(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

2 years ago

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  • 487 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by DeeGor
  • Topic is favorited by 159 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (2 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (2 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (1 year ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (1 year ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (1 year ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (1 year ago)

Post #1253 Velcro fix for right ramp hangup Posted by cooked71 (1 year ago)

Post #1258 Detailed pictures for adjusting a misbehaving trap door Posted by foobeer (1 year ago)

Post #1332 Getting access to computer in backbox on Dialed In Posted by hank527 (1 year ago)

Post #1347 Ball trap location. Posted by Kevlar (1 year ago)

Post #1377 Fix for USB at the coin door not working Posted by Pinhead1982 (1 year ago)

Post #1391 Fix for Tilt Bob not working all of a sudden Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #1431 Adjustment point to grease for trap door to operate smoothly Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #1451 Adjusting arm on Quantum Mechanic Posted by vireland (1 year ago)

Post #2507 How to get in backbox to check audio connections Posted by pinstadium (1 year ago)

Post #2661 DIY Lighting how-to for sides of Dialed In backglass Posted by lyonsden (1 year ago)

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#5293 11 months ago

Looking to join the club in a couple weeks! I'll be making a 14hr round trip pick it up...but I've been waiting for one to get listed near enough for me to pick up. Can't FREAKING wait!

1 week later
1 week later
#5372 11 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

I totally thought this was a joke

This guy is the guy with the Michael Jackson "Moonwalking Dead." He also did a retheme of another machine to Disney/Pixar Cars. Cant remember which game it was though. He's done other stuff. But yeah, I'm lukewarm to his mods and retheming.

#5394 10 months ago

Starting my 12 hr round trip to pick up an LE!

#5406 10 months ago

Some accompanying equipment arrived!

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And the game all set up!

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#5411 10 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Initial impressions on the game and sub?

The flippers feel different than what I'm used to; not as snappy as Sterns, but I'm learning to get accustomed to them. Still finding the shots. The sub is a subtle improvement to the sound. It's not as overly loud or punchy as I've heard in other games, but it definitely improves it and provides the missing bottom end. All of my moderns games have a sub, so at this point, it mandatory

The game is definitely awesome! Its been on my wishlist since it came out. I've played a handful of games on location, but its completely different at home. I can hear the audio and callouts and make small tweaks that I couldn't with a location game. It plays buttery smooth! I cant wait to explore the code and rules to more!

I'm going to order Titan rings to replace the standard rubber. One of them is already broke. The game doesnt look too bad to get to all of the rings, so that'll be a welcomed improvement.

#5413 10 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

You can adjust the power in settings. Also, perhaps check the leaf switches if you feel there is a lag.

What’s the build date? The more recent builds come with Titans.

June 2017 I think

#5417 10 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I recommend the clear Titans. They look great on DI.

You read my mind

#5422 10 months ago

I got to Chaos in Quantum City last night and didnt even realize I had gotten that far! Awesome! I need to read up on the rules a little bit more

#5428 10 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

It's the adjustable coils that make the flippers feel different. The ability to adjust is worth it. My right coil is weaker than my left, for example. Takes about a ball to get accustomed after playing a stern. W/b seem to be closer in feel, but still consistent and therefore different.

On default settings, the flippers are strong enough to get the ball where it needs to go. The left orbit shot seems "lazy" for lack of a better word. I did up the flipper strength to 23 (I think max is 25?) and it does play better, but it almost seems as if the flipper travel is slower compared to a Stern. I also have classic Ballys, and those don't feel as "lazy."

Also I couldn't find anything, but are there flipper alignment holes anywhere? Mine might be misaligned just a tad, enough that would make it out of line from the inlane guides. Is this normal or do I need to readjust to be inline with the inlane guides?

#5431 10 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

I'm still trying to find the sweet spot of power but not causing the ball to hit off the theatre targets and hitting the crossing wire form. Anyone figure this out or is it inevitable that you're going to get richocet hits off that crossing wireforms based on the design of the game?

This definitely happens on my game. If I brick off of the scoop, it'll airball onto the wireform. That was with default coil settings.

#5440 10 months ago

I'll try new sleeves and flipper return springs with default flipper strength. As far as alignment goes, I'll put them inline with the inlane guides, like I do with every game I have. I'll see if that makes a difference. If not, I'll up the coil strength a little bit...and if not after that, then I'll just learn to adjust to the game.

#5448 10 months ago

Is there a difference between JJP hole protectors and Cliffy Hole protectors? I thought Cliffy was making them for JJP now? I had asked the previous owner to send in an order for me through JJP (as he still had the game).

#5450 10 months ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

Make sure your leaf switches are adjusted correctly and that the flippers are not binding under the playfeild on the flipper bushings. LTG can explain it better than me if he wants to chime in. These adjustments made my flippers perfect.

I've done my fair share of flipper rebuilds

#5452 10 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

There was a run of games that had protectors JJP created/installed themselves, and were thicker than Cliffy's designs. they seem to be more prone to bricks and rejects

Ok. My game has nothing installed, so I'm hoping that the ones that JJP will send me are the thinner official Cliffy protectors.

#5467 10 months ago

Thanks for all the responses guys. I'm hoping I get the actual Cliffy protectors. Not sure until I have them in my hands. They were ordered at the same time as the manual (by the previous owner), so hopefully they are on their way to my address.

In other news, new Titan bands are coming today. Will be looking forward to getting the game torn down, cleaned up, waxed, and with fresh bands. There are regular rubber bands on the game now and the pf could use a good clean. It's never been waxed

Will also need to order new carbon balls. I have ninja chrome balls in it right now and they retain too much magnetism and get hung up on the theater magnet and trough.

#5473 10 months ago

I replaced my traditional rubbers with Titan clears, gave it a clean and a fresh coat of wax and...hollee chit! Game plays so good now!

#5476 10 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

Could you share a picture with the titan clears?

Yes, i can certainly snap some pics. Do you want the game on? off? Both?

Quoted from Marvin:

When was your game made, they have been putting titans on from the factory (white not clear) since fall of 17.

I'll have to take a look. There were traditional white rubbers on mine. I'm not sure if the previous owner replaced them or not, but I can't imagine that he did for a game that was just over a year old. I want to say it was made June or July 2017. I can take a look though.

#5479 10 months ago
Quoted from Marvin:

that was around, but might be just before, they changed to titans.

Either way, no big deal. It gave me the opportunity to clean a bit and get some wax in the pf. There were some ball trails that I didn't want to become too ground in so this was a good opportunity to polish it up and get it shiny again I put on about 6 games afterwards, and holy schnikes it fast! Good stuff!

I was able to get 4 Sim cards when it was "dirty." Now I'm hoping I can get two! Sometimes the ball flies so fast that the theater magnet can't catch it during EMP!

#5480 10 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

Game on please

I tried to get a few different colors. And I included a few pics of my game room just for fun

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#5482 10 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Nice game room layout. I like the tool box. Very fitting given the nature of these machines.

Thanks! There's not much space down there for much else, so gotta go with a small-in-one workbench and tool chest

#5494 10 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I would recommend waiting a year or so on POTC to see how it all shakes out. The designer seems like a great guy, but I'd hesitate to jump in head first on a new designer's first design.

