Quoted from crwjumper:

Has anyone connected a sub-woofer to Dialed In yet? I just got mine (S/N 900) and am setting it up (Woo-hoo) and have a sub to install. It looks like all of the electronics are now in the head (JJP - always innovating and impoving) but I don't want to remove the screen at least until I've played it a few times. Anyone know how this is done? Thanks in advance!

Quoted from rockrand:

Anybody having trouble hitting the sin shot with the protector,I am and have tryed raising the scoup deflector like someone recommend to do to the sim shot and that was before the protector was s factory idem ,that shot is hard enough but with the protector almost impossible for me and I have tryed holding the ball by hand and still no luck with the shot ,I may have to remove and just protect with clear gorilla tape

Quoted from mrofnoc:

The phone scoop protector made it harder on mine, and even worse as the protector deformed from ball hits. It's worse than it looks in the pic as the top is dented which you can't see real well in the pic. The right side got it worse which I blamed on the mini post, could be wrong, but replaced that post with sleeve like the one to the left of the scoop and removed the protector. Much better now.
The ball kept getting hung up on the skill shot protector, so it had to go as well.
Sim hole protector is great and so is the one for the trough.
No clue what that other one in the kit was for. Shaped like a V and maybe 2 inches long.

Quoted from psexton:

JJP sent me the metal protectors for the phone and sim scoops a couple of days ago. Both scoops already appear to have milar on them and I don't seem to see any issues of wear without having the metal protectors on and they appear to be quite a bit of work to put them on. I am sure it is best to put the metal protectors on but are they really necessary and what exactly would be the issue if I didn't put them on?

Quoted from stpcore:

I have the Cliffy set as well. I may swap it for comparison. The SIM card hole is nearly impossible to hit with the protector on from the upper right flipper (I know...play better). It seems like the only time I collect a SIM card is on a ricochet from the left of theater stand up target so that's where I aim now.

Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

We are looking to buy step stools for our 4 yo twins to play pinball. We have WOZ but don't have our Dialed In yet. Could someone measure the distance between the legs of their Dialed In 10 inches off the ground so we now how wide apart they are. We only have the wide body WOZ for reference. Thanks.

Quoted from crwjumper:

I've had the drone magnet toss it into the SIM scoop. FTW!

Quoted from bigd1979:

Potc only has 2 and one is a diverter style in the orbit and other is back by the chest. They wont be near as active and effect gameplay like di...

Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

Where should lock ramp/station 3 wire form exit to instead of SDTM? Left or right flipper?

Quoted from Gizmonic:

Trap Door fix that worked for me:
» YouTube video
Ron...

Quoted from Concretehardt:

Well shoot the JJP phone scoop protector is starting to bum me out as it has really made the shot much more difficult. I played a bunch of games last night and am getting more frustrated with the rejected shots as I could hit the phone scoop at will without the protector. Any feedback on the Cliffy phone scoop protector, does it also make the shot very difficult to make?

Quoted from jwilson:

My cabinet is also "split" like that in the bottom left side on the front but it's covered by the leg so I just ignored it. It's clearly glued that way from the factory and isn't a stress crack. Game is otherwise flawless.

Quoted from mtp78:

Anyone having issue with the ball being ejected to the shooter lane ? Got my Friday most of the time it takes 3 tries to get the ball ejected, I tried to boost power in settings, Did nothing.
Also having ball hang up issues at switch in front of skill shot plunger. If ball goes in slowly it just stops at switch . Talked to Frank at tech, He never heard of the issue. Its happened about a handful of times

Quoted from moonduckie78:

I think mine are pretty loose as well. Born date 10/5/17. Haven't had any issues with them though.

Quoted from zucot:

Is the monitor supposed to lock into those latches? am I supposed to remove the wood blocks installed above the latches so that they pegs can slide them up and lock into place?

Quoted from bigd1979:

Have my game at 7.0 bc iike them less floaty. Game plays great and is very fast and difficult.

Quoted from focusmediagroup:

I had the same issue and nothing worked until I found this link. http://funwithbonus.com/dialed-in-day-trap-door-issue/
Even in that photo posted, you can see the issue. See that tab sticking straight up in the air in the middle of the yellow arrow? That is the adjustment, and it should be bent over on the plate. Follow that link above to adjust.

