Thought I better throw my hat in the ring. New DILE owner. Very happy with the game. Had to do a bit of tweaking, but plays great now.

Love having a regular sized JJP game. Pat has really put some though into this. I guess he had a few years to think about it. And next to no budget restraints.

So skill shot not programmed yet?

Right, it is. Got it once before I wrote the post and nothing happened, but since then its been paying out. Its a good skill shot too, and love the 2nd stage super skill shot.

Did someone post here its difficult to open the back box? What was the issue? My backbox keys don't work at all - numbers match, key goes in smoothly, but key won't turn at all.

Also, having a lot of ball trough issues - think its a faulty opto board - position 3&4 often show as closed when there are no balls in the trough. Anyone else had issues?

They look like placeholders until they get a chance to fully animate all of them. JJP's track record on code is pretty good compared to its competition.

Sort of reminds me of TZ in a narrow body for some reason. Maybe code/modes. Anyone else?

Yeh, the flow and combos on DI are insane. But there's something about it that still reminds me of TZ - maybe its the packed nature of the PF - the feeling that everything has been thrown into the game with no regard to budget. Or the mode based code (sim cards = door panels), or that TZ also feels like non licenced theme. Some shots are very similar - right upper flipper to sim scoop = right upper flipper to camera, Phone scoop = Slot scoop, theatre shot = ball lock (but easier).

Anyway, whatever it is theyre both brilliant. DI deserves to be up there with TZ.

Speaking of PF protectors, for those that aren't putting one on, make sure you put a piece of Mylar under the station ramp, where the ball drops out onto the pf. TBH, the mylar protection on this game ex works is great - that's the only bit they missed, but probably needs it most.

Mine did.

Anyone having ball trough issues? Switch 6 (trough jam) intermittently shows as closed (when there's nothing there), and keeps kicking balls out mid game.

Ive reseated all the connectors, and traced them all back to the driver board, and reseated those as well. Doesn't seem to trigger if I wiggle any of these.

There was a post a while back that recommended cutting out the bit of Mylar that actually covers the magnet. I used an xacto knife and haven't had a problem. Need to do the theatre and the drone one. Found it easier to do it from underneath the pf. Best to do it as soon as possible so there is not to much sticky stuff on the magnet, but you can easily get that off with Citric acid anyway.

Jjp should be using Mylar that already has the hole cut out of it - maybe they'll change eventually.

As above. Game comes with plenty of Mylar around magnets and also elsewhere. Had to add Mylar under the drop from the station ramp, and of course need to add cliffy's on both scoops if not already installed.

Yeh, it mostly acts like the Magna Slings on GB Pre/LE, but also does some other crazy stuff occasionally.

Id be changing the balls.

Yep, they spin, just hard to see. Play a game with the glass off and you can feel the air moving, its kind of weird.

And....??

Do we know if JJP are planning one for DI?

Wow, impressive first pin. Hopefully its not all downhill from here

Wow, impressive wife! Keeper for sure lol

Definition of torture.

That looks like protective cling wrap on the cab? Good idea, but wasn't on mine.

Finally got my game up and running after 2 consecutive ball trough board failures (!!!!).

I remember reading it but don't know where.....what mode dictates the movement of the mechanics arm? I know mechanic multiball, but what else?

Also how do you adjust the mechanics arm alignment?

Had already been though all the troubleshooting. In the end I had to replace 2 sets of faulty trough boards. Working well now. But these trough boards could be a problem going forward - so close to the ball trough coil.

What I was after was some explanation on the mechanic diverter. Apart from mechanic multiball, when and why is it activated? Also, how do you adjust the height of her arm?

Just been through this exact scenario - trough optos 5 & 6 were flaky. Game was endlessly shooting balls into the trough. Spent hours trying to troubleshoot including re-flowing solder, replacing plugs, testing switches etc etc. Game was out of action for a couple of weeks. In the end one of the opto boards was broken and getting a new set did the trick. Jjp supplied replacements, no problem, but I've got a feeling there's a bad batch as there's at least one more locally with exact same problem.

Similar, but not interchangeable

I had rejects to both left and right when I first got it. On the right, I think the cutout from the left loop was causing it. I put some adhesive felt just under the cutout which seems to force the ball away from the cutout. I'll take a photo tonight or tomorrow. Whatever was causing it, the felt (was actually the soft side of adhesive Velcro) seemed to do the trick and I don't get rejects anymore.

Just installed my cliffy protectors, replacing the JJP ones. Was getting so many rejects from both scoops with the JJP ones on, that the game was almost unplayable. The Cliffy ones are perfect - almost as good as without any. No rejects at all now.

Also, when I replaced the sim scoop protector, I replaced the white rubbers with much smaller ones. The hole is still hard to hit off the top Flipper, but no where near as hard as it was.

IMG_9466 (resized).JPG

Try this easy fix which worked for me. Be curious if it helps others also:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/26#post-4048873

If he doesn't have stock, get the free JJP first and then swap it. I would think they'd have it sent out pretty quick.

Just open a support case. They'll send both the sim and the phone free.

http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/

But still get the cliffy down the track as it's much better.

Added over 6 years ago: Confirmed NOT Mirco.

Is that a repro AFM PF?

Added over 6 years ago: .

Its definitely also needed on the phone.

It was only really minor, and its now under the cliffy, but it was only after about 20 plays. Was on the right side, below the mylar. On the bevelled edge bit. T Wasn't an issue as it was, but had I left it would have gotten worse.

That's probably a little high, but it should definitely be slightly above the pf otherwise the pf edge will wear.

It's easy to adjust - just need a big flathead and wrench. Just experiment with the thread directions.

Congrats and welcome! Nice first game. Plenty of help on here to get it "Dialed In" when you finally get it.