(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club


By goren1818

2 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (2 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (2 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (1 year ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (1 year ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (1 year ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (1 year ago)

Post #1253 Velcro fix for right ramp hangup Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1258 Detailed pictures for adjusting a misbehaving trap door Posted by foobeer (1 year ago)

Post #1332 Getting access to computer in backbox on Dialed In Posted by hank527 (1 year ago)

Post #1347 Ball trap location. Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1377 Fix for USB at the coin door not working Posted by Pinhead1982 (1 year ago)

Post #1391 Fix for Tilt Bob not working all of a sudden Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1431 Adjustment point to grease for trap door to operate smoothly Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1451 Adjusting arm on Quantum Mechanic Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #2507 How to get in backbox to check audio connections Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #2661 DIY Lighting how-to for sides of Dialed In backglass Posted by lyonsden (1 year ago)


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#6349 8 months ago

New DI owner! Family loves it!

One thing I've noticed...is that the QED guy movement and especially the mechanic's arm are both squeaky. I've searched but "squeaky" didn't show up. I know I'm supposed to keep oil away from the machine but what else can I do to help alleviate some of the noise?

#6356 8 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Metal to metal joints, a tiny bit is okay.
LTG : )

Ok, so the squeaking/creaking is happening only when Betty is raising the diverter, because the wheel is rotating up and pushing against the circular plate above it. There is more metal against metal pressure when going up than down, hence...only squeaking when going up.

20181125_151629 (resized).jpg

It looks like there is originally maybe some grease on the rotating wheel? I do have oil/gun-oil that I could use but it seems maybe some kind of grease might be more appropriate here? I am definitely not a mechanic though.

#6359 8 months ago

I would need to get some superlube…...they make both an oil and grease. I would assume the grease then?

Also, my shooter rod also squeaks a bit. Should I use superlube or powdered graphite?

#6364 8 months ago

I'm about to place a Titan pinball order during their sale and was going to buy a replacement titan competition rubber set for DI. Any suggestions on what looks good colorwise? Right now its all white with red flipper rubbers.

#6370 8 months ago

Sanity check: So, if my right ramp shot has enough speed, sometimes its turning into a right orbit shot. I'm not positive on what happens, but perhaps the ball is getting slightly airborne and then hitting and going over the left orbit "wall" and then down the left orbit? Or do I need to adjust something like the metal flap in front of the right ramp or something?

#6390 8 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/26#post-4048873
For those like me that don't want to go searching.
Thanks for sharing this Nokoro and originally Cooked71 . The rejects are driving me crazy and it is great to have this easy fix.

Thank you! 128 pages is a lot to go through. Will definitely get this installed asap. I was also getting rejects sometimes on right ramp, I believe from the ball hitting the corner of the left loop opening (corner closest to flippers) and coming back down so this should solve both problems.

1 week later
#6420 8 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

If you have superlube, I would probably put the thinnest of coats on it. I'll have to do this as well since mine squeaks also.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! A little bit of cleaning, and the tiniest amount of superlube grease made the squeak completely disappear. It was really irritating before!

1 week later
#6516 8 months ago

Any other ideas? So I tried some Velcro tape on the ball trail for the right ramp, but on fast shots it bounces back quite often.

20181216_161345 (resized).jpg

In this pic, you can see a vertical "ball trail" on the left of the left orbit exit ->

20181216_161427 (resized).jpg

Which tells me that the ball is getting airborne from the ramp leading up to it. The metal flap in front of the front is ever so slightly raised a bit, which could be a problem though I don't know how to make flush since its riveted into the ramp...

#6527 8 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Try lowering the power on the left flipper slightly.

Yeah, unfortunately I already have done that (to make things like the theater shot easier). Hopefully there is some other thing I can try before I resign to just accept fast right ramp shots have a high possibility of backfiring.

#6528 8 months ago

Also...got the crazy bob thingverse holder installed today! Big thanks to a local friend for 3d printing it for me ->

20181216_152159 (resized).jpg

Only thing I needed to do was drill a hole on the bottom for the screw. I'll still need to go to Ace and pick up a slightly longer screw, though the original can hold it but its just half threaded into the nut.

I also needed to Dremel out the hole for the LED cables. I'll use double sided tape near the bottom to make sure it doesn't move from its position. If I ever see a ball catch at the top I'll just add a tiny bit of foam to prevent it from happening again.

20181216_152132 (resized).jpg

#6530 8 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Hmmm. Maybe a longer strip of Velcro tape. The trick is to slow it down enough so it doesn’t jump or bounce back.

Wouldn't that also negatively affect every other shot too like slower shots now not making it because it slows down too much, or the auto plunger now not making it, etc?

#6545 8 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Here's my analysis/solution...has been working great for nearly 1-year now
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-right-orbitramp-ball-rejects
snaroff

I like it! Two questions:

1. Any reason why I would need to buy the vinyl electrical tape vs just normal black electrical tape? Is the vinyl stickier, or thicker or ?

2. A bit hard to tell from your pics on your other thread...but do you have some tape actually on the metal flap or is it entirely just in front of the flap?

#6569 8 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I happen to have vinyl/blue around and it seemed to do the trick. Color doesn't matter, but whatever tape you use should be on the thicker side and slick/smooth (i.e. no texture).
There is no tape on the metal flap...just in front of the flap. The idea is to make a smoother transition so the ball doesn't "skip" on the thick flap. JJP seems to like thick flaps, but they cause problems like this. The "best" solution is to remove the thick flap and install a thin flap. Unfortunately, that would involve more surgery to the ramp and access to a riveting tool (which I don't stock).
Good luck, and let me know how it goes!
snaroff

yes, Yes, YES! Installed some electrical tape in layers, making a "tape ramp", and...so far very successful. I can throw the ball manually up the orbit with as much speed as I want and its not hitting the left orbit exit ramp/getting returned.

20181218_152928 (resized).jpg

I went ahead and took off the Velcro strip on the side wall. It was slowing down other shots up the orbit, and it was also shedding Velcro loops. After removal, I retested the orbit manually and I could still throw it with tons of speed no issue, so I think the real fix is the tape ramp. Thanks again! My right ramp is fixed. Now I just wish the left orbit didn't need as much speed as it does to fully complete the orbit and act like a true orbit. I could increase right flipper power but its already plenty for the left ramp and every other shot...

Next, ...I notice my cliffys are a bit curving upward ->

20181126_093951 (resized).jpg

20181126_093926 (resized).jpg

Anything to be concerned about? I would rather not put tape here since its much more visible. Though...the only way I could think to fix it, I would have to remove the cliffy, rebend, and reinstall. Which I can do...though it would take a while...

Also...for the SIM card shot...I believe I read months ago of someone adding washers underneath the sim card scoop because they thought it was too low. Is this still a thing? Is everyone adding washers?

Lastly...I find this lamp is odd.

2018-12-18_1949 (resized).png

Its the only lamp on the PF that is completely exposed. I know its frosted but its still a bit of an eyesore. Is it to light up faces for the camera? I might put a piece of electrical tape on the plastic above it so it blocks it from eye view but still illuminates the area around it. Anybody else think that its odd?

#6571 8 months ago
Quoted from koops:

For that ramp I would have just used a little bit of Mylar if it’s getting hung up. Would blend in better.
I did put some Mylar on the skill shot cliffy as a ball kept getting hung up on it.

