(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

7 years ago


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23 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

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Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (7 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (7 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (6 years ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (6 years ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by PinMonk (6 years ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (6 years ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (6 years ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (6 years ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (6 years ago)


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#370 6 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

I hope they update some of the music and call outs.

What's there now is within newscast/disaster theme, so I'm not sure how they could make it better without breaking the cohesion of all the things that make Dialed In feel and sound like it does.

#372 6 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

I don't think some decent Jackpot callouts would hurt the cohesion.

Within the game's framework of newscaster and announcer, what kind of callouts would you call "decent"?

#380 6 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

Certainly glad I moved the "Visit Bob's when flashing" sign to be at a better angle.

That (better) orientation creates a potential ball trap. I did something similar, but faced it with a piece of clear so an airball couldn't get caught there.

#386 6 years ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

What playfield angle are you using? 6.5, 6, less?

I think it's cool that Dialed In comes preset to 6.5 degrees with all levelers down. Out of the box, it's the "right" angle.

#389 6 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Yeah I've never tried this but I keep hearing it. Is it true because JJP set up info does not claim it.

I was claimed at the launch of the machine by JJP.

#401 6 years ago
Quoted from mrofnoc:

The phone scoop protector made it harder on mine, and even worse as the protector deformed from ball hits. It's worse than it looks in the pic as the top is dented which you can't see real well in the pic. The right side got it worse which I blamed on the mini post, could be wrong, but replaced that post with sleeve like the one to the left of the scoop and removed the protector. Much better now.
The ball kept getting hung up on the skill shot protector, so it had to go as well.
Sim hole protector is great and so is the one for the trough.
No clue what that other one in the kit was for. Shaped like a V and maybe 2 inches long.

The V shaped one was probably two stuck together. They're protectors for the inlane rollovers where the ball drops in from the ramps.

Did it look like this:
http://littleshopofgames.com/product/universal-rollover-protector/

It looks like the left side of the phone protector in your pic was tweaked by tightening the post that goes into it too much. Might have torqued the whole protector just enough to make shots harder. It shouldn't have that much of an effect when it's installed.

#404 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

If your game isn't steep enough, the ball can get hung up on the skill shot protector. I set my game at 7 and occasionally it will still gets stuck, but a slight nudge sets it free.

If you adjust it *just right* it will never get stuck. It took me over a week of adjusting to find the sweet spot. It involved bending it back so the wire wasn't so vertical, and then centering it left to right (by loosening the switch, adjusting, re-tightening). Lots of trial and error, but hasn't stuck there for over a month, and it was doing it every 6-8 games.

#405 6 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

Been playing location DI for awhile now. More airballs than I expected, some already mentioned here. Sometimes (got it twice in the same game) the electricity guy on a stick, when it is all the way over to the right, will impede the ball from rolling down the wireform habitrail to return to the left flipper. The lightning bolt sticks out over that wireform and stops the ball. Strange. Gets cleared when the electro guy moves during ball search. Could have easily been averted with a simple design change.

The lightning he's holding is installed backwards. It doesn't do that if it's installed correctly. There's even a paper that comes with the new machine warning of installing it wrong and showing how it's supposed to be done. Someone didn't read instructions at that location.

#407 6 years ago
Quoted from KozMckPinball:

The operator has to install a playfield toy himself? Not done at the factory? Just want to get my story straight when I alert the operator.

The QED guy's there, installed on the track from the factory, but the lightning piece isn't in his hands, you have to snap it in. Takes like 2 seconds. But if you don't read the instructions, some people install it backwards or upside down, leading to the issues you're talking about.

#421 6 years ago
Quoted from mrofnoc:

Not that one. See pic.

Oh, that's for the right side of the shooter lane. You MUST use a clamp when installing so it doesn't slip out of alignment after installation.

#422 6 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Anyone worked out an anti-ball trap for the right side of the left Ride Train ramp? Have had about 500 games played and it's the most common spot an air ball gets stuck. Can't shake it loose either.

Where? (Picture?) I can't visualize where you're talking about it getting stuck.

#423 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Tests - Devices - Theater. I set mine at 90
LTG : )

Negative 90, right?

#424 6 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Another small question, should the left orbit shot go around smoothly and quickly? On my machine it almost always enters the skill shot or the pops. I've got the right flipper at maximum strength but feels like it might not be strong enough.

Smooth on the one here. You shouldn't have to have the flipper at max to get the machine to work right. I think I only have the one here set 2 over stock.

Do you have an iphone? Super slo-mo recording is really helpful tracking down problems. Take the glass off and record the ball going into and coming out of (at the top) the left orbit and see if it's smooth of wobbling back and forth from wall to wall.

#426 6 years ago
Quoted from mrofnoc:

I noticed you have post sleeves on both sides of the phone scoop. Mine had a mini post on the right side but changed it to be like yours. Did yours come that way or did you change it?

The one here is white post sleeve on the left and mini post with a rubber on the right, not two sleeved posts. Build date on this one is 5/17.

#453 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Outstanding.
LTG : )

I dunno, in a lineup with Ghostbusters Premium and Batman SLE, it's earning about even with Ghostbusters Prem. That's not *bad*, but I thought it would do better. I really like it, but at this location it's at, the love is about 50/50. Although when someone gets selfie mode for the first time, it's funny when the people with them realize what's happening - they usually crack up and/or go nuts.

#463 6 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

I'd say that Dialed In isn't drawing that many casuals...most play is coming from the regulars (who are loving it).

Pretty much the same here. Casuals seem confused by it, which I think is weird, but I've seen it happen quite a bit. I even heard one player say "that one sucks" compared to Batman '66 next to it, which was...surprising. Veteran players seem to be the ones playing Dialed In the most. That said, DI is neck and neck with Ghostbusters Prem for earnings, pretty consistently.

#465 6 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Neck and neck with Ghostbusters current earnings? Or GB earnings back when it was new?

Week to week currently. GB is one of the best earners, and Dialed In is basically matching, not outperforming. The route I help with didn't get GB Prem until late Nov because of the playfield drama. Aerosmith Prem was an earnings dud and is already gone, just like Hobbit (which I think was hobbled because of the popping problem that made it irritating to play). KISS Prem and Metallica Prem both do very well on location (KISS earnings destroyed Aerosmith here).

#469 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Me to. I am about to pick up 3 Sterns to put at a brewery. GOT, GB, WWE.. Hope they do well..

GoT Premium does all right on location, but be sure to set it to casual mode. General public is REALLY confused when it asks them to choose a house right off the bat. Casual mode, you hit start and can launch a ball right off the bat. No questions.

I'd like to know what WWE does on location. I hate the game and believe it would be a dud earner, but it would be nice to have some real-world data.

#473 6 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

I think if WWE earned well, we would be seeing it on location.
GOT, after over a year at this location, has really picked up steam. Suddenly, and inexplicably, it has been #1 over the last two months. Maybe because of the show?
Also, I bought silicone grease today and went to put it on my left orbit trap door. Before doing so, I found a stronger spring and replaced the existing one. Works great again, no grease needed!

One month recently Play Meter had WWE on their monthly earning top 5! It HAD to be a tiny sample of operators for that to happen. I canned the Play Meter sub once they went from top 10 to top 5 lists for pins every month and seemed to radically reduce their survey sample size to get the rankings each month.

On GoT when I'm around at the location, I show regulars some of the ins and outs of choosing a house to play in advanced mode. They get a "new" experience with the game and seem to play more, trying out the various houses and devising strategies. Definitely bumps the machine's earnings. I wish Stern would update the machine to cover what's happened in the series since the game came out originally, but I'm sure that's a pipe dream.

Likewise, on Dialed In, if I'm around and a player is there, I'll show them the skill shot since it's not completely obvious.

#483 6 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Those things help a lot on DMDs, but I'm not sure how it would help much on a huge LCD.

I signed up for Play Meter and recently started contributing to these. It's a joke. The list you can choose from is preselected , and it's basically just modern Sterns, plus WOZ and TH, plus WNBJM. You choose a number 5-10 for each pin. That's it.
The latest poll had WNBJM tied for #1, based off a sample size of...get this: 1 operator. It's easy to back out the number of responses by looking at the percentages.

I guess that's their way of controlling the output due to the small sample size. But I have no idea WHY they use such a small sample size. I'm sure there are plenty of operators that would do the survey to get some legitimate data out of it by seeing the amalgamated lists monthly that they contributed to as well. The top earners would likely be similar and float to the top without the artificial restriction of a list.

#500 6 years ago
Quoted from BrianBannon:

I believe that there are still NIB WWE games available from the initial run.

LE's, no less.

#547 6 years ago
Quoted from JWJr:

Once the phone is showing all the disaster icons, you can cycle through them (in both directions) with the flippers.

Or use the app to select disasters, launch the ball, and launch Big Bang on demand.

#548 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Yes I have done that. I'm wondering if you can TURN OFF the phone from constantly vibrating or ringing....

If you're getting the multiball notice for the first time, double tap both flippers to bypass multiball and stop the ringing. You only get this option ONCE.

#554 6 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

So skill shot not programmed yet?

Skill shot and double skill shots are all there.

Soft plunge to hit that little spot between the theatre exit and the pop bumper entrance for skill shot. When it ejects, hit the upper left ramp immediately to get a double skill shot. Which skill shot bonus is determined by what's lit in the shooter lane when you launch.

#564 6 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Right, it is. Got it once before I wrote the post and nothing happened, but since then its been paying out. Its a good skill shot too, and love the 2nd stage super skill shot.

If nothing happened (and that happens again), likely you have to adjust the stupid switch wire. The whole design of that area is REALLY touchy. Took me forever to get it adjusted so it would register and not get stuck so the ball had to wait for ball search.

#579 6 years ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

Remember when it was 6999 at expo launch, that was pretty hilarious.

SUPPOSEDLY that was a "joke" and was never the intended amount.

#582 6 years ago
Quoted from Vdrums:

Wow how long did that game last? Was that 3 balls or 5 (is that an appropriate question around here?)

Scores add up pretty fast if you manage to collect the SIM cards since they work as multipliers that really amp your score when you get a number of them.

#589 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

I just realized that some of the characters on the cell phone are not animated when speaking while others are. JJP revisiting to fix those or was that purposeful? Looks like they just ran out of time?

It's on the 1.13 bug list.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-113-bugs-and-features

#594 6 years ago
Quoted from tryton1000:

Hi all, I have the playfield protector on my LE, Every now and again, a ball will get trapped behind the right orbit flipper. Has anyone else had this issue? If so what would be the best way to fix it? Thanks in advance!

Doesn't it fall out when you raise the flipper?

#609 6 years ago
Quoted from tryton1000:

Not with the playfield protector

Doesn't releasing the flipper smack it out?

#617 6 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Why in the heck can't I find the setting to adjust the theatre magnet to prevent dropping the ball straight down the middle. I've read a negative setting is good but can anybody comment on where the hell this setting is and what number seems to work best. I'm at about a 6.6% pitch.

It's in the tests under theatre test, not the game settings (for some strange reason). Start at -90 and go down (bigger negative number) from there.

Since this seems to be a common "out of the box" adjustment needed by many, maybe JJP should add the location of the adjustment to the sheets with warnings and information taped to the glass when you unpack it.

#621 6 years ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Does anyone have a list of when the theater magnet should drop the ball down instead of flipping it back around to the upper flipper? My game does it during EMP and volcano mode, and also when hitting the train doors. The game was built about six weeks ago and had -120 for the theater magnet from the factory.

I haven't figured it out yet. Modes where I think it should it sometimes doesn't.

#623 6 years ago
Quoted from Pdxmonkey:

Those modes are suppose to drop the ball down

I've had EMP whip it back and around, but I can't figure out why it does only sometimes.

#631 6 years ago
Quoted from psexton:

JJP sent me the metal protectors for the phone and sim scoops a couple of days ago. Both scoops already appear to have milar on them and I don't seem to see any issues of wear without having the metal protectors on and they appear to be quite a bit of work to put them on. I am sure it is best to put the metal protectors on but are they really necessary and what exactly would be the issue if I didn't put them on?

Put them on. Mylar will not stop the chipping, and they WILL chip.

#653 6 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

I agree, much harder shot with the JJP protector on. I ordered a cliffy set before I knew the JJP ones were coming out, and may change it over for a comparison.

