(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club


By goren1818

2 years ago



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  • 9,372 posts
  • 506 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by the_zap
  • Topic is favorited by 176 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (2 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (2 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (2 years ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (2 years ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (1 year ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (1 year ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (1 year ago)

Post #1253 Velcro fix for right ramp hangup Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1258 Detailed pictures for adjusting a misbehaving trap door Posted by foobeer (1 year ago)

Post #1332 Getting access to computer in backbox on Dialed In Posted by hank527 (1 year ago)

Post #1347 Ball trap location. Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1377 Fix for USB at the coin door not working Posted by Pinhead1982 (1 year ago)

Post #1391 Fix for Tilt Bob not working all of a sudden Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1431 Adjustment point to grease for trap door to operate smoothly Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1451 Adjusting arm on Quantum Mechanic Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #2507 How to get in backbox to check audio connections Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #2661 DIY Lighting how-to for sides of Dialed In backglass Posted by lyonsden (1 year ago)


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#3787 1 year ago

Just returned my Alien brick with lights to the distributor and ordered a DI Le. Haven’t read a lot on this blog yet but nice to hear positive talk. Looking forward to getting it next week.

2 weeks later
#3971 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Which fuse blew on your game? I had F706 blow on mine and I'm pretty sure the issue was the auto shooter VUK was stuck open against the right tab of the apron and therefore resulting in a short. I bent that tab up a bit, replaced the fuse and everything has been fine since then.
If the Invisiglass is really scratched I would ask your distributor for a replacement. Are you sure it's not adhesive stuck on? Try buffing out with micro fiber cloth and an amomia free glass cleaner (I use Sparkle). Broken QUED lightning bolt seems to be common, had same issue. Which plastics are scratched?
Also, I would highly recommend tossing the balls that came from the factory. Those and even the Super Shiny premium carbon core balls can get pitted easily and scratch your playfield. Order the Ninja Chrome ones from Ball Baron, those work perfectly and hold up well.

Looking at the Ninja balls online. It says they can become magnetised, is this anyone’s experience.
What other balls have been used successfully and are the factory balls really an issue.
I have a game on order awaiting delivery.
Thanks.

1 week later
#4191 1 year ago

Is the headphone jack volume control intended to control the speaker volume. It’s on in the menu but not working.

#4194 1 year ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Is the headphone jack volume control intended to control the speaker volume. It’s on in the menu but not working.

Answer, take off ya beer goggles and connect the jack inside the cabinet.
I have just put in Sennheiser phones, sound great.

#4196 1 year ago

It fits an iPad and Galaxy s7.

#4197 1 year ago

Just swapped rubbers to Titans. Same result as my AFMr, score jumped dramatically straight away. The DI rubbers are definitely better than AFMr, but Titans are unbeatable for me.

#4201 1 year ago
Quoted from Marvin:

When was your game built? JJP has put titans on from the factory since last fall.

October 3.

2 weeks later
#4433 1 year ago

I slowly wound mine back to -22 delay with testing. LE no 545, so earlish build. I would go slow.

#4439 1 year ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I think default is - 80 !!

It came at zero. No sling at all. -22 just flicks it back for a nice easy set shot at the ramp.

#4461 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Just FYI......the LE# is completely arbitrary and has nothing to do with the build date.
Just sayin'.

Sorry, October build.

#4517 1 year ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Just starting to explore my DILE. So far, loving it. Mine was made in March this year so not really sure if I have the JJP protectors or true Cliffy's installed. The phone shot is pretty reliable but I have a terrible time hitting the SIM shot. Honestly, all the shots off the upper flipper I find very difficult. I very rarely hit the inner ramp when trying and don't think I've hit the SIM shot once when actually trying off the upper flipper. To my viewpoint, it looks like weird angles to those shots and the SIM has those posts on either side.
Any suggestions besides just continued practice?

Try playing around with your upper flipper strength.

#4532 1 year ago

Regarding ball getting stuck behind phone. There is a clear plastic behind the phone that on mine was sticking out to the right of the phone. It must be intended to stop this issue. I found that I could bend it back, just behind the phone and catch it on a mounting bolt. I can’t see how a ball could get back there any more.
Another issue was the ball not launching out of the phone VUK properly. Played with the solenoid settings, turns out it was hitting the ramp in front of it. Bent the metal guide down just a bit and reset coil to factory 20. Works like my AFMr now. Photo of clear plastic behind phone just clipped behind bolt.

