upon exit. I've already turned the part that was catching up and it shoots fine and offers perfect protection. What is the best thing to trim/cut this extra metal off? I tried normal scissors but not strong enough. Need a small but strong precision pair. Any recs?
btw - cliffy on my GB also caused some air balls so I ended up taking them off.....

I'd leave it alone. The ball action will bash the protector into the perfect shape after a few weeks of playing.

#790 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Anyone having ball trough issues? Switch 6 (trough jam) intermittently shows as closed (when there's nothing there), and keeps kicking balls out mid game.

Sounds like a loose connection on the opto board or a cold solder joint. Put it in switch test mode and wiggle the opto connector to see if it's intermittent then. If so, spread the pins a little and see if that makes it stay put better.

#794 1 year ago
Quoted from branlon8:

well duh, but the jjp homepage makes kind of a secret about it. The guys who will help me carry it downstairs want to know if and how much heavier it is than say bsd.

Probably about 300 pounds. Just a little lighter than WoZ.

#803 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I’ve had the heavy duty Mylar that is on the magnets - not surrounding - peel up for both magnets. Anybody else seeing this? JJP support is awesome as always and is sending me new mylar. (Thanks Steve Z.!)

There shouldn't be mylar ON the magnet cores, just AROUND them. No idea why JJP did this - they always will do this if you cover the cores with mylar. I just trimmed around with an xacto knife. Problem solved.

Note that removing the mylar from just the metal core part changed the machine a little on the one here. The drone one is more "grabby" (which is actually pretty nice) and the theatre had to have the timing adjusted for the throwback by -20 to work properly.

#908 1 year ago

Is anyone else's station stickers peeling off? The one on the side of the one here is spontaneously curling off the station.

#915 1 year ago
Quoted from aeonblack:

First day with the game and I already broke a million! Feels absolutely crazy on a jjp game, I was just on a real heater. I really enjoy how completing shots and modes, collecting sim cards (basically, completing things instead of just starting them), can net you huge points. Throw in some multiballs and crazy modes/bonuses, along with skill shots and super skill shots, and you can really get going.
Does anyone have any strategies for which skill shot to go for? I've been going for big points the first ball and then just trying random ones in second and third ball.

Multiplier skill shot, then hit the double skill shot. Then don't lose that ball and collect a lot of sim cards.

#921 1 year ago
Quoted from Zampinator:

I never go for the super skill shot, unless I have already lit "Big Bang". Use that upper flipper to light "Big Bang", then start a mode & shoot the "Big Bang" target. This auto completes the mode, awards all the points, & lights Sim Card. This is the best way to try & blow up this pin up.
It's all about completing modes & collecting those super valuable Sim Cards. The Big Bang target allows us to do it with less shots made.
I've owned this pin for 2.5 weeks, I have 300 plays on it, & we as a family are absolutely loving it. It has fun for all levels of pinball players, including new ones! It's a pure gem!
Thanks JJP & PLD!

Why wouldn't you go for the super skill shot as the ball comes down from the skill shot you made? It doesn't affect big bang or anything except you get more score.

#953 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

I know it's been said already,but what is the best setting for the theatre magnet?

Varies, machine to machine, but somewhere around -90 is a good start.

#964 1 year ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

How do you know its set correctly?

Trial and error. It should release the ball a little then quickly pull it back, swinging it around to the right upper flipper. Start at -90 and try it, then adjust -10 until you get to the point it does it reliably. I will say that removing the mylar from the magnet core in the center of that mylar also required me to re-adjust the pull time, too.

#975 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Its nuts ...trust me.... lots of new lighting effects in the game also.

Are any of the known bugs on the list addressed?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-113-bugs-and-features

#996 1 year ago
Quoted from jwilson:

Anyone got a solution for the ball getting stuck on the skill shot switch? I made sure it's not dragging on the side of the switch hole but light shots are still getting stopped by the switch.

Adjust it down (bend the wire back so it is less vertical) and test. I had to adjust back and also bend it side to side so it wasn't touching the sides of the slot. Took a few hours of play, adjust, play, adjust, etc before it worked 100%, but it's been perfect since I got it dialed in. This really should have been an opto.

#1017 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Is Armageddon the final wizard mode?
I see a lot of people have made it to this... is the game quite shallow? How many modes/ disasters are there?
Don't know if I should get a DI or wait and see what a GOTG is like.

Armageddon is the "booby prize" ending. Not so hard to do. Showdown is the real ending and is hard to get to and hard to finish (I've not finished it yet).

The game is on the shallow side with 1.13, but it sounds like 1.46 code has already begun addressing issues of depth. I feel like Dialed In is another WoZ, building from a base.

#1021 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Man your game must be set up on the easy side?..... put the magnets on med and take all the easy eb away and ajust the kickback harder znd its not a easy game at all. My ball and game tines on di are around the same as my afm and bsd .... factory settings on 1.13 are way to easy imo. Wait till the new code is available as factory settings seem to be much more difficult.

Factory settings except more magnets and most of the EBs off. One EB max per game. I've been playing it since May, so headstart over most.

#1026 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Tilt? Also the kickback settings are very easy on 1.13 factory....this is changed on the new code. Not sure what else changed but the 1.46 is much more difficult and has been totally kicking my ass lol. Most of it tho is probably bc i suck lol

Tilt is what I would call average, but it's set to per ball, not per game (which is retarded, IMO). I get warnings all the time.

#1080 1 year ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Well shoot the JJP phone scoop protector is starting to bum me out as it has really made the shot much more difficult. I played a bunch of games last night and am getting more frustrated with the rejected shots as I could hit the phone scoop at will without the protector. Any feedback on the Cliffy phone scoop protector, does it also make the shot very difficult to make?

It is initially a little harder to make, but within about 20-30 plays the ball beats it into the right shape and it's good. Cliffy's are WAY thinner than JJPs.

#1090 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Imo they used to small of a rubber on them (2in)i believe ....i changed mine out with 2.5 and they are much better.

