(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

2 years ago

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  • 9,042 posts
  • 494 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by Rob_G
  • Topic is favorited by 164 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (2 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (2 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (1 year ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (1 year ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (1 year ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (1 year ago)

Post #1253 Velcro fix for right ramp hangup Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1258 Detailed pictures for adjusting a misbehaving trap door Posted by foobeer (1 year ago)

Post #1332 Getting access to computer in backbox on Dialed In Posted by hank527 (1 year ago)

Post #1347 Ball trap location. Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1377 Fix for USB at the coin door not working Posted by Pinhead1982 (1 year ago)

Post #1391 Fix for Tilt Bob not working all of a sudden Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1431 Adjustment point to grease for trap door to operate smoothly Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1451 Adjusting arm on Quantum Mechanic Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #2507 How to get in backbox to check audio connections Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #2661 DIY Lighting how-to for sides of Dialed In backglass Posted by lyonsden (1 year ago)

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#1048 1 year ago

I wanted to post this up here for all of the Dialed In owners to show you what the Pin Stadium plug and play system for JJP's Dialed In looks like. It was like night and day, and the UV+Glow flasher made this already amazing game even better. Let me know what you think after checking out the video walkthrough.

Pin Stadium

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#1054 1 year ago
Quoted from jwilson:

I'd just like to point out that the lighting on Dialed In is perfectly fine in a totally black room and you don't need to blow out your retinas with this thing. It's completely unnecessary. I think your side-by-side photo is photoshopped to make the game much darker than it is in real life.

It's completely unedited off of an old iPhone. I know that seeing this in person would change your mind. Talk with kevinbuffalo or Nick from Buffalo pinball to get a non-designers perspective on this. Because I would be in the same boat as you thinking they were edited.

It's a whole new level of lighting for these games and we get used to it but these really do change Dialed In to exactly what you see. I will try to post up a live video with them being turned on/off. That would help clarify this a lot. Also, check this thread out as it may be of some help to show you what others think about them.


#1055 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

Damn some harsh responses. The pic on the left def looks darker than mine and I have no problem seeing anything but I'm willing to give the guy a post to show the pics. I wouldn't expect multiple posts though.

I am also a Dialed In LE owner and just sharing what the lights can do. Just letting you guys know this is an option. It really makes this big of a difference and many DI owners have ordered these for a reason. The pics were taken in a completely dark room with no lighting.

No intention of spamming by any means not any need to. The best thing is for others to post up the results on this thread once they get them installed. There will be many post on this shortly.

JJP makes such a great game and I am really enjoying the quality of this game. Wow!!

#1058 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

I play in total darkness and di is plenty bright and is probably the most well lit stock pin ive ever played. No issue at and and the pinstadium wld just take away from the amazing light show and effects .

Yes it's very well lit but if you look at the center of the playfield it's much darker than the sides. This evens out that lighting and brightens it up even more and they sync with the GI of JJP's system so that they turn off and on with its modes. I hope this helps.

#1065 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Video of mine in basically darkness and its perfectly fine and then some lol. Do the pinstadium just go out with the gi or can they dim also bc di has lots of dimming effects especially on new code.
» YouTube video

Thanks for posting that up and shooting that footage. If you look closely at the video you will see the darker spots on the center of the game and they gradually get a little deeper from the edges to the center. Mine used to look the same way and I wanted to bring that part of the artwork in balance with the rest of the game.

It's all personal preference totally and I agree that Dialed In is one of the most well lit games. This just enhances it even more and fills the gaps in the lighting to balance the playfield out. And yes the GI module reads the signal so it syncs off/on or fades depending on what GI you connect the Pin Stadiums to.

If anyone is on the Cincinnati area I would be more than happy to let you see it in person. Until Expo last weekend at our booth many felt the same way.

I'm a big collector myself and huge JJP fan and an app developer, so I just combined the two worlds together to give you app controllable lighting with your phone. You can adjust the RGB lighting and white lightning separately within the app from 0-100% to your liking. This product is to just add more to the growing world of pinball that we all love.

I screenshot yours next to the one with them installed for comparison so that you can see the unedited results.

I hope this clarifies things better.

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#1067 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

If u compare yours to my pic above and not the video (bad/different angle) there isnt alot of different imo. I like your products but its just not needed imo and apparently many others feel the same in this particular case.

It's tough to really show and capture with a camera the big difference that your eye will see when they are installed. Plus I have the lights only dialed in at 30% brightness to fill the dark sections.

This was just released and a good handful of silent observers on this post do see the need for them. Which is much appreciated and thank you for your orders!

