I went to jersey jacks site and was unable to load the model comparison doc. Does anyone know where this is that I can look at? I also checked Lloyd’s link and it was to the same doc. Just loads up blank.
Also. Is there a full blown computer in dialed in? Or is it a micro computer? Thanks.

Thanks, that answers my questions. i see all versions come with the shaker motor, that's nice.

It looks like your blue plunger link is shattered. looks like a standard blue slingshot link.that could be why the switch isn't registering correctly, not returning all the way.

I would assume the switch just notifies the game the door is open and doesn’t control the stop. The coil firing is a pretty sudden thing. Lowering the power would learn the damage but not control the throw. Does the coil and stop have any adjustment. Aka Lodoen it and move the coil and coil stop left? Or is the stop removable possibile to replace with a longer stop?
I would also ensure the coil bracket screws are not loosened.

Thanks Lloyd. The coil stop is what ever the plunger hits when energized to stop travel. Now I can see the whole assembly. It’s a fixed stop. By putting something in there to go on top of the coil stop basically lessens the travel of the plunger and lengthens the stop. The only time I would be concerned with that idea is for a flipper. Maybe a pop. Where they hit so hard they mushroom the plunger and stop over time. That’s a 26-1500 coil. So soft hit. Your safe there. A pop coil has half the windings and is more powerful.
I’d also like to note I don’t have a DI yet. It’s on my want list and joined this club to check out the game issues etc. I can be prepared to check common areas out if I find a pre owned game. But I do have a YouTube channel “pinball mayhem” I will make videos of common fixes when I get one.
Ed

Hi. I too have been on the fence getting a DI. I decided to sell a couple pins to find one a couple weeks ago and going to wait a couple weeks with cash in the pocket to ensure I’m not making a rash decision. Also hoping a decent one comes up closer to me. My main concern is code right now. It appears they are adding new things. But also alot of bugs. I heard a podcast where they mentioned improving the phone animations so I’m hoping the future code releases are better. I would also like to see features added to the BT app. Seems like alotnof opportunity there.

Ha, GB is actually a driving force behind me getting a DI. I do enjoy playing GB, but i want a game that won't be a dick and allow me to progress in modes when I'm doing good, rather than give me the middle finger. I have been busy shopping a game to make some room so just catching up.
On the bugs comment, i have been watching this thread for about two weeks (wish) and it seems like the majority of the posts are about 1.61 bugs and issues, I am assuming 1.6 was an official release (not following ht game before) and has improvements over 1.57. Im also unaware if the aforementioned podcast animations update for the phone has hit or not. I remember hearing a large update came or was around the corner.
As with another comment, I am keeping an eye out for a LE in the 8000 range but little closer drive than 8 plus hours. I don't get to play this much because there is no local scene other than me and friends, and no one has any JJP. I hope to make a trip next weekend and play some DI before i commit.

I’m curious. Does anyone know what’s happening to the phones? Could it be a bad cap or voltage circuit. Something that may be bullet proofed? Could it be a generic part that accepts 5-20 volts dc with internal regulater that’s getting cooked with a max voltage scenario? Also anyone have a thought on picking up some spare drones and phone parts from the Chinese mfg for future spares?

How about a nyliner? Pending on how small the gap is I could turn one out of delrin if nothing is commercially avalible. I would be afrade tape would deteierote quickly and also can make it sticky.

I can see your point. a byliner would be best because it can be got easily for everyone. but even small metal tubing, i have various sizes, but will have to get a game first. sorry i can't help out at the moment more. I make youtube videos, so once i get a game i can make a few on fixes i find. i definitely will tackle this first since i don't want my trap door breaking. I am also a bit concerned about the phone logentivity. Is it the screen or the entire assembly that goes bad? does the outside lights still work just a black screen?

Thanks for the info, do you happen to have a link to the motors? i wouldn't mind having some as spares.

Thanks.

I wouldn't get those either. since Gogdog is in the US your best bet for small quantity is amazon. quick and not too overpriced. If you have prime bundle it and she for free. Since the load on these is minute you should be able to get away with a 1/8 watt or a 1/4 watt. the 2 watt is simply huge. If you go with a ire wound rather than carbon resister it will be about half the size. Is i recommend a 1/4 watt wire wound resistor at 100 ohms.
Places i order, mouser electronics, good selection, but shipping, so order larger. Digi-key same as mouser. great plains electronics. he specializes in pinball parts, has a smaller selection but also has connectors and parts etc. Slower to ship. ALL of these are quicker than allied express in the US.

One last note. flx was nice enough to post pictures and instructions, but also note in his picture you can see the resisotor bands, this is really easy to decode online to figure out the value and tolerance. by judging size you can learn the wattage. most electronics we will deal with are 1/4 watt with some 1/2. more than that is in power supply sections or special opto power boards from WMS.

oh and if you need 4 buy 10 or more, 100 ohm is a really useful value. Last time i needed some i get them from mouser and just got 100, dirt cheap.

My 2 cents. The op stated he cleaned the eos contacts with sand paper. From what I see those are not high voltage. And sanding them actually ruined them. Same for flipper switches if they are not high voltage. Should be cleaned with paper and maybe alcohol. Like rubbing a business card through while lightly pinching them together. I would guess the op may have a non closing or registering eos and the coil is getting hot because of it. Then getting weaker through a game.

Oops. My bad. ya that should be fine for cleaning. I guess my brain got hung up on the sanded words. Sorry man.

My thoughts. Loose connection somewhere. If the eos is getting activated when flip that’s not the issue then. What about a failed solder joint on the coil. Try tugging on wires while testing.
I forget is it only the one flipper with issues or both? Might not even hurt justbto dissassemble everything. Clean it all real good and reassemble. Ohm our connections wile shaking wires etc.