(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

2 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (2 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (2 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (1 year ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (1 year ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (1 year ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (1 year ago)

Post #1253 Velcro fix for right ramp hangup Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1258 Detailed pictures for adjusting a misbehaving trap door Posted by foobeer (1 year ago)

Post #1332 Getting access to computer in backbox on Dialed In Posted by hank527 (1 year ago)

Post #1347 Ball trap location. Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1377 Fix for USB at the coin door not working Posted by Pinhead1982 (1 year ago)

Post #1391 Fix for Tilt Bob not working all of a sudden Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1431 Adjustment point to grease for trap door to operate smoothly Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1451 Adjusting arm on Quantum Mechanic Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #2507 How to get in backbox to check audio connections Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #2661 DIY Lighting how-to for sides of Dialed In backglass Posted by lyonsden (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#76 2 years ago

Le and ce get printed manuals but they are not ready. They will ship separatelyper Jack.

#80 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Shipping without everything ready....sounds aboot right these days.

Everything ready is best, but it's available in the game itself and online. I'll take a missing manual and a mode complete game every time over a manual and a mode incomplete game. Waiting a year on a manual no big deal, I can still play. Waiting a year for real software, that's bull shit.

#83 2 years ago
Quoted from Mfsrc791:

Don't listen to him, he's not verified

Never have been, never will be.

2 months later
#597 1 year ago
Quoted from tryton1000:

Hi all, I have the playfield protector on my LE, Every now and again, a ball will get trapped behind the right orbit flipper. Has anyone else had this issue? If so what would be the best way to fix it? Thanks in advance!

Best and easiest fix, take of the stupid protector and play the game on the field like it's designed for. It's a game.

2 weeks later
#819 1 year ago
Quoted from brucipher:

So - what is the magnet by the drones used for? In the 20 or so games I've played on the machine, I don't think I've seen it do much. Does it stop and catch the ball at some point?

No drone magnet catching in the code, no idea if there are plans to. I don't see a reason to. Currently when the ball hits either leaf switch, maybe drone target, not sure, it will trigger the magnet which pulls the balls towards the core, it released after a quick pulse to toss the ball sort of like if those were slingshots. I've had it tossed up the center ramp and theater. numerous times. Pulse length might be related to how hard the such it hit. Harder hit, switch is closed longer, pulls is stronger and toss is stronger. Might be in my head though. But it does seem to toss softer on light hits than hard ones.

#825 1 year ago
Quoted from brucipher:

So - what is the magnet by the drones used for? In the 20 or so games I've played on the machine, I don't think I've seen it do much. Does it stop and catch the ball at some point?

No drone magnet catching in the code, no idea if there are plans to. I don't see a reason to. Currently when the ball hits either leaf switch, maybe drone target, not sure, it will trigger the magnet which pulls the balls towards the core, it released after a quick pulse to toss the ball sort of like if those were slingshots. I've had it tossed up the center ramp and theater. numerous times. Pulse length might be related to how hard the such it hit. Harder hit, switch is closed longer, pulls is stronger and toss is stronger. Might be in my head though. But it does seem to toss softer on light hits than hard ones.

Quoted from Pinballomatic:Marvin / when you roll the drone inlane and immediately hit the drone standup the magnet locks the ball snd finishes your drone lights

I must suck, I have not seen that yet, so I must have failed that shot many times.

#837 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Marvin / when you roll the drone inlane and immediately hit the drone standup the magnet locks the ball snd finishes your drone lights

Hmm I did some glass off testing and I do not get a catch on that magnet. I get all the lights to come on.

1 week later
#1038 1 year ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Your upper flipper is way way off,it should be back all the way,how do you make the right orbit

He's showing it in the extended position.

1 week later
#1372 1 year ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

My tilt bob stopped registering entirely. I've never had this happen on any game I've owned. Connections seem fine. This happen to anyone else?

Appears a former person from here answered this elsewhere and won't come here to answer. Check the other logical places.

#1387 1 year ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

My tilt bob stopped registering entirely. I've never had this happen on any game I've owned. Connections seem fine. This happen to anyone else?

ryanwanger, I won't verify, no pms to be sent. The info isn't mine, if they wanted it here they'd probably post it here. Check the obvious tech support places.

#1395 1 year ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

I don’t see DI protectors on cliffys site. Is ordering those an ‘email him’ situation?


#1396 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

If it's like the other people with this issue it's a connection issue at the actual tilt mechanism. Check tightness of all screws and continuity from the tilt ring back to the wire leaving the mechanism.


#1397 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Just installed my cliffy protectors, replacing the JJP ones. Was getting so many rejects from both scoops with the JJP ones on, that the game was almost unplayable. The Cliffy ones are perfect - almost as good as without any. No rejects at all now.
Also, when I replaced the sim scoop protector, I replaced the white rubbers with much smaller ones. The hole is still hard to hit off the top Flipper, but no where near as hard as it was.

Play better.

2 weeks later
#1632 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I don't buy that logic. Stern clearcoat have to deal with the same "environmental ingredient bans" and I've owned plenty of their pins with MANY plays. None have ever chipped in this fashion. The hole design is badly flawed if many PF's are being damaged with so few plays. Not trying to get into a Stern vs. JJP argument, just reminding you that this damage is highly unusual. This type of damage after 4 months and 76 plays is manufacturer defect...plain and simple. Has nothing to do with the chemical composition of clear!

So it appears that anything on a pin you have a problem with is a design flaw. Thicker clears chip, eventually the wood will wear too. Look at old MBs and AFMs. Play and enjoy your game.

#1763 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

I know how optos work.
If multiple people are having problems out of the box (and they are), it's not "just fine". I remotely helped another new owner spend over an hour adjusting it until it worked yesterday. This is not a one off problem. It's a crappy switch choice. We had rotary dial phones at one time. They were used for decades and WORKED JUST FINE. Should we go back to them?
And even if there's no room for an opto, there are other solutions like proximity sensors. Anything but that crap switch.

Funny, that's what Jack did when I asked about the weird placement in person. Literally shrugged and said Pat wanted it there. It's not the only solution for placement, and having done plenty of custom overseas manufacture, I sincerely doubt the cost at quantity for that WoZ door was "outrageous."

The fact that you have an issue and 4 other people out of 800 or so games does not show a systemic problem. The switch choice is fine. You sound like that sarnoff guy who thinks anything that's not the way he thinks it should be is a design flaw.

1 week later
#1893 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I love the "catch and toss" as well...mine is set to -120. Works great.
Glad to hear your example doesn't have the SDTM disease For my example, changing the pitch slightly didn't have an effect. Sure, I could change the pitch more than slightly and eventually the ball will avoid going SDTM, however that doesn't make sense to me (since it would negatively effect all other shots). Here are some photos/videos for anyone else experiencing my issue.
I'm using the "TEST LAB" option that Ted added in 1.52 and it seems to work better for me. I'd like to see both theatre magnet behaviors (release, toss) testable/configurable. This would make it easier to simulate/test what happens during gameplay. At the moment, only toss is testable/configurable.
On my machine, if I set the "catch and toss" behavior to 60, it simulates what I'd like to see for "catch and release". Delivers the ball to the tip of the right flipper 10 out of 10 times.

In spite of your insistence your game is level, it's probably not. Stop using a level or your phone. roll balls down the field, if they come down straight is level. A level will be off if it's not placed absolutely perfectly avoid the field. A small round level isn't terribly accurate. The ball rolling is accurate.

#1902 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I've always used levels in the past (with ~30-40 other pins). Never had an issue. I guess I can try an old school test on a new fangled pin and ignore what the levels are saying. I'm curious, did you have any issues with "catch and release"?

And how many of those pins caught and held the ball in a *very* dangerous spot like DI? A small amount out of level makes a difference.