Eric is an awesome guy and POTC is a super fun game. First design or not, I think POTC has the depth you would expect from a Keefer game, as opposed to DI which harkens back to the B/W style mode driven game. DI shots and flow are very smooth with a great ruleset, and solid art, audio, and video package.

POTC has a complicated (some might say overly) ruleset that you'll need to really delve into. The game plays well, but doesn't flow as nicely as DI. It does have lots of innovations and small (positive) nuances that make it really stand out from other machines. You'll not find a machine similar to PTOC as a whole.

You will have to try to play both of you can, then decide. I prefer DI over POTC, but that doesnt mean that POTC is a slouch. I'd have both if I could.

#5501 10 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Help me understand how Keith’s games are different from a mode-driven game? I am familiar with TH, WOZ, LOTR, etc but these all seem like mode based games to me

Mode-driven games, to me, are games where you have to complete a set of modes to make progression through the game to get to the final wizard mode. Looking at B/W games, Lawlor games specifically, if we look at TAF, TZ, Roadshow (just the first few that pop into my mind), you have to qualify a mode, start a mode, then rinse and repeat to get to the final wizard mode. Yeah, there are mulitballs, quick mulitballs, other "side" modes, but they don't necessarily give you progress through the game. If you think about TZ, you have the door panels. As long as you light them all, you'll get to LITZ. You have the main mulitball and the Powerball multiball. You could play those 2 multiballs all day without progression. Or you could play directly for door panels to get to LITZ.

If you think about LOTR for example, it has a much larger ruleset than TZ. Admittedly, I'm not super familiar with the ruleset, but from what I understand, there are several different objectives that you need to get in order to get the the final wizard mode. There are the 3 multiballs (from each of the movies), there are the ring modes, the gift of the elves (each requiring a different objective be met) etc. I'm not sure you could call those "modes" (some are modes, some are shoot X, Y, Z). Look at WoZ. I think in one of Keefer's interviews, he said that WoZ was LOTR 2.0, and just beyond the modes in that game, there are a plethora of other objectives to reach in order to get to Somewhere over the Rainbow.

I guess one could argue that the objective in Keefer's games could be considered modes. For me, it's more like ticking off a checklist of items before getting to a final wizard mode, where as, for more mode-driven games, there are actual modes that once you qualify, not necessarily complete, you'll get to a final wizard mode. I understand that with DI, you have to collect Sim card in order to get to Showdown, but that seems like a pittance compared to Keefer's ruleset lol.

#5505 10 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

So if I’m breaking this down; the difference to you is that a “mode based game” requires starting each mode, but not necessarily completing them to get the final wizard mode - and the more complex games (LOTR/WOZ, et al) require completing stuff in order to do so?
LOTR is based on “collecting” things - getting the rings lit, completing the battles, etc. (Are we considering Valinor or Destroy the Ring as “completing” the game?) This is also how TH works.
DI is more of the Addams/Twilight where you are starting each mode to progress, but must collect the SIM cards to get to the final mode. IMO if we are basing purely on variety, TH offers the most - you have the same basic 5 things required for each stage/movie, but the Smaug Multiball and the modes themselves
Offer a huge variety of challenges. Smaug, which also offers its own unique build-up in order to actually kill him, changes as you progress through the game. Mode inside-a-mode, if you will. The collect-the-dwarves and Beast modes are relatively consistent as you progress.
DI has another code update coming soon, but I doubt it will change the rule set drastically - I really enjoy the fairly linear progression, and the inclusion of all the video game sensibilities (bosses, mini bosses, etc), but I have to balance it with other games. I love DI but have not played it in a month after getting to Showdown. Then Pinball happened

I think we're on the same page, right? lol

Take TWD for example, a Lyman coded game. There are several different objectives you can choose to complete, each route leading to its own reward. Horde is attained by lighting all the Weapons via "Multikills" which can be lit in a variety of ways. Siege is attained by getting 12 jackpots during Prison Multiball. Last Man Standing is attained by getting 115 walker kills during the game. Terminus is achieved by lighting all 5 modes. Each of these objectives can be attained independently or in-tandem with each other, but do not rely purely on modes, ala DI. I think this is a good mix of not too simple (Tour the Mansion) but not too difficult (Valinor), with several different routes and strategies a player can take.

#5509 10 months ago

My sub must have just broken in, but it sounds great with the bass. Adds a lot of depth to the sounds and effects!

I was one shot away from Armageddon yesterday too. Tried to replicate it for several games after but didnt get close. Picked up 3 Sim cards along the way and got a 2.4 mil score. Not bad. Loving the effects, light show, and smoothness of this game!

#5510 10 months ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Moving my DILE to my new house today. I have it on the market but might just keep it as I really need to delve into it more.
I have a set of mirror blades for it uninstalled. I’ve put blades on before. Anything special to note if I decide to do the installation?

Which mirror blades did you get? Do they install with sticky back or screws?

#5514 10 months ago
Quoted from Hogbog:

Friday 10/12/18 at 3pm central: Live stream of POTC from the guys who made it.
Come check us out!
Be sure to subscribe to receive notifications in case we play unannounced again....
Oh, and a bonus stream Monday 10/15/18 @ 3pm of NEW CODE....FOR DIALED IN!!!!!!!!!! Hold onto your butts!

Exciting stuff!!!!! Thanks for posting, Eric!

#5524 10 months ago

Has anyone experienced the Theater magnet just dropping the ball, instead of throwing it into the orbit ala The Shadow? Is it an connector thing? Opto thing? Is there a magnet test? TBH, I haven't really tried to troubleshoot it. Just started noticing it over the last couple days.

the only big difference was that I changed out the Ninja Chrome balls to Carbon Steel balls. (plus the cleaning/waxing/rerubbering the week prior).

Also ordered some LEDs, and wiring to help light up the rest of the translite. Will be doing that Saturday.

#5526 10 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

You have to adjust the magnet in settings. Most people end up +/-20 from the default setting. Every game is different. It's trial and error.
I think I went up about 15, and it works maybe 75% of the time now. When it doesn't work, it still puts enough on the ball to alter the trajectory to avoid SDTM.

I wonder if it's because the new balls don't hold onto the magnetism and thus require more strength to throw it up there? I'll try it out. Thanks!

#5530 10 months ago
Quoted from Marvin:

there are times it is supposed to drop the ball and times its supposed to toss it. Whats happening when it drops?

The mystery award was when I first noticed it. I know it should drop when the kilowatt drop targets are on the screen or the subway doors are on it. Can't remember the other times where it throws it back, but the mystery award was what stood out to me.

#5547 10 months ago

Tweaked the magnet settings for the new balls. I set the value to -102 and the magnet toss works perfectly now. It needed a little more oomph to get the non-magnetized ball back around the orbit. All is good! Plus, it mitigates SDTM drains from the Theater and is a good way to feed the upper flipper at times. Please dont remove it Ted!

#5553 10 months ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

Oh, things are way past the point of being able to remove that functionality.

I like the sound of that Can't wait to see the stream and play with the new updates!

#5593 10 months ago
Quoted from jorant:

Anyone here have a standard version? It's already hard to justify 8k.... that extra grand doesnt seem worth it. Your thoughts?

IIRC, you get the PC armor, Shaker, Volume/Headphone jack, and Invisiglass for the extra 1K. I think it's worth it. On the secondary market, there are plenty of DILE's going for 8-8500 right now, if that's an option for you.

