(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 7 days ago by RipleYYY
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23 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (7 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (7 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (6 years ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (6 years ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by PinMonk (6 years ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (6 years ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (6 years ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (6 years ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (6 years ago)


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#3787 5 years ago

Just returned my Alien brick with lights to the distributor and ordered a DI Le. Haven’t read a lot on this blog yet but nice to hear positive talk. Looking forward to getting it next week.

2 weeks later
#3971 5 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Which fuse blew on your game? I had F706 blow on mine and I'm pretty sure the issue was the auto shooter VUK was stuck open against the right tab of the apron and therefore resulting in a short. I bent that tab up a bit, replaced the fuse and everything has been fine since then.
If the Invisiglass is really scratched I would ask your distributor for a replacement. Are you sure it's not adhesive stuck on? Try buffing out with micro fiber cloth and an amomia free glass cleaner (I use Sparkle). Broken QUED lightning bolt seems to be common, had same issue. Which plastics are scratched?
Also, I would highly recommend tossing the balls that came from the factory. Those and even the Super Shiny premium carbon core balls can get pitted easily and scratch your playfield. Order the Ninja Chrome ones from Ball Baron, those work perfectly and hold up well.

Looking at the Ninja balls online. It says they can become magnetised, is this anyone’s experience.
What other balls have been used successfully and are the factory balls really an issue.
I have a game on order awaiting delivery.
Thanks.

1 week later
#4191 5 years ago

Is the headphone jack volume control intended to control the speaker volume. It’s on in the menu but not working.

#4194 5 years ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

Is the headphone jack volume control intended to control the speaker volume. It’s on in the menu but not working.

Answer, take off ya beer goggles and connect the jack inside the cabinet.
I have just put in Sennheiser phones, sound great.

#4196 5 years ago

It fits an iPad and Galaxy s7.

#4197 5 years ago

Just swapped rubbers to Titans. Same result as my AFMr, score jumped dramatically straight away. The DI rubbers are definitely better than AFMr, but Titans are unbeatable for me.

#4201 5 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

When was your game built? JJP has put titans on from the factory since last fall.

October 3.

2 weeks later
#4433 5 years ago

I slowly wound mine back to -22 delay with testing. LE no 545, so earlish build. I would go slow.

#4439 5 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I think default is - 80 !!

It came at zero. No sling at all. -22 just flicks it back for a nice easy set shot at the ramp.

#4461 5 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Just FYI......the LE# is completely arbitrary and has nothing to do with the build date.
Just sayin'.

Sorry, October build.

#4517 5 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Just starting to explore my DILE. So far, loving it. Mine was made in March this year so not really sure if I have the JJP protectors or true Cliffy's installed. The phone shot is pretty reliable but I have a terrible time hitting the SIM shot. Honestly, all the shots off the upper flipper I find very difficult. I very rarely hit the inner ramp when trying and don't think I've hit the SIM shot once when actually trying off the upper flipper. To my viewpoint, it looks like weird angles to those shots and the SIM has those posts on either side.
Any suggestions besides just continued practice?

Try playing around with your upper flipper strength.

#4532 5 years ago

Regarding ball getting stuck behind phone. There is a clear plastic behind the phone that on mine was sticking out to the right of the phone. It must be intended to stop this issue. I found that I could bend it back, just behind the phone and catch it on a mounting bolt. I can’t see how a ball could get back there any more.
Another issue was the ball not launching out of the phone VUK properly. Played with the solenoid settings, turns out it was hitting the ramp in front of it. Bent the metal guide down just a bit and reset coil to factory 20. Works like my AFMr now. Photo of clear plastic behind phone just clipped behind bolt.

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1 month later
#4831 5 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

So this is about my WOZ (I have a Dialed In also) but related to JJP tech support. My CPU isn’t booting up, and I put a ticket in on 23 June. Steve emailed me on the 24th with some things to try. I emailed him back on the 24th, 27th, 4th July and 12th July with no response.
Does anyone know what’s going on? Emailing him daily sounds a bit pushy but on the other hand I’ve had a dead machine for a month now...

Have you tried Wayne, the importer. He is very good.

3 weeks later
#5055 5 years ago

Found two thumb screws inside the machine. One top left and one top right corner on timber bottom. Any ideas where they came from.

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#5057 5 years ago
Quoted from clg:

They are for the coin mech. Not going to hurt anything.