#1903 1 year ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

The concern is that unless the level is exactly parallel to the playfield, the reading will be off. I have some very good levels but it has always frustrated me that there really is no way to determine parallel. Plus the accuracy of levels varies a lot. The longer the level, the easier it is to judge parallel. If you are using an accurate 12" master/starrett/similar level across the top of the slings, you have a much better chance of getting a good reading than the round one in your pic. Since most people don't have a $300-$1000 level, the rolling ball test is often the best way to determine level. (And I haven't even mentioned playfield twist where the top could list slightly to starboard, the bottom slightly to port.) Ain't nothin' easy.

This is the long winded version of what I said. Even if the level is placed on the top of the slings it's possible the slings are not perfectly even across the field. This is why I said roll a ball see where the ball moves. Longer levels are better but don't fit on pf's. Those round ones are pointless. Phones are not that accurate.

#1904 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I have 3 different levels. Please stop telling me I don't know how to measure/adjust.
You go out of your way to say moving the left ramp is a "hack", yet making the machine tilt to the left to accommodate "catch/release" is goodness.
I know you are probably well intentioned, but my issue isn't imagined or unique...other folks are having this issue! Catching and releasing a ball in the center of the PF is just wrong...especially since the magnet is capable of pulsing (like it does for "catch and toss").

Nudging sometimes works, but if you look closely at the video, it's not that close to the left flipper.
Geesh...I've demonstrated that I'm more than willing to work around issues (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialing-in-dialed-in-le-96), however if the software can do something that benefits everyone, then I'm going to speak up.

Never said you can't measure, never said lean your game to the left either. I said roll balls down it to check its level.
Drilling a new mounting hole in the ramp then forcing it to line up with the new hole, on the other hand is a hack.

#1906 1 year ago

Let's assume you have a super duper accurate level and you have it between the slings. And is placed dead nuts perfectly perpendicular to the games slope and it registers dead flat level side to side. I'll put money on it that you get a different reading in different places on the field. You'll never find a truly flat field. They ask have warp to a degree. They all sag under the weight of the crap hanging on them. Measure the pitch as high as you can on the field and as low as your can. You'll often get a half it more degree difference. Let the game to tell you when it's right

#1929 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

OMG...still babbling about the left ramp. I'm proud to have implemented a Pat Lawlor conceived hack! I have no doubt my left ramp shoots waaaay smoother than yours (assuming you own a DI, that is). If you don't own one, it's weird that you have such strong opinions. I reserve my strong opinions for stuff I have experience with
I'm convinced my SDTM drains occur when the pin is level. I've hosted pinball events in Cali & Florida with some pretty discriminating players/collectors...I know what I'm doing.
Catch/release for the spiral loop/orbit on TZ "works"...catch/release for a magnet in the center of the PF makes no sense to me. In 1.52, Ted Estes added a setting to "catch and wiggle" (TEST LAB) which adds some pulse/randomness to avoid the slow, painful SDTM drains of the original catch/release. On my example, it's working great. Games have been much more fun! Managed to achieve Chaos in Quantum City earlier
I also discovered that -60 tosses the ball reliably to my right flipper 10-of-10 times (via fiddling with the "Theatre Test Magnet" parameter).
If the center drains can be solved with software (rather than arcane/precise leveling), then it should be changed. Ted's "catch and toss" rocks...so cool. No reason the forward ball movement can't be made more reliable and fun. Simply releasing the ball when the QED guy isn't blocking it is asking for trouble...
Hard to know how many folks this effects, but I can tell you I've received a handful of PM's from folks that are having the same difficulty.

You're the one who bright the ramp hack back up. I responded to you. As for TZ, it's a completely different setup. Let me guess since you don't like the catch and release placement it's another "design flaw". The design is fine. As others have told you roll balls on the pf, that's the best way to level a game. A level will get you close but pfs are not perfect it's a game of making them work. I doubt your ramp works better than mine. Mines never had an issue and isn't hacked to work. The catch and release works on mine too. Have there been some drains yes. But not many and the can be saved usually I'd they are close to the flipper which they tend to be. "Arcane/precise leveling, wtf is that. Your always want a game level. If that's too much for you to do that's not a "design flaw" it's your bring too lazy to dial in your dialed in.

#1932 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

If there weren't an issue, what would motivate Ted to experiment with changing "catch and release" behavior?
Precise leveling means what you'd expect. Arcane leveling means raising one side to help move the ball in a particular direction. Use the online dictionary if you still have questions.
Lazy? Just the opposite. You seem to have anger management issues and love emoting and throwing stones. Whatever turns you on, man!

Ok so we've determined you have a comprehension problem (that means your don't understand things).
No. One. Has. Told. You. To. Roll. Balls. On. The. PF. To. Make. Sure. It. Is. Leaning. To. One. Side.

Multiple. People. Have. Suggested. Rolling. Balls. To. Make. Sure. It. Is. Level.

PFs. Are. Not. Perfect.

It. Is. Simple.

Extra stops added to try to slow you down so you actually might understand what is being said. But I doubt it will help.

#1936 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Take your meds, Marvin. Your tude is pathetic. You probably don't even own a Dialed In...you just like harassing me!

IDGAF about you personally. You came asking for help. Multiple people have made suggestions, you ignore them saying you know better, then complain of design flaws. Also please show me the online dictionary that has arcane leveling in it. Online references to it point to RPG's and character progression.
You're beyond help. I'll continue to try to help others, but there's no reason with you. I'll just enjoy my smooth shooting ramps and nice magnet releasing game, which I very much have.

1 week later
#2033 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yes, we all understand this now. The problem is JJP never told anyone.

WHAT??? They literally announced this at the reveal in Chicago. It was discussed here a bunch, I think they discussed it in the setup video they did, and it's right in the manual.

#2050 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Hahahaha. That's pretty good. You should run that idea by Jack!
But maybe you're not getting the point. If you have a sloped floor (which I do) and you try putting the levellers down, you almost have a flat pf. At that point it's not pinball, it's chess.
I wonder if PL came up with that idea, or those awesome protectors first?

They are well aware floors are not perfect, levers all in is the baseline put them all in then level the game and you'll be right around 6.5. If you have some obsession with the back leveled needing to be up then crank the front up the same amount and you will still be level but the whole game we'll be 3 inches higher.

#2060 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

fyi...this is what the TNA scoop looks like (copied the photo from a TNA thread). Don't know why pinball manufacturers don't standardize on this design (beveled edges, internal metal "Mantis" style). For new games, this is the best design...protects the PF and doesn't effect the ability to make the shot.

That's a dead standard scoop hole with a Mantis style protector. I don't know if Scott is using mantis, I assume so. If he is he likely did nothing more than make the hole 2x the mentors thickness wider to fine the desired hole size. Cliffys work with less interference than mantis in retrofits since the take up less hole spacesince they are so much thinner. That being said, mantis ones do also work really well and the diminished hole sizes make a game slightly harder which is always good, unless the player is a pansy who wants their games made easier.

#2070 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

The scoop in TNA basically has the interior "protector" built in. I drew this scoop up for Spooky a while back, and it has been used in The Jetsons already. The interior metal just sticks up into the scoop opening on the playfield, but does not quite go up all the way so it does not interfere with the chamfer of the playfield.
Here is what the scoop looks like outside of the game.

Cool, I haven't gone under the hood of TNA. It's basically got mantis built in. In this case you still control the hole size since you set the inside to the size that was wanted in jetsons. I don't mind mantis shrinking the holes slightly as it tightens up the shots a bit, but singe people don't like it. This eliminates that semi-issue.

#2100 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Happens every game? Wow. Definitely not normal. Open a ticket with JJP...

Are your f'ing serious. That's literally the point of the slings. It's almost like they designed them to move the ball sideways in an uncontrolled manner, and that slight upward angle of the it aims right toward the outlanes. Clearly that's a design flaw, I can't believe it happens like every single game. Definitely need to call JJP, I can't believe they released a flaw like this.

