Just got my dialed in and the shooter rod hits the auto launcher what should I be adjusting to fix this?
(Topic ID: 177016)
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Jersey Jack, 2017
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Quoted from pb_lawww:You should try to adjust the shooter rod. Open the screws and set it to a good position in the cabinet and tighten the screws again. Be careful not to damage the decals.
If this is not enough, you can also bend the auto launcher a bit.
Bingo! That was it thanks!
I’ll have to do my hobbit like that also as it occasionally touches.
Quoted from pb_lawww:Yes. The new animations were announced.
I hope these are going to fix the missing animations on the phone when modes are started.
Quoted from snaroff:Remove the JJP installed protector and either go with no protection or consider installing a mantis style protector (https://mantispinball.com/product/dialed-in-phone-scoop-protector/).
I've fiddled with the original protector (that resulted in many rejects)...then I installed a Cliffy protector (less rejects). Then I removed the Cliffy and had no protector for awhile...no cheap rejects.
Yesterday I installed a mantis protector, which I believe offers a reasonable balance. For this particular hole, I prefer it over the JJP or Cliffy.
HTH,
snaroff
Without trolling through so many pages do you know if anyone has tried removing the left post?
Edit : ok just did it to see what would happen. Little/no difference. Ball seems to hit the vertical metal on the scoop regardless which is what is causing “rejects” on not exactly perfect shots.
Probably old news for everyone else here.
Quoted from koops:Without trolling through so many pages do you know if anyone has tried removing the left post?
Edit : ok just did it to see what would happen. Little/no difference. Ball seems to hit the vertical metal on the scoop regardless which is what is causing “rejects” on not exactly perfect shots.
Probably old news for everyone else here.
I spent some time tonight looking at why shots were bricking. It was consistently the scoop vertical reenforcements.
Lifted the pf and looked at the mech. Mine had been installed with a fair bit of slack space behind it for the cables etc. So my guess is that the mech is waaay forward in my machine.
As a test I unscrewed the entire mech and moved it around by hand. It didn’t hit anything else so I moved it as far back as I could go and put in a screw.
This instantly made the phone scoop so much better. I did have to realign the subway from the sim card. It had enough play to only require one end to be moved.
Measurements between old and new position is 7.5mm.
Old
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New
7996EF82-2CC0-437E-BA29-32C159C241C6 (resized).jpeg4AD24795-CA37-4D0A-8378-595D4A13C1EA (resized).jpeg
FCD43A84-C7EB-4740-8925-C47AE47C6A42 (resized).jpegF7C30969-5556-49A5-B9FE-CB1D05C0A974 (resized).jpegD953B45F-77BA-43E5-89F8-FF69561EB48B (resized).jpegD82C2FC3-AACF-4B05-B154-E8053B2A31C4 (resized).jpegBD9E5877-395F-4BED-90C1-D49E7A186D18 (resized).jpeg9E650993-DCD5-4048-A801-8F96D0634D42 (resized).jpeg8F9F0123-C766-4BB8-881C-2142CDAE3034 (resized).jpeg68DBC9F9-E013-404B-8149-9F3F27E7DEE4 (resized).jpeg4E5C7882-0A0E-4414-B249-A47F07536CEB (resized).jpeg344DF801-BF74-42E0-8FCA-176A6186A724 (resized).jpeg114A5E97-B9DE-4A73-A1AC-9B023E1BE86B (resized).jpeg0906EAF7-C78A-4BE3-B7E6-A15CE2D3551A (resized).jpeg07317086-5A1E-467A-850E-5A3E58238334 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from snaroff:Fascinating. Great work diagnosing this! I just checked my game and my scoop is installed further back than your original position...much closer to your new position.
JJP's overall build quality is very nice, but it's odd to see differences like this between games. I had my share of issues that needed tweaking (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialing-in-dialed-in-le-96).
My game was a very early build...#96. When was your example built?
snaroff
How you can tell when it was built?
Quoted from snaroff:Sticker on the butt of the game...directly under the rear of the backbox. Mine was built on 6/13/2017.
snaroff
Mines 7/20/2017.