Anyways, it's not for everyone but I think that once you put them on you wouldn't want them off. I would be more than happy to allow one of you to appoint anyone on this post (that your trust) to try them out and then do a fully transparent review of them. In fact that would be awesome and help out a lot of others reading this thread too. I know if I saw someone post something they created for a machine that they love, I would be hesitant at first and feel they are maybe biased but potentially with good reason until someone else confirms.

Feel free to PM me here as not to derail this thread further. Or go to the Pin Stadium thread to keep this appropriately contained:


#1069 1 year ago
Quoted from VidiotGT:

I read about the wire a while ago. I don't see anything like that. Just the hanging metal piece (switch?). When the flipper is at rest it sits right against the metal.

Here is a picture of mine if that helps. It hits the shots great. It looks like yours needs to be adjusted back down and that should fix it.

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#1073 1 year ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

I appreciate what Pin Stadium is doing and think it is a cool product but a few posts too many and it starts to feel like a salesman evangelizing and sometimes that gets annoying.

Just wanted to let others know about it and then there were many questions to reply to and I re-routed it on my own to the appropriate thread as this is about Dialed In and not Pin Stadium. As I agree I want to keep this to helping others on Dialed In.

Speaking of which for anyone that needs to access their computer boards, fuses, wiring, monitor. Here is a tip, the tower is now in the backbox (unlike WOZ) and in order to access the boards you must unlock the monitor and it swings out on an articulating arm to give you quick easy access. Here are a few pics showing the wooden stoppers on each side they need to be loosened and pull out of the way. There is no need to remove them, but just rotate them so that you can lift the metal gate on each side to release the monitor. Then just pull the monitor out and you have easy access to all the goodies in the back.

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#1101 1 year ago
Quoted from VidiotGT:

That did it! Shifted the play of the entire game.

Glad you got that fixed and now you are back to normal gameplay. This should be huge for you now.

#1104 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Have to agree DI is just right with the lighting. Hasn't got the in your face blinding LED's that many Sterns seem to suffer from.
Not a fan of making every game light up like an Xmas tree!
It is good to have dark areas as that then gives a good contrast during the light shows.
Brighter the lights, the more light shows suffer.

Yes Christmas trees are a no no and as far as the light show goes that is why GI integration is important and a must have. Bright insert LED's and darker playfields create too much contrast for the eye and really makes things worse.

#1105 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Finally got my game up and running after 2 consecutive ball trough board failures (!!!!).
I remember reading it but don't know where.....what mode dictates the movement of the mechanics arm? I know mechanic multiball, but what else?
Also how do you adjust the mechanics arm alignment?

Here is a link to the board trough on the manual. Page 54 shows assembly:

Sections 2-6 are where you can make physical adjustments. Check for loose nuts, make sure the spring is seated properly, then feel for smooth movement in the plunger sleeve. Is this what you are looking for?

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#1109 1 year ago

I am sure they will make it right. Their customer service is outstanding always.

#1136 1 year ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

I agree, the cab seems very solid. I was concerned that the split could/would increase over time with nudging. And yes, absolutely correct, it is covered by the leg.

Hopefully you can just set it up and enjoy it. That would be ideal and sounds like it will be fine. That would be torture not being able to play it or to have any downtime.

#1137 1 year ago
Quoted from adamross:

That seems to have done the trick. Big thanks!

Oh good that is great news. JJP thought of everything and this was an easy fix to your problem as a result.

#1147 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

#12 laser light will not show as white as every other Led is capable of.Anybody else have this issue?

Yes the blue and green aren't working on that RGB board. Replacing it will fix it.

#1150 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Thanks for help I’ll contact JJP

Yes you should be good and its an easy swap too! Not a big deal just a little thing fortunately and they will surely take care of it quickly.

#1151 1 year ago
Quoted from schukei:

My Dialed In also with kick out light on will not kick back the ball into play about one half the time. If the ball is not kicked back I always get a ball save. I don't know if I should look at the assembly or if the game does this just to screw with my head and is part of the software

Here is how I fixed mine as the previous owner must have changed it. The one with the Kickback Strength at 6 and Kickback Delay at 55 milliseconds is the BEFORE (has problems just like you) and the AFTER (which fixed it) has the Kickback Strength at 6 still but the Kickback Delay at the recommended factory setting of 40. If yours is not at 40, then I would try that and then adjust accordingly either way. Sounds like this should potentially help. Let me know. Also is a video (46 seconds in) that shows it working like it should after I changed it. I hope this helps!

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#1154 1 year ago

When mine comes down off the Theater it just touches the tip of the right flipper enough to get a wide angle light shot to the left side of the playfield. It's semi close to draining but 9 out of 10 doesn't. Maybe double check the level of the playfield to make sure? Let me know how that checks out.

#1158 1 year ago

Yes I think a hair to the right lean will fix it. Which means maybe leaning right to get it level "on the playfield" not glass.

#1167 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Just got to chaos in quantum city again and wow ..... the lightshow makes it very hard to see anything (which i love) its almost like a strobe effect with every color. Seems to be a 4 or 5 ball mb with every shot being a jackpot? Still not real sure whats going on lol bc its so crazy. Any other testers get to this mode?

Have not seen this yet, it would be great if you could capture a video of it. I know it would be hard since it's not common.

#1168 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Go to titanpinball.com. There is a verified “kit” that someone put together on their site. If you don’t like the colors, you can mimic the kit pieces with colors of your choice. The kit is red silicone bands, but I chose clear silicone bands for mine.
I installed the kit last night on my DI and it’s perfect. You do have to disassemble a few things but it’s not too bad, and it will give you some experience for when you have to fix something or replace a broken rubber. Just be sure to take lots of pictures of the fasteners and washers before you disassemble each part to make reassembly a sure thing. And you don’t have to tighten the plastic centered nuts more than snug. They stay tight and you don’t want to harm any plastics by overtightining.

The clear bands sounds like they would look really good with the playfield. Can you post up some pictures of what it looks like ?

#1173 1 year ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

I need a favour. I'm hosting a halloween party tonight. I got my dialed In last night and want to make sure the pitch is 6.5 degress and that my settings are all optimal. However, My digital leveler is place behind a crap load of stuff that I sealed off for the event. Can someone take a picture of the bubble level on their dialed in so I can wing it. As well wondering what your flipper strentghts are set at. Would be awesome for help. I still have a shit load of things to do and I'm running out of time

I don't have immediate access to the game but here are my flipper strengths I fine tuned.

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#1175 1 year ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Did clear when got mine and love them but I like them on all JJP pins I've had....like how it lets light thru them..

Thanks these look really good!

#1181 1 year ago
Quoted from woody76:

I had installed my SIM card cliffy weeks ago but just got around to my phone scoop cliffy today. After I installed it the ball stopped feeding the right flipper out of the scoop. I tore it apart like 3 times and it was still doing it. I bumped up the eject coil strength a few notches and now it works great again. What the heck???

It must have been just enough to move it a hair when it came out of the scoop and the tragectory was thrown off. The coil strength increase was enough for it to skim over that area it was hitting. Glad you got it working properly again.

#1187 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

There is a much better tool available (at least for the IPhone - not sure if it’s available for Android) for leveling your pin. It’s called PinGuy. It’s made for leveling pins. When you put it on the playfield it speaks so you can get under the pin and level it. It will say something like “Back -3 high, left and right level” and keeps speaking until it’s set right. I believe that it defaults to 6.5 degrees. Once you have leveled the playfield you can then put the glass back on the pin and put the phone on the glass. Then tap “Learn Glass” and it will learn what the glass is like when the pin is level so that the next time you use it for that pin you can just put it on the glass instead of on the playfield. It keeps a database for each of your pins. It’s great! I think that it’s free as well.

That's a super invention and completely makes sense. It is something that has always been needed and the "Learn Glass" is a smart idea!

#1202 1 year ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Ok. How do we fix that?

Just trying to go back to basics just in case it's something simple. Try clearing out all of the balls out of the machine and make sure you have the correct amount. Once the balls are all out power down and back on the machine. Then check to see if you are getting the ball jam error. If not then load then back in and hopefully that will get you going. If it's still on when all balls are out then try dcfan solder suggestion.

Let us know how it goes.

#1206 1 year ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Ok. How do we fix that?

Did you end up getting it fixed for the party?

#1208 1 year ago

Sorry to hear that. It must have been torture. Were you able to determine the issue?

#1215 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Sometimes mine throws to pops /skill shot area and sometimes to upper flipper. Then it also just drops it sometimes

So far mine seems to do the same, and seems random so far but it may not be.

#1222 1 year ago
Quoted from woody76:

It is the cutout causing the issue but it happens so rarely I don't worry about it. I play 4 hours on mine Friday night and it only happened twice. It only happens on the screamer right ramp shots.

Same scenario for my machine it's not enough to address "yet"

#1223 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I had rejects to both left and right when I first got it. On the right, I think the cutout from the left loop was causing it. I put some adhesive felt just under the cutout which seems to force the ball away from the cutout. I'll take a photo tonight or tomorrow. Whatever was causing it, the felt (was actually the soft side of adhesive Velcro) seemed to do the trick and I don't get rejects anymore.

That would be great if you could post a pic of what worked for you. Thanks!

#1232 1 year ago

Truly a work of art in design, quality, flow, design, shots, light show, and rules. Really hard not to like any and all of these aspects.

#1255 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

So here's where I put the felt for the right ramp hang. I still get a very occasional reject, but has definitely helped. I've used the soft side of adhesive Velcro. Its at the very start of the right ramp flap, under where the clear left ramp meets the wireform. It's at ball height - where the ball rolls along the ball guide, just before the left loop entrance. I had to partially remove the left ramp wireform to access. Hope it helps.

Thanks for posting this as I wasn't sure where you had put it. That is super helpful and I may need to consider something like this if the frequency of the issue continues.

#1256 1 year ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Finally figured out the problem with the balls coming out endlessly. The 4pin connector about 4 inches from the through boards was loose. It looked connected at first, just gave it a little tug and it clicked. Good news is game plays as it should....Bad News is I went to bed at 1am last night because I couldn't stop playing LOL

That's excellent news and glad you got it all going!

#1293 1 year ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Can someone explain where to find the Director's Cut?? I've looked in the manual, went through settings on the pin...can't seem to find. Thanks!

Quoted from romulusx:

Ditto on this would also like to know

Here is how to get into the Settings menu to install the "Director's Cut". I hope this helps!

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#1328 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Thanks is it easy to change back if you don’t dig it?

Yes you can go back and install "Medium" and that is back to the the original factory settings. See the screenshot below and it shows that that they all match back up (this is after a fresh 1.5v install too).

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#1330 1 year ago

Check out this new voice synchronization with the GI and the Mechanic flasher when multiball starts. This is a new feature in version 1.5v, very cool!

#1331 1 year ago
Quoted from zucot:

Is the monitor supposed to lock into those latches? am I supposed to remove the wood blocks installed above the latches so that they pegs can slide them up and lock into place?

I posted this up earlier, this may help you so that you don't have to scroll through to find it. For anyone that needs to access their computer boards, fuses, wiring, monitor. Here is a tip, the tower is now in the backbox (unlike WOZ) and in order to access the boards you must unlock the monitor and it swings out on an articulating arm to give you quick easy access. Here are a few pics showing the wooden stoppers on each side they need to be loosened and pull out of the way. There is no need to remove them, but just rotate them so that you can lift the metal gate on each side to release the monitor. Then just pull the monitor out and you have easy access to all the goodies in the back.

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#1336 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

For Ron.

Look at it. Sticking up there like it’s flipping me off. Same to you, door mech.

Thanks for posting that as I think this really clarifies where to make the adjustment if needed.

#1386 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Ok, so here's an issue I'm having, which I haven't seen discussed before. Maybe I missed it. Hopefully there's an easy, low-tech fix?
Any low frequency (bass) sounds cause my cabinet to rattle and vibrate quite loudly. Specifically, it mostly seems to be coming from the left side rail. If I pull the glass forward just a bit, so it's not fully inserted into the cabinet's rear glass channel, the left side rail stops making the rattling noise.....but of course, I can't insert the lockdown bar like this. As soon as I slide the glass all the way back into the rear glass channel, that left side rail starts rattling like a snake whenever the game's audio plays any low frequencies. I'm not blasting the volume, either. I always keep it between 22-24.
Actually, I can get it to make this ugly rattling noise without the game even being on. Merely tapping on the rear glass channel will cause that left side rail to start rattling. With the game audio playing, it's just rattles that much louder!
It's really annoying. None of my other pins do this.
At first, I thought I had a blown speaker, but I soon discovered the sound was coming from the cabinet itself.
Anyone's thoughts are greatly appreciated!!!! <3

I would check inside the bottom of the cabinet to see if one of the holes are blocked with something. It seems like sound pressure build up that you are experiencing and it's trying to escape but can't until the glass is open. Just a guess. Maybe take a peek around and see if something is covering an opening in the bottom of the cabinet. I'm not near my machine right now to see where it's ported. Maybe pull it away from the wall a bit if it's coming out the back. Just some guesses.

#1487 1 year ago

Just an observation that may be the case and could help others:

I noticed that when I upgraded from 1.13 to 1.5 that my Theater magnet started dropping the balls SDTM very often however after many games to seem to get "smart" and started to correct itself. Now it consistently drops them to the tip of the right flipper. I "almost" started going into the settings to change the magnet setting but figured I would test this theory out and it seems to have resolved itself.

