Ottawa, ON
Dialed In on the truck for delivery today, can't wait.
(Topic ID: 177016)
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Dialed In
Jersey Jack, 2017
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Quoted from jwilson:My cabinet is also "split" like that in the bottom left side on the front but it's covered by the leg so I just ignored it. It's clearly glued that way from the factory and isn't a stress crack. Game is otherwise flawless.
Glad to be joining, got mine yesterday, It's a fantastic game and very well built, mine has the same separation but under the leg so no worries otherwise no flaws.
Quoted from Lermods:you can use wood glue, pour some into the hole and then use a bar or strap clamp to bring it back together, should be good as new. Not saying you should have to do this with a new game, but to save headaches, this is the easiest course of action and results in no down time.
In my case at least it is obvious that it was glued like this and didn't separate after. So glue and clamps probably won't pull it together.
Quoted from jwilson:No, balls get stuck in the lanes with one there. It's supposed to be like that.
Thanks, thought that might be the case.
4 months later
I am now on my second phone, JJ sent me a replacement. What I have now is color washed out in Yellow or Pink . I suspect the video card since it does not have anything supporting it other than the PCI connector itself. Usually a PC will have a bracket with a screw to hold cards in place, not sure why they didn't do that here, after all it is a pinball machine and will get shaken a lot more than most PCs will. To mitigate this I have added a couple strips of weather stripping to the PC cover to put pressure on the card and keep it from moving around. It hasn't occurred for a few days now since I did this. Time will tell if this fixes it for good or on to phone number 3.... Also added a pic of what I believe is the video card used -- MSI ATI Radeon HD6450
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6 months later
Quoted from Pinballpal:I asked pat about it and the kickback is exposed to feed the upper right flipper. It is random tho and will not do that every time but that is what is exposed to do.
Mine will go into the phone scoop about 50% of the time and I have original scoop protector. Some days it goes in every time and some days not at all. Game angle is set at second line.
Quoted from mrgregb123:The flippers on DI are quite problematic with random strength variance - the left orbit shot exasperates this issue because it puts the most resistance on the flipper bat. Flipper strength needs to be drastically increased and even then the flipper still exhibits the strength randomness. Whatever JJP uses to control the pulse modulation of the coil is not reliable. It's made the game a lot less fun for sure. There are no mechanical issues with my flippers. It's just the way the game is - I've had two copies and both flip the same.
I have no such issue, never had any problems with flipper inconsistency or strength. All shots can be made consistently , so let's not generalize "The flippers on DI are problematic....." Please.
1 month later
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:My phone developed a redish/pink tint about 5 weeks ago. I played through it and it went away on its own somehow. I noticed that after it went away, the screens' image was a good 5 pixels lower on the phone. But hey, at least the full color was back and I could still see everything, so I was fine with it.
Fast forward to 2 days ago. I was cleaning the playfield and moved around the phone to get some hard-to-reach areas, so I know I jostled it a bit. Turned the machine back on and the redish/pink tint came back, and the screen is 5 pixels up back into its old position again! NOOOOO!
I unplugged the phone from its holster and plugged it back on... no change. Jostled all the wires, turned it off and on... no change.
Weird, right? I started to just played through it again but I'm bummed that it's back.
Have you upgraded to the new code? Reason I say this is I had the issues with the Pink wash out for a long time (second phone) I got to the point that I put a switch in line with the power to it so I could reset it without rebooting which always fixes it. NOW with the new code the pink wash out has never happened again, I always thought it was some sort of initialization sequence problem on boot, possibly fixed in this code .?.
1 month later
Quoted from tadowhere:What would the issue be if the phone keeps going blank/black during gameplay? If I power down and start back it it starts working again but it's getting annoying
It was getting annoying for me as well so after 2 phones I wired a switch in line with the 12 volts to the phone and ran it to just inside the coin door. This lets me reset the phone when that happens without rebooting. Easily reverted if the problem goes away (it seems to happen less frequently with the newer code)
2 months later
Quoted from pinstyle:Can anything be done about the sound on this thing? Or are we dead in the water until an adjustment is made at the next update? Too much highs and not enough lows...
You can try changing the sound with these System Settings, I thought changing the Volume Effect Intensity to 2 made it sound a lot better on mine (not just louder).
