(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

2 years ago

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  • 9,381 posts
  • 508 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by bigd1979
  • Topic is favorited by 178 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (2 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (2 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (2 years ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (2 years ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (1 year ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (1 year ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (1 year ago)

Post #1253 Velcro fix for right ramp hangup Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1258 Detailed pictures for adjusting a misbehaving trap door Posted by foobeer (1 year ago)

Post #1332 Getting access to computer in backbox on Dialed In Posted by hank527 (1 year ago)

Post #1347 Ball trap location. Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1377 Fix for USB at the coin door not working Posted by Pinhead1982 (1 year ago)

Post #1391 Fix for Tilt Bob not working all of a sudden Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1431 Adjustment point to grease for trap door to operate smoothly Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1451 Adjusting arm on Quantum Mechanic Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #2507 How to get in backbox to check audio connections Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #2661 DIY Lighting how-to for sides of Dialed In backglass Posted by lyonsden (1 year ago)

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#3339 1 year ago

I apologize if this has already been answered, but I could not find a clear answer.

I am about to purchase a NIB DISE, but was wondering if I would be able to get it through my bedroom door, or if I need to plan on storing in another room. The door measures 29" on the inside if I were to take the door off the hinges. I see the dimensions of the backbox are 29", but I'd like to get an opinion on someone who has one or had to get it into a tight room. Is unbolting the backbox and rotating a bit while strapping it down an option?

Thanks everybody, I've been slowly reading through this thread, so much information! I'm so excited, as this will be my first pin to own myself.

#3359 1 year ago

I am soooo excited. I just bought my first pin, and it's a NIB Dialed In SE. It should be shipping out today! If there is one thing I should do to this machine before I start playing, what should it be? (Assuming I've read the manual and set up as recommended already)

I was planning on getting some cliffy protectors, but I do not see them on the cliffy website (passionforpinball). Are they not being made anymore?

#3362 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Mine was built on Jan 30, 2018 and includes both real-deal Cliffys

Great news, thanks for the quick reply. I'm crossing my fingers that this one is not 'old stock' at the distributor. I just got confirmation that it should be picked up today! I can not think about anything else, so excited.

#3380 1 year ago

Just so everybody is aware, JJP is only installing the fluffy protectors on the scoops (as far as I'm aware). Cliff doesn't have the protector kit in his website, but you can still get the additional pieces you need from him if you email him directly. I also got some universal slot protectors for the inlanes

#3384 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Best for shiny appearance and durability, but not good for a machine with a lot of magnets.
You want the carbon steel balls in a machine with magnets. Something like:

I decided to go with ninjas. Mainly because I've seen a lot of feedback that says Dialed In is rough on balls and causes scratches and dings very quickly with carbon balls, which turns into a scratched playfield. The thing is that carbon balls get magnetized too, just slower. I've got some magnetism gauges and degaussing equipment at work, so I'm going to run some controlled experiments on the ninja balls and try to document a cheap procedure to demagnetize them. I know there has to be a way, but it might be difficult finding the orientation of the magnetic field.

I'll post if I figure out anything useful. I'd rather swap balls out every 100 games or so than scratch up the playfield in the same amount of time, if what ppl are saying is true.

#3385 1 year ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

You can buy the carbon steel balls from Ball Baron. They are about as shiny as you can get for a carbon core ball. But they aren't nearly as shiny or as durable as the Ninja. What I do is just use the Ninja balls on Dialed In and when they become slightly magnetized (enough to notice but not really affecting much) - usually after 100 games, I toss them in a game with no magnets. Impacts destroy magnetism so after 25 games or so in the non-magnet machine the balls no longer have any magnetism.

This sounds like really good advice if you have another game. A tumbler might work as well if you only have the one machine.

#3391 1 year ago
Quoted from Coz:

So excited, I’m getting my nib Dialed In LE tomorrow!!! After a few delays due to snow, it’s finally time to pick it up!!