SIM card hole is no difference with the cliffy. Phone hole with a cliffy is initially a little harder, but after a few dozen games, it gets banged down and the hole shot is fine again. His being very thin helps.

#666 6 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Nope, but I have held both in my hand, and in my opinion Cliffy's are far superior...do what u want with that information

I don't have the JJP ones yet, but they look a LOT thicker in the pictures (which is not good). Is that the way they are in real life?

#669 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

suggestions for hitting the sim card shot? I've done it with left loop, right upper flipper but anything else? Also just installed mirror blades. looks nice...!

Practice with the upper right flipper. It's a hard shot to hit reliably, IMO.

#674 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Mirror blades in. REALLY makes the game pop even more - highly recommended as those black walls just look so incomplete. LE version - mirror blades from Pinball side mirrors:
https://pinballsidemirrors.com/product/pinball-side-mirrors/
Get the JJP WoZ/Hobbit size. Great company and was timely in responding to my questions. Installation was easy (youtube mirror blades and there are videos on how to do this) - no cutting or trimming necessary. The right one was harder to get in (really need to push in) but they installed well and look great.
I think the only thing this game might need is something in that back left corner (against the wall). What a great game though. So butter smooth.

Did you move your Crazy Bob's sign or are they coming like that from the factory now? I had to add a clear plastic from the subway station to the angled sign so there wasn't an airball trap with the re-orientation, though.

#676 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

No it was moved so you can see it better. Didn't come like that.

I thought maybe JJP had made a production revision to make the board actually USEFUL when playing. Angled is the way to go, but if you do, you need a clear plastic to prevent airballs from getting stuck behind the now-angled sign.

#678 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

interesting. I played many games with it and never had an issue with airballs.

We had a ton of airballs off the post to the right of the phone hole until the machine calmed down.

#688 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - does your game have any rubber protection on the left inlane middle post? The left inlane has a rubber on the post to the left but the middle post that is in b/w - any rubber expected to go on that one?

Nope. It won't play right if you add one to it.

#700 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

Ok I can see that but won't the metal on metal scratch the ball?

Ball trough is metal on metal, switches are metal on metal, there are a number of metal on metal points in a pin. That one isn't going to matter. Stern does those lane guides, too.

#734 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Question for owners. I'm considering buying a LE, but wondered about the following:
1) Does the game have depth?
2) Does it have an achievable wizard mode (unlike LOTR and TSPP)?
3) What is the build quality like?
4) Is it a family friendly game in respect to gameplay?
5) I notice that you can opt for a playfield protector. Is this Cliffy's?
Thanks

1. Yes, but not as much as WoZ.
2. Two, actually. Armageddon, where you do the disasters but don't collect all the SIM cards, and Showdown, where you have finished all disasters and collected all SIM cards. Armageddon is achievable within the first few weeks if you play a lot and are a reasonable player. Showdown is MUCH harder and more of a long-term goal.
3. Build quality is the best out there right now.
4. Yes.
5. Not sure if you're talking about the full playfield mylar protector (which I think is overkill and ruins the look of the PF after a short time), or the hole protectors for the SIM and Phone holes. JJP is supplying protectors for the two holes now, but I and others still feel the Cliffys are better.

#736 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Do the games now come with the hole protectors installed?
I don't see Dialed In protectors on Cliffy's site. What does his set include?

The CE are shipping with them, pretty sure they're rolling their protectors out to all of them now.

Cliff's set comes with SIM hole, phone hole, shooter lane, and two rollover protectors, though I think you can just ask for the hole protectors by themselves.

#738 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinballomatic:

Yes, installed at the factory. Cliffy has been way behind on DI sets owing to the huge demand. He has a $100 or so full set with a tee shirt, inlane protectors for ball drops, both scoops and shooter lane. Just email Cliff directly and he'll take your order that way, but the factory now has both scoops covered.

Cliff's sets include T-shirts? I never got one!

#766 6 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

If you buy one of the more recently produced games, they come with two scoop protectors installed at the factory. Granted, they are JJP protectors and not Cliffy protectors.

The JJP ones strangely do not cover the back of the SIM card hole, which gets the crap bashed out of it from hard shots from the upper right flipper.

#770 6 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

guys - I need to trim a little off of the phone scoop cliffy. I realized it's grazing the ball upon exit. I've already turned the part that was catching up and it shoots fine and offers perfect protection. What is the best thing to trim/cut this extra metal off? I tried normal scissors but not strong enough. Need a small but strong precision pair. Any recs?
btw - cliffy on my GB also caused some air balls so I ended up taking them off.....

I'd leave it alone. The ball action will bash the protector into the perfect shape after a few weeks of playing.

#790 6 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Anyone having ball trough issues? Switch 6 (trough jam) intermittently shows as closed (when there's nothing there), and keeps kicking balls out mid game.

Sounds like a loose connection on the opto board or a cold solder joint. Put it in switch test mode and wiggle the opto connector to see if it's intermittent then. If so, spread the pins a little and see if that makes it stay put better.

#794 6 years ago
Quoted from branlon8:

well duh, but the jjp homepage makes kind of a secret about it. The guys who will help me carry it downstairs want to know if and how much heavier it is than say bsd.

Probably about 300 pounds. Just a little lighter than WoZ.

#803 6 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I’ve had the heavy duty Mylar that is on the magnets - not surrounding - peel up for both magnets. Anybody else seeing this? JJP support is awesome as always and is sending me new mylar. (Thanks Steve Z.!)

There shouldn't be mylar ON the magnet cores, just AROUND them. No idea why JJP did this - they always will do this if you cover the cores with mylar. I just trimmed around with an xacto knife. Problem solved.

Note that removing the mylar from just the metal core part changed the machine a little on the one here. The drone one is more "grabby" (which is actually pretty nice) and the theatre had to have the timing adjusted for the throwback by -20 to work properly.

#908 6 years ago

Is anyone else's station stickers peeling off? The one on the side of the one here is spontaneously curling off the station.

#915 6 years ago
Quoted from aeonblack:

First day with the game and I already broke a million! Feels absolutely crazy on a jjp game, I was just on a real heater. I really enjoy how completing shots and modes, collecting sim cards (basically, completing things instead of just starting them), can net you huge points. Throw in some multiballs and crazy modes/bonuses, along with skill shots and super skill shots, and you can really get going.
Does anyone have any strategies for which skill shot to go for? I've been going for big points the first ball and then just trying random ones in second and third ball.

Multiplier skill shot, then hit the double skill shot. Then don't lose that ball and collect a lot of sim cards.

#921 6 years ago
Quoted from Zampinator:

I never go for the super skill shot, unless I have already lit "Big Bang". Use that upper flipper to light "Big Bang", then start a mode & shoot the "Big Bang" target. This auto completes the mode, awards all the points, & lights Sim Card. This is the best way to try & blow up this pin up.
It's all about completing modes & collecting those super valuable Sim Cards. The Big Bang target allows us to do it with less shots made.
I've owned this pin for 2.5 weeks, I have 300 plays on it, & we as a family are absolutely loving it. It has fun for all levels of pinball players, including new ones! It's a pure gem!
Thanks JJP & PLD!

Why wouldn't you go for the super skill shot as the ball comes down from the skill shot you made? It doesn't affect big bang or anything except you get more score.

#953 6 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

I know it's been said already,but what is the best setting for the theatre magnet?

Varies, machine to machine, but somewhere around -90 is a good start.

#964 6 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

How do you know its set correctly?

Trial and error. It should release the ball a little then quickly pull it back, swinging it around to the right upper flipper. Start at -90 and try it, then adjust -10 until you get to the point it does it reliably. I will say that removing the mylar from the magnet core in the center of that mylar also required me to re-adjust the pull time, too.

#975 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Its nuts ...trust me.... lots of new lighting effects in the game also.

Are any of the known bugs on the list addressed?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-113-bugs-and-features

#996 6 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

Anyone got a solution for the ball getting stuck on the skill shot switch? I made sure it's not dragging on the side of the switch hole but light shots are still getting stopped by the switch.

Adjust it down (bend the wire back so it is less vertical) and test. I had to adjust back and also bend it side to side so it wasn't touching the sides of the slot. Took a few hours of play, adjust, play, adjust, etc before it worked 100%, but it's been perfect since I got it dialed in. This really should have been an opto.

#1017 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Is Armageddon the final wizard mode?
I see a lot of people have made it to this... is the game quite shallow? How many modes/ disasters are there?
Don't know if I should get a DI or wait and see what a GOTG is like.

Armageddon is the "booby prize" ending. Not so hard to do. Showdown is the real ending and is hard to get to and hard to finish (I've not finished it yet).

The game is on the shallow side with 1.13, but it sounds like 1.46 code has already begun addressing issues of depth. I feel like Dialed In is another WoZ, building from a base.

#1021 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Man your game must be set up on the easy side?..... put the magnets on med and take all the easy eb away and ajust the kickback harder znd its not a easy game at all. My ball and game tines on di are around the same as my afm and bsd .... factory settings on 1.13 are way to easy imo. Wait till the new code is available as factory settings seem to be much more difficult.

Factory settings except more magnets and most of the EBs off. One EB max per game. I've been playing it since May, so headstart over most.

#1026 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Tilt? Also the kickback settings are very easy on 1.13 factory....this is changed on the new code. Not sure what else changed but the 1.46 is much more difficult and has been totally kicking my ass lol. Most of it tho is probably bc i suck lol

Tilt is what I would call average, but it's set to per ball, not per game (which is retarded, IMO). I get warnings all the time.

#1080 6 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

Well shoot the JJP phone scoop protector is starting to bum me out as it has really made the shot much more difficult. I played a bunch of games last night and am getting more frustrated with the rejected shots as I could hit the phone scoop at will without the protector. Any feedback on the Cliffy phone scoop protector, does it also make the shot very difficult to make?

It is initially a little harder to make, but within about 20-30 plays the ball beats it into the right shape and it's good. Cliffy's are WAY thinner than JJPs.

#1090 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Imo they used to small of a rubber on them (2in)i believe ....i changed mine out with 2.5 and they are much better.

Note that this may cause the left inlane to catch the ball since the rubber will not be stretched as far and therefore be "fatter".

#1097 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

I haven't had that happen at all since putting 2.5 ones on.

It's a *tiny* catch, probably 1/64". Your adjacent post may be far enough over on your machine that it doesn't become an issue.

#1193 6 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Party is on...dialed in is not... Game won't detect that there are 5 balls in the through. Now it keep sspeewing balls out. I've reset the connectors and nothing. Suggestions would be appreciated. Also note that in the test the switches show green as in ok.

Too many balls in the machine?

Is it continuously kicking all the balls out, or kicking out two at a time?

#1200 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Open a ticket at jerseyjackpinball.com under Support.
I'm sorry I don't have a better answer, my suspicion is the 06 transmitter or receiver failed.
LTG : )

Might just be a broken wire, though. I'd visually inspect and wiggle connectors for that while in switch mode to see if it toggles.

#1251 6 years ago
Quoted from Vyzer2:

Of course during my high score game

That's a weird ball trap. Ours has had that happen there a handful of times, too, usually as it dumps off the mini playfield.

#1264 6 years ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

Let’s talk monkey wrench multiball. Of about the 50 games I’ve played, I’ve only seen the mode once, and thought it was great. Trying to time the left loop to sneak balls by the diverter was a blast. Can anyone tell me what triggers this mode?

Light B-O-B targets to light Quick Multiball on the sign, then hit the left orbit, then hope the one you get (of 3 possible) is the Monkey Wrench multiball.

#1391 6 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

My tilt bob stopped registering entirely. I've never had this happen on any game I've owned. Connections seem fine. This happen to anyone else?

If it's like the other people with this issue it's a connection issue at the actual tilt mechanism. Check tightness of all screws and continuity from the tilt ring back to the wire leaving the mechanism.

#1392 6 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Just installed my cliffy protectors, replacing the JJP ones. Was getting so many rejects from both scoops with the JJP ones on, that the game was almost unplayable. The Cliffy ones are perfect - almost as good as without any. No rejects at all now.
Also, when I replaced the sim scoop protector, I replaced the white rubbers with much smaller ones. The hole is still hard to hit off the top Flipper, but no where near as hard as it was.