Capture (resized).PNG
Flippers died in the middle of a game then worked after the ball drained, happened several times last night. I haven't done any troubleshooting yet , anyone else have this happen?
Quoted from crwjumper:Probably a bad opto or solder connection in the ball trough. When (False) triggered it thinks that the ball has drained and is in the trough.
Thanks, I'll check it out.
Quoted from crwjumper:Probably a bad opto or solder connection in the ball trough. When (False) triggered it thinks that the ball has drained and is in the trough.
The 5V connector to the trough boards had a splayed pin, reformed it all good...
Trough5V (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from JoeJet:Hi, just picked up a Dialed In ..love it!
A few questions though..
1) I am used to pushing the back leg levelers all the way up and then adjusting down. This game I have a legs all the way down and it's still above the third bubble line when it should be at 2...so I need the actually raise the front?
2) maybe because I am not level so I got a ball stuck at upper level. But looking at the protector, looks like a real ball trap...is this how the clear plastic piece is supposed to look? Thanks!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
1) On this game (and I think all JJ) unlike other manufacturers games, when all of the leg levelers are extended by the same amount the game should be at the correct angle, bubble touching the second line. This is because the front legs sit up higher on the cabinet than on B/W and other games.
2) You're pretty steep and likely why its trapped there but it can happen. Others have added a post there to prevent it from trapping.
Mine was built 9/26/2017 and I received it in October 2017, it had JJP protectors. JJ sent me a set of real Cliffys after I requested them probably in January 2018.
2 weeks later
Q: I was in Fire mode yesterday and required to hit the left ramp. Since Lock was lit Betty kept her arm down and therefore I could never hit the ramp made switch to progress in the mode (unless I locked the ball). Bug or intentional ? Running V1.61
Quoted from FatPanda:You should still be able to make progress in that mode with Betty's arm down. Check in switch test to see if it's registering with a ball.
I assume the first switch registers fine since I have no issues otherwise, but I'll check it. Normally a ramp is not counted until you hit the second ramp made switch which is not possible with her arm down.
Quoted from fnosm:In theory you can light SIM cards by completing modes and a handful of other ways too.
In practice I have only lit SIM cards by completing modes (proper or Big Bang)
Anyone ever light a SIM card other than completing modes? If so have your incorporated this into your game strategy? Any suggestions for someone that is jonesing for more SIM cards (aside from carryover)?
Yes the Bob Multiballs, I got a SIM Card lit for Monkey Wrench MB yesterday, 3 balls past Betty lights it. Have also lit it by hitting QED guy 15+ times in High Voltage Multiball. I have not lit it in Drones Gone Wild MB yet (3 jackpots to light it)
1 month later
I have updated to 1.71 and all of the problems spoken about here have manifested... Video Lag and random phone kickout strength. I have also noticed that when the system is busy trying to keep up, the callout voices are sped up. "shoot the theatre" sounds like Alvin the Chipmunks sister. I haven't proven it yet but sometimes the countdown timer during modes seems to run faster than real time. Anyone else notice these things?
I purchased my DISE in Oct 2017 and it was born on 9/26/17.
So I am going to join the CPU upgrade gang to see what happens. Replacing the Celeron G1840 with Intel Core i3-4170 @3.7GHz , CPU PassMark 5192 vs 2859.
cpuinfo (resized).jpgQuoted from Insanity199:Please post your results when you are done. What made you choose that processor in particular? Good deal on it somewhere?
Yup , I chose it because there was a warrantied refurb one on Amazon.ca for $59 CDN. New one is $180
Quoted from Rob_G:Link for the cpu on Amazon?
Rob
There was only the one used one @$59. New ones are $160 + shipping
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016YJQU0E/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00
Quoted from Kevlar:About time JJP spoke up about the CPU/slowdown issue although if they acknowledge it I guess they'd have to do something about it ( or not! )
This is a tough one, I guess JJP may be trying to figure out their position on this. Yes the older systems (mine included) do have less powerful hardware but isn't this the case with all electronics today? If you buy a new PC or Phone now for the same price as one last year it will generally have newer faster hardware. Perhaps they could offer code updates based on hardware capability.