#5596 10 months ago

The new code will add much more incentive to take the skill shot for Theater Holds (spider, kilowatt, drones, subway), and give purpose for shooting for those during regular gameplay to get QT multiball (You need two shots from each QT mode to qualify it). I always ignored those and the left side hurry up because I felt they weren't worth enough. Also really didn't care for UA MB that much since it wasn't worth much, so really glad to see that values are being bumped for UAMB and that the Theater modes are actually worth going for now. Can't wait to play the finished code when it becomes available.

Also got my manual yesterday too. I told my wife what was in the box, and she was like, 'are you serious?' lol

I'm not sure if I should display it or leave it in the box?

#5597 10 months ago
Quoted from jorant:

Shaker is on all versions.

Ok, wasn't sure as I bought mine on the secondary market.

#5602 10 months ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Nice LE on the market place right now with only 430+ games on it, fellow is asking 7699.

Funny, I just bumped that ad. Awesome price for sure.

#5614 10 months ago

Is it normal that you only scratch off the first lottery ticket, then have the rest of them automatically get scratched for you? Or is there a setting for this?

I'll start Lottery Ticket, wave to scratch off the first one, then for every ticket I get after that, it scratches off automatically.

#5621 10 months ago

Ok, just making sure it wasnt just me.

#5630 10 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Is there any discussion comparing the Mantis and the Cliffy protectors for the phone hole?
To me the mantis protector looks like it wouldn't interfere with shooting the hole. But I am not convinced it will protect the edge of the hole from getting roached.
Any insights, experiences or other thing to consider?

I just installed the Mantis protector a few days ago. Very nice quality and doesn't interfere with shooting the scoop or the kick out from the scoop. I have the Cliffy style protectors that I will use if I notice any surface wear. I haven't installed the SIM card protectors yet, but those will go on eventually. I'm afraid it'll prevent roll-ins though, since that scoop is damn hard to hit.

#5633 10 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Is there a Mantis protector for the SIM card hole?

No, just the phone scoop.

#5637 10 months ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

i'm of course loving Cliffys in lots of situation, but in few others, i also think the Mantis is a better choice, let's list TRON & X-Men for the scoop

I had a Cliffy for Xmen and had to take it out because it was causing slow rolls to roll SDTM instead of into the scoop. Very frustrating. Replaced it with a Mantis protector and is very much preferred.

#5736 10 months ago

Please don't even talk about DLC! We already pay butts to play these machines at home. Plus ops would likely not pay for DLC because of operating costs. This would most certainly keep me out of any machine that has this.

#5741 10 months ago

What does this mean? Last time I played, I turned off the game before it went to the Match sequence.

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#5744 10 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

That indicates that you didn't play an entire game.
In fact it looks like you didn't even drain your first ball when you turned your machine off.

Ok. This makes sense. I'm pretty sure it was a 3 ball game and I'm pretty sure the score was much higher than that, but no big deal. Thanks!

#5765 10 months ago

I'm having a little issue with a string of GI lights. I think it happened when I was installing additional LED strips to the back box. Anyway, the right side of the GI isnt working. I've checked the fuses on the main board behind the LCD screen and they all check out. I've also checked all connectors under the PF. Any thoughts on where I should look next?

#5769 10 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Boards under the playfield. Itsy bitsy surface mounted fuses, LED next to them. Green - good , Red - bad.
LTG : )

All the boards under the playfield are green. I didn't look for the fuses specifically, but I didn't see any red lights either.

#5775 10 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

In your manual (either on screen, online, or physical) look at page c-94 and c-95. This shows the board under the playfield that controls the gi and flasher lights. I have had a couple of machines where the connectors on this board have wiggled loose. double check to see if they are tight.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I did check this board and reseated the connectors that I thought went to the lights that were out (traced the wires back). But I will do them all again when I get home.

#5776 10 months ago

It would be all of the lights going to connector #2 on the diagram above.

#5777 10 months ago

To add, during the install of the LED strip, I turned the machine on to test the lights, but turned it off before fully booting (a couple times), plus I removed the phone scoop a few days after the install of the lights to install the Mantis scoop protector. I know a bundle of wires runs under where the phone scoop is, but I've checked all the connections there and all seems fine.

#5779 10 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Where and how did you connect the led strips? What kind of strips are you using? How did you make the strip? You’ve created a short somewhere so think about these questions to resolve the issue. Do you have access to an external 12v source to test the strip independent of the game?
Some connectors are fully powered, like the topper plug, as soon as you flip the power switch so despite the game not fully booting, a short would create an issue?

I used this LED strip
amazon.com link »

I soldered 18ga wiring from + to +, and - to - from the old strip to the new strip. I did a second length across the top, then soldered 2 separate lengths to run down the left side and the right side. On all of the new strips, I made sure to hot glue the soldered wires and use electrical tape around the solder points. On the original strip I just hot glued the wiring at the solder points. I can peel it up and try to get some tape underneath so that way it is not touching the metal case.

I disconnected the left and right strips so I can move the screen, but the second top strip is still connected.

#5781 10 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Can you do a continuity test with a meter? My guess is upon soldering, the + and - are touching somewhere .
Set your meter to test for continuity, one probe on + the other on -. If you get a beep, that's your issue. Or just unplug the connector that powers the strip and test continuity off the pins...game off when doing this.

I can test that. Would the strips work if there was continuity between them? Will have to be when I get home today.

#5782 10 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Oh yeah, sure is. At times I miss the TZ that I sold for Dialed In but I feel that a piece of TZ lives on in Dialed In as a couple shots really remind me of the game, same with the gameplay. Dialed In itself seems like it's paying homage to all of Pats great games through its code and gameplay. Overall its an incredible game.

I think DI has a lot in common with TAF, at least layout-wise. Other than the pops being in a different location, I think you could point out a lot of similarities between the two games.

#5784 10 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Boards under the playfield. Itsy bitsy surface mounted fuses, LED next to them. Green - good , Red - bad.
LTG : )

They all look good to me unless I'm missing something.

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#5785 10 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

In your manual (either on screen, online, or physical) look at page c-94 and c-95. This shows the board under the playfield that controls the gi and flasher lights. I have had a couple of machines where the connectors on this board have wiggled loose. double check to see if they are tight.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Reseated all the connectors and still no go

#5787 10 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Can you do a continuity test with a meter? My guess is upon soldering, the + and - are touching somewhere .
Set your meter to test for continuity, one probe on + the other on -. If you get a beep, that's your issue. Or just unplug the connector that powers the strip and test continuity off the pins...game off when doing this.

I clipped off all of the backbox lights and still no go.

#5788 10 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

In your manual (either on screen, online, or physical) look at page c-94 and c-95. This shows the board under the playfield that controls the gi and flasher lights. I have had a couple of machines where the connectors on this board have wiggled loose. double check to see if they are tight.
[quoted image][quoted image]

It was a connector! I missed it when I went through the few times. Now I have to reconnect all of my backbox lights lol. Thanks!

#5790 10 months ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

Ha, sorry for the delay. Small kids distracting, you know. Glad to see it is working.