Note that this may cause the left inlane to catch the ball since the rubber will not be stretched as far and therefore be "fatter".

#1097 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

I haven't had that happen at all since putting 2.5 ones on.

It's a *tiny* catch, probably 1/64". Your adjacent post may be far enough over on your machine that it doesn't become an issue.

#1193 1 year ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Party is on...dialed in is not... Game won't detect that there are 5 balls in the through. Now it keep sspeewing balls out. I've reset the connectors and nothing. Suggestions would be appreciated. Also note that in the test the switches show green as in ok.

Too many balls in the machine?

Is it continuously kicking all the balls out, or kicking out two at a time?

#1200 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Open a ticket at jerseyjackpinball.com under Support.
I'm sorry I don't have a better answer, my suspicion is the 06 transmitter or receiver failed.
LTG : )

Might just be a broken wire, though. I'd visually inspect and wiggle connectors for that while in switch mode to see if it toggles.

#1251 1 year ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Of course during my high score game

That's a weird ball trap. Ours has had that happen there a handful of times, too, usually as it dumps off the mini playfield.

#1264 1 year ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

Let’s talk monkey wrench multiball. Of about the 50 games I’ve played, I’ve only seen the mode once, and thought it was great. Trying to time the left loop to sneak balls by the diverter was a blast. Can anyone tell me what triggers this mode?

Light B-O-B targets to light Quick Multiball on the sign, then hit the left orbit, then hope the one you get (of 3 possible) is the Monkey Wrench multiball.

#1391 1 year ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

My tilt bob stopped registering entirely. I've never had this happen on any game I've owned. Connections seem fine. This happen to anyone else?

If it's like the other people with this issue it's a connection issue at the actual tilt mechanism. Check tightness of all screws and continuity from the tilt ring back to the wire leaving the mechanism.

#1392 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Just installed my cliffy protectors, replacing the JJP ones. Was getting so many rejects from both scoops with the JJP ones on, that the game was almost unplayable. The Cliffy ones are perfect - almost as good as without any. No rejects at all now.
Also, when I replaced the sim scoop protector, I replaced the white rubbers with much smaller ones. The hole is still hard to hit off the top Flipper, but no where near as hard as it was.

The cliffy's are definitely better. I don't know why JJP went with such thick metal that stands up off the playfield.

Note that on the phone cliffy, if you have the one that follows the bevel and then down inside, the ball hitting the seam where the metal bends down may cause it to "rise" away from the wall of the scoop. If this happens, it will need to be re-bent.

#1408 1 year ago
Quoted from woody76:

Cliffy sim card protector is much better than jjp, but both cliffy and jjp phone protectors need help. Finally settled with cliffy phone protector with modifications. Everything good now.

I believe Cliff has already modified his phone protector. New design is much better.

#1409 1 year ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

Facial recognition of a person is a pretty big ask. I'm relatively certain Facebook and Apple have huge server farms that handle that for them.
Anyway, we will eventually pre-populate the high score initials from the name in the phone app profile. Everything in due time.

Do you plan to send player selfies to the app if it's connected so people can keep their playing selfies?

#1412 1 year ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

Anyone have an alternate download for new code? JJP website say 6-8 hours to download.

Wow, that's not right. What speed of connection are you on?

#1414 1 year ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

Just did a speedtest, 100mbit. Something bad is happening on their servers, can anyone else try now and see if they get reasonable speed?

If you can't work it out, PM me and I'll put it on my server for you to download and give you a link.

#1416 1 year ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

Just did a speedtest, 100mbit. Something bad is happening on their servers, can anyone else try now and see if they get reasonable speed?

Try a traceroute, not a speed test. It may be you have bad routing.

https://www.ultratools.com/tools/traceRoute and enter 159.203.76.48 for the host name and 64 as max hops

On the readout, none of the segments should be much over 50ms. Most should be 20 or less.

#1418 1 year ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

Hmm. Yeah a bad hop could have made sense. This looks ok though. I tried to redownload and same issue.
Pinging 159.203.76.48 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=85ms TTL=53
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=87ms TTL=53
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=93ms TTL=53
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=87ms TTL=53
Ping statistics for 159.203.76.48:
Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 85ms, Maximum = 93ms, Average = 88ms
C:\Users\Claire>tracert 159.203.76.48
Tracing route to 159.203.76.48 over a maximum of 30 hops
1 14 ms 7 ms 5 ms 192.168.0.1
2 28 ms 55 ms 29 ms 10.93.0.1
3 18 ms 17 ms 19 ms 173-212-126-145.eastlink.ca [173.212.126.145]
4 17 ms 29 ms 40 ms ns-hlfx-dr001.ns.eastlink.ca [24.222.227.77]
5 17 ms 16 ms 170 ms ns-hlfx-br001.ns.eastlink.ca [24.215.101.221]
6 73 ms 69 ms 69 ms toro-b1-link.telia.net [62.115.42.69]
7 76 ms 93 ms 74 ms motl-b1-link.telia.net [62.115.134.49]
8 87 ms 87 ms 81 ms nyk-bb4-link.telia.net [62.115.134.52]
9 82 ms 93 ms 179 ms nyk-b3-link.telia.net [62.115.139.151]
10 82 ms 78 ms 79 ms digitalocean-ic-306497-nyk-b3.c.telia.net [62.115.45.6]
11 * * * Request timed out.
12 92 ms 88 ms 88 ms 159.203.76.48
Trace complete.

There's a few really bad segments there and some overall really crappy times, but it shouldn't cause 6-8 hours for a 3 gig file.

If you can't work it out, PM me and I'll upload then send you a link.

#1420 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

I run it, but "Status Diverter Position" doesn't light up or show anything. It just keeps going up and down as I hold down ENTER.

Sounds like the leaf switch isn't making contact with the oblong wheel that trips it on each revolution, or the blade fell off. I'd look under the playfield and physically watch it make a cycle.

#1422 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Not sure if this will provide anything, but here is a photo:

First, in that test mode, if you manually trigger that switch with the roller does it show up as activated? If yes, continue. If no, check the wiring or replace the switch.