#2103 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Listen doofuss, I've played 300 games on DI and the slings aren't brutal *at all* compared with my other games (theatre is another story). Damien was complaining about his sling behavior and I'm simply saying I'm not experiencing the vast sling/side drains that he appears to be experiencing.
Rather than bully me with your BS, why don't you try and help the dude having the problem. Or better yet, stalk him and leave me alone!

Mighty high opinion of yourself is your think you're with being "stalked". Your comment to contact JJP because the slings send the ball into the outlanes is silly. That's what slings do, as others and myself said.

#2111 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

I just shook my head when reading some of the replies. I need a middle finger emotion.
But I do appreciate you actually trying to hear me out on this. I wasn't for a second thinking that drains from the slings were abnormal. But compared to any game I own or have played, it seems to happen much more frequently.
And that was all I was asking. Maybe JJP set the sling strength to high at the factory like CGC did with their flippers on AFMr.
It was simply a question...

Your question was fine, you didn't know the answer. The response that you need to contact the manufacturer was inane.

#2124 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Wrong again, Marvin.
I've owned several *recent* Stern pinball's with slings that occasionally throw the ball around unnaturally. By unnaturally, I mean take the ball AIRBORNE (often resulting in side drains). When Stern's pins exhibit this behavior, I've contacted Stern support for help. When Damien posted early this morning, that's what came to mind.
I've been a Pinside member for over 5 years. My location and collection history are fully disclosed. 2272 posts. I donate.
You have been a member for less than a year. No location. No pin history. 149 posts...many snarky comments to me in particular. No donation.
Have some respect, and if my advice to "Open a ticket with JJP..." is so annoying to you, you have bigger problems, dude.

Listen doofus, to use your own terminology, I've watch this craphole way longer than the 5 years you've been here. I'm also on other forums and rgp long before you were here. I choose not to put my location or there because I'm not an idiot. I don't need to list my games here to try to compensate for the size of my, well you seem too. A support ticket for the slings sending the ball into the outlane is stupid. So is a support ticket for an airball off the slings. Learn to adjust your games, it's not that hard.

#2129 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Dude, you ever think you might be taking this pinball shit too seriously? I don't know either of you, but I know one of you was trying to be helpful, and the other was pretty much just being a condescending prick.
Just step back, take a breath, and think about how fortunate you are to even be in a hobby like this when there are people who won't be able to put dinner on the table tonight.
Life is good... Smile

I don't take this seriously at all, that's why I made a sarcastic respond to the idea of calling the manufacturer, which was not in response to your question. Just like the other people who gave responses about center drains

#2143 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Curious to know from others where the ball usually gets redirected to from the drone magnet. Lately, it seems to be spitting it directly into the left drain not giving you an chance at saving it. I really don't recall it being this brutal.
Also, I played around with the Lawlor idea of turning in all levellers to get the game to a perfect 6.5. Even on the bubble, I end up under the first line, and with a digital inclinometer at the same level as the bubble, it's showing 6.0 degrees. And of course, it feels super floaty.
If this game was designed specifically to play at 6.5 degrees as many have echoed here, then where is that measurement taken? Should it be in line with where the bubble is? That seems like it would be sensible.
There seems to be a multitude of answers to this. Some people take an average. Some just measure anywhere and whatever it reads is what they go by. But does it not make sense that there should be a spot on the pf (parallel to the bubble) that would give you the most accurate reading?

All levelers in (or out the same amount), on perfectly level floor, should put you at 6.5. If yours feels too floaty there, turn up the back slightly. Don't worry about the number.

#2225 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

I ended up removing the JJP protector for the SIM card hole and put some heavy duty mylar down. That JJP protector is so ridiculously thick it changes the game anywhere it's located. Because of it's thickness it also gets beat pretty bad and shows it....
Unlike 99% of the games out there, Dialed In requires cliffy-style protectors even for mild home use. So virtually every game in the wild will have one. Might as well play it w/o and down the road if you ever want to sell, throw a new one on there. Think about it...if the point of a cliffy is to protect the area so it remains nice looking....but you never ever actually see the area under it....what's the point really?
Anyway, with JP protector on, best I could do was 3 DIALED IN letters. One game after removing the protector, got all but one of the letters...closest I've gotten!

The point of the protector isn't to make it look nice, it's to avoid damaging the game. Look at old games with holes like mb, afm, stuff like that. The holes on some are almost double the right size from wood being chewed out.

#2226 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Nope ..like i said before every game is different and we don't know how others are set up. Have over 1200 games on mine and highest score is only 3 million or so. Most sims collected is 4 and most modes completed is 8. My gane is brutal as hell at 7.0 degrees, very sensitive slings and drone magnet, otber magnets set on medium, waxed regularly, kickback on difficult, extra balls more difficult and the most u can get is 3 in a game also the ball save is only 4 seconds. Most games are below 1 million and last 4 minutes on mine. Every once in a while ill get the sim shot dialed in and thsts when i have my best games.

Sensitive slings are a must, out of the factory the switch gaps on everything are massive. Every switch need to be gapped down. Tighten your switches esp on the slings and your game will be much harder.

#2227 1 year ago
Quoted from Oldgoat:

That insert is clearly mislabeled. It's not SiM but rather SdtM, because every freaking time my wife or I light it, it drains within 10 seconds. And, since ours is set to the default...well our success rate in gathering SDTM cards is less than 10 percent. I have wondered how people manage to collect all the cards...not knowing that the option to preserve it is possible. I doubt we will be doing that. My wife won't even let me put that piece of foam on the Merlin hole of MM that helps prevent perfect shots from bouncing out. She says it is cheating.

Good, your wife is smart, and does not want to make your games easy.

#2266 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

In what JJP documentation does it tell us the recommended leveling for this game. Doesn't seem to be in the online manual, although they does mention a torpedo level as a required set up took.

No game tells you what to level it at. You level all games at 0 that's a side to side thing. Many games, DI included recommend a particular slope.page a4 tells you how to slope it, all levelers full in, page a7 says how to level it. (Version 1 and 2 manuals)

#2302 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

A bit untrue. All 90s B/W manuals that I've seen recommend 6.5 degrees.
Right now my digital level shows 6.3 degrees between the slings, yet it sits just above the second but bubble line.

It's completely true, all games are leveled at 0. Slope depends on the game and as stated most have a slope they were designed at.

#2315 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

The Titan rubbers I installed are so bouncy that when the diverter is down and the ball is traveling fairly quickly, the ball bounces off the upper PF into the Skill Shot area ~50-70% of the time (path shown in the photo below). Are other folks experiencing this? Seems like changing the angle of the double rubber divider is one potential solution for keeping the ball on the upper PF. Would be interesting to hear what patl thinks

That's left open as another exit.

#2316 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Anyone know when to source the rubber they're using on these games? Like many of you, my game was covered in dust out of the box, and rubbers are already looking rough. Probably going to change them out soon, but not sure what rubbers JJP is using. Doesn't feel like the standard stuff I buy from Pinball Life.

They are using titans rubber (silicone) now. You can thank a well known person for that upgrade.

#2318 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Understood, but my point is it exits the top/left 50-70% of the time now, which doesn't seem right to me.
With the original rubber, the upper PF was much more random and less dominated by the top/left exit.
What rubber are you using? Original, Titan, or something else...

Factory original rubber, which is titan at least back to September builds. Mine does not go that much to the top, it goes there on really hard shots only. Why would you find it a negative for it to go to the safest exit, and the one that lines you up for the upper ramp and SIM hole from the upper flipper?

#2323 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

My build date is 6/13, so it definitely had the old, non-bouncy rubber.
It's a negative because I usually hit the ramp pretty hard and the ball ends up spending almost 0 time on the upper PF (50-70% of the time). In most of the cases, it slips into the skill shot slot IIRC.
I could take a video which may be more compelling than my description, but I don't want to take the time. Not that important. Minor compared to the STDM drains I still get when playing EMP strike.