Ok, I might try some mylar on the cliffy to keep it taped down.

Someone else tried some mylar on the ramp but it wouldn't "build up" since its not thick like electrical tape.

#6573 8 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

If you tape down the Cliffy with mylar, it will just bubble up and look like turds. I'd just leave it. It won't hurt anything. If you must fix it, take out the cliffy and gently bend it back straight.

Yeah....you are right...

20181218_213728 (resized).jpg

The mylar isn't strong enough, at least for this corner, though...it did help on the other corner and the sim card sim. I don't expect it to last long though. I played a few games though afterwards and I do think it helped so I think the cliffy being bent up does cause rejects that otherwise shouldnt' happen. I may just have to bite the bullet and uninstall/bend/reinstall. I probably should keep some mylar in front of the scoop though to prevent wear from the upkick.

#6578 8 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Glad it worked! My phone scoop cliffy was curving up as well (tried a couple). Since I had no damage to the scoop, I switched to a Mantis style protector (https://mantispinball.com/product/dialed-in-phone-scoop-protector/).
I have the LE, and the ramp has a lot of exposed lamps (though they aren't white). Now that you've pointed it out, it *is* odd/annoying"
snaroff

Ok, so a $20 fix isn't that bad. With the mantis, you just have mylar protecting the rest of the wood around the scoop?

#6658 7 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Lastly...I find this lamp is odd.
2018-12-18_1949 (resized).png
Its the only lamp on the PF that is completely exposed. I know its frosted but its still a bit of an eyesore. Is it to light up faces for the camera? I might put a piece of electrical tape on the plastic above it so it blocks it from eye view but still illuminates the area around it. Anybody else think that its odd?

Ok...I went ahead and disconnected this light. After relooking at it...it honestly serves no purpose and its actually quite a detraction from the game.

1. It lights up no PF area. There are metal sheets on both sides of it, and the area its "illuminating" is what I would call...backstage area that you really shouldn't see.

2. It shines right in your eyes

3. Its like the only nonrgb light on the PF besides the slings/outlanes. So when the PF is doing a nice light show its always on and a detraction.

It was a simple non-permanent disconnect.

#6665 7 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Did you leave the light in place, or is there a hole in the PF now?
Thanks for the update.
snaroff

The bulb is still in place....its a simple 2pin molex connecting power to the LED under PF. I simply disconnected it under the PF.

#6666 7 months ago

Oh....and since there is no flipper adjustment holes on DI....where is everyone setting their upper right flipper? Do you all have it so it is pretty much touching the metal wall behind it or at least, extremely close to touching it?

Is there an ideal position for that flipper that everyone has found?

#6690 7 months ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

Have you installed V1.61 software and checked out the brightness on that lamp? I put in a change to dim the Spider GI, except when used in lamp effects. (I am a bit fond of the "left loop enter" effect myself.)
Also, note that the ball guides have cutouts on the bottom, so that lamp does provide some light to the left loop and left ramp.
--Ted

I have not installed 1.61 (still running 1.57), due to the reported issues. My ball guides on both sides of the lamp are pretty much flush with the PF so there is extremely little light if the lamp is on. Unlike...the opposite side of the left orbit ball guide that does have cutouts so light does bleed through. I wasn't aware of a left loop enter effect that I noticed.....I assume it blinks or something on left loop enter?

#6700 7 months ago

Its a festivus miracle!

JJP sent replacement cliffies and I got them installed today. I didn't have double sided tape (strong stuff that like mezel mods uses...) so I went ahead and did overlap some mylar. I have noticed balls going in the scoops easier now. I'm not convinced that they won't curl up again (especially phone scoop), but if the phone scoop does, then I'll replace with mantis. After install I can see one corner not 100% flush already.

20181225_132315 (resized).jpg

20181225_132330 (resized).jpg

I can tell you though...that the cliffies are doing their job! I have an April 2018 build date so they were installed from factory and have about 8000 plays on it now. No damage to either scoop.

20181225_123735 (resized).jpg
20181225_115159 (resized).jpg

Anyway...I was having an issue with the phone scoop VUK sending the ball down at a weird angle, sometimes SDTM. I originally thought it was because of the bent cliffy, but after install, it was still doing it. After closer inspection (which I should have done awhile ago), I noticed the VUK was shooting the ball fairly high and it was hitting the right ramp wireframe. I show that the VUK was at default power 17.....changed it to 12 and now its perfect! Feeds to the right bottom flipper just fine and doesn't hit wireframe.

I also adjusted all 3 flippers to be more parallel with the inlane guides, and now my DI feels like a completely different pin! That with the new cliffies, ...shots are easier, scoops are easier to hit, VUK feeds much better, etc. Love it!

#6701 7 months ago

Oh yeah, when I went to install the sim shot cliffy, I noticed how hard it was to remove the left ramp because I had the mezelmod lighted station 1/subway sign. The 3 led light strip is taped down so you can't remove it without unscrewing the screws on the ramp. Which....is hard to do without removing the ramp because there are nuts on the underside of the ramp.

Easy solution....is to instead make the led strip attached via Velcro.

20181225_112252 (resized).jpg

#6706 7 months ago

By the way....MezelMods changed the station 1 design.

This is what it looks like on the site ->

2018-12-26_0928 (resized).png

Notice the nice raised/crisp station 1 letters.

And now....notice this pic ->

20181225_112252 (resized).jpg

Notice the station 1 letters are flat against the sign and actually look a bit worse in real life than this picture.

I immediately noticed this and emailed mezel….they said they changed the design for cost reasons. Which is fine. Doesn't excuse them from not changing the picture on their site though.

#6713 7 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

I was never a fan of the original mod but that new version is def worse. I would ask for my money back

They did offer to let me return and get a refund. But...after the time I spent installing it, and then to uninstall it and ship it back seems like just making the situation worse.

#6726 7 months ago

So...when my trapdoor opens, it hits the wireframe above it, then falls and catches on the latch so its open half way (enough for balls to go in, that's not an issue).

The problem is hitting the wireframe above it. JJP sent out a replacement because my metal flap snapped off, but I don't want the replacement to get ruined.

I see that there is a leaf switch, which I assume shuts off coil power as the trap door opens.

20181228_184600 (resized).jpg

Right now...the leaf switch seems to click open fairly soon after the trap door opens, but...is this the only adjustment for the trap door "opening" height? Or...maybe is there a coil power setting that I should use so the coil receives less power?

#6727 7 months ago

delete

#6730 7 months ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

I would assume the switch just notifies the game the door is open and doesn’t control the stop. The coil firing is a pretty sudden thing. Lowering the power would learn the damage but not control the throw. Does the coil and stop have any adjustment. Aka Lodoen it and move the coil and coil stop left? Or is the stop removable possibile to replace with a longer stop?
I would also ensure the coil bracket screws are not loosened.

Ok..so, correct me if I'm wrong. I believe a coil stop is when you press like..the flipper, and an arm swings over and pushes on a leaf blade and cuts power to the coil? For example...here is the flipper on DI ->

2018-12-28_2151 (resized).png

There is no such mechanism on the trapdoor coil. And...there is no adjustment to position of the coil. I.e., I can't move it up/down, vertically, horizontally, etc. Its screwed down in one location.

