(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

2 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 9,615 posts
  • 521 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by cavalier88z24
  • Topic is favorited by 173 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,164 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20191208_124001 (resized).jpg
C28B2AF0-A559-458E-91C4-B3C9B55FB24E (resized).jpeg
20191129_181029 (resized).jpg
20191129_174254 (resized).jpg
20191129_172356 (resized).jpg
20191129_172155 (resized).jpg
20191129_172219 (resized).jpg
20191129_172203 (resized).jpg
20191122_143930 (resized).jpg
E50F81DD-F160-409F-AC46-7F047A115CA5 (resized).jpeg
E2D85548-0FAD-46AA-81C5-9F189E905965 (resized).jpeg
A771B04B-D393-47C5-A152-E5C9E5410BD0 (resized).jpeg
20191119_141353 (resized).jpg
20191119_141331 (resized).jpg
20191119_141326 (resized).jpg
20191119_141259 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (2 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (2 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (2 years ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (2 years ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (2 years ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (2 years ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (2 years ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (2 years ago)

Post #1253 Velcro fix for right ramp hangup Posted by cooked71 (2 years ago)

Post #1258 Detailed pictures for adjusting a misbehaving trap door Posted by foobeer (2 years ago)

Post #1332 Getting access to computer in backbox on Dialed In Posted by hank527 (2 years ago)

Post #1347 Ball trap location. Posted by Kevlar (2 years ago)

Post #1377 Fix for USB at the coin door not working Posted by Pinhead1982 (2 years ago)

Post #1391 Fix for Tilt Bob not working all of a sudden Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

Post #1431 Adjustment point to grease for trap door to operate smoothly Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Post #1451 Adjusting arm on Quantum Mechanic Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

Post #2507 How to get in backbox to check audio connections Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #2661 DIY Lighting how-to for sides of Dialed In backglass Posted by lyonsden (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider lermods.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#283 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Has anyone connected a sub-woofer to Dialed In yet? I just got mine (S/N 900) and am setting it up (Woo-hoo) and have a sub to install. It looks like all of the electronics are now in the head (JJP - always innovating and impoving) but I don't want to remove the screen at least until I've played it a few times. Anyone know how this is done? Thanks in advance!

I connected an external sub to the cabinet speaker, typical install. Monitor comes out pretty easy. Loosen screws holding wood blocks, slide out of the way, lift the brackets on each side and monitor comes out on it's arm.

#302 2 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

Anybody having trouble hitting the sin shot with the protector,I am and have tryed raising the scoup deflector like someone recommend to do to the sim shot and that was before the protector was s factory idem ,that shot is hard enough but with the protector almost impossible for me and I have tryed holding the ball by hand and still no luck with the shot ,I may have to remove and just protect with clear gorilla tape

Is this a factory protector you have? Not clear from your post it is. I wouldn't trust gorilla tape. Cliffys stuff is usually really good, never had one impact a shot.

1 week later
#368 2 years ago

I think this has been shown before but thought I'd add my experience installing the set of cliffys. Overall, took about 20 minutes for the sim card hole and 20 minutes for the scoop.

Sim Card hole: Remove the two screws (circled in red) on the ramp flap and lift the ramp. You can rest the ramp flap on the QED guy (you want to make sure the QED guy is about an inch away from the left side so the ramp can clear. I circled the bottom of the ramp flap in the picture because when I was done, I put a piece of mylar for the ramp to rest on. That ramp flap is sharp and I was afraid it could dig into the playfield over time.
20170902_102427 (resized).jpg

With the ramp up and out of the way, remove the rubber on the two posts, then remove the posts and left screw circled in red. Loosen the four screws circled in blue. Everything can be done from the top. The right screw circled in blue allows the cliffy to slide under the metal ball guide. There is not a lot of gap even with that loosen, but eventually you'll get it slid under. I wrestled with it a bit. The back two screws are loosened to allow the 2nd piece of the cliffy to slide under (cliffy's set only has two pieces, i think the factory has three pieces). That's about it, reinstall and tighten everything down and you are done. it was a perfect fit on my game.
20170902_102301 (resized).jpg

Phone Scoop:
Remove the plastic behind the phone, it's held on with one screw (circled).
20170902_102621 (resized).jpg

Remove the two nuts holding the phone bracket (circled). Phone can be moved out of the way, no need to disconnect any wires.
20170902_102346 (resized).jpg

Remove the rubber and the two posts, these must be done from below as they are held on with nuts. I had a hard time getting the right one out and had to use a hammer and nail set to punch it out. Once removed, cliffy slides in, reinstall everything
20170902_104703 (resized).jpg

I also installed the switch slot protectors and the skill shot protectors, they just pop in. Note that I do not adhere them to the playfield, they lie flat as is. next up is the shooter lane.
20170902_102522 (resized).jpg
20170902_092048 (resized).jpg
20170902_102517 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#397 2 years ago

With the phone scoop installed, the shot is harder to hit, which I kind of like since it was too easy without it. Sim card is the same with or without the protector.

#402 2 years ago
Quoted from mrofnoc:

The phone scoop protector made it harder on mine, and even worse as the protector deformed from ball hits. It's worse than it looks in the pic as the top is dented which you can't see real well in the pic. The right side got it worse which I blamed on the mini post, could be wrong, but replaced that post with sleeve like the one to the left of the scoop and removed the protector. Much better now.
The ball kept getting hung up on the skill shot protector, so it had to go as well.
Sim hole protector is great and so is the one for the trough.
No clue what that other one in the kit was for. Shaped like a V and maybe 2 inches long.

If your game isn't steep enough, the ball can get hung up on the skill shot protector. I set my game at 7 and occasionally it will still gets stuck, but a slight nudge sets it free.

2 weeks later
#630 2 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

JJP sent me the metal protectors for the phone and sim scoops a couple of days ago. Both scoops already appear to have milar on them and I don't seem to see any issues of wear without having the metal protectors on and they appear to be quite a bit of work to put them on. I am sure it is best to put the metal protectors on but are they really necessary and what exactly would be the issue if I didn't put them on?

Yes, the clear coat will start chipping on the Sim hole.

20170822_153406 (resized).jpg

#649 2 years ago

I have the cliffy protectors. At first, making the scoop did seem more difficult, but over time with use, it seems to have settled in and I can now make it with no issue. I also pushed the sides in a little. I don't notice and spin from the eject.

#652 2 years ago
Quoted from stpcore:

I have the Cliffy set as well. I may swap it for comparison. The SIM card hole is nearly impossible to hit with the protector on from the upper right flipper (I know...play better). It seems like the only time I collect a SIM card is on a ricochet from the left of theater stand up target so that's where I aim now.

Sim card hole is difficult with or without the protector. It's a blind shot so always going to be tough to hit. I don't notice any difference on the Sim shot.