Quoted from snaroff:It's not tough. If you make a CPU change, the "platform" should change. For example: Stern has developed many platforms over the years with different board sets....Whitestar, SAM, Spike-1, Spike-2.
Apples and oranges, JJPs base is commercial off the shelf hardware and Linux O/S and as such it is infinitely more adaptable. Code testing requirements on compatible hardware would be minimal. I for one am happy that I can upgrade my hardware, which means if they have the inclination to keep updating the game software I will be able to take advantage of it. After all one of the biggest bitches about Stern is their lack of code updates.
Quoted from koops:Latest code, celeron cpu, early le build no lag.
People replacing CPU’s and it seemingly fixing the issues are just brute forcing the problem by throwing hardware at it.
I’d wager it’s just a bug, driver incompatibility or new feature if a software upgrade is causing the problem.
I wonder if those with lag have high numbers of games played = longer powered on time = dirty fans = Huge cpu throttling?
With my previous hobbit streaming/splunk hacking I found the the overall cpu utilization from normal game code is very low. I could easily understand why a celeron was chosen. During that same time I was playing around with getting my machine to software encode for streaming. In doing so I could cause it to lag.
For dialed in it has three screens so perhaps that can make the difference if all three are playing at once.
I haven’t installed a splunk forwarder into my dialed in yet. If i could be bothered it would quickly give an idea of how busy the system truely is.
Mine is an early build Celeron Aug 2017, HUO , only turned on when playing, I'd estimate only a few hundred games on it. Fan was clean and unobstructed. Out of curiosity how much memory does yours have? I noticed the video Lag started in v1.6 , that's when they completed the animations I believe. It was annoying but livable. With v1.71 to me it was broken, animations and call outs were so far behind it was unplayable. The CPU upgrade solved everything but yes it quite possibly is just throwing hardware at a code issue. It would be nice to get some cpu/mem usage information from it if you get the time that'd be great.
1 week later
Quoted from ralphs007:I think you still have to load 1.60/1.61 before you update to 1.71,but I could be wrong?
Yes you have to upgrade to 1.60 full install and Delta to 1.71
1 week later
Quoted from altan:Anyone have a pic of the standard’s flash? I’m just interested. Really curious why not on LE.
I read that the reason for this was that operators would likely purchase SEs for putting on location and the Flash would draw attention, whereas LEs would more likely be HUO.
diflash (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from altan:I’m about 6’4”. I realized last night the quantum theater isn’t angled correctly for me.
There are some modes where numbers appear at the top of the display. I cannot see them unless I bend down!
I’m thinking of putting some “shims” of short under the front to angle it better. Anyone done this or considered it?
I haven’t looked at the mech yet but hopefully it’s straight forward.
Have you tried 3" leg levelers
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/LL3
1 week later
1 month later
Quoted from the_zap:It just occurred to me that before 1.73, I frequently had the problem with the red tinted phone screen on game startup (like this one: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/102#post-4540875). Since 1.73, the phone screen seems to be brighter than before and the tinting has not recurred a single time. Fingers crossed that they actually fixed the problem in software!
Can anybody else confirm my observation?
I had numerous problems with the phone, Yellow Tint, Red Tint, Blank.... to the point where I put a switch in-line with the phone power so I could reset it without powering off the game. Since 1.7x I have had ZERO phone issues and have removed my reset switch.
Quoted from T3quila:The interesting question is if this game makes actually use of the additional cores/threads an i5 would give you over an i3 or if the higher clocked i3 is actually better despite being overall weaker and cheaper.
Yes as indicated earlier in the thread it appears to be a single threaded application so I went with the Core i3-4170 @3.7GHz since it's single threaded performance was better than some of the i5s and it only cost me $60. The game works flawlessly with it.
1 week later
Quoted from altan:Anyone have trouble with the molex connector that goes to the trough boards?
Yes I have
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/152#post-4945053
2 months later
Quoted from FatPanda:The sim card is also a VERY important part of the game, both in scoring, and in advancing to the final wizard mode. Some people are turned off by the difficulty of it, but because of the fact that it is so impactful in doing well in this game.
There are other strategies such as rebounding it off the Big Bang or Tic target. My favorite shot in Pinball is rebounding off the Lit Big Bang into the Sim Hole for instant Sim Card satisfaction.....
