For me, four scenarios.
1) magnet grabs the ball and flings it up. Goes around to the upper right flipper 100% of the time
2) magnet grabs ball and drops it down. Goes to the end of the left flipper 100% of the time
3) No active magnet but I hit it strong enough to make it through the station. Either goes around to top right flipper or drops into pops
4) No active magnet and I don't hit it strong enough to make it through the station. 75% of the time SDTM.

I think that is how the game should be. As soon as I hit a weak shot up the middle, I know I'm going to get screwed (yeah I try to nudge some but I don't manhandle and on the rare occasions I save it I always get a warning)

Exactly what my machine does, it's at 6.5' setting.

From earlier in this thread...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dialed-in-owners-and-fans-club/page/40#post-4114953

snaroff

What does the magnet setting "hard" do? Fling balls across the room?

I set mine to medium and it's crazy.

Yep, I have 642 built January 10th of this year

The unbroken flap is longer and hard to reinsert the mech than the removal with the broken flap.

How..... am I just reading about this now ?!

It's not on your website. When's it available and how much?

Sorry, October build.

Been playing DI a lot on location lately. What a frikkin’ awesome game!! One of the few modern pins I’d consider buying. Pat Lawlor is the man!

Wow, did you make that?

I think I saw this (or something real similar) at the Cointaker booth at Allentown

Congrats on ordering a great game.

I would remove the mylar that covers the theater magnet and drone magnet. It's relatively easy to do it from under the playfield if you remove the magnet first then cut the mylar off using the hole as a guide.

Mezelmods.com has some good mods on their website.

Put new balls in the game that are highly polished to replace the originals.

Fiddle with the flipper power and pitch and theater magnet strength until you're happy with the shots.

I'm sure others will chime in with more...

No, I think laseriffic makes it. They have them in stock at Cointaker and maybe some other suppliers. https://cointaker.com/products/dialed-in-pinball-topper I would get one but its too rich for my blood @ $256 + shipping

These look cool! I have their powerbladez on my MET and they are awesome.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/dialed-in-pinball-powerbladez

Why do people keep ruining their machines with blades? They look horrible after a while and have you ever tried to remove them? Ruins the cabinet when you try to take them off. WORST non-reversible mod in the history of pinball.

Which blades have you been installing? I have had to remove a set of mirror blades and a set of vinyl, and neither were any sort of problem.

I’ve only experienced removal once. Was a god awful set of gold mirror blades glued in with god knows what. The cabinet was fugly as fuck cause the glue pulled bits of wood away. I touched it up with a black sharpie as a quick fix, but if you looked it was fugly. Only real fix would be to bondo, sand, paint. UGH

But I have seen plenty of examples of blades that look horrible because they’ve been scratched, dinged, crumpled by lifting and lowering the playfield. Sure they look nice when first installed, but it’s only downhill from there. WORST “mod” ever.

You can buff out scuffs and scratches in mirror blades. As long as you can't feel the scratch with your fingernail, you can buff them out.

I have cointaker blades on all my games and never had any issues with them and there has never been a game they haven't fit on and I've installed them on a lot of games. They are held in with two small screws so they come right out too.

They are terrible looking at the start too.

Just received my DILE (#797) yesterday. Only 2 issues to report (And we've seen these posted before): Bob's trap drop stuck in the up position and a loud hissing/static noise coming from speakers when game is idle (Starts on boot up). Also the wiring within the cab could have been better secured. While trying to lift the playfield, wiring in the back was snagged (Glad I didn't force it) and wiring in the front left side snagged on the pull up rails.
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I was thinking about the mode construction today and how good it is. It is so nicely balanced. The modes that are easier to complete, like EMP and Meteor, are nevertheless dangerous to play. And, the modes that are harder to complete and require more shots, especially of that right ramp which is the bane of my existence, are more safe.

I often try to start with EMP or Meteor just due to the fact that I can complete them and get the sim card shot lit. (EMP is so crazy though. While it is fairly simple to complete, the ball can literally be flung by the magnets anywhere, and you have to be on your toes.) Once I have Big Bang lit, I will try a harder mode. However, even then, hitting Big Bang can be risky, and I've had several times where I've rejoiced at hitting it only to have the ball shoot back down and drain before I can react.

Anyway, it is very well thought out and enormously fun.

I disagree. I think art blades or mirrors look much better than plain black paint

Thank you. I appreciate it

Once you remove the mylar,you should clean the sticky glue that's left on the magnet with some alcohol.