#682 2 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

We are looking to buy step stools for our 4 yo twins to play pinball. We have WOZ but don't have our Dialed In yet. Could someone measure the distance between the legs of their Dialed In 10 inches off the ground so we now how wide apart they are. We only have the wide body WOZ for reference. Thanks.


#751 2 years ago

What do you need to hit to light the ball lock?

For Big Bang, it lights when you complete a mode?

When are SIM cards collectible?

My high is 2.1 mil, but I’ve mostly focused on combos and completing the disaster modes.

#828 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I've had the drone magnet toss it into the SIM scoop. FTW!

I’ve had it throw it in the left outline. Potc has the same crazy magnets as di.

#831 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Potc only has 2 and one is a diverter style in the orbit and other is back by the chest. They wont be near as active and effect gameplay like di...

Are you sure, when I played at expo, admittedly, just one game, the ball was getting thrown everywhere. I can’t recall if it was the discs or magnets, but I distinctly remember thinking it was just like DI.

#862 2 years ago

Sounds like the camera is not plugged in or is not pointing in the right direction. Pull the back glass and take a look at it.

#895 2 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

Where should lock ramp/station 3 wire form exit to instead of SDTM? Left or right flipper?

Edge of left flipper.

#1008 2 years ago
Quoted from Gizmonic:

Trap Door fix that worked for me:
» YouTube video

Nice, great explanation of how the door works. The issue I have is that the ramp flap doesn’t sit entirely flush with the play field, which I’m guessing prevents a clean shot around the loop.

#1024 2 years ago

You guys getting to Armageddon are impressive. I have a top score of about 2.3 mil, but haven't come close I don't think. I play on factory settings original code.

#1045 2 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Well shoot the JJP phone scoop protector is starting to bum me out as it has really made the shot much more difficult. I played a bunch of games last night and am getting more frustrated with the rejected shots as I could hit the phone scoop at will without the protector. Any feedback on the Cliffy phone scoop protector, does it also make the shot very difficult to make?

At first it did, but after a bit of play, no issues.

#1125 2 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

My cabinet is also "split" like that in the bottom left side on the front but it's covered by the leg so I just ignored it. It's clearly glued that way from the factory and isn't a stress crack. Game is otherwise flawless.

you can use wood glue, pour some into the hole and then use a bar or strap clamp to bring it back together, should be good as new. Not saying you should have to do this with a new game, but to save headaches, this is the easiest course of action and results in no down time.

#1241 2 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

Anyone having issue with the ball being ejected to the shooter lane ? Got my Friday most of the time it takes 3 tries to get the ball ejected, I tried to boost power in settings, Did nothing.
Also having ball hang up issues at switch in front of skill shot plunger. If ball goes in slowly it just stops at switch . Talked to Frank at tech, He never heard of the issue. Its happened about a handful of times

Make sure your game is leveled correctly for skill shot. Not sure about trough, but make sure nothing is lodged in there and that everything is tight.

#1279 2 years ago

The two switches on my left ramp (the one by Betty and the one after that, not the one at the entrance) have very loose actuator arms. Is anyone else's like that. Trying to see if it's normal. Usually the arms are firm on switches.

#1286 2 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I think mine are pretty loose as well. Born date 10/5/17. Haven't had any issues with them though.

Mine were not consistently registering last night. Went into test mode and they register when I push on them and roll a ball through, but I think during game play when the ball moves fast, it doesn’t register all the time. During whirlwind mode, I kept hitting the ramp with no registered hits. After I went into test mode and pushed on the switches, the next game they were fine. I opened a ticket so will see what jjp says about it.

#1327 2 years ago
Quoted from zucot:

Is the monitor supposed to lock into those latches? am I supposed to remove the wood blocks installed above the latches so that they pegs can slide them up and lock into place?

Yes. No need to remove the blocks, just loosen and twist them out of the way.

#1457 2 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Have my game at 7.0 bc iike them less floaty. Game plays great and is very fast and difficult.

Mine too and I have no issues with balls falling off wire forms, bouncing out of lanes or getting stuck anywhere. I've never had to pull the glass for a stuck ball.

#1461 2 years ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

I had the same issue and nothing worked until I found this link. http://funwithbonus.com/dialed-in-day-trap-door-issue/
Even in that photo posted, you can see the issue. See that tab sticking straight up in the air in the middle of the yellow arrow? That is the adjustment, and it should be bent over on the plate. Follow that link above to adjust.

Mine adjustment tab sticks straight out and I have no issues with the trap door opening and closing. Not clear why it happens on some games and not others.

#1488 2 years ago

Do you still have Mylar over your magnet? It could be wearing slightly and changing how the magnet grabs and releases it.

#1527 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Online. Right out of the box, my diverter wasn't working, B.O.B scoop not closing, wireform does not hold ball and instead hops over into drain, phone scoop ejecting balls super fast one shot, then super slow down the middle the next, two snapped rubbers, the pf is so tight to the cab, that put it back into the the resting position almost takes force that feels like you're going to chipped off the edge of the wood, and of course, those annoying metal protectors that rejects shots more than they protect anything.
I've bought three games NIB, and I've had issues with all unfortunately. I think I have shitty luck with pins. But CGC was so quick to provide support, that I got things up and running quickly. Pretty disappointed with all the issues I have to now work through to get this game running after paying as much as I did!

Your metal hangers likely need to be bent back slightly, I had the same issue.

I’d check your phone scoop coil mount under the play field, it may be loose.

Bob trap door is common, detailed fix if you search the forum, even a nice video.

Not sure about balls flying off the ramp, not had that issue, maybe just an alignment of the wire form or leveling issue.

Snapped rubbers seems odd, but that’s an easy fix and not common.

Cliffys are the way to go. I was a little pissed I had to spend another $115 to address sim hole chipping. Seems jjp missed that one.

Jjp has always responded quickly via email, maybe just send a follow up.

Overall, everything you describe is really minor. Very few nib games are perfect. My AFMr had all its coils dead out of the box. Turned out, the coin door wasn’t engaging the interlock switch enough. Simple adjustment.

#1544 2 years ago
Quoted from pinhacker71:

Ok. Cliffy sent me the info. Question is do I go for the hole protectors for 54 or the whole set for 100 something. . Not sure what others are for.

You want the phone scoop, sim hole and two inlane switch protectors plus the shooter lane. You don’t need the skill shot protector, I got too many ball hang ups with it on and took it off.

#1557 2 years ago

I added a second set of metal leg protectors. The legs are now sitting about 1/16" off the cabinet and will never cause an issue.

#1657 2 years ago

Nothing wrong with 1.5. I’ve been using it since the day it was released with no issues.

#1772 2 years ago
Quoted from venom112:

I am on the fence anybody that just got the game with the latest code have impressions. I am looking at Star Wars I like guardians of the galaxy. I know the code is bad right now but where would you rank dialed in? Is it worth 8k or 9k when you can get a stern for between 5-7k depending on the model? Dialed in looks amazing but is it worth the extra money??