Quoted from ralphs007:Is the final coming out this coming Monday,or are they waiting to see if there's any bugs in the beta download?
No defined date had been announced.
My guess would be they wait some length of time to see if they find, or get reports, of any show stopper bugs they didn’t already know about.
Added more pics of the underside of the pf as requested.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/121#post-4670653
You will notice the subway support is not fully screwed in, if you do as it pulls it too high so that it traps the ball. I also put the support diagonally so that it was gripping the subway gently and holding it in position better.
Can someone have a look at their factory standard one and see if the scoops tab is inside the subway or outside. It seems like a cleaner ball path if it’s on the outside though.
Quoted from DeathHimself:Ted posted if there were no serious issues or bugs found, a code release should be within a weeks time.
Still say the camera is funky in lottery mode, doesn't see motion no matter how much I move and or how bright the lighting is in the room. Other then that the code has been awesome.
Did you check the options in the menu for the camera?
Have a look you can change some settings and also preview what it is seeing in terms of movement and face detection.
Does anyone know “when” the high score pictures are taken? I thought it would have been when you press start after putting initials in but mine have always been when I’m looking down. Finally got gc and have the worst pic lol!
Question regarding the front door volume control.
I’ve noticed that you can toggle it’s usage in the menu between a couple of settings.
Is it expected behaviour that you can only turn it down and not up? Do I have a faulty switch?
It would be nice if it could be used to go up to the only the maximum of what was set via the coin door controls.
This would stop someone from making it super loud yet still allow usage up and down.
1 week later
Quoted from koops:Question regarding the front door volume control.
I’ve noticed that you can toggle it’s usage in the menu between a couple of settings.
Is it expected behaviour that you can only turn it down and not up? Do I have a faulty switch?
It would be nice if it could be used to go up to the only the maximum of what was set via the coin door controls.
This would stop someone from making it super loud yet still allow usage up and down.
So I figured out my external volume control issue. I logged a ticket but solved it myself before they responded.
It appears that it was wired incorrectly (and I can see why).
Let’s see if anyone else can figure it out 
Quoted from fnosm:ground and power wires swapped?
Two of the same (non ground) coloured wires.
Manual says violet/grey and violet/blue
6500932D-8180-4783-AF06-A92493E2A81B (resized).jpeg
Physicially they were both violet/grey and didn’t wire up to the correct socket on the molex connector (human error).
Got qtmb for the first time last night. Started normal mb while it was running and then started a bob mode. Flasher Madness! I loved it!
What was the comic like that was supposed to come with the LE’s? Is it the same as the slide show that you can get to in the attract screens?
Quoted from fnosm:https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/26#post-4048873
For those like me that don't want to go searching.
Thanks for sharing this Nokoro and originally Cooked71 . The rejects are driving me crazy and it is great to have this easy fix.
Haha that’s funny because I looked at that felt the other day and was wondering what it was for. I’d guessed it was something like slowing the ball down but wasn’t sure.
I have cooked71’s old machine!
2 weeks later
Quoted from f3honda4me:I know this is an old post but I wonder if they are using brushed motors instead of brushless. Brushed fail a lot quicker.
They should also run them slower. It would be a better effect too.
For that ramp I would have just used a little bit of Mylar if it’s getting hung up. Would blend in better.
I did put some Mylar on the skill shot cliffy as a ball kept getting hung up on it.
Quoted from Gogdog:Ok, I might try some mylar on the cliffy to keep it taped down.
Someone else tried some mylar on the ramp but it wouldn't "build up" since its not thick like electrical tape.
I only meant I used mylar on the skillshot cliffy. This was because even when it is flush there is a sharp point that a ball can get hung up on. As you found the phone cliffy has too much strength in it.
As for the thickness, fair enough. Hadn’t had a good enough look at the ramp at what else could help there.
2 months later
Has anyone tried modifying the sim card rail & entrance to make it better?
Just looking at it in comparison to other games it reminds me of the camera in tz. The camera seems to not be that difficult in comparison.
I don't have my tz anymore so I can't measure it to compare.
Is it a size issue or angle that makes this shot so hard?
