(Topic ID: 177016)

Dialed In Owners and Fans Club

By goren1818

3 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 10,173 posts
  • 547 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 minutes ago by waldo34
  • Topic is favorited by 193 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

23 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 Welcome to the club Posted by goren1818 (3 years ago)

Post #14 Game play video. Posted by solarvalue (3 years ago)

Post #800 What happens if you don't cut mylar off magnet core posts Posted by crwjumper (2 years ago)

Post #805 Cut mylar off magnet posts at drones and theatre Posted by cooked71 (2 years ago)

Post #1026 Ball adjustment for tilt Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

Post #1079 Adjustment for flipper that feels "clunky" Posted by spida1a (2 years ago)

Post #1128 Left inlane post does NOT need a rubber sleeve! Posted by Mageek (2 years ago)

Post #1151 Adjusting the kickback Posted by pinstadium (2 years ago)

Post #1246 Another ball trap location Posted by Vyzer2 (2 years ago)

Post #1253 Velcro fix for right ramp hangup Posted by cooked71 (2 years ago)

Post #1258 Detailed pictures for adjusting a misbehaving trap door Posted by foobeer (2 years ago)

Post #1332 Getting access to computer in backbox on Dialed In Posted by hank527 (2 years ago)

Post #1347 Ball trap location. Posted by Kevlar (2 years ago)

Post #1377 Fix for USB at the coin door not working Posted by Pinhead1982 (2 years ago)

Post #1391 Fix for Tilt Bob not working all of a sudden Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

Post #1431 Adjustment point to grease for trap door to operate smoothly Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Post #1451 Adjusting arm on Quantum Mechanic Posted by vireland (2 years ago)

Post #2507 How to get in backbox to check audio connections Posted by pinstadium (2 years ago)

Post #2661 DIY Lighting how-to for sides of Dialed In backglass Posted by lyonsden (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#6617 1 year ago

I went to jersey jacks site and was unable to load the model comparison doc. Does anyone know where this is that I can look at? I also checked Lloyd’s link and it was to the same doc. Just loads up blank.
Also. Is there a full blown computer in dialed in? Or is it a micro computer? Thanks.

#6625 1 year ago
Quoted from KingPinGames:

I found one for you
scroll down just a bit and you will see it on the right.
as far as i remember i think they are atx motherboards.

Thanks, that answers my questions. i see all versions come with the shaker motor, that's nice.

#6631 1 year ago
Quoted from DonnieDarko:

So I looked at that first and the other day I spent a lot of time centering the solenoid to little effect. See the second picture below. I already made sure this was working 100% which is what confused me, that no matter how many times I tested the mechanism, it worked from test mode but not in game mode
My son looks like he has come to the rescue. It looks like the problem wasn't the mechanism but rather the switch on the main solenoid. I bent the long arm of the switch down. It appears the switch wasn't detecting when BOB was open, hence why it was recording the device as broken (in the first image)
Thank you to all those that responded and led me towards the correction of the problem[quoted image][quoted image]

It looks like your blue plunger link is shattered. looks like a standard blue slingshot link.that could be why the switch isn't registering correctly, not returning all the way.

1 week later
#6729 1 year ago

I would assume the switch just notifies the game the door is open and doesn’t control the stop. The coil firing is a pretty sudden thing. Lowering the power would learn the damage but not control the throw. Does the coil and stop have any adjustment. Aka Lodoen it and move the coil and coil stop left? Or is the stop removable possibile to replace with a longer stop?
I would also ensure the coil bracket screws are not loosened.

#6738 1 year ago

Thanks Lloyd. The coil stop is what ever the plunger hits when energized to stop travel. Now I can see the whole assembly. It’s a fixed stop. By putting something in there to go on top of the coil stop basically lessens the travel of the plunger and lengthens the stop. The only time I would be concerned with that idea is for a flipper. Maybe a pop. Where they hit so hard they mushroom the plunger and stop over time. That’s a 26-1500 coil. So soft hit. Your safe there. A pop coil has half the windings and is more powerful.
I’d also like to note I don’t have a DI yet. It’s on my want list and joined this club to check out the game issues etc. I can be prepared to check common areas out if I find a pre owned game. But I do have a YouTube channel “pinball mayhem” I will make videos of common fixes when I get one.