It’s not even close between di and sw. haven’t played gotg, but I doubt very much it will be anywhere near the quality and game play of di.

2 weeks later
#1992 1 year ago
Quoted from tryton1000:

Hi Everyone, I'm having this little issue. Sometimes when I turn on the game, I get this Flickering in the Betty light as well as my Lock mod. To fix, I just need to reboot the game. But when it's happening, it seems like the game has low power, The phone scoop seems to just push the ball out, not fling it out like normal, and the flippers seems to have lost power as well. It's really strange. I took a video » YouTube video

I asked the flickering question to jjp support staff and was told it is normal behavior. My game does it too sometimes.

#2046 1 year ago

For those having issues with their phone scoop kickout, check your protector. I have a genuine cliffy on mine and I noticed the flaps were bending outward and possibly affecting the path of the ball. I removed the cliffy and bent the flaps back in and it seems pretty consistent again, no sdtm.

20171216_203206 (resized).jpg

20171216_195510 (resized).jpg

#2049 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

The Cliffy 2.0s don't have this issue. Cut the part below the bend at the bevel, file to smooth the edges and you'll have a Cliffy 2.0.

I just bent back the flaps back, should be fine now as pic shows. If they bend out again, which I don’t expect, I’ll cut them off.

#2108 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

PSA: Make sure you install mylar or a cliffy at the inlane drops. Because the wireforms drop the ball right on the switch, the wood on each side of the switch gets destroyed quite quickly. It will chip, and then make a black mark that will eventually get ingrained into the wood.
For the cleanest look, get a square piece of thicker mylar and put it right on the center of the inlane switch. Then cut out the open switch area. You won't even know it's there.

Or use cliffy’s switch protectors.

1 week later
#2206 1 year ago

Hit chaos in qc mode for the first time last time, cool mode! I got zero SIM cards, ugh, so my score was very low. Game has a lot going for it.

2 weeks later
#2399 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

After much agony flipping between machines I've settled in on a DI LE as my first pin.
Just looking around trying to find the best place to buy. I'm in NorCal, but happy to have it shipped. Is it best to order direct from JJP, or a particular dealer I should look to?


#2407 1 year ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

this game is clearly a monster drain, isn't it?
and some shot are clearly tough like sim card and vuk shot (don't know why so many shots who seem to be perfect are finally "rejected").
you need to hit the sim card with the ball you play or you loose it for the next.
the ball is really difficult to pass from one flipper bat to the other, really different from stern or B/W.
trying hard but frustrating right now
what are your set up? buble level, outlane, flipper bat..

There is a setting to carry over the SIM card to the next ball. SIM card shot is pure luck, which is unfortunate because it’s the key to high scoring. rest of my game plays perfect on factory settings, except theater magnet set at -105. Wish sim card shot was more like camera shot on tz.

#2410 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

That's a bit much. I've had 4 Sims stacked and collected them all. It's hard, becasue it's the key to scoring...makes sense.

Nope, pure luck on my game and I’m a decent player. Only way it gets into sim hole is an indirect shot/bounce. Most I’ve ever had in a game is 2 or 3. It’s a poorly designed shot. I agree it shouldn’t be easy, which I why I don’t carry it over, but it has to be better than luck.

#2429 1 year ago

The easiest way to make the sim shot is a bank shot off the left side of the left theater target. I have never made it via the upper flipper. I tried shooting it late off the flipper last night, no luck. I’ll keep trying, but it is the hardest shot I’ve come across in pinball. Used to be the treehouse shot in tspp, which is also a little blind, this is much harder, at least for me.

#2433 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Regarding SIM card shot. I’ve played 2 different DI’s.
First did not have any type of scoop protector and I was hitting SIM shot without too much trouble. I blew that game up for 10+ mil and got to showdown.
The second had the JJP protector and the shot seemed to be Much tougher. I was only able to collect a few SIM cards and only able to get as far as Armageddon.
If I owned the game, I’d be very tempted to remove the protector. Have any owners done this and noticed a difference (for the better) with the success of the shot?

Can’t remove the cliffy protector, my clear was shipping before I put it on. I don’t think it’s the protector, it’s the geometry of the shot and the way the hole is designed.

If anyone can consistently make the shot, I’d love to see a video of it.

#2481 1 year ago

Well, I bit the bullet and changed my SIM card setting to carry over. First game I’ve ever had to set up to make easier. Feel a tad guilty, but Ive been playing it a lot lately and no matter what I do, I cannot make the shot. Whether it’s my game set up or skill, it’s no fun never collecting SIM cards. Even with carryover, it’s still difficult as I have to count on a bank shot. I complete modes a lot, very rarely/almost never collect the SIM card. Seeing the lit insert after I drain feels like I have a better chance to advance.

#2509 1 year ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Two of the LEDs around my DI's phone seemed to have gone dead. They don't come on in test mode either. I reseated the CAT5 cables on both ends, no change. Should I just open a ticket and get some new LEDs?

Which two? If it’s the two lower right on the bottom, it’s normal I believe.

#2575 1 year ago

Ive got an led out in my phone, #17 lower right. Blank in test mode. Is there a fix for this?

#2591 1 year ago

The theater magnet has become a pia. Way too erratic. It should never drop it sdtm, but some times it will. They need to fix the magnet behavior in the next code release. Either it throws it up and around or the qed guy needs to move to deflect it coming down. There should not be a need for any other behavior. The adjustments don't seem to hold. I know it's random, but if that is the way it supposed to be, why have a setting at all. It has nothing to do with the mylar over it.

This was an issue with twd prison magnet, but you can hit the flippers, it will pulse the magnet and throw it so it doesn't go sdtm.

#2600 1 year ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

So... this is NOT a paid advertisement :eye roll towards the haters:. Now that we got that out of the way. I wanted to share my first ever experience with Pinstadium lights. The package came well prepared and organized. I did about 10 minutes of phone help with Dialed In because it’s just a tad more complex than plug and play but easy enough for someone who has 0 mechanical ability. With that said. Here are 2 photos in 100% dark room. 1st is with 75% blue and 100% white. The second is 100% white settings. AEnjoy! This is definitely a top three mod for me now going into the future behind pdi glass and a color dmd. It looks even better in person!

Maybe it’s your camera, but the “on” picture washes out the drone and bob lights compared to the “off” pic. I suspect it would wash out other insert lights too. I much prefer accent lighting where it is dark and not putting a spotlight on the entire play field. The insert lights on the game really pop and when you shine a light on them, the effect is lost.

#2630 1 year ago
Quoted from Strummy:

Iis the bottom right led out on my phone?

Led 17? I posted same issue yesterday. Filed a ticket with jjp, will see what they say.

#2637 1 year ago

I have mirror blades on mine. Clearance is not an issue. I used bw blades and the holes didn't line up. Not sure if I got a bad batch because I have bw blades on my hobbit and woz, no issues. I had to elongate the holes with a large drill bit using my drill press. They look great.