Quoted from Damien:

Online. Right out of the box, my diverter wasn't working, B.O.B scoop not closing, wireform does not hold ball and instead hops over into drain, phone scoop ejecting balls super fast one shot, then super slow down the middle the next, two snapped rubbers, the pf is so tight to the cab, that put it back into the the resting position almost takes force that feels like you're going to chipped off the edge of the wood, and of course, those annoying metal protectors that rejects shots more than they protect anything.
I've bought three games NIB, and I've had issues with all unfortunately. I think I have shitty luck with pins. But CGC was so quick to provide support, that I got things up and running quickly. Pretty disappointed with all the issues I have to now work through to get this game running after paying as much as I did!

Quoted from pinhacker71:

Ok. Cliffy sent me the info. Question is do I go for the hole protectors for 54 or the whole set for 100 something. . Not sure what others are for.

Quoted from venom112:

I am on the fence anybody that just got the game with the latest code have impressions. I am looking at Star Wars I like guardians of the galaxy. I know the code is bad right now but where would you rank dialed in? Is it worth 8k or 9k when you can get a stern for between 5-7k depending on the model? Dialed in looks amazing but is it worth the extra money??

Quoted from tryton1000:

Hi Everyone, I'm having this little issue. Sometimes when I turn on the game, I get this Flickering in the Betty light as well as my Lock mod. To fix, I just need to reboot the game. But when it's happening, it seems like the game has low power, The phone scoop seems to just push the ball out, not fling it out like normal, and the flippers seems to have lost power as well. It's really strange. I took a video » YouTube video

Quoted from PinMonk:

The Cliffy 2.0s don't have this issue. Cut the part below the bend at the bevel, file to smooth the edges and you'll have a Cliffy 2.0.

Quoted from mrgregb123:

PSA: Make sure you install mylar or a cliffy at the inlane drops. Because the wireforms drop the ball right on the switch, the wood on each side of the switch gets destroyed quite quickly. It will chip, and then make a black mark that will eventually get ingrained into the wood.
For the cleanest look, get a square piece of thicker mylar and put it right on the center of the inlane switch. Then cut out the open switch area. You won't even know it's there.

Quoted from OnTheSnap:

After much agony flipping between machines I've settled in on a DI LE as my first pin.
Just looking around trying to find the best place to buy. I'm in NorCal, but happy to have it shipped. Is it best to order direct from JJP, or a particular dealer I should look to?
Thanks...

Quoted from colonel_caverne:

this game is clearly a monster drain, isn't it?
and some shot are clearly tough like sim card and vuk shot (don't know why so many shots who seem to be perfect are finally "rejected").
you need to hit the sim card with the ball you play or you loose it for the next.
the ball is really difficult to pass from one flipper bat to the other, really different from stern or B/W.
trying hard but frustrating right now
what are your set up? buble level, outlane, flipper bat..
thanks

Quoted from TheLaw:

That's a bit much. I've had 4 Sims stacked and collected them all. It's hard, becasue it's the key to scoring...makes sense.

Quoted from Eskaybee:

Regarding SIM card shot. I’ve played 2 different DI’s.
First did not have any type of scoop protector and I was hitting SIM shot without too much trouble. I blew that game up for 10+ mil and got to showdown.
The second had the JJP protector and the shot seemed to be Much tougher. I was only able to collect a few SIM cards and only able to get as far as Armageddon.
If I owned the game, I’d be very tempted to remove the protector. Have any owners done this and noticed a difference (for the better) with the success of the shot?

Quoted from FlippyD:

Two of the LEDs around my DI's phone seemed to have gone dead. They don't come on in test mode either. I reseated the CAT5 cables on both ends, no change. Should I just open a ticket and get some new LEDs?

Quoted from VividPsychosis:

So... this is NOT a paid advertisement :eye roll towards the haters:. Now that we got that out of the way. I wanted to share my first ever experience with Pinstadium lights. The package came well prepared and organized. I did about 10 minutes of phone help with Dialed In because it’s just a tad more complex than plug and play but easy enough for someone who has 0 mechanical ability. With that said. Here are 2 photos in 100% dark room. 1st is with 75% blue and 100% white. The second is 100% white settings. AEnjoy! This is definitely a top three mod for me now going into the future behind pdi glass and a color dmd. It looks even better in person!

Quoted from Strummy:

Iis the bottom right led out on my phone?

Quoted from Damien:

So, here's an email I just received from Mirco regarding the lines on the pf:
"The clearcoat is one of the hardest and best you can find on the market and the mix is done by a robot. So no human error can occur. The damage is caused by the balls. All other ideas are simply wrong. Most of the people who write on pinside don't really know what they are talking about...."

Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Yeah I'd be pissed off don't get me wrong, but at some point you just want the damn thing fixed and I guess that's what they're counting on, right?
I'll tell you what, though. It turns me off from buying a DILE. I'm this close. But there's a lot of machines out there on the market at 1/2 price or less. Why deal with the BS?

Quoted from Deez:

The game is awesome - I'd buy it again even knowing of the minor issues.
So you have no static? - I have 2 prong outlets in my home. I wonder if that's the issue..

Quoted from JayLar:

I'm considering adding these mirrorblades to my Dialed in: http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/jersey-jack-pinball/dialed-in/mirror-blades-for-jersey-jack-pinball-spiegelblech.html
Have anyone tried these blades? Is it hard to do the install? Guess I have to remove the playfield completely? Is that a hassle to do by yourself?

Quoted from JayLar:

Anyone got a video of their DI with mirrorblades?

Quoted from bigd1979:

Tight fit on jjp pins from my experience

Quoted from pinstadium:

Yes there are some mirror blades that are a little thicker than others and that would definitely make for an issue. Can anyone recommend the thinnest quality brands that you feel have excellent clearance?

Quoted from brucipher:

Glad that JJP is now using real Cliffys, but annoyed that I paid for a set of them out of pocket.

Quoted from johninc:

I bought mine from Pinball Side Mirrors when they were on sale. They make a custom set for Dialed In.

Quoted from whitey:

Dialed in Owners ???
I'm about to order a DI LE, just met a guy who bought and sold ? He claims he couldn't figure out the game ? Destroy the city or save the city ? Everyone else I talk to really likes the game ??
Thanks

Quoted from Cloud7:

I should have posted a pic in the first place. Here is what I have going on.

Quoted from OnTheSnap:

This topper from mezel mods looks awesome

Quoted from romulusx:

How much does it cost?

Quoted from Grateful_Pin:

My keys for the back box will not unlock the back box. I’ve had it open before so I have no idea what’s going on. The key won’t turn the lock. I’ve wiggled, shaked, twisted to no avail. Only other game I have is WOZ and I tried those keys to see if they got switched but those only unlock WOZ. Any suggestions ?

Quoted from Damien:

The Test Lab often just wiggles and drops it SDTM still, anyone else getting this?
I feel this game would be a solid 10/10 if the theater wasn't such a center drain and if the SIM shot wasn't such an impossible and improbable shot. Wish it was more like the camera shot in TZ.

Quoted from geoncic:

I received my dialed in today! It arrived in perfect condition. A bit bigger than I expected, but was able to wrestle it in the door with two people.
One question: What's the best way to remove the quantum theater to be able to cut the Mylar away from the magnet? How bug of a job is that?
After a few games, I can already feel rough spots on the Mylar over the magnets.
Thanks!

Quoted from geoncic:

Any tips on adjusting so I can backhand the scoop? It seems like I have enough power, but not the right angle. I either hit too late or it hits the sling post.

Quoted from mamemaster:

LOL right? it looks cool.

Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Placed an order today with my distributor for a Dialed In LE. I asked my distributor if I could get a game with the newest production date possible. Well, he managed to get me a game coming off the line tomorrow so that works! Really excited to get this game.

Quoted from Tranquilize:

TZ's ramps are rear central. It has a second playfield. It's magnets are utilized for specific, aimed game play. It has no side ramp. It's bumpers are close left. It's a widebody. I guess they both have orbits and a right hand scoop?
Not trying to bash; I just think they are apples to oranges. Completely different pins, but they do have that Lowler feel...

Quoted from romulusx:

Silky Smooth

Quoted from bigd1979:

Yep that's y di is so great... it takes the best parts of his prior designs and meshes them all togeather in a total package that only jjp wld/cld do. Throw in all the lcd screens and today's tech and rgb lighting and you have a masterpiece imo. I really cant think of anything id change bc its so dam good.

Quoted from bigd1979:

Id try messing with your upper flipper alignment and strength bc i can make my sim shot fairly often.

Quoted from Tranquilize:

I dont' find that flipper power makes any difference with the sim shot. What makes a big difference is if you have the JJP protector on the sim shot or an authentic Cliffy. When I played a proto machine last year, it had no protector at all, and I could make the shot direct maybe 20% of the time. Mine has the JJP protector, and I make the shot direct maybe 5% of the time. I would imagine with a Cliffy it would balance somewhere in the middle at 12%. I would find this percentage acceptable, considering the value of the shot and the fact that flukes happen.