Then when you run the test and the off-center barrel on top is rotated around so the "fat" part is pointing down, is it making contact with the switch with the roller on it? If no, adjust so it is. If yes and it's still not triggering, loosen the lower screw and angle the switch up so it triggers when the barrel is in the "down" part of the rotation.

#1444 1 year ago
Quoted from andre060:

To everyone who has the game with JJP protectors installed: GET THE CLIFFY'S. This afternoon I took the JJP protectors out and installed the Cliffy ones - they are SO much thinner and play better, especially for the SIM shot. On my game at least the SIM shot was un-makable with the JJP protector except from a random bounce-in - a direct shot would ALWAYS get deflected away by the protector.
Top score before today, a few hundred games in since I got the game a couple weeks ago: 750k
Top score today, about 5 or so games after installing the Cliffy's: 2.9M. Collected 4 sim cards, boom!

Completely agree. JJP has rocks in their heads to try to reinvent the wheel when they have far less experience with protectors and the better solution has always been there for them for the asking.

#1451 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

So I pulled the pf up, and took a look. Seems the wheel wasn't pressing down on the switch enough to make contact. All I did was move it around with my hand a little, and it started making contact. Played a few games, and seems to be working, but I suspect this problem will reoccur. The part that looks like a leg leveller seem to only be able to adjust the diverter on top, but what adjustments could be made to ensure the switch always gets enough contact to press in that little green button? The rotating wheel doesn't seem to be adjustable, so it would maybe come down to pulling out that switch and attaching something thin on it that would close the gap that there seems to be between the wheel and the switch. Any thoughts on this?
I'm also now getting an error on coil #36, showing that the trap door is "broken".

You can bend the leaf switch blade that has the roller up just a little bit so it makes contact easier. You can also loosen the two screws on the switch then angle the switch upward and re-tighten. It shouldn't take much of either to get it to work reliably.

The trap door is probably the issue that's been discussed a number of times in this thread. Read back a few pages on how to fine-tune that device.

#1480 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Start game. Hold left flipper button in at the same time hold left flipper button on your screen, until they link.
LTG : )

Do you still need to hold the buttons with the new updated app and 1.50 pin software?

#1493 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

So, put a list together of things that aren't working on my machine, and what I need to get it done. Cliffy's should be here tomorrow, and will get everything running as it was meant to be.
A little confused about what to do with the mylar on the magnets. Some people suggest cutting around the magnet on the top and others from the bottom of the pf.
I'm assuming the objective is to get the mylar. off the magnet itself and leave the rest that covers the area around it?
I know when I take that mylar off I'm going to be left with all types of residue on the magnet. How do I get the residue off without affecting the rest of the mylar? If I were to use something like Goo Gone, anything that got to the edges around the magnet could be affected.
Any suggestions?

If it hasn't been on there that long, you may not have much residue on the magnet core and can roll it up with your fingers. Otherwise, a little goo gone will be fine.

I just carefully cut around the core at the edge between it and the playfield to get it off here. Worked fine.

#1502 1 year ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

I thought I heard somewhere that hitting QED more times before getting the ball in the phone would increase scoring....did I imagine that?

"Overcharging" the phone, yes.

#1508 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Can anyone advise on where to buy Cliffy protectors for Dialed In? My phone scoop is already starting to get funky. I can't seem to find them anywhere on the cliffy passion for pinball website.

You have to email him directly.

#1513 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

Thanks, but I don't see the protectors anywhere on the JJP website...?

You have to make a JJP support request to get them (although they sent one set to me without that, this is the preferred way). But yeah, they're too thick and the cliffys are much better, so that's the best choice.

#1516 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Contacted JJP a week ago about the many issues I'm having with my game, and haven't received a reply at all from them. If this is how they treat customers, it will absolutely be my last purchase with them.
On a side note, I've had only amazing experiences with CGC

Phone or online? Their phone support is fantastic. Their support ticket system, not so much.

#1519 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Online. Right out of the box, my diverter was working, B.O.B scoop not closing, wireform does not hold ball and instead hops over into drain, phone scoop ejecting balls super fast one shot, then super slow down the middle the next, two snapped rubbers, the pf is so tight to the cab, that put it back into the the resting position almost takes force that feels like you're going to chipped off the edge of the wood, and of course, those annoying metal protectors that rejects shots more than they protect anything.
I've bought three games NIB, and I've had issues with all unfortunately. I think I have shitty luck with pins. But CGC was so quick to provide support, that I got things up and running quickly. Pretty disappointed with all the issues I have to now work through to get this game running after paying as much as I did!

Most of those issues are easy tweaks that have been detailed here, but yeah, I'd try their phone support. Much better than online in my experience. I just put the revised cliffy on the phone scoop and it's night and day compared to the JJP one I tried out. That will absolutely solve your ball reject problems.

#1520 1 year ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Do people prefer the cliffy protectors or the default ones that comes on the game? Any difference between both?

Huge difference. The cliffys are much thinner and take up less of the holes so less ball rejects. His experience shines through in the design. I haven't seen a single owner recommend the JJP one yet.

#1524 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

My phone kickout appears to be less powerful too. Upped the coil power to 21.
I’m getting a few SDTM from the phone kickout.. anyone else have this issue?

Yes, but I couldn't figure out if it's a 1.50 thing or the machine passing the break-in period.

#1525 1 year ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Dialed inn power blades by joe at pingraffix video doesn’t justify but you get the point » YouTube video

Seems weird because UFOs are a small part of what Dialed In is about.

#1538 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhacker71:

Where Can I get cliffys for dialed in. His website doesn’t have them listed. Do I ask for kick out protectors or a entire set for the game? Haven’t gotten mine yet, just want to be ready.

Email crinear@comcast.net and ask for a set of Dialed In protectors. He'll send you a paypal invoice.

#1546 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

You want the phone scoop, sim hole and two inlane switch protectors plus the shooter lane. You don’t need the skill shot protector, I got too many ball hang ups with it on and took it off.