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1 month later
#4831 1 year ago
Quoted from dluth:

So this is about my WOZ (I have a Dialed In also) but related to JJP tech support. My CPU isn’t booting up, and I put a ticket in on 23 June. Steve emailed me on the 24th with some things to try. I emailed him back on the 24th, 27th, 4th July and 12th July with no response.
Does anyone know what’s going on? Emailing him daily sounds a bit pushy but on the other hand I’ve had a dead machine for a month now...

Have you tried Wayne, the importer. He is very good.

3 weeks later
#5055 1 year ago

Found two thumb screws inside the machine. One top left and one top right corner on timber bottom. Any ideas where they came from.

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#5057 1 year ago
Quoted from clg:

They are for the coin mech. Not going to hurt anything.

Thanks, I remember them now in an old machine. I don’t have mechs in either of my current machines and I found these way at the back. I have also vacuumed inside previously. Must have just missed seeing them before. Don’t know how they would have got there.

3 weeks later
#5259 1 year ago

I seem to have a problem with Monkey Wrench Multiball. When playing I am passing the diverter and it is not registering as a successful pass. I have tested the three switches with the ball independently (up the ramp, just before Betty and just after Betty) it is recognising attempts but not successful passes. I have tested them in the multiball and outside it with same results, all register a score. Any ideas.

#5268 1 year ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

Best guess: The "before" and "after" switches are reversed.
--Ted

And the lateral thinking award goes to Ted. Thanks mate.

#5273 1 year ago

I has the same VUK problem. Bending the VUK and adjusting the strength fixed it beautifully. I didn’t bend the ramp. Maybe bend it back.

1 week later
#5336 1 year ago

While the discussion regarding update wishes is still going. I am sure I am not the only person who would love a pause function. It could be activated possibly by holding in the start button for more than 5 seconds for example. The next time the ball enters a VUK, subway or lock it could be held until the start is held again for 5 seconds. Using the start may be difficult for one legged users as a knee would have to be used but I am sure pretty quickly someone could come up with a better way. The phone app could display a huge red pause button on your phone for example.

1 month later
#5808 11 months ago

If you play enough games the ball will find a way.

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In the left sling.

#5944 11 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

That's funny! One night my wife thought I was losing my mind,when I said I'd like to ring the QED guy's little neck.

I find the QED guy saves more SDTMs than anything. He only seems to get in the way of the pops, the left ramp still gets them, other shots can get past him. Even the hurricane mode, the magnets can pull the ball around him when going for the theatre quite often. Just aim for the Big Bang. New code should make his save ability even better.

#6116 11 months ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Its not the best looking but u really dont notice while playing.... but it plays so much better with the wire guide on top. [quoted image]

The mount on which you attached your wire was where I put about four or five washers to raise that wire form. I also slightly decreased the PF angle. This was just enough to slow that rapid speed towards that last bend. I had pretty bad problems with this issue, it was even hitting the stop hard enough to jump out and over everything and skip the flippers and SDTM or left drain on occasions. I may have even slightly pushed the whole wire form very slightly down in the middle to take a bit of extra speed off the descending ball.

#6134 11 months ago

Has anyone fitted orange rubbers to the PF and flippers. I just ordered orange Titans for all but the standard black. I would love to see photos. It takes a few week to arrive here in OZ.

#6176 11 months ago

From my experience as a first time JJP owner. I found it best to play the hell out of it and seek answers to the questions that come up on the way. It’s a complex beast. Great journey. Enjoy. It just gets better the more you learn.

1 week later
#6266 11 months ago
Quoted from Vino:

I haven’t read the thread, but the BOB sign is definitely in a wonky position for the player.
Did it somehow not pass a test at factory?

I believe it was positioned in that way to avoid balls getting lodged behind it.

1 week later
#6367 10 months ago

These are orange Titans fitted last week. Trough lights are great, worth the $. I also did the back box surrounding the screen and also colour changing leds top inside translite.
I have also posted for you on AFM.