#2656 1 year ago

The sides are nice. We have an rgb version for the backbox.

#2666 1 year ago


Led 17 on the phone is supposed to be very dim, it’s obscured by wiring per jjp. They should all look like this.

On sdtm from theater magnet, I raised the back right leg a few turns and it helped a lot, very few sdtm; game still feels level.

#2738 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

So, here's an email I just received from Mirco regarding the lines on the pf:
"The clearcoat is one of the hardest and best you can find on the market and the mix is done by a robot. So no human error can occur. The damage is caused by the balls. All other ideas are simply wrong. Most of the people who write on pinside don't really know what they are talking about...."

he's got a point there

1 week later
#2831 1 year ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Yeah I'd be pissed off don't get me wrong, but at some point you just want the damn thing fixed and I guess that's what they're counting on, right?
I'll tell you what, though. It turns me off from buying a DILE. I'm this close. But there's a lot of machines out there on the market at 1/2 price or less. Why deal with the BS?

Not all games have issues, I'd guess most don't. Mine has been flawless, nothing I couldn't easily fix myself. Only issue I really had was chipping on sim card hold and I wasn't happy I had to buy a cliffy set, but the game has been fantastic otherwise.

If you like tz and fh, you will love di. If tz and fh aren't your cup of tea, you may not like di as the shots are very familiar. The code is deep, it has great sound and visuals and cool toys.

#2833 1 year ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

The game is awesome - I'd buy it again even knowing of the minor issues.
So you have no static? - I have 2 prong outlets in my home. I wonder if that's the issue..

I get a pop on start up, same with hobbit and woz, but zero static thereafter.

#2875 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

I'm considering adding these mirrorblades to my Dialed in: http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/jersey-jack-pinball/dialed-in/mirror-blades-for-jersey-jack-pinball-spiegelblech.html
Have anyone tried these blades? Is it hard to do the install? Guess I have to remove the playfield completely? Is that a hassle to do by yourself?

Playfield does not need to be removed to install, they slide in, same way all mirror blades go in. I got mine from cointaker.

#2888 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Tight fit on jjp pins from my experience

Not at all, have them on all three jjp games, plenty of clearance.

#2891 1 year ago
Quoted from pinstadium:

Yes there are some mirror blades that are a little thicker than others and that would definitely make for an issue. Can anyone recommend the thinnest quality brands that you feel have excellent clearance?

I use cointaker for all my games. Never had an issue with thickness.

#2914 1 year ago
Quoted from brucipher:

Glad that JJP is now using real Cliffys, but annoyed that I paid for a set of them out of pocket.

Completely agree.

#2933 1 year ago
Quoted from johninc:

I bought mine from Pinball Side Mirrors when they were on sale. They make a custom set for Dialed In.

Whom I think was recently purchased by cointaker.

1 week later
#2978 1 year ago
Quoted from whitey:

Dialed in Owners ???
I'm about to order a DI LE, just met a guy who bought and sold ? He claims he couldn't figure out the game ? Destroy the city or save the city ? Everyone else I talk to really likes the game ??

It’s not hard to figure out. Hit qed guy, hit the scoop, start a mode. Do that 11 times, get to chaos. Finish a mode, light SIM card, shoot SIM card, light a letter. Light all the letters, get to Armageddon or showdown, never got there so not sure. In between that there are multiballs to get and bob target modes. Hit bob targets, shoot the trap door and start another mode. It’s not difficult really.

1 week later
#3109 1 year ago
Quoted from Cloud7:

I should have posted a pic in the first place. Here is what I have going on.

Looks like he mounted too low

#3118 1 year ago

Was getting some erratic behavior with my phone scoop kick out. Speed and direction were very inconsistent and about 1 out of 10 times it would send it sdtm. I changed the kick out setting to 18 from 20, which is supposed to be softer, but the ball actually shoots out faster. This solved the problem as the kick out is now very consistent to the right flipper. Thought I’d post in case anyone else is experiencing a similar issue. Nothing worse than starting a mode and having it kick down the middle. In the next code update, they might want to consider activating ball save for a second or two when scoop coil is fired. I think GB does this.

1 week later
#3267 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

This topper from mezel mods looks awesome

Here’s a better photo lit up, really nice looking topper! It’s just about complete, they say the side pieces and lightning bolts will be slightly different. I think people are going to be happy with it.

image (resized).jpg

#3269 1 year ago
Quoted from romulusx:

How much does it cost?

Contact them, I don’t think they’ve released that yet.

#3290 1 year ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

My keys for the back box will not unlock the back box. I’ve had it open before so I have no idea what’s going on. The key won’t turn the lock. I’ve wiggled, shaked, twisted to no avail. Only other game I have is WOZ and I tried those keys to see if they got switched but those only unlock WOZ. Any suggestions ?

Curious as to what your manufacture date is? Many of us had this issue, my game is from July, but I thought this had been addressed. You’ll need a security torx bit to loosen the lock, available at most hardware stores.

#3309 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

The Test Lab often just wiggles and drops it SDTM still, anyone else getting this?
I feel this game would be a solid 10/10 if the theater wasn't such a center drain and if the SIM shot wasn't such an impossible and improbable shot. Wish it was more like the camera shot in TZ.

Raise your back right leg three turns and it won’t go sdtm anymore. Your game will still be roughly level

#3410 1 year ago
Quoted from geoncic:

I received my dialed in today! It arrived in perfect condition. A bit bigger than I expected, but was able to wrestle it in the door with two people.
One question: What's the best way to remove the quantum theater to be able to cut the Mylar away from the magnet? How bug of a job is that?
After a few games, I can already feel rough spots on the Mylar over the magnets.

Remove the magnet from the bottom, just a few screws, then use an exacto knife and cut it out.

1 week later
#3485 1 year ago
Quoted from geoncic:

Any tips on adjusting so I can backhand the scoop? It seems like I have enough power, but not the right angle. I either hit too late or it hits the sling post.

I cannot backshand the scoop when the ball is resting on the right flipper. I can only do it when the ball is coming at the flipper with some speed. I cannot backhand the left ramp reliably, it’s a tough shot and I don’t want to increase flipper power.

1 week later
#3619 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Placed an order today with my distributor for a Dialed In LE. I asked my distributor if I could get a game with the newest production date possible. Well, he managed to get me a game coming off the line tomorrow so that works! Really excited to get this game.

I see you have tz. If you like tz, you will love DI. It’s like tz on steroids.

#3624 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

TZ's ramps are rear central. It has a second playfield. It's magnets are utilized for specific, aimed game play. It has no side ramp. It's bumpers are close left. It's a widebody. I guess they both have orbits and a right hand scoop?
Not trying to bash; I just think they are apples to oranges. Completely different pins, but they do have that Lowler feel...

Scoop same location
Camera shot same as SIM card
Right orbit similar
Dead end same as trap door, fed to the scoop same way.
Shot through theater to upper right flipper to SIM card similar to tz left shot to upper flipper to camera.