I hear ya! Got a 5 yr old and 3 yr old of my own

The connector was hiding underneath a bundle of wires so I didn't find it initially. The diagram you posted was the key!

#5801 10 months ago
Quoted from Chisox:

I got this one from Amazon. Five minute fix that works like a charm. PM me if you need help installing.
[quoted image]

Will this eliminate the pop on my Polk sub when I power the game on/off?

#5813 10 months ago

Go 1/4" smaller if it keeps happening.

#5837 9 months ago

I did a full Titan refresh on my game (all of my games have Titan). I've tried super bands and they are very grabby, dead bounces don't really bounce, and just feel too different from natural rubber. Titans are a great compromise of long life and natural rubber feel.

#5840 9 months ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Often times my Dialed In doesn’t register shots in the right orbit. Usually it happens when I hit a hard fast shot.
I checked the switch and opto on the orbit and they seem fine.
I have my flipper power set to max. Which makes a perfect orbit hit sling around fast.
Anyway to address this to prevent the game from missing the shot?

Are you testing with a ball or with a finger/stick etc? I would think just some adjustment might be needed if it is not registering with a ball.

#5844 9 months ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Testing with a finger. Everything seems good so not sure what to adjust?
ralphs007 maybe a software bug?

The opto should work with ball or finger. If the microswitch is registering when you press on it with your finger, then I would adjust it and roll a ball through to see if it registers that way. Do it both slowly and quickly. Then adjust the switch itself or the actuator so that it registers both ways.

#5899 9 months ago
Quoted from romulusx:

I think if you contact Frank they’ll sent you Cliffys

Just fill out a form on the JJP website. I have the Mantis scoop protector installed, and I'm not sure if I want to install the Sim card hole cliffy...it's hard enough to hit without one!

#5902 9 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

You're just raw-dogging the sim card hole currently? How is it holding up?

lol. It's got mylar on it from the previous owner (JJP installed?). There was a little chip in the topside (towards the back of the machine) when i bought it. It's held up fine so far. I get probably 50/50 random bounce-ins/dribble-ins:aimed shots. It definitely doesn't get nearly as many direct shots as the phone scoop does.

#5926 9 months ago
Quoted from msj2222:

They also said, code was coming the beginning of this week!

If the "delay" means the code will have more added to it, then I say take your time. The code as it sits now is more than enough to keep you busy! Keep going for Showdown

#5937 9 months ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

Two of my favourite shots in DI are hitting Big Bang while in a mode and the ball drops right into Sim card, and hitting the telephone scoop with the upper flipper when the ball is slowly coming back down the right orbit. I am just starting to understand the nuances of this machine, what a great game!

Getting Big Bang when you know you can't finish a mode, and there are just a couple seconds left on the ticker is THE BEST THING EVER! lol

#5969 9 months ago

Can someone post a link to this group you're all talking about?

1 week later
#6199 9 months ago

A 10 inch Polk is more than sufficient
amazon.com link »
I also agree that a sub for every modern pin is almost requirement at this point, especially at that $99 price point. Completely worth it for DI as well. The bass drop when you complete one of the goals for QTMB is pretty awesome, and is a good audio indicator that you've completed something.

#6202 9 months ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

That 10” Polk was on sale for $89 a few weeks ago I believe.... I’m gonna grab one and try it out the next time the price drops.

It's gotten as cheap as $69.99 and with Black Friday around the corner, I wouldn't be surprised if it goes on sale. Ebay also has 10%-20% off coupon codes that go out every once in a while, that could be used towards a sub. Lots of ways to get it <$99

#6204 9 months ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

Big Bang is extra awesome with an external sub too. Thiel does it again!

Completely agree! With the white and blue lights in a dark room, can't be beat!

#6231 9 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Yes! Ted released another new beta today. 1.57 is available for testing

Thanks for the heads up! Downloading now.

#6232 9 months ago
Quoted from estrader:

Can someone please help to explain where the sub woofer plugs into? The speakers normally use the green input.
Do I use a y connector to plug the subwoofer and speakers into the same input?
[quoted image]

I just used alligator clips on speaker wire, clipped it onto the cabinet sub, then ran the speaker wire to the external sub. Takes all but 10 minutes.

#6234 9 months ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

another code update..... dam it lol. I need to get invited to the Google group again.
Wonder what changed from 1.56

== Version 1.57 November 15, 2018 ==

- NOTE: This is a "delta" upgrade, which can be installed over V1.50 and later

=== Game Code

* Fixed phone screen going blank during bonus count
* Fixed scoring in Chaos MB to always be a multiple of 10
* Changed scoring in Quantum Theater Multiball
* Fixed lag at game start after BOB animation/speech
+ Added some more speech in a few places
* Added a few lamp effects
* Updated Operator Manual to 3.3

#6259 9 months ago

Has anyone repositioned their BOB sign? Can you share what you did?

#6267 9 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I'll post up pics of my DIY sign tomorrow. It's much better than factory. You can actually see it. Next best thing is the Mezelmods upgrade, but $$$.

I was thinking it would be something as simple as an L-bracket to push the sign out further that would cost $.50. Looking forward to seeing your solution.

#6268 9 months ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

I believe it was positioned in that way to avoid balls getting lodged behind it.

Interesting. I have some leftover polycarbonate sheet. If I push the rear of the sign out to angle it towards the player more, I can cut out a small barrier for possible ball traps. Thanks for the info!

#6272 9 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I angled the brackets as much as I could to face the player and used a small piece of double sided tape to secure the end that is swung out. Obviously, this creates a ball trap if an air ball finds its way behind there, but this has never happened on my game.
The sign is much more prominent and readable now.
Some people put the smaller "BOB" plastic up by the Station 3, which looks cool. I don't know how that sign would be secured, though.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Was the sign screwed in or riveted in?

1 week later
#6358 9 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok, so the squeaking/creaking is happening only when Betty is raising the diverter, because the wheel is rotating up and pushing against the circular plate above it. There is more metal against metal pressure when going up than down, hence...only squeaking when going up.
[quoted image]
It looks like there is originally maybe some grease on the rotating wheel? I do have oil/gun-oil that I could use but it seems maybe some kind of grease might be more appropriate here? I am definitely not a mechanic though.

If you have superlube, I would probably put the thinnest of coats on it. I'll have to do this as well since mine squeaks also.

#6360 9 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

I would need to get some superlube…...they make both an oil and grease. I would assume the grease then?
Also, my shooter rod also squeaks a bit. Should I use superlube or powdered graphite?

I wouldnt use anything on the shooter rod, just check to make sure its clean.

You would want the grease.

2 weeks later
#6472 8 months ago
Quoted from delt31:

yes but HOW do you achieve success off that right flipper? How long are you waiting, timing, etc....? I feel like i need to get better at hitting from the right flipper. I removed the top rubber near the SIM shot but not sure that really helped.

I've tried to get a good feel for the side ramp, which is much easier to hit. Once you can consistently hit the side ramp, then I delay it just a tad to try to get the Sim hole. Works maybe 25% of the time lol.

I've also tried to hit the left "tic" target to get the random bounce-in and also multiball for the random bounce-in.

Also no cliffy.

#6476 8 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I've lowered the rubber to the playfield on that post above the hole. I've also replaced the Cliffy with mylar.
Between those changes and the new feature of being able to collect SIM cards during multi ball, I may turn off the SIM card save feature.