20181228_214846 (resized).jpg

I also looked through the menu. There is no option to change the coil power of the trapdoor coil (unless its buried somewhere else besides the settings -> coils menu).

#6732 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

No there isn't.

No there isn't.
LTG : )

Ok, you are JJP support, right? So....what am I supposed to do to make the trapdoor not hit the wireframe? It can't be designed to hit the wireframe..it would snap the metal flap over a short time...

#6734 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Assuming the metal above isn't bent down a little.
I would either bend the bracket forward a little in the direction of the arrow pointing up. Or the arrow pointing to the bottom of the bracket, I'd remove the coil, and drop an 8/32nds locknut in the bottom of the coil, limiting the amount of travel the plunger travels.
LTG : )[quoted image]

I can throw a locknut in there no problem. Would doing that have no repercussions on the coil or plunger over time?

#6736 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

No more than the plunger hitting the coil stop over time.
LTG : )

Ok...and...yeah, I made a mistake. The coil stop is this thing ->

coilbackstops2 (resized).jpg

Not...whatever thing I pointed to in the flipper assembly I posted above. I feel dumb about that.

Anyway...just want to make sure about the nut in the coil option. You said locknut, but I think you meant maybe a normal nut? A locknut with the plastic in the middle might eventually break down because of the pounding and get plastic bits in the coil sleeve. And...even with a normal nut, it might fall over in the coil sleeve which seems like could be a problem too.

I don't know...I might be over thinking it. I'm fairly new to this.

#6741 7 months ago

Thanks everyone. Ok, I'll try the nut in the coil.

And...yes, the tab on the latch mechanism is bent. I don't really see how adjusting it would help the initial throw of the door hitting the wireframe though. It seems you would need to adjust the tab if:

1. Door can't open because the latch is too high so it never clears it.
2. Door can't stay open because the latch is too low so never catches.

Basically, doesn't the adjustment tab control how much travel the latch has? (that's what I understood from a video I saw about it yesterday). If so....I don't think it can control how far the vault door travels vertically on initial launch...

#6743 7 months ago

Ok....haven't really been able to test the nut fix theory. Basically...the nut is just going to fall over, and then make it so the coil stop barely moves because its taking too much space in the coil sleeve.

20181229_133439 (resized).jpg

It falls over immediately even when trying to install the plunger back in the coil, and....its going to fall over during normal operation after a hit, or anytime you raise the PF....or basically, you can't ensure that its going to stay in position.

I guess I could solder the nut to the coil stop...but would rather not do that until its at least tested. Maybe...super glue it first?

I could try and get a longer coil stop...though not even sure how to remove the old one?

20181229_133156 (resized).jpg

Another option is to get a longer plunger though I don't have any laying around. I only see 2 options on pinballlife (slingshot/ballshooter plunger) that have the same shaped plastic piece. A 2" and a 2 1/8".

Any thoughts? Do most of your trapdoors not hit the wireframe when opening?

#6745 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Roll a piece of tape. Stick to nut, stick it in there. Press down. Should stay put long enough to reassemble everything.
LTG : )

Yeah....I can do that for a short term test but...that's not going to last long term. The nut will still move around eventually. I can do that to test though to see if the nut is even viable to fix the issue...

#6746 7 months ago

Ok....so initial results are promising, though still needs improvement.

I'm surprised at how little the plunger actually moves inside the coil...there isn't actually a lot to work with.

Basically....a locknut is way too thick. That's about...4 washers thick.

I went ahead and superglued (I can easily take it off later with a razor) a normal nut, which is 2 washers thick and tested it.

20181229_155523 (resized).jpg

The nut definitely limits vertical movement and the trapdoor will not hit the wireframe for sure. Also...its just thick enough where it moves vertically sufficiently to catch on the latch. Though...just barely. Its hard to see in this picture, but here is the door just catching on the latch ->

20181229_150929 (resized).jpg

It should look more like this ->

20181229_150942 (resized).jpg

But...it does work to open/close the door.

However...there is no vertical play. Which....you need the door to move upward when its resting on the latch so when the ball hits the trapdoor, the trapdoor moves up..."gives"...so the ball goes in. Technically if the ball has enough force it can go in the trapdoor when its resting on the latch, but...you'll get too many rejects.

So now I'm off to ACE to get a smaller nut, or a few washers that have small enough diameters to fit in the coil sleeve.

#6747 7 months ago

Ok...now I'm getting somewhere.

A single #8 flat washer. 3 #8 washers are the same thickness as a single 8-32 nut, and also just fit the interior diameter of the coil sleeve.

Now, the trapdoor doesn't hit the wireframe, and...still has enough vertical play for balls to go in easily.

20181229_171234 (resized).jpg

Its possible.....that I will have to add a second #8 washer once my replacement trap door comes in. The metal flap might touch the wireframe. And HOPEFULLY, the second washer still allows enough vertical play to allow balls to enter the trap. I'm imagining its going to be close though. There isn't a lot of wiggle room between too much vertical movement and not enough.

But right now...what a difference this makes! When the trapdoor opened before, it was loud because It was hitting the wireframe and caused the whole station 3 building to shake. Now its much more muted when it opens.

Oh, and the washer is only attached with superglue. When I removed the #8 nut, it was surprisingly stuck to the coil stop, but I was still able to get it off. I would imagine the superglue is going to fail in the future after getting pounded by the plunger. I'm thinking solder would hold up to the abuse no problem?

#6749 7 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Find out the depth needed with nuts/washers. Take an old flipper plunger and hacksaw of the desired size. The chunk will not flip in the coil as it is exact size. I've done this with great results on other pins.

That would be nice, though I don't have an old flipper plunger. I would have to be exact with the cut though....a washer is only a mm or 2? I wouldn't trust my hacksaw skills with that. I think I would go the solder route instead if I find the washer moves on me.

Or...next I'll try bending the bracket like LTG also suggested and see if that actually does anything.

#6750 7 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Find out the depth needed with nuts/washers. Take an old flipper plunger and hacksaw of the desired size. The chunk will not flip in the coil as it is exact size. I've done this with great results on other pins.

Oh wait...after rereading your post...you are suggesting basically making a washer out of an old flipper plunger. I was thinking you were saying...taking that flipper plunger, cutting it to exact size to be used as the new coil plunger.

Anyway....the chunk you are talking about would still be able to 'fall over' in a coil sleeve. The #8 washers are a very close fit to the coil sleeve. In fact..probably tighter than a flipper plunger. Like this ->

20181230_001846 (resized).jpg

However...after thinking about it...I believe this washer really is a good solution. When I put in a nut, it wasn't near as tight, so it could fall over and then when the plunger hit it, it wouldn't flip back over, also due to its hexagonal shape.

With the washer...its a tight fit so when it falls over, it stays in the center of the coil sleeve, and...I dont' think it can even fall completely on its side because the plunger will hit it. Plus...I just tested it by dropping the washer into this coil sleeve vertically...it always falls flat on its face.

Thus, anytime I move the PF vertically, yeah...the washer might turn...but as soon as I put the PF back down, the coil goes in a vertical position, the washer will then rest flat against the coil stop no problem.