Bumpers different
Targets different
Ramps flow/feed differently
Drone area different vs rocket
No upper pf.

Yeah, it’s different, but many similarities. That’s a good thing.

#3627 1 year ago

Much easier to understand and progress than woz. I’ve had woz a year and I still can’t figure out what’s going on.

#3632 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Yep that's y di is so great... it takes the best parts of his prior designs and meshes them all togeather in a total package that only jjp wld/cld do. Throw in all the lcd screens and today's tech and rgb lighting and you have a masterpiece imo. I really cant think of anything id change bc its so dam good.

Only thing I’d change is the geometry on the sim shot, make it more like the camera shot on tz. As it is now, it’s impossible to hit on my game. Agree that it’s a masterpiece.

#3639 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Id try messing with your upper flipper alignment and strength bc i can make my sim shot fairly often.

What’s your upper flipper strength set at?

#3646 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I dont' find that flipper power makes any difference with the sim shot. What makes a big difference is if you have the JJP protector on the sim shot or an authentic Cliffy. When I played a proto machine last year, it had no protector at all, and I could make the shot direct maybe 20% of the time. Mine has the JJP protector, and I make the shot direct maybe 5% of the time. I would imagine with a Cliffy it would balance somewhere in the middle at 12%. I would find this percentage acceptable, considering the value of the shot and the fact that flukes happen.

I have the cliffy, not jjp version. I dont think I’ve ever made the shot off the flipper, ramp shot is very easy.

#3657 1 year ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I am going to pick a DILE up and was wondering what I should be looking for as far a trouble areas or concern. Thanks in advance for any input

Not much to look for, it’s a solid game. If the game doesn’t have SIM card protection, check for cracking at the posts. Make sure trap door works.

#3726 1 year ago
Quoted from andrewket:

Shots to the theater are suddenly being dropped by the magnet and falling SDTM on my DI. It used to throw the ball up and around with the occasional drop down. I read the posts about cutting out the mylar, but I don’t think that’s the issue as the magnet is able to hold the ball just fine.
Anyone know the fix for this one?

Nothing fixed the magnet throw for me, made multiple changes to settings. Would work for a while then stop. It will do it occasionally now. Only thing I could fix is the sdtm by raising the back right leg three turns. Game is still level, but the ball now falls to the tip of the left flipper.

#3740 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

Thanks. I was reading it briefly. I found where it describes what to do, but not how they are intitiated...
Quick Multiballs
•Quick Drones Gone Wild Multiball:
o Hit drone standup to drop items. 3 super jackpots to light SIM card.
o Jackpots for each Drone hit. Super Jackpot is in the theatre (dropped by drone after collecting a jackpot).
•Quick High Voltage Multiball
o Hit the moving target for jackpots. 15 jackpots to light SIM Card.
•Quick Monkey Wrench Multiball
o Sneak past mechanic for jackpot. 3 Jackpots lights SIM Card. During this multiball Betty will be raising and lowering her wrench.
o During this multiball you must hit the left ramp and get your ball past Betty. She will be raising and lowering her wrench throughout the multiball in attempts to block your shot.
• NOTE: Any of the three Quick Multiball modes can stack up with Under Attack Multiball, and vice versa. As a result, shots that advance towards Under Attack Multiball can be made during Quick Multiball. More importantly, modes can be stacked, re-qualified, and started during any Quick Multiball, unlike Under Attack Multiball. This rule also applies for the three Crazy Modes.

they are started from crazy bob awards.

Crazy Bob’s
When lit Crazy Bob will award, in this order:

Crazy Mode (Blue BOB arrow/lamp)
+1x Bonus Multiplier (Yellow BOB arrow/lamp)
Quick Multiball (Red BOB arrow/lamp)
+1x Bonus Multiplier (Yellow BOB arrow/lamp)
…and repeat.

#3767 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Anyone think that a software update including a ball save for ejects from the phone that go SDTM would be a good idea? I know they did this on Ghostbusters.
Also, maybe having Chaos In QC having some sort of impact on the progress of your game, or possibly spitting out a SIM if you complete enough an objective during?

Adjust the settings on your phone scoop. I had a similar issue with sdtm, changed setting to I think 18 and it has been perfect ever since, always goes to right flipper.

3 weeks later
#4131 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I can see this for newbs, but I disagree with nerfing the rules. The game is way more fun when there is intense pressure to score a sim and/or relight kickback. I also dislike easy add a ball rules. On location though, these would be good settings to encourage coin drop.

If there was any skill to hitting the Sim card shot, I'd keep it from carrying over. Unfortunately, on my game it's not makeable off the flipper so I have it carry over. The game is still plenty difficult carrying over.

1 week later
#4252 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Picked up a iron maiden pro yesterday and while its fun with neat layout.... di is so much better playing and just has so much more to it. The stern pin just feels cheap and very very basic compared to jjp pins. I know its the pro but even the premium /le sterns dont hold a candle to jjp imo. Both have their places but ill gladly pay 8k + for jjp pins.

I have both too, I’m not so sure di is that much better, not $4k better. I’m definitely playing more Iron Maiden right now, maybe because it’s newer. Maiden plays very smooth, has a lot of shots and seems to have a good rule set, animations are great as is the sound and art.

#4254 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Dont get me wromg maiden is fun but cld have been amazing with a little more b.o.m.

That's a statement I would apply to every stern since about 2008.

#4330 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

Are you guys moving the Bob sign so you can see it? Where is the link to how to?

It's not hard to do. Unplug the three connectors on the sign, remove the plastic, drill out the two top rivets, drill two new holes, mount sign with small screws. Zoom in on my pic to see what I did.

IMG_20180529_205026 (resized).jpg

#4332 1 year ago
Quoted from rai:

I hate to drill holes, wish JJP had caught that during design.

You can’t see the holes when playing. Better to have the holes than not be able to see the sign is how I look at it.

1 week later
#4450 1 year ago

The magnet setting has nothing to do with sdtm drops. You need to raise the back right leg a few turns and the ball will fall to the left flipper. This was discussed on the jjp forum and was a suggestion from the designer. The magnet does not consistently throw the ball back on any setting, at least on my game. More often than not, it will drop the ball to the left flipper.

#4472 1 year ago

You can buff out scuffs and scratches in mirror blades. As long as you can't feel the scratch with your fingernail, you can buff them out.

I have cointaker blades on all my games and never had any issues with them and there has never been a game they haven't fit on and I've installed them on a lot of games. They are held in with two small screws so they come right out too.

1 week later
#4629 1 year ago

I had two SIM cards ready to collect and I thought I could collect them with one shot, but it seems you can’t stack them and each card requires a separate shot. I got four last night, my record.

Big Bang is a huge help to clearing modes.

