The game is in many ways a pastiche of past Lawlor games (as Road Show was described). You have the Whirlwind ramp and TZ camera shot under the NGG side ramp. You have the idol from RBION (albeit a different design) on the opposite side of the playfield. You have a similar kickback setup to that on NGG. A similar feed to the pops as on Nascar. A Funhouse skill shot just facing the opposite way. And so on and so on. There is even a Pinbot (not Lawlor I know) style playfield with no switches on it.

The game is headed into production in the next few months. Once they start shipping, you will still have time to order one. No need to risk anything now.

Also, the pricing model is different than WOZ and Hobbit. On DI you can put 250$ down for an LE but you don't pay it off until its ready to ship, and you can get your 250$ back instead. There's no paying along before the game is built.

Keith went with low scoring on WOZ as a change of pace and it seems to have stuck. I don't care too much as long as the scoring is relatively well balanced.

Get some silicone grease and lubricate the pivot point, move the door up and down a few times by operating the mechanism by hand, then after you work it in a bit, add a touch more grease if needed and then the door will drop much more smoothly. This has generally fixed it for those who have opened tickets on the subject.

Stern Spider-man

Have fun with it. My wife and I have an LE here and LOVE it.

Several folks have had pinball condition related issues, not just you.

I have Clliffy's ordered too.

Lower the kick out VUK coil power. I did and while it can still be inconsistent, ball control and reaction time go up.

For the start button wire, you have the choice of normally open or normally closed (one tab or the other, basically). If the start button works in test the way you have it wired, it's correct. On the opposite tab, the button would show as active all the time in dedicated switch test (box would stay green).

Nice write up, Sir!

Number 8 torx driver, remove the screws around the jersey jack marquee (have someone hold the speaker panel as it will want to drop without the screws in place), gently move the speaker panel down (wires will still be attached so not too far) and then remove the backglass. Bend out the lock tongue a bit and then reinstall everything and that will make the lock work better.

tests - device tests - theater test
-90 to -100

The four lights on the apron are a holdover from before the phone connection went to its current Bluetooth configuration. On the prototype games there was a sensor on the glass and the apron that you placed the phone over, then the LEDs would blink and then lock on solidly to show you that the phone was synced up. The sensors and concept were scrapped but the LEDs remain.

Code to add topper lighting support for the CEs is coming very soon and Expo is next week...

Really? Our DI is setup that way and doesn’t do that.

1EF88662-79CA-438E-971F-99748DD5A183 (resized).jpeg

Combos is not total combos made its number of combos made in sequence - and think Demo man - yellow arrow lights next hittable shots with yellow arrows then they flash and time out

Chris sighting!! Congrats on 132 my friend. Why no topper? It will have lighting support soon. Are you going to Expo, IAAPA or Free Play Florida? I’ll be at all three again this year. Can’t wait for you to publish dvd volume four!

and CE's have exclusive dongles that identify them as CEs like LE and 75th WOZ and Smaug, LE and BASE Hobbits

Playfield protector is the full playfield plastic one the same way WOZ and hobbit had as an option. Sim hole and phone scoop get metal protectors automatically every DI built until the end. I think the wizard mode is achievable imho.

Yes, installed at the factory. Cliffy has been way behind on DI sets owing to the huge demand. He has a $100 or so full set with a tee shirt, inlane protectors for ball drops, both scoops and shooter lane. Just email Cliff directly and he'll take your order that way, but the factory now has both scoops covered.

If and only if you pass the $100 full set with everything level I believe. I got his white one anyway with my stuff.

Code is testing here at expo - ted said in about two weeks I think

Marvin / when you roll the drone inlane and immediately hit the drone standup the magnet locks the ball snd finishes your drone lights

1.45 testing at expo
Releasing very soon

No it’s a traditional update just like always. I think you’re missing his point.

Yes. When you hit the drone standup when lit or complete the drone lights to light the mystery package at the theater they spin.

DI CE has a topper
Standard has the flash bulb for selfies
LE does not have one

Adjust the switch down a bit. It’s finicky but I adjusted mine okay.

It's not yet released. When it is it will be up on the site.

It's in the device test - theater test menu

The double pop is normal sound board startup

When released it will be 1.50 now. Soon very soon.

They aren’t printed yet

Why should I spoil it for you?

Correct it’s on purpose

You can also bend up the end of the micro switch slightly just like you can to adjust any micro switch to make it close a touch sooner than it does now.
Silicone to lubricate the pivot point on the trap door, and make sure Phillips screw on back plate of small trip coil bracket hasn’t loosened too much preventing door from closing. After applying silicone, work mechanism by hand a few times open and close and you’re all set.

Level - pat lawlor wants the top of the bubble just touching the second line on the level. Not scientific but that’s how he says the game should be pitched.

You had a support case just the same, only you didn’t make it yourself.