That all depends on who made them and what kind of Adhesive they were made with. Try a set of PinGraffix Blades and you will see that all Blades are not created equally.

Thanks! so glad you love them.. The Dialed in Ones are going to be just as loveable.. except for WackyBrakke it appears..

I guess I’m in the minority on this blades thing.....but that’s ok. I’ll keep my sides pristine while y’all ruin yours. Just don’t be surprised if I pass on buying your machine cause it has em.

That's cool! To each is own. Enjoy pinball mostly.

On both my WOZ and DI, I can’t lift the playfield without scratching against the sides, and that’s without blades. I don’t know how people with blades do it.

That's one of the reasons stopping me from getting a set. The other reason is,if my game hit me with any more light from the mirror blades,I think I would pass out,during some stages in the game.

If you are thinking about any kind of blades..As a general rule of them.. you should allow up to an 1/8th of an inch between the playfield and the inner cabinet wall.
When it comes to vinyl...check out what kind adhesive is used.. I have seen some Blades that the glue is so strong..as WackyBrakke mentioned earlier..it actually removes not just the paint but actual little pieces of wood.

COOL FACTOID: AFMR cabs were renengineered so that they could accomadate Blades.

Another thing you want to check is to make sure you cabinet is pefectly level.

Then again .. I have also seen blades that have a hard time sticking to the cabinet walls too.

Joe's DI Pinblades (new version) are going in my DILE, as soon as they arrive

Which ones is that?

https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/dialed-in-pinblades-for-jersey-jack-pinball

Pinball life sells some plastic side blade and side rail protectors to use while working on the pin. I bought a set, a little bit awkward to use, but do the job and slip right back out. Just an FYI for those interested.

I have Cointaker’s mirror blades on my most of my Pins. I believe it’s just a couple of screws that hold them in place. Not sure these could make a mess on the side of the cabinet. There is no glue or residue involved.
I’ve also had them installed on a number of my pins for years and the blades rarely seem to scratch all that much.
I think they add a nice enhancement to the overall look of the pf; including my DILE, but like any mod it just comes down to personal taste. Different strokes for different folks and all.

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Glad there are a few folks who understand what I am talking about

Just use blades without adhesive. No issues whatsoever.

Be great if they could make blades that just hung in the glass rail in a few spots and can be removed to raise playfeild.

1 day to infinity. I just call.

Am I right in my assumption that overcharging the phone increases the point value of the mode shots?

Yep it seems like each extra hit will raise the battery by 10% and the points will be raised accordingly. So if your phone battery is 150% the points should be 1.5x the normal value.

But when you drain (before starting a mode) it will reset to 100% although I'm not sure if there is a setting to keep that value.

Makes a nice risk vs reward aspect to the game. That can be pretty significant if especially if you have some SIM cards. But hitting the QED guy over and over can also be a bit dangerous.

Both of my issues have been fixed. Bob's trap door fixed with some targeted silicon stray (metal on metal pieces). ...and below is the response from the tech on the speaker noise issue...

"Installing a noise filter (ground loop isolator) in Dialed In! requires removing the backglass and then unlatching the monitor on both sides and pulling it forward and swinging it out to one side or the other so that you can get to the board case in the top half of the backbox. There is an LED strip affixed to the front metal cover of the box that holds, among other things, the motherboard and soundboard. There is one 2-pin connector to the left side of the box for this LED strip and it is a good idea to unplug this so that you can more easily unscrew and remove the cover and place it off to the side of the machine temporarily. The sound board is the smaller rectangular board directly in the center of the case. There is a pink female jack on the top right corner with a male mic-style cable plugged into it (I will attach a picture to this email). That pink jack is the input for the sound board and the male cable is the sound output from the motherboard. All you have to do is unplug the cable going into the pink jack and plug it into the female jack on the isolator body, then plug the male cable coming from the isolator body into the pink jack. That allows the filter to try to remove any excess static or surface noise from the audio before it reaches the amplifier on the sound board. It's that simple, and the only thing remaining is to find a place to either tie-wrap or double stick tape up the isolator body so that it doesn't interfere with anything like fans, etc. The isolator body is light so weight isn't really an issue but it's best if it isn't left hanging freely. Find a spot to secure it and that's it. See attached picture of the pink sound board jack."

Although the green 3.5mm jack at the bottom of the motherboard works as well (same cable, just other end).
I bought this and works very well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI

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Never had this happen before. The ball got stuck somehow behind the phone and I had to take off the playglass to get to it. Hope that doesnt happen again.