(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

3 years ago

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  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by WizardsCastle
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Topic index (key posts)

23 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (3 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (3 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (2 years ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (2 years ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (2 years ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (2 years ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (2 years ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7354 1 year ago

Has anyone played around with adjusting the theater so visually it is at the correct angle for your height? I tend to stand a bit back and lean into the machine which puts me at a lower stance. As a result i lose a little bit of the visuals in the theater. When the spinner is up i cant see the value beneath it etc...

#7356 1 year ago

I think tipping the front up might be easier than tipping it down. So you might be in luck for you. In my case it might be more difficult.

1 week later
#7400 1 year ago

I wonder if it would make a difference putting black rubber on as opposed to white? Less bounce, maybe a better chance the ball would make it in slightly grazing the post. I don't have any at the moment otherwise I would try.

#7419 1 year ago

I finally got a chance to tip my theater down a little so I can better see the lower portion of the animations. Its not perfect but its better than it was, anymore and would start to lose the top portion. I ended up raising the rear almost 3/8".

I changed out the plunger for my trap door a few weeks ago. I ended up using a flipper plunger which is a little longer. This shortens the stroke of the trap door opening so it does not hit the wireform above it. I changed out the linkage to an arrow head type.

One thing I didn't see mentioned anywhere (or I missed it somewhere) was the lower pop bumper grinding on the neighboring ball guide. The same issue WOZ had. I needed to grind off some to give a little clearance. Unfortunately I didn't notice this until I had metal shavings all over the playfield. The ball moves fast in the game so it spread pretty quickly. A little late but hopefully this will save someone some trouble.

#7433 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Oooh...nice about the plunger. So...which plunger did you end up using? Was it hard to switch out the linkage? (like...requiring a rivet gun or something) or did you just disassemble and reassemble with the new plunger link on. Pics? Also.....lengthening the plunger will definitely lower the "upper limit" of trapdoor travel...but can also lower the resting position of the trapdoor. Basically...are you having issues with the opening now not being large enough so a slow moving ball can't easily roll in?
I'll also have to take a look at the lower pop bumper and see if any grinding is happening. Thanks for the headsup.

I used a standard Williams flipper plunger. You will need a hammer and a punch to remove the linkage and switch it to an arrow head type. Lengthening the plunger will not change anything on the return stroke, so the trap door will still close the same, only the opening of the door will be less. No problems with clearance for the ball to drop in.

1 week later
#7452 1 year ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

I feel your pain, DI is one I cannot do well on either for some reason.

Dialed In is just a fast moving game. It really forces you to keep thinking ahead and take advantage of opportunities as they present themselves. Basically you need to track that ball like it just stole your wallet.

#7463 1 year ago

As far as i know quantum mechanic arm will lower when ball lock is lite and raise when ball lock is no longer lite. I don’t believe there is any specific shot that will overide that behavior.

#7472 1 year ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

I read here in this thread several times that I'm not alone with a sometimes stuck ball in front of the mechanics diverter. Especially when the ball rolls very very slowly towards the diverter, it simply stops there. I have to wait for a ball search to free it.
Now I noticed something by chance: the diverter has a lug which causes the ball to roll onto the mini playfield. The lug touches one side of the wire ramp on my machine when it's down - maybe the lug should be right between the two wires of the wire ramp on which the ball rolls and it would move down a little bit more if not touching the wire? In my opinion it would fit perfectly between the two wires and if so I very much think even a slow rolling ball would not stop in front of the diverter.
How is the diverter mounted on your machine? Does the lug go between the wires or does it also touch one side? And is there a method of adjusting it so that the lug is exactly between the two wires of the wire ramp?

That finger on your diverter should come down pretty deep between the two wires on your wireform. In my case i had to sand away some material from the inside of Betty to allow the diverter to drop down fully into its lowered position. The mechanism inside of Betty was getting hung up.

So yes you are correct on your assumption.

#7477 1 year ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

Good to know that the lug should go deeper between the wires. I don't want to sand anything, the idea was to adjust the arm or the diverter that is mounted on that arm - but this doesn't seem to work very well, it seems that there is almost no tolerance. But maybe adjusting the wireramp itself like TrekTobbi suggested would be a way to go. I'll investigate, maybe there is a simple solution. I even thought to ask JJP support.

I cant speak entirely for your case but in mine the interior of Betty would not allow the arm to come all the way down. Sanding a little material away from the inside of Betty allow the mechanism to move freely.

#7480 1 year ago

Yea you need to get that finger to land in between the two wires on the wireform and go from there. I was talking about how I needed to sand the inside of the figure, but you may not need to. See how it runs after you get the diverter lined up first.

#7486 1 year ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

But how can the diverter be lined up? Can the angle of the front part be adjusted in some way?

I'm not sure you will find anything in the actual arm itself to adjust but its worth the look. I would probably look to see if the entire mechanism can be moved first, that might be the easiest. See if you can loosen the screws and move the whole thing enough to get it lined up. You can also try as others suggested which is to try and adjust the wireform though that might be more difficult considering it has so many attachment points, it may not move easily.

#7490 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Is it safe to install the latest software yet? a few people were getting out of sync animations on the phone iirc.

I am also wonder the same thing. I would rather not invite problems if I don't need to.

1 week later
#7521 1 year ago

Can anything be done about the sound on this thing? Or are we dead in the water until an adjustment is made at the next update? Too much highs and not enough lows..

Just an observation, it seems if my game is on for a long time (3-4 hours), my phone starts to produce noticeable waves in the display background. It is most noticeable on the red or green background while waiting to activate a multiball. I would guess and say that heat is causing an issue with it. If I feel the glass above the phone it is very warm.

#7533 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Not sure if anyone has ever noticed this as you may not have had as bad of a ball as I did. I don't think I even hit one shot before I drained. I got 800 points and on the screen noticed it said the points were a "participation award" lol. That was pretty good.

That's f'n hilarious

#7546 1 year ago
Quoted from Mageek:

You can try changing the sound with these System Settings, I thought changing the Volume Effect Intensity to 2 made it sound a lot better on mine (not just louder).
[quoted image]

Thank you, I know there are setting for volume intensity but I was more or less looking to adjust the high and low pitches. I will give volume effect a try just for the hell of it.

1 week later
#7581 1 year ago

Anyone know what the reflection is in the captive ball?

#7592 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

I spent some time tonight looking at why shots were bricking. It was consistently the scoop vertical reenforcements.
Lifted the pf and looked at the mech. Mine had been installed with a fair bit of slack space behind it for the cables etc. So my guess is that the mech is waaay forward in my machine.
As a test I unscrewed the entire mech and moved it around by hand. It didn’t hit anything else so I moved it as far back as I could go and put in a screw.
This instantly made the phone scoop so much better. I did have to realign the subway from the sim card. It had enough play to only require one end to be moved.
Measurements between old and new position is 7.5mm.
[quoted image]
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I ended up moving my scoop back also. My balls were getting destroyed, which I believe is from them hitting the scoop side supports. I am wondering if you are getting any playfield chipping on the back left side of the hole now that it is exposed more? I might have to fab up something to cover that spot. The scoop is so much smoother with it back farther. Entering and exiting.

#7597 1 year ago

I seem to have a ball management issue with DI. The game moves so quick that there is nowhere to send a ball while you deal with another during multiballs. Not so much during a standard multiball but when stacked, things get crazy. Something I never really look to do (for reasons previously stated) it just kind of ends up happening due to circumstances. So this game gets me rocking like no other so far. With WOZ I didn't seem to have this problem, there were so many places to send a ball to get rid of it for a while. Pops are easy to hit, crystal ball has a little delay, same for Throne room. Castle playfield I can make a sandwich before that ball comes back around, magnet up top will grab a ball here and there. But DI....no freakn way, pedal to the floor...all the time. Its great though.

1 week later
#7678 1 year ago

I just updated to 1.61 the other day, I had been avoiding it due to some reported issues. I figured I am going to have to eventually. There is a lot I like about the update but I miss multiball starting off beat while the audio "now you're dialed in" plays. It kept you on your toes. I noticed the random insert is no longer lit when random award is ready, not sure if that is intentional or a bug. One thing I can confirm as others have reported is coil firing seems to be a little all over the place. Phone scoop, kickback, skill shot kickback. There does seem to be a bit of delay between audio and video on the phone display (and I'm not a gamer), not a big deal to me but the erratic coils drive me nuts. Hopefully this can be ironed out. 1.57 was perfect in my opinion, my game played awesome.

#7690 1 year ago

Anyone questioning weather or not to update to 1.61, don't. I regret updating, I only did it because I had my drones replaced and JJP suggests to update to 1.61. After a bunch of games on it trying to "deal with it" I think I'm done with it and going to roll back. This update needs to go back in the oven, its way too wonky with the coil firing. I am surprised they released it as is. Oddly though I could be wrong but the theater throw magnet seems to be more reliable in 1.61.

2 weeks later
#7791 1 year ago
Quoted from drained:

My new DILE still under warranty has 2 drones that don't spin, only lights when I test them. Gonna try and warranty them out.. I like the drones as it is one of my favorite toys in the game for whatever reason.
There has to be a way to repair them.. nothing to scientific about these unless the motors are burning out which is another problem considering their total run times.

In my case I had intermittent connections for the power wires inside the motor itself. No way to open these up to repair them. Or like another mentioned they are probably also just burning up. Cheap $15 drones not meant to last long. I like the spinning drones, too bad there cannot be an option to "Spin drones more frequently" in settings. Maybe its possible to buy a better drone to replace these factory ones with that would hold up a little better.

1 month later
#8021 11 months ago

Move the scoop back. Somewhere buried in here is a post with a few pictures a gentleman posted showing the process.

4 weeks later
#8397 10 months ago

Disappointed they didnt fix the erratic coil issue. That is pretty much all I have been waiting for. The game is awesome otherwise....

#8460 10 months ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

Slower processor in my machine, coils inconsistent, in rare cases delay in videos, with BT dongle directly in backbox
[quoted image]

I have clock speeds in the 3000’s and i have the erratic coil issues. So it likely not the processor speed unless we are all undersizes but i do not know enough to answer that question. I have also experienced slower animation on the main screen. I cant say how often but i know it has happened.

#8568 10 months ago
Quoted from pinstyle:

I have clock speeds in the 3000’s and i have the erratic coil issues. So it likely not the processor speed unless we are all undersizes but i do not know enough to answer that question. I have also experienced slower animation on the main screen. I cant say how often but i know it has happened.

I guess this was missed so I will post it again.

I have a dual core Pentium with clock speeds of 3299 and I still have the erratic coil issue and have observed slow animation on the main screen.

I cant see JJP pushing an update to a game that cant run it.

#8570 10 months ago

Uhhh....hey bud, can I have my ball back?

Just completed Emoji overload with two shots and scored 103,000.

DI (resized).JPG
1 week later
#8701 9 months ago

What an incredible game. Even the theater shot. Some people might not like it but I like having to do a little shimmy to save that ball. My game is perfectly level from side to side and I have no problem with drops down the middle. You just have to shim shim shimmy and save that b!tch. Very happy I got a chance to own this game.

3 weeks later
#8980 8 months ago
Quoted from Trooper11040:

I’m considering selling my NGG to fund the purchase of a DI LE....good idea or no? Figured I’d ask the group! Haha

I had a really really nice BOP that I sold to get DI. At first its was tough to let it go and I immediately had sellers remorse upon selling it. Then i got DI and holy cow I remember thinking to myself I would have been a complete idiot to hang onto BOP and not get DI. So glad everything lined up for me and i got a DILE (no standards were available near me at the time which is what i was aiming for). Go for it, sell that dated game.

#8990 8 months ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

This is confusing to me — on my game it seems like switch hits add emojis to the screen and ramps/scoops clear some of them, along with the pops. Isn’t that how it works? So the longer you go the more switches u hit and the more pop up on screen to clear? I need to go study this again, maybe I’m imagining that?

I don’t believe hitting switches adds them, I am pretty sure they just keep popping up at a faster rate the longer the mode runs.

1 month later
#9300 7 months ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

just before the WE, was the right time to update to 1.73, and in my first game, BOUM ! SHOWDOWN
[quoted image]
quite sure (or again, its the placebo effect !?) coils are now working perfect
much better, especially with the phone scoop, easier when you "know" your pin and how the ball will react...

Just updated a day or two ago and finally put some games on tonight. Coils are still inconsistent but much much better than they were. Its tolerable but still there. I believe the "under attack" insert briefly turns yellow when the audio "now your dialed in" plays. Doesn't do it if you flip to skip. I noticed some new effects which are nice.

I had a little panic attack when all the inserts went rainbow colored after emoji overload LOL. After the WOZ lighting fiasco the first thing I thought was I had a led board drop out. WOZ would do this sometimes when you had a bad board, you might get a whole section that just goes crazy rainbow colors.

Added 8 months ago:

Never mind on the under attack insert turning yellow. Its just an optical illusion.

#9322 7 months ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

One pet peeve on mine on this game is the selfie mode. Not because of the pictures and mode itself, I actually really like t. It's because they use a Polaroid frame for the picture. If you're taking a selfie with a phone, why wouldn't the outline be of a smart phone?

Nah, the Polaroid throwback is cool....

1 month later
#9585 6 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Your mileage may vary on that though...I don't think no matter how hard it goes up the left ramp on mine, with the diverter down it almost always goes to upper playfield for me, instead of "bouncing back" towards the skill shot kicker...

If you nudge hard enough at just the right time you can get that ball to exit the top of the mini-playfield and drop into the skill shot lane. It does require a pretty good nudge though.

1 month later
#9734 4 months ago

RonnSS, that part you have circled is the flap you need to adjust to get it to catch and keep the door open. You may need to bent it a little, I would add a touch of grease to it also. There are two coils at work here. One to lift the trap door open, and one coil to release the latch to drop the trap door closed. There is a very fine line between the door NOT hitting the wireform above it and the door opening enough to let a ball drop in. I ended up changing out the plunger to limit the height the trap door can open (the same can be done with a nut or washers as some suggested). Even pulling and bending the entire mechanism will change the height of the door opening if I remember correctly. It takes a bit of fiddling with but once I got mine sorted out it has been fine ever since.

#9741 4 months ago
Quoted from RonSS:

Thanks, that was my thought as my door won't stay up.
Half the fun is fine tuning, right?
I'll also attack the slamming when I take the coil off. Right now I just want to play it!

Yep, I played mine for a bit before I got to adjusting it.

2 months later
#10006 84 days ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I see the B.O.B. targets are not selectable by the flippers... Sigh... If I had a pinball Genie and one wish, this would be my pinball wish.

Tranq, are you sling shot power set really low? If so, turn them up a little and you will never have a problem getting that lower B target.

#10008 84 days ago

Maybe. I believe I turned mine up. Not enough to go nuts but enough to avoid the potential tennis match between the slings and to keep the from launching straight into the out lane. So, a little stronger is actually good.

2 months later
#10467 10 days ago

I’ve owned this game for over a year now and I just noticed Schrodingers Cash


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