Congrats! I've got a SE on the way. It arrived at the final distribution warehouse this morning, and I'm just waiting for the phone call to schedule the delivery! Nothing yet, so I'm afraid it won't be coming tomorrow

#3401 1 year ago
Quoted from JayLar:

I've got five sets of brand new Ninjas and two sets of carbon. Think I'm gonna start with the Ninjas until the game is broken in and eventually switch to carbon.

Quoted from crwjumper:

IMHO the Mylar has a purpose and should be left on. Yes you will have to replace it from time to time, but it still serves a purpose. JJP could have saved money and left it off but they think that it is necessary. I buy new shoes from time to time. I could walk around barefoot, but I find the shoes necessary.

I think they are recommending using an xacto to remove the mylar directly on top of the magnet. This would have cost more for JJP to do. The problem with the mylar on top of the magnet is that it gets a lot more force and will cause the mylar to buckle and peel. the magnet should not need protection, I wouldn't think.

#3403 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

the mylar, or the magnet?

The mylar gets destroyed, and would need to be replaced often. The magnet can more than hold up to the ball. sorry for the poor wording.

#3408 1 year ago

I received my dialed in today! It arrived in perfect condition. A bit bigger than I expected, but was able to wrestle it in the door with two people.

One question: What's the best way to remove the quantum theater to be able to cut the Mylar away from the magnet? How bug of a job is that?

After a few games, I can already feel rough spots on the Mylar over the magnets.


#3411 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Remove the magnet from the bottom, just a few screws, then use an exacto knife and cut it out.

Perfect. I didn't even think about taking out the magnet from the bottom! I was thinking it was going to be a heck of a project to get to it from the top side!

#3413 1 year ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Theater actually is very easy to remove....

Looked like there are 3 nylon nuts to remove, but would have to remove a lot of other pieces to get to all of them. The nuts also seem to be a non standard size. Smaller than 3/8" but bigger than 5/16"? Maybe 9mm?

#3434 1 year ago

I've had my game for almost a week now and absolutely love it! I'm very new at playing pinball (less than 500 games played in my life), and was proud to hit 800,000 on DI at around the 200 game mark.

The only thing wrong Ive found so far is that I have one pixel stuck on red on the big back box screen. Is there a chance this is fixable, or am I going to have to live with it?

#3442 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Agreed. And if it WAS just a single dead pixel, they probably wouldn't even notice it.

It is a single pixel, not a credit dot. It's probably 6 inches from the top and 2 inches from the right edge. It probably wouldn't that noticeable if I wasn't so anal, or if it was blue or green. A red single pixel looks like a spotlight to me when on a black background

#3443 1 year ago

So, I had a couple of other issues that I was wondering if anybody else has, and if there are any remedies:

1. When a ball drains, sometimes it will not fully go down the trough and trigger the opto. I will have to nudge the machine, and sometimes get a tilt warning.
2. If the ball does not have enough speed when going into the skill shot, it will not trigger, and I have to nudge the machine
3. Sometimes when the ball goes into the sim card slot, it will trigger the trap door sensor (Emoji, selfie, etc.)

My machine is set up just past the second bubble, and I am using ninja balls. The seem pretty smooth, have about 150 games on them, and they do not seem to be magnetized when I do the paperclip test. Should I wax the balls or the portions where they seem to be getting 'hung up' sometimes?


#3451 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Balls magnetized and sticking in the ball trough ?
Plunger that kicks the ball up to the shooter lane sticking up a billionth of an inch too high and not letting balls roll into place ? ( It is adjustable, four screws hold coil/plunger bracket to end of ball trough, can be loosened and raised or lowered. Don't go too far either direction )
LTG : )

I think it might be the coil/plunger now that you mention that. I'm glad to hear it can be adjusted. Thanks a ton, I'm going to check that out tonight.