Thanks, I remember them now in an old machine. I don’t have mechs in either of my current machines and I found these way at the back. I have also vacuumed inside previously. Must have just missed seeing them before. Don’t know how they would have got there.

3 weeks later
#5259 5 years ago

I seem to have a problem with Monkey Wrench Multiball. When playing I am passing the diverter and it is not registering as a successful pass. I have tested the three switches with the ball independently (up the ramp, just before Betty and just after Betty) it is recognising attempts but not successful passes. I have tested them in the multiball and outside it with same results, all register a score. Any ideas.

#5268 5 years ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

Best guess: The "before" and "after" switches are reversed.
--Ted

And the lateral thinking award goes to Ted. Thanks mate.

#5273 5 years ago

I has the same VUK problem. Bending the VUK and adjusting the strength fixed it beautifully. I didn’t bend the ramp. Maybe bend it back.

1 week later
#5336 5 years ago

While the discussion regarding update wishes is still going. I am sure I am not the only person who would love a pause function. It could be activated possibly by holding in the start button for more than 5 seconds for example. The next time the ball enters a VUK, subway or lock it could be held until the start is held again for 5 seconds. Using the start may be difficult for one legged users as a knee would have to be used but I am sure pretty quickly someone could come up with a better way. The phone app could display a huge red pause button on your phone for example.

1 month later
#5808 5 years ago

If you play enough games the ball will find a way.

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In the left sling.

#5944 5 years ago
Quoted from ralphs007:

That's funny! One night my wife thought I was losing my mind,when I said I'd like to ring the QED guy's little neck.

I find the QED guy saves more SDTMs than anything. He only seems to get in the way of the pops, the left ramp still gets them, other shots can get past him. Even the hurricane mode, the magnets can pull the ball around him when going for the theatre quite often. Just aim for the Big Bang. New code should make his save ability even better.

#6116 5 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Its not the best looking but u really dont notice while playing.... but it plays so much better with the wire guide on top. [quoted image]

The mount on which you attached your wire was where I put about four or five washers to raise that wire form. I also slightly decreased the PF angle. This was just enough to slow that rapid speed towards that last bend. I had pretty bad problems with this issue, it was even hitting the stop hard enough to jump out and over everything and skip the flippers and SDTM or left drain on occasions. I may have even slightly pushed the whole wire form very slightly down in the middle to take a bit of extra speed off the descending ball.

#6134 5 years ago

Has anyone fitted orange rubbers to the PF and flippers. I just ordered orange Titans for all but the standard black. I would love to see photos. It takes a few week to arrive here in OZ.

#6176 5 years ago

From my experience as a first time JJP owner. I found it best to play the hell out of it and seek answers to the questions that come up on the way. It’s a complex beast. Great journey. Enjoy. It just gets better the more you learn.

1 week later
#6266 5 years ago
Quoted from Vino:

I haven’t read the thread, but the BOB sign is definitely in a wonky position for the player.
Did it somehow not pass a test at factory?

I believe it was positioned in that way to avoid balls getting lodged behind it.

1 week later
#6367 5 years ago

These are orange Titans fitted last week. Trough lights are great, worth the $. I also did the back box surrounding the screen and also colour changing leds top inside translite.
I have also posted for you on AFM.

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2 weeks later
#6481 5 years ago

Yup.....too much time.
I used a taxidermy wolf eye, it looks right thru you.

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2 weeks later
#6779 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Dialed In high scores.
LTG : )

Is that an on-site machine with normal high scores?

1 week later
#6887 5 years ago
Quoted from waynetrane:

Some sets are still available !
28,- $ inclusive shipping via envelope from germany.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I bought these from Wayne, excellent quality and value. Really finish the game off if you are into detail like me.

1 month later
#7406 5 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

When DI first came out, it had no scoop protector in the sim hole and i could hit the shot accurately with no rejects. It made for a much better DI experience. Now that every DI in the world has scoop protectors, i cannot hit the shot for the life of me. I’m wondering if anyone has removed their protector and how their sim hole has held up since? If i ever got this game, i would be very tempted to remove it.