Email cliff directly that’s how he takes orders.

Make sure the rear button housing is straight in and clicked on firmly so that the arms hit the microswitch button straight and cleanly

Mechs are identical but performance is different owing to they way they are duty cycled (if you will). Hence the adjustable strengths.

The ribbon cable connecting the phone monitor to the board that controls it could be bad. There have been a few bad ones. It doesn’t necessarily mean that the monitor itself is bad.

Yes. 1.50 full install first, then 1.57 delta on top.

Tests - device tests - theater magnet

-80 to -90 but your mileage may vary.

Yes do a full install - full installs start from power off, then the first thing the game looks for on power up is the usb stick.

Pindemption doesn’t exist yet for DI. It does for Hobbit and WOZ but not yet for DI. I'm editing my original post here correcting a mistake I made. I don't believe that Pindemption is in in the near future for DI. Sorry about that, I had thought it was. My bad.

V1.61 on JJP site
Delta install, must ride on top of 1.60 full install

Reseat everything - all the USB cables, everything, see if it boots. If not, unplug the USB cables from the motherboard (leave the vga cables and the security dongle)and see if it will boot that way. If it does, power off, plug one usb in, power up and see, then lather, rinse, repeat. If it won’t boot with no usb cables, unplug the aux graphics card from the board, see if it will boot that way.

During EMP strike it is supposed to behave that way (which is why many players try to avoid starting that mode); at other times it is supposed to throw the ball around the top loop ala Shadow.

Station has 4 optos for ball lock positions so it keeps balls locked.

DI machines haven’t been produced lately, so depending on where you got it from and when it was made, the software version may vary.

Email [email protected] and request a ground loop isolator. Easy install, no soldering or anything like that; it will knock out the static noise.

It’s on a big pivot arm. Unlatch on each side, then pull forward and pivot. Do this with game power OFF

Spot on exactly correct.

If you have the older thicker protector and want the newer thinner Cliffy JJP will send it to you.

In the theater test, adjust the setting to -90 or so and then test it in a game. You’ll find your best setting.

Page C-32 in the manual item 8
83-003104-04
Thread cutting screw

Loosen the torx screws up there on the speaker panel, there are two of them, then you can more easily manipulate the lock if it won't unlock all the way. Worst case, have someone hold the speaker panel and take those screws out altogether but remember that the speaker panel will still be attached by the wires and that it will want to fall down without those screws so have someone help you.

It can get knocked out of alignment. When down, the flat spot on the pivot arm needs to be bisected exactly by the front edge of the trip coil flap. If it’s too far one way or the other, push the small bracket to line it up where you need.

Ask him what software version he’s running

That’s the trip coil that lets the door drop down
The big coil lifts the door up

Does the thing operate smoothly if you do it by hand? Pull the big plunger down into the blue coil - does the door raise and latch? Then push the trip plate - does it drop cleanly?

Okay check the fuse then - see the page D-114 in the manual below

Annotation 2019-06-28 215023 (resized).png

If neither coil fires in test with the coin door closed or the high power interlock switch pulled out then check the fuses noted on the I/O board behind the big monitor in the backbox.

If you have a meter you can read the voltage at the coil lugs. Voltage should be present at the PINK solid wire where it is soldered to the coil lug.

Check the headphone harness at the motherboard end. Remove metal cover, headphone harness plugs into bottom right corner of board.

Turn the connector around 180 degrees

I'm right here. Did you check the other end of the harness at the motherboard end? Is it plugged in securely there?

Lloyd has a good idea which is to drop something into the sleeve so it cannot open as far.

Wonka has the same thing but it’s off by default. If you set wonka to allow zero bonus you get cute clips instead of the default minimum one wonka bar.

Looks like 1.70 is a delta that can go on top of 1.60 full install

Beautiful work as always, Kevin, thank you

It will be a delta on top of 1.60 and officially it’s 1.71 going up soon.

1.71 is up

Try the other mirror - eu or us whichever you’re not using

You can purchase drones from JJP should you wish to do so.

When you get new drones you get a note directing you to upgrade to 1.60. If you don’t then you can’t get the drones replaced after they fail. 1.60 is the first software version that cuts the drone use down and protects the motors. If I might make a suggestion - and you do what you want of course - I would get new drones and then turn them off in the software if you want to keep running 1.57 this way they won’t fail. 1.71 is out now of course.

Except that the engineers designed the cover and that’s the fix.

NO DI machines built after 2018 so far

Normal

SO far, yes

I think the idea behind the SE having it may have been that SE models would be most likely to be the ones in a dark bar or location.

I have mine at -90 I think

Sometimes it should hold and fling, at other times - during EMP strike is one example, it should hold and then drop.

cover bracket lower left wireform

sorry banzai

Thanks Lloyd

I’ll send you an email if you pm me

There’s a throw delay setting in the theater test.