3 weeks later
#4768 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

The code in this game is not deep. It's typical Pat Lawlor, which unfortunately is the same exact formula he's used for 25 years: Do thing, start mode, complete mode, with multiball sideshow. TAF and DI are practically the same rules.
TAF = Hit bear kick ramp to light mode
DI = Hit QED guy to light mode
TAF = Hit chair to start mode
DI = Hit phone to start mode
TAF = Complete all modes to start Tour the Mansion
DI = Complete all modes to start LITZ....er, Armageddon
DI adds in the SIM cards to extend the difficulty and longitivity of the game. But difficulty and deep code are not the same thing. Deep code? TSPP, Walking Dead, Iron Maiden, even Metallica.
Full disclosure: I own DILE. But I recommend buying used if you do, because the game has not held its value over the year or so it's been in production.

A lot of games are like that, tspp, lotr, etc. shoot krusty loop, shoot garage door, shoot couch, start mode. Start all modes to get to alien invasion with some MBs sprinkled around. Rinse and repeat. Lotr not much different. These are considered two of the deepest games ever made.

Very few, if any, nib games hold their value in first few years, but Ive had a lot of fun playing mine over the past year.

#4783 1 year ago

We picked up glasses, shirts and the poster, great work!

Quoted from Number41:

Hello DI fans!
I've only gotten to play the game a few times, but I recently had the chance to illustrate some cool Dialed In! artwork for Pintastic New England 2018. Gabe D'Annunzio got permission from JJP to use their game for a limited edition 3-color screen print poster and the reception was very positive (even from Jack himself). I ended up making a full color version (as seen here) for additional posters, t-shirts, pint glasses, banners and more. It was fun to put my own spin on the characters and see the art on all of our merchandise. Just thought it might be cool to share with fans and owners of the game here. Thanks!

#4821 1 year ago

Adding mods in moderation, and properly, will not cause issues with your game. Same with Spike games. We’ve never had a mod we sold cause a problem with a game.

Quoted from branlon8:

I am really diggin’ that Mezel Mods Pop Bumper Building - seen in Post 4814. Can somebody describe how it lights up and when ? I understand it lights up with the pops, but does it also light up at other times ? Does the color change along with the rest of the lighting? It has lights inside and on top?
I have never been much in to mods, especially ones which need electricity. I have read that some of the problems with Stern Spike have been associated with people adding mods. Is that a danger with JJP ? or do these games have amps to spare for such mods?

1 week later
#4887 1 year ago
Quoted from Owlnonymous:

I just got a Dialed In Standard. Out of the box I had to adjust the trap door like above, as it was staying open. I also had to fix the left ramp switch before the divertor, as it was not registering every time. Also adjusted the QED guy switch to make it more sensitive. And rotated the BOB sign to make it more visable to the player. Now the game is playing amazing.
I'm not normally a mod type of guy, but think the game could use a few LED/RGB mods to make it look like the LE. I'm considering the pop-bumper tower, to light up that back left corner. I def' want to do the LERmods backbox light. What mods are essential?
While you can adjust a few coils, there are still some changes I would like to make. Like being able to lower the kickback coil below 6. Amy hoot, like my TNA, I will be streaming this game often. I hope to capture both the phone and quantum theater for the stream. Come hang and get C R A Z Y!

Congrats on getting the game, it’s a lot of fun.

Does the acrylic in the back light up like it does on the LE? In the pic, it looks like it doesn’t. If not, a color changing strip would be ideal.

#4914 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

How do yall catch the ball when it shoots out of the phone? I try to catch it on the right flipper but it usually bounces off. I have the hardest time with ball control on this game sometimes.

Change the setting on the kick out if it’s coming out too fast.

3 weeks later
#5083 1 year ago
Quoted from bondavi:

I realized Jen at JJP said "the last of the DILE's" - as in LE's. Does that mean only the Standard will be in production and any one off special editions?

I believe the LE run was capped at 2500. If all they make are standards going forward, my guess would be you won’t see the LE prices fall too much given how good the game is. The LE is well worth the added cost, IMO.

#5090 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Is there a way to set the theater to throw the ball up every time? When it lets it go it always drains SDTM.

Not really. Best bet is to elevate the back right leg a few turns so ball falls to the left flipper. You can play with the game settings, but it’s pretty futile.

#5105 1 year ago
Quoted from BigStiffy:

I'm thinking about adding an external sub to my Dialed In. For those that have done this, does it improve the audio at all? Is there a way to hook up a subwoofer cable directly to the computer, or do I need to plan on using one of those low pass filters connected to the cabinet speaker?

Significant improvement, as is the case with most pins when adding external sub. you can connect directly to the terminals on the cabinet woofer.

#5144 1 year ago
Quoted from Toucanf16:

Ok, I haven’t read this thread, so please don’t stone me if the answer is hidden in here someplace.
I just picked up a DILE and can’t get the backbox open. I’m positive it’s the right key. The key fits and turns a little, but I don’t want to turn it too hard being afraid to break something. Any tricks to get this thing open?

Common issue. Is this a nib game? Manufacture date? You'll have to loosen the security screws, that will give some slack to undo the lock. You'll then need to either shim or bend the tab on the lock after you have it open.

#5173 1 year ago
Quoted from shiffdog:

I agree with this - if you fail to bring a disaster mode into Under Attack multiball, it feels like you're kind of stuck, and you just have to get UA multiball out of the way before you can make any further progress. Stacking UA multiball with a Quick Multiball would be one thing to do but the Quick Multiballs are hard to reach, especially early in the game when the first UA multiball tends to occur.
In general, it seems to me the game would be enhanced if some of the features were a little more valuable relative to the modes and SIM cards; selfies, emojis, spiders, trains, drones, etc. are all really cool features but they are dwarfed in value by the modes and SIM cards. (And since I suck at hitting the SIM card shot, it would be nice to have other stuff to shoot for!)

Agree. Maybe there should be a way to light the Sim card with ua mb or to keep being able to postpone it,.or you can't postpone it at all. Postponing it once and then automatically lighting it on the next ball makes no sense to me.

2 weeks later
#5298 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

Did any buddy figure out any more fixes for this issue other than puting tape on the ramp flap to smooth out the transition.

Yes, you can bend the flap down using linesman pliers. That's what I did and it is perfect now.

3 weeks later
#5503 1 year ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I spent my afternoon today drinking beer (I like beer!) and adding LED strips to the back box. It turned out great! It was easy, but took awhile. Again, beer. The tranlite art on this game is awesome. Who would've thought? Check it out!
[quoted image]

There was a diy thread on this a while back, it's a nice modification. For those not inclined to diy, we offer the mod on our site and I think in our pinside shop. A bit labor intensive, but not too bad.

#5521 1 year ago
Quoted from Hogbog:

We will be releasing the code shortly after Expo, after it has been thoroughly tested there. Yes, it will be playable on our DI machines there.

I’ll have a DI in my booth at expo, if you want more testing, happy to load it on the game.

2 weeks later
#5778 1 year ago

Where and how did you connect the led strips? What kind of strips are you using? How did you make the strip? You’ve created a short somewhere so think about these questions to resolve the issue. Do you have access to an external 12v source to test the strip independent of the game?