The cliffy's are definitely better. I don't know why JJP went with such thick metal that stands up off the playfield.

Note that on the phone cliffy, if you have the one that follows the bevel and then down inside, the ball hitting the seam where the metal bends down may cause it to "rise" away from the wall of the scoop. If this happens, it will need to be re-bent.

#1408 6 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

Cliffy sim card protector is much better than jjp, but both cliffy and jjp phone protectors need help. Finally settled with cliffy phone protector with modifications. Everything good now.

I believe Cliff has already modified his phone protector. New design is much better.

#1409 6 years ago
Quoted from check_switch_26:

Facial recognition of a person is a pretty big ask. I'm relatively certain Facebook and Apple have huge server farms that handle that for them.
Anyway, we will eventually pre-populate the high score initials from the name in the phone app profile. Everything in due time.

Do you plan to send player selfies to the app if it's connected so people can keep their playing selfies?

#1412 6 years ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

Anyone have an alternate download for new code? JJP website say 6-8 hours to download.

Wow, that's not right. What speed of connection are you on?

#1414 6 years ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

Just did a speedtest, 100mbit. Something bad is happening on their servers, can anyone else try now and see if they get reasonable speed?

If you can't work it out, PM me and I'll put it on my server for you to download and give you a link.

#1416 6 years ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

Just did a speedtest, 100mbit. Something bad is happening on their servers, can anyone else try now and see if they get reasonable speed?

Try a traceroute, not a speed test. It may be you have bad routing.

https://www.ultratools.com/tools/traceRoute and enter 159.203.76.48 for the host name and 64 as max hops

On the readout, none of the segments should be much over 50ms. Most should be 20 or less.

#1418 6 years ago
Quoted from focusmediagroup:

Hmm. Yeah a bad hop could have made sense. This looks ok though. I tried to redownload and same issue.
Pinging 159.203.76.48 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=85ms TTL=53
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=87ms TTL=53
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=93ms TTL=53
Reply from 159.203.76.48: bytes=32 time=87ms TTL=53
Ping statistics for 159.203.76.48:
Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
Minimum = 85ms, Maximum = 93ms, Average = 88ms
C:\Users\Claire>tracert 159.203.76.48
Tracing route to 159.203.76.48 over a maximum of 30 hops
1 14 ms 7 ms 5 ms 192.168.0.1
2 28 ms 55 ms 29 ms 10.93.0.1
3 18 ms 17 ms 19 ms 173-212-126-145.eastlink.ca [173.212.126.145]
4 17 ms 29 ms 40 ms ns-hlfx-dr001.ns.eastlink.ca [24.222.227.77]
5 17 ms 16 ms 170 ms ns-hlfx-br001.ns.eastlink.ca [24.215.101.221]
6 73 ms 69 ms 69 ms toro-b1-link.telia.net [62.115.42.69]
7 76 ms 93 ms 74 ms motl-b1-link.telia.net [62.115.134.49]
8 87 ms 87 ms 81 ms nyk-bb4-link.telia.net [62.115.134.52]
9 82 ms 93 ms 179 ms nyk-b3-link.telia.net [62.115.139.151]
10 82 ms 78 ms 79 ms digitalocean-ic-306497-nyk-b3.c.telia.net [62.115.45.6]
11 * * * Request timed out.
12 92 ms 88 ms 88 ms 159.203.76.48
Trace complete.

There's a few really bad segments there and some overall really crappy times, but it shouldn't cause 6-8 hours for a 3 gig file.

If you can't work it out, PM me and I'll upload then send you a link.

#1420 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I run it, but "Status Diverter Position" doesn't light up or show anything. It just keeps going up and down as I hold down ENTER.

Sounds like the leaf switch isn't making contact with the oblong wheel that trips it on each revolution, or the blade fell off. I'd look under the playfield and physically watch it make a cycle.

#1422 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Not sure if this will provide anything, but here is a photo:

First, in that test mode, if you manually trigger that switch with the roller does it show up as activated? If yes, continue. If no, check the wiring or replace the switch.

Then when you run the test and the off-center barrel on top is rotated around so the "fat" part is pointing down, is it making contact with the switch with the roller on it? If no, adjust so it is. If yes and it's still not triggering, loosen the lower screw and angle the switch up so it triggers when the barrel is in the "down" part of the rotation.

#1444 6 years ago
Quoted from andre060:

To everyone who has the game with JJP protectors installed: GET THE CLIFFY'S. This afternoon I took the JJP protectors out and installed the Cliffy ones - they are SO much thinner and play better, especially for the SIM shot. On my game at least the SIM shot was un-makable with the JJP protector except from a random bounce-in - a direct shot would ALWAYS get deflected away by the protector.
Top score before today, a few hundred games in since I got the game a couple weeks ago: 750k
Top score today, about 5 or so games after installing the Cliffy's: 2.9M. Collected 4 sim cards, boom!

Completely agree. JJP has rocks in their heads to try to reinvent the wheel when they have far less experience with protectors and the better solution has always been there for them for the asking.

#1451 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So I pulled the pf up, and took a look. Seems the wheel wasn't pressing down on the switch enough to make contact. All I did was move it around with my hand a little, and it started making contact. Played a few games, and seems to be working, but I suspect this problem will reoccur. The part that looks like a leg leveller seem to only be able to adjust the diverter on top, but what adjustments could be made to ensure the switch always gets enough contact to press in that little green button? The rotating wheel doesn't seem to be adjustable, so it would maybe come down to pulling out that switch and attaching something thin on it that would close the gap that there seems to be between the wheel and the switch. Any thoughts on this?
I'm also now getting an error on coil #36, showing that the trap door is "broken".

You can bend the leaf switch blade that has the roller up just a little bit so it makes contact easier. You can also loosen the two screws on the switch then angle the switch upward and re-tighten. It shouldn't take much of either to get it to work reliably.

The trap door is probably the issue that's been discussed a number of times in this thread. Read back a few pages on how to fine-tune that device.

#1480 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Start game. Hold left flipper button in at the same time hold left flipper button on your screen, until they link.
LTG : )

Do you still need to hold the buttons with the new updated app and 1.50 pin software?

#1493 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So, put a list together of things that aren't working on my machine, and what I need to get it done. Cliffy's should be here tomorrow, and will get everything running as it was meant to be.
A little confused about what to do with the mylar on the magnets. Some people suggest cutting around the magnet on the top and others from the bottom of the pf.
I'm assuming the objective is to get the mylar. off the magnet itself and leave the rest that covers the area around it?
I know when I take that mylar off I'm going to be left with all types of residue on the magnet. How do I get the residue off without affecting the rest of the mylar? If I were to use something like Goo Gone, anything that got to the edges around the magnet could be affected.
Any suggestions?

If it hasn't been on there that long, you may not have much residue on the magnet core and can roll it up with your fingers. Otherwise, a little goo gone will be fine.

I just carefully cut around the core at the edge between it and the playfield to get it off here. Worked fine.

#1502 6 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

I thought I heard somewhere that hitting QED more times before getting the ball in the phone would increase scoring....did I imagine that?

"Overcharging" the phone, yes.

#1508 6 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Can anyone advise on where to buy Cliffy protectors for Dialed In? My phone scoop is already starting to get funky. I can't seem to find them anywhere on the cliffy passion for pinball website.

You have to email him directly.

#1513 6 years ago
Quoted from adamross:

Thanks, but I don't see the protectors anywhere on the JJP website...?

You have to make a JJP support request to get them (although they sent one set to me without that, this is the preferred way). But yeah, they're too thick and the cliffys are much better, so that's the best choice.

#1516 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Contacted JJP a week ago about the many issues I'm having with my game, and haven't received a reply at all from them. If this is how they treat customers, it will absolutely be my last purchase with them.
On a side note, I've had only amazing experiences with CGC

Phone or online? Their phone support is fantastic. Their support ticket system, not so much.

#1519 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Online. Right out of the box, my diverter was working, B.O.B scoop not closing, wireform does not hold ball and instead hops over into drain, phone scoop ejecting balls super fast one shot, then super slow down the middle the next, two snapped rubbers, the pf is so tight to the cab, that put it back into the the resting position almost takes force that feels like you're going to chipped off the edge of the wood, and of course, those annoying metal protectors that rejects shots more than they protect anything.
I've bought three games NIB, and I've had issues with all unfortunately. I think I have shitty luck with pins. But CGC was so quick to provide support, that I got things up and running quickly. Pretty disappointed with all the issues I have to now work through to get this game running after paying as much as I did!

Most of those issues are easy tweaks that have been detailed here, but yeah, I'd try their phone support. Much better than online in my experience. I just put the revised cliffy on the phone scoop and it's night and day compared to the JJP one I tried out. That will absolutely solve your ball reject problems.

#1520 6 years ago
Quoted from flashinstinct:

Do people prefer the cliffy protectors or the default ones that comes on the game? Any difference between both?

Huge difference. The cliffys are much thinner and take up less of the holes so less ball rejects. His experience shines through in the design. I haven't seen a single owner recommend the JJP one yet.

#1524 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

My phone kickout appears to be less powerful too. Upped the coil power to 21.
I’m getting a few SDTM from the phone kickout.. anyone else have this issue?

Yes, but I couldn't figure out if it's a 1.50 thing or the machine passing the break-in period.

#1525 6 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

Dialed inn power blades by joe at pingraffix video doesn’t justify but you get the point » YouTube video

Seems weird because UFOs are a small part of what Dialed In is about.

#1538 6 years ago
Quoted from pinhacker71:

Where Can I get cliffys for dialed in. His website doesn’t have them listed. Do I ask for kick out protectors or a entire set for the game? Haven’t gotten mine yet, just want to be ready.

Email [email protected] and ask for a set of Dialed In protectors. He'll send you a paypal invoice.

#1546 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

You want the phone scoop, sim hole and two inlane switch protectors plus the shooter lane. You don’t need the skill shot protector, I got too many ball hang ups with it on and took it off.

Yeah, that skill shot switch type and design is a disaster. Putting a protector in there too is not advised.

#1548 6 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

I wouldn't call it a "disaster". All you need to do is bend the wire back slightly. That's it. Works 100% with the Cliffy in place for me - it's not the protector holding the ball, it's the wire being too high.
You should dial back the hyperbole - look at how people like Frolic react when people blow problems up out of proportion.

It was a disaster on the one we had, no hyperbole. Literally a week of tweaking and bending before we could get it to reliably register 100% of the time without hanging the ball up and triggering ball search sometimes. Once I got it dialed in, it's been rock solid, but it's a dumb design choice that should have been an opto or something, especially with how tight things are mechanically under the PF in that area.

#1609 6 years ago
Quoted from pinhacker71:

How do you guys remove Mylar ove magnet at theater. I’ve removed drone but reaching theater is a pain. Do I have to remove theater to access.

I used a very sharp x-acto with a long handle and took my time. Was able to do it without removing theatre.

#1610 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I agree. I have both sets of protectors and I'm only using 1 cliffy (v2) on the phone scoop. Seems like the SIM shot wouldn't take as much abuse (since it's not a VUK). The phone scoop is a tad more difficult, but not a big deal.
snaroff

SIM hole is the one that has clear cracking and playfield chipping on a number of machines. It's more fragile than the phone scoop. I wouldn't leave it unprotected.

#1613 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Whoa! How'd you pull that off? Did you cut from underneath the pf? I'm about to do mine soon, so I'm curious to know.
I'm guessing there is a slight gap that you can get the blade into between the pf and magnet? Did you have to adjust the magnet after to make it flush with the pf? And did you have residue to remove?

I just cut it from an angle, but I didn't do it in one motion. The back was the worst part. I had a tiny bit of residue to remove. It did change the throw of the magnet, for some reason, but a little adjustment and it was fine (until 1.50, but I think that's a software issue).