JJP has them

Welcome Mr. Noob - If you are familiar with the WMS game The Shadow, the sanctum ball lock at the top center has a magnet that behaves the same way. The magnet catches the ball, pauses, briefly releases the ball and then engages the magnet again quickly so that the ball flings around and up to the right corner and around and down depending on how clean the fling was; therefore you want to go in to TESTS - DEVICE TESTS - THEATER and look at your setting. The number represents the "delay" if you will - how long is the pause prior to the fling. You can play with the numbers until you get yours just right. I think mine is at -90.
Now be aware - the magnet is NOT always supposed to fling the ball. This confuses people into believing that a perfectly functioning magnet is messed up. The best example is EMP STRIKE disaster mode. The magnet is designed to catch - hold - release and drop the ball back to the center flippers. NOTE: Later software updates - be SURE to run 1.73 if you can that is the latest - saw Ted and the guys change the timing of the moving QED man so that he can deflect a ball headed SDTM from one of these magnet drops. It does not ALWAYS do it but it works fairly well. Another example - say the drone mystery package collect is lit on the small theater monitor. Well at that time, depending on whatever other chaos the game is dealing with, the game wants to display the animation in the theater for whatever you collected. Thus the hold time is longer. And if multiball or something else is happening, the fling may get delayed OR - let's say you happen to also have the virtual inline drop targets running or the train bash where the animation shows the ball trying to bash through the subway doors (you get the idea), there may not ever be a fling or the other steel balls may crash through and knock the ball just off the magnet and then center drain warning. So this game, which is centered on chaos, is, believe it or not, often chaotic. The magnet behavior becomes intuitive after you play the game for awhile. The best example I can come up with is the center ramp bank door on Pat Lawlor's game Monopoly. The bank door basically has four little optos shining through a clear insert to the hood above the door mechanism. When the door partially opened from a fast ball strike or a mistimed hit where the door wanted to open or close but the pinball got there, the door would occasionally hang out in the nebula, not quite closed but certainly not open so you could make the ramp shot. I couldn't tell customers exactly when the door would correct itself or do a quick open close open to get itself into position but on my game at home it became intuitive like I mentioned exactly when the game would do whatever it would do. You just knew it as a player but could not have written it down.
So that's the center magnet. The animations are top notch too in the theater monitor. Granted I am somewhat biased.
The flipper rubbers are the red ones you mentioned.
Pitch is an individual feel thing to me but Mr. Lawlor recommends that the tip of the bubble just kiss the second line on the bubble level mounted on the game. Side to side lean is exceedingly important on DI (and most games) so get your torpedo level and get it right.
Hope that helps.

Missing a color
Walk through all led test color by color you’ll be missing blue I think

White is not a color per se with rgb LEDs what the game does to try to make white is crank all three colors to max
So you’re missing green. How long have you had the game ?

from nib ?
First owner ?
Pm me

Maybe harness pinched on something shorting out around QED guy

Thanks but in actuality it could very easily have gone without being said. I’m not into self aggrandizing or shilling - well I am but not right now - but we finally have 4 fantastic tech support people after a long (you have NO idea) stretch where it was just 2 or whatever. Well three awesome guys and Barry (hi boss!!). Kidding of course. You guys know Lloyd and me and some know Barry and many know Ken from the NJ factory who is back on the bridge where he belongs. We ride together at last. That’s us - so what - but Four weeks ago I got my first tour of Elk Grove the new factory and spent a week as I always do at the start of new game production. l Learn and work the line and take a game home to use for tech support - you all know the drill - so every time it’s been in Lakewood where I’m from but this time it was green leaf ave of course. All I can say is that the ownership group has more awards on its shelves than I have shelves. The money they invested and then holy crow the talent and sheer strength of the people in that building my word. I like being a very small cog but now I’m in a whole different machine. Poised for something that’s what JJP is, on the cusp of the brink of the leading edge of never ending run-on sentences. We are at least that any way.
So thanks I try hard. Lloyd and those around me are aces you all know that much. Going forward I am STOKED. Steve

Normal 12v

Pink jack - it goes into the pink jack that is the input.

Sure - not every single brand works 100 pct but are you saying that both behave the same way?

Remove wire coming from motherboard into pink jack (3.5mm mic-style cable). Plug wire from Motherboard into female port on filter. Plug male cable coming from filter into pink jack. That's it.

Not all filters are equal. I’m taking out the noise sometimes it will black some of the desired sound too.

Reseat every audio cable you have. The static on the front end sounded more intense than most I’ve heard.

the cables going to the sound board of any kind, make sure the outbound green jack on the motherboard is securely in place. Slide the male cable that is going into the pink jack out about 1/16 and see if the sound gets better.

Not necessarily. Are you getting any switch errors? The upper left flipper doesn't exist on this game but does in the harness so it looks like its wires are tied off.