#6761 7 months ago

With my outlane kickback, it seems to be fairly variable with how hard it gets hit back/trajectory. I can totally understand it being variable due to how fast the ball is going in the outlane, or where the kickback exactly hits the ball, etc.

Just making sure its not something I need to adjust though. Are most people's outlane kickback variable or does it go about the same trajectory every time?

1 week later
#6852 7 months ago

Does anybody have some tips on adjusting the switches on the loop wireframes? I adjusted several of them in the past because some shots were not registering when the ball was moving with decently high speed. What I did:

1. Made sure the screws were not overly tight. If overly tight, the switch just wouldn't work well.

2. I bent the leaf switch at this bend here ->

2019-01-07_1025 (resized).png

to make it more towards 90°.

However...my right ramp 'made' switch is giving me a harder time than the other ones. Now that I fixed the right ramp rejects with the electrical tape fix (see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/132#post-4742656), and waxed the PF, there can be some decent speed on a well placed right ramp shot.

I've tried bending more towards 90° to get to 100% switch acceptance, but I'm finding I hit the critical "too much" bending point where the switch leaf now pushes the ball off the wireframe because the leaf hits the switch too soon.

Basically....maybe there is something else I can try with these switches that I haven't tried yet? Or bending them somewhere else, etc?

#6863 7 months ago

OK...kept playing with the trapdoor. I got in the replacement trapdoor and....with the 1 washer, it was hitting the wireframe above it still. You do definitely want a fixed trapdoor with the metal flap....orbit shots are smoother. Without the flap, even on a decent left orbit shot sometimes it wouldn't make it all the way up the ramp in the back (because it would hit the rough trapdoor opening and lose speed).

I went ahead and added a second washer, which...did help with the metal flap hitting, though...it still was. I don't think with enough force that it will cause long term damage but....I'm not sure. However, I was noticing it was a bit harder to get the ball in the trapdoor. Some slow shots were getting rejected. Or...sometimes getting a ball stuck ->

20190107_175231 (resized).jpg

I went ahead and tried two things:

1. I wanted the trapdoor to stay open in a higher position. So, I took off and bent the latch just slightly which will cause the resting open position of the trapdoor to be higher. You can't go too much though or it can't catch.

2019-01-07_2110 (resized).png

It took several tries to get the right bend, but...I am happy to say that the trapdoor rests open higher and not even the slowest ball will get rejected when open.

2. Instead of trying to bend the coil bracket upward, I added washers to the bottom two bolts. #8 washers. Technically they both can't fit next to each other so one is just sandwiched in.

20190107_180635 (resized).jpg

I believe it does reduce the travel of the coil plunger, similar to adding another washer, though maybe not quite as much. Adding 1 washer width is the maximum you can do here before the coil hits the switch above it.

Anyway....so there are only two ways I can think of to make the trapdoor function better.

1. Simply reducing the length of the metal flap. I don't see a reason why it would need to be the length it is. Even half inch less would probably reduce the possibility of hitting the wireframe above it.

2. OK, so...one of the problems is that there is simply "slop" in the trapdoor. Basically, this arm post ->

2019-01-07_1914 (resized).png

When its inside the trapdoor "door", there is space above and below it. Like...in the open position, you can move the door up still. Maybe...1/2" of vertical movement? I'm not positive that the space is necessary to have the door open and close smoothly. If its not necessary...then if like a smooth plastic sleeve were fitted over it, then you could really gain a lot more ability to adjust the door.

Basically...when the door opens, the arm moves upward till it hits the coil stop. However...the trapdoor will still move 1/2" more than that, hit the wireframe, come down and then be in the open position. In the open position, the door is now resting on top of the arm post. If the door rests too low, then slow balls can get hung up.

However, if we can remove that 1/2" of movement...then when the door opens, ...less possibility of hitting the wireframe and the exact same thing happens when in the open position....it now rests higher up so balls can more easily enter.

I was thinking of using something like duct tape to wrap around the arm post but it probably isn't smooth enough to move along inside the trapdoor.

#6866 7 months ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

How about a nyliner? Pending on how small the gap is I could turn one out of delrin if nothing is commercially avalible. I would be afrade tape would deteierote quickly and also can make it sticky.

Sure....nyliner, Delrin....I'm not knowledgeable about those keywords but sounds good to me. But you are right....tape would just be a temporary solution because it would get sticky and not slide well. I might go ahead and try it anyway just to see if my theory is correct about adding something to the arm post.

#6871 7 months ago

Ok...this is actually really promising.

I went ahead and got access to the arm post ->

20190108_153309 (resized).jpg

And added the smoothest tape I had at the house, which is some flex duct tape.

20190108_155845 (resized).jpg

It didn't take much...just 4-5 small strips of tape.

20190108_154033 (resized).jpg

I added a bit of super lube, and ….I am impressed!

The first thing I was worried about was if it was going to rest flush with the PF, which it has no problems with doing. (the arm post must rest naturally lower than the trapdoor rests, even with the tape on it).

20190108_155826 (resized).jpg

And...honestly, it still is hard to tell if its actually hitting the wireframe or not. I mean, when the trapdoor opens the area around it (like the station 3) can still shake whether it hits or not just because of the force of the coil in that area. But....it seems like it should definitely help because there is much less vertical play when open. Like, before the tape, when trapdoor open, I could still push the trapdoor up, but now its much less.

Second...I don't think I needed to bend the latch to have the trapdoor rest open in a higher position. Like what I did before ->

2019-01-07_2110 (resized).png

Now that the tape is in...that takes care of that issue. So I bent it back, which....makes it easier for the latch to catch the trapdoor. (if you bend it, you risk over bending and not being able to catch).

So at the moment....doing all 3 things has, in my mind...solved the issue. (added 1 #8 washer inside the coil, added 2 washers sandwiched under the bracket to "raise" the bracket, adding tape to the arm post).

Ideally.....we would have someone create an arm post "sleeve", or ...even like a cap that we can fit over post (the cap probably wouldn't need to fit the entire length of the post as long as its even), that is smooth enough.

#6873 7 months ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

How about a nyliner? Pending on how small the gap is I could turn one out of delrin if nothing is commercially avalible. I would be afrade tape would deteierote quickly and also can make it sticky.

Oh...and I really doubt something would need to be specially made. I'm sure that there is a readily available, 20 cents by the foot piece of tubing or pipe at Lowes that everyone could go get that has the right interior/outer diameter. One tiny cut and a little bit of super glue and you would be in business.

That would...require taking out the arm and bringing it to Lowes and trying things out for a while. Hopefully someone that has to take the arm out for whatever reason would be willing to go the extra mile and do that bit of trial and error research...

#6886 7 months ago

So tonight I got my drones working. I had to replace a motor in each drone, and got to practice my soldering skills! (new skill for me). This DI is new to me, so this was the first time I really got to see how they work (code 1.57). Its actually a pretty cool gameplay flare when they are working, though definitely not necessary.

Of course...now that I replaced the bad motor in each drone and they are working again, its just a matter of time till the next motor goes out on each.