I know I am going to kick the hornet nest here but here it goes.
My Cliffy kept warping after a good clean hit to the point it was raised and making the shot increadibly frustrating. The ball seemed to bounce off the rear metal forward onto the cliffy, pushing the front of the Cliffy up making it raised to the pf. I removed it several times and straightened it out but after a few good clean hits it was bent again.
I took the plung and removed the Cliffy, installing Mylar around the hole. The game is much more enjoyable to play and after a few hundred games, no sign of any damage at all.
I have taken the attitude that if I have a problem, I can put the Cliffy back on and not see the damage. Given I wouldn’t do that until I sell the game, who cares, I can’t see it during play and I enjoy the game way more.

#7410 5 years ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Did you also remove the cliffy for the phone scoop? I am getting A LOT of rejects and roll-outs from the phone scoop and it drives me crazy.

No, i didn’t remove it but it is flat still. I still get rejects but that’s just me not centering the hit.

3 weeks later
#7493 5 years ago

I have had this machine for a year and just tried adjusting magnet behaviour to Difficult. If you haven’t tried it, it’s hilarious.
Game Settings~Under Attack Mulitball~Multiball Magnet Behaviour~Difficult

#7510 5 years ago

Problem. The GI circuit that lights the left side lights and top led in the left out lane island isn’t working. I have checked the fuses which appear ok. I have taken out a working led board and swapped it out for all on the circuit, following the gray wires back. No result. Any ideas.

#7513 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The little surface mounted ones have an LED next to them. Green good, red back. Check power to the boards, be sure ethernet cables are on tight at LED board and HUB board.
LTG : )

Are these the leds that are meant to be green.

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#7519 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

No, those are your fuse LEDs on the I/O board and they are fine.
LTG : )

I am pointing to one of the boards not lighting. I have checked all the connections on the other pictured boards.

A603DC67-14C3-4738-8430-55B11E23B536 (resized).jpegA603DC67-14C3-4738-8430-55B11E23B536 (resized).jpegBECC96B2-5E77-4F07-A8AF-7A846F69D791 (resized).jpegBECC96B2-5E77-4F07-A8AF-7A846F69D791 (resized).jpeg
#7524 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

On that board red LED is a bad fuse.
LTG : )

What is the fix

#7531 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Surface mount fuse. Contact your distributor first then open a ticket.
LTG : )

Thanks for that.

#7540 5 years ago
Quoted from coz6:

It cost me around $60 for a board swap on my Hobbit, the problem if you can't do surface repairs is if you have a LED thats come unhooked and shorting to something you will blow the fuse again and then another $60, so like on old school repairs find the source of the issue before sending in the board for repair unless you really like doing repairs or board swaps they just don't blow.

I will check again. Thanks for the advice.

2 weeks later
#7613 4 years ago

Can anyone share their experience with returning their drones to JJP and getting repairs / replacements. Are the replacements robust on installation or are they best kept turned off. I have sent mine back from Australia and don’t really want to have to pay postage again. Thanks.

1 month later
#7858 4 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

That's an awesome score. It looks like you'll be stuck with that pic for awhile.

Yeh, I always wear a shirt now. Had a pic like that for a while. I got some strange looks. I think they wanted to sterilise the game before they played.

3 weeks later
#8017 4 years ago
Quoted from Kingpin22:

Finally was able to pick up a Dialed In LE! I’ve been chasing this title for over 2 years and the stars finally aligned Babee!!!!! Had a great game with settings set from previous owner with the SIM cards carrying over from ball to ball, this may be factory setting on the new 1.61 code. Not sure. What a masterpiece! Congratulations to the JJP team on creating such a fun pinball. This one will be bolted to the floor next to Funhouse and Roadshow!
I have a early build with playfield #67 and can’t get the backglass off, I don’t think the previous owner ever took it off in 2 years. Any tips greatly appreciated![quoted image]

My back glass wouldn’t open when I picked it up new. To avoid damaging the glass in future, when we opened it we removed the part of the lock that swings around. The glass sits in place nicely unlocked. Don’t want to scratch it from behind.

#8038 4 years ago

Don’t give a cr ap what other people score.

#8095 4 years ago
Quoted from kcZ:

x2... once I gave this game more of a chance, I want one.
I do wish there was some better art.