Quoted from TOLLS:The ball seemed to bounce off the rear metal forward onto the cliffy, pushing the front of the Cliffy up making it raised to the pf.
I wonder if that is one of the root causes. Might see if I can slow mo record that.
1 month later
Quoted from CyberNinja24:Greetings. Really enjoying this pin.
Learning the rules and progressing, though I doubt I’ll spell Dialed In anytime soon to start wizard mode.
Anyway, two quick questions:
My pin came without the cliffy on the phone scoop. Previous owner said the shot was hard enough and took it off. However, I decided to put it on to protect a high wear area. Do shots bounce out more often with the cliffy? What are you guys doing there? I like the protection but don’t want shots bouncing out of there.
Also, ball gets caught up behind the QE man on the track pretty regularly. Anything I can do to ensure it bounces off of the back of him and stays in play?
Thanks guys!
What sort of rejects are you getting? soft ones or metal clanging?
Double check that your scoop is far enough back. pics here : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/121#post-4670653
I have a fairly early production le and my scoop was waaaay forward so that the metal edges were past the rubbers. This caused no end of rejects.
I moved it and no more rejects and im using a cliffy on that hole.
1 week later
Quoted from TOLLS:Can anyone share their experience with returning their drones to JJP and getting repairs / replacements. Are the replacements robust on installation or are they best kept turned off. I have sent mine back from Australia and don’t really want to have to pay postage again. Thanks.
I’m just waiting for the same issue to occur. In the meantime I sourced the AliExpress motors previously referenced in this thread. Cheap plus free shipping to Aus. As long as it’s just the motors and not the boards I’ll be fine.
I did also find the source of the drones on ali express so I can replace them if the motors don’t work.
Links : AU $2.21
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cZkWB9vI
AU $12.77 Cx-10 helis
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bLTa8Y00
2 weeks later
Quoted from dirtbag66:What exactly did you do to move the Crazy Bob sign?
I have mine in a similar position. I just unscrewed it and moved it.
The only problem is that it can possible catch airballs. As its a home machine I'm not concerned.
2 months later
Quoted from pb_lawww:How did you get those specs? Is there a menu item for this report?
utilities/ hardware info
Quoted from Coindropper:No need to replace the mobo, just swap cpu and thermal paste. Much easier than swapping the board and cheaper. The board is just an MSI H81M-P33.
You may potentially encounter an issue with a cpu swap that you need to work around.
If you think about the system requirements and steps you'd take if you were doing this for a normal pc you'll understand why.
I just happened to coincidentally have a compatible cpu sitting here.
And i don't think the cpu is the issue as the difference between the two listed is fairly small.
2D605208-1D36-4166-B357-309DD399E247 (resized).jpeg
hint : have you tried getting into the mobo bios on a jersey jack machine yet?
Quoted from Coindropper:As a test I installed the software on an old i3 dell laptop. Have to use the dongle from the backbox to make it work. And the bios work around isn’t a problem.
No worries you don’t need the password then.
I did this upgrade on my hobbit in an attempt to do real-time video encoding and streaming a couple of years ago. Wasn’t as straight forward as I thought it would be. There are some side effects (ie. you lose the custom jersey jack boot animation etc).
2 weeks later
Latest code, celeron cpu, early le build no lag.
People replacing CPU’s and it seemingly fixing the issues are just brute forcing the problem by throwing hardware at it.
I’d wager it’s just a bug, driver incompatibility or new feature if a software upgrade is causing the problem.
I wonder if those with lag have high numbers of games played = longer powered on time = dirty fans = Huge cpu throttling?
With my previous hobbit streaming/splunk hacking I found the the overall cpu utilization from normal game code is very low. I could easily understand why a celeron was chosen. During that same time I was playing around with getting my machine to software encode for streaming. In doing so I could cause it to lag.
For dialed in it has three screens so perhaps that can make the difference if all three are playing at once.
I haven’t installed a splunk forwarder into my dialed in yet. If i could be bothered it would quickly give an idea of how busy the system truely is.
Quoted from DeeGor:CPU usage is still 100% on a single core after removing the bluetooth adapter. Same after shutting down the bluetooth service.