20190109_200907 (resized).jpg

Though....here is a slight idea. I've been adding these Comet LED control dimmers to some lights (like..I just added a trough light to DI (a comet 7 smd strip)). ->

https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/mtxbriteadj.htm

It says it works on 6.3V ac/dc or 12V. What about splicing in one of these to each drone? I could possibly lessen the power going to the drones so the motors are not spinning as fast, and thus...prolong the life of each drone? I'm not an electrician so I can't test how much power is going to the drones or anything...

MTXBRITEADJ-2T (resized).jpg
#6902 7 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

I plugged mine into the motherboard. The error went away

That did also work for me, though...the Bluetooth connection was much weaker so I couldn't connect my phone anymore since it was behind the monitor. Turns out it was just a faulty USB extension cable.

#6910 7 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Has anyone replaced the USB extension cable? I'm assuming a 3 meter USB2.0 extension would work without issue?

I did recently, though it was replaced under warranty from JJP. In the invoice, its called ->

USB Extension Cable, 2.0 A to A, M-F, 10ft, Shielded

So yeah, looks like you are right on the money with a 3 meter one.

#6911 7 months ago
Quoted from flx:

All my drones also died after a few months of usage, but I didn't notice it until recently when another Dialed In owner asked me, if my drones are broken too. Replacement drones from the european distributor are way too expensive, and getting a warranty exchange is a struggle too, so I simply ordered new motors from AliExpress in China. 12 replacement motors incl. shipping will cost just 11 USD. that's a fraction of the cost to ship the broken drones back to the distributor, and I don't have to argue with those guys anymore
There's a discussion about broken drones burried somewhere deep in a very long "general dialed in discussion" thread of a german pinball forum, where someone recommends to add resistors. The motors are connected in series, so if one motor fails, the other 3 motors will stop working as well. It's possible that the voltage supplied to the drones, or voltage spikes, cause damage to the motors. Or maybe those dirt cheap toy motors are just not built for durability and will die regardless of voltage anyway.
A solution could be to simply add a resistor in series to reduce the voltage, as pictured in the photo. When you have to open the drones to replace the motors, it's pretty simple to add an additional resistor. The only drawback is, that the LEDs of the drones will stop working (or barely visible), because the voltage is too low for operation. But that's not an issue for me, as I didn't even notice the existence of those small LEDs until I opened the drones
I'm not sure if that "Matrix brightness adjuster" will work, because if it's intended to dim LED lights, it's probably not a resistor, but a controller which adjusts the pulse width, as you cannot dim LEDs by simply lowering the voltage.
I have replaced all my motors and added resistors. Although time will tell if this is a permanent fix, or if they will break again.[quoted image]

Ok, I'll send a quick email to comet and confirm what you are saying. I guess adding a resistor would probably be about the same amount of work as splicing in their product anyway.

I know its lame of me...but...what kind of resistor did you use and how did you figure out that is where you needed to solder it in? Did you also source it from aliexpress or somewhere like digikey?

#6915 7 months ago

Well...fun. Fixed the drones yesterday and...1 is already failing. Makes sense though. Once one motor fails, the other motors on that drone were probably 90%+ close on failing too. I probably should have changed all 12 when I had the drones off, though...I only bought 4 motors from aliexpress. Will need to place another order and wait the 1-2 months to get them.

#6916 7 months ago
Quoted from flx:

All my drones also died after a few months of usage, but I didn't notice it until recently when another Dialed In owner asked me, if my drones are broken too. Replacement drones from the european distributor are way too expensive, and getting a warranty exchange is a struggle too, so I simply ordered new motors from AliExpress in China. 12 replacement motors incl. shipping will cost just 11 USD. that's a fraction of the cost to ship the broken drones back to the distributor, and I don't have to argue with those guys anymore
There's a discussion about broken drones burried somewhere deep in a very long "general dialed in discussion" thread of a german pinball forum, where someone recommends to add resistors. The motors are connected in series, so if one motor fails, the other 3 motors will stop working as well. It's possible that the voltage supplied to the drones, or voltage spikes, cause damage to the motors. Or maybe those dirt cheap toy motors are just not built for durability and will die regardless of voltage anyway.
A solution could be to simply add a resistor in series to reduce the voltage, as pictured in the photo. When you have to open the drones to replace the motors, it's pretty simple to add an additional resistor. The only drawback is, that the LEDs of the drones will stop working (or barely visible), because the voltage is too low for operation. But that's not an issue for me, as I didn't even notice the existence of those small LEDs until I opened the drones
I'm not sure if that "Matrix brightness adjuster" will work, because if it's intended to dim LED lights, it's probably not a resistor, but a controller which adjusts the pulse width, as you cannot dim LEDs by simply lowering the voltage.
I have replaced all my motors and added resistors. Although time will tell if this is a permanent fix, or if they will break again.[quoted image]

Thanks for this. OK, so....do these look fine for resistors? ->

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20PCS-Lot-2W-100ohm-5-Resistor-2W-100R-ohm-Carbon-film-resistor-5-2W-Color/32812941546.html

#6922 7 months ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

oh and if you need 4 buy 10 or more, 100 ohm is a really useful value. Last time i needed some i get them from mouser and just got 100, dirt cheap.

Thanks for all the input guys. I don't mind waiting for an aliexpress order because....I have to wait for the drone motors anyway. Actually, I think I ordered the drone motors from amazon but it was still from China so it still took forever. Basically, most stuff on aliexpress you can find on amazon but if its still shipping from china its the same waiting time/price.

#6939 7 months ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

Yep, that's me...
I saw others have resistors in the power supply wires that feed the drones. This made the motors much more durable, but the lower voltage turned off the LEDs. So I examined the drones itself. As the motors and LEDs are in two different circuits you can just add the resistor in the motor circuit without changing the voltage of the LED circuit. Only the motors will be affected. This worked perfectly for my drones.
Before I had motors dying all the time. One or two motors a week. After I added the resistors, no motor died for several months. So this is my suggestion for everybody having problems with the drone motors.
50 - 100 Ohm are working great. The 1/4w resistor can fit in the drone under the plastic as you showed in your picture. just cut off a little of the plastic where the screw sits and let this one screw out.
Regards,
Lars

Just to be clear....since I don't really care about the LEDs either way (too small too see while playing), does putting the resistor in the power supply line make the motors more durable than placing the resistor in the motor line in the drone?

I ask because....it still seems like it would be quite a bit easier to add the resistor to the power supply line than getting it situated correctly in the drone. I know placing it in the drone can be done no problem but.....power supply line still seems easier. If it also makes the drone motors last longer it would be no brainer for me to place in power supply line.

Also...I assume 50ohm makes the drone motors spin slower than the 100ohm? (I could be wrong..maybe that's reversed?).

I do like hearing the drone motors run so you have that audio cue that they turned on, plus the drones turning on in sequence when you do the "light drone" in lane is cool. So....turning down the speed enough to make the motors last but still enough to be heard would be optimal.

#6944 7 months ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

the higher the resistor value, the lower the rpm of the motors will be (as the resistor "takes" more voltage off the motors). The wire without the resistor has 0 ohm (almost), a too high ohm value will prevent the motors from spinning at all. At 50 Ohms you can hardly hear the motors. But try by yourself... Maybe 10 Ohm are enough to save the motors... I just tried only 50 and 100 Ohm, both working fine.
Placing the resistor in the power supply line looks easier. But I did not want to cut a wire, so for me the resistor inside of the drone is more convenient.
If you have the resistor in the supply line, all electrics of the drone get less power. So there might be higher collateral. One example is the LEDs not working any more, as the voltage drops too low to light them up. I do not know, if anything else might stop working, I do not expect it, as the drones are quite simple. Nevertheless, I like the LEDs to light up, too.
The resistor in the motor circuit has really only impact on the motors. So this is my solution and I would not recommend anything else...