The art was something that took me a while to appreciate. After I got the shots under control I was amazed every time just how good the game is to shoot. It took quite a while to really have a close look the art, the game grabbed me that much. The detail and complexity takes time to take in.
I was sent a replacement trap door which after fitted I had the old one in my hand and the detail just in that is beautiful. That’s not even meant to be seen. When you have a moment, grab a beer and just look at it inch by inch. Even the tiny plastics on the upper play field have been thought through. The colours are deep and bright. Like the game as a whole, I think time needs to be spent looking at the level of detail. JJP team have spent some time on this machine, probably more than the accountants would have liked. The investment is in the game development not in paying for IP.

2 weeks later
#8268 4 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

OK, I've finally joined the club. I recently had a small collection which included , Harlem Globetrotters, Flight 2000, and Gottlieb Count-Down. yes, I modest old collection. Prior, I went through TAF, STTNG, JD, SW, BSD, T2, and many others. I sold all my old games and now have Dialed In (SE, but with Playfield protector) and Pinbot. Next week, I get my first NIB, Batman 66. In the picture, you can see where BM66 is going. I also attached a few shots of my modest "man cave." I have one "slot" left for a future pin. I'm leaning towards either Wonka or Deadpool. Question for team Dialed in...Can drones "spin time" be adjusted? Right now, it barely spins 1 second. I can check in test mode and see the color LEDs and top and bottom drones spin. However, center drone only lights, but doesn't spin in test mode. Maybe the new software update will do some more with drones?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The piano could go. That would make room for 2 more pins.

4 weeks later
#8806 4 years ago

Phone scoop coil inconsistent.
This problem started some time ago and got worse with the update it seemed, until it intermittently didn’t fire at all. Thought I had a switch problem but that worked in test most of the time. Long story short, turns out the broken end from the trap door had worked itself down the subway and was around the Phone entry switch area. I would have sworn I had found that bit when it broke, but obviously not. If you have had a broken subway door check your subway. It’s a real pain getting the thing out of that mech. It fits in tight.

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#8811 4 years ago
Quoted from pb_lawww:

My phone scoop coil is also inconsistent, since 1.60, better with new cpu, but I also miss a broken trap door flap, so I checked as you suggested, but did not find the broken flap... rebuild everything and all is the same like before...
where exactly was your flap in the mechanic?

Flap broke and replaced maybe a year ago. I think it started to affect the mech about 3 to 4weeks ago. Hard to tell as the code also affected the scoop coil.

#8826 4 years ago

It’s an Olympic conspiracy.

#8832 4 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Fixed the screens - you won’t beleive it! Story later
But now QED man won’t move?! What should I look for?
Thanks,
Neil.Check the two black screws as in the image. The shaft can rotate freely if these are not tight.

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#8833 4 years ago

Check the two black screws as in the image. If loose the shaft spins freely.

1 week later
#8939 4 years ago

Wish you would do those decals for Road Show. You DI ones are great.

#8959 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

They don't. Just meant to show you where to place the phone on the glass.
LTG : )

Or where not to rest a cigarette

2 weeks later
#9052 4 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

That's what 'dirty pool' is all about
Rob

Dirty pool is very rare. Diverting to the kicker happens a bit.

#9116 4 years ago
Quoted from Green-Machine:

Or you can take them off. I took mine off and the game is so much more enjoyable

Had my sim hole protector off for a couple of hundred games. Used Mylar in place. Plays much better, can actually make the shot. No wear, chips etc. Phone scoop left it on. If that bricks, you need to aim better.

1 month later
#9528 4 years ago
Quoted from Buellxb12r:

I have jjp pirates and it's lit way better. Unless I'm missing something the di is extremely dark. I had guests over for the weekend and they also asked why it was so dark. I intend on putting a few spotlights on but I am not familiar with how to hook them up for a jjp machine as I said in my post. Is there some sort of spotlight kit for jjp machines?

I had my left GI circuit not working for a while. It took me a while to notice because of so many other lights.

#9547 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

It's just a nudge game. If the diverter is down and you can get the ball to go through the hole, the pops are worth the same amount as super pops I believe.

I think acid rain mode requires left ramp to pops for 5 hits? Bumping required.

1 month later
#9705 4 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

My ball gets stuck in the Lite Drone lane constantly. It didn't do this when I first got my game, but has been doing this for a couple weeks now. About 75% of the balls get stuck. I thought it might be the switch so I adjusted it down a little, but it is not the switch. I can lower the switch manually and the ball doesn't drop. It is just touching the post and the sling rubber. I tried stretching the sling rubber so it was thinner next to the lane, but this didn't seem to help. Any ideas?
Thanks[quoted image]

Is the rubber properly seated.

