Brand New moving parts and magnets equals lots of metal dust. Two minutes with a rag and BOOM! All gone. Normal.

Fixed em all. The hardest one to fix was the error of balls locking in the train station and not unlocking properly during multiballs. If you're having this error, take off the train station lid and push the plunger all the way in. Does it stay pushed in? I know the fix. You need to adjust the lock screw, a tiny black hex screw where the plunger meets a horizontal stationary bar. Push the plunger all the way in to expose the screw. Loosen it, wiggle the plunger to adjust where it should be on the horizontal bar, tighten it back up and check. You should be good to go now.

Thanks to LTG with the rest of the stuff. That was awesome. You're the best, Lloyd.

Could you tell me what numbers I should see when testing the ohms on the led? I did switch the connectors around,left onto the right,right onto the left.When I did this, now the left LED worked,but the right one was dead,so maybe it's a broken wire somewhere down the line. I also replaced the LED,and the small wire harness,that JJP sent me,that hooks into the top of QED guy.I'm guessing that the wire,below this new harness, inside of QED guys legs,or under the PF,could be broken.
I even checked under the PF for a lose connection,but I didn't see any problem.I'm not about to start taking apart the QED guy, to see if there's a cut in the wire,that runs through him.Since this causes no problems while playing,I'm going to leave well enough alone.
Thanks for the suggestions.

Anyone else get transparent vertical lines moving across the phone screen at times? They aren't very visible and seem to come and go on mine.

Does anybody know when to expect the new firmware? I am looking forward especially for the sim cards to be available during chaos...

Besides this I am happy with the current firmware, a little bit more animations would be nice, but not mandatory. Also I do not expect to see the new theatre multiball very soon

In general my DI is playing very nice, but I have a few issues coming up all the time:
- drone motors break - I have a defect motor almost every week... No airballs, just motors quitting their job.
- metal flap of the BOB trapdoor breaking. This happened two times, now. I guess its because of the playfield protector. But even with the little higher playfield, the flap should not break...

After changing the balls from the originals to high gloss low magnetic ones, the game is much faster and also the already fixed problems with the right loop and ramp (ball jumping and getting blocked in loop and ball jumping over the switch and not being counted at ramp) occurs again. I guess I need to reduce the flipper power a little, but to be honest I would like to stay with the defaults...

No idea, but hopefully now that The Hobbit code update is just about complete, Dialed In will be next and coming soon. Still needs a lot of animations on the phone, the new multiball implemented (which was recently added to the official rules diagram), and some additional polish.

You don't? Why is that? This was the one thing I was looking forward to the most.

IMO the points during jackpots are lackluster. I'd like to see everything doubled. I don't think that's a setting within the pin itself, right? I looked, didn't find anything.

New animations would be nice. I wish more pertinent info would be displayed on the phone during modes, such as the next shot or something.

I think mine was beyond a quick rag wipe down. I ended up just replacing all rubbers and will clean regularly.

Now if I could only find a way to keep these clean..

IMG_20180726_150331 (resized).jpg

Just because I cannot remember one game in which I played all theater modes. So I do not expect to access the multiball very soon...

The animations would be nice, sure. And maybe there are other enhancements that make sense, like points for special things like jackpots, but the one thing I currently really hate, is when I have some SIM cards ready and several would be collected during chaos and are just ignored.

Are you sure the theater MB requires starting all theater modes?

Hm. This was my first impression when I saw the new flowchart, as the QTM is after all four TMs are flowing back in one line. But now, after you question this, I agree. It does not say ... start all TMs like ..start 6 (all) disaster modes for Chaos (Armageddon). So most likely I was wrong and the QTM starts after every TM that is mastered.

In this case I look forward to the new multiball, as it makes it far more attractive to play and focus the TMs.

Thanks!

annoying

How do yall catch the ball when it shoots out of the phone? I try to catch it on the right flipper but it usually bounces off. I have the hardest time with ball control on this game sometimes.

Change the setting on the kick out if it’s coming out too fast.

What are some prizes you've won from the theater? I won a "sim card is lit" and then later in the day a "big bang is lit" award.

Are there other cool awards I didn't know about by collecting the packages in the theater?

IMO the best is light extra ball

I'm not sure we can say until the code finally comes out. It could be that you have to start all TMs to get to the MB, or it could be you have to do well on a particular TM, perhaps hitting a minimum score. I would kind of like that idea as right now, I don't really concentrate on the TMs when I get to them. This would make me do it.

I find I can drop catch it quite nicely. As Lermods said, you may want to lower the kickout power just a bit.

What COLOR is your Phone?

In particular the RED leds surrounding the phone. You can do this with a self test or when multiball is on the phone. When I got my DI the Red LEDs were red. I had a bad led so they sent me a new board. With the new board the RED leds are ORANGE. Also with the new board the leds aren't as vibrant.

The new board was a -05 and the old one was a -03. I'm thinking they switched to the orange leds.

Spiral-bound? Yuck. Perfectbound would not have cost that much and would be a lot more practical long-term.

Mine was the other way around, my first phone which lasted 2 days had orange, or at least very pale red leds. The replacement was much more vibrant, the red being very red. I noticed it instantly.