This is the x-acto kit I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5282-Basic-Knife-Set/dp/B00004Z2UB/

#1620 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Wish I would have had your advice earlier. The damage below happened yesterday evening. Game has 76 plays...manufactured 5 months ago. So sad. Since the phone scoop has a VUK, it makes no sense the SIM hole is more fragile. I've owned many Stern & B/W pins and have never had anything like this happen. Considering the difficulty of installing the SIM protector, I was planning on doing it after 100 plays (I typically do a mini-shop job every 100 plays). The design of this hole must be flawed in some way, especially if it's happening to a number of machines. My KISS Premium has hundreds of plays and no protection and there is almost no damage (since even thin Cliffies make the shot impossible given the size of the hole). And it's a VUK!
Considering the situation, it's unfortunate that JJP didn't release a strongly worded bulletin that emphasized the fragility of the SIM hole and urgency to install the protectors. If they did, I didn't get the message unfortunately. Don't know how many machines they shipped without protectors...mine is LE #96. For every other pin I've owned, damage to unprotected holes/VUKS was much more gradual/incremental. Sigh. I love this machine and feel awful.

This is why mylar won't help. It has to be covered with metal, and Cliffy has the best design for both holes.

#1621 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Unfortunately, the damage is larger than the surface area covered by the Cliffy. Looks like the JJP protector was designed to cover more surface area. If they designed these AFTER having customer damage & complaints, I guess it makes sense that they are on the hefty side.
Considering the technology/cost/craftsmanship, it's kind of shocking there isn't consensus on how to design a hole without tearing up a playfield!

Pat is mostly from the era before playfield clearcoat started sucking because of environmental ingredient bans.

The JJP ones cover a little more surface area, but they're thicker (not good) and don't cover as much of the inside area of the SIM hole as the Cliffys (also not good).

#1623 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I don't buy that logic. Stern clearcoat have to deal with the same "environmental ingredient bans" and I've owned plenty of their pins with MANY plays. None have ever chipped in this fashion. The hole design is badly flawed if many PF's are being damaged with so few plays. Not trying to get into a Stern vs. JJP argument, just reminding you that this damage is highly unusual. This type of damage after 4 months and 76 plays is manufacturer defect...plain and simple. Has nothing to do with the chemical composition of clear!

Not that unusual for any of the manufacturers now. MMr playfields have had the same thing, as have all recent Sterns except Aerosmith (to my knowledge). Also, isn't JJP having all theirs made by Mirco now, which is Germany (which has even tighter environmental regulations)?

#1626 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Some pics of afmr (before stock protector) and mmr....

Bingo. Similar MMr pics and recent Stern chipping pics out there, too.

#1637 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Installed a Cliffy this morning - now I can continue to play and enjoy my game without abusing the SIM hole. The JJP protectors would have covered the last 5% of the damage, however are too thick and would likely make the shot more difficult (based on Pinsider feedback).

Agree. +1 to JJP for getting protectors out there eventually, but why do it from scratch when what they have is inferior to what's already available? Why reinvent the wheel, but not as good?

#1640 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Interesting...thanks for the info! Dialed In is my first JJP and I have 0 experience with CGC products. I have an AFMr on order and now I'm wondering if it's the right idea.
You also confirmed my experience with Stern pins...never had any chipping. I've owned many B/W high-end restores (AFM, TOTAN, CC, MM) and never had ANY chipping. The Dialed In clear looks thick/gorgeous, and I guess I thought that translating into durable.
Hard for me to see how the damage below after 76 games is purely a CC issue. The artwork and top layer of plywood are missing. Maybe the wood is also much softer than the products I've had in the past? Design issue or not, if JJP/CGC are using PF's that damage this easily, they are responsible for doing whatever they can to product the critical sections of the PF. Stern and B/W represent the majority of modern pinball machines and their PF's don't shatter soon after taking them out of the box. Anyone who thinks this is normal hasn't been collecting that long...
snaroff

A guy that paints for a living said (about this on another machine, maybe WoZ?) that he felt the surface wasn't prepped right and the paint didn't grab the wood as it should as a result, then putting thick clear on it made it more brittle added to the problem. I'm paraphrasing, but that was his general opinion. Crazy Mirco/JJP haven't worked it out yet after all these machines made. They have it the worst in this area between CGC/Stern/JJP.

#1660 6 years ago
Quoted from DrStarkweather:

So is 1.50 no good? My DI-LE gets delivered tomorrow and I need to decide if I should upgrade it. Dont want a brand new game and then get frustrated that its not working.

Install 1.5 if yours doesn't come with it. It's better than 1.13.

#1664 6 years ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

Switch 60 "lock ramp enter" is stuck closed on my game. Anybody know which switch this is? Doesn't seem to be affecting game play...

Probably a switch on the ramp that leads to the station lock. I'd go into switch test mode and trip them one at a time until you find it.

#1665 6 years ago

Is there an option to clear photos without clearing high scores on 1.5?

#1677 6 years ago
Quoted from TheFamilyArcade:

I’m going to be putting some quality time on a route DI this weekend. Can anyone recommend a (fairly) simple approach to the game to have the most fun, get the most out of it and - to a lesser degree - score the best?
Thanks!

First time playing, I wouldn't worry about collecting SIM cards. Just try to keep starting disasters (QED electricity guy until phone charges up, then hit phone) - you don't have to finish them, to get to enough to see Armageddon. THEN you can play it "right" by trying to finish disasters and collect SIM cards.

#1743 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Based on Ted's comments in this thread, it doesn't appear the software is doing anything special (https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/jersey-jack-pinball-woz/F_TTrGjIixo).
snaroff

Maybe as a side effect, but SOMETHING changed in 1.5. No problems here with 1.13 and it whipped the ball around reliably. After the 1.5 upgrade, it almost never does now.

#1745 6 years ago
Quoted from Blakester:

Skill shot is not registering after the plunge—any advice?

Adjust, adjust, adjust. That switch setup for that shot was a mistake - it should have been an opto. Nothing but a headache until you get it adjusted *just right* so it registers every time and doesn't hold a too-slow ball without registering, sending the machine into ball search. Took me a week of on and off tweaking and testing, but once I got it right, it's been fine since June - no more issues.

#1747 6 years ago
Quoted from Blakester:

Quoted from Blakester:
Skill shot is not registering after the plunge—any advice?
Adjust, adjust, adjust. That switch setup for that shot was a mistake - it should have been an opto. Nothing but a headache until you get it adjusted *just right* so it registers every time and doesn't hold a too-slow ball without registering, sending the machine into ball search. Took me a week of on and off tweaking and testing, but once I got it right, it's been fine since June - no more issues.
If the skill shot kicker switch is working, what else could cause you not to get the bonus?

Glass off. Switch test mode. Roll a ball slowly into the skill shot. Does it trigger the switch?

#1749 6 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

That's nonsense. First off, pinball has been using that type of switch setup for 60-plus years just fine. Secondly, there's no room for optos up there.
I think I'll give Pat the benefit of the doubt that he knows what he's doing.

Not nonsense. An opto wouldn't have been much worse of a fit than the wire switch that's there now (look how tight it is underneath the PF), and it would have been less trouble out of the box. Pat is brilliant, but he's not batting 1.000. Pretending he can do no wrong helps no one. He makes obvious mistakes, like the stupid headphone jack relocation at your knees on Dialed In that makes no sense and the thick hole protectors that are not better than what was already available. If no one tells him those were a miss, he'll keep doing it thinking he's on the right track, which in certain cases, he's not.

#1752 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Theres no room for optos on the topside in that area unfortunately bc of the way its designed.... the way it is is the way it had to be.

I'll look at it again, but I'm pretty sure when I spent a week on and off adjusting it so it worked every time perfectly I checked to see if there was room for optos, and there was a way. What's there now sucks. Fine once you get it adjusted, but adjusting initially is a PAIN.

#1754 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

I believe tz rocket switch and fh skill shot use the same set up also.... so there must be another reason on top of not much room topside . My machine has been great so far after 800 games. The left side wall of the skill shot is also the right side of the theater wall ...so no way to put a opto on that side unfortunately.

Still pretty sure opto would work, but if not that, then a proximity sensor. Anything but the crappy switch type in there now that was a terrible choice.

#1761 6 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

Optos need to be ABOVE the playfield in the path of the ball. There's no room there. Also, you completely ignored the fact that switches like that have been used for decades. Also there's the fact that it WORKS JUST FINE when you adjust the switch. It's like you have some sort of blindness on a subject and cannot adjust your thinking ever.

I know how optos work.

If multiple people are having problems out of the box (and they are), it's not "just fine". I remotely helped another new owner spend over an hour adjusting it until it worked yesterday. This is not a one off problem. It's a crappy switch choice. We had rotary dial phones at one time. They were used for decades and WORKED JUST FINE. Should we go back to them?

And even if there's no room for an opto, there are other solutions like proximity sensors. Anything but that crap switch.

Quoted from jwilson:

It makes perfect sense because that's the only place it would fit. They took it off the door to save the outrageous cost of the custom door and also make room for the bill validator. The power box is in the way on the other side, it can't go under the shooter rod because then the cord interferes with the shooter, and the lockdown bar mech blocks it higher up.
Do you think these guys are just blindly putting things places and shrugging?

Funny, that's what Jack did when I asked about the weird placement in person. Literally shrugged and said Pat wanted it there. It's not the only solution for placement, and having done plenty of custom overseas manufacture myself, I sincerely doubt the cost at quantity for that WoZ door was "outrageous."

1 week later
#1873 6 years ago

At least they're getting finished! In the 1.13 thread the initial response about the non-animated ones was "as designed" which was concerning since it so obviously was unfinished. It's been confirmed that they will all be animated, which is good enough for me.

#1882 6 years ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Anyone have a link to a proven USB stick that works with JJP? Even though the file is under 4gb and my stick is 8gb it says it is too small. The stick is old so time for an upgrade.

Have you reformatted your stick? Maybe the FAT is damaged? Also it has to be FAT, not NTFS.

#1886 6 years ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

I'll be honest I don't know what that means. Tried to just drag the iso file onto the drive and it said it was too big, got that program JJP mentions in their instructions unetboot and the drive won't even come up in the drop down menu.

This is on a PC, right (not mac)?

What version are you trying to update to? Have you done 1.50 already? If you're dragging the 1.50 ISO to the stick, you're doing it wrong. For full updates like 1.50, you need to use ubootnetin to have it put the ISO files on the stick for you and make it bootable.

Here's the full install (ver 1.50 is a full install you have to do BEFORE the delta 1.52 update) instructions, step by step:

http://159.203.76.48/general/install-full/

#1923 6 years ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Yes I am doing a full 1.50 install and am on a Mac. I went through that instructions, and everything seemed to go well. Put the stick in the game and i started as usual, went to usb update in the menu and the game rest but was still 1.13. Went back to usb update in the menu again and it said "no update directory found! please ensure DL_UPDATE directory is located in the usb root" Everything from the original file went onto the stick through unetbootin, and I checked the info and it did say FAT. I have a new stick that LTG recommend coming soon (thanks again for the help) so will try the process with that in a day or too. I know JJP recommends 8gb+ stick and when I went to the info of mine it said the capacity was just 7.6gb but I don't know if that would matter.

You're not following the FULL INSTALL instructions correctly. If you had made the image using ubootnetin on the USB stick the game would not have booted, it would have booted to Linux instead and updated the game to 1.50. At this point, don't even worry about 1.52. Your main goal is to successfully do a full install with the 1.50 image and ubootnetin.

The only possible thing I can think of that may be causing this if you're doing the rest right is if the USB cable is not plugged into the computer all the way. Might want to check the connections in the head. If that's good, you're just not following instructions correctly for the full install.

Here's what a Dialed In full-install process should look like (it's distant but should let you know what the screen looks like):

#1940 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Return spring may have broke.
Here is a quick fix : Bend last loop over. Voila a new spring.
LTG : )

This brings up something happening on WoZ for me. It's destroying springs in 1-2 days on the Munchkin loop mini-flipper. I put a new flipper spring on. Come back 1-2 days later and it's non-functional. When I look at it, it's all stretched out to 3-4x its normal length with loose loops, and stressed like it's 10 years old. happened 3 times now. Any idea what could be happening?

#1942 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Something's messed up. Spring catching on something and pulled from that point ruining the spring.
LTG : )

Both ends are still connected, but the spring in-between is blown out and the metal stressed and brittle as if it had a ton of power run through it (this happens in only 1-2 days). Everything looks fine and plays okay when I change out the spring initially, though...

#1948 6 years ago
Quoted from Jpp718:

I'm having a problem with the balls coming out of the trough

Go into settings and increase the coil power for the Ball trough VUK. For some reason it's always too low on every JJP game we ever got.