Play as intended and turn it off!

#6478 8 months ago
Quoted from AFM95:

You can collect SIM cards during multiball on the original software.
However, maybe you mean in Chaos City Multiball for example? I haven't downloaded the new software yet, so I'm unfamiliar with the new options.

You couldn't collect SIM cards during CIQC multiball in the older version (1.50?)

In current V1.57, you should not be able to collect them in CIQC, UA, and the new Quantum theater multiball.


#6507 8 months ago

Awesome! Downloading it now.

#6513 8 months ago

Installed the new code (v1.60) and played a few games. I noticed some animations on each of the three screens were choppy, and the theater animation has a line on the far right side "out" (not an image but a line of color). Anyone else see this?

#6541 8 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

I updated to v1.60 this morning, and I'm seeing new issues.
I've never had problems with my drones before, but now they're mainly just off. Every 3-4 hits to the drones area, and the top drone will spin about one revolution slowly. The other two drones do not work at all. Again, they were fully operational before the update.
The other thing I've found was the main display's animations are kind of choppy. It feels like a lower frame rate.
Any one else experience these issues?

I posted the issue with the animations a few posts back but no one in this club responded. I'm seeing this also.

#6544 8 months ago

I may have to try to redownload the file and try a new install...

#6550 8 months ago

Redownloaded and reinstalled V1.60 and there's definitely reduced framerate/slow down of animations. Just seems as if the system cant process the information fast enough, like when you have an old computer. Hope they fix this soon, or reupload v1.50 so that we can get back to v1.57 until they put out a smoother code.

If anyone has v1.50, I would appreciate a link!

#6568 8 months ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Should I wait on 1.60 to be refined?

I would wait, yes.

#6577 8 months ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

I checked archive.org and the old 1.50 link points to
It looks like that link is still valid.

Thank you! As much as I want to be on the most recent code, it's hard to see the animations at the lower framerate. I really like the "pearl" colored light show on the new code as well as some new sounds, but that animations part of it makes me want to revert back.

#6597 8 months ago

I reverted back to v1.57 and there's a marked improvement in performance between this version and v1.60. Hopefully the software team can find the fixes!

#6605 8 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Could be magnetized. I've been told Ninja balls are easily magnetized on this game.

Yes, I have had a set of new Ninja balls get magnetized after a couple dozen games. I've switched to ball baron's carbon steel and they work much better.

#6632 8 months ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

I apologize for how long this took to diagnose, but it's been a quite an exploration.
If you have V1.60 installed on your&nbsp;Dialed In!, please try this delta update for V1.61.&nbsp; This should fix the screen performance issues.

==&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Version 1.61&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; December 21, 2018&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ==
- NOTE: This is a "delta" upgrade, which must be installed over V1.60
=== Core Code
* Performance improvements

No apologies necessary. Just glad to have updates and happy you're dedicated enough to make it the best it can be! I'll have to test it out tonight! Thanks Ted!

#6633 8 months ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

I apologize for how long this took to diagnose, but it's been a quite an exploration.
If you have V1.60 installed on your&nbsp;Dialed In!, please try this delta update for V1.61.&nbsp; This should fix the screen performance issues.

==&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Version 1.61&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; December 21, 2018&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; ==
- NOTE: This is a "delta" upgrade, which must be installed over V1.60
=== Core Code
* Performance improvements

Just played a couple games and it's still has display problems across all 3 displays

going back to V1.57 again

#6637 8 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

What are the display problems you are seeing? Maybe I need to look closer but I'm not seeing any new issues. As far as the video being played on the phone I've thought it was slow from 1.56 on.

After a time, the video lags behind the audio and there are pauses moving from one scene or event to the next, like the game cant process or compute fast enough to keep up with what's going on. I dont have any issues with v1.57 at all. It runs smoothly and perfectly. The video looks like it has a lower framerate and stutters.

Ted has asked me to take a video and send him a picture of the hardware info on my game. I'll have to reupload v1.61 but I'll be gone for the next few days.

I'm in no rush though. I'm still just thrilled this game even exists. Just put up a 2.5 mill score this morning and it's just such a fantastic game!

#6651 8 months ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

How long is "a time"? How many games played? Or does it happen while sitting there not being played?
I have yet to see any pauses or stutters. I did see (and measure) some slowdown in rendering, but I had to compare side-by-side to convince myself that there was a difference by eye.

I'll get a video for you. When I first started the first game, it looked smooth, but it was shortly after I started the first mode that I noticed the phone image wasnt syncing up with the audio. Then everything slowed down. I wont be able to get you a video until Tuesday though, unfortunately.

It was a noticeable difference. The audio would stop, while the character was still slowly talking.

#6655 8 months ago
Quoted from aeneas:

Must be ne not knowing the rules well enough but it usually surprises me when the mechanic diverter is down and the pinball gets on the mini playfield.
Nudging it in the top lane is not an option as I am too slow to realize where the ball is (passed the top rubber).
Is there an audio cue when the mechanic diverter goes down (or up again) ? Flasher in the back active?

There's usually a "clunk" sound effect IIRC, like someone dropped a tool, whenever the diverter is down. Not 100% sure though.

#6679 8 months ago

check_switch_26 here is the info you requested

20181224_151121 (resized).jpg20181224_151138 (resized).jpg

#6680 8 months ago

Date and time are off since I've been switching versions back and forth.

#6682 8 months ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

How long did you play before the phone display started to lay like that?

It wasn't long at all. I think I flipped a few times before a took the ball by hand to qualify and start the mode.

#6689 8 months ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

I appreciate everyone's assistance in getting to the root of this. Could one of you disconnect the USB cable going to the LED controller board on the playfield? I have a wild hunch. Let me know if the lag continues without the LEDs running.

There definitely still lag. The intros to modes are much better, but scoring a shot in the mode still results in animation lag. It seems to be the worst when all 3 displays are going at once.

#6709 8 months ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

Try unplugging the Bluetooth dongle. I have confirmation from Lermods that the problem went away with the dongle unplugged.

Unplugging the bluetooth dongle greatly improves screen animation speeds to near normal. Hopefully this can be fixed somehow in the next update.

#6721 8 months ago
Quoted from epthegeek:

While you're at it [Ted], how about give us a setting to just leave the thing out without the game complaining, since nobody uses it anyway.

I was going to suggest the same thing, unless there are plans to further implement the bluetooth feature.

#6772 7 months ago

Is anyone having theater magnet issues after installing 1.61? My magnet can catch the ball, but only tosses it about 10% of the time. I've adjusted the setting from -95 to -120 with very little success in between.

With the BT dongle causing video slowdowns and the theater magnet not working correctly, I'm going to flash back to 1.57 for now.

Just not having any luck on the new code

#6776 7 months ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

With mine I ended up using -150 after the update. Works great

Quoted from mountaingamer:

I’ve held off updating since 1.57 seemed so good anyways. This may be unrelated, but my theater magnet stopped throwing the ball about the same time I upgraded but ended up being the mylar. Removing the magnet from underneath and cutting out the deformed mylar made the magnet throw perfect again.[quoted image]

I'll have to try both of these things. At -120, I felt the ball was barely being tossed. At -116, it would throw only some of the time. I still have mylar on mine too. I'll have to take it off since it looks similar. Been working on it for the last couple between reuploading 1.57 and tuning the magnet. Still not like what it was a few weeks ago. Kind of frustrating, but I still love everything about this game!