Thanks. Ok, I was wrong with my assumption of the ohm ratings. Alright, the resistors are so cheap I'll just get a variety of different ohm ratings and see what I like best. I appreciate your feedback!

#6969 7 months ago

OK, so....I've been having an issue with my left flipper recently, where it will lose power for half a second while I'm holding or flipping it. Its not all the time, maybe...once every 30 seconds. I just don't have the troubleshooting expertise to know exactly where to look for the problem.

So, my right bottom flipper was doing it a bit a week or so ago, so I took a piece of construction paper and pinched it between the leafs of the flipper button switch and pulled it out a few times. Basically....seems to work like a very light sandpaper to clean the contacts there. Seemed to fixed it. Also tried that on the left flipper but still happening.

Next, a month ago I had taken the flippers apart, replaced the coil sleeves, cleaned everything, used the flipper gap tool to properly set the flipper bat, etc. Everything seemed fine.

I was next thinking it could be a coil stop leaf switch problem. Here is what its currently like ->

20190117_152023 (resized).jpg

So...not sure if its too early, too late...hard to tell. (again, inexperience). I was thinking that...maybe if the flipper is losing power for a second that its because its overheating or something but after I play for 10 minutes the flipper coil doesn't seem hot...certainly not hotter than the right flipper coil.

The main thing I'm worried about...is that the left flipper exclusively has these metal shavings on it. It could be a telltale sign of X type of problem (just not sure what could be causing it). I clean off the shavings, and it comes back fairly quickly.

Here is what it looks like on the left flipper ->

20190117_151728 (resized).jpg

In contrast to the right lower flipper ->

20190117_151849 (resized).jpg

and right upper flipper ->

20190117_151905 (resized).jpg

Is this a sign that the coil needs to be replaced? A full flipper rebuild? Something else?

#6976 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

No.

Yes. New plunger assembly, new coil sleeve, new coil stop, nylon bushing doesn't come with kits, but may as well do it too.
When you get the left one out, remove the pawl from the link and marvel at the wear.
LTG : )

Ok...so...you are thinking these metal shards are mainly coming from either the plunger itself or coil stop?

And...that wear itself is leading to the flipper losing power occasionally? I can see why excessive wear could be causing the metal shards...i.e., some grinding metal parts or whatever...but I don't see how that would make the flipper lose power...

#6978 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Coming from the top of the plunger. See wear spot circled in red.

Plunger is likely mushroomed or has a sharp edge and is dragging in the coil. Judging the wear on the top side of your plunger, that plastic link has enlarged or elongated holes causing slop in power to the flipper. And you'll find everything is dirty or has those metal flakes hampering the flipper action.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Ok...just to be clear....I'm not talking about losing power to the flippers as in...how hard it hits the ball. I'm talking about...I'm holding the flipper button down and the flipper releases momentarily and goes back down, then back up. Was that clear in my initial explanation?

I mean...I totally can understand where a bad plunger can create slop and rob "power" from the flipper but I'm talking about...its like the coil releases the plunger momentarily then grabs it again...all while I'm holding the flipper button.

#6980 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Coming from the top of the plunger. See wear spot circled in red.

Plunger is likely mushroomed or has a sharp edge and is dragging in the coil. Judging the wear on the top side of your plunger, that plastic link has enlarged or elongated holes causing slop in power to the flipper. And you'll find everything is dirty or has those metal flakes hampering the flipper action.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Also...that's not really a wear spot that you circled on that plunger. That's supposed to be there and doesn't make contact with anything anyway. All of the plungers have that.

And....I might take back what I said about the coil not getting hot. Just played again for...20 minutes and the coil seemed fairly hot on the left but not on the right flipper. I want to say that the longer I played the more times the left flipper would "reflip" like I was describing above.

Now...is a hot coil a sign of anything? LIke...coil needs to be replaced or...the EOS leaf switch needs to be closer together so it triggers sooner?

#6987 7 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

They have a little one when they are new.
His is worn. A lot. See the mushroomed edge on the left side of his spot ?
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Thank for the correction....you are right, the other ones are bit smaller.

OK, so...anyway to confirm the right flipper parts if I don't want to pay the high shipping from JJP? Like a normal order from PinballLIfe. The manual only shows like this ->

2019-01-18_1437 (resized).png

I'm assuming the flipper assemblies are the Williams/Bally style like these? ->

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-left-flipper-plunger-and-crank-assembly.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-flipper-coil-stop-a-10821.html

As for flipper bushing....not sure which one of these it would use? ->

https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=nylon%20flipper%20bushing

#6989 7 months ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

My 2 cents. The op stated he cleaned the eos contacts with sand paper. From what I see those are not high voltage. And sanding them actually ruined them. Same for flipper switches if they are not high voltage. Should be cleaned with paper and maybe alcohol. Like rubbing a business card through while lightly pinching them together. I would guess the op may have a non closing or registering eos and the coil is getting hot because of it. Then getting weaker through a game.

I didn't use sandpaper....I used construction paper because its just what I had here. I thought it would be as effective as a business card (and not abrasive). I just pinched the leafs together with my fingers and pull the piece of paper through it.

And.....I did some more testing today. The EOS is getting activated because I just look at the switch history in the menu. Every time the flipper is firing the EOS switch registers in the history....so...I don't think that's it.

#6991 7 months ago
Quoted from Fortytwo:

Oops. My bad. ya that should be fine for cleaning. I guess my brain got hung up on the sanded words. Sorry man.
My thoughts. Loose connection somewhere. If the eos is getting activated when flip that’s not the issue then. What about a failed solder joint on the coil. Try tugging on wires while testing.
I forget is it only the one flipper with issues or both? Might not even hurt justbto dissassemble everything. Clean it all real good and reassemble. Ohm our connections wile shaking wires etc.

You said "Ohm our connections wile shaking wires etc.". You mean use like a voltimeter attached to the soldered coil leads and shake the wires? I really need to get a voltimeter and learn how to use one...

1 week later
#7106 6 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

Thank you,I'll have to take a look. I think I know which post your talking about.It involves, bending the bracket,which controls how high the door opens,when activated.
Thanks again for the help.

If he is referring to my write-up....it was adding a washer inside the coil, adding washers to the bracket to get it raised up, plus adding tape to the arm post.

#7107 6 months ago

Also, this was a new ball trap for me today...

20190130_150410 (resized).jpg
#7113 6 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Thank for the correction....you are right, the other ones are bit smaller.
OK, so...anyway to confirm the right flipper parts if I don't want to pay the high shipping from JJP? Like a normal order from PinballLIfe. The manual only shows like this ->
[quoted image]
I'm assuming the flipper assemblies are the Williams/Bally style like these? ->
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-left-flipper-plunger-and-crank-assembly.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-flipper-coil-stop-a-10821.html
As for flipper bushing....not sure which one of these it would use? ->
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=nylon%20flipper%20bushing

Sorry to repost this, but didn't get an answer and was hoping to order. Basically....how can I ensure that I'm buying the right part?