#1968 6 years ago

Joined the ball trap by the drones club. This was an airball off the right side of the phone scoop that bounced up and landed here:

dialed in ball trap (resized).jpgdialed in ball trap (resized).jpg

-1
#1970 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

- Replaced JJP phone/SIM protectors with Cliffys (WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!).
- Installed shooter lane Cliffy.

Quoted from Concretehardt:

I also have a set of Cliffys coming to replace the factory Sim & phone scoop.. can’t wait to get them!

I've literally yet to see anyone prefer the too-thick JJP protectors. It's a mystery to me why JJP tried to design something of their own that ended up worse than what was already out there, and wasted 2-3 months designing some while playfields were being damaged. I'm positive Cliff would be thrilled to work with them. Hopefully they at least talk to him for future JJP machines. It certainly would be nice to have day 1 protection on jjp Pirates.

#1974 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Does anyone happen to know what this issue may be? Everything looks fine from what I can tell.

Go to the second switch test screen (the first one isn't the "real" screen) and lift the rubber in the drone area with the leaf switch. It will probably trigger as the moved rubber lets it open up. You need to adjust the leaf switch so it's not touching when the rubber is at rest and then triggers when the rubber is depressed.

#2024 6 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

Awesome to hear! Frank is The Man!

Frank is indeed awesome to deal with at JJP. One of the best they have.

#2044 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Has anyone had a problem with the phone scoop ejecting balls at very different speeds? For the most part, it will shoot out strongly to the right flipper, but occasionally it will come out noticeably slower and just go SDTM with absolutely no chance to save it.
Was having my best game ever last night and had this happen. Makes it hard to get deep into the game when you run the risk of losing a ball anytime that scoop goes off.
I tried bending the scoop hood down bit. Noticed the balls were ejecting faster and stronger, but after a few games it went back to the current problem.
Anyone have this happen?

If you film it in slow-mo with an iphone, you'll see it's probably hitting the bottom side of the ramp that runs across in front of it when it comes out "slow" (it was on the one here). Bending the scoop guide down is the way to prevent that, and reducing coil power is probably a good idea, too.

#2048 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

For those having issues with their phone scoop kickout, check your protector. I have a genuine cliffy on mine and I noticed the flaps were bending outward and possibly affecting the path of the ball. I removed the cliffy and bent the flaps back in and it seems pretty consistent again, no sdtm.

The Cliffy 2.0s don't have this issue. Cut the part below the bend at the bevel, file to smooth the edges and you'll have a Cliffy 2.0.

#2051 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I just bent back the flaps back, should be fine now as pic shows. If they bend out again, which I don’t expect, I’ll cut them off.

They'll keep bending out. What's happening is the ball is pounding that crease where the metal bends down, flattening it out. it takes time, but it'll happen again. That's why 2.0 doesn't have that part that goes down.

#2062 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

fyi...this is what the TNA scoop looks like (copied the photo from a TNA thread). Don't know why pinball manufacturers don't standardize on this design (beveled edges, internal metal "Mantis" style). For new games, this is the best design...protects the PF and doesn't effect the ability to make the shot.

Because it doesn't protect the clear around the hole from chipping, and clear does chip on too many of these newer PFs for whatever reason. The SURFACE of the Dialed In we have around the SIM hole was chipped within 50 plays. Mantis design that would still happen. Cliffy design it does not.

#2064 6 years ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

Are you guys using the phone cliffy 2.0 or the original? He sent me a 2.0 for free (I bought a whole set months ago and a set for another game). Haven't put it in yet though, great service thank you cliffy.

Cliffy 2.0 on phone and original on SIM hole here.

#2071 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

And my SIM hold was chipped after 70 plays while waiting for the Cliffies to arrive. As far as I can tell, the SIM hole damage was caused by the sharp angles (particularly on the left & right sides of the hole). I had 0 damage where the bevels were cut. Did you have any damage on the bevels? Curious.
Since I believe the phone is beveled all around, I think it's much less prone to the crazy SIM hole damage. I just don't like the way the phone shoots with the Cliffy installed.
snaroff

Dunno. I wasn't taking a chance on more cracking/chipping.

Do you have the original or 2.0 Cliffy at the phone? The 2.0 doesn't really change the shot since the interior area is the same size.

#2074 6 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Does anyone have a picture of the 2.0 Cliffy for the phone scoop? I'm not sure which version I have.

If yours is at an angle from the edge, then bends and goes straight downward, that's 1.0. If you have just a short angled part that covers the bevel only, that's 2.0.

If you have the lower part that's labeled 1.0 in this picture, you have 1.0. You can easily make 1.0 into a 2.0 by just cutting it at the crease and filing the rough edges and corners.

cliffy2.0 (resized).jpgcliffy2.0 (resized).jpg

#2076 6 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

Looks like I have a v1 scoop protector.

yes. If you cut at the last bend on the three segments, it makes it a 2.0.

#2087 6 years ago
Quoted from pinball_mutha:

Does anyone leave the felt off the legs, I found it to be a bit wobbly?
Also I noticed some DI's have a small rectangle box on the top back box that acts like a camera flash, is this something that you can buy or is it supposed to come with the machine?
Thanks!

It comes with the standards meant for locations, but not the LE and CEs primarily for home use. Basically it just makes a brighter flash than the playfield lights for better selfie pics.

#2135 6 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

Corrected position of BOB. Looks so much better.

For home this is good, but if it's on route, you need to put a plastic to the left of Station 3 exit to prevent an airball ball from getting behind the signs and being trapped.

#2217 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Am I missing something... I have hit 1 million once or twice, and you guys are blowing it up.
I feel like I'm decent at most games I play, but maybe I'm missing something on DI!

Collecting the SIM cards is the key to higher scores. Stick SIM memory on in your settings while you learn. It will increase your scores until you can do it without the SIM memory.

#2235 6 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Guys don't do it. Don't turn SIM memory on. It will hurt the long term playability of your game. I too thought getting all the letters was impossible. Over time it gets easier as you learn the bounces and angles, etc. So glad I didn't turn the memory on.

Meh. I'm not saying to LEAVE it that way, but if someone isn't enjoying the game, why not make it enjoyable while they learn. I have a friend that set his new Sterns to 10 balls/game because at 3 balls his games were over in less than a minute and he wasn't enjoying the games. He eventually went to 5 then ended up at 3 balls/game with a much better understanding of the games and substantially more skill. It wasn't ever going to be a permanent change or a "cheat" but a TOOL to help him learn to play the games while having FUN. Everyone is not at the same level, which is why the games have options. It's YOUR machine - set it so you have fun.

#2243 6 years ago
Quoted from jwilson:

I wonder if there’s room for Mantis style protectors to deal with the lip issue on Cliffy ones.
I’d rather play the game as intended by Pat, but I don’t want to damage my insanely expensive game!

Mantis won't protect against the chipping. There really isn't a lip issue with the Cliffys unless the ball is going REALLY slow, which almost never happens. The ideal world is one where the PF is routed with cliffys in mind so once the cliffy is on at the factory, the hole is exactly the intended size and the edge is flush with the playfield (and the clear isn't extra-brittle). We can dream.

#2257 6 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I unboxed my game yesterday and today for some reason the start button mech broke away and I cannot get it to snap into its holster anymore. Here's a youtube-video about the problem: » YouTube video
I submitted a ticket to JJP about it. Meanwhile, is there anything I could do to fix this?
I have a spare start button from my Monster Bash, but the parts are not interchangeable. Would it work if I replaced the whole mechanism with it (button, mech holster, bulb, switch)? There are some spikes on the start button backside though, so I would have to file them away.
Thanks for any info!

Try taking the bulb out. Sometimes if the bulb is too high, the start button won't snap together right.

#2260 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Is there a way to restart a game after the first ball is played, like on B/W games where you just hold down start?
Also, I think someone mentioned you could use Chaos in QC to help complete a mode, but not sure how since it automatically starts after completing the 6th mode.

SYSTEM SETTINGS->GENERAL->GAME RESTART

(Set it to something other than "NEVER")

#2262 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I've owned B/W pins for years and never knew about this feature. Does it have to be enabled like for DI? I'd check mine, but the herd is in another location...
snaroff

Default on B/W is on (might be set to "SLOW" meaning you have to hold start for a bit), so it should work unless the settings were changed.

#2310 6 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

Hi!
Could somebody please provide a picture of the wire that goes into the connector on the motherboard highlighted in the picture (its a picture of the CPU-unit in the backbox and its right bottom corner).
I have had to dismantle my dialed in in order to be able to carry it downstairs and it seems that orientation of the wire connected to this connector was not documented.

That connector is keyed. If you look closely, you can see on the left side one pin is missing. That should correspond to the connector with one hole plugged. If none of the holes are plugged on the connector, look for the one that is missing a wire and that one will line up with that pin that's missing so you know you have it connected properly.

#2339 6 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

When the ball goes over the QED guy's rail slot, does the ball make a tiny jump in your game?
In mine it does, but it might be because of the playfield protector.

Doesn't here.

#2341 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I noticed that. So one way to get an extra ball is to start three modes. The other way is to do combos. But how do you do that exactly?

Chain together ramp shots is the easiest way.

#2353 6 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Anyone curious to the exact cause I've illustrated the issue. The top (ball stopping) part of the wireform on the "bad" ones is parallel or worse slightly further toward the player than the bottom (ball dropping) part. This causes the ball to ramp upwards and go flying. I've illustrated (poorly) the part that is angled in on the newer correct wireforms, which causes the ball to immediately collapse down through the hole. You'll see on his original direct overhead shot a few posts up how the top is clearly further towards the player than the bottom. This is the manufacturing error.
Fixing this is not a matter of just bending that thin piece I'm pointing the arrow at so the top is before the bottom, since these pieces are connected at other thicker points along the way. But if you have access to tools that allow you to make this happen, you'll have fixed the issue.
On proper wireforms, the ball should NOT bounce back at all when it hits the end of the wireform, it should immediately drop down.

Since those are just spot welded, bending the end risks breaking the little vertical support.

1 week later
#2461 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Here is what the v2 Cliffy looked like installed. As you can see, the corners have a slight lift which leads to more rejects. Cliffy sent me a v3, but I haven't installed it. I prefer the way it shoots without the protection, and the hole has no damage after many plays (unlike the SIM card hole, which is very fragile).
snaroff

That usually happens when you tighten the contact points too tight. They should just be barely tight. Mine does not look like this, it lays flat.

#2463 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Perhaps, but I showed the photo to Cliffy and he didn't advise loosening the posts. If they are "barely tight", they will loosen quickly. In any event, glad yours don't have any lift!
snaroff

They won't loosen. The nuts holding them under the playfield grab well. The one here is on location with many hundreds or over a thousand plays since I put on the v2 and I haven't had to re-tighten them.

#2476 6 years ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

Hey guys! New DILE owner! My game arrived today and was built 1/15/18. The game arrived perfect and playes well. I have the factory cliffies

Are they REAL Cliffies from the factory?!! Can you take a couple pics?

#2479 6 years ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

No, not real cliffys, I have no issues making shots though. However I am sitting right now after locking a ball trying to cancel out of MB and it won’t let me....

Oh, haha, got me worked up there for a minute!

#2500 6 years ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Hi all! Just got a Dialed In Standard Edition and the start button assembly was hanging loose inside. I can't make it stick in the hole where it's supposed to be. See image where I've put it in the hole. Is there any parts missing?

You just need to twist and push a little harder so it will snap in. Start at about 11 o
clock and twist to the 12 o'clock position as you push in. When you get it, it will click.

#2506 6 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

My audio-connector in the front is not working - anyone with the same problem and how did you fix it?

Check the cable inside the cabinet at the front, and if that's connected, open the box in the head with the computer motherboard and make sure the audio connection is plugged in there and didn't come loose.

#2515 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

+1 Mine is not raised like that either. I get zero rejected shots. Only issue for me is the part that protects the wall of the hole. It makes it to narrow, so it effects the ball ejecting.

Sounds like you have a V1 version. The V2 does not go down into the hole, only protecting the top and beveled part. Stops those rejects. Email Cliffy.

#2571 6 years ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Mine throws the ball straight into the wireform in front of the phone eject. It hits exactly where the cross piece is welded across the rails. I wonder if that is causing damage to the balls and then playfield? Anyone else’s doing that?
I’ve turned the power right down to it but still happening.