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2 weeks later
#6481 10 months ago

Yup.....too much time.
I used a taxidermy wolf eye, it looks right thru you.

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2 weeks later
#6779 9 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Dialed In high scores.
LTG : )

Is that an on-site machine with normal high scores?

1 week later
#6887 9 months ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

Some sets are still available !
28,- $ inclusive shipping via envelope from germany.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I bought these from Wayne, excellent quality and value. Really finish the game off if you are into detail like me.

1 month later
#7406 7 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

When DI first came out, it had no scoop protector in the sim hole and i could hit the shot accurately with no rejects. It made for a much better DI experience. Now that every DI in the world has scoop protectors, i cannot hit the shot for the life of me. I’m wondering if anyone has removed their protector and how their sim hole has held up since? If i ever got this game, i would be very tempted to remove it.

I know I am going to kick the hornet nest here but here it goes.
My Cliffy kept warping after a good clean hit to the point it was raised and making the shot increadibly frustrating. The ball seemed to bounce off the rear metal forward onto the cliffy, pushing the front of the Cliffy up making it raised to the pf. I removed it several times and straightened it out but after a few good clean hits it was bent again.
I took the plung and removed the Cliffy, installing Mylar around the hole. The game is much more enjoyable to play and after a few hundred games, no sign of any damage at all.
I have taken the attitude that if I have a problem, I can put the Cliffy back on and not see the damage. Given I wouldn’t do that until I sell the game, who cares, I can’t see it during play and I enjoy the game way more.

#7410 7 months ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Did you also remove the cliffy for the phone scoop? I am getting A LOT of rejects and roll-outs from the phone scoop and it drives me crazy.

No, i didn’t remove it but it is flat still. I still get rejects but that’s just me not centering the hit.

3 weeks later
#7493 6 months ago

I have had this machine for a year and just tried adjusting magnet behaviour to Difficult. If you haven’t tried it, it’s hilarious.
Game Settings~Under Attack Mulitball~Multiball Magnet Behaviour~Difficult

#7510 6 months ago

Problem. The GI circuit that lights the left side lights and top led in the left out lane island isn’t working. I have checked the fuses which appear ok. I have taken out a working led board and swapped it out for all on the circuit, following the gray wires back. No result. Any ideas.

#7513 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

The little surface mounted ones have an LED next to them. Green good, red back. Check power to the boards, be sure ethernet cables are on tight at LED board and HUB board.
LTG : )

Are these the leds that are meant to be green.

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#7519 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

No, those are your fuse LEDs on the I/O board and they are fine.
LTG : )

I am pointing to one of the boards not lighting. I have checked all the connections on the other pictured boards.

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#7524 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

On that board red LED is a bad fuse.
LTG : )

What is the fix

#7531 6 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Surface mount fuse. Contact your distributor first then open a ticket.
LTG : )

Thanks for that.

#7540 6 months ago
Quoted from coz6:

It cost me around $60 for a board swap on my Hobbit, the problem if you can't do surface repairs is if you have a LED thats come unhooked and shorting to something you will blow the fuse again and then another $60, so like on old school repairs find the source of the issue before sending in the board for repair unless you really like doing repairs or board swaps they just don't blow.

I will check again. Thanks for the advice.

2 weeks later
#7613 5 months ago

Can anyone share their experience with returning their drones to JJP and getting repairs / replacements. Are the replacements robust on installation or are they best kept turned off. I have sent mine back from Australia and don’t really want to have to pay postage again. Thanks.

1 month later
#7858 4 months ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

That's an awesome score. It looks like you'll be stuck with that pic for awhile.

Yeh, I always wear a shirt now. Had a pic like that for a while. I got some strange looks. I think they wanted to sterilise the game before they played.