Quoted from vireland:

For #1 it sounds like maybe the machine isn't level side to side or the balls are magnetized.
For #2 the wire on the switch needs to be adjusted so a slow ball can always trigger it. Using a wire switch there was a TERRIBLE design choice. It's butted up against stuff underneath and getting it adjusted perfectly is time consuming. Basically just bending and tweaking the wire trigger side to side and back and forward until it's just right. Once you get it right, it will stay, though. I was adjusting it on and off for about a month and after I got it right, it's stayed good for almost a year now.

That's great to hear about #2, I did not realize it was a wire sensor. Opto seems ideal there, but that's probably more $$. Thanks for the help. Great community here.

#3453 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

I think an opto was just a tougher fit. It's very tight in that area. Lots packed in.

Yeah, you're right. I just got done looking at it, and it's super tight.

I did find that the balls were slightly magnetized. They couldn't pick up a small paperclip, but they would pull a compass needle. I swapped them out with new and adjusted the wire switch and everything is working fine at the moment. I think I'm going to the a tumbler or vibration cleaner to try to polish and demagnetize the balls. I might even mess around with a degausser.

#3475 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Or just use carbon steel balls and be done with the problem.

I used carbon, but after 30 games they already had nicks in them and I had a few scuffs in the playfield, I even have a nick, barely noticeable, but I can feel it will my fingernail. I'm a little concerned with how they would affect the playfield long term.

After 200 plays with the ninjas, they still feel smooth. The magnetism is an issue though . It looks like ill have to spend a lot of $$ on balls, or figure a way to demagnetize the ninjas.

#3477 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Or just wax your playfield more often and use carbon balls. Problem solved, money saved. We're running them on a route and haven't had any issues, but they get waxed religiously. Ninja balls are about cosmetics of the balls, period.

Where do you get yourcarbons from? Any advice on where I could get? How often do you swap them out, on average?

#3483 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

On my game I can backhand the phone scoop and backhand the left ramp (just barley). I have upped the left flipper 1 point and the right flipper 2 points. Hitting the SIM card on purpose reliably is impossible for me. However, I think the SIM hole is easy enough to hit randomly so that you don't really need to specifically go for it, sooner or later it will fall in there. I try to get in a multi ball when I have it lit and most of the time it falls in there. When I spend too many shots dedicated to SIM card I get frustrated and end up draining, with patience I have found it will fall in there eventually.

Any tips on adjusting so I can backhand the scoop? It seems like I have enough power, but not the right angle. I either hit too late or it hits the sling post.

#3504 1 year ago

Has anybody had the problem where the ball loops all the way around and exits the left orbit when shooting the right ramp? It happens rarely, but the only think I can guess is that it is hitting something in the back and popping the ball up.

#3536 1 year ago

Sometimes (maybe 1 out of 10) when the ball ejects out of the phone scoop it barely hits the left sling post and will go straight into the middle drain.
Has anybody else had this problem? It seems level, but I'm using a 24" level across the entire cabinet to set it up. I may need to get a better level.
What about coil strength?
Added 18 months ago: Edit: right sling post

Added 18 months ago: Edit: right sling post

#3539 1 year ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Do you mean the right sling? Sounds like you may want to up the coil strength a little. I had to lower my phone eject and adjust flippers after I updated code. This machine requires tuning of both flippers, phone scoop and theatre magnet, at least on my copy. Takes very little time, and I like the control.

Yes, my mistake, the right sling post.

What are you looking for when you find your flippers? I did adjust the theater time delay to 125 and that seemed to help.

2 weeks later
#3900 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

I finally got to and completed the showdown wizard mode (no SIM card carry over) what a great pin .

Impressive, and congrats!! My best is 3 sims so far. I'm just glad to know I have a whole lot more games to play!!

3 weeks later
#4243 1 year ago

My bob trap door recently does not seem to be lifting up high enough to allow for consistent entries. In getting quite a few rejects if the shot is too weak. Sonetimes it will even get caught in the trap and I will have to wait for ball search.

This happened after around 1000 plays.

Any tips on getting it to raise more? It seems like its functioning fine and opening and closing. I don't feel any resistance when I manually lift it, its just not lifting high enough.