This reminds me of the logic built into Monster Bash and its Phantom Flip where it learns if it misses the shots and then adjusts, or like Thing in Addams Family. It seems to make sense that JJP would build this into its game. Anyone else experience this?

#1490 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Do you still have Mylar over your magnet? It could be wearing slightly and changing how the magnet grabs and releases it.

It's still on there but I don't think that the limited number game (maybe 10) would be enough to change the dynamics enough. Either way I'm happy with the results I just don't know for sure how they came about. I thought this might be helpful for others out there to see if they might just wait a few games to see if it goes away like mine.

1 week later
#1555 1 year ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Seeing how the cab comes with the metal protectors on it, do most of you also use the felt protectors that are provided for the legs?? I didn't use mine because I found they stuck out from the leg too much. Having said this, if its going to protect the cab from any damage then I may have to reconsider. Thoughts, comments??

I have not used them and it seems to be fine so far.

#1558 1 year ago

It definitely is a good thing to have them on for sure, mine just did not have them when I received it from the previous owner.

#1566 1 year ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

I have the felt on mine. Earlier owners reported cabinet damage from the legs without the felt that's why they started including them.

That's good to know and tells me I should get some felt protectors for it as it's an earlier LE in the 300's.

#1574 1 year ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Can anyone explain the basic rules of the game....

Also it does an excellent job verbally and visually walking you through the game as you play. So if you are new to it you can feel very comfortable knowing what to do. One of the many nice things the developers did.

#1583 1 year ago
Quoted from JMK:

I haven't yet updated to 1.5 yet; but noticed a strange thing recently:
I reached & played Showdown and upon completion of the mode, my phone display screen went dark/blank.
For the balance of the game, the phone screen display didn't turn back on.
When I finished the game, I turned the game off and back on; and the screen/display returned back to normal, functioning as it should.
This hasn't happened on any other mode or during regular gameplay. It's also the third time I've reached Showdown and the screen never went blank before.
Has anyone else had this issue?

I have not had that specifically happens but in the 1.46 update notes(which is in public 1.5) in the change log they do mention this screen blanking on restart was fixed but it does not state it's related to Showdown however it could be related and might have fixed that too possibly. It's worth updating to 1.5 as it has many quality updates, enhancements, and fixes.

#1628 1 year ago

Metal versus wood/paint, eventually metal wins so cliffys are an excellent choice.

#1694 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Thanks for this btw. Seems like pulling teeth around here to get any rules descriptions on the game and this is the first insight that shows the game does incorporate the disasters into the mb. Good stuff.

Here are two excellent videos that you can watch that are very helpful with explaining the rules:

#1721 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Nah, just felt like calling you out for once since it's not the first time ive seen you thumbs down someone for unwarranted reasons (plus im bored so i actually had the time to post about it). But since you keep dodging the question, ill leave it alone for now.
Back to the topic at hand. I am a big fan of Dialed In; the game shoots and is integrated so well. Love this pin and it's such a cool timeless pinball theme IMO. One thing i love about JJP games is how they tie in the color inserts to rules and such; especially for things like Crazy Bob or Crystal Ball (WOZ). They're attention to detail is top notch. Hope to own another jjp in the near future.
I do have another question, hopefully it doesnt get me another thumbs down (*chuckle* only kidding TheLaw ) - but i notice the crazy bob trap door seems to be one of the biggest issues with the game. What's the overall consensus of this mech, is it just a typical pinball pain with easy resolution or have people really been having a serious problem getting this mech to work consistently?

You are correct the game shoots extremely well and the theme is surely timeless. Crazy Bob is a great addition that is a tribute to the old Bally Williams games. So far on my LE I have not had any issues with the Crazy Bob mech on my personal machine. I did buy it from a previous owner and do not know if they fixed/adjusted it or not. Seems easily fixed as there are a couple helpful posts on here that will help get you going in case you run into problems.

#1722 1 year ago
Quoted from jwilson:

Once I oiled mine it's been flawless. That's generally the consensus.

Yes, agreed that seems to be taking care of most of them. Easy fixes are always appreciated!

#1724 1 year ago
Quoted from KirboTurbo:

yes, sorry, i get a message that says Check matrixed switch #19, SIM CARD Scoop Enter (stuck open). I am also having trouble with the phone scoop not registering. If i gently roll the ball in, it registers. if it is a hard shot, it won't register. I will check to see if the two opto switches are swapped.

Let me know if you need any help on that as I can take pics or test it on my machine. You can reply to my email earlier that you sent if you would like too. I am sure it's something little that can easily be fixed.

#1734 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

I almost wish the midfield magnets would pulse slowly after a theater drop to pull the ball off center.

That's very good suggestion I like it!! They could update the software to have the logic to do that if too many SDTMs register or something along those lines. Sort of like Phantom Flip on MB or thing on TAF, it adjust accordingly.

Quoted from snaroff:

Does that imply you are getting bitten by "catch and release" drains as well? Trying to understand if it's a problem with my machine. If all machines are behaving like mine, I'd imagine there would be more complaints. My son and I have been playing this machine a lot and it's odd...some games it behaves, and some games it's nasty. Very intermittent...sometimes it does appears to pulse and sends it to the left flipper and sometimes is does a straight release.
Based on Ted's comments in this thread, it doesn't appear the software is doing anything special (https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/jersey-jack-pinball-woz/F_TTrGjIixo).

When I updated to v1.5 I started having that issue with them draining in the middle but prior to that no issues. After a few games though it went away and went back to normal. It almost seemed as though the game software adjusted accordingly but it's nothing I can confirm. I do know that mine goes to the right flipper tip and not the left. In fact I don't think it ever has. Maybe one thing to check is to see if your magnet is secure under the playfield. It may need tightening possibly but that is just a guess. Others have been able to fix issues with removing the Mylar.

I would be more than happy to take pics of mine if you feel alignment is an issue under the playfield etc.

I hope this helps!!

1 week later
#1851 1 year ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

Ver 1.52 is out
== Jersey Jack Pinball, Inc. ==
== Presents ==
== Dialed In ==
== http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/ ==
== Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/JerseyJackPinball ==
== Support Portal: http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com ==
== Company Twitter: @JJPinball ==
== Software Department Twitter: @JJPSoftware ==
== Copyright � 2017 Jersey Jack Pinball, Inc. ==
Comments, questions, and/or bug reports? Ask @JJPSoftware, which is monitored
and responded by humans.
Issues with your game?
Please open a ticket: http://support.jerseyjackpinball.com
== Legend ==
+ Addition * Change/bugfix - Note
== Version 1.52 November 30, 2017 ==
=== Game Code
* Fixed score display bug triggered by tilting in a multi-player game
* Fixed Chaos Multiball becoming unavailable after player a Quick Multiball
* Fixed a crash bug that happens when Big Bang difficulty is changed
+ Added adjustment for Theater Magnet catch behavior
=== Core Code
* Fixed audio mixing issue that resulted in distorted sounds
* Fixed ball tracking error caused by losing ball from lockup during ballsaver
+ Added CUSTOMIZATION sub-menu under UTILITIES in Diagnostics
* Changed timing of Self Test Report display at power up
== Version 1.50 October 31, 2017 ==
Tilting in a multi-player game can cause the other player's score display to
run up forever. (This is a display issue, not a scoring problem.)
Starting a Quick Multiball when Chaos in Quantum City is lit can take away
the chance to play Chaos in Quantum City.
=== Game Code
+ Added Test Report message for BT dongle not present
* Updated some choreography for Chaos in Quantum City mode
+ Added design team selfies in attract mode
* Added some new graphics and sound effects
* Fixed Crazy Mode display effects hanging around during wizard modes
=== Core Code
+ Added check for switches stuck closed/open at power up
+ Added check for any opto switch working at power up; multiball devices will
not kick if no opto switch working
+ Added display message at power up if Test Report error detected
* Trough will abandon kicking after a while
+ Added check for all trough switches closed (including jam); trough will not
kick when this condition detected (likely a failure of the trough board);
game will not start during this condition, and a Trough Error message is
* Multiball devices will abandon kicking with coin door open now; abandoned
devices will kick when door is closed
* Turned on Test Report "dot" Paid Play preset

Thank you for the update on this, that's awesome news!!

Pin Stadium

#1854 1 year ago
Quoted from woody76:

No doubt. This is my first JJP and the code support is amazing.

Fully agree!

1 week later
#1955 1 year ago
Quoted from Jpp718:

Thank you it was actually was set too high I lowered it

Good deal and glad that got you going.

#1973 1 year ago

It sounds like the leaf switch by the rubber in the Drone area on the right is touching and needs to be bent back out and adjusted. I think that will fix it.

#1975 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Does anyone happen to know what this issue may be? Everything looks fine from what I can tell.

Did that get the error message cleared for you with the info that I posted and the more detailed response that vireland put up?

#1976 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Finally got a chance to pull my machine out last night and put some work into it. Got the following done:
- Adjusted diverter switch, so game always starts with mechanics arm up as intended.
- Sprayed some lube on trap door mech so now it opens/closes.
- Cut the mylar off magnets (they were already starting to bubble after less than 100 games).
- Replaced JJP phone/SIM protectors with Cliffys (WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!).
- Installed shooter lane Cliffy.
With all of these things done, I'm finally able to play and enjoy the game, and after installing 1.50, WOW! Game is packed with some serious fun! The light shows are insane!

Agreed!! The GI controls and effects of the lighting are so superb and they stepped it up even more with these latest updates. Really sets the bar!

#1980 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

I bent the switches back a bit, and now when I boot up my game, I get the notification to press "enter" for error report, but when I do, it just shows a blank page on my screen. No longer shows the switch error, but for some reasons, it's telling me there is an error? Anyone know what that might be?

Okay good you were able to get that cleared. When I did mine I had the same screen come up a couple times too and then eventually it went away after a couple boots.

#1989 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I had the same really annoying issue. Here are some software setting Ted Estes added to help...taken directly from the JJP Google Group topic.
New in software release 1.52, added adjustment "Theater Magnet Catch Behavior" with the following settings:
- NORMAL: Theater magnet behaves EXACTLY how it did in Release 1.50 and earlier.
- PARTIAL: Removes the "catch and release" behavior. Ball will not be caught on the magnet, except for Drone Mystery and Showdown.
- OFF: Removes both the "catch and release" and "catch and toss". Ball will be caught on the magnet for Showdown only.
- TEST LAB: Replaces "catch and release" with "catch and wiggle". This is experimental code and is subject to change. If you don't like how it works, don't use it.
If your game tends to drop the ball between the flippers after being caught on the Theater magnet, try these steps (in order):
1. Adjust the playfield side-to-side pitch slightly by extending the right front leg leveler a small amount. The goal is to have the ball drop to the left flipper.
2. Change the "Theater Magnet Catch Behavior" to TEST LAB and see how that works for your game.
3. Change the "Theater Magnet Catch Behavior" to PARTIAL.
4. Change the "Theater Magnet Catch Behavior" to OFF.
If you don't feel like messing with the magnet and it just annoys you, set "Theater Magnet Catch Behavior" to OFF.

That’s excellent info thanks for posting this up.

#2003 1 year ago

The Theater drop for me goes to the tip of the right flipper

#2026 1 year ago
Quoted from Bigbossfan:

Yes we did that. But looks like Frank (JJP Support) and I figured out the problem. Just spent over an hour on the phone with him trouble-shooting.
Wasn't the IO board at all. Don't know how we ended up checking connectors around the ball trough but when I wiggled the wires machine started acting funky. Aha moment. So, there is the one connector coming off the ball trough, it's about 5 inches long, then plugs into another connector. Apparently JJP has been having issues with this one. Frank said that the errors I was having masked that this could be the root cause of it.
All this to say, pin is working for now, but they're sending me out a replacement connector. Hopefully no one else runs into this issue, but if they do....now you know the cause!

Very very good news and we all hoped it was simple. I’m sure you will be busy tonight!

3 weeks later
#2360 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Could somebody please provide a picture of the wire that goes into the connector on the motherboard highlighted in the picture (its a picture of the CPU-unit in the backbox and its right bottom corner).
I have had to dismantle my dialed in in order to be able to carry it downstairs and it seems that orientation of the wire connected to this connector was not documented.

These are ones for had saved from the Pin Stadium install instructions. Does this help?

F7EB2A40-DA7C-4471-8E77-B38C2677CBAB (resized).jpeg

6DAE7176-6542-4D86-97D4-545088B907C2 (resized).jpeg

A9705D8F-36B9-4A5D-A3B9-D9CB65078E11 (resized).jpeg

950A0FBE-F630-4220-A71B-7DF76641910D (resized).jpeg

07C4F466-567A-4BE2-A5FA-794157CEDC5E (resized).jpeg

#2361 1 year ago

The more I look at my pics it doesn’t seem like they will help as you are looking for the connections behind this metal area? PM me and I can see if I can take a pic of that if you have not figured it out already.

FEC06907-CA02-4472-9497-DCB0A90EF130 (resized).jpeg

#2363 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Thanks! I found the right orientation, since there was a pin missing in the connector and I found out that correspondingly no wire went to the corresponding connector to be attached there. However, there must be now some other reason for my headphones not working - it must be the other connector near the coin door then, I will investigate.

Okay let me know.

1 week later
#2482 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

What’s this? Getting my game Friday.

Congrats tomorrow on your new DI, that’s exciting!!

#2484 1 year ago
Quoted from venom112:

I did the same thing nothing wrong with making the game more fun that’s why they make the rules adjustable.

Same here too.

#2487 1 year ago
Quoted from estrader:

Just got my dialed in set up and the start button didn’t work, seems I have fixed th issue for now.
My big problem is every time the ball goes in the cell phone hole, SIM card hole or up the left orbit the machine has to search for the ball and I get no credit for the shot either. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem?

Sounds like that the connector for those is unplugged. I would check under the playfield first but it’s possible that something got loose during shipping in the backbox where the boards reside. thelaw is right it’s all optos in there so should be something simple like a plug.

#2507 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Check the cable inside the cabinet at the front, and if that's connected, open the box in the head with the computer motherboard and make sure the audio connection is plugged in there and didn't come loose.

Yes it is going to be either one of these two places to check. If you need to get in the back here are some pics and tips The monitor is in front of some of the computer goodies you need access to. There are some wooden lock in supports you need to loosen in order to swing it out. I hope this helps.

6E29A965-63BC-4192-B552-D2DB2BE7B830 (resized).jpeg

12122BD5-2C20-428D-BBD3-FB04236E0392 (resized).jpeg

A1DC0CAE-DF31-4D80-B24A-F72405FA29B5 (resized).jpeg

492B1928-E511-46C5-AA6D-856D6752B9E8 (resized).jpeg

F25F4DA8-47BA-4672-BD6A-49E0EE684A27 (resized).jpeg

72924DEA-DABE-4339-BC09-8AF619B87DFA (resized).jpeg

#2585 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Million thanks for the advice!
First of all, this was not JJP:s fault - I had to carry the pin downstairs and I had disconnected these connectors and it seems I did not do a through job in putting them back: 1) the connector in the backbox apparently had missed some pins - it is just a pain to put the connector back there, the spot is tight! And 2) also the connector at the coin door apparently was reversed as I first had sound only in the other headphone speaker. I turned it around and now its working beautifully. I took some pics - this is the orientation of the connectors that work in my pin, in case anyone needs them for reference.

Awesome and you are welcome. Glad you got it going and that’s great you posted up these pics for other that may need to know how the orientation goes on that plug.

#2642 1 year ago

Same here the screw blocks it a but as you can see in the picture of mine they are all on around the bottom edge of the bezel where it catches the light.

2C00CB95-787C-451E-A82B-8C26A99B5CE6 (resized).jpeg

#2653 1 year ago

Those look incredible and they compliment the game perfectly!! Thanks for posting these up.

#2677 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Hi guys, just received LE #822. So far we love it! One issue though.
About 50% of the times I power up the machine, the sub-woofer doesn't work, and has a continuous popping sound. Usually if I power cycle it from there it starts to work fine.
Anyone seen this? Is there a fix?

The popping sounds is normal, almost sounds like a knock. When do you notice the subwoofer not working or how are you testing it?

2 weeks later
#2876 1 year ago
Quoted from Spankey:

I’m finally and officially in!!

Congrats and welcome!!! Those are two really nice pins to have next to each other. Many hours of enjoyment!!

#2890 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Maybe different thickness depending on type of mirrorblade?

Yes there are some mirror blades that are a little thicker than others and that would definitely make for an issue. Can anyone recommend the thinnest quality brands that you feel have excellent clearance?

#2898 1 year ago
Quoted from Butch2099:

I just joined the club! Happy I waited because the machine came with new style protectors. Packaged very well also.
The game looks great! The only problems I have had so far is the start button assembly wasn't put in the button (easy fix), when I tried to slide the playfield back in place I didn't realize there was a big foam block in the back (took some figuring out).
The only problem I need to keep an eye on is on a couple of games I got a signal lost message on the screen & it went blank & into power saver mode. I assume it's a loose connection somewhere? It's working at the moment but would appreciate any tips on where to look if it happens again.

Congratulations and welcome! It sounds like the monitor video cable is loose and likely just needs pushed back in a little more. I would check both ends of it. So where it goes in the monitor and the other end going into the composite.

It’s all located in your backbox and the monitor swings out but you have a couple wooden locks on each top left and right corner you will need to loosen a little. This will allow you to unlock the monitor mounts and swing it towards you. Then just below that to the right is the computer.

Here are some pics.

C3517A99-2842-4014-AF2E-FB8F47E11F48 (resized).jpeg

D0011D2F-0B5D-4F80-A824-1E9E31EE9FC8 (resized).jpeg

FE6649A6-7FEA-4C3E-8A52-457D92BF6AE5 (resized).jpeg

7C501429-FCF6-4A0E-9EBD-CBED0ECC6B2D (resized).jpeg

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