#6793 7 months ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

can you tell me/us more about your game (on how, tactically, reach 12M !? after showdown, did the multiplicators modes remains ?)
as mine high is "only" 7.3M, having reached/played armaggedon on ball 2, played the modes the best i can (as collecting 6 SIM cards, the others 2 were ready &amp; waiting), and last 2 balls (EB +3rd ball) only aiming for that f***** SIM scoop but with no success (there's a cliffy on it)
my pin is on factory settings (than no EB on points), with the SIM cards memory of course, and set 2 TILT warnings per ball as its more than sensitive (let's say as in tournaments)
PS : my combo champ is 26...

You need to *actually* go back to factory settings. 2 Tilt warnings per game, no SIM card memory, and replay on points.

#6805 7 months ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

I went back to 1.61 again to see if reinstalling it helps. It still doesn't, still having coil and video lag issues.
Trying to go back but I cant find the full 1.50 install. Can you give a link to that?

Have you tried taking off the Bluetooth dongle? That's helped mined. I can still notice it occasionally but it's not nearly as bad as it was.

#6810 7 months ago
Quoted from holminone:

I’m SERIOUSLY thinking about pulling the trigger on a Dialed In LE to complement my STTNG. My 16 year old daughter (and key sponsor on the purchase!) and I had an epic 8 mile bike ride out to The Flipper Room to check it and others out. She laughed out loud several times and score over 300k on her very first game and collected a SIM card on her first disaster.
Huge Lawlor fan. Super reluctant to buy new especially in light of the new tax.
What say you all? Waste of money or good idea?
[quoted image]

You're in the DI club thread. Of course we're gonna say YES! With that said, I would shop on the second hand market for a nice HUO. No worries about the taxes then, and you'll save some cash over NIB.

#6908 7 months ago

Has anyone replaced the USB extension cable? I'm assuming a 3 meter USB2.0 extension would work without issue?

#6932 7 months ago
Quoted from Kenz:

Why so many used DI's appear up for sale ?
It it just lots were sold or does the pin get old quick!

Likely selling to fund a new machine (ie Munsters) or make room. But then again, you could say that about any other machine on the marketplace as well.

2 weeks later
#7098 6 months ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

Here's what my forth phone is doing now. It never fails,as soon as I start enjoying my game again,the phone breaks down,or Bobs trap door/hinge breaks on me.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Have you tried moving the cable over to the theater to see if it's a cord issue? And vice versa, moving the theater over to the phone? Maybe play a few games with the phone and theater swapped around to see if it follows the cable or if it stays with the monitor.

1 week later
#7136 6 months ago

I have it set to carry over currently, and I have to say, it takes away the urgency to shoot the Sim card right after completing a mode, or to get MB started to increase your chances of getting it. I would also have to say that I have not yet collected more Sim cards carrying over than not carrying over. I'm thinking I need to change it back, since it makes the shot that much more important to collect, rather than, I'll shoot it *if* the ball gets to the upper flipper as oppose to, I *need* to get the ball to the upper flipper. It changes the dynamic of the game too much.

Also, I have just mylar at the Sim card hole, and it's looking fine so far.

#7147 6 months ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

I don't see it that way. If you are not one of the best pinball pro's in the world (and I mean world, not USA only) you will certainly not get all sim card letters without carry them over. At least not within a lifetime...

I don't know about that. There are 8 letters to collect. I'm an average player (maybe even less so), and I've collected 4 letters without carrying over. I'm sure if I only played Dialed In and nothing else, I could get close or reach it. It's doable, just not so overly easy that the game gets dull. Play the modes strategically, ones that you know you can finish. Maybe even stack 2 or 3 together. Get a MB started, and use the MB to try to collect the cards. Use the BOB mulitballs to light and collect cards. There are a lot of opportunities.

#7153 6 months ago
Quoted from AFM95:

I have to respectfully disagree with your assumption on how difficult it is to collect SIM cards. I know you didn't say they were easy to collect, but from you comment, you make it sound like it's a walk in the park for any average Joe. Yes, you obtained four of them. But do you do that on a regular basis? I'm assuming the answer is no.
I'd consider myself an average to maybe an above average player depending on the game, and getting 3+ SIM cards is challenging, even with carryover. I think my high is 5, and that's a 1 in a 1,000 type of game.
Is collecting all 8 SIM cards doable? -- of course. I'd like to see a pro record a game obtaining all 8. Does anyone know of a video that already exists that exhibits this feat? I know one exists with 7.

Of course we all have different playing levels. I had an exceptionally good game. I see TWD scores up near the billion mark and my best is 435 million. To me, that seems like an impossibility, but for others, it's obviously not. Of course, you can set it up how you like to set it up. I prefer not carrying the Sim cards over, you can can carry them over if you please. I'm just saying it's not impossible to reach Final Showdown on factory settings.

#7161 6 months ago
Quoted from AFM95:

I totally get it. I felt you were alluding that your average skill set, and your success with obtaining SIM cards, created a perception it's easy to collect them. I feel like when a shot is part skill, part luck, you can never assume it's an easy shot to accomplish.
I don't mean to come off crusty, but maybe it's because I'm still pissed off that we lost to Wisconsin last night.

No worries we're all here because we can all agree that this game is awesome and a blast to play, however you like to set it up!

I do agree that there's skill and luck involved with hitting the Sim card, and that it is quite difficult, and that I believe that Pat and Ted designed it that way purposefully, as it makes the road to Showdown difficult, but achievable and rewarding.

As far as basketball goes, the men's team definitely dropped several notches since Bo Ryan left, to the point that it's hard for me to watch. Fouls, missing free throws, turnovers...all the things that Wisconsin was known to be the best in the country at, has all dropped off since he left. Makes me sad.

#7166 6 months ago
Quoted from fnosm:

^^^This, without carryover.^^^
Making a SIM hole shot required for every SIM card removes flexible game play.
If you only lost one qualified uncollected SIM per drain (instead of all qualified, uncollected SIMs) that would be a better fit with the current requirement.
Better yet would be to just collect all qualified SIMs when the hole is hit.
Stacking SIMs would allow the player to decide their risk threshold.
Maybe you want to collect as you go, or maybe you want to just focus on finishing modes and let the random nature of being able to make the hole determine when you collect the SIM.
Many times while playing I start a new mode before collecting the qualified SIM. Because you can't restart a mode until they have all been played you are forced to abandon your SIM collection quest and focus on the mode. Once you have completed the next mode you are behind in SIM collection which further drives players to mechanically go for SIM collection after finishing a mode instead of having the option to pursue another objective.

That's a really interesting rule. I would welcome the idea of building up SIM cards, to however much you are comfortable with building up, and collecting them all with just one shot. That certainly adds to the risk/reward model that makes pinball so fun. Do you try to go for several modes and collect 2,3,4 Sim Cards at a time, but risk losing them in a drain, or do you go conservatively and collect them as you complete modes? I think it would have to be without carry over (still changeable in the menu).