I think I already made a mistake and was supposed to be these coil stops ->
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-coil-stop-a-12390.html

and I think this flipper bushing ->
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-nylon-flipper-bushing.html

Actually..was hoping to also change out some of the microswitches on the ramps....this is the only one that looks close?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-13.html

#7121 6 months ago
Quoted from DinoBob:

Ok, getting the game dialed-in (oof) and notice that on occasion my ball is getting stuck inside the open trap-door. The trap-door is raising and lowering as it should, it seems to be simply that the ball gets stuck in the mechanism and doesn't fully drop into the subway. It's easy to clear, but requires raising the playfield and kills any game I have going. Any tips or pointers are appreciated.

I had the same issue when adjusting my trap door. It sounds like your trap door is resting in too low of a position. Fast balls going up the left orbit will still go in the trapdoor, but a slower ball might hit the trap door and not have enough "oompf" to raise the trap door higher to allow the ball to enter. If the resting position is just a hair higher, then even slow balls have enough clearance to go in.

#7125 6 months ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

How wld one raise the resting position of the trap door

Read my two posts starting here ->

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/138#post-4773987

1 week later
#7216 6 months ago

Ok....my replacement cliffy is already raising up. I installed it 2 and a half months ago, 600 short plays. I'm going to buy a mantis right now.

20190210_143929 (resized).jpg
#7223 6 months ago

OK...got 9 drone motors switched out (old ones that were probably on the brink of death), and added a resistor to each drone.

I added the resistor to the power line (so...not in the drone itself) which was much easier.

I first added a 75Ω resistor, which was fairly quiet when I tested it with the glass off, though leds didn't work. Then I tried 50Ω which the LEDs kind of worked (sometimes fully flashed sometimes dimly), and a bit louder.

However...I wish I added 100+Ω resistors. Once the game was on and glass on, the drones were silent when operating. So I should have just put in the larger resistor since I wasn't going to hear them anyway.

Hopefully....these drone motors will last a long time now! If they fail again, I might just buy new drones since these aren't the most robust machines so constantly messing around with them stuff just keeps slightly twisting/breaking on them.

#7245 6 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Does anybody have some tips on adjusting the switches on the loop wireframes? I adjusted several of them in the past because some shots were not registering when the ball was moving with decently high speed. What I did:
1. Made sure the screws were not overly tight. If overly tight, the switch just wouldn't work well.
2. I bent the leaf switch at this bend here ->
[quoted image]
to make it more towards 90°.
However...my right ramp 'made' switch is giving me a harder time than the other ones. Now that I fixed the right ramp rejects with the electrical tape fix (see https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/132#post-4742656), and waxed the PF, there can be some decent speed on a well placed right ramp shot.
I've tried bending more towards 90° to get to 100% switch acceptance, but I'm finding I hit the critical "too much" bending point where the switch leaf now pushes the ball off the wireframe because the leaf hits the switch too soon.
Basically....maybe there is something else I can try with these switches that I haven't tried yet? Or bending them somewhere else, etc?

Ok....I went ahead and bought a replacement switch and installed it today. And....still the same problem (though maybe slightly better success %). If the ball has enough speed, the right ramp success switch doesn't register 100%.

I'm now thinking....that with enough speed, the ball comes up the metal ramp and goes slightly airborne and then doesn't hit the switch wire correctly. And if that's the case...I just don't know if there is a fix I could do. I think if the switch was further down the wireform that might work but I don't see an easy way to change its location.

20190214_171828 (resized).jpg

#7247 6 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I actually raised the switch on the left ramp when I was fixing some issues 1 year ago. Here is a link.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-le-left-ramp-shot-results-in-lost-ball#post-4076676
snaroff

Ok, so you are thinking if I raise the switch vertically it would improve switch hit success?

From your posts a year ago, it looks like your ball issue was mainly fixed by moving the wireframe.

My current theory is that its a problem with the fast moving balls going airborne off the ramp but of course I could be wrong.

If I am wrong...and it is just the ball is moving too fast for the switch to get compressed enough to register...if I move it up vertically it would hit more of the ball surface, though also increase the chance of pushing the ball out of the wireframe...

#7249 6 months ago
Quoted from Thunderbird:

Take a slomo video and you’ll see that the ball is hitting the first corner where it enters the wireform after leaving the ramp. That’s where it becomes slightly airborne. Had same issue and fixed mine where it’s smooth as silk and switch works fine too, no matter ball speed.
Steps:
1. Remove switches from wire form.
2. Remove wireform from PF
3. Use taped plier teeth, then bend betty switch mounting tab downward 5 degrees.
4. Remount wire form and screw switches back on.
5. Loosen station 1 top most mounting screw, by 2-3 full turns.
Trick is to make sure ball doesn’t snag on the corners of the top switch arm. Make sure switch arm is perfectly aligned, so ball glides along the flat surface of the switch arm and not catch on the corners. [quoted image]

Appreciate your post, though the switch I'm talking about is the right ramp switch, not the left ramp switch (betty switch).

Though...I like your idea of just bending the switching mounting tab a bit to get the switch arm higher vertically.

#7253 6 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Correct...the wireframe was my main problem (found using slo-mo video). Tweaking/raising the switch was still useful to avoid the switch hitting the lock nut.
If you can capture the ball jumping the switch with video, you can determine the root cause. In your case, my gut says the plastic ramp leading to the wireform needs to be adjusted.

Ok, here we go.

Here are two vids of a normal moving shot up the right orbit/ramp.

Side view:

Straight on:

And...a really fast moving ball.
Side view Fast moving ball:

Straight on Fast Moving ball:

Basically...yeah, the ball is getting airborne and actually bouncing a bit when it hits the ramp then going OVER the switch.

In the past...I was having an issue with a fast moving ball going into the left orbit lane....because it was hitting the metal flap in front of the ramp, getting airborne, and going into the left orbit. I fixed that by making a smooth transition with electrical tape. ->
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/132#post-4742656

Its possible that the ramp is still not smooth enough so its still getting airborne a bit from the ramp entry. Not sure of another solution.

This slight issue isn't a dealbreaker….90+% of right ramp shots are still registering correctly. Its just those balls that have some speed on them already, get hit by the flipper, go up the ramp perfectly so its nice and smooth....those are the problem ones. Which is unfortunate...because the smoothest/fastest/most satisfying shots up the ramp don't register 100%.

#7256 6 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Have you tried adding a piece of felt tape to the side entrance of the ramp? I did, and it slows down the ball just enough. Somewhere in this thread someone posted pictures of where to put it. It is probably a key post.
(Apologies if you already mentioned that you tried this. I get lost in these lengthy threads sometimes.)

Yeah, I know...this is a large thread. I did mention this in my post ->

In the past...I was having an issue with a fast moving ball going into the left orbit lane....because it was hitting the metal flap in front of the ramp, getting airborne, and going into the left orbit. I fixed that by making a smooth transition with electrical tape. ->
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/132#post-4742656

But yes, I did do the felt, and switched to the tape since it seemed to fix the airball problem more than the felt. Looks like I'm still getting lift on the ball with very fast balls and now its just manifesting in a different way (bouncing over the switch instead of going into the left orbit).