Quoted from msj2222:

I am going to pick a DILE up and was wondering what I should be looking for as far a trouble areas or concern. Thanks in advance for any input

Quoted from andrewket:

Shots to the theater are suddenly being dropped by the magnet and falling SDTM on my DI. It used to throw the ball up and around with the occasional drop down. I read the posts about cutting out the mylar, but I don’t think that’s the issue as the magnet is able to hold the ball just fine.
Anyone know the fix for this one?

Quoted from gliebig:

Thanks. I was reading it briefly. I found where it describes what to do, but not how they are intitiated...
Quick Multiballs
•Quick Drones Gone Wild Multiball:
o Hit drone standup to drop items. 3 super jackpots to light SIM card.
o Jackpots for each Drone hit. Super Jackpot is in the theatre (dropped by drone after collecting a jackpot).
•Quick High Voltage Multiball
o Hit the moving target for jackpots. 15 jackpots to light SIM Card.
•Quick Monkey Wrench Multiball
o Sneak past mechanic for jackpot. 3 Jackpots lights SIM Card. During this multiball Betty will be raising and lowering her wrench.
o During this multiball you must hit the left ramp and get your ball past Betty. She will be raising and lowering her wrench throughout the multiball in attempts to block your shot.
• NOTE: Any of the three Quick Multiball modes can stack up with Under Attack Multiball, and vice versa. As a result, shots that advance towards Under Attack Multiball can be made during Quick Multiball. More importantly, modes can be stacked, re-qualified, and started during any Quick Multiball, unlike Under Attack Multiball. This rule also applies for the three Crazy Modes.

Quoted from Damien:

Anyone think that a software update including a ball save for ejects from the phone that go SDTM would be a good idea? I know they did this on Ghostbusters.
Also, maybe having Chaos In QC having some sort of impact on the progress of your game, or possibly spitting out a SIM if you complete enough an objective during?

Quoted from Tranquilize:

I can see this for newbs, but I disagree with nerfing the rules. The game is way more fun when there is intense pressure to score a sim and/or relight kickback. I also dislike easy add a ball rules. On location though, these would be good settings to encourage coin drop.

Quoted from bigd1979:

Picked up a iron maiden pro yesterday and while its fun with neat layout.... di is so much better playing and just has so much more to it. The stern pin just feels cheap and very very basic compared to jjp pins. I know its the pro but even the premium /le sterns dont hold a candle to jjp imo. Both have their places but ill gladly pay 8k + for jjp pins.

Quoted from bigd1979:

Dont get me wromg maiden is fun but cld have been amazing with a little more b.o.m.

Quoted from rai:

Are you guys moving the Bob sign so you can see it? Where is the link to how to?

Quoted from rai:

I hate to drill holes, wish JJP had caught that during design.

Quoted from mrgregb123:

The code in this game is not deep. It's typical Pat Lawlor, which unfortunately is the same exact formula he's used for 25 years: Do thing, start mode, complete mode, with multiball sideshow. TAF and DI are practically the same rules.
TAF = Hit bear kick ramp to light mode
DI = Hit QED guy to light mode
TAF = Hit chair to start mode
DI = Hit phone to start mode
TAF = Complete all modes to start Tour the Mansion
DI = Complete all modes to start LITZ....er, Armageddon
DI adds in the SIM cards to extend the difficulty and longitivity of the game. But difficulty and deep code are not the same thing. Deep code? TSPP, Walking Dead, Iron Maiden, even Metallica.
Full disclosure: I own DILE. But I recommend buying used if you do, because the game has not held its value over the year or so it's been in production.

Quoted from Number41:

Hello DI fans!
I've only gotten to play the game a few times, but I recently had the chance to illustrate some cool Dialed In! artwork for Pintastic New England 2018. Gabe D'Annunzio got permission from JJP to use their game for a limited edition 3-color screen print poster and the reception was very positive (even from Jack himself). I ended up making a full color version (as seen here) for additional posters, t-shirts, pint glasses, banners and more. It was fun to put my own spin on the characters and see the art on all of our merchandise. Just thought it might be cool to share with fans and owners of the game here. Thanks!
-Joel

Quoted from branlon8:

I am really diggin’ that Mezel Mods Pop Bumper Building - seen in Post 4814. Can somebody describe how it lights up and when ? I understand it lights up with the pops, but does it also light up at other times ? Does the color change along with the rest of the lighting? It has lights inside and on top?
I have never been much in to mods, especially ones which need electricity. I have read that some of the problems with Stern Spike have been associated with people adding mods. Is that a danger with JJP ? or do these games have amps to spare for such mods?