#7170 6 months ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

+1 interesting...
but dont forget collecting a SIM add +1X to the multiplicator : than to keep that attraction of collecting 1 SIM card at a time &amp; when available, a stacked pack of SIM should only give +1X (and not the amount of SIM stacked)

Good point! Do I get my +1x so that each of my subsequent modes score higher? Or do I just want to hit the Sim card shot once to collect 2 or 3 cards?

check_switch_26, I think we have a v1.7 in the works!

1 week later
#7288 6 months ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

Try and ensure Big Bang is lit as often as possible, as soon as you start a mode hit the Big Bang target.
As the targets to light Big Bang are near the SIM card scoop often get a bounce into there as well.
Keep kickback lit by hitting B-O-B targets, which also lights award at left orbit, the mini multiballs can be worth some good points, as well as another opportunity to light SIM cards.
Try to only ever start a multiball with a mode running, then concentrate on the mode, not the jackpots.

If you have sim cards and you complete a mode with Big Bang, you dont get awarded points for shots completed in that mode. I usually keep Big Bang available for modes that I find to be too difficult and leave it for a last second shot to complete the mode, otherwise i would forfeit the mode. With sim cards collected, you want to make shots in the mode as you get the shot value multiplied by the number of sim cards. With even 1 or 2 sim cards collected, a mode completion can be upwards of 500K+.

Definitely try to stack modes with MB and/or lit sim cards. Modes that I like to stack with MB are Meteor and Acid Rain.

#7290 6 months ago
Quoted from Marvin:

you do get multiplied points for modes with cards collected. even using big bang, but you only get that for the ones you manually completed. If it take 5 shots for the mode you are in and you big bang immediately you get no multiplied points. if you make 3 shots then big bang for the last two, you would get the multiplier on the first 3.

Yes agreed. From the other post saying to light Big Bang, start a mode, then shoot it as soon as possible, you wouldn't get multiplied points for shots made in that mode, so you wouldn't maximize points. I was just pointing that out.

#7314 6 months ago
#7325 6 months ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

The thing with the phone is really really weird. I can't imagine that every phone replacement part is defective, too. It must be something different.

I was thinking similarly. I would test by swapping the theater cable over to the phone and running through a game with the glass off to see if it's the phone or something else (if the theater goes blank). After 5 phones seems it seems that there is an issue somewhere else.

2 weeks later
#7390 5 months ago
Quoted from koops:

Has anyone tried modifying the sim card rail &amp; entrance to make it better?
Just looking at it in comparison to other games it reminds me of the camera in tz. The camera seems to not be that difficult in comparison.
I don't have my tz anymore so I can't measure it to compare.
Is it a size issue or angle that makes this shot so hard?

It's the way the sim card hole is angled. The shot is angled perfectly for the side ramp, but the sim card hole sits just below that shot and the hole isnt 100% aligned with the flipper. There's a smaller window for that shot vs the side ramp.

The camera hole in TZ is much wider and the shot is aligned perfectly with the upper flipper, making it much easier to hit consistently.

#7403 5 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

It sounds like you’re claiming that lawlors design is flawed. It’s not. The shot was designed without a protector.

Nope, not claiming that at all. Just pointing out why it is difficult compared to the camera shot, which is much wider and angled straight towards the upper flipper in TZ.

3 weeks later
#7494 4 months ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

I have had this machine for a year and just tried adjusting magnet behaviour to Difficult. If you haven’t tried it, it’s hilarious.
Game Settings~Under Attack Mulitball~Multiball Magnet Behaviour~Difficult

Why is it hilarious?

#7515 4 months ago

I had one of my best games today. Got DIALE and over 4.5 mill. Reached Armageddon for the first time too. So awesome!

#7517 4 months ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Wow, awesome! Just curious, does your shaker motor seem to slightly go off or pulsate when the games main multiball is ready to start at the scoop? Just want to make sure that's normal.

Yeah. The phone rings and the game "vibrates" just like a regular cell phone.

#7542 4 months ago
Quoted from JMK:

I've installed the most recent cliffy style phone scoop protector for quite some time and continue to get some bounce outs.
Has anyone tried installing some dead foam or rubber at the back of the scoop to help with this?

Mantis protector ftw

#7544 4 months ago
Quoted from JMK:

Thanks, I may do that eventually. However, I've got a very tiny bit of chipping which I would prefer to keep covered with the cliffy.
Anyone else try some dead foam or rubber to reduce bounce outs?

Bummer about the chipping. I've seen a fuzzy side of velcro being used to help absorb the impact. Might want to try that out?

#7563 4 months ago
Quoted from indybru:

Introduced myself to Pat Laylor at MGC show Friday.
Told him I have DI and love it. He said thanks for purchasing it.

I had a chance to talk to Joe and Pat tonight at MGC as well. Told Joe I heard him almost every day. At first he seemed confused, then I told him that I played DI almost every day lol

1 week later
#7600 4 months ago
Quoted from jar155:

I thought I had updated to 1.61, but had not. Decided to do it this morning. It appeared to update fine, but it won't reboot. It will show the JJP logo and the a static image on the phone and that's it.
Bricked. [quoted image]

Did you do a complete install of 1.60 before doing the delta update of 1.61?

#7603 4 months ago
Quoted from jar155:

I was on 1.60, yes.

My next step would be to reformat the usb stick to FAT32 and try the installations again.

#7605 4 months ago
Quoted from jar155:

I did. It's just not doing anything. Maybe I'll try shaking it...

After you're done shaking it, try another USB stick?

1 week later
#7668 3 months ago

I haven't any issues with the Manits protector. If you are seen frequent bounce outs, I would check flipper coil strength (not too strong or it'll bounce out) or push the scoop bend down a little. It may have bent upwards slightly over time.

#7672 3 months ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Why would an upwards bend of the scoop affect the bouce back rate?

I'm sure there are physics involved, and instead of trying to sound like I know what I'm talking about, I'll just say that I did a similar thing on my TNA, which is notorious for scoop rejects, and it helped that game immensely.

I bent the phone scoop for a different reason. I was having trouble with the scoop kicking out inconsistently. Sometimes it would hit the top of the sling, sometimes down the middle, and everywhere in between. I bent the phone scoop down a little bit, and it now consistently kicks it to the right flipper. Something easy enough to try and if it helps, awesome. If not, you're on your own

1 week later
#7710 3 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Today May 9th is my 6th anniversary of doing tech support for Jersey Jack Pinball. I'm grateful for all the friends I've made. Jersey Jack Pinball co-workers, distributors, and customers. To celebrate this occasion at my business SS Billiards, I will give any one stopping in today six games on their favorite Jersey Jack Pinball machine here. I have the full line up. WOZ, Hobbit, Dialed In, and Pirates. So come on in and help me celebrate ! It's been a great six years ! Thank you.
LTG : )

Thanks LTG! I haven't had to use you yet (and let's hope I don't), but congrats! Also wish I was closer so we can stop out and say hi! Maybe over Memorial Day weekend as we'll be near the Twin Cities.

1 week later
#7770 3 months ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

It's certainly a gem! I've never started theater multiball yet. Don't know how to get to it

Collect 2 each of the Drones, Subways, Spiders, and Kilowatts in the Theater. You can see progress in instant info.

1 week later
#7816 3 months ago

I removed the mylar on my magnets once they started getting torn up. Was looking pretty ugly.