1 week later
#9756 4 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

But then you would be lighting it too often. I really think a software solution is in order. I don't see any reason for them not to do it.

There is always an element of chance to pinball. Harden up.

#9793 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

As an aside...I really don't like that spider GI light. Its the only GI that is completely exposed and shining in your eye. I just disconnected it under the PF.

I removed the spider from above the ramp entrance and stuck it over that GI. Sign looks better and stops the glare.

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2 weeks later
#9848 4 years ago

Maybe a good idea or maybe not. Connect the output from DI to a guitar amp input.
What would happen.

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1 week later
#9859 4 years ago

Anyone heard anything about Pindemption / Timed game for DI.
Timed game would be great.

#9873 4 years ago
Quoted from Edster:

Yea thanks. Never thought about playing with the magnet strength. Will give it a shot. I adjusted the upper flipper and it makes the lock shot like butter.

Try adjusting multiball magnet behaviour. That’s fun.

1 month later
#10087 4 years ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

How is the spare part situation looking for dialed in?
Do you think it will be possible to get spare quantum theatre etc in a couple of years?
(thinking of buying a machine)

No need to think. Just buy it. The game is that good.

1 month later
#10320 3 years ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

I did put mylar on it, just... don't. I found the rubber removal of the bottom pointed post to be way better and safer.

I took off the protector and put on Mylar over a year ago. Played a ton of games with no wear. Left the rubber on. Game plays great. I can’t imagine the game was meant to play like it did with the Cliffy on.

2 weeks later
#10452 3 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I did the back cover on a fleece blanket.[quoted image]

I bet that NASCAR is nervous with the next JJP game release.

#10453 3 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Here ya go.
[quoted image]

looks like the protective plastic is still on that.

1 week later
#10515 3 years ago

Any updates on JJP internet connectivity progress.

1 week later
#10575 3 years ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Put it in the positive column, then. I learned one thing: nobody can tell you what number you should use. You have to find it for yourself. I've tried different people's numbers here and none worked. Tinker with it, you'll get it.

I found it inconsistent adjusting in test. The magnet gets hot. For me, I found a range of too high and too low, then stopped and came back maybe the next day and made minor adjustments without going outside the previous numbers. Keep playing inside those numbers but only try a couple of times and come back the next day. It took a frustrating amount of time. Don’t put the glass back on until it is consistent. When you are close, just try it for a while in game. I never got it to work the same in test as in game so test never showed the number, just when I was close. Don’t give up. The game is no where near as good if it’s not just right.

#10576 3 years ago

Just remembered, I ended up swapping the Drone magnet with the Theatre magnet as it was more flush with the pf. That made a tremendous difference.

3 weeks later
#10706 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Actually enough of the flap remains that it sits on the wood before the beveled opening, so I’m hoping that won’t be a problem. I took enough shots at the orbit, both slow and fast, that it seems fine. I guess I’ll see how it goes, but maybe I’ll call JJP to see about getting a replacement just in case. I don’t have a way to put rivets in and no experience doing so, so it may be getting the whole contraption.

I have been running with a broken flap for hundreds of games without issue. Go with it. Could be ok.

3 weeks later
#10808 3 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Mine has factory protector too but it hits those plastic poles the side or just hits the back and bounces out what gives !

When I first got mine I bent the scoop down a bit, protector still installed on scoop. Not sure if that is why mine doesn’t reject like described, but just thought I would share.
Persevere with this and the Theatre magnet. Once this game functions as intended it is simply legendary.

#10811 3 years ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

Thanks for advice should I remove the Mylar around the magnet ?

Yup. Must do. I took off the Theatre (and upper pf) to do it carefully. Good opportunity to give it a good clean up there.

#10831 3 years ago
Quoted from Dr-pin:

Strange. I've had it for three weeks and has only got one letter to go.
Starting to find all the shots, the biggest problem is that i really dont know why, i'm struggling to find the meaning????

If you mean the meaning of the game? You find a phone with powers and you run around causing havoc with it launching disasters. They are trying to get it back. Complete the letters and you cause utter mayhem. The goal.