Quoted from Owlnonymous:

I just got a Dialed In Standard. Out of the box I had to adjust the trap door like above, as it was staying open. I also had to fix the left ramp switch before the divertor, as it was not registering every time. Also adjusted the QED guy switch to make it more sensitive. And rotated the BOB sign to make it more visable to the player. Now the game is playing amazing.
I'm not normally a mod type of guy, but think the game could use a few LED/RGB mods to make it look like the LE. I'm considering the pop-bumper tower, to light up that back left corner. I def' want to do the LERmods backbox light. What mods are essential?
While you can adjust a few coils, there are still some changes I would like to make. Like being able to lower the kickback coil below 6. Amy hoot, like my TNA, I will be streaming this game often. I hope to capture both the phone and quantum theater for the stream. Come hang and get C R A Z Y!
http://twitch.tv/owlnonymous

Quoted from gliebig:

How do yall catch the ball when it shoots out of the phone? I try to catch it on the right flipper but it usually bounces off. I have the hardest time with ball control on this game sometimes.

Quoted from bondavi:

I realized Jen at JJP said "the last of the DILE's" - as in LE's. Does that mean only the Standard will be in production and any one off special editions?

Quoted from Chalkey:

Is there a way to set the theater to throw the ball up every time? When it lets it go it always drains SDTM.

Quoted from BigStiffy:

I'm thinking about adding an external sub to my Dialed In. For those that have done this, does it improve the audio at all? Is there a way to hook up a subwoofer cable directly to the computer, or do I need to plan on using one of those low pass filters connected to the cabinet speaker?

Quoted from ToucanF16:

Ok, I haven’t read this thread, so please don’t stone me if the answer is hidden in here someplace.
I just picked up a DILE and can’t get the backbox open. I’m positive it’s the right key. The key fits and turns a little, but I don’t want to turn it too hard being afraid to break something. Any tricks to get this thing open?

Quoted from shiffdog:

I agree with this - if you fail to bring a disaster mode into Under Attack multiball, it feels like you're kind of stuck, and you just have to get UA multiball out of the way before you can make any further progress. Stacking UA multiball with a Quick Multiball would be one thing to do but the Quick Multiballs are hard to reach, especially early in the game when the first UA multiball tends to occur.
In general, it seems to me the game would be enhanced if some of the features were a little more valuable relative to the modes and SIM cards; selfies, emojis, spiders, trains, drones, etc. are all really cool features but they are dwarfed in value by the modes and SIM cards. (And since I suck at hitting the SIM card shot, it would be nice to have other stuff to shoot for!)

Quoted from Pinballpal:

Did any buddy figure out any more fixes for this issue other than puting tape on the ramp flap to smooth out the transition.

Quoted from Allibaster:

I spent my afternoon today drinking beer (I like beer!) and adding LED strips to the back box. It turned out great! It was easy, but took awhile. Again, beer. The tranlite art on this game is awesome. Who would've thought? Check it out!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Hogbog:

We will be releasing the code shortly after Expo, after it has been thoroughly tested there. Yes, it will be playable on our DI machines there.
Cheers!

Quoted from FatPanda:

To add, during the install of the LED strip, I turned the machine on to test the lights, but turned it off before fully booting (a couple times), plus I removed the phone scoop a few days after the install of the lights to install the Mantis scoop protector. I know a bundle of wires runs under where the phone scoop is, but I've checked all the connections there and all seems fine.

Quoted from FatPanda:

I used this LED strip
amazon.com link »
I soldered 18ga wiring from + to +, and - to - from the old strip to the new strip. I did a second length across the top, then soldered 2 separate lengths to run down the left side and the right side. On all of the new strips, I made sure to hot glue the soldered wires and us electrical tape around the solder points. On the original strip I just got glue the wiring at the solder points. I can peel it up and try to get some tap underneath so that way its not touching the metal case.
I disconnected the left and right strips so I can move the screen, but the second top strip is still connected.

Quoted from Allibaster:

Can someone put on their Google Drive in a shared folder? Pretty pretty please?!
[email protected]