#7266 6 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Great job capturing the ball hopping over the switch! Trust me, I know how difficult those videos can be
Have you seen this post? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-right-orbitramp-ball-rejects
Your problem looks like a variation of the problem in my post. Your ball is likely tripping over the thick metal flap and going airborne. In my case it was smacking the edge of the guide (as shown in the post above). In your case, it looks like it's clearing the edge and just following the guide without any contact with the ramp.

Yeah, but I already did the vinyl fix (I was previously getting a worse problem with the ball going airborne from hitting the metal flap and then either going into the left orbit or getting bounced back when hitting the wall (like in the thread you linked to)).

Its possible I just need to redo my vinyl ramp....make it longer, or smoother or ...just try again and see if I get less ball "loft" on fast balls.

#7269 6 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Correct...I believe you need to fiddle with the vinyl ramp. Took me a few tries before I had it dialed in...

Alright... I think you are correct. I'll try again and see if I can't make my transition a bit smoother and see if that helps.

I also joined the mantis club!

20190216_160516 (resized).jpg

I also put some mylar pieces in front of it. I can already tell a big difference with my scoop rejects....much more satisfying to aim for now!

I believe you had previously said the hardest part of the mantis install was getting the old cliffy off. But for me...removing the phone scoop mechanism was the hardest. It was just so awkward with the wire bundle behind it, even after removing the wire bundle from the wire holders and disconnecting a few wires. Just really tight. Actually...the hardest part was trying to get the phone scoop back in place, not removing it.

But, I got it in. And...look what I found in the scoop!

20190216_160658 (resized).jpg

Its the trapdoor flap that broke off from the original trapdoor. It had made its way around all the way to sit in the scoop!

#7283 6 months ago

Finally got up to 6 letters yesterday! A personal high for me.

20190217_142516 (resized).jpg

I think around...letter 5 or 6 the special outlane light lit up.

First thing....I'm not sure how it was switching from left to right outlane, as I don't think it was moving via flipper flips (I was "in the zone" at the time so could be wrong).

Second...I did actually drain and have it rollover the lit lane, but...nothing really happened? I thought I would get an extra ball or something. The wiki doesn't have any mention of the special lights either ->

http://tiltforums.com/t/dialed-in-rulesheet-wiki/2855

Anyone know if these are actually used?

#7313 5 months ago

Ok, when I replaced the right ramp success switch, I had no problem with removing the wires from the original soldering, but the diode was a big pain to remove. I should have bought diodes with my pbl order, but I wrongfully assumed buying the switch would come with one.

Anyway, how do you know which one is the correct diode for a switch? The only diode that looks similar is this one ->

https://www.pinballlife.com/diode-1n4004.html

Is that the right diode?

#7315 5 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

That would work, yes.
Cheaper on fleabay as well:
ebay.com link » 100 X 1n4004 1a 400v Diode Usa Seller Get It Fast Free Shipping

Thanks, appreciate it!

2 weeks later
#7421 5 months ago
Quoted from pinstyle:

I finally got a chance to tip my theater down a little so I can better see the lower portion of the animations. Its not perfect but its better than it was, anymore and would start to lose the top portion. I ended up raising the rear almost 3/8".
I changed out the plunger for my trap door a few weeks ago. I ended up using a flipper plunger which is a little longer. This shortens the stroke of the trap door opening so it does not hit the wireform above it. I changed out the linkage to an arrow head type.
One thing I didn't see mentioned anywhere (or I missed it somewhere) was the lower pop bumper grinding on the neighboring ball guide. The same issue WOZ had. I needed to grind off some to give a little clearance. Unfortunately I didn't notice this until I had metal shavings all over the playfield. The ball moves fast in the game so it spread pretty quickly. A little late but hopefully this will save someone some trouble.

Oooh...nice about the plunger. So...which plunger did you end up using? Was it hard to switch out the linkage? (like...requiring a rivet gun or something) or did you just disassemble and reassemble with the new plunger link on. Pics? Also.....lengthening the plunger will definitely lower the "upper limit" of trapdoor travel...but can also lower the resting position of the trapdoor. Basically...are you having issues with the opening now not being large enough so a slow moving ball can't easily roll in?

I'll also have to take a look at the lower pop bumper and see if any grinding is happening. Thanks for the headsup.

3 weeks later
#7512 4 months ago

I totally forgot if I read somewhere if someone has/hasn't solved this ball trap behind the phone. Did someone come up with a solution? It seems like a post would have to be screwed on at the location I'm pointing at?

2019-04-05_1814 (resized).png

#7529 4 months ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

DIY
easy & quick, a small piece of plastic, cutted/folded to block that space, attach it with double tape face or directly with the original protec plastic screw there, as mine... (done right the same on the left plastic for tha BOB sign that i replaced myself too... )
now, if you want to make it more "professional", simply drill a hole on the lexan plate, and put a starpost, sure it will look great & as it was from factory...
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Thanks for the reply. Usually when I do a mod...I do prefer it to be completely removable, but...in this case it should be a permanent fix and I'm not sure I trust double sided tape. I'm thinking like this maybe? ->

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5052-01

detail (resized).jpg

I have to do a marco order anyway so this seems like a cheap but effective, and near factory look hopefully.

Actually...just looked again. Looks like JJP uses a metal post and rubber sleeve as a ball stop on the lexan plastic ->

20190407_121901 (resized).jpg
20190407_122354 (resized).jpg

They should have just added one in this location from factory. Its just a 1/4" x 1" #6-32 Hex spacer, with 2 screws, a washer and a rubber sleeve.

#7561 4 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

mine got stuck there today, not sure what they were thinking here.

Fortunately..its an easy fix. A quick drill and done. Upper playfield is easy to remove too.

So, I got both choices.

20190413_141507 (resized).jpg

20190413_141526 (resized).jpg

The smaller plastic post would work just as well as the full sized post, but I think looks a little wimpy. To keep everything consistent with the other post on the upper playfield, I went with that one.

And finished product!

20190413_170024 (resized).jpg

#7570 4 months ago
Quoted from koops:

What sort of rejects are you getting? soft ones or metal clanging?
Double check that your scoop is far enough back. pics here : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/121#post-4670653
I have a fairly early production le and my scoop was waaaay forward so that the metal edges were past the rubbers. This caused no end of rejects.
I moved it and no more rejects and im using a cliffy on that hole.

Do you still have enough space behind the scoop to remove the phone? The phone has a rather large plastic wire connector under the PF.

2 weeks later
#7670 3 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I haven't any issues with the Manits protector. If you are seen frequent bounce outs, I would check flipper coil strength (not too strong or it'll bounce out) or push the scoop bend down a little. It may have bent upwards slightly over time.

Why would an upwards bend of the scoop affect the bouce back rate?

Quoted from PinLen83:

I have a Mantis on mine. Zero rejects.

Could you take a pic of yours? I want to see if the sides of the scoop (vertical walls on both sides of the scoop) are less forward than mine are in relation to the rubber posts...

3 months later
#8816 11 hours ago

Pentium G3260 here...installed 1.71...and have per the usual....video lag (lots) and scoop coil inconsistency. Went back to 1.57.

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