#10869 3 years ago

When working, in most situations it will fling the ball back setting a shot for the lock ramp. Really cool when working and when your game doesn’t do this it’s rubbish. Mine DID NOT work the same in test as game. It took a really long time to get it right - weeks.
I had to start at a number someone else was using, try -90 as above. Play several games, if it’s not working (probably won’t) move it say 5 either way, play several games. Repeat, Keep moving in the same direction. You will work out if you are getting closer or further away from the magic fling back. Write down your results. If you moved the wrong way, repeat in reverse. It’s frustrating but worth the time. The game doesn’t function properly if this isn’t working. This process didn’t work in test for me. Don’t know why. If your game isn’t flinging back properly you are missing a great feature but more importantly the flow is lost.

1 month later
#10997 3 years ago

Just got through Armageddon, (didn’t complete it) with out losing the ball, the game stopped as normal but must have crashed. Didn’t load the ball to restart, didn’t do a ball search. Took off the glass. The only thing responding was the ball in shooter lane switch. Restarted the game. Went to test and checked ball lock Optos and trough, all fine. Other switches seemed fine. Hope this doesn’t happen again, I was at about 7.5 and had a funny name to put in HS. Damn.

#10999 3 years ago

Yup 1.73

1 week later
#11040 3 years ago
Quoted from Doctor6:

Hell, I think it's the best game I've ever played!
I absolutely love my dialed in, but I'd pick hobbit over it 100 times out of 100.

Hobbit is great to play last in a session. It wears you down and rewards you. Makes your eyeballs bounce for about ten mins after you have finished.

1 week later
#11064 3 years ago

I doubt they could afford to build this machine again for a price the market would accept. Good buy.

#11081 3 years ago
Quoted from IronMan8Bit:

Thinking about joining the club! Anything I need to look at specifically when buying a used one? There are a few out here with 1k plays how much does that impact the sale? Do balls, flipper rubbers etc need to be replaced?
Any help is appreciated!

Replacing the balls should be done every couple of hundred games. Replacing the rubbers is an opportunity to make the machine your own. Change out the colours to how you like it. I used mostly Titans. Change the flipper rubbers frequently for a change.
Check the report for errors. Also do a device check. Tests>devices . Stuff like the Theatre ball flick back can be adjusted.
I can’t see this game made again or anything like it. There are too many mechs in it to be a machine sold profitably at a reasonable price. The day will come when people will look back at opportunity lost.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#11085 3 years ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Or you can not worry and enjoy the game. I have a friend who is still routing machines from the 90s with original balls, and the PFs are just fine. That was when the clear was 90% thinner... I examine balls now and then. If they have a gouge, I'll replace them. I'd put my new machines up against anyone else's. They look great!

Carbon steel balls will resist becoming magnetised better than ordinary steel balls. They also can be subject to denting. If you want odd shaped balls in your machine that’s fine, I like round ones.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
1 week later
#11182 3 years ago
Quoted from Kenswift:

I am so not handy. It was one of my hesitations I’m getting a pin. I read everyone on here just fixing stuff left and right and I’m a bit concerned that I will be out of my element.

You will be handy soon.

1 week later
#11313 3 years ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

I decided to jump on a DI now because I have a feeling that the market for the game as at its bottom and we will see a pretty good bump in prices as these become increasingly harder to find. There are definitely NIB games available from distributors but I can’t imagine this ever going back on the line with GnR and then toy story.

The cost of production would be prohibitive under the new management objectives of making a profit.

#11355 3 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

Ok I get it now. Is it always a 2 ball multiball or does it go up with each round ?
I bought DI instead of Guns and Roses because I wasn't into the multiball frenzy but I wouldn't mind one once in a while !

When you learn the shots, there’s plenty of multiball. Not only that but you can have a beer when you lock a ball. Pretty sure the the ball number increase with each multi ball. You can get 3 balls in the physical lock.

#11428 3 years ago

It sets a great fast shot at lock. Like a pitch in a batting cage.

3 weeks later
#11554 3 years ago

You don’t necessarily play this game for multi ball as the objective. It’s the modes dude, it’s the modes.

#11572 3 years ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

The theme is a tragedy. It's a hodge-podge of good and horrible ideas that don't fit well together at all. I avoid BOB modes because they are irritating af. While I do like the dozen or so 'armageddon phone-scoop modes', the game deserved better. For the life of me, I don't know why people try and defend it.