#4260 1 year ago

The trap door problem is fixed, part of the problem is metal flap on the trap door snapped off and got suck in the subway. What's the best way to repair this, and would it cause damage to play in this condition in the meantime?

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#4269 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Rivet a new flap on it.
Please go to jerseyjackpinball.com and open a ticket under Support on the help desk.
Won't really damage the game playing it. Balls may get stuck on it.
LTG : )

Thank you so much for the quick response! I submitted a ticket. A good opportunity for me to learn some riveting skills. Ha

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2 months later
#5068 1 year ago

I had the same problem with the ball dropping into the cabinet. I tried bending the bracket like LTG described, but still had the problem. I might not have been putting enough umph into it. I was afraid I was going to damage something, so I cut out a piece of cardboard and stiffened it up with some springsteel and packaging tape. I think velcro'd that to the inside of the bracket to close the gap (see the green square in the attached picture). It's been working like a charm, and is a little quieter when going into the trap door.

Quoted from foobeer:

Twice today, I’ve had the ball get wedged behind the trap door and under the playfield. I’ve owned the machine for a while and have never had the issue. I’m wondering if some kind of piece came off that stops the ball from going too far back where it doesn’t drop in the subway.
Anyone else had this problem?
[quoted image]

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1 week later
#5134 1 year ago

I would really like to see something to happen with the regular multiball. I almost dread going into multiball without having a mode started, because the points don't seem to matter, and I feel like I end up wasting my kickback or big bang. If you could start a mode while already in a regular multiball that would be great. Or make the shots worth more and scale (somewhat) with sim cards.

I'm really looking forward to being able to collect sims during chaos


#5165 1 year ago
Quoted from drjbeyer:

Just got a LE on a trade and my family and I LOVE the game. Haven't even begun to delve into the rules, etc. One question I have is when the ball goes into the shooter lane it is randomly awarding points before it plunges. I am thinking a switch is stuck somewhere? The points are a bunch of 10's, 50's, that rise up from the bottom right of the screen.

It's most likely one of your sling's switch is tight and barely making contact. should be easily adjusted, but start there.

you can confirm by going in the switch test mode and bump the cabinet to see which switch is engaging.

#5205 1 year ago

I had this same problem. Look at post #5068. I closed up that gap with some velcro and cardboard. Worked like a charm, and have not had the issue since.

It also makes a nice 'thud' sound instead of a 'clank' when it goes into the trap door

It's a design flaw, but fixable. If you'd like, I can take some pictures of how it looks currently.

I did have to remove the screws and pull the assembly away from underneath the playfield a bit in order to get good access and velcro the cardbord to the inside of the bracket. Just make sure it's not cut too tall to interfere with the trap door closing all of the way.

Quoted from Allibaster:

I'm growing frustrated with the Bob's ball jamming issue. I've tried pulling the solenoid bracket towards the front of the playfield as recommended, but this has not resolved the issue. I'm not sure how it would considering the ball is jammed between the playfield and the lower subway bracket.
Am I doing this right? It's probably happened about 10-15 times in the last 100 games.
[quoted image]

#5206 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Mine has done this as well- the issue is a right-to-left movement problem, not up and down like you might expect. There’s too much play in the hinge to make it works perfectly every time. Unless you lube or rebuild it

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#5217 1 year ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Thanks. Did you install to the inside or outside of the bracket?

The inside of the bracket. Much less likely to get ripped off from impacts on the inside. I had some adhesive velcro. I stuck the hook side to the inside metal part of the bracket, then I stuck the loop side to the piece of cardboard, after I cut it to size.

That way I can kind of slide the cardboard in and press it to the velcro. Pretty easy to pull out and trim to size if it's too large or fouling with the trap door mechanics.

#5224 1 year ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I ended up installing a small piece of wood from a paint mixing stick and securing with double sided tape and electrical tape. It's a bit ghetto but seems to be working. No fetching balls in the cabinet after about 10 games last night. Thank you.

Nice!! Glad it worked out.

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