Did you try ssh-ing in directly and double checking?
I found that when you use the console directly on the main display the load average will go up. Like it is waiting to get the device back.
When you switch the display back to the game and it goes back down again.
I'm not sure if you are seeing a false positive by using that local display.
I didnt get time to get ssh server installed last night.
Quoted from Allibaster:I also made a report. It's good to at least log it with JJP.
That's great.
If you experience the issue please log a ticket about it.
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:With the Blue Tooth Dongle removed, can the USB plug be used with a USB based LED Product?
Are there any limitations or warning concerns?
Remember there is also the spare USB port in the pc. Just run your own extension if needed.
Quoted from ClarkKent:I decided to wait with the update. I‘m still at 1.57 and I‘m happy with it, I do not see any drawbacks. I‘m absolutely not in a hurry.
I wonder if there is another club here at pinside with already 178 pages...
Pirates is 240.
Quoted from Rob_G:I see an opportunity for some mod maker to design a better sim card ball deflector. One that is curved like the phone scoop so it deflects the ball down, instead back towards the sim card entrance edge where it will bounce out a lot of the time.
Or, another possible solution is a neo magnet behind the deflector plate to reduce bounce back.
Rob
I've thinking about this very issue for quite a while and I had a couple of 3d printed designs that I still need to print and test. Its more like a wave shaped scoop to coerce the ball if it even gets remotely close. I planned to removed the top post and mounted it from the rear post.
Purists will just say play better, I am a below average player so I need all the help I can get. It was just such a distraction/frustration to the flow of the game not being able to ever get that shot deliberately. I'm not hurting anyone by doing it and its my machine so I can do what I want 
Quoted from LTG:There was talk early on to show you where to set your phone on the game to link up and play the game.
LTG : )
Quoted from Allibaster:It's too bad these aren't used for something more impactful to the game. Having controllable LEDs on the apron is a cool feature.
I always thought it would've been great if they were used to show progress for the four requirements to Quantum Theater Multiball.
I always figured it also helped light up peoples faces in a darker room during selfie mode but I can't recall if they are even on then!
Quoted from altan:Do all JJP pins after DI have the camera?
Pirates. Yes. Used for the high scores. Sometimes augments the photo with a pirate hat or eye patch.
Wonka. Yes. Wonkavision pixelated version of you flying across the screen. (Not sure if it’s used in the high school table aswell?)
1 week later
Quoted from altan:I’ve spent 99% of my time with the 1.71 code.
I’d say 90% of the time the JJP logo at power on appears on the quantum screen.
A guess, but I’m pretty confident this is a bug or just a feature JJP didn’t bother resolve. At boot the different displays power up and there is a race to see who powers up first and is detected by the graphic system. The logo is displayed on that one. JJP hasn’t implemented any code to say “wait for the DVI 1080p display before showing the image” (or it broke). Again, just a guess.
That's just a custom bios logo though. Have a look on recent pc's and see if they have a "show display on this device first" type option.
I'd doubt jjp can change the order via any post shipped code update. There maybe there are bios options to specify the primary display but I don't recall seeing anything specific (not that I was really looking for that option). Check the mobo manual and it should give you a clue if you are really interested.
edit: mobo manual is quite short for the bios options so don't bother.
1 week later
I have an issue in that my dialed in doesn't fully power up.
I get the main display and phone. Software fully loads.
No playfield lights. Only cabinet based light is near the coin door.
I do have red status lights on the I/O board however.
The cpu light is flashing (D201)
I've looked in the manual and can't seem to find how I am supposed to troubleshoot this nor what the flashing D201 light indicates.
My first stop was going to be testing all fuses on the I/O board.
Quoted from BrianBannon:Have you checked the mini USB connector at the USB1 connection on the CPU board? It connects to the BAG controller board at J101. If that mini USB connector has come loose I don't believe you will have any lights on the playfield. If you are looking straight at the CPU board, it is the USB connection on the far left bottom corner of the CPU board.
Reseated every usb and where it leads to.