I guess the non believers gotta get to like this game as it will be about the only game that could be streamed in future if things progress as in “A pinball podcast” ep “Another blow coming to pinball streamers”. It you are not aware of the changes I urge you look at it. Changes could affect broadcast of others content. It could be very interesting as Depeche Mode could have a Copyright on Silence (Enjoy the Silence) ha.
The future could be like the Goodies episode “pirate radio” , and now for “ a walk in the Black Forest” and now, “Dialed In”.

4 weeks later
#11632 3 years ago
Quoted from Kenz:

What’s the best treatment to get faint scratches removed/blended out of a lockdown bar on a LE?

Use the same method as car paint. Try polish first, if that doesn’t work try cut and polish followed by polish.

2 weeks later
#11678 3 years ago

Maybe your upper right flipper coil is set a bit too powerful.

1 month later
#11767 3 years ago

Check the Theatre kicks the ball back to the upper flipper when it’s supposed to. It doesn’t always drop to the bottom flippers if working.

#11770 3 years ago

Do you have the latest code. The QED guy should in some circumstances interact with the ball after release.

1 week later
#11792 3 years ago

It doesn’t fling the ball during subway and virtual drops. It flings pretty much the rest of the time.

2 months later
#11895 2 years ago

It’s a ggg ghost

3 weeks later
#11917 2 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Can I still buy a Dialed In from JJP or is this out of production? I am shopping for my first modern pin and seriously considering this game if I can find one.

There are NIBs in Australia if you can wait for delivery.

2 weeks later
#11935 2 years ago
Quoted from Niggle1981:

I recently bought a DI LE. The 2 switches on the ramp either side of the Betty diverter seem to be installed back to front ie. the switch that should be before the diverter is after and the after switch is before when you compare the positions to the graphical diagram on the screen. Do I need to physically need to swap the switches around or can they be reassigned in the settings? Thanks.

Mine was like that.

#11938 2 years ago

Not yet

1 week later
#11971 2 years ago

I pulled the protector off the Sim scoop and added mylar to the area. Much easier to hit now. Feels like this is how it should be. Still difficult but doable.

1 month later
#12053 2 years ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

Somehow it’s weird that updates are rare for DI compared to other JJP pinball machines

The games great, what else do you expect. The games long finished. The fact they develop the updates for previous models is a credit to them. That’s a cost. Any other industry the consumer is going to pay however they structure it for future development.

1 week later
#12076 2 years ago

It’s tied to ball lock some how. Sometimes ball lock raises the arm.

#12084 2 years ago

Listen to Lloyd, you gotta get the magnet flinging the ball backwards. If that’s not working your game isn’t playing as intended and kinda rubbish. This makes the game, if you don’t get it working you will probably end up selling one of the greatest games ever.

#12099 2 years ago
Quoted from palmab03:

Mine mainly happened on the EMP mode, which was a nightmare cause you could never predict if the EMP Would throw it or let it drain. It also was annoying to have it catch whenever a side ramp shot was needed. I just turned mine off completely with the settings just now, and it seems like a helluva lot better.

EMP mode does drop the ball not sling it.

1 week later
#12165 2 years ago

The Drone rubber hit from the left flipper almost always goes in the sim hole. Just a bit later than the right orbit. Not as hard as it looks. Gotta relax on the shot.

1 month later
#12193 2 years ago

Yup. On the SIM only. Makes a huge difference. Much more gettable but still not easy. Used Mylar instead. Phone, gotta shoot straighter.

1 week later
#12297 2 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

I have never seen so many di le game for sale,I bought mine after selling the first one,I hope there is no regrets!

Unfortunately there are a lot of people who can’t get the theatre magnet working properly or even know how it is meant to work. I would sell mine if it wasn’t working properly as it is pivotal to the flow of the game and ruleset. I persisted and got it working perfectly. Yes, it was a challenge. When this game is set up well, the theme is not even the slightest thought in your mind.

2 weeks later
#12395 2 years ago
Quoted from TOLLS:

When working, in most situations it will fling the ball back setting a shot for the lock ramp. Really cool when working and when your game doesn’t do this it’s rubbish. Mine DID NOT work the same in test as game. It took a really long time to get it right - weeks.
I had to start at a number someone else was using, try -90 as above. Play several games, if it’s not working (probably won’t) move it say 5 either way, play several games. Repeat, Keep moving in the same direction. You will work out if you are getting closer or further away from the magic fling back. Write down your results. If you moved the wrong way, repeat in reverse. It’s frustrating but worth the time. The game doesn’t function properly if this isn’t working. This process didn’t work in test for me. Don’t know why. If your game isn’t flinging back properly you are missing a great feature but more importantly the flow is lost.

