Interesting. I'm on my second phone as well for this very issue. I've reseated my video card with no results, but I didn't consider supporting it. Post back if your issue occurs again.

JJP is sending me a new video card in hopes that it will fix the wonky color issue. Mine didn't start happening until immediately after my update to 1.50, but I was experiencing blanking on the phone. Now my phone is always yellow or blue cast and will fix if I unplug the VGA cable at the back of the phone and reseat it. It still goes black once in a while too. : (

If it happened immediately after the update, reinstall update. Also, check fuses.

Do you mean the right sling? Sounds like you may want to up the coil strength a little. I had to lower my phone eject and adjust flippers after I updated code. This machine requires tuning of both flippers, phone scoop and theatre magnet, at least on my copy. Takes very little time, and I like the control.

Did you try reinstalling the update?

I’m not sure how the fuse system works on DI as I haven’t had any reason to learn it yet. I’d just check them all, but as a previous poster said, it may not be the issue. Again, if it happened after the update, I would reinstall as my first course of action. Then I’d work backwards. What else did you touch? Did you raise the playfield? Did you adjust anything?

I received a new phone and a new graphics card for my phone not casting colours correctly (usually red does not show), but it didn't fix the issue like it did with yours. I also tried several different VGA cords. Glad to see the fix worked for you!

Definitely too low. Adjust it. I usually use a straight edge to make the flippers parallel to the guide rails, but DI has that hexagon, which makes it really easy. Adjust so that the bat is just touching that left point. Done!

Were your issues similar to mine? Mine has the wrong colours, usually more yellow than it should be because it's missing the red. Sometimes the phone blanks and returns or stays blank. I can fix this issue every time by unplugging the VGA and reseating it. After I do this, it will show correct colours etc.

This did start happening after 1.50, so I have always assumed it to be software related. I did reinstall 1.50 several times, then updated to 1.52 with no difference. Actually, after the reinstall, the phone is perfect, but once I power off the game and boot it, the colour issue is there.

As I understand, your process was to reinstall 1.50 then immediately 1.52? I could try this again.

It doesn't need that much adjusting, and it's absolutely wonderful that you can adjust coils etc. If you buy a DI, you should do the following:

- Record the factory coil adjustments when you first turn on the game. The factory adjusts the coils so that the game plays well. Take a picture of the coil strengths.
- Play the game and make sure the theatre throws the ball back with pretty good velocity when it's supposed to. If not, adjust. See other threads on this.
- Your phone eject will likely be too powerful. Lower the coil strength until the ball burps out and hits the slingshot. Then add more strength until it lands on the flipper nicely.
- Lower the power of the left flipper to save wear and tear on the phone scoop and surrounding area. Lower it until you can't make the right ramp and raise it up until you easily can with pretty good velocity. This should prevent a lot of the air balls from this flipper.
- Add some oil/grease to the underside of the arm diverter, on the flat metal surface that the oblong rotator rubs against. It is metal on metal and grinds a dust over time. A LITTLE oil/grease helps with this.
- Cut the mylar around the theatre magnet. I haven't done this yet as the ball is cutting it for me. It likely won't be as smooth this way though :\

I always expect adjustments with any machine, and I'm VERY happy that JJP has embraced this. The mylar is a pain, but the rest is great!

The issue, to me, is the old protectors, which are still in my machine. They are sharp and create pretty good scratches on the balls. Then the balls scratch the playfield near the flippers. These scratches are very, very thin and could easily be buffed away. The clear is thick, so you don't have to worry about it. Look how thin the clear is on old W/B machines. They have scratches too, but you often can't see them because of the thin clear. It's not an issue at all, but owners of pins are like pixel peeping photographers: they seek perfection where perfection is simply not possible. It's a pinball machine. The playfield will scratch and dent from the metal balls.

Authentic cliffys will help keep the balls from scratching so heavily; I'm going to contact JJP to see if they'll send me a set as I hear they are installing them now at the factory. In the end, the clear on DI is thicker and clearer, which is great.