If no lights on cpu, no fan etc sounds like power supply problem.

I'm wondering how I can get the RED led board replacement and not the orange one. I'm not sure how to know unless the later revs are orange, in which case that's all you will be able to get.

guys - do standard william/bally mirror blades fit on this game? I feel like they do and have an extra pair so wanted to confirm.

EDIT - it appears they do. I checked in this thread (earlier posts indicate yes). I'll try mine and if they don't sell them..

It seems like they are different. I had to order game specific from the dropdown menu. Not positive thou

yes, they should fit

Definitely the other way around. My first phone was from summer 2017 and it was very orange. Replacement was sent in December 2017 and it is red and the colors are MUCH more vibrant. Later revs are RED, not orange. Maybe they sent you older parts?

My replacement phone,has more orange in it than my first phone did.I replaced my first phone,because every once in awhile,I had to restart the game,because the screen was blank. Now I'm having this issue with my replacement phone.If it doesn't get any worse,I'm okay with having to restart the game, every once in awhile. As far as orange or red,I don't care,as long as the thing works.
It makes me wonder if the problem is with my machine,and not the phone?

Sounds more like the video card than the phone.

All I know is that between the two led boards I have the later rev is orange (Rev 1.05). That doesn’t mean they didn’t switch back to red in an even later rev.

Thanks.

2 of the 3 drones stopped spinning their propellers on my new LE recently. I called and JJP promptly sent out 2 new ones. I installed them yesterday. All fixed!
Excellent.
Hopefully this isn't going to be a reoccurring issue with these tiny electric motors. We will see.

I just had two of the drones (silver ones) stop working. Did they tell you what was causing the problem. I can spin the propeller by hand and it will work a couple of times then stop.

Sounds like it may be a bad batch of drones .... this issue seems to have more recently popped up .

For me it was the black and silver drones. The white one hasn't had an issue. Both of them had power but wouldn't spin the propellers. The LEDs worked. JJP didn't say what the cause was, other than bad drones. The replacements work perfectly. You should definitely call JJP.

I've had problems with the black drone. The lights would work but the propellers wouldn't spin. If I pressed it down they would start spinning. This drone was glued in place by JJP so maybe something went wrong during install. I removed it and glued it back down and it is currently working.

EDIT: Make that NOT working. Gonna contact JJP.

I had the problem with the drone motors a lot in the past. Almost every week or so one of the drones stopped working. The same problem like described before: motors not spinning, LEDs blinking. Moving the rotors a bit, made it work again for a short time.

The motors are cheap china motors normally build into real drones (cheerson cx 10a ??). They are not build to do a lot of start/stop action, but to stay turning during flight. The sliders between stator and rotor are cheap and week. So they are likely to lose contact in special positions.

After exchanging the drones some times, I ordered these motors (you can get them on ebay for a few cents - "CX-10-005"). Just identify the broken motor by moving one after the other until it works again and replace the one. You can do this in a few minutes.

What was interesting on mine is if you would spin 1 motor, they all would start spinning (for a second or two) then quit. This would lead me to believe it wasn't an individual motor.

JJP is sending replacements. After more thought it could be an individual motor drawing excess current because it’s not starting, thus preventing enough current for the other motors.

the four motors are in one circuit. they work to divide the input voltage of ca. 14 Volt to 3.5 Volts per Motor. (Each motor is specified for 4.5 Volts). So if one motor is broken, the circuit is open and all motors will stop. If you move the one broken motor a bit, the circuit closes again and all motors run. My experience is, that a broken motor will stop in this position, where the slider is not closing the circuit.

What’s strange is moving the propeller doesn’t start the others. I have to flip the propeller to get it to start.

Which motors did you order for a few cents? I see these $35 for 124
ebay.com link: wholesale Engines motor Parts for CX 10 FQ777 124 pocket drone CX 10 CX 10A V646

I put it on the apron where it belongs.

LTG : )

Almost page 100!!!!

Yep, don't have djoverpour install your price cards or your pin head may result in damage just kidding. For commercial environment I'd install the card as well as the listed price on screen.

In addition I'd get the Mylar flipper button protectors as well as put a small mylar squares on top of the two sides of the blue rail where the lock-down bar touches.

Finally picked up a NIB DI today.....and one of the legs is too long....and I got to figure out why the coin door thinks it's open when it's not. Fun times.

Measure the legs, three of the short ones might have gotten into your box. Call JJP to get the right leg or legs.

Door open, please check if the two wires/connectors are on the lower big white switch by the left hand of the door opening. Then be sure the flap on the door fully closes it. Check the area for anything unplugged that should be plugged in.

LTG : )

I'll have to go and measure them again but I am pretty sure 3 of the legs are 30 and 1 is like 32".

I connected the wire to the white switch and when I do, it thinks the door is closed when the switch is not pressed. When I press the switch it thinks it is open. I swapped the wires 6 ways to sunday and is still thinks it's open when it's closed. I'll take a look at it again tomorrow when I am not tired as hell lol.

Here is one on a WOZ, bottom switch should be the same.

LTG : )

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