I don't get your issue, the ball spends very little time on a passive mini PF that has no scoring switches so there's no reason for it to remain up there.

#2370 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

I've heard a lot of people mention that the proper way to set up DI is to put all of the levellers in. But tonight I was downloading the 1.52 Delta, and stumbled on the Quick Start Guide by accident, and noticed this in the corner.
There were also some people saying that JJP does not suggest how to level it, and that PL had mentioned the ideal setup at some point. I think this pretty much shows that likes most games, 6.5 degrees is ideal, and you can't do that with the legs all in.

This is completely wrong. Legs ask the way in will give you approx 6.5 degrees. In reality all legs even we'll do the same, just changing the overall height. JJP relocated the bolt holes to make this their new standard. It was talked about at the reveal, it's on their setup video also.

#2373 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Once again 95% of owners never watched the reveal. A high percentage won't watch the 90 minute set up video. I'D say put it on the Damn set up paper on the machine... But a high percentage will probably toss 8t without reading it

Exactly, it don't matter if they put the info out there, most people will just ignore it and then bitch about the missing info.

1 week later
#2436 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I find the Lawlor shot target harder than SIM...but then again I don;t go for it much

Far harder than a typical Lawlor through the pops shot. Typically if you clear the pops you've made the shot. This one you need to clear extreme right out you still miss the shot.

1 week later
#2747 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I haven't noticed as some early ones were sent out with some junk. I'll be replacing mine with Marco white for sure

They are using titan white now. 2.0 manual specifies it's silicone, but not the brand. But the brand is titan.

#2748 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

If you run your finger along the edge of the Dialed In legs you can feel where it contacts the cabinet at the turn in the leg when it shouldn't. If you've had it a while you might see wrinkling starting there, too.

The thing is the legs should actually be touching the cabinet. They are shaped to spread the compression over a larger area. People's anal retentiveness over the cabinet corners has caused people to not want that to happen. It also makes the games more wobbly. You're now putting sharing stress on the bolts, which is not what they are designed for. Bolts are designed for linear stress.

#2752 1 year ago
Quoted from NerdyWife:

This...isn’t how engineering works.

Yeah it actually is. Supporting the mass over a smaller area increases the shear force on the bolts. The smaller standoff provides much less contact area (by design). Essentially balancing the leg on the smaller standoffs is less stable, there is more movement between the legs and cab. Push your DI, then go push a game what the legs are against the cab, it's a lot firmer. Is it enough that you'll shear the bolts, not likely. But it's more likely than the old mounting style.

#2756 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

This might be a stupid question but on my DI there is already metal fittings on the cabinet looking just like those protectors in your link. Do I really need an extra layer of metal?

No, the ones applied are fine. Leave them in place, put the felt on as extra protection and go play. And nudge the shit out of the game.

2 months later
#3436 1 year ago
Quoted from geoncic:

I've had my game for almost a week now and absolutely love it! I'm very new at playing pinball (less than 500 games played in my life), and was proud to hit 800,000 on DI at around the 200 game mark.
The only thing wrong Ive found so far is that I have one pixel stuck on red on the big back box screen. Is there a chance this is fixable, or am I going to have to live with it?

Where is the red stuck pixel, is it in the very top right corner? If so, it's not a stuck pixel, it's JJPs, version of a credit dot and you have a game malfunction. On a game that new it's likely the trapdoor sticking open.

#3440 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

That'd be one GIGANTIC f'ing pixel!

Agreed, it's not a single pixel for the credit dot, but I've seen people unfamiliar with DI specifically call it that. It is a small red spot in the very corner.

#3459 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

I am trying to figure out if there is a cue before the game takes a picture for a high score? I would like to make a funny pose but can't seem to figure out when the game is taking my picture.

It depends, the game will use an earlier pic if it does not get a good one, or if it is deemed problematic, when names are put in. Next time you get a high score have someone else out in your name. It'll still usually have your pic correct.

1 week later
#3597 1 year ago
Quoted from hockeymag8:

This is the one adjustment that is harder to digest. Have heard of putting extra Mylar on games......never taking it off. Any chance cutting these pieces out would have a negative impact? Seems they would have put it on for a reason. Thank you!

the reason to put it on as it is, is its easier to put on a solid piece. Putting on one with a hole would take more time to line up perfectly.

1 week later
#3771 1 year ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

I wouldn't call it a "penalty", but the SIM Card multiplier only applies to the shots made. Using Big Bang scores the un-made shots without multiplier.

Great feature, you get the mode completed and your bonus for the work you have actually done. But you don't get a bonus on your uncompleted stuff. Its a great risk reward choice. Lower points, but getting it completed right now, and getting a chance at a sim card for higher multipliers later, or try to get a higher score now by not taking big bang and making the shots manually, but risk not completing the mode and not getting a shot at a sim card at all.

#3869 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Unrelated....is it me or do DI's flippers seem softer than other machines? All of my Stern's have lightening fast, super responsive flippers. My WMS games a close 2nd. My MMR a close 3rd. But DI seems to suffer from random fading even during single ball play, and much more prominently as the ball gets to the end of the flipper, making orbit shots hard to hit since the power seems to vary each shot. The flipper strength is set plenty powerful enough as the ball goes up the left and right ramps without issue. But the orbits, especially the left one shot from right flipper seems to vary in power every shot. Am I losing my mind or does anyone else experience this?

No, the flippers are pretty much cannons on factory settings.

#3875 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

HA! Yeah, not even close. Can only guess people saying that have never played a Stern. If I play DI and then play Metallica it feels like the flippers in MET are powered by rockets.
Thanks for confirming what I suspected. There must be an issue with the voltage regulator that controls the coil power. I say this because sometimes the kickback punches the sh*t out of the ball and sometimes it barely makes it half way up the playfield. Same with the phone scoop. I set it lower so it would stop hitting the ramp rail, and 90% of the time it kicks out perfectly. The other 10% is barely makes it out of the hole. I imagine the flipper(s) suffer from the same randomness.

variably of the kickback is going to be mostly determined by the ball. The coil fires when the switch is closed, a slow ball may not be as far back in the outlane when contact is made with the plunger. This will affect the kickback strength. A fast moving ball will contact the plunder deeper in the outlane but also have more inertia to be stopped and turned around, also affecting the exit velocity.

#3876 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

All three of my flippers are set to max to make it play well. Can only make it up the right ramp from the left flipper about 50% of the time. And I have tuned the EOS, tightened the coil mounts so that there is no play and checked the gap between the flippers and the playfield etc.

If you are at max, either there's something wrong with your game, or your setup is wrong.

#3928 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

I went into switch test it’s #47 right ramp made and it doesn’t work in test either.Tried to manually activate with no luck

check continuity at the lugs while manually activating the switch. If that fails the switch is bad. If that works you have a good switch and either a broken wire, which you'd see during the continuity test, or a problem somewhere else, the matrix.

#3946 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Does anyone have a QUED toy (electric guy) that is holding just 1 lightning bolt in both arms? Mine came lose and I need to hot glue it back on but I only see the 1 piece. Did JJP switch from using 2 separate lightning bolt plastics to 1 at some point?

it has never been 2 pieces.

1 week later
#4139 1 year ago
Quoted from jwilson:

First off, it's only two balls to start and it takes a lot of hits to add a ball.

a lot of shots? it takes 3, that's not lot. if you time it right you get one in the phone and as its ready to eject send aonther ball there, the first falls right back in giving you a second "hit"

#4185 1 year ago

a midnight madness as a bonus would be cool.

#4198 1 year ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Just swapped rubbers to Titans. Same result as my AFMr, score jumped dramatically straight away. The DI rubbers are definitely better than AFMr, but Titans are unbeatable for me.