#7831 88 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

[quoted image]

I've had that happen on Baywatch with a 6 ball multiball. I couldn't nudge it free and had to take off the glass I miss that game.

I knew I had a pic of it somewhere...

f1ea27a9d41e4126ac6706a576ebbadc9f34218c (resized).jpg
#7835 85 days ago
Quoted from drizzt76:

My shooter rod black ball/handle cracked apart....again. Its the second time this happened. This one only lasted maybe 30 games. Anyone else have this problem and is there a premium aftermarket shooter rod to replace it with?

Two shooter rod handles? You've got the barrel spring installed right? Seems really odd. Modfather has shooter rods available, as well as many other places. I recall a candy color shooter rod offered at some point but not sure as I'm not into modded rods...

#7870 81 days ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

The screen on my phone is starting to flicker on and off. Loose connection? Where should I look first?

I would check if there's a loose connection. The vibrations in the game can cause the set screws for the plug to work loose. You should be able to access it without having to move anything out of the way.

If it's snug on the back of the phone, I would check the other end too.

If that doesn't work, I would swap it with the theater screen to see if the flickering follows the cable, or stays with the display.

#7872 80 days ago
Quoted from dirtbag66:

Definitely something wrong with the connection. I unplugged and reseated it, everything seemed to be working fine. But one hard hit into the scoop and the screen goes black. If I tap the top of the phone lightly with my finger, the screen comes back. Any thoughts?

You could try swapping cables? If your theater is working properly, then you could see if the problem follows the cable. If the phone still goes black after you swap cables, there might be an issue with the connection on the display board on the phone, in that case, you could reach out to JJP or try to see if there's a bad solder joint or etc, on the phone. Depends on how much work you want to put into it.

I would try swapping cables first.

#7875 78 days ago
Quoted from Silverbak:

There may be something wrong with your scoop as mine doesn't bounce out at all (&amp; would be super annoying if it did) I recall people stating that they've experienced the same &amp; moved the scoop (don't know the details on how they did this) to fix this issue .. worth investigating as the scoop shouldn't take anything like 12 attempts for a successful shot

I can backhand or hit it from the left side pretty easily. A cliffy protector might make it more difficult. I have a mantis protector in mine and there's no wear at the scoop. I've also bent my scoop downward just a bit (really to help with feeds). I think I read that some people moved their scoop back to help with rejects. I never did that as mine only missed because of my poor play.

#7911 74 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

another good news, about code suggestions we had here few ago, as i just got a more than positive answer email from Ted...

Anything you can share?

#7917 73 days ago

I wanna say this is a reported bug in v1.57 but I could be mistaken. I hope we see another update soon!

1 week later
#7955 66 days ago
Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

I havent looked at the factory install in depth...Easy to remove? Expect any playfield marks?

The mantis protector install isn't too bad. You'll have to remove the scoop from underneath, and from there, you place the protector in with the two screws from underneath the playfield. No marks or anything. We've been saying the Mantis protector is superior to the Cliffy protector in this case for some time now! I love Cliff and his protectors, but sometimes you just gotta go with what works better.

Not to bring it up (again) but remove the Cliffy protector from the SIM card hole if you have it installed and add mylar to the area to protect it. It'll make your game 1000000% more enjoyable.

#8013 60 days ago
Quoted from Mageek:

Q: I was in Fire mode yesterday and required to hit the left ramp. Since Lock was lit Betty kept her arm down and therefore I could never hit the ramp made switch to progress in the mode (unless I locked the ball). Bug or intentional ? Running V1.61

You should still be able to make progress in that mode with Betty's arm down. Check in switch test to see if it's registering with a ball.

#8025 59 days ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

True it’s not factory but as a newer owner these kinds of scores still baffle me. Haven’t gotten above 800,000 yet. Struggling with scoop rejects. Not from the cliffy - they reject by hitting the metal sides of the scoop mech itself.. that hole is damn tight. Wondering if I can remove the mech and bend the sides out wider..

Modes and SIM cards are huge. I would say they net more points than any MB or other aspect of the game. Even getting just 1 SIM card will double the scores on the next mode. And it gets exponentially higher with each SIM card 3x, 4x, etc.

Get your phone scoop adjusted and perfect, and I would recommend (again) a Mantis protector over a Cliffy protector.

#8032 59 days ago
Quoted from Marvin:

This is exactly the problem with carryover, you get huge multipliers even if you fail to collect the sims since you get extra chances at it. This makes the game way too easy to score on.

It still makes it difficult. I've played it both ways, and I can't say that I perform better one way vs the other. As a matter of fact, I had a game where I had carryover set up, but collected the 6 SIM cards that I collected that game on one ball. For me, that was a "once in a blue moon" ball. Would I have done as well if they were spread across 3 balls? idk. I haven't been able to get as many cards since, and it's still set to carry over.

Whatever your cup - set it up how you like it. Whether it's extra balls on points instead of replays, loose tilt bob, closed up outlanes, 5 ball games etc, doesn't matter what other people think about how you set up your machines. For me, I think I'm doing the game a disservice by setting it up too easy but if JoeBlow wants to do it, doesn't bother me any.

#8052 58 days ago
Quoted from fnosm:

In theory you can light SIM cards by completing modes and a handful of other ways too.
In practice I have only lit SIM cards by completing modes (proper or Big Bang)
Anyone ever light a SIM card other than completing modes? If so have your incorporated this into your game strategy? Any suggestions for someone that is jonesing for more SIM cards (aside from carryover)?

The other ways that I can think of, other than modes, is collecting the respective jackpots during Crazy Bob's multiballs. The modes themselves are much more abundant and accessible, so should be your primary objective, but the CB MBs are another opportunity if you happen to progress that far with those modes.

3 weeks later
#8288 33 days ago

When can we expect the code to be available for download? You would think at the latest it would be after the stream?

#8335 31 days ago

Thank you check_switch_26 and JJP!!! Looking forward to seeing what's new on this code! As others have said, DI already seemed pretty complete on current code so thanks for going above and beyond for us owners!

2 weeks later
#8650 17 days ago

You mean the mylar directly on top of the magnet? You can remove the round piece directly over the magnet. It will eventually get chewed up anyway,

#8652 17 days ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

It feels a little thicker then Mylar . If I cut it or remove it there will be a divet between playfield and magnet ?

you can remove it. I've done it on my game on both magnets. You can leave it on if you'd like, but eventually, the heat from the magnet and the ball movement over it will eventually chew it up and you'll remove it anyway. The spot over the magnet is already cut out. You just have to get something underneath it. There won't be any impact to ball movement once it's gone.

I removed mine by taking off the magnet and pushing it up from underneath, as it was starting to unstick and fall off, same with the theater.

#8663 16 days ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

I feel like I am? You just immediately press both flippers together once and that cancels it?

I chimp flip the shit out of the game until it cancels MB. You have to do it right after the ball is locked.

#8667 16 days ago
Quoted from Mbecker:

All right I’ll keep trying lol, sounds like it IS possible at least. Once you cancel, can you lock a second ball so you start the first multiball with 3 instead of 2?

No. Once you cancel (on your first MB) and you start a mode at the phone scoop, the Phone scoop will light again to start MB. On the second MB, you can lock 2 balls via side ramp for a 3 ball MB.

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