Received my manual yesterday UPS.

Streamed a few games last night... https://www.twitch.tv/videos/286764105

I have a problem maybe someone can help. I am getting an error all of a sudden it says switch matrix #13 theater enter (stuck open) the theater doesn’t register hits. Everything was working with no problem and then all of a sudden just stopped registering. Any idea how to fix? I see there is an opto there

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Perhaps start by finding the connector for the opto under the playfield. With the power off, unplug it and then plug it back together. See if that fixes it and report back.

There should be an opto on the right and left sides near the magnet area. Make sure one didn't pop loose. My left opto came out of its housing and I had to hot glue it back in place.

Thanks I will check it and report back

Two screws remove the clear plastic over the pop bumpers and set aside, a couple lock nuts to remove the plastic on left side of the theater. A couple locknuts and one screw to remove theater and set aside. Then you can check the left and right opto if one popped out of the hole it's stuck in.

LTG : )

This was a huge factor in me buying this game. I knew if things would pop up (and they do) Lloyd would be here. Cheers

Thank you Lloyd much appreciated I will take a look.

So, I’m probably confused but if the opto popped out, wouldn’t the switch be registering stuck closed and not stuck open?

Can you post a picture of the manual?

No. An open switch is one that doesn’t form a closed connection. For an opto to be closed, the receiving side of the opto needs to see the light from the transmitting side. If an opto fell out, the receiving opto will never see the light and therefore be open. Optos are normally in closed position and when a ball rolls through, it opens for short period of time when the light beam is interrupted.

I had this exact problem, unfortunately for me, it wasn’t an opto that came loose. My opto was bad. JJP was good about sending a new one but it took a while and I got impatient. I ordered parts from arrow electronics (optos, molex connectors and pins) and made my own. Let me know if you need any advice as I am very familiar with removing theater and replacing the opto.

Be very careful removing and inserting the optos. They snap into the metal and the little plastic snaps on the opto break easily. Don’t ask how I know.

When you do replace and reinsert optos, put some hot glue on to keep it there. They do this from factory and because this is under the theater, you can’t see it.

Nope.

Think in terms of a connection. If an opto's beam is making a direct hit to its target, that's a closed/completed connection. If the opto is interrupted, like when a ball travels through it, it's "open" because now the connection is incomplete.

Once in a while I get a ball that gets stuck in the train station (lock is not lit). It goes through a ball search and then the ball falls into the locked position, so I have to wait for the 2nd ball search to activate, and the ball finally falls through back into play. Furthermore, when I've locked 2 balls in the train station, the 2nd ball (one in the back) is never released right away. I play a 2-ball multiball until both balls drain, and then wait for another ball search like the one mentioned above.

I did a search for this issue on this thread and only found 1 person to had the same issue. I don't know if anyone else can help me or not.

I love the game to death, but so far I've had FOUR issues and I've only had it a week.

-- Left ramp not always registering
-- Ball falling in sim card scoop but counting as a BOB/Trap Door/Locked Ball
-- Ball stuck in train station
-- Large amount of static in speakers

I bought a JJP because I thought it had superior build quality, but so far the Iron Maiden in the same room is flawless. I called JJP 3 times with 0 responses.

I'm a little sour.

I hate to tell you, but ... it sounds like you bought a pinball machine. We have a support group

Sounds like most are simple adjustments... my dile has been great threw 2k plus games and the iron maiden pro has needed alot of adjustments. Luck of the draw i guess but expect di to have more as there is hardly nothing to iron maiden which leads to minimal issues.

Thanks for the explanation about optos. It makes sense. In my simple mind, I was thinking of them like other switches. When you activate them, they are closed. But I guess it is opposite with optos which, now that I think about it, makes perfect sense.

Right side rail looking pretty shitty, and left starting up...

Anyone know how to prevent this further?

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Need to tighten lock bar reciever so lock bar dont move around... i also added foam on the lockbar corners.

Call Lloyd direct. He's great.
9529554121

So, here's something annoying. I had two SIM cards lit and started Chaos in Quantum City. During CIQC, two separate balls fell into the SIM card hole. However, neither one counted. I guess you can't collect SIM cards during that mode, unlike normal multiball.

Correct but the new code will change this

I think if the new code allows SIM pickups in CIQC mode, it will make Showdown much more attainable, and might even make leaving SIM memory off more appealing.

I generally keep all of my games at default settings but the Sim setting on this game had to be changed with the current rules. Loading up 4 or 5 SIM cards and losing all of them to a drain was probably just going to lead to me tossing this game out of a window.

Oh good.

Have most LE owners gotten a manual?

I dont think many have

Left ramp - loosen switch a bit and turn slightly towards from of game and retighten. See if it registers all the time. Might need a tweek or two to get it right.
Ball sim thing - Please go into Tests - Switches - Matrixed and throw a ball in, see if the right switch reports on the screen.
Ball stuck waiting for the train - 4 screws, remove top, figure out where it gets stuck and see if you can fix/bend/adjust something. Providing you aren't locking a ball in there.
STATIC - go to jerseyjackpinball.com and under Support open a ticket on the help desk or call during business hours and ask for Frank or Shannon and ask for a sound isolation transformer. Easy to install.