When was your game built? JJP has put titans on from the factory since last fall.

#4204 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Is that right? Another plus for JJP. My game was built in February so I guess it has Titans. And here I was just debating whether to put them in, not realizing I already had them.
I’m pretty sure the flippers are regular rubbers though. Those I will likely replace.

AFAIK, the flippers are still old rubber. The fact you couldn't tell if the rest was titan or not should be a nice endorsement of Titans feeling like real rubber.

#4210 1 year ago

then it would have had Titans on it from the factory. There might have been a few regular rubbers in areas if they were clearing out stock still, but by then they were primarily on Titans.

#4335 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

I hate to drill holes, wish JJP had caught that during design.

remove the sign, bend the two metal hinge brackets to make the uppermost mounting bracket line up on the hole the middle bracket used to be in. No new holes, you'll have a spare screw. If you get a ball trap mock up some clear shield to but behind the sign.

#4390 1 year ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I really, really wish I could get my phone app to work (android). I had trouble with it from the beginning and got it to connect and work one time, then never again. As soon as I open the app I have the spinning wheel of infinity saying it is trying to connect. I'm supposed to have to hold down the left flipper button on the app to make that happen, but it goes right to it. I have posted on the JJP forum with others with this same problem and no help or response. My reason for it is pretty important ... I have a friend that is paralyzed in one arm (got hit by a drunk driver while riding his bike 20 years ago) and he uses his left knee for the left flipper. Does okay, but every time he comes over I try to get the app working for him with no success. I showed it to JJP Eric M. at Level 257 and he said he would talk to someone about it, but no response. Since most have success, did anyone have to overcome this issue? If so, how is it solved? Yes, Bluetooth is turned on, but the app seems to want to connect on it's own as soon as it starts.

its finicky, there is no need to hold a button to link the game. with the game on, make sure the phone is on with bluetooth enabled. start the app. it will attempt to attach to the game. If it connects then you hold the flipper prior to plunging the first ball of any player who will use BT. if payer one is using BT, load game normally, before they plunge hold flipper button, it should says welcome. player 2 would do the same before they plunge ball one if they were going to use BT. It's the initial connection that seems flaky, Once it links to the game attaching the player is usually not an issue. Turn off or delay as long as possible your phone screen timing out. seems that going into screen off mode messes up the BT working in game.

#4392 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Respectfully, the only way I could get the game to connect to my phone (iPhone 7 I think) was to hold BOTH the left game flipper button and the left button in the app. Works every single time now.
Also, you may need to fully close the app by double-clicking the home button and swiping up (I think this works on recent Android versions too). Or completely restart your phone. I have to do this all the time now with other apps

yes, this is to link the connected phone to the game position, not to make the phone attach to the game itself. The finicky part is ususally getting the game and phone to link in the first place, Not getting a connected phone to work for a player.

#4402 1 year ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

So I will ask for me.
I think that form of warranty is illegal. A warranty should follow the product it is sensed to cover and not the buyer

They may do it out of goodwill, but the warranty states it does not transfer between owners.

#4409 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

True but they usually go beyond what the warranty says ....

Exactly, they do it out of goodwill. They, by the warranty, do not need to.

#4411 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

They need to if they want to keep selling machines. $9K and the game has lots of design flaws and defects - if they don't stand behind the game who is going to buy the next one?

The same operators who have been, the people who understand that these games all need work on arrival, not the people who want the pinball equivalent of a trailer queen.

#4413 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

LOL What the heck is a trailer queen?

cargument, trailer queen is the super clean car that never sees the road and only moves in a trailer so it stays perfect.

#4417 1 year ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

Design flaw,or cheap steel is being used?

its the same spring steel thats been used for decades. .006" if I recall. They have broken in the past, and will break in the future.

#4419 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

So the trap door on Fun House was breaking after a few hundred plays? Those things took thousands of plays to break, if they did at all. All steel is not the same, my friend.

some likely did, most did not. Some DI have had broken flaps, most do not.

#4457 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Did JJP update the ramp flap used on the trap door at some point? If so is it known when the switch to a longer ramp flap was made?

The unbroken flap is longer and hard to reinsert the mech than the removal with the broken flap.

#4473 1 year ago
Quoted from WackyBrakke:

Why do people keep ruining their machines with blades? They look horrible after a while and have you ever tried to remove them? Ruins the cabinet when you try to take them off. WORST non-reversible mod in the history of pinball.

They are terrible looking at the start too.

#4504 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I don't know the mode shot sequences that well. I wish it would tell you a little quicker what the next shot is. ex If I shoot the left ramp, it would be nice if the callout for the next shot was before it makes it back to the flipper.

the next available shot, or shots, lights right away color changing. For combos, they light immediately in white.

#4505 1 year ago
Quoted from attack7:

I was thinking this weekend that the overcharge feature on mode start is really cool, and think it would be neat to bring the idea to Big Bang as well. A concept of overcharging Big Bang into a "Bigger Bang" and "Biggest Bang" - perhaps with a percentage increase on score collect if you can avoid hitting the target...
Just an idea to throw out there

big bang already has that. you always complete the mode on a lit big bang shot. you only get multiplied values on the shots you really completed before the big bang target though. So if you start a mode and hit big bang right away even with 5 sim cards collected you get the normal score for completion. If you made 2 shots then hit big bang with 5 sims collected. you'd get 5x for the points for the 2 shots you made and base value for the big bang collected ones.

#4510 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Does anyone know when new code will come.. Running 1.52, I heard new code/bug fixes was comming last month.. not sure where from..
Also 1 LED on my phone is out.. new phone or just an LED board?

JJP said new code is coming. they never said when. So thats up in the air. Do you actually have an LED out. there are 1 or 2 near the corners that can look out because they are blocked internally by the phone structure.

#4537 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

That's disappointing to learn but good to know.

why would a great risk/reward option be disappointing?

#4540 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

It’s just disappointing in the fact that I thought I was getting a ton of multiplied points by hitting Big Bang when in fact I wasn’t. But, you are right. It increases the risk/reward aspects of the game, and that makes things more interesting.

Oh ok, but you still get any you actually completed multiplied, and you light a sim to collect which further increases multipliers down the line.

#4546 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Switch not working right.
LTG : )

Or hes getting it to lock at the crazy bobs which does happen at certain game points.

#4566 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I dont think the guy is an exterminator, but he does get the phone (from Crazy Bob), and him activating the phone is what starts the disasters happening. Dialed In Electronics are the makers of the phone, and they want the phone back, and are the ones that attack you. SIM cards are a real part of a phone which activate them and set up so the phone can connect to the cell network; they kind of fudge on this in the story, you only ever have 1 SIM card in a phone.
I don’t have any idea what the deal is with the spider. You can watch the backstory on attract mode on the game; it’s also partly in the comic book.

spider is in the game from an early plan where QED was an exterminator. They just left it in rather than changing it to something else, per Ted.

#4597 1 year ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

For #3, if the camera doesn’t recognize a face, it either displays a blank picture or an old picture of you. You can adjust the recognition sensitivity of the camera in settings.

The pic will be from the current game, nothing is saved game to game.

3 weeks later
#4752 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

like an option to turn the camera off!

already exists.

1 week later
#4819 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Do you guys find that the slings in this game a very dangerous, and throw the ball into the outlanes fairly frequently? Only other game I have that plays like this is TWD.
Everything else seems a little more forgiving on the slings. I tried turning the power down a bit, and it definitely improves, but just trying to get an idea if the game is generally like that?

Are you complaining that the slings are doing exactly what they were invented to do all those years ago?

#4835 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Yes, tug it towards the front of the game. One tug, maybe two usually does it.
LTG : )

A few more tugs needed as you age though.

1 week later
#4899 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

QED lighting bolts are upside down .

RJD devil horn DI mod.