#12396 2 years ago

You can also do above in test, then try in game. Mine was different in test and game. Really frustrating but must fix.

1 month later
#12494 2 years ago

Get the light right. This happens with the cabinet art.

069570EA-F9D7-41A3-B846-268D4818C41C (resized).jpeg069570EA-F9D7-41A3-B846-268D4818C41C (resized).jpegB2183052-10FB-4E9C-AC8F-0D11790E5CFC (resized).jpegB2183052-10FB-4E9C-AC8F-0D11790E5CFC (resized).jpeg
3 weeks later
#12546 2 years ago

“Theatre Magnet” The ball shouldn’t be released SDTM from the theatre. Only the subway and virtual drop targets release the ball back down towards the flippers and the QED guy should move to stop SDTM. The QED guy movement was a later software release, so check you have the latest software. Most of the time the ball should be slung backwards towards the upper flipper setting a shot for the upper ramp. If this isn’t happening you need to adjust the theatre magnet timing. There are several posts on how to fix this. If this isn’t working your game isn’t playing as it should. This is why the game is sold and undervalued. Fix this and you have one of the greatest games ever made. If you don’t, you WILL sell it and miss out.

1 month later
#12618 2 years ago
Quoted from TwilightZone:

Thanks for the reply.
Unfortunately, JJP charge an arm and a leg for shipping to Canada. Buddy had a part sent and it was $20 in shipping for a plastic piece. If I can see what they provide, I may be able to get a buddy to 3D print one for me.
Thanks

The is a number of discussions and alternative solutions in this thread. It was an early issue and before the plastic was sent out to resolve the issue from JJP there were some good ideas. There are options.

#12620 2 years ago

The plastic from JJP would however be the best.

#12631 2 years ago

You won’t get better value for money. Bless the ignorant and followers of popular opinion.

#12643 2 years ago

The last update is for wifi, Scorbit and a few minor fixes. Gotta do that surely.

#12647 2 years ago

Kardashian pinball. Multiball, a close friend looses his

1 week later
#12676 2 years ago

Mezel mods have them listed

#12691 2 years ago
Quoted from ClarkKent:

Poll: If your trapdoor flap has been broken off - do you have a playfield protector or not?

No protector

1 week later
#12732 2 years ago

Check you have the latest code. The QED guys should intercept the ball on the way down on the rare occasion that it is released back down. Mostly it should flick the ball back up around to the top flipper for a ramp shot. If you have latest code, you may have to dial in the magnet behaviour. There are posts on how to do this. It requires patience. Check the magnet for damaged Mylar. There are posts on removing that.

1 week later
#12764 2 years ago

Lighting of the room affects my camera performance. If there is outside light from the side it doesn’t seem to capture a face. Low light without any single bright light source it works just fine.

2 weeks later
#12799 1 year ago

Invest in a demagnetiser. Money well spent.

#12801 1 year ago

I just got a cheap one on eBay.

1 month later
#12875 1 year ago

Update your code. It will stop that happening with the latest. If that’s up to date you need to adjust the magnet setting. There are many good posts on how to do that.

4 weeks later
#12920 1 year ago

Just checked my SIM area, thought I would post what works well for me. About 2000 games in as is after removing the metal protector and dropping the RHS rubber. This is still the first mylar application. Thought it would be due to be replaced but looks fine.
Plays perfectly with this setup on my machine. Still hard shot but not beyond reasonable expectations.

6AF4B319-CEE2-4083-B4A0-F3937C28BF97 (resized).jpeg6AF4B319-CEE2-4083-B4A0-F3937C28BF97 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#12921 1 year ago

Just replaced the original battery, thought I would share the voltage was 2.90V.
Have put it off too long and sure I’m not the only one. The fix for the battery not working finally got to me.

1 month later
#13003 1 year ago

Drone topper that takes off.

7 months later
#13244 1 year ago

I am trying to track down a Trapdoor spring. 13-007019-00
It is referenced previously in this thread but no response. It is the same spring in Getaway apparently.
Freddy’s has them but wondered if there any other options.

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