Some connectors are fully powered, like the topper plug, as soon as you flip the power switch so despite the game not fully booting, a short would create an issue?

Quoted from FatPanda:

To add, during the install of the LED strip, I turned the machine on to test the lights, but turned it off before fully booting (a couple times), plus I removed the phone scoop a few days after the install of the lights to install the Mantis scoop protector. I know a bundle of wires runs under where the phone scoop is, but I've checked all the connections there and all seems fine.

#5780 1 year ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I used this LED strip
amazon.com link »
I soldered 18ga wiring from + to +, and - to - from the old strip to the new strip. I did a second length across the top, then soldered 2 separate lengths to run down the left side and the right side. On all of the new strips, I made sure to hot glue the soldered wires and us electrical tape around the solder points. On the original strip I just got glue the wiring at the solder points. I can peel it up and try to get some tap underneath so that way its not touching the metal case.
I disconnected the left and right strips so I can move the screen, but the second top strip is still connected.

Can you do a continuity test with a meter? My guess is upon soldering, the + and - are touching somewhere .

Set your meter to test for continuity, one probe on + the other on -. If you get a beep, that's your issue. Or just unplug the connector that powers the strip and test continuity off the pins...game off when doing this.

1 week later
#5935 1 year ago

If they do it like they've done the Hobbit, they will release a beta version via the jjp Google group for user testing. That hasn't happened yet.

#5968 1 year ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Can someone put on their Google Drive in a shared folder? Pretty pretty please?!

It’s not supposed to be shared widely I don’t think as it’s just beta code. If people do that, they may not be willing to provide it like they do. Email them and join the group.

I installed it just now, noticeable differences in sounds and animations.

#6083 1 year ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

While watching the video above I see that the bottom right corner shows "balls to go" with actual icons of the pinballs remaining. I don't remember seeing that on my machine. Is this a new option in the menu?
Nevermind. I found it

no, been there for a while. It's called "balls in reserve". It also lets you play extra balls at the end of your game in a multiplayer game.

1 week later
#6216 1 year ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

Hi all,
where does the ball go in your machine, when dropped from the theater magnet without qed fetching it?
I had the pinball levelled perfectly, but the ball went sdtm most of the time, if qed was not in the way. As it was a little bit closer to the left flipper finger, I tilted the whole machine a little bit to the left (0.1°). Now it is hitting the very tip of the left finger most of the time.
But in some posts and some videos I saw the ball dropping to the right flipper finger's tip. So what is your machine setup?
Does anybody know, how it should be? What was Pat's intention?

Get your game level and then raise the back right leg a few turns. Should fall to the left flipper every time.

1 month later
#6629 11 months ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

I apologize for how long this took to diagnose, but it's been a quite an exploration.
If you have V1.60 installed on your Dialed In!, please try this delta update for V1.61.  This should fix the screen performance issues.
Link:  https://we.tl/t-nqWcAB0bQC

==                               Version 1.61         December 21, 2018     ==
- NOTE: This is a "delta" upgrade, which must be installed over V1.60
=== Core Code
* Performance improvements

Quoted from check_switch_26:

I apologize for how long this took to diagnose, but it's been a quite an exploration.
If you have V1.60 installed on your Dialed In!, please try this delta update for V1.61.  This should fix the screen performance issues.
Link:  https://we.tl/t-nqWcAB0bQC

==                               Version 1.61         December 21, 2018     ==
- NOTE: This is a "delta" upgrade, which must be installed over V1.60
=== Core Code
* Performance improvements

Thx Ted. If I’m running 1.57, I first have to go to 1.60 via full install and then delta update to 1.61?

#6644 11 months ago

I played a few games on 1.61 last night, didn't notice any issues. In fact, didn't notice much between 1.57 and 1.61. I'll put more time on it later today.

#6683 11 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

It wasn't long at all. I think I flipped a few times before a took the ball by hand to qualify and start the mode.

Mine does the same thing, it’s very lagged.

#6758 11 months ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

I updated to 1.61 and am still getting video lag along with random weak coils. Coil weakness is Mainly on my flippers and the phone scoop kickout.
I just reverted back to 1.57 and issues have gone away.

Remove the Bluetooth dongle and video lag should go away.

2 weeks later
#6948 10 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

For me, Dialed In feels like a 90's B/W game with technology of today.

Exactly, tz on steroids. I sold my tz when I got DI, never looked back.

1 week later
#7072 10 months ago

July 2017 game, no phone issues and all my drones work too, knock on wood.

#7110 10 months ago
Quoted from Theguyoverthere:

I recently purchased the Bob Mezel Mod, only to find out that the stray power cord that was dangling at the back of my Dialed In does not seem to work with the mod. I'm going to buy the official power adapter (https://mezelmods.com/products/jersey-jack-pinball-power-kit?variant=2985809018909) but I'm just curious, what on earth is this spare extra power cable that's just chilling in the backbox? It plugged in perfectly to the sign, but didn't light them up at all. What's it for? Anyone else see an extra dangling power connector?

Just an unused connector. If it’s a 2 pin connector, there is one under the playfield in the wire harness, it can be buried in the stack.

1 week later
#7158 10 months ago

I set my game to carry over the Sim card for the sole reason that hitting the shot is more the result of a lucky bounce. It is almost impossible to hit direct off the flipper, which I believe is a design flaw. It should have been more open and at a better angle, similar to the camera shot in TZ.

Even with carry over, the best I've done is 4 letters and just under 3 mil.

4 weeks later
#7398 9 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

When DI first came out, it had no scoop protector in the sim hole and i could hit the shot accurately with no rejects. It made for a much better DI experience. Now that every DI in the world has scoop protectors, i cannot hit the shot for the life of me. I’m wondering if anyone has removed their protector and how their sim hole has held up since? If i ever got this game, i would be very tempted to remove it.

If you don’t want your clear to crack at the post, do not remove that sim hole protector.