1 week later
#4981 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Got the Cliffy protectors for the outlanes. Anyone else have problem with the ball getting stuck? I've tried bending down the metal spring which helped but still have balls getting stuck from time to time.

why do you have them on the outlanes, there's no ball drop there

2 weeks later
#5131 1 year ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Im curious about this as well. Would like to see the smartphone characters all animated. It’s cosmetic, but it adds to the experience.

they are on the record that the animations are coming. There is also theater multiball coming. The game is fantastic as is but polish would be nice. this game begs for a midnight madness mode too, but its not something that was promised.

#5166 1 year ago

are you emailing or using the support website? Ive never waited longer than a day for a response or a week for a resolution at my door when I simply fill out the support ticket online

#5201 12 months ago
Quoted from KingBW:

+1 - My friend with one arm uses his knee on the flipper button and does pretty decent (surprisingly). Wish I could get the app to work. It only worked 1 time for me, so I know its possible. The app just freezes when it starts up. There's no opportunity to press the left flipper button to search for the match.

you don't push anything to search for a match. the came will connect if its on and the phone app is on. you hold the buttons after its connected in order to link a phone to the current player after the game is started, but before they shoot it into play. It unfortunately often does have a problem making that first connection.

#5211 12 months ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Finally got the app working this am. Didn't realize that with the app I can trigger Big Bang. Man that will make some of these modes so much easier!

you will lose your shots completed bonus for any mode using big bang. You only get the bonus for shots you actually complete. Its the same for the big bang shot in the game. Its a nice risk reward balance. complete the mode for sure but get less points and have a shot a a sim card. or complete the mode manuallly for more points but risk not completing it and getting no sim card chance.

#5213 12 months ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Point stuff is a little bit over my head... I have no grasp of it, kind of like my Star Wars multiplier thingy.. I have no clue.

you get points for every shot you make in a mode. if there are 5 shots to make and you make all 5 for 10K each, you get 50K in points (x sim cards collected) + the mode base value. maybe some other stuff. if you use big bang you get the mode base plus if you complete 3 out of 5 shots before big bang, you'd get 30K (x sims cards collected) rather than 50K.

1 week later
#5261 11 months ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

I seem to have a problem with Monkey Wrench Multiball. When playing I am passing the diverter and it is not registering as a successful pass. I have tested the three switches with the ball independently (up the ramp, just before Betty and just after Betty) it is recognising attempts but not successful passes. I have tested them in the multiball and outside it with same results, all register a score. Any ideas.

are you making the shot cleanly or it is hitting betty's arm when its partway up and stopping then going under when the arm is fully out of the way? The shot is timed, if its not clean it wont count.

#5262 11 months ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Are you supposed to be able to make a right orbit shot, or have I only been lucky the two times it has happened?

what is the failure? it its getting most of the way and rejected on a fast clean shot? If so then its riding up the wall slightly and backing into the opening for the ramp from the left orbit. The cutout is just a hair higher than half the ball height. It would work better if the ramp and cut out was 1/8 to 1/4" higher. the higher the better but you need clearance under the upper ramp too

#5265 11 months ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Usually it goes to the ramp or if the shot is too hard it hits the edge to the orbit blocking the shot. Recently I've had a couple of succesful orbit-shots and it made me wonder if it's intended to do that.

it shoudln't hit there but that ramp is just too low, if the ball is up off the PF at all the balls midline gets above the cutout and runs up and the shot fails. I think it would be good if there is any room to raise the ramp and that guide an 1/8 of an inch, washers under the supports maybe. but like i mentioned I don't know if that would leave clearance above the ramp for the other orbit.

#5266 11 months ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Usually it goes to the ramp or if the shot is too hard it hits the edge to the orbit blocking the shot. Recently I've had a couple of succesful orbit-shots and it made me wonder if it's intended to do that.

wait you mean you've gone right orbit all the way though to the left orbit? no it should not do that ever, but on rare occasions does happen if the ball really gets up the guide and off the PF.

3 weeks later
#5433 10 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

The flippers on DI are quite problematic with random strength variance - the left orbit shot exasperates this issue because it puts the most resistance on the flipper bat. Flipper strength needs to be drastically increased and even then the flipper still exhibits the strength randomness. Whatever JJP uses to control the pulse modulation of the coil is not reliable. It's made the game a lot less fun for sure. There are no mechanical issues with my flippers. It's just the way the game is - I've had two copies and both flip the same.

I have never heard anyone say this before.

#5456 10 months ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

take a step back, sit in time-out for a moment, and realize that your Dialed In copy is not representative of all the others.

you need to take your own advise. The "problem" you are describing is not being reported by anyone but you.

#5475 10 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I replaced my traditional rubbers with Titan clears, gave it a clean and a fresh coat of wax and...hollee chit! Game plays so good now!

When was your game made, they have been putting titans on from the factory (white not clear) since fall of 17.

#5478 10 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Yes, i can certainly snap some pics. Do you want the game on? off? Both?

I'll have to take a look. There were traditional white rubbers on mine. I'm not sure if the previous owner replaced them or not, but I can't imagine that he did for a game that was just over a year old. I want to say it was made June or July 2017. I can take a look though.

that was around, but might be just before, they changed to titans.

#5529 10 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Has anyone experienced the Theater magnet just dropping the ball, instead of throwing it into the orbit ala The Shadow? Is it an connector thing? Opto thing? Is there a magnet test? TBH, I haven't really tried to troubleshoot it. Just started noticing it over the last couple days.
the only big difference was that I changed out the Ninja Chrome balls to Carbon Steel balls. (plus the cleaning/waxing/rerubbering the week prior).
Also ordered some LEDs, and wiring to help light up the rest of the translite. Will be doing that Saturday.

there are times it is supposed to drop the ball and times its supposed to toss it. Whats happening when it drops?

2 weeks later
#5828 9 months ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

very cool. Hope to get there, soon.
I remember this situation with Armageddon. Had it two times ready without being able to make the phone shot to get it... The third time I got it - the first and only time - up to now...
One question: which version do you have installed? I see the announcement "Last ball" cannot remember to see this in my game (v1.52) it always says ball 3/3 for the last ball...

hes playing with reserve balls, so in multiplayer everyone plays one ball then moves on, all extra balls are taken at the end.

#5833 9 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I’m going back to regular rubber on a lot of
My games. I tried Superbands because I had read they give you better grip, but I’m finding they are making the ball crazy hard to get control of ! Red or black rubbers from here on out I think.

SUperbands play like crap, the titan silicone or PBL's perfect play are very similar to fresh red rubber.

#5856 9 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Question: Two of my drones are acting up in that the propellers don't spin. If I give them a couple of rotations by hand, they spin again, but only for a few times, and then they seize up again. Reading other posts, it seems that these drones are a common problem. I'm worried that if I get new ones, the same thing will happen eventually. Is it worth it for me to put a ticket in? The drones are cool, but I'm not sure I want to go through the trouble of replacing them only to have the new ones fail as well.

up to you, they are cheap toy drones. they will all break eventually.

#5862 9 months ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Are there any replacement drones to buy that are more long term reliable?

No, these are very cheap toys. look at any hobby site, retail these are inexpensive micro drones. they are not made to work forever. I don't even know why they hooked them to power. Just having them unmoving is fine.

#5893 9 months ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

There is a setting to disable them, it's under game settings and it's called "Drones physically active" Just set it to NO.

I understand they can be turned off. you missed my point, They are not functional to the game, there was no reason for them to put in a part that was going to be this unreliable. These drones are known to be cheap and break easily. They could have simply mounted them for looks with no power which is how they all will be eventually anyway. If would be different if they pushed the ball around with the thrust.

2 weeks later
#6226 9 months ago
Quoted from Cobray:

I am thinking of moving the right outlane post down a little and making it a little less susceptible to draining on that side... am I crazy? I'm a pretty good pinball player and I'm starting to think that I need a little help on this title after owning it for a year. Or is it time to take my "Pinball Player Man card" away for thinking that?

adjustable post thats fine. making a new hole to move a post, lame.