Its not just lights but everything apart from 2 screens, game can't be played at all.\
Start button doesn't work, flippers dont work. Mr electric guy doesn't do its calibration move etc.
edit: I checked my pirates for similar flashing cpu light behaviour.
Pirates was faster, dialed in was slower.
All boards underneath were green.
Did a quick restore of a previous version of 1.59 i'd backed up (was on 1.6x something) and its working again.
So im guessing some sort of software detection of board issue? *shrugs* Time to close that jjp ticket.
Quoted from RoyF:I seem to be having trouble turning the key in my DI LE backbox. Any help would be appreciated.
I don't believe I've ever opened up the backbox on my DI LE, but I decided to do so tonight. I removed the key from the hanger on the inside of the coin door, inserted the key fully into the backbox lock, and tried to rotate the key. The key would turn slightly in the lock, but very very little. I tried turning the key clockwise (the correct direction I think) and when that didn't work I tried counterclockwise. I turned the key by hand, and exerted quite a bit of force. No luck. I checked the code on the key to make sure it matches the code on the lock, and it does. I tried the second backbox key, no difference.
I went over to my Hobbit machine and had no trouble opening that backbox. I did notice something when comparing the DI and Hobbit machines. With both backboxes locked, I can lift the backglass slightly on the Hobbit, but I can't lift the backglass on the DI at all.
Am I trying to unlock the DI backbox in the wrong way?
Which way should the key turn when unlocking, clockwise or counterclockwise?
Should one be able to slightly lift the DI backglass with the backbox in the locked position?
Maybe my backglass is somehow "jammed" in the backbox? How could this happen?
Any suggestions for how to (safely) open the DI backbox? I thought about grasping the key with a pair of pliers and then trying to turn the key, but I can't imagine it should be necessary to do that!
I had a very similar thing. I needed to put a bit more force into it to get it to move. Don't use pliers, you'd probably break the key off or break the glass, you should be able to do it by hand (just a little more force than you'd normally expect).
When I did it I could feel that it was partially opening but not all the way.
To answer your questions
Turn it clockwise.
You need to force it past the plastic that is grabbing it (see pics below).
open position (note the key. turn clock wise.)
open
After removing it I put some playfield wax on the plastic above the "ED" letters in "dialed" to give it some lubrication. The lock is easy to open now.
You can see the scratch in the plastic that the tight lock mech has put in when I had to force it open.
Quoted from Skyemont:I have used 2 diff usb sticks and redownloaded the file 3 times. Same result. Hard Drive not found.
Have you ever successfully done an upgrade using that USB stick? Delta or full upgrade?
Hard drive not found seems more like you are trying to boot from a USB that doesn’t have a boot partition (ie a delta upgrade). A delta should be booting from the installed ssd then putting the USB stick in then upgrading.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Mbecker:It would be one thing if it were just a challenging shot... however on my machine at least it’s almost always an accidental shot banked off something else. There are challenging shots and there are damn near impossible shots. That’s with the cliffy removed and top rubber gone... I can hit the train lock shot nearly every time from that flipper but the sim shot maybe 2% from that flipper. Seems like it should be Makeable.. just don’t get it.
I have the same issue. Purist’s are going to hate this but I’m going to see if I can make a modification to make it a little wider.
Quoted from Coindropper:I made some different instruction cards (this was a test print). Yay or nay?[quoted image]
I like how you carried the background image through
Quoted from Mbecker:Like cut the wood or adjust the posts on either side? I wouldn’t risk either personally, even though that shot has been pissing me off forever. Interested to see what u try though and how it turns out.
I'd never cut the wood, anything i'd make would be reversible.
Quoted from RipleYYY:just got a bug i've never seen before :
was playing ARMAGEDDON
mod ends, balls out, got to see the points made, get the city screen back, all was ready to continue, but than no new ball in the shooterlane, save ball insert was blinking nonstop at high speed, no ball search, even can't tilt the game, nothing...
someone else ?
What version are you on? This sounds very familiar and might have been a bug on much earlier code.
5 months later
Does anyone know where the quantum theater adjustment is?
The only one I've been able to find says the behaviour and not magnet delay or power.