Yeah, that skill shot switch type and design is a disaster. Putting a protector in there too is not advised.

#1548 1 year ago
Quoted from jwilson:

I wouldn't call it a "disaster". All you need to do is bend the wire back slightly. That's it. Works 100% with the Cliffy in place for me - it's not the protector holding the ball, it's the wire being too high.
You should dial back the hyperbole - look at how people like Frolic react when people blow problems up out of proportion.

It was a disaster on the one we had, no hyperbole. Literally a week of tweaking and bending before we could get it to reliably register 100% of the time without hanging the ball up and triggering ball search sometimes. Once I got it dialed in, it's been rock solid, but it's a dumb design choice that should have been an opto or something, especially with how tight things are mechanically under the PF in that area.

#1609 1 year ago
Quoted from pinhacker71:

How do you guys remove Mylar ove magnet at theater. I’ve removed drone but reaching theater is a pain. Do I have to remove theater to access.

I used a very sharp x-acto with a long handle and took my time. Was able to do it without removing theatre.

#1610 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I agree. I have both sets of protectors and I'm only using 1 cliffy (v2) on the phone scoop. Seems like the SIM shot wouldn't take as much abuse (since it's not a VUK). The phone scoop is a tad more difficult, but not a big deal.
snaroff

SIM hole is the one that has clear cracking and playfield chipping on a number of machines. It's more fragile than the phone scoop. I wouldn't leave it unprotected.

#1613 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Whoa! How'd you pull that off? Did you cut from underneath the pf? I'm about to do mine soon, so I'm curious to know.
I'm guessing there is a slight gap that you can get the blade into between the pf and magnet? Did you have to adjust the magnet after to make it flush with the pf? And did you have residue to remove?

I just cut it from an angle, but I didn't do it in one motion. The back was the worst part. I had a tiny bit of residue to remove. It did change the throw of the magnet, for some reason, but a little adjustment and it was fine (until 1.50, but I think that's a software issue).

This is the x-acto kit I use:
amazon.com link »

#1620 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Wish I would have had your advice earlier. The damage below happened yesterday evening. Game has 76 plays...manufactured 5 months ago. So sad. Since the phone scoop has a VUK, it makes no sense the SIM hole is more fragile. I've owned many Stern & B/W pins and have never had anything like this happen. Considering the difficulty of installing the SIM protector, I was planning on doing it after 100 plays (I typically do a mini-shop job every 100 plays). The design of this hole must be flawed in some way, especially if it's happening to a number of machines. My KISS Premium has hundreds of plays and no protection and there is almost no damage (since even thin Cliffies make the shot impossible given the size of the hole). And it's a VUK!
Considering the situation, it's unfortunate that JJP didn't release a strongly worded bulletin that emphasized the fragility of the SIM hole and urgency to install the protectors. If they did, I didn't get the message unfortunately. Don't know how many machines they shipped without protectors...mine is LE #96. For every other pin I've owned, damage to unprotected holes/VUKS was much more gradual/incremental. Sigh. I love this machine and feel awful.

This is why mylar won't help. It has to be covered with metal, and Cliffy has the best design for both holes.

#1621 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Unfortunately, the damage is larger than the surface area covered by the Cliffy. Looks like the JJP protector was designed to cover more surface area. If they designed these AFTER having customer damage & complaints, I guess it makes sense that they are on the hefty side.
Considering the technology/cost/craftsmanship, it's kind of shocking there isn't consensus on how to design a hole without tearing up a playfield!

Pat is mostly from the era before playfield clearcoat started sucking because of environmental ingredient bans.

The JJP ones cover a little more surface area, but they're thicker (not good) and don't cover as much of the inside area of the SIM hole as the Cliffys (also not good).

#1623 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I don't buy that logic. Stern clearcoat have to deal with the same "environmental ingredient bans" and I've owned plenty of their pins with MANY plays. None have ever chipped in this fashion. The hole design is badly flawed if many PF's are being damaged with so few plays. Not trying to get into a Stern vs. JJP argument, just reminding you that this damage is highly unusual. This type of damage after 4 months and 76 plays is manufacturer defect...plain and simple. Has nothing to do with the chemical composition of clear!

Not that unusual for any of the manufacturers now. MMr playfields have had the same thing, as have all recent Sterns except Aerosmith (to my knowledge). Also, isn't JJP having all theirs made by Mirco now, which is Germany (which has even tighter environmental regulations)?

#1626 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Some pics of afmr (before stock protector) and mmr....

Bingo. Similar MMr pics and recent Stern chipping pics out there, too.

#1637 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Installed a Cliffy this morning - now I can continue to play and enjoy my game without abusing the SIM hole. The JJP protectors would have covered the last 5% of the damage, however are too thick and would likely make the shot more difficult (based on Pinsider feedback).

Agree. +1 to JJP for getting protectors out there eventually, but why do it from scratch when what they have is inferior to what's already available? Why reinvent the wheel, but not as good?

#1640 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Interesting...thanks for the info! Dialed In is my first JJP and I have 0 experience with CGC products. I have an AFMr on order and now I'm wondering if it's the right idea.
You also confirmed my experience with Stern pins...never had any chipping. I've owned many B/W high-end restores (AFM, TOTAN, CC, MM) and never had ANY chipping. The Dialed In clear looks thick/gorgeous, and I guess I thought that translating into durable.
Hard for me to see how the damage below after 76 games is purely a CC issue. The artwork and top layer of plywood are missing. Maybe the wood is also much softer than the products I've had in the past? Design issue or not, if JJP/CGC are using PF's that damage this easily, they are responsible for doing whatever they can to product the critical sections of the PF. Stern and B/W represent the majority of modern pinball machines and their PF's don't shatter soon after taking them out of the box. Anyone who thinks this is normal hasn't been collecting that long...
snaroff

A guy that paints for a living said (about this on another machine, maybe WoZ?) that he felt the surface wasn't prepped right and the paint didn't grab the wood as it should as a result, then putting thick clear on it made it more brittle added to the problem. I'm paraphrasing, but that was his general opinion. Crazy Mirco/JJP haven't worked it out yet after all these machines made. They have it the worst in this area between CGC/Stern/JJP.