Keep turning the phone eject power down until the ball doesn't go airborne.

#2572 6 years ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Thanks. Only had it for 24 hrs or so. Previous owner said to me that it was designed to slow down the ball. Didn’t seem correct to me.

Absolutely not correct. Lower eject power is more effective at slowing the ball properly.

#2595 6 years ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

So... this is NOT a paid advertisement :eye roll towards the haters:. Now that we got that out of the way. I wanted to share my first ever experience with Pinstadium lights. The package came well prepared and organized. I did about 10 minutes of phone help with Dialed In because it’s just a tad more complex than plug and play but easy enough for someone who has 0 mechanical ability. With that said. Here are 2 photos in 100% dark room. 1st is with 75% blue and 100% white. The second is 100% white settings. AEnjoy! This is definitely a top three mod for me now going into the future behind pdi glass and a color dmd. It looks even better in person!

What does it hook to for the power source? I saw a youtube vid where it flashes in concert with the flashers and did NOT like that, but thinking of replacing the massive number of light towers to light a WoZ for dark rooms with this instead...

#2597 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Pic of dile in dark room.... no extra lighting needed imo and its one the best out if the box lit pins ever imo. The inserts and gi can be turned up more if needed also.

Stock DILE is like the SUN compared to stock WoZ.

#2605 6 years ago
Quoted from mtp78:

How many multi balls in this game? I can only seem to get a 2 ball multi....havent seen any others yet.

You can get a 3 ball multiball with the Station, then add-a-ball from there. There's also monkey wrench and hi-voltage multiballs in the crazy modes.

#2609 6 years ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

This is literally in my dining room with no light at night. Took it on a iphone at 7pm today with black out window blinds. The photo you showed does not have a dark mid playfield like mine, so either you are lieing and not in a 100% dark room, or you edited the photo, unlike mine being straight from picture to here.

Or, he has a better camera than your iphone. That's a possibility, too. Why so accusatory? Dialed In is already pretty well-lit from the factory, but if you want more light, great. That won't be what everyone wants.

#2623 6 years ago
Quoted from estrader:

On a couple of stern machines I have lollipop rails to product the cabinet art around the flippers, what is everyone using for dialed in?

Unneeded on JJP pins.

#2628 6 years ago
Quoted from MightyGrave:

I use lexan protectors around the buttons.
Nice price and works perfect.

For JJP cabinet art that's likely overkill. We have JJP pins on route and haven't had a single one with Stern-like wear from fingers around the flipper buttons. JJP seems to have a better seal on their art or something. Doesn't wear and smear like Stern around the flipper buttons.

#2648 6 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Here is how that piece is now being bent at the factory to prevent ball damage.

Seems like putting a blue bumper on the end would be better than bending the stainless.

#2651 6 years ago

It would have to be adapted for use with a stainless lane guide like on DI, rather than a ramp like MB, BM'66 etc (which is usually thinner metal). It could be done, but a simple bracket would have to be fabricated, probably attached to that post on the back side to the right.

#2675 6 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

If you look at the charged phone you'll see the currently available disasters, when you flip you'll see that you're changing which one is lit. Hit the scoop with the disaster lit you want to start. Bare in mind when you flip it will move one place so select one disaster to the left or right depending which flipper you use ( same as how the ring modes are selected in LOTR )

Or you can select with the app on your phone.

#2681 6 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I finally beat my Dialed In!
I just had an amazing game. While playing through all of the modes, shots and got past Chaos in Quantum City and Armageddon. I didn’t complete each of the modes the first time around, but after completing them all they started again so I was able to light enough SIM cards. I was concentrating on completing modes and getting multiballs and shooting for SIM cards. At one point the phone turned gold, and soon I realized that I had only one SIM left to complete D.i.a.l.e.d. I.n. All of the sudden I’m playing against D.I.E. In the Showdown mode. All of the balls are launched and the phone turns light blue and says: “Shoot phone to reveal enemy weak spot!”. Each time I hit the phone another major shot lights red and becomes vulnerable for attacking D.I.E. Each time a ball drains I lose a bit on my meter and each time I hit a red shot D.I.E. Loses some of it’s meter. Whenever a ball drains it’s launched back into play. At one point I beat D.I.E. And the backglass returns to normal (sans meters) and whenever a ball drains at this point it’s gone. All of the red shots are still lit and scoring jackpots until the second-to-last ball drains. At that point the game returns to normal play with no letters in D.i.a.l.e.d. I.n. lit. Final score: 9,748,530.
I was able to cradle the ball and take a picture (below) when I had all but 1 SIM card, but after that the game was just too crazy to try to stop and get pictures.
Dialed In is such an amazing game!

Awesome work!

("Weakspot" isn't one word, it's two. Maybe "Weaksauce" but not "Weakspot" - something to fix in v1.55.)

#2704 6 years ago

Depends on when you got it. The rubber they're using now is not the same as what they initially came with for the first couple months.

#2706 6 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

I haven't noticed as some early ones were sent out with some junk. I'll be replacing mine with Marco white for sure

What we did. Haven't regretted it. Marco has the best white rubber out there.

#2709 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Are you guys doing this with the SIM memory on?

I got my recently, so it would have been the newer rubbers? Are they silicone or standard rubber? Was going to just buy standard rubber from Pinball Life, but the feel of the rubbers in my game seem a bit different from other rubbers I have in my B/W games.

We had rubber from the original run, so I don't know what you got, but it seems like it's silicone now from what I've read from others here. I still like the bounce of the Marco white rubber best.

#2713 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Is Marco rubber any different from say Pinball Life rubber?

Yes. Marco's is bouncier and feels more pliable. I haven't ordered from anyone else in years as a result. He's got the best white rubber.

#2725 6 years ago
Quoted from VividPsychosis:

Anyone have the issue where when you turn on the machine and loads up, it thinks the coin door is open? I can start a game and it goes away, but every time I turn it on it says it’s open and I cannot see past it on the screen. Game plays fine aside from that.

Check your connections to the big white interlock switch on the inside left of the coin door. Sounds like yours has a flaky connection or is defective.

#2727 6 years ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

I seem to get a lot of balls come into the drain, and don't register. I have to open the coin door, and nudge the balls to get it noticed.
Any easy fix for this?

Empty the trough, then switch test mode, then load the trough one ball at a time to see where your problem is. Might have to do it a few times.

#2732 6 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I am sure that his has been asked before, but what to do with this post on the left? Ball is often trapped between it and the inlane in my machine. Have you removed it altogether or e.g. replaced it with smaller post? Which is a good replacement post to use?

Ball should not stop on this post and doesn't on the one we have. Is your machine level? Is the playfield pitch steep enough?

#2735 6 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

I am worried about the ball nicking itself to the metal plate after the post... Can you send me a pic on how you did it? I think my machine should be level and steep enough, but I recheck! I think the problem is accumulated due to the playfield protector that I am using...

So many hangup issues with those playfield protectors...I guess this is another to add to the list. We didn't do it, and I'm glad...

#2743 6 years ago

Which is actually preferred since the stock standoffs on Dialed In weren't (aren't still?) thick enough and part of the leg still contacts the cabinet, causing wrinkling at two points on the front legs.

#2745 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Had no idea. The mantis protectors look awesome.
snaroff

If you run your finger along the edge of the Dialed In legs you can feel where it contacts the cabinet at the turn in the leg when it shouldn't. If you've had it a while you might see wrinkling starting there, too.

#2750 6 years ago
Quoted from Marvin:

The thing is the legs should actually be touching the cabinet. They are shaped to spread the compression over a larger area. People's anal retentiveness over the cabinet corners has caused people to not want that to happen. It also makes the games more wobbly. You're now putting sharing stress on the bolts, which is not what they are designed for. Bolts are designed for linear stress.

You want them to touch the cabinet AT THE STANDOFFS, not at the edges. This does not cause stress on the bolts because the leg is secured to the cabinet against the standoffs. Point is, JJP's stock ones are touching at the edges and causing the cab stickers to wrinkle.

#2760 6 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Help my theatre not seeing balls going thru it. Thanks

Go into switch test mode and manually try triggering it to see if the opto works. If it doesn't, check the connections to the multi-opto board under the playfield. After that, check to see if other optos in the same column work (left orbit made opto above and to the left of the theatre, phone scoop enter, moving target away opto). If they're ok, then an opto at the theatre or the opto board they plug into may be out.

#2762 6 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

Is the switch #13 Theatre Center Shot the switch I want?Can you roll a ball by the optics with coin door open

Yes, that's what you want. You don't have to roll a ball. Anything can interrupt the opto beam, just has to be long enough to reach into the theatre.

#2766 6 years ago
Quoted from rockrand:

You opto more than likely feel off ,I did my left one twice before I glued it in place.

They snap in pretty firmly. I didn't even think that was a possibility!

1 week later
#2824 6 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Well. I tried bending the right ramp entrance down per pats instructions and it did not help.
Unfortunately, what helped, is tape over the ramp flaps and rivers. This proves the problem is at the very entrance to the ramp. I flipped 10 shots to the right orbit, all 10 shots cleared the ramp. I can’t help but wonder if the left orbit is having a similar issue.
How to fix it I have no idea. Hack fix pic attached.

Mylar to the rescue! If this is the fix, it's actually pretty easy.

#2843 6 years ago
Quoted from Deez:

I ordered it on Amazon - it's the principal of the matter not the money. Someone play tested the game, definitely heard blaring static and was like - "good enough". Ship IT!

It's usually a location-specific wiring issue, so they probably heard nothing at the factory.

#2847 6 years ago
Quoted from Deez:

I'm thinking my two prong outlets might be the issue. It's going on location soon so I'll confirm once it's there.

Oh, yeah. Older wiring can cause all sorts of issues with electronics. If you have 2 prong outlets, that wiring is likely well over 50 years old.

#2850 6 years ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Mine had proper grounding in the outlet, and still had annoying static constantly (like water always running). Maybe it's a loud factory floor?
Anyway - $9 Amazon gadget, 3m install. Fixed. amazon.com link »

Just because you have 3 prong outlets doesn't necessarily mean the ground connection is good. It could be a poor ground causing the noise. There are testing tools to check the quality of the wiring job.

#2852 6 years ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

I have checked it. And recently redid the house electrical system (all new power boxes, new wire runs). Pretty sure it's good. And my checking was correct.
Anyway - when you call JJP, they tell you it's a known issue. This isn't a "house problem". It's just a problem with how the audio amplifier is implemented in the design. It's not properly isolated, and it needs this filter. JJP has confirmed this much to me.

But for most people there's no static, so the location wiring has something to do with it. We've never had the problem on any of the JJP machines. We did have popping issues on The Hobbit, but that turned out to be software.

#2900 6 years ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

Did JJP issue new “2.0” metal hole protectors?

Pretty sure they're using actual cliffies from the factory now, which is AWESOME.

#2901 6 years ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

I’m having a lot of trouble with my theatre magnet. I’m getting it to work in the test at -83. Will not work at any other setting. Then it doesn’t work during the game at all.
Am I missing something some where? Arghhh! It’s doing my head in.

Try -120. Every pin is different, and some take a much higher number. Also, what's the pitch on your machine?

#2903 6 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

I don't think so. I have a game manufactured in the middle of January, picked up a week ago. I contacted Cliffy a week ago for a set for DI. If they were his installed from the factory, he would have said. I have no doubt that actual Cliffy's are a worth while upgrade, I'm just glad there are protectors so I can play while I wait for his backlog.
Besides, from experience, the protectors on the game are too thick. He uses stuff much thinner, and they work very well.

The changeover seems to have happened after you got yours, in only the last week or so, with a build date of 30th Jan. The one in the pictures posted in the other thread are definitely cliffies (or an exact knockoff) from the factory now.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dailed-in-by-jjp/page/32#post-4218215

#2905 6 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

That's a beta link.

Oops! Not anymore.

22
#2907 6 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

From my understanding, JJP purchased all the equipment to make their own parts including cliffies and ramps and stuff. They could have just redesigned theirs and made a better version.

It should be clear from the abortions that JJP engineered first that not just anyone can make a protector that works well. The CAD program, tooling, and everything else are nothing without specific know-how and experience. Cliffy has that in spades.