1 week later
#6813 1 year ago
Quoted from holminone:

I’m SERIOUSLY thinking about pulling the trigger on a Dialed In LE to complement my STTNG. My 16 year old daughter (and key sponsor on the purchase!) and I had an epic 8 mile bike ride out to The Flipper Room to check it and others out. She laughed out loud several times and score over 300k on her very first game and collected a SIM card on her first disaster.
Huge Lawlor fan. Super reluctant to buy new especially in light of the new tax.
What say you all? Waste of money or good idea?
[quoted image]

Hi. I too have been on the fence getting a DI. I decided to sell a couple pins to find one a couple weeks ago and going to wait a couple weeks with cash in the pocket to ensure I’m not making a rash decision. Also hoping a decent one comes up closer to me. My main concern is code right now. It appears they are adding new things. But also alot of bugs. I heard a podcast where they mentioned improving the phone animations so I’m hoping the future code releases are better. I would also like to see features added to the BT app. Seems like alotnof opportunity there.

#6826 1 year ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

the more funny (take this friendly of course) is that you have a GB in your gameroom ... (i like it too & own it before)

Ha, GB is actually a driving force behind me getting a DI. I do enjoy playing GB, but i want a game that won't be a dick and allow me to progress in modes when I'm doing good, rather than give me the middle finger. I have been busy shopping a game to make some room so just catching up.
On the bugs comment, i have been watching this thread for about two weeks (wish) and it seems like the majority of the posts are about 1.61 bugs and issues, I am assuming 1.6 was an official release (not following ht game before) and has improvements over 1.57. Im also unaware if the aforementioned podcast animations update for the phone has hit or not. I remember hearing a large update came or was around the corner.
As with another comment, I am keeping an eye out for a LE in the 8000 range but little closer drive than 8 plus hours. I don't get to play this much because there is no local scene other than me and friends, and no one has any JJP. I hope to make a trip next weekend and play some DI before i commit.

#6849 1 year ago
Quoted from rubberducks:

Likely just a widely available OEM part available on AliExpress, like the drones. So probably not.

I’m curious. Does anyone know what’s happening to the phones? Could it be a bad cap or voltage circuit. Something that may be bullet proofed? Could it be a generic part that accepts 5-20 volts dc with internal regulater that’s getting cooked with a max voltage scenario? Also anyone have a thought on picking up some spare drones and phone parts from the Chinese mfg for future spares?

#6864 1 year ago

How about a nyliner? Pending on how small the gap is I could turn one out of delrin if nothing is commercially avalible. I would be afrade tape would deteierote quickly and also can make it sticky.

#6878 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Oh...and I really doubt something would need to be specially made. I'm sure that there is a readily available, 20 cents by the foot piece of tubing or pipe at Lowes that everyone could go get that has the right interior/outer diameter. One tiny cut and a little bit of super glue and you would be in business.
That would...require taking out the arm and bringing it to Lowes and trying things out for a while. Hopefully someone that has to take the arm out for whatever reason would be willing to go the extra mile and do that bit of trial and error research...

I can see your point. a byliner would be best because it can be got easily for everyone. but even small metal tubing, i have various sizes, but will have to get a game first. sorry i can't help out at the moment more. I make youtube videos, so once i get a game i can make a few on fixes i find. i definitely will tackle this first since i don't want my trap door breaking. I am also a bit concerned about the phone logentivity. Is it the screen or the entire assembly that goes bad? does the outside lights still work just a black screen?