1 week later
#6371 9 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Sanity check: So, if my right ramp shot has enough speed, sometimes its turning into a right orbit shot. I'm not positive on what happens, but perhaps the ball is getting slightly airborne and then hitting and going over the left orbit "wall" and then down the left orbit? Or do I need to adjust something like the metal flap in front of the right ramp or something?

Theres no flap to adjust, it just happens sometimes. The rejects when it rises then gets tossed back down the right side are worse than the full jumps. I think the issue is the ramp top is pretty much at exact ball center. it they made it even 1/8" higher it would have stopped the issue. but its not a game breaker.

1 week later
#6444 8 months ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Lets see your topper.

we don't have useless aftermarket crap on top of our games.

1 week later
#6534 8 months ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

Maybe the modcouple could make some sort of plastic cover that could go over the ramp flap to stop the ball from going airborne.

that would block the ball coming around the jump from the left orbit

#6565 8 months ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Should I wait on 1.60 to be refined?

why? you'll just have to go to 1.60 then. and then do another install to 1.6x.

#6589 8 months ago
Quoted from Insanity199:

Not necessarily true. If there are additional changes to the OS, it may require another full install that wouldn’t need 1.60 installed first.
For Hobbit, they came out with 3.00 which included the same OS updates to support new motherboards. It introduced a few glitches and they will be fixed in 3.10 which will be another full install. Likely due to some changes at OS level.

sure it could be another full release but the likely hood would be that its simply a delta.

1 week later
#6717 8 months ago
Quoted from AFM95:

Dumb question, is the 1.57 code in the 1.50 download? I haven't updated software in a pin before, so I wasn't sure if I have to install 1.50, then install 1.57.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

No 1.57 is not in 1.50. It would need time travel to do that. Just install 1.6 then 1.61. If you find issues report them so they can be fixed.

1 week later
#6857 7 months ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

anyway, why would you change this ?

because this game is hard and he can't feel good about himself unless its easy so he feels like he is great at it.

#6870 7 months ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Been struggling to progress in this game for a long time, not getting more than a couple of hundred k. Tried lowering the flipper power since I put it on high a long time ago. Played about ten games. Got between 1 and 2,5 million in half of the games. So could be worth trying if you struggle.

so you raised the power for no reason, now are lowering back toward stock. You think maybe Pat knew what he was doing? Adjustable coils just mean people can f up their games even more by not knowing why something is set the way it is. but glad its working better for you now.

1 month later
#7289 6 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

If you have sim cards and you complete a mode with Big Bang, you dont get awarded points for shots completed in that mode. I usually keep Big Bang available for modes that I find to be too difficult and leave it for a last second shot to complete the mode, otherwise i would forfeit the mode. With sim cards collected, you want to make shots in the mode as you get the shot value multiplied by the number of sim cards. With even 1 or 2 sim cards collected, a mode completion can be upwards of 500K+.
Definitely try to stack modes with MB and/or lit sim cards. Modes that I like to stack with MB are Meteor and Acid Rain.

you do get multiplied points for modes with cards collected. even using big bang, but you only get that for the ones you manually completed. If it take 5 shots for the mode you are in and you big bang immediately you get no multiplied points. if you make 3 shots then big bang for the last two, you would get the multiplier on the first 3.

#7292 6 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Yes agreed. From the other post saying to light Big Bang, start a mode, then shoot it as soon as possible, you wouldn't get multiplied points for shots made in that mode, so you wouldn't maximize points. I was just pointing that out.

agreed, not getting any shots made is a sure way to keep scores low.

#7297 6 months ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

I do not fully understand the "Lite Drones" rollover at the left inlane. It blinks almost the entire time but one the other side the drone target is lit anyway. As soon as the drone target is not lit anymore, the "Lite Drones" insert also is not lit anymore. When the ball rolls over it it does not do anything, shouldn't it light the next light at the drone delivery progress? Is there a reason for that? What's the trick? First I thought the rollover is not working but I tried it in switch test and it works perfectly...

if lite drones is lit and you roll over it, the drone spot target is active, hitting it then will complete the drone lights, rather than having to hit the drone switches numerous times.

#7299 6 months ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

I still do not understand. When the ball rolls over the left inlane "Lite Drones" rollover, it does not show any reaction in my opinion. Shouldn't there be any visual or audio feedback when it rolls over it? It feels like it does nothing (at least when not hitting the drone target right after it).

if I recall, the whole array of drone lights will pulse after hitting the lit rollover. Hitting the standup then collects them all, allowing a drone pickup at the theater. its essentially a hurry up. if you don't hit it quick it goes away.

#7307 6 months ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

Here at my machine, when the ball rolls over the "Lite Drone" rollover, it does not do anything - the drone lights do not pulse or something. I checked that twice. The switch is working, I checked that in the settings...

it only works if lite drone insert was lit when rolled over. take the glass off, start a game manually trip the lit drone rollover inlane switch then immediately manually hit the drone standup. you should get a theater pickup started.

#7342 6 months ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I added Pinstadium lights to my Dialed In today. I’ve had the pin for a couple of years and never even considered Pinstadiums for any of my pins until I got my BM66 last month. It came with Pinstadiums, and I experimented playing with them off and then on. Amazing difference. I highly recommend these for Dialed In.

This is such crap. In the history of history DI needs extra lighting less than any other stock game

2 weeks later
#7395 5 months ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Did they use to sell these PFs? I see they have Pirates PFs for sale but not DI on the JJP site.

They sold the ones that were rejected from game use, the seconds.

#7423 5 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

just joined the club. was wondering if all the drones are supposed to spin or just one of them. only got one working.

depends on when. go to test mode. see if they spin then.

1 week later
#7438 5 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

I keep getting balls stick here on the wire. Is there supposed to be a clear protector here? There's a hole with nothing in it.
[quoted image]

Nothing goes there but its a common trap that probably should have been dealt with at the factory, its pretty glaring. Shit happens kinda thing deal with it or make something on your own.

#7440 5 months ago
Quoted from javagrind888:

That sucks. Paging modders for $$$'s....

There's no reason to give someone money, spend $2 and stick a piece of plastic there.

1 week later
#7467 4 months ago
Quoted from drizzt76:

I do have 1.61...I just updated it a couple days ago. I found a setting in the test menu that changes the magnet behavor which was set at -100. I put it to +150...I don't know if that will change anything. I do concur with many of you that it does hit the back of the QED guy and I'm hoping an EMP pulse might divert it. I am coming to the realization that I might just also be getting pissed about the sdtm shots and I could stop being a B about the whole thing.....I just raises by blood pressure to see it being held in the theatre and then sdtm and I can't wiggle the machine enough to correct it. I just need to to become a better player......

you'll never get a toss with +150, originally it was was shipped at -80. some people have had better results moving to -100 or -120. Going positive is the wrong way. It should not toss in EMP mode though.

4 weeks later
#7641 4 months ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Why are JJP games so finicky about doing a code update? I just updated my woz to 7.01 with out troubles. I formatted the zip drive and have tried to put the 1.60 code on the stick 4 different times without any success of the game reading it. I re-downloaded the code to try again and no workie...was there any difference between 1.57 and 1.61? Super frustrating and a big time waste.

1.6 is a full update, not just a copy to the stick deal.

3 weeks later
#7765 3 months ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

not sure QED move in that mode (to block the falling ball), as its generaly done by purpose to be "grabbed" by the center PF magnets...

In the 1.6x code QED moves to block drains most of the time, but not in EMP mode.