I checked with Cliffy today. The ones on the Dialed In made on the 30th that shipped from the factory with Cliffy-like protectors are actually real Cliffys. He wasn't sure when they were going to be on the Dialed In machines leaving the factory so he couldn't say anything until they showed up in the wild. I'm 100% thrilled that JJP is working with Cliffy now to ship their machines with his awesome protectors!

Credit where credit is due, JJP is the first manufacturer to come through and realize shipping with actual cliffys is the pro-customer way to go. I'm just surprised JJP isn't advertising the fact that Dialed In has them now. It's a real PLUS for them, IMO, and a post-purchase cost-savings for the customers who won't have to buy them.

BRAVO, JACK! It took a while, but you finally got this right! Keep it up!

#2915 6 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

All manufacturers should learn from this. The only problem is cliffy will be so busy it will be very hard and a very long wait to get his products now. I was actually disappointed my AFMrle did not come with cliffies on known problem areas. Hopefully they learn and add on next remakes.

It seems like he's working with a fabricator now or something to speed things up. Hopefully that will smooth things out once he gets all the kinks in that new process worked through.

#2922 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I'm trying to fine tune my game, and wanted to ask you guys a couple of questions:
1) Does it seem about normal to have the drone magnets spit the ball directly into the left outlane at least once every game or two. I can be having the most awful or most awesome game, and I'm bound to lose one ball in a game to the drone magnet.
2) Similarly, I lose about one ball every game to the ball bouncing off the left slingshot and quickly shooting directly into the right outlane. On all my other games, I lose a ball to the slingshots every 2-3 games probably, and I also have a bit of a chance to nudge the ball out. With DI, the ball fires almost perfectly right into the outlane, and you have zero opportunity to save it.
Input would be appreciated.
Thanks!

Never had #1 happen. Occasionally have #2 happen if I fail to nudge well.

#2925 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Yeah, it's definitely a joy kill. Hard to play when you have a high chance of the game draining at least one ball per game where you have zero chance of saving it.
Does anyone know if I can rotate the magnet, or do something so it changes the direction that it tosses the ball? If so, I'll just take the assembly apart, rotate the magnet, and put it back in.
Thanks!

Rotation shouldn't make a difference because where the ball is in relation to the magnet post when it energizes dictates how the ball will be thrown. Do you have the magnets set to the "active" setting? Maybe the lower setting would make this happen less for you.

#2927 6 years ago
Quoted from brucipher:

Glad that JJP is now using real Cliffys, but annoyed that I paid for a set of them out of pocket.

It doesn't look like JJP is shipping Dialed In with ALL the Cliffies, just the phone and sim hole ones, so you're still ahead of the game for the shooter lane, rollovers, etc that came in the sets you bought from Cliff directly.

#2928 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Everything is at default except SIM memory is on. I'll give it a try. Thanks

Just change the setting from whatever it is now to the opposite and see if that helps your situation.

#2940 6 years ago
Quoted from woody76:

This is why I am hesitant to start blasting on the forums until I have pursued ALL avenues possible to get something resolved. I have had excellent support from JJP as well as Stern. Sometimes things take time to resolved.

But posting publicly is important to identify problems you're having that others are having as well. A number of the operators here were having the WoZ lockup problem that went unfixed for over 2 years. They did the "right" thing and tried to work it out with JJP, who weren't helpful. I posted about rolling back to completely fix the issue (thereby verifying it was software related) and it helped them. They were never given this suggestion by JJP. Sometimes it's not in the interests of the companies to acknowledge a problem publicly. Posting back and forth here is a great way to suss out issues that may end up being wider than one machine, and also, oftentimes, their solutions.

All of that said, positive reinforcement is why I made the "JJP makes the best manuals" thread (because they DO), and why I've congratulated Jack for now shipping Dialed Ins with real Cliffy protectors - the first pinball manufacturer to do so. The "big three" do more right than wrong, so some positivity is required to even out the complaining on the wrong stuff.

#2942 6 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Was is the issue of people copying Cliffy's designs (which I can agree with) you didn't like or just the execution? I've never had any issue with with Stern scoop protectors.

Ripping off Cliff is the problem I have with the ones Stern did. Not cool. The protectors they made are okay, but actual Cliffies would be better.

1 week later
#2985 6 years ago
Quoted from whitey:

Dialed in Owners ???
I'm about to order a DI LE, just met a guy who bought and sold ? He claims he couldn't figure out the game ? Destroy the city or save the city ? Everyone else I talk to really likes the game ??
Thanks

Nothing hard about the game concept. Start modes, finish modes, collect letters, battle for the world.

-1
#2986 6 years ago
Quoted from estrader:

Heard the new ones ship with cliffys but you might want to ask to make certain.

It would be nice if JJP would actually advertise that they're shipping with real cliffies now (as Cliff confirmed they are once that recent pic with them was posted). Why waste that goodwill?

#2992 6 years ago
Quoted from attack7777:

Are there going to be more code updates? The game seems pretty "done" to me.

Yes. There's still a lot of animation missing from the phone mode start and end characters.

#3010 6 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

Here is the Mantis phone scoop protector. Designed to protect the sides that get hammered in normal gameplay. This is Mantis's first winged protector design.

Shouldn't those wings be tapered at the end? They seem kind of thick, like they wouldn't sit flush with the playfield. Do you have a picture with it installed?

#3011 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Awesome ... i want this even know i have cliffy. It tends to mess with the ball where the mantis wont.

Are you sure? That steel is at least 4x as thick as the Cliffy, on three sides. It will make the hole even smaller than a cliffy. Definitely want to see what it looks like installed...

#3014 6 years ago
Quoted from mrgregb123:

I was wondering when Cliffy's marketing guy was going to show up. LMAO.
FYI Mantis solutions are for people who don't want a metal square around the top of the hole (i.e. factory look) and want a solution that never degrades over time. Cliffy's are for people who want an easy install and don't mind replacing the unit after a thousand or so plays. Each serves their purpose. No need to start drama over it man. We all know you love Cliffy's. It's cool.

I love the best solution for a given situation. I have mantis protectors, too, so it's not always Cliffy, but 4 out of 5 times, I'll pick the Cliffy because it's the best protection for the situation.

The metal is thicker on these mantis ones, and the wings aren't tapered, so I don't see the fit being great, and it will make the hole smaller than with a Cliffy, which isn't ideal. That's why I asked if you had a picture of it installed. Seems like posting a picture would be better for your case than calling names.

#3031 6 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

On a lot of games, the thick protector from JJP is creating rejects on the sim card shot. I switched mine to cliffy over the weekend, and I'm still getting a lot of rejections. The other two things to try are adjusting the angle of the bracket that guides the ball down into the hole, or some drop dead foam on the back of it.
It is a hard shot, but on too many games out there the shot is a lot harder than it should be.

Are you sure you don't mean the phone shot? I've had a Cliffy on the SIM shot since it was first available, and rejects are not a problem. HITTING it is another issue, but if I make the shot, it goes in. How strong is your upper flipper?

#3036 6 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

The SIM card shot is probably the only flaw on the machine as far as shots go.
The problem is the upper flipper needs to be powerful enough to make that side ramp shot, but if its set at the perfect power level for that ramp - it's too hard of a shot for the SIM scoop so it hits the back and bounces out. I watched this in detail and its literally just hitting the back of the metal scoop return and bouncing out.
If you turn the flipper power down for the SIM card shot to work perfectly, then it is too weak to consistently land the side ramp shot. I'm going to mess with it and see what I can come up with.

Ours works fine, so it can be adjusted to a happy medium where both shots work well.

#3046 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

That's why I'm asking. Seems ironic that the phone would go and all three EOS switches at the same time.

It was a joke, sorry. There's no connection between the two that matters.

#3050 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

With respect - in order to avoid the impression that this is a “cliffy vs mantis” post, I would avoid referring to the factory protectors as
“Cliffys” since they are not

The older ones aren't, but the Dialed In machines since at least the end of January are confirmed to be shipping with actual Cliffies (which are much thinner than this protector, so a comparison without including a Cliffy is kind of worthless).

#3051 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Haha nice!
So was doing some reading on checking continuity, and seems some people cut the wire housing at certain points to see if there is an issue?
Can I just test all solder points, and then when I hopefully find the short, I can then isolate that line?
Still learning, so would appreciate any advice.
Thanks

You don't need to cut anything. Just put your meter in continuity mode and put one lead on the black wire connection to the flipper EOS before and the other lead on the black wire of the next EOS switch. Once you get a continuity reading, move to the next one doing the same thing. Be sure to check from the first flipper in the chain back to the I/O board, too.

#3053 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

A little confused by this. Can you expand?

Do you have a multimeter? Post a pic of the dial with the settings.

Page C-133 of the manual will be helpful, too, so make sure you have your manual PDF handy.

#3056 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Is this the correct setting?

Yes, and if you have a tone button (that will play a beep when continuity exists so you don't have to look at the display) it will be helpful. I don't seen one on the face.

Power off for safety. You don't need it on for this test.

Power on multimeter and make sure it's set to continuity. Touch the leads of the two probes together and note what continuity looks like on the display.

So on page C-133 you can see that the EOS switches are all using the black wire as common, and it connects to the board at J-601-1 (the first pin of J601 connector). So jam one probe from your multimeter into the top of J601-1 where the wire comes out of the connector top so the probe will contact the metal bit holding the wire into the connector. Then touch the other probe to the black wire on the Left Flipper EOS switch. Make sure you're getting continuity. If so that means that wire segment is good.

Then touch one probe to the black wire connector on the Left Flipper EOS and the other to the Right Flipper EOS. If you're getting continuity, that segment is good.

Then touch one probe to the black wire connector on the Right Flipper EOS and the other to the Upper Right Flipper EOS. If you're getting continuity, that last segment is good.

If any of those segments don't have continuity, that's your problem. Since all three are out, I would expect that the first segment from J601-1 to the first EOS is the one that's out, but that's only a guess.

#3072 6 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

So I am going to put my Dialed In! on site soon and was wondering what (if anything) operators have done about explaining about the phone connection. I was thinking a small card with a VR code for the app and then instructions, then put it on the apron. If anyone's done one I'd be interested to see.
I was also thinking of printing out JJP's rules tree and putting it somewhere.

We put a little instruction sheet on the left side above the rules on the apron that explained how to connect up. Some people tried it, but most gave up because it's still pretty flaky to connect and work every time. Needs more work.

#3090 6 years ago
Quoted from CaptMonkeyPants:

Thanks! I thought about putting it that way, but didn't think it was meant to be compressed under the rail. I guess compressing it keeps it from sliding back or forth under the shooter rail. And the little hook/point on the Cliffy gets embedded in the bottom of the rail to keep that end from moving. Makes sense!

It is meant to be compressed under the rail, but you MUST use a clamp on the black rail to hold the protector in place while you tighten the two screws or the installation will fail and the rail will slide out of place over time. The clamp during install is KEY to it staying put. Although in pictures 3 out of 4 are installed wrong and have moved as a result, so you wouldn't be alone...

#3097 6 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

I'm confused about mantis too, never owned a machine with one and why protect the inside of the hole?

Because it keeps the edges from getting ground out from repeated ball traffic. On older games with no protection, you often see like a half ellipse ground into the edge of the hole from traffic over time. But really, on newer pins, I'm in the "protect the top and sides" camp because the playfield clear on many, MANY of the new releases has been shown to be so chip-able. So that puts me in the Cliffy camp for most applications. It's incredible that JJP is actually shipping real Cliffies installed from the factory now on Dialed In. Industry-leading stuff there. They deserve props, for sure.

#3101 6 years ago
Quoted from Cloud7:

I've had my DILE since last July. As of today when QED is all the way to the right, it is now blocking the ball on the wireform ramp. Anyone know what the solution is?

Make sure your lightning bolt hadn't slipped in his hands and/or come off and been reinstalled backwards? It only goes on one way where it doesn't block the wireform that crosses the PF.

If that's not it, a pic would be helpful.

#3103 6 years ago
Quoted from Cloud7:

I should have posted a pic in the first place. Here is what I have going on.

A> Is your target red with a blue sticker on it?! That's weird.
B> Did your QED guy get bent forward on his stand? It seems like it's forward a bit, which is why the bolt is going over the track instead of under if he were leaning a little further back.

#3108 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Ahh...now I remember. QED guy was loose and leaning forward. When I tightened him up it provided enough clearance.
snaroff

That's what it looks like is happening here...