#6905 1 year ago
Quoted from flx:

All my drones also died after a few months of usage, but I didn't notice it until recently when another Dialed In owner asked me, if my drones are broken too. Replacement drones from the european distributor are way too expensive, and getting a warranty exchange is a struggle too, so I simply ordered new motors from AliExpress in China. 12 replacement motors incl. shipping will cost just 11 USD. that's a fraction of the cost to ship the broken drones back to the distributor, and I don't have to argue with those guys anymore
There's a discussion about broken drones burried somewhere deep in a very long "general dialed in discussion" thread of a german pinball forum, where someone recommends to add resistors. The motors are connected in series, so if one motor fails, the other 3 motors will stop working as well. It's possible that the voltage supplied to the drones, or voltage spikes, cause damage to the motors. Or maybe those dirt cheap toy motors are just not built for durability and will die regardless of voltage anyway.
A solution could be to simply add a resistor in series to reduce the voltage, as pictured in the photo. When you have to open the drones to replace the motors, it's pretty simple to add an additional resistor. The only drawback is, that the LEDs of the drones will stop working (or barely visible), because the voltage is too low for operation. But that's not an issue for me, as I didn't even notice the existence of those small LEDs until I opened the drones
I'm not sure if that "Matrix brightness adjuster" will work, because if it's intended to dim LED lights, it's probably not a resistor, but a controller which adjusts the pulse width, as you cannot dim LEDs by simply lowering the voltage.
I have replaced all my motors and added resistors. Although time will tell if this is a permanent fix, or if they will break again.[quoted image]

Thanks for the info, do you happen to have a link to the motors? i wouldn't mind having some as spares.

#6909 1 year ago
Quoted from flx:

"Cheerson CX-10 CX10 CX-10 CX-10A V646 V676 RC Part CW/CCW Motor For Cheerson CX-10 Hubsan H111 RC Quadcopter Parts"
I had ordered these, it's a set of 4 motors:
but also available from other vendors on aliexpress. you can even order the whole drone incl. remote control and then rip it apart.


#6920 1 year ago

I wouldn't get those either. since gogdog is in the US your best bet for small quantity is amazon. quick and not too overpriced. If you have prime bundle it and she for free. Since the load on these is minute you should be able to get away with a 1/8 watt or a 1/4 watt. the 2 watt is simply huge. If you go with a ire wound rather than carbon resister it will be about half the size. Is i recommend a 1/4 watt wire wound resistor at 100 ohms.
Places i order, mouser electronics, good selection, but shipping, so order larger. Digi-key same as mouser. great plains electronics. he specializes in pinball parts, has a smaller selection but also has connectors and parts etc. Slower to ship. ALL of these are quicker than allied express in the US.

One last note. flx was nice enough to post pictures and instructions, but also note in his picture you can see the resisotor bands, this is really easy to decode online to figure out the value and tolerance. by judging size you can learn the wattage. most electronics we will deal with are 1/4 watt with some 1/2. more than that is in power supply sections or special opto power boards from WMS.

#6921 1 year ago

oh and if you need 4 buy 10 or more, 100 ohm is a really useful value. Last time i needed some i get them from mouser and just got 100, dirt cheap.

#6988 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

They have a little one when they are new.
His is worn. A lot. See the mushroomed edge on the left side of his spot ?
LTG : )
[quoted image]

My 2 cents. The op stated he cleaned the eos contacts with sand paper. From what I see those are not high voltage. And sanding them actually ruined them. Same for flipper switches if they are not high voltage. Should be cleaned with paper and maybe alcohol. Like rubbing a business card through while lightly pinching them together. I would guess the op may have a non closing or registering eos and the coil is getting hot because of it. Then getting weaker through a game.

#6990 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

I didn't use sandpaper....I used construction paper because its just what I had here. I thought it would be as effective as a business card (and not abrasive). I just pinched the leafs together with my fingers and pull the piece of paper through it.
And.....I did some more testing today. The EOS is getting activated because I just look at the switch history in the menu. Every time the flipper is firing the EOS switch registers in the history....so...I don't think that's it.

Oops. My bad. ya that should be fine for cleaning. I guess my brain got hung up on the sanded words. Sorry man.

My thoughts. Loose connection somewhere. If the eos is getting activated when flip that’s not the issue then. What about a failed solder joint on the coil. Try tugging on wires while testing.
I forget is it only the one flipper with issues or both? Might not even hurt justbto dissassemble everything. Clean it all real good and reassemble. Ohm our connections wile shaking wires etc.

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