3 weeks later
#8017 3 months ago
Quoted from Kingpin22:

Finally was able to pick up a Dialed In LE! I’ve been chasing this title for over 2 years and the stars finally aligned Babee!!!!! Had a great game with settings set from previous owner with the SIM cards carrying over from ball to ball, this may be factory setting on the new 1.61 code. Not sure. What a masterpiece! Congratulations to the JJP team on creating such a fun pinball. This one will be bolted to the floor next to Funhouse and Roadshow!
I have a early build with playfield #67 and can’t get the backglass off, I don’t think the previous owner ever took it off in 2 years. Any tips greatly appreciated![quoted image]

My back glass wouldn’t open when I picked it up new. To avoid damaging the glass in future, when we opened it we removed the part of the lock that swings around. The glass sits in place nicely unlocked. Don’t want to scratch it from behind.

#8038 3 months ago

Don’t give a cr ap what other people score.

#8095 3 months ago
Quoted from kcZ:

x2... once I gave this game more of a chance, I want one.
I do wish there was some better art.

The art was something that took me a while to appreciate. After I got the shots under control I was amazed every time just how good the game is to shoot. It took quite a while to really have a close look the art, the game grabbed me that much. The detail and complexity takes time to take in.
I was sent a replacement trap door which after fitted I had the old one in my hand and the detail just in that is beautiful. That’s not even meant to be seen. When you have a moment, grab a beer and just look at it inch by inch. Even the tiny plastics on the upper play field have been thought through. The colours are deep and bright. Like the game as a whole, I think time needs to be spent looking at the level of detail. JJP team have spent some time on this machine, probably more than the accountants would have liked. The investment is in the game development not in paying for IP.

2 weeks later
#8268 86 days ago
Quoted from Navystan:

OK, I've finally joined the club. I recently had a small collection which included , Harlem Globetrotters, Flight 2000, and Gottlieb Count-Down. yes, I modest old collection. Prior, I went through TAF, STTNG, JD, SW, BSD, T2, and many others. I sold all my old games and now have Dialed In (SE, but with Playfield protector) and Pinbot. Next week, I get my first NIB, Batman 66. In the picture, you can see where BM66 is going. I also attached a few shots of my modest "man cave." I have one "slot" left for a future pin. I'm leaning towards either Wonka or Deadpool. Question for team Dialed in...Can drones "spin time" be adjusted? Right now, it barely spins 1 second. I can check in test mode and see the color LEDs and top and bottom drones spin. However, center drone only lights, but doesn't spin in test mode. Maybe the new software update will do some more with drones?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The piano could go. That would make room for 2 more pins.

4 weeks later
#8806 58 days ago

Phone scoop coil inconsistent.
This problem started some time ago and got worse with the update it seemed, until it intermittently didn’t fire at all. Thought I had a switch problem but that worked in test most of the time. Long story short, turns out the broken end from the trap door had worked itself down the subway and was around the Phone entry switch area. I would have sworn I had found that bit when it broke, but obviously not. If you have had a broken subway door check your subway. It’s a real pain getting the thing out of that mech. It fits in tight.

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#8811 57 days ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

My phone scoop coil is also inconsistent, since 1.60, better with new cpu, but I also miss a broken trap door flap, so I checked as you suggested, but did not find the broken flap... rebuild everything and all is the same like before...
where exactly was your flap in the mechanic?

Flap broke and replaced maybe a year ago. I think it started to affect the mech about 3 to 4weeks ago. Hard to tell as the code also affected the scoop coil.

#8826 56 days ago

It’s an Olympic conspiracy.

#8832 53 days ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Fixed the screens - you won’t beleive it! Story later
But now QED man won’t move?! What should I look for?
Thanks,
Neil.Check the two black screws as in the image. The shaft can rotate freely if these are not tight.

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#8833 53 days ago

Check the two black screws as in the image. If loose the shaft spins freely.

1 week later
#8939 45 days ago

Wish you would do those decals for Road Show. You DI ones are great.

#8959 43 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

They don't. Just meant to show you where to place the phone on the glass.
LTG : )

Or where not to rest a cigarette

2 weeks later
#9052 27 days ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

That's what 'dirty pool' is all about
Rob

Dirty pool is very rare. Diverting to the kicker happens a bit.

#9116 21 days ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Or you can take them off. I took mine off and the game is so much more enjoyable

Had my sim hole protector off for a couple of hundred games. Used Mylar in place. Plays much better, can actually make the shot. No wear, chips etc. Phone scoop left it on. If that bricks, you need to aim better.

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