LTG : )

Good idea with foam, I'll try it. Stern puts strips of mylar on the edges of the lockdown which I thought was a great idea.

About the lockdown... Is it the two brass screws that you adjust? Do you lower or raise them? Guessing lower to get them tighter to the rails?

I'm having issues with my trap door closing when it should.I did grease the recommended parts,but I'm still having problems with the door closing.When I run a test on the device,it opens and closes like it should,but during the game,it stays open.
It also stays open at the end of the game,and is open at the start of a new game.
Not really sure if I should adjust any screws,since the door works,in the test mode?
Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing this problem?
Thanks in advance
Ralph
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Yep tighten to make lockbar more snug

I just got done installing a new center drone that was not spinning. Buttoned it all up and now the top(white) drone isn't spinning...pretty damn irritating! What the F@C# I have been waiting 5 weeks for this replacement.

Update on the trap door. After I greased the trap door,and moved the parts around a bit,the door worked a little better,but it was still hanging up.
The thing that did the trick,was playing about twenty games,on the newly greased trap door.
Now it's opening and closing like a champ! Every once in awhile,it stays open,into the next game.It's not enough to bother me,and now the game is playing much better.
I'd like to thank Lloyd,for taking the time to call me,and helping me out.
I love you man

I just got a Dialed In Standard. Out of the box I had to adjust the trap door like above, as it was staying open. I also had to fix the left ramp switch before the divertor, as it was not registering every time. Also adjusted the QED guy switch to make it more sensitive. And rotated the BOB sign to make it more visable to the player. Now the game is playing amazing.

I'm not normally a mod type of guy, but think the game could use a few LED/RGB mods to make it look like the LE. I'm considering the pop-bumper tower, to light up that back left corner. I def' want to do the LERmods backbox light. What mods are essential?

While you can adjust a few coils, there are still some changes I would like to make. Like being able to lower the kickback coil below 6. Amy hoot, like my TNA, I will be streaming this game often. I hope to capture both the phone and quantum theater for the stream. Come hang and get C R A Z Y!

http://twitch.tv/owlnonymous

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Enjoy! Great game!

This is me 100%. What did you do? I'll be working on it tomorrow.

Congrats on getting the game, it’s a lot of fun.

Does the acrylic in the back light up like it does on the LE? In the pic, it looks like it doesn’t. If not, a color changing strip would be ideal.

Just talked to Frank at Jersey Jack, mentioned that the manuals are going out in batches of 50. He also said that very few have gone out, as the printing company or person recently went on vacation for a couple of weeks.

I would highly recommend the translight illumination mod. Secondly, the mechanic sign, as it really helps light up the back of the playfield. Finally, the pop bumper building is nice, but better on the standard. On the LE, the building obstructs the lights on the ramp.

Owl,
Love your TNA streams, they've been awesome!

I have a DI Standard and added the Station 3 mod with new decals and lighting, the mechanic mod where lighting is added behind the sign, the BOB sign lighting mod, and powder coated armor (not the blue like the LE, but a dark purple, and also the pop bumper building mod. Those mods plus your backbox lighting mod should light the game up nicely.

I would like someday to get side blades, but no rush. My glass is super clear and I don't miss the left ramp lights, so I'm happy with it as-is.

Looking forward to the streams. Enjoy the game.

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LTG - have you heard of this one …

I installed the sound isolation transformer. The first time I boot the game after a night or so of being off, the bottom cabinet speaker thumps in time with the red LED in the center of the board in the back box. The other speakers are faint. If I reboot, it says switching to power saver mode on the screen for a second, finishes booting and is normal/great after that … until the next time I power it up for the first time. If I remove the sound isolation completely, it boots fine every time, but has the static. ??? I've just gotten use to booting it twice every time I play, but … is there a way to fix this one?

Try a different isolation transformer ? First I've heard of this.

LTG : )

It's pretty ridiculous that machines are still coming out of the factory with the trap door setup issue

It's been so random that I believe it is more a problem arising after shipping. And not that many of them either.

LTG : )

You guys find that this game had a lot of dirt/dust on it? I've put on about 700 games, but within the first couple of weeks, the factory white rubbers we're already black. Never seen anything like this oney other games.

I stripped most of the pf, cleaned/waxed, and replaced all rubbers with new Titans and will see how long it stays clean.

Just curious to hear from others about this.

It bc of all the metal guides /wireforms and magnet contact at the theater.

My DI runs fairly normal in terms of dirt/dust (when compared with my other games). My dirtiest pin is Tron...

snaroff

QED lighting bolts are upside down .

RJD devil horn DI mod.

I wipe them down with Nexus 1,and the black comes right off for me.Please send me the rubbers you just removed,I'll pay the shipping.