But that blue sticker on a red target is something I haven't seen on other Dialed Ins...

#3111 6 years ago
Quoted from Cloud7:

I will check to see if QED is leaning forward. i didnt notice it leaning while playing. As far as the blue sticker goes, I have one of the first 100 machines off the line. Apparently other people had it too, but it seems it was discontinued.

We have one of the first 20 off the line with a mid-may build date and ours is blue (no sticker)...

#3116 6 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I had a weird one happen tonight. The spring steel flap on the “Bob” trap door (under Station on the playfield) snapped in two. Can’t figure out how THAT happened unless it was hit really hard while partially open, perhaps during a multiball.
Has anyone else had this happen? Anyway I’ll call JJP on Monday. They’ve always been great about supporting my pins.

That's the secret "Crazy Flaps" mode.

#3123 6 years ago
Quoted from rs812:

I was wondering about this, too. Is there any confirmation that the animations will be added at some point?

Yes, those were confirmed to still be on the "to do" list.

#3125 6 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar:

Is there anything else on the to do list? where is the list?

I was curating a list, but someone else started one for 1.50 so I didn't update it. The original list is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-113-bugs-and-features

#3144 6 years ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Can someone give me a quick tutorial on how the skill shot bonuses work? Big points is obvious. But was does "holding spider value x" or "Bonus X" do?

Bonus X is the Bonus multiplier. If you look at the city building with the numbers on it on the backglass screen video, those are the multipliers (2x, 3x, 4x, etc). Getting the skill shot when the Bonus X is lit gives you that, and hitting the side ramp or the SIM hole immediately after gives you the Super Skill shot bonus.

No idea about the Spider, though. That whole part of the game is under-developed, IMO.

#3158 6 years ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

I think he's talking about the ball getting stuck up on the entrance to the ramp (behind the QED guy), ball search will do nothing to help this. Had this happen a lot on my game, hoping when I finally cut off the stupid playfield protector it'll stop the air balls.

It should eventually (after quite a while) give you a new ball to knock the stuck one loose. Patience.

#3166 6 years ago
Quoted from Pale_Purple:

It does a bunch of ball searches then ends your ball and starts the next ball (if you have one left) pretty hard to knock the stick ball loose unless you get lucky with air balls

Less punishing than a permanent scratch in the coating of your glass...

#3236 6 years ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

How is the quality of powdercoat on your machine's lockdown bar? Mine looks a bit like it would have been handpainted with a brush.

Either that's not powdercoating, it's paint, OR the sanding of the lockdown bar pre-powdercoating was not finished out so it was smooth and you're seeing the (very rough) sanding strokes.

#3238 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

I think the raw lockbars were just rough in some batches ....

But that would have to have been REALLY ROUGH to still have those kinds of grooves AFTER powdercoating. The manufacturer should have rejected those completely.

#3240 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Ill have to check mine out when i get home...

The one we got back in May looks nothing like that. Completely smooth.

#3249 6 years ago
Quoted from Spankey:

So one of my flipper springs broke after less than a month. Ordered a few more replacements. Any easy way to get them on without taking entire flipper assembly off?

If it just broke on the end loop, just bend the next coil on that end into a new loop and continue using the spring.

#3265 6 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

At what point do any of the 4 apron lights come on?I never notice them being on.

They were going to be used when they were going to use NFC (near field communication) for the app to verify you're connected, but they changed to Bluetooth, so they're not really used for anything except light shows now.

#3278 6 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

I don’t understand are you saying that the lighting only works on the DI standard version? When will you take orders?

The standards have a flasher for the top of the head, the LEs do not. They were just saying that the topper for the Standards has a cutout to go around the flasher box.

#3280 6 years ago
Quoted from romulusx:

In the words of the great Johnny
Carson I did not know that”

There's a setting for it in the system menu. Something like "Camera Flash Topper" or something. It's nothing special, just a small rectangle with LEDs in it that provides extra light for the selfie mode pictures.

#3283 6 years ago
Quoted from frankmac:

How do you connect cell phone flipper controls?
I have the app downloaded it searches for the machine but no go? Anyone know if it is something in settings?
Thanks

Start the app. Start a new game while holding left flipper button. If it syncs, it should put a little box in the upper corner of the main pinball screen telling you so.

#3288 6 years ago
Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

My keys for the back box will not unlock the back box. I’ve had it open before so I have no idea what’s going on. The key won’t turn the lock. I’ve wiggled, shaked, twisted to no avail. Only other game I have is WOZ and I tried those keys to see if they got switched but those only unlock WOZ. Any suggestions ?

The Dialed In backbox lock is SUPER TIGHT for some reason. If you loosen the screws holding the lock, you should be able to turn the key. Once you get it open, you can bend the lock blade to make the backbox open normally. No idea why they're not doing this at the factory - yours is not an isolated case, we had the same issue with one of the first ones off the line last May, and others have complained about it, too.

#3292 6 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Mine has a “born on” date of Jan 30th, 2018

Clearly it's still an issue, which is weird 9 months after they found out about it, and it being easy to correct at the factory.

#3299 6 years ago
Quoted from venom112:

Anyone know when the next code update will drop? Any details as to new modes or changes? Code is good as is but just curious what’s to come?

At the very least animation on a lot of the scenes on the phone is still coming. Ted (pretty sure it was Ted...) said it was on the list.

#3322 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

So finally got a chance to test continuity for my EOS errors, and found this wire just hanging loosely by the upper flipper. I'm guessing that this should be attached and is responsible for the errors.
Only question is, what lug does it connect to? Inside our out? Based on the lower right flipper, the two black wire goes on the inside lug (closest to coil).
The wireust have snapped off and is now pretty short. Might need to extend it. What gauge is it?
And lastly, here is a photo of the left flipper EOS. Does it look like it is bent open too much? Maybe I should bend it back a bit?

One wire is black and the other is black with a red stripe. Put the broken wire with the one it matches.

#3327 6 years ago
Quoted from PinRob:

Can the backbox LCD’s brightness be adjusted dimmer?

It's already not bright enough, IMO. I don't think there's a way to change the one strip of LEDs at the top of the backglass to make them lower.

You CAN, however, make the insert LEDs less-bright. The options are LOWER, LOW, NORMAL, HIGH. I usually have them set to LOWER or LOW. The other two are ridiculous.

#3331 6 years ago
Quoted from PinRob:

I mean the backbox LCD monitor screen

Yes, there are brightness and contrast controls for the screen itself.

#3332 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Sweet! Soldered it back on and everything seems to be working perfectly. Thank you again for all of your awesome help.

Glad you got it all worked out!

#3335 6 years ago
Quoted from estrader:

Appears the spring is broken. Can I just uncoil at the break and attach to the flipper? Is this just a temporary solution?

That's the way everyone I know does it, and not temporarily.

#3340 6 years ago
Quoted from geoncic:

I apologize if this has already been answered, but I could not find a clear answer.
I am about to purchase a NIB DISE, but was wondering if I would be able to get it through my bedroom door, or if I need to plan on storing in another room. The door measures 29" on the inside if I were to take the door off the hinges. I see the dimensions of the backbox are 29", but I'd like to get an opinion on someone who has one or had to get it into a tight room. Is unbolting the backbox and rotating a bit while strapping it down an option?
Thanks everybody, I've been slowly reading through this thread, so much information! I'm so excited, as this will be my first pin to own myself.

The backbox is actually a hair over 28 3/4" (I just measured top and bottom of the head), so you could theoretically get it through a door that's an actual 29" wide inside.

#3342 6 years ago
Quoted from BladeFury:

After getting the coin door powdercoated it was time to get Modfather to make me a custom cup holder! Now time to get MustangPauls cup light up! Thanks again to Modfather for his awesome work!

That's a LOT of blue LED light. Careful with that as it has been shown to permanently damage retinas due to its unique wavelength.

#3353 6 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Yes I would love to hear about this. The Cliffy phone scoop protector produced way too many brick outs for my liking. It definitely needs some protection though because the wood is getting chewed up. I suspect the Mantis will probably have bricks too though...

Even the 2.0 version that doesn't go into the hole, but stops on the bevel? I had very few rejects with that one. Maybe one in 20? It's about as close to perfect as you can get for an add-on. Maybe one day they'll let Cliff advise on the actual hole shape for maximum protection. The guy knows about a LOT of technical stuff beyond protectors.

#3354 6 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

There is a Dialed In for sale on CL and here is the description:
"... Includes mini-monitor (in the "cell phone") adjustment board that is NOT included with new ones anymore. "
Anyone know anything about this special adjustment board? Is it possible that this board kept the monitor from having issues?

No, it's just a plug-in circuit board that lets you adjust the mini-monitor for the phone. You just plug it into the phone monitor board when you want to adjust it. The buttons on it are MENU, VOL +/-, SOURCE, and POWER. The MENU lets you adjust the monitor brightness/contrast, alignment, etc. The board was only included with the very early machines shipped.

Here's a picture of it:
Control-Board-sml (resized).jpgControl-Board-sml (resized).jpg

#3363 6 years ago
Quoted from branlon8:

Brief subject change to functioning DIs, is it worthwhile going for the multiballs you start with QED, drones or spider ? I have the feeling the points are small in comparison to the normal modes started with the phone scoop.
The other night I played DI with the express intention of not starting any phone scoop modes, but only going for the other multiballs. Unfortunately I was not able to start one single multiball so I haven't been able to answer my own question yet. When trying this I also seemed to get a rather large number of participation awards.
I know you can also activate the Sim Card hole this way too, but it would only seem to make sense if you need another Sim Card and have already played too many phone scoop modes.

For me the multiballs are an annoyance on Dialed In. Dunno why. They just break up the pursuit of each disaster and aren't especially fun to play. If they had more in-multiball objectives and something more than "you're under attack", maybe I could like them. Maybe it's more a commentary on how addictive the disaster modes are...

It's weird, too, because I generally like Multiball modes.

#3364 6 years ago
Quoted from geoncic:

Great news, thanks for the quick reply. I'm crossing my fingers that this one is not 'old stock' at the distributor. I just got confirmation that it should be picked up today! I can not think about anything else, so excited.

I doubt it's old stock, but if it is, you can contact JJP and they will send you the "good" actual Cliffy protectors.

#3366 6 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

What he said^^
I do like the Quantum Chaos and the Armageddon multiballs but the shoot two ramps and lock the balls generic multiballs are not awesome.

Right. I was talking about the "generic" multiballs with "your under attack" happening. Boring/annoying.

#3368 6 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

I do like the way you can postpone the multiball, that feature makes it more fun. I like to postpone multiball, start another mode then start multiball and try to cap it off with a Big Bang before running out of time or draining.

Yes, the delaying makes it better, but only a little. They need more purpose in the story besides avoiding "you're under attack" rays. Like I said, it's weird because usually I'm into Multiball and especially stacking, but Dialed In regular ones are just annoying.

#3370 6 years ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Buy Ninja balls and use them instead of the stock ones which get rough early and scratch the playfield.

If you do that, watch out for them becoming magnetized.

#3378 6 years ago
Quoted from JayLar:

Is there a way to rectify this? I have purchased a lot of them not knowing there were problems like that but am waiting for a new DI so haven't encountered problems yet.

Nope. Just don't use them in games with magnet action.

#3379 6 years ago
Quoted from estrader:

Is the only problem that they stick together or is there a bigger issue it creates?

It can magnetize other metal in the game, and then you have ongoing problems.

#3382 6 years ago
Quoted from JayLar:

So what high quality balls should I buy? I thought Ninja balls were the best ones, but apparently I was wrong

Best for shiny appearance and durability, but not good for a machine with a lot of magnets.

You want the carbon steel balls in a machine with magnets. Something like:
https://ballbaron.com/product/pinball-carbon/

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Led
From: $ 210.00
From: $ 50.00
Cabinet - Other
Inclusive GameWerks
Other
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
Flipper parts
$ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
Side Gig Studios
Other
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Armor and blades
6,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Omaha, NE
$ 3.75
Playfield - Protection
Pinball Mod Co.
Protection
$ 6.00
Cabinet - Other
Pin Monk
Other
From: $ 11.00
From: $ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
From: $ 91.00
Lighting - Led
Lermods
Led
From: $ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
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