My phone performed flawlessly until I updated to 1.50. Then it never displayed colors correctly, even when I went back to 1.32 or whatever the previous version was. I personally think it's a software issue that is only affecting certain machines.

We're talking about removing the mylar on the magnet core itself, not the surrounding playfield.

I'd say apples and oranges myself, but I agree that if you like TZ, odds are you're going to like DI.

TZ's ramps are rear central. It has a second playfield. It's magnets are utilized for specific, aimed game play. It has no side ramp. It's bumpers are close left. It's a widebody. I guess they both have orbits and a right hand scoop?

Not trying to bash; I just think they are apples to oranges. Completely different pins, but they do have that Lowler feel...

I dont' find that flipper power makes any difference with the sim shot. What makes a big difference is if you have the JJP protector on the sim shot or an authentic Cliffy. When I played a proto machine last year, it had no protector at all, and I could make the shot direct maybe 20% of the time. Mine has the JJP protector, and I make the shot direct maybe 5% of the time. I would imagine with a Cliffy it would balance somewhere in the middle at 12%. I would find this percentage acceptable, considering the value of the shot and the fact that flukes happen.

On location, this could be good, but in a home setting, I would consider it cheating. But it's your game, so what matters is how you feel about it. I haven't completed the letters, but I'm pretty confident I will when I swap for Cliffys.

This question has been addressed at least twice in this thread. A little reading will get you what you need. Enjoy the game!

Whoa, slow down there, bud. Most message boards suggest that you read posts before asking common questions, and I'm sure it's somewhere on Pinside as well. I commented "enjoy the game" to clarify that my post contained nothing but a positive tone, offering advice.

If you look at the first post, there is a list of links to much of what you're asking about. Also, I posted the following two pages back from where we are now:

See, even dicks have their good side

I've been one letter away twice. Extra ball is decently attainable with this game. Also, double banking off the two big Bang targets or single banking off the drone rubber makes the sim shot doable. I like that I've had to find difficult workarounds to get Sims. If you don't have the skills, set sim to stay lit over balls, but you will always know, deep in your soul, that you needed training wheels to finish the race.

Finishing three modes, I believe.

Just lit there I think.

Yeah, I think I lit it once when I hit the 10k left ramp 10 times. Not positive on that one though. I should learn the damn rules!

The most I've manage to get is two, so what ever the default cap is is what I use.

That's a BIG difference, a far cry from standard. I'd say that makes the game 30-40% easier.

Nice. Mine is jacked up too, but I find the standard difficulty of the rules to be great.

The orbit has an intentional incline to slow the ball down, which is very good design. You have FIVE possibilities with the left orbit: trap door gulps the ball, the incline slows it enough to settle in the skill shot (making for a strong feed to upper flipper), the incline slows it enough to settle in the pops, or you nail the shot with power and it comes around the flipper where you can shoot or let it come down to lower flippers.

It's simply not designed to be a Ritchie orbit. It is a multi-functional orbit, which suits Lawlor's style perfectly.

Interesting, my game is jacked in the back, and I have no issues with the orbit. Maybe your right flipper coil is nerfed too much in the coil settings?

That sounds similar to mine.

Adjust the magnet settings in the menu. Search for theater magnet in the forum. Tons of info on that one.

If your EOS switch is set too close, it cuts the high voltage power to the coil early. However, I'm not sure how much of an effect it has as the voltage surge already hits the coil.

LE for sure. You'll need invisaglass anyway due to the large screen. You get the ramp lights and powder coating and cool cityscape. I think it's totally worth it.

You have to figure out bank shots. I have the JJP protector on mine, and I still make the shot about 1 in 10. I bank the ball off the stand-up to the left of the theatre or double bank off the Big Bang targets. I occasionally make the direct shot as well. I think the difficulty is spot on, considering the value of sim cards.

The JJP protectors have sharp edges, so they will mangle balls early on. I tumbled the balls more often for the first while.

Scratches are normal. They are just more visible on thicker, clearer clear.

My Mylar is bubbling. Going to pull the magnet and chop it. The wear is uneven, so I wouldn't wait. You WILL have to do it.