#1660 1 year ago
Quoted from DrStarkweather:

So is 1.50 no good? My DI-LE gets delivered tomorrow and I need to decide if I should upgrade it. Dont want a brand new game and then get frustrated that its not working.

Install 1.5 if yours doesn't come with it. It's better than 1.13.

#1664 1 year ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

Switch 60 "lock ramp enter" is stuck closed on my game. Anybody know which switch this is? Doesn't seem to be affecting game play...

Probably a switch on the ramp that leads to the station lock. I'd go into switch test mode and trip them one at a time until you find it.

#1665 1 year ago

Is there an option to clear photos without clearing high scores on 1.5?

#1677 1 year ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

I’m going to be putting some quality time on a route DI this weekend. Can anyone recommend a (fairly) simple approach to the game to have the most fun, get the most out of it and - to a lesser degree - score the best?
Thanks!

First time playing, I wouldn't worry about collecting SIM cards. Just try to keep starting disasters (QED electricity guy until phone charges up, then hit phone) - you don't have to finish them, to get to enough to see Armageddon. THEN you can play it "right" by trying to finish disasters and collect SIM cards.

#1743 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Based on Ted's comments in this thread, it doesn't appear the software is doing anything special (https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/jersey-jack-pinball-woz/F_TTrGjIixo).
snaroff

Maybe as a side effect, but SOMETHING changed in 1.5. No problems here with 1.13 and it whipped the ball around reliably. After the 1.5 upgrade, it almost never does now.

#1745 1 year ago
Quoted from Blakester:

Skill shot is not registering after the plunge—any advice?

Adjust, adjust, adjust. That switch setup for that shot was a mistake - it should have been an opto. Nothing but a headache until you get it adjusted *just right* so it registers every time and doesn't hold a too-slow ball without registering, sending the machine into ball search. Took me a week of on and off tweaking and testing, but once I got it right, it's been fine since June - no more issues.

#1747 1 year ago
Quoted from Blakester:

Quoted from Blakester:
Skill shot is not registering after the plunge—any advice?
Adjust, adjust, adjust. That switch setup for that shot was a mistake - it should have been an opto. Nothing but a headache until you get it adjusted *just right* so it registers every time and doesn't hold a too-slow ball without registering, sending the machine into ball search. Took me a week of on and off tweaking and testing, but once I got it right, it's been fine since June - no more issues.
If the skill shot kicker switch is working, what else could cause you not to get the bonus?

Glass off. Switch test mode. Roll a ball slowly into the skill shot. Does it trigger the switch?

#1749 1 year ago
Quoted from jwilson:

That's nonsense. First off, pinball has been using that type of switch setup for 60-plus years just fine. Secondly, there's no room for optos up there.
I think I'll give Pat the benefit of the doubt that he knows what he's doing.

Not nonsense. An opto wouldn't have been much worse of a fit than the wire switch that's there now (look how tight it is underneath the PF), and it would have been less trouble out of the box. Pat is brilliant, but he's not batting 1.000. Pretending he can do no wrong helps no one. He makes obvious mistakes, like the stupid headphone jack relocation at your knees on Dialed In that makes no sense and the thick hole protectors that are not better than what was already available. If no one tells him those were a miss, he'll keep doing it thinking he's on the right track, which in certain cases, he's not.

#1752 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Theres no room for optos on the topside in that area unfortunately bc of the way its designed.... the way it is is the way it had to be.

I'll look at it again, but I'm pretty sure when I spent a week on and off adjusting it so it worked every time perfectly I checked to see if there was room for optos, and there was a way. What's there now sucks. Fine once you get it adjusted, but adjusting initially is a PAIN.

#1754 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

I believe tz rocket switch and fh skill shot use the same set up also.... so there must be another reason on top of not much room topside . My machine has been great so far after 800 games. The left side wall of the skill shot is also the right side of the theater wall ...so no way to put a opto on that side unfortunately.

Still pretty sure opto would work, but if not that, then a proximity sensor. Anything but the crappy switch type in there now that was a terrible choice.

#1761 1 year ago
Quoted from jwilson:

Optos need to be ABOVE the playfield in the path of the ball. There's no room there. Also, you completely ignored the fact that switches like that have been used for decades. Also there's the fact that it WORKS JUST FINE when you adjust the switch. It's like you have some sort of blindness on a subject and cannot adjust your thinking ever.

I know how optos work.

If multiple people are having problems out of the box (and they are), it's not "just fine". I remotely helped another new owner spend over an hour adjusting it until it worked yesterday. This is not a one off problem. It's a crappy switch choice. We had rotary dial phones at one time. They were used for decades and WORKED JUST FINE. Should we go back to them?

And even if there's no room for an opto, there are other solutions like proximity sensors. Anything but that crap switch.

Quoted from jwilson:

It makes perfect sense because that's the only place it would fit. They took it off the door to save the outrageous cost of the custom door and also make room for the bill validator. The power box is in the way on the other side, it can't go under the shooter rod because then the cord interferes with the shooter, and the lockdown bar mech blocks it higher up.
Do you think these guys are just blindly putting things places and shrugging?

Funny, that's what Jack did when I asked about the weird placement in person. Literally shrugged and said Pat wanted it there. It's not the only solution for placement, and having done plenty of custom overseas manufacture myself, I sincerely doubt the cost at quantity for that WoZ door was "outrageous."

1 week later
#1873 1 year ago

At least they're getting finished! In the 1.13 thread the initial response about the non-animated ones was "as designed" which was concerning since it so obviously was unfinished. It's been confirmed that they will all be animated, which is good enough for me.

#1882 1 year ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Anyone have a link to a proven USB stick that works with JJP? Even though the file is under 4gb and my stick is 8gb it says it is too small. The stick is old so time for an upgrade.

Have you reformatted your stick? Maybe the FAT is damaged? Also it has to be FAT, not NTFS.

#1886 1 year ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

I'll be honest I don't know what that means. Tried to just drag the iso file onto the drive and it said it was too big, got that program JJP mentions in their instructions unetboot and the drive won't even come up in the drop down menu.

This is on a PC, right (not mac)?

What version are you trying to update to? Have you done 1.50 already? If you're dragging the 1.50 ISO to the stick, you're doing it wrong. For full updates like 1.50, you need to use ubootnetin to have it put the ISO files on the stick for you and make it bootable.

Here's the full install (ver 1.50 is a full install you have to do BEFORE the delta 1.52 update) instructions, step by step:

http://159.203.76.48/general/install-full/

#1923 1 year ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Yes I am doing a full 1.50 install and am on a Mac. I went through that instructions, and everything seemed to go well. Put the stick in the game and i started as usual, went to usb update in the menu and the game rest but was still 1.13. Went back to usb update in the menu again and it said "no update directory found! please ensure DL_UPDATE directory is located in the usb root" Everything from the original file went onto the stick through unetbootin, and I checked the info and it did say FAT. I have a new stick that LTG recommend coming soon (thanks again for the help) so will try the process with that in a day or too. I know JJP recommends 8gb+ stick and when I went to the info of mine it said the capacity was just 7.6gb but I don't know if that would matter.

You're not following the FULL INSTALL instructions correctly. If you had made the image using ubootnetin on the USB stick the game would not have booted, it would have booted to Linux instead and updated the game to 1.50. At this point, don't even worry about 1.52. Your main goal is to successfully do a full install with the 1.50 image and ubootnetin.

The only possible thing I can think of that may be causing this if you're doing the rest right is if the USB cable is not plugged into the computer all the way. Might want to check the connections in the head. If that's good, you're just not following instructions correctly for the full install.

Here's what a Dialed In full-install process should look like (it's distant but should let you know what the screen looks like):

#1940 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Return spring may have broke.
Here is a quick fix : Bend last loop over. Voila a new spring.
LTG : )

This brings up something happening on WoZ for me. It's destroying springs in 1-2 days on the Munchkin loop mini-flipper. I put a new flipper spring on. Come back 1-2 days later and it's non-functional. When I look at it, it's all stretched out to 3-4x its normal length with loose loops, and stressed like it's 10 years old. happened 3 times now. Any idea what could be happening?

#1942 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Something's messed up. Spring catching on something and pulled from that point ruining the spring.
LTG : )

Both ends are still connected, but the spring in-between is blown out and the metal stressed and brittle as if it had a ton of power run through it (this happens in only 1-2 days). Everything looks fine and plays okay when I change out the spring initially, though...

#1948 1 year ago
Quoted from Jpp718:

I'm having a problem with the balls coming out of the trough

Go into settings and increase the coil power for the Ball trough VUK. For some reason it's always too low on every JJP game we ever got.

#1968 1 year ago

Joined the ball trap by the drones club. This was an airball off the right side of the phone scoop that bounced up and landed here:

dialed in ball trap (resized).jpg

-1
#1970 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

- Replaced JJP phone/SIM protectors with Cliffys (WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!).
- Installed shooter lane Cliffy.

Quoted from Concretehardt:

I also have a set of Cliffys coming to replace the factory Sim & phone scoop.. can’t wait to get them!

I've literally yet to see anyone prefer the too-thick JJP protectors. It's a mystery to me why JJP tried to design something of their own that ended up worse than what was already out there, and wasted 2-3 months designing some while playfields were being damaged. I'm positive Cliff would be thrilled to work with them. Hopefully they at least talk to him for future JJP machines. It certainly would be nice to have day 1 protection on jjp Pirates.

#1974 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Does anyone happen to know what this issue may be? Everything looks fine from what I can tell.

Go to the second switch test screen (the first one isn't the "real" screen) and lift the rubber in the drone area with the leaf switch. It will probably trigger as the moved rubber lets it open up. You need to adjust the leaf switch so it's not touching when the rubber is at rest and then triggers when the rubber is depressed.

#2024 1 year ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Awesome to hear! Frank is The Man!

Frank is indeed awesome to deal with at JJP. One of the best they have.

#2044 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Has anyone had a problem with the phone scoop ejecting balls at very different speeds? For the most part, it will shoot out strongly to the right flipper, but occasionally it will come out noticeably slower and just go SDTM with absolutely no chance to save it.
Was having my best game ever last night and had this happen. Makes it hard to get deep into the game when you run the risk of losing a ball anytime that scoop goes off.
I tried bending the scoop hood down bit. Noticed the balls were ejecting faster and stronger, but after a few games it went back to the current problem.
Anyone have this happen?

If you film it in slow-mo with an iphone, you'll see it's probably hitting the bottom side of the ramp that runs across in front of it when it comes out "slow" (it was on the one here). Bending the scoop guide down is the way to prevent that, and reducing coil power is probably a good idea, too.

#2048 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

For those having issues with their phone scoop kickout, check your protector. I have a genuine cliffy on mine and I noticed the flaps were bending outward and possibly affecting the path of the ball. I removed the cliffy and bent the flaps back in and it seems pretty consistent again, no sdtm.

The Cliffy 2.0s don't have this issue. Cut the part below the bend at the bevel, file to smooth the edges and you'll have a Cliffy 2.0.

#2051 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I just bent back the flaps back, should be fine now as pic shows. If they bend out again, which I don’t expect, I’ll cut them off.

They'll keep bending out. What's happening is the ball is pounding that crease where the metal bends down, flattening it out. it takes time, but it'll happen again. That's why 2.0 doesn't have that part that goes down.

#2062 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

fyi...this is what the TNA scoop looks like (copied the photo from a TNA thread). Don't know why pinball manufacturers don't standardize on this design (beveled edges, internal metal "Mantis" style). For new games, this is the best design...protects the PF and doesn't effect the ability to make the shot.

Because it doesn't protect the clear around the hole from chipping, and clear does chip on too many of these newer PFs for whatever reason. The SURFACE of the Dialed In we have around the SIM hole was chipped within 50 plays. Mantis design that would still happen. Cliffy design it does not.

#2064 1 year ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Are you guys using the phone cliffy 2.0 or the original? He sent me a 2.0 for free (I bought a whole set months ago and a set for another game). Haven't put it in yet though, great service thank you cliffy.

Cliffy 2.0 on phone and original on SIM hole here.

#2071 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

And my SIM hold was chipped after 70 plays while waiting for the Cliffies to arrive. As far as I can tell, the SIM hole damage was caused by the sharp angles (particularly on the left & right sides of the hole). I had 0 damage where the bevels were cut. Did you have any damage on the bevels? Curious.
Since I believe the phone is beveled all around, I think it's much less prone to the crazy SIM hole damage. I just don't like the way the phone shoots with the Cliffy installed.
snaroff

Dunno. I wasn't taking a chance on more cracking/chipping.

Do you have the original or 2.0 Cliffy at the phone? The 2.0 doesn't really change the shot since the interior area is the same size.

#2074 1 year ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Does anyone have a picture of the 2.0 Cliffy for the phone scoop? I'm not sure which version I have.

If yours is at an angle from the edge, then bends and goes straight downward, that's 1.0. If you have just a short angled part that covers the bevel only, that's 2.0.

If you have the lower part that's labeled 1.0 in this picture, you have 1.0. You can easily make 1.0 into a 2.0 by just cutting it at the crease and filing the rough edges and corners.

cliffy2.0 (resized).jpg

#2076 1 year ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Looks like I have a v1 scoop protector.

yes. If you cut at the last bend on the three segments, it makes it a 2.0.

#2087 1 year ago
Quoted from pinball_mutha:

Does anyone leave the felt off the legs, I found it to be a bit wobbly?
Also I noticed some DI's have a small rectangle box on the top back box that acts like a camera flash, is this something that you can buy or is it supposed to come with the machine?
Thanks!

It comes with the standards meant for locations, but not the LE and CEs primarily for home use. Basically it just makes a brighter flash than the playfield lights for better selfie pics.

#2135 1 year ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Corrected position of BOB. Looks so much better.

For home this is good, but if it's on route, you need to put a plastic to the left of Station 3 exit to prevent an airball ball from getting behind the signs and being trapped.

#2217 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Am I missing something... I have hit 1 million once or twice, and you guys are blowing it up.
I feel like I'm decent at most games I play, but maybe I'm missing something on DI!

Collecting the SIM cards is the key to higher scores. Stick SIM memory on in your settings while you learn. It will increase your scores until you can do it without the SIM memory.

#2235 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Guys don't do it. Don't turn SIM memory on. It will hurt the long term playability of your game. I too thought getting all the letters was impossible. Over time it gets easier as you learn the bounces and angles, etc. So glad I didn't turn the memory on.

Meh. I'm not saying to LEAVE it that way, but if someone isn't enjoying the game, why not make it enjoyable while they learn. I have a friend that set his new Sterns to 10 balls/game because at 3 balls his games were over in less than a minute and he wasn't enjoying the games. He eventually went to 5 then ended up at 3 balls/game with a much better understanding of the games and substantially more skill. It wasn't ever going to be a permanent change or a "cheat" but a TOOL to help him learn to play the games while having FUN. Everyone is not at the same level, which is why the games have options. It's YOUR machine - set it so you have fun.

#2243 1 year ago
Quoted from jwilson:

I wonder if there’s room for Mantis style protectors to deal with the lip issue on Cliffy ones.
I’d rather play the game as intended by Pat, but I don’t want to damage my insanely expensive game!

Mantis won't protect against the chipping. There really isn't a lip issue with the Cliffys unless the ball is going REALLY slow, which almost never happens. The ideal world is one where the PF is routed with cliffys in mind so once the cliffy is on at the factory, the hole is exactly the intended size and the edge is flush with the playfield (and the clear isn't extra-brittle). We can dream.

#2257 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I unboxed my game yesterday and today for some reason the start button mech broke away and I cannot get it to snap into its holster anymore. Here's a youtube-video about the problem: » YouTube video
I submitted a ticket to JJP about it. Meanwhile, is there anything I could do to fix this?
I have a spare start button from my Monster Bash, but the parts are not interchangeable. Would it work if I replaced the whole mechanism with it (button, mech holster, bulb, switch)? There are some spikes on the start button backside though, so I would have to file them away.
Thanks for any info!

Try taking the bulb out. Sometimes if the bulb is too high, the start button won't snap together right.

#2260 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Is there a way to restart a game after the first ball is played, like on B/W games where you just hold down start?
Also, I think someone mentioned you could use Chaos in QC to help complete a mode, but not sure how since it automatically starts after completing the 6th mode.

SYSTEM SETTINGS->GENERAL->GAME RESTART

(Set it to something other than "NEVER")

#2262 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I've owned B/W pins for years and never knew about this feature. Does it have to be enabled like for DI? I'd check mine, but the herd is in another location...
snaroff

Default on B/W is on (might be set to "SLOW" meaning you have to hold start for a bit), so it should work unless the settings were changed.

#2310 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Hi!
Could somebody please provide a picture of the wire that goes into the connector on the motherboard highlighted in the picture (its a picture of the CPU-unit in the backbox and its right bottom corner).
I have had to dismantle my dialed in in order to be able to carry it downstairs and it seems that orientation of the wire connected to this connector was not documented.

That connector is keyed. If you look closely, you can see on the left side one pin is missing. That should correspond to the connector with one hole plugged. If none of the holes are plugged on the connector, look for the one that is missing a wire and that one will line up with that pin that's missing so you know you have it connected properly.

#2339 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

When the ball goes over the QED guy's rail slot, does the ball make a tiny jump in your game?
In mine it does, but it might be because of the playfield protector.

Doesn't here.

#2341 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

I noticed that. So one way to get an extra ball is to start three modes. The other way is to do combos. But how do you do that exactly?

Chain together ramp shots is the easiest way.

#2353 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Anyone curious to the exact cause I've illustrated the issue. The top (ball stopping) part of the wireform on the "bad" ones is parallel or worse slightly further toward the player than the bottom (ball dropping) part. This causes the ball to ramp upwards and go flying. I've illustrated (poorly) the part that is angled in on the newer correct wireforms, which causes the ball to immediately collapse down through the hole. You'll see on his original direct overhead shot a few posts up how the top is clearly further towards the player than the bottom. This is the manufacturing error.
Fixing this is not a matter of just bending that thin piece I'm pointing the arrow at so the top is before the bottom, since these pieces are connected at other thicker points along the way. But if you have access to tools that allow you to make this happen, you'll have fixed the issue.
On proper wireforms, the ball should NOT bounce back at all when it hits the end of the wireform, it should immediately drop down.

Since those are just spot welded, bending the end risks breaking the little vertical support.

1 week later
#2461 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Here is what the v2 Cliffy looked like installed. As you can see, the corners have a slight lift which leads to more rejects. Cliffy sent me a v3, but I haven't installed it. I prefer the way it shoots without the protection, and the hole has no damage after many plays (unlike the SIM card hole, which is very fragile).
snaroff

That usually happens when you tighten the contact points too tight. They should just be barely tight. Mine does not look like this, it lays flat.

#2463 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Perhaps, but I showed the photo to Cliffy and he didn't advise loosening the posts. If they are "barely tight", they will loosen quickly. In any event, glad yours don't have any lift!
snaroff

They won't loosen. The nuts holding them under the playfield grab well. The one here is on location with many hundreds or over a thousand plays since I put on the v2 and I haven't had to re-tighten them.

#2476 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

Hey guys! New DILE owner! My game arrived today and was built 1/15/18. The game arrived perfect and playes well. I have the factory cliffies

Are they REAL Cliffies from the factory?!! Can you take a couple pics?

#2479 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

No, not real cliffys, I have no issues making shots though. However I am sitting right now after locking a ball trying to cancel out of MB and it won’t let me....

Oh, haha, got me worked up there for a minute!

#2500 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Hi all! Just got a Dialed In Standard Edition and the start button assembly was hanging loose inside. I can't make it stick in the hole where it's supposed to be. See image where I've put it in the hole. Is there any parts missing?

You just need to twist and push a little harder so it will snap in. Start at about 11 o
clock and twist to the 12 o'clock position as you push in. When you get it, it will click.

#2506 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

My audio-connector in the front is not working - anyone with the same problem and how did you fix it?

Check the cable inside the cabinet at the front, and if that's connected, open the box in the head with the computer motherboard and make sure the audio connection is plugged in there and didn't come loose.

#2515 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

+1 Mine is not raised like that either. I get zero rejected shots. Only issue for me is the part that protects the wall of the hole. It makes it to narrow, so it effects the ball ejecting.

Sounds like you have a V1 version. The V2 does not go down into the hole, only protecting the top and beveled part. Stops those rejects. Email Cliffy.

#2571 1 year ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Mine throws the ball straight into the wireform in front of the phone eject. It hits exactly where the cross piece is welded across the rails. I wonder if that is causing damage to the balls and then playfield? Anyone else’s doing that?
I’ve turned the power right down to it but still happening.

Keep turning the phone eject power down until the ball doesn't go airborne.

#2572 1 year ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Thanks. Only had it for 24 hrs or so. Previous owner said to me that it was designed to slow down the ball. Didn’t seem correct to me.

Absolutely not correct. Lower eject power is more effective at slowing the ball properly.

#2595 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

So... this is NOT a paid advertisement :eye roll towards the haters:. Now that we got that out of the way. I wanted to share my first ever experience with Pinstadium lights. The package came well prepared and organized. I did about 10 minutes of phone help with Dialed In because it’s just a tad more complex than plug and play but easy enough for someone who has 0 mechanical ability. With that said. Here are 2 photos in 100% dark room. 1st is with 75% blue and 100% white. The second is 100% white settings. AEnjoy! This is definitely a top three mod for me now going into the future behind pdi glass and a color dmd. It looks even better in person!

What does it hook to for the power source? I saw a youtube vid where it flashes in concert with the flashers and did NOT like that, but thinking of replacing the massive number of light towers to light a WoZ for dark rooms with this instead...

#2597 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Pic of dile in dark room.... no extra lighting needed imo and its one the best out if the box lit pins ever imo. The inserts and gi can be turned up more if needed also.

Stock DILE is like the SUN compared to stock WoZ.

#2605 1 year ago
Quoted from mtp78:

How many multi balls in this game? I can only seem to get a 2 ball multi....havent seen any others yet.

You can get a 3 ball multiball with the Station, then add-a-ball from there. There's also monkey wrench and hi-voltage multiballs in the crazy modes.

#2609 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

This is literally in my dining room with no light at night. Took it on a iphone at 7pm today with black out window blinds. The photo you showed does not have a dark mid playfield like mine, so either you are lieing and not in a 100% dark room, or you edited the photo, unlike mine being straight from picture to here.

Or, he has a better camera than your iphone. That's a possibility, too. Why so accusatory? Dialed In is already pretty well-lit from the factory, but if you want more light, great. That won't be what everyone wants.

#2623 1 year ago
Quoted from estrader:

On a couple of stern machines I have lollipop rails to product the cabinet art around the flippers, what is everyone using for dialed in?

Unneeded on JJP pins.

#2628 1 year ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

I use lexan protectors around the buttons.
Nice price and works perfect.

For JJP cabinet art that's likely overkill. We have JJP pins on route and haven't had a single one with Stern-like wear from fingers around the flipper buttons. JJP seems to have a better seal on their art or something. Doesn't wear and smear like Stern around the flipper buttons.

#2648 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Here is how that piece is now being bent at the factory to prevent ball damage.

Seems like putting a blue bumper on the end would be better than bending the stainless.

#2651 1 year ago