2 weeks later
#7470 8 months ago
Quoted from SilverWings:

Took delivery of DILE s/n 0770 at TPF from Chris KingPinGames . So I thought I'd post some feedback on the delivery, the machine, and game play during the show.
I had the great pleasure of meeting Jack, Eric Meunier, Jean-Paul de Win, and Butch Peel all from the JJP Team. Chris from KingPin games was fantastic in every way. 100% recommended.
Chris and crew had the pin unboxed and set up by the time we arrived late Thursday afternoon. I looked it over very carefully, inside and out - and am happy to say it was all in absolutely perfect shape. Not a scratch! The playfield was absolutely pristine, clean and ready to play.
Eric Meunier showed me how to extract the supplied balls and I inspected them with a 60X pocket microscope - all looked just fine. The surface finish is exactly the same as on Ball Baron standard's or the ones you'd get from Marco. I did install 5 new balls each morning of the show, and inspected the outgoing sets for problems in surface finish. I never could find any problems, so this DI isn't chewing up balls.
There were only 3 very minor issues with the pin that showed up: on Saturday a player reported the balls weren't always registering correctly when entering the return trough. And wouldn't you know it - just to my right was Lloyd LTG who simply opened the coin door, and found a connector a bit loose on the trough assembly. Problem fixed, and thank you Lloyd! It was a real pleasure to get to meet you!
The second problem appeared to be a mis-adjusted side flipper. When at rest, it was hanging just about 1/16" open which was deflecting fast moving balls around the loop STDM. After getting the game home, I found a small screw lodged behind the flipper (probably some factory hardware that somehow got in there) and was keeping it from returning to the proper position. It was actually jammed down in the PF in a small opening and was hard to see. Removing that fixed the flipper return issue.
And finally, the mylar covering the Theater magnet is already showing significant distortion where it contacts the magnet. I think I'm just going to cut the mylar away as described in this thread, and be done with it. The mylar over the Drones magnet still looks fine, so I'll keep an eye on it.
I know your next question: how many games did it get at TPF? And unfortunately I didn't think of looking before having to head out on a business trip. So when I return I can report the actual game count, but for now I'm guessing around 500 plays.
The playfield still looks amazing. Literally not a scratch, and the dimples are quite shallow and can only be seen with lighting at a specific angle. Very satisfied with this PF.
Here's a shot of the KingPinGames area: Busy place and lots of fun![quoted image]

Congrats, it’s a great game!

#7501 8 months ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

I don’t think so. JJP tech was very vocal on here and in the newsgroup when the last two code updates dropped, but then when it was discovered there were bugs it’s been basically radio silence and no update for 3-4 months if not longer. I’m surprised it hasn’t been fixed/updated or at least addressed but maybe someone has some more info.

Quoted from Kevlar:

Is it safe to install the latest software yet? a few people were getting out of sync animations on the phone iirc.

Remove the Bluetooth dongle and see if that helps the animation syncing. It’s been a while, but I think it might have been determined it was the USB cable causing issues in some games. A higher quality cable was the solution. Rest if the code is fine.

1 month later
#7733 7 months ago

I’ve been running 1.61 since it was released, no issues.

#7741 7 months ago
Quoted from FTMYpinballfan:

Have a couple of questions. Never seen the middle and upper
drones props turn while playing game on my DILE, only the lower
one. Any way to test these? Do these activate only after reaching
certain level during the game?

yes, go into test devices.

#7758 6 months ago
Quoted from Xerico:

Is there any additional adjustment I can make to the Theater magnet so that it does not drop a ball straight down the middle during a mode?
When I am in the volcano mode, the shot to make is the theater shot. When you make the shot, the magnet grabs the ball and holds it. Then when it releases the ball, the ball will often go straight down the middle with no ball save or any way other than a violent nudge/slide to try and save the ball.
Is there a setting that allows me to add a ball save for the theater shot?

Yes, raise the right back leg a few turns.

2 weeks later
#7841 6 months ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

I've gotten the app to work twice. Every time since, nothing.
The thing that's frustrating is JJP used this feature to help hype this game up. And now it doesn't even work.

it's kind of meaningless, it worked for me using my android phone, but I never used it. All you can do is flip with it, not very fun and just gimmicky.

#7865 6 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

We had a few DI at the NW Pinball And Arcade Show this past weekend in a couple lineups with new games like Oktoberfest, POTC, Alice Cooper, MMRM, AFMRM. There were many times I'd walk by and there were lines for everything else but DI was sitting unplayed. It is a hard game to step up to and know what the heck is going on. I've had one for a couple weeks now and I am still pretty lost, other than knowing to hit the electric guy then the phone to start a mode.

It’s actually really simple to understand, like you said, hit qed guy, hit scoop, start mode. Finush mode and collect the SIM card. Spell dialed in with collected SIM cards and you get to wizard mode. In between all that, there are other crazy bobs modes and multiballs.

1 month later
#8175 5 months ago
Quoted from PjM:

I did not for the headphones. But I will. I rather have the camera working. I checked both ends for the camera. USB and back of the camera and both are good. Curious if it matters where the USB connection goes on the back box ! I did not switch anything but wondering if it came incorrect. There are 2 back to back and one just right of those. But everything else works. Great game but little frustrated. I am familiar with the game so took the kids on location to play. They loved it and liked the camera. Bought it new and camera never worked and now they are losing interest. Game might need to be returned!

i currently have an issue with my POTC camera, it's dead. A new one should arrive today. I will update once it arrives and I have it installed. JJP customer service will take care of you and get it going, you might also learn a little more about your game in the process. it's a complicated game, most JJP are, and things can go wrong sometimes, but just hang in there and be patient, you'll get it going and you won't be abandoned.

2 weeks later
#8407 4 months ago

The lag with the animation can be resolved by removing the Bluetooth dongle. However, I think you’ll get an error when booting that game can’t find the dongle.

1 month later
#8998 3 months ago
Quoted from mrofnoc:

Anyone sell a replacement light strip for the backbox that doesn't burst into flames without even blowing a fuse?[quoted image][quoted image]

One possible option


2 months later
#9541 21 days ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I know that people wont agree with me and hate PinStadium, but of all my JJP pins I only put them on DI as I thought that center area was a little dark also. The PinStadiums make that art pop and I like the UV flash going off when you hit the QED dude. DI doesn't have RGB GI lights, so having the brighter lights (that you can dim to your own liking) didn't take away from the light show. When the GI turns off, so do the pinstadium lights. I wouldn't want them on my other JJP titles though, so don't beat me up for that.
Even though I suggested that, look into the sling spots that lermods has for Wonka and WOZ. I might get a set of those for Wonka as that center area is a little dark at times and his set brightens and dims with the GI on that pin. If that looks promising, contact him to see if he can come up with a cover for on top of those spots that is DI theme appropriate.

Thanks . We can definitely do a set for DI, I just hadn’t considered it because I never felt it was dark. If anyone wants a set, let me know and I’ll make them for you. $30 shipped.

Here as a link to our product for woz...woz requires a split connection so it’s slightly more.


#9560 19 days ago

Some people were looking for lighting options for the lower area of the playfield so we made some spotlights and covers for the game, similar to what we’ve done for woz, ww, and mbR. These are 3D printed covers with 3 smd light strips inside and a decal on top. We made three versions of the decal for DI, prototypes shown. I don’t have a pic installed as I no longer have my game, but these mount over the screws holding the sling shot plastics on. You can see how we did it for woz and ww in the pics, they are meant to blend in.


A771B04B-D393-47C5-A152-E5C9E5410BD0 (resized).jpegE2D85548-0FAD-46AA-81C5-9F189E905965 (resized).jpegE50F81DD-F160-409F-AC46-7F047A115CA5 (resized).jpeg
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 24.00
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
$ 29.95
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
$ 21.00

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider lermods.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside