(Topic ID: 177016)
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Dialed In
Jersey Jack, 2017
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Quoted from Nepi23:I had the same problem. I pushed it in with force and twisted and it finally stayed, although at first it looked like it will never stick.
Quoted from at_t_2d:I got mine about a month ago and it was the same way. Just push it in with a little twist to make sure it is lined up and it should snap in to place. Double check that your shaker is plugged in as well. I didn't notice that for a week or so. It is like whoever was doing final assembly on that corner of the cabinet dropped the ball.
Thanks guys! It worked. However, there was no LED-bulb in it when the game shipped. I´ve tried two different sizes of leds (one ordinary and one very short) but they are too long for the assembly to fit in the hole (before the button). Is it supposed to be a led light there at all and if so what kind do you have?
EDIT: Found the loose led-bulb in the machine, all is good!
Quoted from bigd1979:Trust me i dont like it but i dont think its out of the ordinary for the most part . Now if the art started getting damaged id be concerned but u cant see the scratches unless under ideal conditions. Seems to just be in the first layer of clear. Id also bet that its bc all the magnet action thst do has. The balls can stop on a dime and reverse direction when magnets are active which will cause scratchs .
Got my game just days ago. I have a playfield protector installed from the dealer and it covers the magnets. The balls are beaten up anyway and the PP has got tiny scratches all over. My guess is the inner sides of the scoop under the phone, they look really sharp and the ball hit the edges at high speed. Could also be the auto-launcher. I'm changing balls now to see if the stock ones are too soft.
Has anyone installed pinblades on their Dialed In? I'm considering Pingraffix blades or mirrorblades. Pictures are very appreciated!
Thanks a lot, looks great! Was the installation a smooth operation? Did you have to remove the playfield? How tight is the fit?
Quoted from lyonsden:One thing that bugged me about DI was the lack of light on for the backglass. The sides especially were completely unlit and had some nice art. I added in some cool white LED strips to the monitor brackets and another set below the stock ones on the computer case. I really like how it came out. In the photos, my camera overexposed the before (you can tell by the color of the sky), so the added LED strips really make the top pop. Also, I really like how the art on the sides of the monitor now is visible.
That looks sweet! Please do 
Regarding the provided felt cabinet protectors, are they better to use than say regular hard plastic ones? What would be the best protection in your opinion?
Quoted from crwjumper:I use these on all of my pins. Can't go wrong.
https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-leg-protector-hidden/
This might be a stupid question but on my DI there is already metal fittings on the cabinet looking just like those protectors in your link. Do I really need an extra layer of metal?
Quoted from OnTheSnap:Often times during a mode when I hit the theatre as need it, it constantly releases straight down the middle and drains.
Any fix for this? Under the test menu I increased and decreased the delay but it still happens.
Have you checked so your game is level? Using a spirit level is essentiell on this game.
1 week later
Quoted from kpg:I have a ceiling fan right above my DI, and 90% of the time it takes pictures of the fan instead of the person playing lol
Definitely needs some improvement
Must be one good looking ceiling fan
I'm considering adding these mirrorblades to my Dialed in: http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/jersey-jack-pinball/dialed-in/mirror-blades-for-jersey-jack-pinball-spiegelblech.html
Have anyone tried these blades? Is it hard to do the install? Guess I have to remove the playfield completely? Is that a hassle to do by yourself?
Quoted from Lermods:» YouTube video
Thanks a lot! Think I'm gonna add this to my game.
Quoted from Lermods:Not at all, have them on all three jjp games, plenty of clearance.
Maybe different thickness depending on type of mirrorblade?
1 week later
Quoted from bigd1979:I wld almost bet that all the playfields between the model's are made the same. I cant see them changing anything as it wld add cost and time to separate them.
I agree. Haven't seen any evidence that there's a difference. Did some research before buying my standard.
1 month later
Quoted from geoncic:I am soooo excited. I just bought my first pin, and it's a NIB Dialed In SE. It should be shipping out today! If there is one thing I should do to this machine before I start playing, what should it be? (Assuming I've read the manual and set up as recommended already)
I was planning on getting some cliffy protectors, but I do not see them on the cliffy website (passionforpinball). Are they not being made anymore?
Buy Ninja balls and use them instead of the stock ones which get rough early and scratch the playfield.
Quoted from PinMonk:If you do that, watch out for them becoming magnetized.
Is there a way to rectify this? I have purchased a lot of them not knowing there were problems like that but am waiting for a new DI so haven't encountered problems yet.
Quoted from PinMonk:Nope. Just don't use them in games with magnet action.
So what high quality balls should I buy? I thought Ninja balls were the best ones, but apparently I was wrong 
Quoted from Coz:So excited, I’m getting my nib Dialed In LE tomorrow!!! After a few delays due to snow, it’s finally time to pick it up!!
Thats cool, I'm also waiting for my new LE which should arrive in a couple of weeks (hopefully sooner).
Quoted from geoncic:I decided to go with ninjas. Mainly because I've seen a lot of feedback that says Dialed In is rough on balls and causes scratches and dings very quickly with carbon balls, which turns into a scratched playfield. The thing is that carbon balls get magnetized too, just slower. I've got some magnetism gauges and degaussing equipment at work, so I'm going to run some controlled experiments on the ninja balls and try to document a cheap procedure to demagnetize them. I know there has to be a way, but it might be difficult finding the orientation of the magnetic field.
I'll post if I figure out anything useful. I'd rather swap balls out every 100 games or so than scratch up the playfield in the same amount of time, if what ppl are saying is true.
I've got five sets of brand new Ninjas and two sets of carbon. Think I'm gonna start with the Ninjas until the game is broken in and eventually switch to carbon.
My experience is that its extremely important to have the correct pitch on DI in order for it to play correctly without balls flying off the ramps etc.
Quoted from mcovill125:Played this for the first time last night and the HYPE was real. It was easily the best JJP game I've played and I really just wanted to keep seeing more of it. I didn't hook my phone up to the table but being able to use the on screen QR code to post scores was cool and the selfies are a lot of fun. I can easily see why people love this game. JJP needs to just make games like this without a an expensive license.
Exactly, this is one FUN game. Was like a time travel back to the 90:s for me.
Quoted from PinMonk:Pinball life? Marco? One of those. We bought a bunch, so it's been a while since we've needed more. 2x a year is the most often we swap balls, and usually it's once a year if the ball starts to look visibly messed up or feels rough. For us, waxing as a religion is the biggest secret to PF health.
Which wax would you recommend?
1 month later
Quoted from joeraptor2003:Hi all
We just finished making our first set of Dialed In Mirror Blades..what do you think?
-joe
http://www.pingraffix.com
Looks awesome. Will probably be making an order soon.
Quoted from Nokoro:It came!
Unfortunaely, right at power up, there were two malfunction alerts -- the moving statue and the moving target, two key features of the game. They wouldn't operate in test mode. Feeling deflated, I checked all connections under the playfield, and everythign looked good. I finally decided to check the backbox and sure enough, two connectors were unplugged. Now, all is well.
What a blast to play! It is a fairly hard game too. Watching videos of some the best players, like Bowen's tutorial, before purchasing, can mislead you into thinking it is easy to get through modes. It's not. But it is addictive.
And, this happened on my 10th game. I don't know if that's a good score or not, but it felt like a pretty good one.
Thats a really good score for your 10:th game!
On my LE, sometimes the ball passes the trapdoor which opens (too late?) and then the ball rolls back down and gets caught above the trapdoor. I then have to wait for ball search which lowers the trapdoor. Is there a way to remedy this?
1 week later
On my LE the ball frequently get stuck next to the kick-back, resting on the edge of the opening for the kick-back. Any suggestions how to fix this?
Quoted from MightyGrave:Same Problem here.... Have you installed a protector?
Nope, no protector.
Got some good quality wax. How do I apply it to the playfield without messing things up? Haven't got any special tools like for waxing a car.
Quoted from Damien:Wipe down the pf with a microfiber to get rid of any dust/dirt. If really dirty, use something like Novus 1. Then apply wax (never liquid) on a clean microfiber and gently coat the pf in a circular motion.
Allow it to stand for a couple of minutes, and then wipe all wax off using a couple of clean microfibers.
Make sure you take a good look after to make sure all wax is off, especially in little corners and hard to reach places.
Have fun
Thanks! Will give it a go (famous last words)
Quoted from Riffbear:Got to play this game for the first time yesterday and its magnificent!
Smooth as butter. Didn't really know what I was doing but what a game!
Value for $ all over.
Well done!
Yea it's really good. Have had great games two days in a row and it's so much action going on it's crazy!
Quoted from Indusguys:I bought protectors from mezel mods and they look great.
What color did you go for? Did they improve the look of the game, if so how?
1 week later
Quoted from Chisox:My machine (2 days old) is making a hissing/static sound out of my speakers. It starts when the machine is booting up and is most noticeable when the machine is idling between games. It has made this noise since it was unboxed. I did a search of this thread and didn’t find anyone else having this issue. Any ideas for a quick fix before I call/e-mail JJP?
If JJP are slow you can also buy one yourself. I got this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01LYYRT7M/ref=pe_1909131_77695521_tnp_email_TE_Cardp_1
No more hissing!
Quoted from DeathHimself:Joe's DI Pinblades (new version) are going in my DILE, as soon as they arrive
Which ones is that?
Quoted from Marvin:More
JJP said new code is coming. they never said when. So thats up in the air. Do you actually have an LED out. there are 1 or 2 near the corners that can look out because they are blocked internally by the phone structure.
Correct. One of my leds is blocked by a wide cable making it dim.
I´m having some issues with the theatre magnet. It stopped tossing the ball correctly, just a weak little push upwards and the ball would fall down. When testing it in settings, it started working correctly but after a few more tests it now constantly signals error and "cooling down" when testing it - even after restarting the pin. Any ideas? I recently removed the magnet when removing the mylar - could I have re-installed it the wrong way?
Quoted from DeathHimself:More
go into your settings, magnet settings and increase the -80 to like -100 or -110 and try it in test mode.
That's what I did and it started working for a short while, then it stopped working saying "cooling down" whatever the setting.
Did some more testing on my theatre magnet today. In settings, it works a couple of times before returning to "cooling down" and not working anymore (regardless of value -80 to -120). Anyone else experience the same thing while testing in settings?
The magnet is flush with the playfield. My installation looks like attached photo, anything strange about it?
2018-06-13 17.13.59 (resized).jpg
Quoted from clg:I am having the exact same problem as you. It used to work fine but no more. One thing I have found is the balls I have which are not supposed to get magnetised are and really quickly too. I have paused diagnosing until I can get a set of good ones.
I´m a bit confused. Played tonight and the magnet worked fine during play. Didn´t have the time to play very long though so have to do further tests. Maybe the magnet can get over-heated as suggested above?
On to my next problem: When playing lately, I get balls locked (for multiball) without actually shooting them into the lock at Bobs/Station 3. When playing and the "Lock is lit" callout comes, it immediately goes to "Ball 1 locked" when the ball actually is on another place on the playfield. What can the reason for this be? Opto issue?
Quoted from clg:I swapped in some new balls. Everything is fine now, the test works normally and I don't keep getting the cooling message. I don't know why but I keep getting balls that are supposed to be magnetic resistant that are anything but. My last of balls (from ball barron) got magnetised in about 10 games. They were sticking to each other and very obviously magnetised. Standard marco balls are working just fine though.
It does seem to be ball related. I tried with new balls in test mode and it worked flawlessly. When going back to the old (low-magnetic) ones which I´ve used for maybe 60 games, it started acting strange again. So I put in the new ones and it seem to be working. So it might be that balls that are magnetized makes the magnet disfunction.
Quoted from LTG:Tests - Switches - Matrixed. Trigger with your finger and see if it reports on the screen. Do it to a few switches so you know what to look for.
LTG : )
Can´t find any errors with the switches/optos. Will try to capture it on video so you guys can see what I mean (and if I´m correct in thinking something´s not right).
Quoted from crwjumper:Never mind. Found the topper wiring. Thanks!
Pics or it didn´t happen 
Okay so I believe I have a problem with the Bob Enter Trapdoor switch. I can´t seem to be able to find it to trigger it manually during switch testing (even though I can see it on the playfield map). Where do I find it and is it an opto or what? My problem when playing is that this switch is triggered without reaching it with a ball, which is a bit of cheating 
Quoted from LTG:Opto. Below the playfield. On the clear plastic subway the ball goes thru after going into the trap door hole.
LTG : )
Thanks! Problem solved and I really appreciate all the help from you, Vireland and others in this thread.
1 week later
I am still experiencing some problems with the Bob trap door opto. I get the "ball locked" callout even if I haven't shot the ball into the trap door. (It seems as if it maybe is getting triggered by light, like the QED-guy flashing, but I'm not sure.) Is there a way to make it less sensitive?
Quoted from grabul:Hi, I had the same problem with the sim card scoop entry opto, sometimes if a sim card was lit I get the shot made but no ball goes in there. Instead I hit the QED guy with the ball, especially a fast ball hitting the target. Looking to the opto I/O board I see that there are mounted on the QED guy moving asselmbly. I reconnect (unplug and replug) the opto plug and the problem is now gone. But I am afraid of that it will appear soon, because of shaking the QED assembly by hiting the QED target causing the opto I/O board to be involved. I guess it was no good idea to mount Q3 and Q4 on the QED assembly?
Thanks, very interesting info. I have tried reseating the opto plug but no difference. Will investigate further.
Quoted from grabul:Hi, I had the same problem with the sim card scoop entry opto, sometimes if a sim card was lit I get the shot made but no ball goes in there. Instead I hit the QED guy with the ball, especially a fast ball hitting the target. Looking to the opto I/O board I see that there are mounted on the QED guy moving asselmbly. I reconnect (unplug and replug) the opto plug and the problem is now gone. But I am afraid of that it will appear soon, because of shaking the QED assembly by hiting the QED target causing the opto I/O board to be involved. I guess it was no good idea to mount Q3 and Q4 on the QED assembly?
Pinside is fantastic. Thanks to your info, I checked the boards where the opto plugs goes and the screws on the boards were all loose - probably making them move a lot when I hit the QED-guy. After tightening all the screws I have had zero problems with the Bob trap door opto. Thanks a million man!
So have you guys made the game easier? Moved the outlane posts etc? I'm considering it because the game is so hard IMO. Also going to have a big party tomorrow and think the guests would appreciate the game more if it's not hard as nails.
Had my party yesterday and my DILE was very popular. I had set the outlane posts to easiest setting but it strangely didn't seem to help people get better scores. Maybe too much beer
Quoted from gliebig:Just reached CQC for the first time and collected 5 sim cards. That game was a rush.
Only gotten to CQC once and agree - it's really cool!
Quoted from branlon8:I am really diggin’ that Mezel Mods Pop Bumper Building - seen in Post 4814. Can somebody describe how it lights up and when ? I understand it lights up with the pops, but does it also light up at other times ? Does the color change along with the rest of the lighting? It has lights inside and on top?
I have never been much in to mods, especially ones which need electricity. I have read that some of the problems with Stern Spike have been associated with people adding mods. Is that a danger with JJP ? or do these games have amps to spare for such mods?
Here you can see it on my LE in attract mode. It lights up when the pop bumpers are lit. A must have for the Standard edition. On my LE it is a little distracting that it's out of sync/color with the light show.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9h7csfmneq3i210/2018-05-31%2022.10.58.mp4?dl=0
2 weeks later
I've had problems with the black drone. The lights would work but the propellers wouldn't spin. If I pressed it down they would start spinning. This drone was glued in place by JJP so maybe something went wrong during install. I removed it and glued it back down and it is currently working.
Added over 6 years ago:EDIT: Make that NOT working. Gonna contact JJP.
Got the Cliffy protectors for the inlanes. Anyone else have problem with the ball getting stuck? I've tried bending down the metal spring which helped but still have balls getting stuck from time to time.
Quoted from Marvin:why do you have them on the outlanes, there's no ball drop there
Typo, meant the inlanes.
Quoted from fnosm:To solve this I have started filing down the top side of the protector's leading edges. This makes the transition between the playfield and the protector insufficient to stop a slowly rolling ball.
Ok, thanks for the tip. Guess I'll try to remove them and do that as well.
Quoted from ralphs007:Mine came last week,but I haven't put them on yet.Did feathering the front edge of the protector work for you?
Haven't tried that yet. A bit hesitant removing them. Tried putting tape over the edge but didn't help.
Quoted from imagamejunky:On mine there were a few times the ball was stuck on the left lane. It wasn’t the Cliffy causing the issue though. The rubber ring around the slingshot was fat enough to hold the ball. I stretched the ring and this seemed to have made it slightly smaller which no longer held the ball. Thought you might want to try this.
Junky
OK, I´ll have a look at that thanks.
Anyone tried the plastic protectors from Mezelmods?
https://mezelmods.com/collections/dialed-in-pinball-mods/products/dialed-in-pinball-plastic-protectors?variant=46378502472
Are they worth getting? What´s the difference aesthetically?
Quoted from knobstone:Finally received my topper from Mezel Mods.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Video would be very appreciated! How do you like it?
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:Having just received my first LE, I have the dumbest question.....What is the recommended cleaning solution for JJP invisiglass...??
In the shipment should be included instructions on how to clean. I believe that they recommend Isopropyl alcohol. I use a cloth that I wet in hot water and spray it with Isopropyl. Then another dry cloth to finish it off.
1 week later
Is Dialed In considered a hard, easy or "normal" game difficulty-wize? I find it to be hard, almost never getting more than two or three SIM-cards. But I´ve heard someone call it easy too.
Another question: I´ve tried different flipper power-settings but can´t really say that it makes any difference. I currently play with max power on the flippers because it´s more fun when the ball travels faster. Anyone got a take on flipper power settings and difficulty?
Quoted from Allibaster:My game came with traditional side art uninstalled, so I recently put them in. Dialed In's cabinet is super tight compared to Stern's and B/W's. You have to be very very careful lifting and closing the playfield. Kind of annoying, but I do like the look. I can only imagine these would be more challenging.
I also have some decals from PinGraffix on my White Water that don't stick very well.
I´ve got the Bladeskinz (mirror and decals) and they look great but the fit is extremely tight (!), almost to the point of not working. I have scratched off som small parts of the decals so now I really avoid lifting the playfield (and if I do, I move it very very very slowly). Someone suggested putting some kind of sheet between the playfield and the blades when moving the playfield but it is so tight that nothing will fit there (even if I try to move the playfield to the sides).
Maybe the Bladeskinz are the thickest ones since they are chrome metal?
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:It’s really hard to avoid damaging metal blades. You can add felt to the playfield sides so it will slide easier, or buy the playfield protector that you insert before you lift the playfield
I actually purchased felt before they arrived as I had heard the fit would be tight. But believe me, there is nothing that's going to fit in between the playfield and the blades. The playfield is hardly movable at all...
Quoted from geoncic:I would really like to see something to happen with the regular multiball. I almost dread going into multiball without having a mode started, because the points don't seem to matter, and I feel like I end up wasting my kickback or big bang. If you could start a mode while already in a regular multiball that would be great. Or make the shots worth more and scale (somewhat) with sim cards.
I'm really looking forward to being able to collect sims during chaos
Thoughts?
Also would love to see a restart multiball feature.
Quoted from Nepi23:What kind of luck have people outside of the US had with JJP support?
I first send an email to them on 15 March about my lockdown bar, which seems handpainted to me, asking for replacement. I also asked for Cliffy protectors, which they apparently were shipping to customers at that time. I got a response asking for pictures the same day and a promise that they would ship out the cliffies. I replied the same day by sending the pics. After that I have asked for update on the ticket on 25 April, 13 May and 19 August without getting an answer.
I had a rather simple issue that I e-mailed them about for several months. I first got a very positive response that parts would be sent then heard nothing. After e-mailing about once a month since without result I then e-mailed Jack, who replied he was sorry but only copied to Frank after which again nothing happened.
I finally followed the advice in this thread and called Frank who answered promptly and the parts were sent the same day.
I love Dialed In, JJP and what Jack has done for pinball, but they sure seem to have serious problems handling their support via e-mail.
One thing that would be cool is if the new code includes more UFO-material. I love the UFO-like theme but feel they could have gone further on that.
Quoted from fnosm:I have them. I went with the Blue/Red kit. Blue on slingshots and red on lane guides. They add a little bit of color to the bottom of the playfield but they don't stand out much. If you are specifically looking at them you will see the difference they make, but if you aren't looking for it you probably won't notice they are there.
Installed them tonight and I like it. Especially the red actually gives kind of a glow-effect. Simple, yes, but a nice little add-on I think.
2018-08-24 17.55.50 (resized).jpg
Just came from a couple of millon+ games on my LE. This game is crazy intense *lol*! Gotta take a shower now
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:When we get down the road another 10 years, I think it's gonna be looked at as one of the all-time greats.
Agree. Some people dismiss it because they don't like the theme or think it seems silly, but when you've progressed some playing it, it's such a beast!
Quoted from Tranquilize:I finally set my Sim to stay lit after drains. Okay, I admit that the game gets 20% better with this small adjustment. My apologies to all the pus.. I mean people that I called pussies.
I am seriously considering this as well, as the game is so damn hard. Just too bad having to play the game any other way Pat intended too.
Maybe the code update will make sim memory on factory standard?
Are you supposed to be able to make a right orbit shot, or have I only been lucky the two times it has happened?
Quoted from Marvin:what is the failure? it its getting most of the way and rejected on a fast clean shot? If so then its riding up the wall slightly and backing into the opening for the ramp from the left orbit. The cutout is just a hair higher than half the ball height. It would work better if the ramp and cut out was 1/8 to 1/4" higher. the higher the better but you need clearance under the upper ramp too
Usually it goes to the ramp or if the shot is too hard it hits the edge to the orbit blocking the shot. Recently I've had a couple of succesful orbit-shots and it made me wonder if it's intended to do that.
Quoted from Marvin:wait you mean you've gone right orbit all the way though to the left orbit? no it should not do that ever, but on rare occasions does happen if the ball really gets up the guide and off the PF.
Yep that's what I meant. It was rather cool actually, made me feel like I was playing Star Trek.
1 week later
Anyone experience distorted sound on high notes in the music? Same with or without noise isolator and regardless of volume.
Waiting for a new drone since one broke down. Anyone exchanged their drones (mine is the bottom left) and can share tips on how to do it?
Quoted from Bellagio:It’s not very hard. The wires just run from the drone through a hole in the pf and plug in to a board underneath. The longest part is taking off the plastics to get to the wiring. Just be sure to have some small zip ties available to secure the new wiring.
Thanks! Hopefully I wont screw up
Quoted from TOLLS:While the discussion regarding update wishes is still going. I am sure I am not the only person who would love a pause function. It could be activated possibly by holding in the start button for more than 5 seconds for example. The next time the ball enters a VUK, subway or lock it could be held until the start is held again for 5 seconds. Using the start may be difficult for one legged users as a knee would have to be used but I am sure pretty quickly someone could come up with a better way. The phone app could display a huge red pause button on your phone for example.
Speaking of that, doesn't DI have the option to pause the game through opening the coin door? I had an airball land outside the playfield yesterday and lost the ball when putting back the glass. Couldn't find the setting in the setup. That would really be appreciated in a code update.
Quoted from Nokoro:Check the wires going to the speakers in the back box. I had one with a shaky connection that was causing the high sounds and some voices to be low or distorted.
Can´t see anything strange about the cables. Should I remove the metal casing and look behind it as well?
Here´s a video of my game at volume 16 (not very high): https://www.dropbox.com/s/yfdnj0sre4oj12k/2018-09-21%2019.00.53.mp4?dl=0
It´s the tearing sound towards the end that bugs me. Anyone else getting this (is it normal)?
Quoted from Nokoro:That sounds a little different than what I was experiencing. Have you gone into test mode and run diagnostics on the speakers? When I did that, I very quickly discovered that I was having an intermittent problem with the right speaker. I did have to open up the metal casing and play with the wires going to the speakers to figure out that the wire was at fault.
Doing some more testing, including switching cables between left and right, I´ve found that the left speaker seems to be the culprit. It appears that it is cracked somehow, making a certain tone level sound teared up. This is very strange as I´ve never played the game above volume 17 (got very sensitive neighbours). Is it hard/expensive to switch out the speaker myself? Should I contact JJP and claim it under warranty?
Quoted from Nokoro:Yes. Contact JJP. I’m not sure how hard it is to swap the speaker out. It is probably just a matter of working in a tight space more than anything, but I haven’t done it yet so I don’t know how tight it is.
Guessing it will take a considerable time getting a new speaker from JJP, does anyone know the specs for the backbox speakers?
1 week later
Quoted from Tranquilize:Yeah, roll over to right flipper to keep nailing it. Ten ramps I think tops it out. I've done it twice. 130000 or something. Worth it and fun.
That's cool and actually didn't know about it. Gonna try it out!
I feel DI plays a little different than Stern games when it comes to the flippers. They don't feel as snappy as Stern. Just a matter of getting used to though. The game plays great.
Quoted from FatPanda:Will also need to order new carbon balls. I have ninja chrome balls in it right now and they retain too much magnetism and get hung up on the theater magnet and trough.
Yep, I've stopped using ninja balls since my theatre magnet didn't work with them.
So does anyone have both DI and Pirates of the caribbean? Which one do you think is the better game?
Quoted from FatPanda:Has anyone experienced the Theater magnet just dropping the ball, instead of throwing it into the orbit ala The Shadow? Is it an connector thing? Opto thing? Is there a magnet test? TBH, I haven't really tried to troubleshoot it. Just started noticing it over the last couple days.
the only big difference was that I changed out the Ninja Chrome balls to Carbon Steel balls. (plus the cleaning/waxing/rerubbering the week prior).
Also ordered some LEDs, and wiring to help light up the rest of the translite. Will be doing that Saturday.
My theatre magnet doesn't work with ninja balls. It makes a sound as if its trying to pull the ball, then the ball just drops. I used to switch between sets of ninjas but they all started to get magnetized pretty soon. I'm now using low magnetic balls and haven't needed to change them at all.
1 week later
Quoted from crwjumper:A buddy of mine got a DI CE and had the playfield protector installed from the factory. I didn't think that I'd like it, but it plays really well compared to mine and my other buddy's DI. It also helps with the magnet issues - no need to mess with the mylar. I recommend the playfield protector on this one.
Be aware though that you get a little less clear playfield color- and sharpness-wise. Also, scratches are very much more apparent on the protector.
Quoted from TOLLS:If you play enough games the ball will find a way.
[quoted image]
In the left sling.
Don't know what you did with your game to get the ball there 
Quoted from Marvin:up to you, they are cheap toy drones. they will all break eventually.
Are there any replacement drones to buy that are more long term reliable?
Really like the new code, nicely done with tweaks here and there (including small graphic and sound changes). Gameplay is now a little less linear and more balanced. The game is still hard as nails though
Quoted from Damien:My game is going to a new home this week, as I have another game coming in, but after playing this new beta code, I'm feeling the regret a bit.
I only got a chance to play 2-3 games on it tonight, bit from what I saw (and I did see the entire game) they've trimmed a lot of fat.
The game just feels, looks, and sounds tighter. Definitely a game I'll be thinking about for a while, and might even pick another one up down the road.
Good job Ted and everyone at JJP!
Totally agree. The game is one tight package now with a whole lot of action going on!
Quoted from DeathHimself:Time Delay, 10A, 250V
Fuse 702 feeds the following, so check out those areas if it blows again quickly.
70V Coils (TAN) - Left, Right & Upper Magnets
70V Coils (PNK) - Bob Trap Door Latch Release, Bob Trap Door Open
Quoted from LTG:It's a small 20mm fuse too, not the 1 1//4 inch ones.
LTG : )
Thanks a lot!
Quoted from DeathHimself:Time Delay, 10A, 250V
Fuse 702 feeds the following, so check out those areas if it blows again quickly.
70V Coils (TAN) - Left, Right & Upper Magnets
70V Coils (PNK) - Bob Trap Door Latch Release, Bob Trap Door Open
So changed the fuse and still no power. Are there other fuses that may be blown? The ones in the vicinity of the photograph look fine.
Quoted from DeathHimself:Did the fuse blow again instantly? Get Digital Multi Meter and set it on continuity and check that fuse out of it's holder.
No the machine doesn´t start at all, nothing happens when switching on. Have checked the wall socket and it works. This might sound strange, but I believe the fuse might have looked like in the picture before this happened, I just didn´t change it as the game worked just fine. So my guess is that it is something else that´s wrong. What happened was that I started up the machine and after a couple of seconds it just shut down and won´t start anymore - zero power.
Quoted from clg:Check where to cord goes into the cabinet it can get loose.
Just checked and nope not the problem.
Quoted from clg:Working from memory here... Did you check the fuse in the front bottom right of the cabinet by where the game power swtich is? It unscrews from the top of the silver box
Yep just checked and looks fine. Starting to get nervous here...
Quoted from DeathHimself:Don't look, always use a DDM with continuity to be 100% certain.
I think I am gonna call my techie...
Quoted from Bigbossfan:jaylar Have you spoken with Frank at JJP? I had the same issue, no power going to the game. Turned out the power supply crapped out...and let me tell ya, it was a bitch swapping it out.
I´ve gone through all the fuses again and believe it´s the fuse in the front bottom right of the cabinet where the game power switch is. Gonna go buy a new one tomorrow. Just to be sure - is it a 5 A 250 V fuse and should it be slow or fast?
Quoted from DeathHimself:According to the manual if you are using a 5A 250v, it's a slow blow fuse. If you are using a 10A 125v, that also is a slow blow. It's the larger 1.25" size fuses
Thanks!
Anyone got the specs for the tweeters? I exchanged one of the speakers because I thought it was cracked, but seems to be the tweeter (doh!). The manual doesn´t say much about it.
Man I looove the new code. What an amazing game! Hats off to the great work of Pat, Ted and the JJP-team.
1 week later
Quoted from waynetrane:I made some nice target decal for my DI.
Wanna share with other DI lovers.
High quality vinyl with an laminated extra layer.
And i'll put 2 of each in the package for a backup.
28,- $ inclusive shipping via envelope from germany.
Interesting? Message me.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Got mine and pretty easy install with perfect fit. Looks good!
20181127_223319.jpg
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:Has anyone had speaker issues with this game? I'm getting some distortion, usually at volume levels higher than 22. It's most noticeable on the organ parts of songs.
It seems like it's coming from the left speaker. I put it in speaker test, everything is fine, except when I get to "high". Most noticeably, the left high is louder than the right. It also seems like there's some distortion there, but hard to tell in that test alone.
I swapped the speaker input wires and it's isolated to the those speakers.
One of my tweeters is cracked or broken in some way making high pitched sound distorted. Exchanged one of the speakers before realising it was the tweeter.
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from rs812:So, what’s the consensus: Stick with 1.57 or go to 1.60?
I am waiting as 1.57 works great.
Quoted from Bschafer:I got a new LE a few weeks ago and put on art blades and the play field is so close to cabinet that twice when lifting play field it has ripped them. They are junk now and have to remove them. Has this happened to anyone else? Glad I didn’t get mirror blades because no way they would fit.
Mine is extremely tight as well. Have to be VERY slow and careful when lifting the playfield. Ripped parts of my bladeskinz....
Quoted from Ilushka85:I have mirror blades and it is tight for sure. I installed felt pads on the side of playfield which does make it tighter but also means it won’t scratch mirror blades or rip art blades.
Mine is so tight there is no room for felt pads or even a sheet of paper.
1 week later
Quoted from Nokoro:It was certainly dangerous before, but I swear the magnet activity has substantially increased with 1.57.
That's my impression as well. Used to be easy to complete EMP but harder now.
Been struggling to progress in this game for a long time, not getting more than a couple of hundred k. Tried lowering the flipper power since I put it on high a long time ago. Played about ten games. Got between 1 and 2,5 million in half of the games. So could be worth trying if you struggle.