I've looked through all the menu items and nothing seems to be obvious.
Quoted from LTG:Page B-3 in the manual. You can download from jerseyjackpinball.com - Support - Downloads - Dialed In. If you need it.
Tests - Devices - Theater Magnet
LTG : )
Thanks!
ahhh that why I could never find it! It seems to be the only “setting” not under settings.
Edit: any tips to setting/dialing in this number? At the moment I’m just fishing around for a number and I’m not sure if I should be going up or down.
The ball never seems to get flicked into the back area at all. I’ve done every number between -90 to -120. I can’t seem to find where I need to be.
Quoted from bigd1979:It sld work between -90/-120 ... is your mylar removed over the magnet core?
I doubt it. I'll investigate that.
Quoted from bigd1979:That's your issue then.. it gets chewed up and messes with the magnetic toss
Just checked it and I don't. I have another members dialed in in which they'd already done this. Their post was in this thread already
I'll play around with some more numbers.
1 week later
Quoted from delt31:So what is the best way to sink that SIM card shot? I still find banking off to work but it's not really skill more luck. Still find this shot really frustrating bc of that.
its my only thing I don't like.
I dont have enough skill to make it so its always random or a bounce off the left ticket target. I've toyed with a design to make the shot larger but I don't think it would make a substantial difference. If I get bored I might make another pass at it and see how it goes.
1 week later
Quoted from Lemank:I moved my di over 6 inches and now it is giving me this. It went into power saving mode and I lost all lights on the playfield. Do I need to hook my computer up to this?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Sorry for the sideways pics
Power saving mode?
If i was resolving this as a unix admin i'd check the sata cable into the drive, reboot, just control-d and fsck the partitions.
If i was resolving this as a pinball guy i'd probably reinstall the software using the full install.
If it keeps occurring you may have have a faulty ssd or a cable in which case they need to be replaced.
Quoted from Lemank:Thank you for your help. I am going to attack this like a pinball guy and reinstall the software using the full install tomorrow. Can I go directly to jjp website and get the dialed in delta upgrade 1.73 code or do I have to download the 1.60 full install first?
The delta upgrade would only update changes from 1.6 -> 1.73. This would not resolve issues with an existing non-working install (corrupt filesystem etc).
A full install would be if you'd replaced failed storage hardware (ie. the ssd ) so had nothing on it. This full install should re-image the disk back to a good known state. So you would need the 1.6 full. Install make sure that is working then delta 1.73 upgrade.
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/di/DialedIn-v01.60.iso
http://marketing.jerseyjackpinball.com/di/di_update-v01.73.zip
That being said, LTG may have encountered this problem before and may offer an entirely different solution.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Pinphila:Did anyone pay to print the manual? JJP is out and I would love to have a printed copy. I thought about staples?
Harry has printed some jjp manuals before.
There was another user, whose name escapes me, who got a bunch of jjp manuals printed for pinside members.
They posted in either the pirates, hobbit or this thread (can't remember).
2 months later
Quoted from STxPinball:I have been reading about different setup issues with mention of adjustments and tweaks that are occasionally needed to dial in the machine. (I know, old pun). I also read about clearcoat issues on some JJP and Stern machines. I noticed that the comments and issues are not recent. So I am wondering if new owners have had any issues that required fixing and wonder about the number of people that have had issues with the clearcoat peeling or chipping. Thanks in advance for any comments or replies.
Pooling: I don't believe this was ever an issue on dialed in (couldn't find any specific reference to it when I did a quick search). With JJP machines it seemed to be first on pirates.
Chipping : seems uncommon but there are a couple of posts about it. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club?tq=chipping&tu=
Quoted from dluth:Just taken my machine off site and noticed this wear (from the upper flipper to the SIM card). Anyone else got this? Time for some Mylar I guess...[quoted image]
What wear?
Not talking about the white "whoosh" art highlights are you?
Quoted from dluth:Yes! Part of the art then? Ok I guess makes sense as it represents the ball travelling that way at speed. It looked like wear to me the way the words (like watch) faded. Glad to hear it’s part of the look.
its the art. I went and looked at mine, it's not wear
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