If you are playing the game in a dark room the camera won't pick it up. This is not a joke.

Looks like a 12v power tap. I know Mezel Mods sells them for people to add powered mods. I bought one recently. Mezel's are fused so this may be a homemade one maybe.

I have them both. DI Standard (Made that choice because there was no play difference between standard and LE and couldn't justify the upcharge) and a Wonka CE. The Wonkavator device was a must for me personally so standard was out and because of the theme I decided to pay an outrageous sum of money for a CE (momentary lapse of reason and impulsive. I'd get an LE if I had a do-over)
I like them both for different reasons. I like them both because they are Pat Lawlor as well. Wonka is the choice in my opinion if you just want to play and play without ever having to feel like you have to do something. It's a friendly game that you don't really feel pressured to do anything but slap the ball around. Plenty of stuff going on with multiballs and fun displays scenes, audio/callouts, light shows etc... and I never get tired of continuously hitting the start button again and again.
Dialed In is a little more goal oriented and of course you can knock the ball around all day as well but it seems there's more of a nudge to get things done and complete this or that. That is equally as entertaining and I have no problem hitting the start button over and over again on that one as well. Matter of fact I'm waiting on pin blades to dress it up and then I can install my pinstadium I bought from Scott. I wouldn't have done that had I not really liked the game.
Both games are keepers. Dialed in Standard or Wonka LE would be my choice if I was doing it again. DI SE is $8000.00 Wonka LE is $9500.
Only you can make the actual decision of what you want in a pinball game. Wonka has more attraction in my opinion with the whole visual package but is it worth the extra 1500 to YOU. Wonka Standard wasn't even an option for me due to being a different game in my opinion, so that's how I have to look at it now. I personally don't like the tiered pinball options manufacturers offer.
If I had to choose only one it would be Willy Wonka for me personally. So it boils down to your taste and your style of play and what you want from the game experience. We cannot make this decision for you. But as suggested by the others if you can get to a WW somewhere and put some time in that's the only way you won't be left wondering what if.....
Best wishes and if you have any follow on questions about either game, keep asking.
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maybe Barry can help with this. [email protected]

Yes. There are settings in the diagnostic/tests to control the amount high or low. We all have ours set at different settings for what works best for us. You may or may not have to adjust. Quick story. I had mine(theater magnet strength) set at around 105 and performed an upgrade at some point but apparently didn't play it for a while after. Life goes on and hadn't played since we were moving. One day I'm playing and notice the theater magnet is grabbing the ball but rather than tossing it forward it just kind of glitches and releases the ball so it falls to flippers. Its doing this every time and I'm thinking here we go. I look to make sure the mylar isn't causing the issue etc.. I let this go on for numerous times after until I finally decide to check the settings and sure enough the JJP software upgrade changed the strength to 150 from my 105. I lowered it back to where it was tossing it correctly to the upper flipper and now it opchecks 4.0(old navy guys will get that ref)
So..... Plan on some minor setting changes. Flipper and vuk coil strength and possibly Bob's trap door issues and maybe some cutting the mylar around the magnets in the near future after you get your game. Rest assured whatever it is, post it up here immediately and we'll get you going in the right direction.
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Mike

You'll want to read this thread posted below for possible fixes. Seems there are a few things they may have caused this issue. Foam, actual lock bar on the lock too long, wood needing to be trimmed, and or loosening screws on the lock mech and shift and tighten back. One thing though, if you decide to remove the speaker panel which is the easiest way to see what's going on make sure you have another set of hands to help support and hold things. Don't force anything at any time and be patient.
Link:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/di-cant-get-into-my-backbox

More or less it looks very similar. Handle to the right when you open the coin door pulls to the left and lockdown bar lifts up.

If you do want to go that route and don't feel like making(youtube) or buying a degaussing tool https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/magnetized-balls-problem-solved-cheaply or don't have a soldering iron to try. put this in the search in that one massive market place that you bid on or sell stuff. 25 1-1/16" Inch Mirror Finish Carbon Steel Replacement Pinball Machine Pinballs.
Don't overthink this too much. I've never had a pinball magnetization problem, ever. I replace or polish pinballs to get the nicks out but i've never replaced one because of a magnetizing situation causing issues. Maybe i'm too dumb to know what the issues are. This is a possibility and not ruling it out.

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Mike

I put Cliffy's Universal Switch Slot Protectors under where both balls drop from the rail forms to the inlanes. They are expensive as heck but they will do the trick on this game.
I imagine when you say upper playfield up top you mean that flat piece above the pops where it goes in that hole or on the flat plastic when diverter is down?
If so that's a lot of mylar to cover. Maybe directly under the hole I guess but I don't see the drop off of the plastic ever hitting the same spot with any consistency like the wire forms. Check to see if some is already in the area. JJP is pretty decent at putting factory mylar in some high traffic areas and it blends way better than aftermarket.

If you feel it's something that you want to personally do to further protect your investment then definitely do so. I know Marco has some really sizeable mylar choices because I bought some years ago for some of my older titles. Lots of choices. Make sure the area is very clean, no dust around and don't handle the mylar with your fingers. Use tweezers or a knife edge etc.... I personally put a coat of wax down on the area and buff it off prior to application.
I'm not marketing for this company, I just know they have it. I'm sure many other reputable pinball supply establishments offer similar products at equally fair prices.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PFLD-MYLAR
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Mike

Comet.

https://www.cometpinball.com/
prices are already very reasonable but if you watch a couple of the big streaming pinball guys you can usually find a promo code.

Coil strength is a personal choice. If you bought this used then it's possible the original owner tuned it to their liking.
So just start adding to the upper flipper strength 1 at a time until you are satisfied. I actually lowered mine as well as my main flippers.
Yes. Turn phone kickout down. I've never had that happen personally.
Code can be seen on boot up or enter the diagnostics screen and check the bottom right corner. Full is 1.60 and delta is 1.73.
https://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/

maybe this helps
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only/page/12#post-5267214

You are literally describing the fix. A lot of us have had the issue. Remove speaker box screws and either adjust and tighten lock, bend lock arm, trim wood, etc...
I think it's described a couple pages back recently.

found this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/di-cant-get-into-my-backbox
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Mike

only thing close I know about was from this guy 5 years ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/illuminated-flipper-bats

just located this one from 7 years ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-mod-illuminated-flipper-bats

if it's out of warranty you can get one here.
https://www.pinballlife.com/trap-door-assembly.html

From the factory. My phone has never been removed.

20210212_175737 (Large) (resized).jpg

I'm gonna jump in with an assist on this one because I happen to be perusing the site.

Start here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/105#post-4562448

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/105#post-4565687

That's where the issue will be resolved either by plugging, as Lloyd says, or manipulation of the metal.

more:
Clip was made for it in this thread
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/181#post-5191590
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/181#post-5195393

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Mike

Here you go. I put neos on when I had mine.

Here's where Scott's thread on dialed in starts.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/18#post-4038653

Here's my thread with pictures.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-pin-stadium-lights-official-announcement/page/129#post-5885896