1 year later
You may find that the switch spoon is off center , in which case just loosen switch stack and center it or if you need to adjust the switch you’ll need a Switch adjustment tool.
Everything you wanted to know about pop bumpers is here thanks to vid1900
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers
Switch adjusting tool (resized).png 2 weeks later
Quoted from Dreadreaper:Would I be stupid to remove the jjp cliffies on the 2 scoops and replace them with mylar? I just think the game would play way better.
I would say go for it, maybe get a cliffy for the phone. JJP replaced the JJP protectors with Real Cliffys back when it was new, they are a lot thinner than JJPs. I took it off the Sim card hole and just put mylar.
Quoted from Yesh23:Trying to upgrade fro 1.13 with a full install to 1.60 and I've followed JJP steps perfectly and no go
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"a196847b95e03fb3344919a2ccd1b7907a4a999f-1625452455-1800"};
//]]>I've even tried multiple USB sticks with no luck. The port recognizes the sticks but again no luck....does anyone have any thoughts?
Make sure the stick is formatted Fat 32.
1 week later
Quoted from dgposter:Have any others out there removed the protection from the Sim Card scoop? I'd love to hear more opinions about the success rate of this shot without the cliffy or JJP protector installed.
I took it off and added mylar , AND took the rubber off the post which really helped
1 month later
Quoted from StachedMan:I would have thought a computer geek pinhead like me would have done it already on here … lol
Did this 2 years ago…. Core i3-4170 @3.7GHz works like a charm fixed all the lag before they tried to fix in s/w. Another note is that you don’t need a bunch of cores as the game code runs single threaded
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/175#post-5145382
1 month later
Any reason why this one wouldn't work? Dialed In doesn't see it but works fine on my PC.
https://www.microcenter.com/product/604933/tp-link-archer-t3u-ac1300-mini-wireless-mu-mimo-usb-adapter
Quoted from mbwalker:I bought the AC600 that was mentioned, was recognized w/o issue and then logged into my router. Haven't tried ScorBit yet. One thing I noticed between those two is the AC600 is USB 2.0, the AC1300 being USB 3.0.
Don't think that would make a difference - just pointing that out in case there's some sort of hardware quirk.
Oh yes indeed thanks for pointing that out, it might well be the issue, It lights up as soon as I plug it in my laptop but does nothing in DI.
Quoted from grabul:Hello,
my update from 1.73 to 1.75 failed.
After removing the usb thumb drive and rebooting the machine it stuck with an error.
Any suggestions are welcome.
[quoted image]
I get the same /dev/usb and dev-sdb1 errors but doesn’t affect the game, it still boots and plays fine, scorbit works fine too.
1 week later
Quoted from coz6:It was sort of easy to remove, I don't think you have to take the ramp off - Its been a long time since I did it and would not look back, even if the area does get damaged it goes into the enjoy the game and take the few bucks off when you sell...
What he said … you can put some mylar on it to give some protection, I also took the rubber off the post which maybe a bit of a cheat but doesn’t by any means make it easy.
Quoted from prentice:Just bought a DI LE and still getting the feel for shots, but my wife and I have had a ton of metallic-sounding rejects from the phone scoop. A Mantis protector is installed as shown in the picture. Is this gap normal or should I get in there and try to move it closer to the front of the hole somehow? (I'm not even sure how it is attached yet..)
Thanks!
[quoted image]
That is not good, I’d remove it put some mylar on it and order a cliffy
1 week later
Quoted from bossk4hire:Other than the powder coating and invisiGlass.... what is the difference between the SE and LE?
No camera flash on the LE
LE has LEDs on the ramps that sync with the playfield lighting
I think that’s it
4 months later
I removed the Video card while it was turned off , then turned it on to replace the battery , gives you a lot more room......
1 month later
Those are definitely 3d printed not painted , you can see the stringing in the orange. Pretty good print job actually, but should be easy to remove.
Turn it off remove Video card, turn back on, replace the battery, turn off reinstall the video card, that’s how I did it.
Quoted from JvdS:So if you removed the video card you switched off the pin…? I thought we needed it to be on during swap of the battery…?
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