As for Ninja balls, skip them and get a tumbler. Factory balls are fine, but the game is a little hard on the balls, like a cock tease.

If this sounds scary, consider it good training. Pinball machines need constant work, which includes removing and replacing woodscrews, diodes, coils, transistors and occasionally full mechanisms. Remember, it's a piece of plywood with pre-drilled holes. Just don't overtighten.

Watch this video.

There is an adjustment tab that JJP didn't bend into place to adjust the coil release. The video will walk you through the process of adjusting it properly.

Absolutely. I feel sorry for the company having to deal with stuff like this. Use a heat gun and fix it if you're that picky. I just used a pin to remove a couple air bubbles. No offense, but this is nit-picking to the extreme. The new decal in the mail is above and beyond great service.

That's perfectly fine, and I'm not adding any snarky tone to my posts. It's a pinball machine. Removing some dust under the sticker isn't that tough, and as you've said, the company is willing to send you a new sticker. To me, you get two tries: peel up the old, remove dust and replace, or screw that process up and apply a brand new sticker. Small production issues are typical in the world of NIB pinball. Asking for an entire apron is unacceptable in my opinion. Again, not trying to offend. Just answering your question.

Could be a bad opto. I'd check the solder on both sides. Might be a bad bulb.

Oops! Thanks!

My phone went black after playing for a while as well. From my experience and a few others, it is almost definitely your phone. Hook up a computer monitor to the VGA out and see if it happens. It likely won’t.

When lock is lit, the diverter arm goes down. It’s also used during Acid Rain mode and BOB wrench multiball.

A man should be able to get by with two balls....

Working on the same thing. I'm going to attach mine with Velcro. Easy to remove with heat. Be sure you have a powered splitter, or your phone will go dim.

Cool in theory, but it would make the game easier and base it more on luck rather than skill.

I can see this for newbs, but I disagree with nerfing the rules. The game is way more fun when there is intense pressure to score a sim and/or relight kickback. I also dislike easy add a ball rules. On location though, these would be good settings to encourage coin drop.

I just keep a note of what's going on in the sewer. If there is action under there, I shoot for jackpots. If not, I add a notch to add-a-ball. To me, it's all about knowing the game and playing to the code. I don't mind this at all.

I can't backhand either, but this makes me happy. My whirlwind has the same great limitation with the scoop. I always hated copies of TAF that allowed you to ride bear kicks with both flippers. Too easy! Be happy you can't backhand!

I just do rolling backhands and nail them pretty often.

I have DILE and IMDNLE, and DI wins on quality and bang for your buck (no pun intended) hands down. On gameplay, they are completely different machines. DI is classic lawlor smooth stop and go, while IMdn is speed and flow with difficult ramps. The loops on imdn are insanely fast and fun. One is not better than the other when it comes to gameplay, which is most important imo.

You'll likely have to adjust your coil strength on each flipper and the scoop eject after you update the code. You'll want to adjust the theatre magnet too. Aside from that, I would recommend doing the trap door adjustment tab to avoid problems later on.

Actually, here's one of my previous posts:

------------

It doesn't need that much adjusting, and it's absolutely wonderful that you can adjust coils etc. If you buy a DI, you should do the following:

- Record the factory coil adjustments when you first turn on the game. The factory adjusts the coils so that the game plays well. Take a picture of the coil strengths.
- Play the game and make sure the theatre throws the ball back with pretty good velocity when it's supposed to. If not, adjust. See other threads on this.
- Your phone eject will likely be too powerful. Lower the coil strength until the ball burps out and hits the slingshot. Then add more strength until it lands on the flipper nicely.
- Lower the power of the left flipper to save wear and tear on the phone scoop and surrounding area. Lower it until you can't make the right ramp and raise it up until you easily can with pretty good velocity. This should prevent a lot of the air balls from this flipper.
- Add some oil/grease to the underside of the arm diverter, on the flat metal surface that the oblong rotator rubs against. It is metal on metal and grinds a dust over time. A LITTLE oil/grease helps with this.
- Cut the mylar around the theatre magnet. I haven't done this yet as the ball is cutting it for me. It likely won't be as smooth this way though :\
- Adjust the tab on the trap door. There is a youtube video on this:

I always expect adjustments with any machine, and I'm VERY happy that JJP has embraced this. The mylar is a pain, but the rest is great!