Quoted from Marvin:so you raised the power for no reason, now are lowering back toward stock. You think maybe Pat knew what he was doing? Adjustable coils just mean people can f up their games even more by not knowing why something is set the way it is. but glad its working better for you now.
I raised the power because I wanted to make the ramp shots easier and felt the flippers were a bit weak. This has been discussed earlier in this thread. You don't need to be condesceding when I was just trying to give the others who raised the power a tip.
Quoted from TOLLS:I bought these from Wayne, excellent quality and value. Really finish the game off if you are into detail like me.
I can second that. Very nice little addon!
Quoted from snaroff:When I received the game, my flippers were sluggish, but the flippers just needed to be dialed in (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialing-in-dialed-in-le-96). Once the flippers were properly adjusted, there was no need to raise the flipper power. Have you inspected the flipper shafts and EOS switches?
Thanks. What should I be looking for?
Quoted from AFM95:Sorry, I have to share this because it happened again tonight.
Is there a better shot than nailing "Big Bang" during the end of a mode, then having the ball immediately ricochet straight down the Sim Card hole?
Man, I love this game!
Probably the best shot!
Quoted from EricHadley:Seems like over and over again we hear about people emailing and calling and not getting a response. Me included, I've run into the same issue a couple times.
JJP should train their folks better, they should respond to each and every call and email in a timely fashion. It's really not very hard to have good customer service, just need to be responsive. Having to call and email multiple times not only annoys the customers, but also wastes JJP's time in having to sift through multiple repeat requests. Just respond the first time.
My impression is that they are too few working with customer support. Once you get hold of them, they assist you swiftly. Regarding service level my experience have been a mixed bag. Two low points were when they asked me to pay for a spare part that one of their employees had promised to send cost free (e-mail correspondence was forwarded to them with no effect) and when they asked me to pay for an order that their courier had failed to deliver (which is a matter between them and the courier, not me). Part from that, I´ve generally had good experiences when speaking to Frank on the phone and LTG does a really great job on this forum.
2 weeks later
I'm really starting to think it's the cliffies that are making the game too hard. A lot of rejects from phone scoop and roll outs on sim card hole that I don't think Pat had when designing the game.
I have sim memory on nowadays but it seems it's still hard as nails. Only got to about 5 sims in one game, before sim memory I had about 3-4 sims at best.
DI is so damn challenging and still so damn rewarding when you get a good game. My relationship to it is complicated 
1 week later
Quoted from Gogdog:Alright... I think you are correct. I'll try again and see if I can't make my transition a bit smoother and see if that helps.
I also joined the mantis club!
[quoted image]
I also put some mylar pieces in front of it. I can already tell a big difference with my scoop rejects....much more satisfying to aim for now!
I believe you had previously said the hardest part of the mantis install was getting the old cliffy off. But for me...removing the phone scoop mechanism was the hardest. It was just so awkward with the wire bundle behind it, even after removing the wire bundle from the wire holders and disconnecting a few wires. Just really tight. Actually...the hardest part was trying to get the phone scoop back in place, not removing it.
But, I got it in. And...look what I found in the scoop!
[quoted image]
Its the trapdoor flap that broke off from the original trapdoor. It had made its way around all the way to sit in the scoop!
That's gonna be worth a lot of money one day!
1 week later
Quoted from snaroff:Not crap...crwjumper speaks the truth.
I had 3 highly ranked players over yesterday. All of them were blown away by the Pinstadium difference on Munsters, IMDN, Beatles and Dialed In. Sure, DI might benefit the least when compared with recent Stern games, but it still benefits greatly. These are players that (normally) don't give a crap about "mods"...they went out of their way to ask me about them.
If you have the time a vid of your DI with PS on would be very appreciated.
2 weeks later
Quoted from TOLLS:I know I am going to kick the hornet nest here but here it goes.
My Cliffy kept warping after a good clean hit to the point it was raised and making the shot increadibly frustrating. The ball seemed to bounce off the rear metal forward onto the cliffy, pushing the front of the Cliffy up making it raised to the pf. I removed it several times and straightened it out but after a few good clean hits it was bent again.
I took the plung and removed the Cliffy, installing Mylar around the hole. The game is much more enjoyable to play and after a few hundred games, no sign of any damage at all.
I have taken the attitude that if I have a problem, I can put the Cliffy back on and not see the damage. Given I wouldn’t do that until I sell the game, who cares, I can’t see it during play and I enjoy the game way more.
Did you also remove the cliffy for the phone scoop? I am getting A LOT of rejects and roll-outs from the phone scoop and it drives me crazy.
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