1 month later
#8019 60 days ago
Quoted from Kingpin22:

Finally was able to pick up a Dialed In LE! I’ve been chasing this title for over 2 years and the stars finally aligned Babee!!!!! Had a great game with settings set from previous owner with the SIM cards carrying over from ball to ball, this may be factory setting on the new 1.61 code. Not sure. What a masterpiece! Congratulations to the JJP team on creating such a fun pinball. This one will be bolted to the floor next to Funhouse and Roadshow!
I have a early build with playfield #67 and can’t get the backglass off, I don’t think the previous owner ever took it off in 2 years. Any tips greatly appreciated![quoted image]

Carry-over is not factory, you scored well by playing a nerfed game

#8024 59 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

and OK, carry over SIM cards is not factory, but let's admit this is the way it should be, as it its more than hard enough already (never reached showdown)

no, it shuldn't be that way out of the factory, the game is too easy that way.

#8029 59 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Modes and SIM cards are huge. I would say they net more points than any MB or other aspect of the game. Even getting just 1 SIM card will double the scores on the next mode. And it gets exponentially higher with each SIM card 3x, 4x, etc.
Get your phone scoop adjusted and perfect, and I would recommend (again) a Mantis protector over a Cliffy protector.

This is exactly the problem with carryover, you get huge multipliers even if you fail to collect the sims since you get extra chances at it. This makes the game way too easy to score on.

#8030 59 days ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

You know what I say? If someone wants to set there game up so that they score 50 million on it every time they play, so be it. It's their damn game! Let them enjoy it how they want. We aren't competing with one another. Whether it's "nerfed" or "factory settings", who cares?

They totally can do what they want to their game, if they want to rubberband the outlanes and play with the glass off go ahead. Never said they can't.

#8031 59 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

+1 with Tranquilize above...
are you Keith Elwin ?

not at all, just an average Marvin, who likes a challenge. Scoring high by making a game easy isn't as fun.

#8037 59 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

yep, OK, but saying its "too easy" !?
not sure what is average when you're talking about you...
i'm right now ranked 506 (and call myself a good player), i dont feel DI being too easy with SIM carry over (on factory settings of course)
my hiscore is (only) 7.3M, with D-I-A-L-E-D collected, while I-N letters were blinking/ready to collect...

7.3M on dialed in is an absolutely huge score that's the point. The shots are not easier, you're just score inflating by doing carryover. Your score are meaningless when you do that. You can't even consider your scores against other people since you are playing an inflated version.

#8047 58 days ago
Quoted from KingBW:

Are the modes fun? Of course they are … so we need to get to them.

you get to exactly the same number of modes with carryover on or off, you collect more sim cards (score inflate) with carryover. playing 5 modes and collecting one card is the same number of modes as playing 5 with carryover and collecting 4 sims.

1 week later
#8111 50 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

This game has been frustrating the heck out of me lately with all of the drains I get as soon as the ball hits the slings and starts bouncing back and forth. It got to the point where I was cursing those slings constantly. I finally decided to tone them down by about 5 points each and wow! what a difference that makes. I get far fewer cheap drains, and I’m starting to feel like I’m actually getting somewhere in the game again. I love how infinitely adjustable JJP pins are. You can dial all of them in to account for your individual residence and power fluctuations.

Slings are supposed to cause randomness.

#8114 49 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Yes, I know. But you’re insistence that things remain at factory settings no matter how it performs in ones home or to ones personal taste seems a bit extreme. My slings seemed overpowered relative to other games, causing a disproportionate number of drains compared to my other games and ultimately diminishing my enjoyment of what is otherwise a great game. By dialing them back slightly, I have rekindled my love of the game. Nothing wrong with that.

Don't be a wuss, that's what slings are for. Learn to play them. Making things adjustable like this just screws games up. No one is willing to learn the game, they just make it easier so t they can feel good. At home you can always play again for free so it's no cost to you too play it hard and really learn to be good. What is a disproportionate drain level, 100% of balls drain.

#8118 49 days ago
Quoted from holminone:

So just urinate on the guy. It doesn’t screw the game up at all. Just makes his game different. Ability to create variable power levels in coils is a cool innovation. That’s facts.
You pissing all over an excited dude with your self righteous holier than thou tude at worst makes pinside culture more toxic and at best makes you look like a tool bag.

Nah, I wouldn't piss on him if he was on fire. I never said he can't wimp out his games. But bragging that you did it is bush league. It's in your house, you can play it on normal levels and get better, or you can neuter it and think you're getting better.

#8120 49 days ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Hey mods, you think it's time to step in on this? I thought the purpose of this site was to have fun?

We are having fun.

#8122 49 days ago

I knowi have fun playing pinball and taking about it, regardless of if other agree with me. Actually it's a lot better when there are different opinions. When everyone agrees it's group masturbation.

#8124 49 days ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

You understand that last one is something you say about someone you hate, right? As in, you hate this person SO much that if they were on fire and dying, and you had a bladder full of urine that could save their life, you wouldn't help them.
Who hurt you? Why are you so negative?

I know exactly what it means. And I'm not pissing on anyone for any reason, despite holminone saying I was urinating on him. Not my kink. Plus if someones on fire, I'm not putting my junk anywhere near that. Lighten up Francis.

#8134 46 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Just kidding on the last part, by the way. I obviously think it’s fine to play however you want.

i never said you can't set it how you want. I just said why bother neutering the game, you still need to make the shots, it just makes your score terrifically larger.

#8137 46 days ago
Quoted from drizzt76:

Nope. You get to see more of the game as in wizard modes, callouts, light shows with less shots. Score will of course be larger but that isn't the goal for many. I for example sent it easy (easier big bang, sim carryover, etc.) and five balls a couple weeks ago. The kids and the wife are not as "hardcore" as I am but now they get to see more of the game. They are also pushing my high scores off the game that I busted my ass off trying to get with default setting. Am I mad?...nope. The reason I bought the game is for family entertainment and it's performing it's mission as designed.

The original comment was about nerfing the slings. Changing that, going 5 ball, carry-over, none of those things make the game easier, they just give higher scores. You still need to make the shots, you just have more chances to do it. Changing the settings to lessen the shots needed is completely different, that will actually make the game easier. But that wasn't what was getting discussed.

#8139 46 days ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I very rarely change the settings in my games. I have SIM carry-over and the game is still very challenging. If/when it becomes easy, I would change it back.
Marvin doesn't seem to understand/acknowledge that many people play pinball purely for fun. I'm kind of in the middle...I've played in CA/Florida tournaments, but still play largely for fun when at home. More importantly, people spend big bucks on games and the manufacturers provide adjustments for obvious reasons...to customize the games. If this were so horrible, the designers wouldn't waste their precious time programming them.

I literally said playing should be fun, do you have no comprehension skills? Go harass someone else .

#8141 46 days ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

I literally just spit my drink out when I read this. You're accusing someone else of harassment?!? Pot, meet kettle.

If he wants to make up baseless accusations, so can I.

#8148 45 days ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

I got beat up on the golf course yesterday. I told this very large man,that he was making golf too easy, because he wasn't playing the Championship tees.The last thing I remember hearing him say was, I also improve my lie,you have a problem with that?

then you were a victim of battery and should report it to the police. Were you also cutting the hole larger to make putting easier?

#8152 44 days ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Baseless?…please. My profile history & posts speak for themselves. Unlike you, who don't even list where you live. No machines, etc.
You love to bully people on a handful of issues that you police. In this instance, making games "easy" by changing the sling settings. As Nokoro said (and as you should know), games play differently based on locale. It's entirely possible that his slings are stronger than your slings despite his tweaking the settings.

Look who's being a bully, telling me you're somehow better than me because you like to tell people what you own, as if a list on here makes it real. Stop being a bully. Supposedly its not allowed here, but since you were willing to pay them to verify its OK. Not my style. Here I'll put a list of games I own, will that make you happy? Look I even put in a location. Now will you stop bullying me. I just can't take it anymore and the mods don't seem to care that you are making me suicidal with all this torment.

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