I agree with you with regard to quality, but not gameplay. I have always disliked stern - at least for the last decade - but some of their games have great gameplay. LOTR and IM come to mind. I see imdn as black knight 2000 meets Ironman, and I don’t see it as just another passing stern. Elwin’s design is too damn good, even with the stern cheapness. At least the imdns have service rails, metal ramps and metal lamp brackets etc. my le has a metal lighted apron too. I actually don’t mind the latch system for the lockdown bar. For once, I have very little to complain about except maybe bang for buck.

EMP is like power Ball mode to me. Super fun but hella dangerous. Music is great, and who doesn't like a greasy pizza delivery guy?

Anita Goodman is the best!

Hip/thigh combo is faster. Live a life of danger!

My trap flap is about to die... it’s half way cracked. Seems like it may be a flawed design

Usually a day or two.

Just use blades without adhesive. No issues whatsoever.

This is one rule change I could support. Better than sim carry over.

Once I replaced my JJP protectors with Cliffies, the game became what it should be. I can now get sims with relative ease.

I had several tickets due to lack of response until I managed to have Paul get one. He combined my tickets and really took the reins to fix my phone issues. I was also sent new cliffies, a left ramp plastic to stop bounce outs and a new curved center ball guide. I now only need my trap door flap replaced, but that part is on backorder for the near future.

Unfortunately, Paul is no longer with JJP, so he referred me to either Frank or Steve.

If anyone is getting bad service at JJP, the best method is to phone them, so I've heard. I've only done email tickets, but if you think about it, phone information must be written down immediately, and it must be addressed soon, or it will be lost in the mix. Email can sit there on a computer waiting in an orderly fashion forever.

This game is far more complex than anything stern does, so it's going to have some issues. JJP still make the best machines as they allow for serviceable boards etc. These guys are a god-send. Without them, we'd only be lifting bare plafields onto service pegs to look at proprietary node boards without schematics. THANKS JACK AND CREW!!!

He just told me yesterday

Maybe Steve remembers that freedom fries thing they had going....

Selfie pervert mode? Extra points for detected genitals?

Europe has as much if not more video surveillance as most other first world countries... You're concerned about a pinball machine?

Brand New moving parts and magnets equals lots of metal dust. Two minutes with a rag and BOOM! All gone. Normal.

Anyone else get transparent vertical lines moving across the phone screen at times? They aren't very visible and seem to come and go on mine.

No need to power off. It's a VGA signal direct to PC. It will auto detect any changes and reset the signal. Before I recieved a new fixed phone, I had to reset the signal after Boot up all the time.

Does JJP post updates about dialed in like they do with jjpotc? It would be nice to know a ballpark of when the next DI update is slated for release.

I just turned the key with a lot of force and it opened. The latch is catching on the plastic at the top of the back glass. I just lightly oiled the plastic and now it works fine.

Hmmm. New one to me. What makes it different than 90% of other MB’s in other games? I think there should be an Uber jackpot to build up to I guess. Also, you want to start modes in mb?? Eliminate it?

Ah, I get what you mean now. As others have suggested, turning off the BOB lock would likely help with your issue. I get it too, but I find that it is good if you just start a mode, finish the mode, start MB (BOB lock is good here as it helps) and get the SIM associated with the mode you finished/banged. I do think there should be more of a goal in MB, like after collecting all lit jackpots, a super uber Jackpot lights on the side ramp. It would be good if no other jackpots are available until the uber is collected. Repeat, and a super uber lights etc.

Well, I finally got my phone and topper (a modded mini-monitor) working properly. After three phones, I finally got one that worked. Hooked up the topper, and I found out that VGA signals cannot be split properly without a powered splitter. Then I found out that JJP did not use a properly shielded VGA cable. So I replaced the cable, ordered a cheap Chinese powered splitter and BANG! I have a functional topper with no RF interference and a bright signal.

Anita Goodman looks great on the big screen!
Dialed in Topper
Up close topper. Powered by 12v system in backbox
Dialed in Topper
VGA splitter in backbox. Powered by 5v USB from the DI PC
VGA splitter

Do all of you have a PF that is difficult to seat into the cabinet? I contacted support ages ago about this, and they said that it was an acceptable fix to some sort of geometry issue they had. I find it very annoying as it's tough to push my pf into the cab - really tough. I have an early run game, so I'm wondering if it's a rarity?

Thanks for the tip! I don't know why I never thought of using the rails.

I added an extension USB cable and moved the Bluetooth dongle to the upper part of the coin mech. This helped, but it still lags now and then. The first version of the app worked flawlessly for me. Bummer that they changed it.

I finally set my Sim to stay lit after drains. Okay, I admit that the game gets 20% better with this small adjustment. My apologies to all the pus.. I mean people that I called pussies.

I have most of my other pins jacked up and set to maximum difficulty, so I strive for a healthy challenge in a home environment, but dialed in was frustrating me. I was able to finish all the modes once in a while, especially after installing real Cliffy's, but the furthest I made it on Sims was DIALED, and this only happened once. Usually I get about 3 Sims per game with stock settings. Out of a goal of eight, it's pretty brutal, and I consider myself a good player. Once I turned on sim memory and switched tilt to be 2 warnings per ball like all other modern pins, the game has opened up and feels like my other pins, difficulty-wise.
I am adamantly against nerfing collection games as you can play them till you die, but there are firsts for everything. These nerfed settings should be stock.

Real Cliffy's allow it to happen more often. Myself, I'd rather it did not happen at all as I like my games tougher rather than easier.

Yeah, roll over to right flipper to keep nailing it. Ten ramps I think tops it out. I've done it twice. 130000 or something. Worth it and fun.

It's the adjustable coils that make the flippers feel different. The ability to adjust is worth it. My right coil is weaker than my left, for example. Takes about a ball to get accustomed after playing a stern. W/b seem to be closer in feel, but still consistent and therefore different.

Game geometry and adjustable coils are going to make JJP games feel different. That doesn't mean there is an issue with the coils or flippers or that they are underpowered. In my experience, W/B and Stern games tuned the same feel pretty close to the same aside from occasional geometrical differences. JJP added so many possible adjustments that games are rarely going to feel the same. When I adjust a flipper, it makes a big difference in the gameplay. In my opinion, this is not an issue; it is a welcomed change. I've played other DI copies and just have to spend a few minutes getting used to the setup. No big deal. Now get back to looking up Anita Goodman's skirt.

Anybody know if they've stated that this is the final code update? I know the manuals just went out, but I'm hoping there might be future tweaks.

Anyone find any issues with the manual?

Just got mine today, and there is a printing issue throughout the entire book. I used to work in printing, so I'm maybe picky, but it's pretty bad. It really shows in the last part of the book with the pictures and artwork. Bummed!

This shows the dirty rollers/low ink issue that runs over every other page of the book.
IMG_20181022_184230 (resized).jpg

Here is some smudging. I could only find two pages with it.
IMG_20181022_183904 (resized).jpg

Thanks for letting me know. I'll contact jjp support.

Switch it to Sims staying lit after drain. I resisted for almost a year, but I finally caved. I now have deep games and enjoy the machine much more. The shot is so difficult that it should have been this way stock. It truly makes the game waaaaaay better. For the record, I jack all my machines up to steep angles and typically set rules to as difficult as possible. The only game I've left stock is The Shadow, and the only game I've nerfed is DI. I've made Armageddon only once on the old code, and I still have only spelled D-I-A-L-E-D with sim memory on, so it doesn't make the game easy. Give it a try. You won't regret it.

I get that criticism. If they added more ways to get light sim it would balance the game better. Stock it feels like buck Hunter: the game is nearly impossible to finish. You should be able to light the sim with a number of jackpots in regular multiballs and after doing well on Bob modes. I wish they left it on stock. Then it wouldn't feel like a nerf. Its nice to see the phone background change into the different backgrounds once in a while, so I find the hold a lesser of evils. I refuse to narrow the outlines!

I'm in the camp of disagreeing. I think in a home environment, you should be able to beat your game at least once a year, preferably a little more. How on earth is anyone going to beat it on route?

Every machine I have other than Dialed In is rarely conquered, but it does happen now and then. TZ more than Shadow, Shadow more than STTNG. I love the game, but I see the sim shot as the game's tragic flaw. It is not possible to dial in (no pun intended). Even the most skilled players argue that the shot is too tight and must be approached by finding bank shots and relying on fluke. In my opinion, to balance this issue, you need to be able to light it easier or have it carry over. They could help this issue in the code is what I'm saying.

A generally skilled player finishing a game once per year in a home environment is not asking for too much.

I love difficulty too. It just seems that the balance is off with stock settings. Look at a game like TZ. Completing the door is doable for most good players. I made extra balls harder to get and no xball carry over so that I complete it once maybe every six to eight months. With DI it just feels like I'll have to have a dream game filled with fluke to achieve something that I should, as a home collector and good player, see now and then. I believe code could fix most of this issue. Sim either needs to be lit more often or sims need to be collected elsewhere as well.

Pinball pal is the only person I've ever heard claim to nail the shot with consistency.

I find Superbands to make games quite a bit easier because of less bounce. I prefer the old bouncy rubber of yesteryear. My two cents.

Mine was one of the first ones and I had to contact my distributer. My manual has a pretty severe printing flaw. They offered to replace if I payed half shipping, which turned out to be hella expensive. Going to keep the flawed one. Still works I suppose.

My favourite: Sucking at a mode, shooting the theatre at high speed and holding the right flipper up so the ball bounces and finishes lighting big bag. Trap left, bump asshole to get him out of the way. Trap right. Nail big bang with one second left in the mode. Return off big bang shot, SDTFM.

All my B/W games are easy as pie to seat. I contacted jjp about this and was told it was a design issue and is now considered as functional. It had something to do with clearance.

If you open the coin door and use the rails, its easier to seat.

It is definitely annoying.

As an aside, Capcom has the best pf access system.

Yeah, take them off and use a vice to get them back to square. Also, be sure to use the pf support!

I wouldn't recommend this as it will create ball spin, which will create other problems with the right loop/ramp.

Looks like you have a bent lockdown housing. Looks like a factory QC issue to me as the latches should have bent before the entire housing, but who knows. You'd have to take that out and bend it straight.

The only issue with your solution is PF leveling. If your PF is level in relationship to the cab, that would work. I would pull it and fix it or contact JJP support to get a new one. Should't be too hard to fix if you have some shop tools.

If you mean when you seat the PF after raising it, the seating issue is a design quirk. There is no solution except to get used to finding a good way to get the PF seated. Open the coin door and use the rails to help.

DI is the only pin of ten in my dungeon without a sub. Soundtrack just doesn't need one in my opinion. News and "day in the life" music sounds just fine without. I dig the sound stock. I guess some mode music (EMP) and chaos would beneifit...

Anyone ever see this on their phone? I had to reset to get rid of it.

IMG_20181122_190118 (resized).jpg

Grace period has always been there. Theatre modes are easier.

It runs until you hear/see the end of mode scoring, which is a few seconds after the timer is done. It adds some intense pressure when you're used to it.

I've done the same stack. DEADLY!

Yessir.

Why not adjust flipper strength? A weaker left flipper means less phone rejects, less ball jump and general wear and tear. My left flipper is adjusted so that it easily makes the right ramp with a straight on shot but no more than that. My pf angle is cranked up as well. No rejects etc. and no sticky stuff.

I can backhand that ramp with my flipper turned down.

Check leaf adjustment and wiring connected to the switch.

I dunno. I'm not a huge fan of the idustrial looking pull-out handles, especially how they contrast with the white cabinet beside it... Just sayin'.

Who said anything about a topper?

Oh, yeah, that AFM topper? That thing looks dank. Good job, Skyemont!